Originally reviewed: Aug 12 06
In the bottle: Wow, it's an olfactory cacophony - talk about a mish-mash of notes! I think I'm getting...tea? Definitely something sweet or fruity, maybe a touch of ginger?
On wet: Pretty much the same impression as above - like a bunch of crazy notes are battling it out on my skin. Kinda smells...strange. That initial hint of tea is gone (maybe it never existed), and now I'm mostly getting what I think is ginger and something sweet.
Drydown: Spicy sweetness, now underscored by a drier, peppery smokiness similar to something that I smelled in Laudanum - maybe the nutmeg? I think the tea might be back, too, though it's so soft I could be imagining it...again.
Overall: Started out as something appropriately chaotic, and dried down into this spicy, somewhat smoky, strangely sweet scent that I would definitely classify as an upscale Oriental blend. It's a wonderfully warm skin scent for the colder months, and a beautiful and unique addition to my collection.
In the imp: Cherry and lavender.
On wet: Cherry, lavender, and I'm pretty sure that the smoothness underneath the two of 'em is the white musk.
Drydown: The cherry faded almost immediately, leaving the barest hint of lavender wafting up from my skin. If I mash my nose against my wrist, I can smell the soft sweetness of the white musk.
Overall: I failed to detect any trace of rosewood, red musk, or red rose in KoH - and to be completely honest, I rather liked it that way! The white musk's powdery softness proved the perfect grounding for the sharpness of the lavender, pinning both notes firmly in place against my skin, where they lingered quite happily for several hours. A lovely blend! 4/5
In the imp: Mint...coconut...and an almost bitter lime scent.
On wet: The mint and lime are doing a funky tango on a dance floor made of coconut!
Drydown: Those initial three notes are still what I'm smelling, though the coconut's become a bolder presence, working with the equally smooth mint to tame that brash splurt of limey goodness.
Overall: The combination of notes works incredibly well in this blend - especially once the drydown mellows them out a bit. And you wanna talk about morphing ability? When the coconut and mint take center stage, it's as if I've dipped my arm into a vat of some deliciously creamy confection - a minute later, it's the fresh green zing of minty limes assaulting my nostrils, forcing eyes gone dreamy to open, focus, and remain alert - a minute after that, I've been transported to a sugar-white beach, where coconut-lime cocktails are delivered to my chaise by sun-browned, half-nekkid serving men who regard me with warm eyes and eager-to-please smiles...
::pauses to daydream about such a place for a few moments...::
::reluctantly returns to reality to complete her review::
In a nutshell, I absolutely *adore* each of the three main notes on their own, so it's no surprise that I'm loving 'em mixed all together. A delighted 4.5/5.
In the imp: A soft, vaguely sweet smell - for some reason, Dove soap immediately springs to mind.
On wet: This has got to be, without doubt, one of the faintest BPAL blends I've ever tried. I can barely smell *anything* after immediate application, and I all but slathered it. The barely-there whiffs I *am* getting are still soft, lightly sweet, and soapy.
Drydown: Still incredibly faint - to the point where I actually had to sniff around my wrist to find where I'd applied it. Still primarily soap, too (though I'm pretty sure I caught a ghostly whisper of something that *could* have been ginger at one point) and not much else.
Overall: This was one of the first frimps I ever received. I tried it as soon as I got it, discovered how weak it was with my skin chemistry, and promptly put it in the 'Try Again' pile. Since then - almost a year ago - I've broken it out a few more times, hoping that it would have aged into something more intense, or that my nose, being fed a steady diet of BPAL, would've somehow become more aware of it. Alas, this fantasy I've so desperately clung to has not come to pass. Sudha's just as Dove soap for me now as it was that first time I sniffed it...and that makes me a sad panda.
A (very reluctant!) 2/5.
In the bottle: Mmm...smells like powdery, peppery cherries! I'm instantly reminded of Black Phoenix.
On wet: CHERRIES on STEROIDS! And then...*poof*...they're gone. All I'm smelling now is this gorgeous underbite of black peppery-ness.
Drydown: Still getting that amazing peppery scent (ginger? peppercorn?) with just a hint of sweetness playing underneath. It's an absolutely incredible smell.
Overall: ::swoons:: Mmmm...this blend is like spicy sex in a bottle. I'm thrilled to have something so deliciously unique, and *beyond* delighted by my very first "perfect for me" CT. Thanks to Beth for creating such an exciting fragrance, and for the agents of Chaos that sent it my way!
In the bottle: Sweet n' perfumey. Kinda reminds me of a really high-end shampoo.
On wet: Wow, forget shampoo - we're talking upscale perfume here. It's so intense I'm having a hard time picking out familiar notes. It's not foody or watery, amberish or incensey, roses or citrus or tea or ozone...
Drydown: After a few minutes, this totally calms down. It's still *very* perfumey and hard to dissect component-wise, but I'm REALLY enjoying it! It's kind of like a spicy, creamy floral with a shot of fruity sweetness added for good measure. I can only guess at what might be in it: carnation and/or spices, jasmine and/or ylang ylang, possibly bergamot... *is stumped*
Overall: This, my fourth and final bottle of CT, is just lovely. In fact, ALL of my CTs have been wonderful! It *is* a touch heavier than I usually like, but as an evening out/cold weather scent, I think it'll be perfect.
What a great experience CT has been! I hope the Lab continues this tradition, 'cause I'm already excited for the next round!
In the bottle: Slushy mint.
On wet: Gorgeous and grassy - like snow melting in a garden full of wild mint.
Drydown: The lovely slush-touched greenery is joined by a light, almost perfumey sweetness - a combination that makes for a fresh, incredibly unique, and downright elegant fragrance.
Overall: Even though I get a little sad when the grassy note fades to make room for that drydown-sweetness, this remains one of my favourite "cold" scents, and easily one of my favourite concept blends. 4.5/5
In the bottle: Why am I smelling...butter?
On wet: I'm getting whiffs of buttered corn mixed with a high-pitched floral of some kind. So far this is not at all what I was expecting - it's actually kind of scary.
Drydown: Oh...oh yes...*this* is more like it - the good Doctor's finally decided to leave his popcorn-shilling ways behind him! The scent rising from my wrist is now deep and smooth and wonderful. The darkly sweet, almost fruity mix of tonka, sandalwood, and champaca flower dominates, followed by hints of smoke-laced ginger and the occasional whisper of a dry, almost woody peppery-ness. Delicious!
Overall: Even though I was put off by the buttery popcorn + bathroom-florals-from-hell stage, and wish this was a *tad* smokier, DJS is still an incredibly beautiful blend. The drydown alone rates an easy 4/5.
In the bottle: Mmm...fresh, floral, and lovely - like rain-spattered lilacs and lilies. I can smell the sharp green sweetness of the white sandalwood, too.
On wet: Bright, sweet florals - still primarily lilacs and lilies. The sandalwood remains sharp and almost bitter against the softness of the flowers.
Drydown: Floral jumble! The scent I'm getting now is sweet, perfume-y, and expensive-smelling - a showy mix of elegant blooms, underscored by a watery green freshness that I continue to attribute to the sandalwood and now the musk. The musk is light and bright and sparkly.
Overall: This is an extremely pretty blend for a floral fan, and definitely feels reminiscent of both Urania and Stardust. As I tend to favour warmer, spicier, less "fresh" fragrances, I don't think WM will get much wear from me. Even still, a very nice composition. 3/5
In the imp: Paint (I get that a lot, for some reason ) and the faintest hint of something sour.
On wet: The sourness is more pronounced, though there's a hint of almost herbal sweetness underneath. I'm not getting any note specifically at this point.
Drydown: I smell sandalwood first. Oh, and there's the ylang - I'm becoming more appreciative of ylang ylang, so I'm glad it's a somewhat dominant presence in this blend so far. When I inhale deeply, I get a dry, almost dusty sweetness that reminds me of that orange sugar powder you'd get in in a Fun Dip (or Lik-m-aid, or whatever those things were called). A very interesting, yet pleasing combination!
Overall: This scent worried me at first - it was coming across as "generic-bought from a drugstore-old lady perfume". Now? ::sniffs wrist:: I smell like candied oranges! The sandalwood and ylang are still in the picture, too, keeping things from getting too saccharine, and really making for a nicely balanced group of notes. A very happy fragrance. 3.5/5
In the imp: Sweet, sugary rose.
On wet: Sweet, sweet, *sweet* rose and an almost dirty patchouli - oh, did I mention that this is SWEET?
Drydown: Absolutely. Gorgeous. The diabetes-inducing sweetness from moments before has deepened under the grounding influence of the sandalwood and patchouli (not certain what the palmarosa smells like, so no clue where it fits into the equation). It's gone from overpowering sugared rose to this sultry, slinky, exotic, lickable SEX CANDY kind of scent. Excuse me while I continue to swoon...
Overall: Aside from the occasional dab of Rose Red, I don't care for rose scents - or at least that's what I thought. Wanton not only changed my mind, it seduced the anti-rose right outta me and made me her bitch. Big bottle purchase - stat. 4.5/5
In the bottle: Cocoa, vanilla, lavender - yum!
On wet: Mmm...the same as above. The lavender is really singing, too - such an amazing melange of notes.
Drydown: A complex jumble of subdued deliciousness that is SO incredible. It's saved from the 'too foody' category thanks to the fresh zip of lavender and the rounder sweetness I'm attributing to the starfruit. As the day progresses, the scent smooths out like a river of warm, creamy goodness - less lavender, a more pronounced vanilla/sandalwood presence. And YES! This is definitely reminiscent of Underpants.
Overall: I was another who couldn't wear the previous 13, so this reformulation was such a welcome surprise! Not only do I LOVE this new interpretation, there wasn't a single aspect or stage of this scent that I didn't enjoy. A most certainly well-deserved 5/5.
This will likely smell amazing on the right guy, too. Not too sweet, not too feminine, that smidge of lavender that is so often found in cologne = 100% edible manflesh!
In the imp: Sweet cherry cough syrup.
On wet: Mmm...cherry-almond-marzipan goodness. Uber sweet, but very yummy.
Drydown: The cherry is long gone. A musky, slinky-sweet, somewhat dusty/ powdery floral is what I'm getting now - that is, until the strawberry rears its massive fruity head. Wow, not only did it just appear outta nowhere, it's surprisingly strong, too. Hmm...unlike other Lab strawberry scents, this berry blend doesn't smell fake on me. It smells darker and richer than it should - almost plum-like - making me wonder if the cherry's really gone after all...
Overall: I don't care for strawberry scents. Amber is not my friend. Red musk is hit or miss with my skin chemistry. Guess it just goes to show you how the right balance of notes can work miracles - I'm finding HB not only wearable, but deliciously sexy to boot! Not certain it'll rank big bottle-love (not yet, anyway), but I'll definitely be using my imp. A surprising, but well-deserved 3.5/5.
In the imp: Something sharp and fresh - I'm thinking it's the bergamot and juniper.
On wet: That same bergamot-juniper freshness, and a strangely overwhelming powderiness that I'm attributing to the orchid.
Drydown: Spicy, somewhat powdery, slightly sweet. It's driving me crazy at this point, actually, because it reminds me of something I've smelled before, but I can't remember what! (Don't you hate it when that happens?) There *is* a faint soapy element underneath the other notes, but it has an airy-clean quality to it, rather than an unpleasant cleanser/detergent vibe.
Overall: An interesting blend. I love white musk, so I was a little disappointed that it wasn't a stronger presence in this fragrance. This scent's not exactly 'me', but I think it may be gender neutral enough to pique the hubby's interest. Against my skin, however, it rates a 2.5/5.
In the imp: A clean citrus-tea scent. Slightly sweet, slightly floral, slighty aquatic.
On wet: Bathroom air freshener.
Drydown: Sweet, sweet floral. Faint citrus. A sharpness reminiscent of ozone - perhaps the bamboo? (I'm discovering that I'm not a fan of bamboo in certain blends.) The sandalwood's underneath everything, lending an almost incensey quality to the overall experience. Still reminds me of something you'd use to clean a public restroom, though.
Overall: I heartily agree with some of the previous reviewers who mention similarities between this scent and Neo-Tokyo. Unsurprisingly, since I absolutely LOATHED Neo-Tokyo (it was the very first scent I needed to wash off immediately), I'm not exactly loving this one, either. A shame, really - I haven't been able to pull off any blends with dragon's blood so far, and this one - with all its exotic ingredients - had me hopeful.
In the imp: An almost watery, sweet-tart freshness.
On wet: Clean and vaguely lemongrass-y.
Drydown: Fresh, clean, and faintly citrus. There's a green edge happening, too - something almost minty or grassy. Very pretty.
Overall: Not a fan of the bamboo element (I did detect a VERY brief, polluting whiff of it during the wet stage), but this is such a fresh, clean fragrance otherwise, that I can hardly complain. I almost wish I'd sprung for a full bottle rather than a decant - this would be lovely addition to unscented bath products! 3.5/5
In the bottle: A sweet hint of pear, something a little perfumey (jasmine?), and the faintest touch of dustiness I always seem to get from orchid notes.
On wet: Peaceful, soft, watery - a lovely, mild scent so far.
Drydown: Still soft and sweet, but with a more pronounced perfumey edge. I'm able to smell the fruit (or perhaps it's the lotus?), what I'm thinking is the mottia attar, and the crystal musk underneath. No distinct hint of cucumber (though I believe it's contributing to that watery vibe), the orchid is either gone or smothered under the other florals, and I'm not familiar enough with the other listed notes to be able to pick them out specifically.
Overall: When I closed my eyes to dissect this blend, I was immediately assaulted by some of the most vivid images any BPAL blend has evoked to date:
An ornate outdoor bathing grotto filled with cool water, generous handfuls of fragrant, exotic flower petals floating on its surface, a mild breeze - faintly scented with the sweetness of recent rain and growing things - raising gooseflesh when it brushes up against naked skin, a blue-black sky overhead. I can envision a fey queen or nature-loving goddess bathing here, floating on her back, eyes closed, long hair fanning out behind her, soothed by her surroundings, completely at peace...
I honestly didn't think I'd like this scent - too many floral notes, too much potential for aquatic mayhem (I can't seem to pull off watery schtuff), and while pear/cucumber-type scents are pleasing, I don't often find myself reaching for them - not with so many spicy/creamy/sexy combinations available. Now that I've actually *tried* it, though (instead of just sniffing the bottle's contents, promising to try it soon, then passing it over in favour of something else), I can't believe how incredibly pretty it is. Pretty AND wearable! It's got this softness to it that sort of mutes all the potentially louder components - almost as if each note went blurry at the edges and was bleeding into one another - like a watercolour painting.
An evening, special occasion, or spring/early summer fragrance (for me, anyway), and an impressive 4.5/5. Gorgeous.
In the bottle: Clean, fresh, grassy...with just a *hint* of something sweet-tart underneath.
On wet: Pale, pale green aquatic, with the vaguest touch of watery fruit around the edges.
Drydown: Mmm...the sharp aquatic-ness has died away. Now it's insanely fresh smelling - like a garden, comprised of nothing but carnation and big, green, leafy plants, all dappled with cool water after a good rain. The heather is sweet, the carnation is lightly spiced cream, the green things stay green - really, really lovely.
Overall: I had to have this scent purely because of the poem - it's been a favourite of mine since childhood. I was incredibly fortunate that none of the notes were dealbreakers (though moss and ivy *can* be troublesome), and doubly lucky that they all decided to play nice on my skin - I would have been heartbroken if this hadn't worked. But here I am, smelling deliciously fresh and spicy and green all at the same time, anxiously waiting for warmer weather to arrive, as this is definitely going to be one of my go-to spring scents. A delightful blend - 4.5/5.
In the imp: Sweet candy, lemon, and coconut - yum!
On wet: Lime and coconut, a titch of floral goodness - mostly the iris, which I love.
Drydown: The lemongrass has emerged. It's very distinct from the lime (which is still very present), and they're both sitting on top of the iris and coconut. There's something dusty or powdery hanging around, too - I'm thinking it's one of the florals I'm not very familiar with (snowdrop, wisteria), possibly the amber, which doesn't tend to like me. I don't normally care for even the slightess bit of dust/powder, but it doesn't seem to last very long, and all the other notes are pleasantly distracting.
Overall: Definitely a wild - but lovely - scent! It's bright and warm, sweet and sharp, saved from being too fruity or foody because of the florals, and not too floral thanks to the coconut and citrus! A gorgeous summer or party blend, suitable for a wide range of ages, too. I feel like I'm wearing a rainbow on my wrist! 4.5/5
edit: Needed to upgrade my overall score from 3.5 to 4.5 - I haven't been able to stop sniffing myself all day! I smell freaking *awesome* - like lemon-lime, sweet-tart, glittery coconut musk. LOVE!
In the imp: Buttery cake note (similar to Eat Me), and a touch of grapefruit.
On wet: Sweet, tangy grapefruit and...is that what guava smells like? Yum!
Drydown: If pink and yellow were scents, that's what I'd be smelling right now. Cherry blossom's edged out the fruit and taken over as the big star, all soft and pink and sweet like sugar water. There's a touch of something on the sidelines, though - just the barest hint of what I'm thinking is the grapefruit. It's muted - more like what I'd imagine the pith to smell like - less intense, softer, but retaining that grapefruity sharpness/bitterness.
Overall: Definitely a fun, girly scent that could be worn for any occasion. The original cake vibe never manifested on me (thankfully!), so a straight-up blend of sunny pinkness (sweet fruit and even sweeter cherry blossom) was what wafted around me most of the afternoon. Delightful! 4/5
In the bottle: Sweet, fresh, water-dappled NECTARINES!
On wet: Ohhh...so good. *huffs wrist* Nectarine, oakmoss, skin musk - each note is coming through loud and clear - and they're *wonderful*!
Drydown: Wow, this is fantastic stuff. Such a clean, fresh scent - like fruit juice -infused raindrops. And the musk is so unobtrusive, clinging to my skin, letting that wonderful fruit-water take center stage like a hovering cloud of pure deliciousness. Long-lasting and nothing but gorgeous.
Overall: I've been searching for a really good nectarine blend, but they're few and far between - most are too perfumey, or the other notes smother the delicate fruity goodness. Ebisu is what I've been looking for, and it's also one of the most *perfect* summer scents I've ever come across, too. Lightly sweet, SO incredibly fresh, both airy *and* watery, and just enough musk to ground everything. Perfection. 5/5
I likewise got this as a frimp from the lovely shelldoo!
In the imp: almost identical to my much beloved Bunny Musk - sweet, clean, and slightly powdery.
On Wet: Mmmm...so delicious - like I've dabbed my wrist with liquid candy. Again, incredibly similar to EBM (the same base, I think), but with an extra dash of powderiness. I'm not detecting anything overtly lemony, but there is a light citrus vibe going on.
Drydown: Still clean, sweet, and pleasantly powdery. There's a hint of that same light spice that I get from EBM. This lasts for ages, too, and the throw is perfect - just enough for me to catch a whiff every once and a while, reminding me of how fantastic I smell.
Overall: I'm a huge Bunny Musk fan, so I'm not surprised by how much I'm enjoying this scent. It's fresh and feminine, sweet and sunny - it's absolutely lovely. I think I prefer my gorgeous bunny blend more, but only by a...hare? (Hardy-Har-Har!!! ) An easy 4.5/5.
In the imp: Minty Mint and sweet violets...
On wet: Oooh...herbalicious! What a lovely blast of minty eucalyptus freshness! It's great, and slightly tempered with an underlying sweetness - not overpowering at all.
Drydown: Mmm...mint - it's almost vanillic, thanks to the violets. This has totally softened, sweetened, and deepened into such a pretty scent - and it's weird, but I'm almost getting a whiff of something...coconutty? Whatever it is, it smells *fantastic*! The eucalyptus is still lingering by way of a slightly dusty herbal edge - it's pleasant, almost tea-like - that I can pick up on if I really sniff around for it. I can't detect any neroli.
Overall: I really like violets, and I quite like mint, too - combined, however, I thought they'd smell quite...icky. This blend - which ends up incredibly soft and delicate - has *totally* surprised me! It started off as cool and bracing, then mellowed into this almost creamy sweetness that is just SO gorgeous - I can't stop sniffing myself. I'm reminded of a lighter, cleaner version of Snow-Flakes - Snow-Flakes falling on pale, pale violets. This is a wonderful scent, and one I'd consider upgrading to a bottle! 4.5/5
In the imp: Almond and a touch of sweet, almost effervescent citrus.
On wet: Pure citrus - sweet, lemony, sort of powdery, too. Very bright and candylike!
Drydown: The citrus has faded almost completely, and all I'm left with is a touch of thyme.
Overall: This blend started out quite nicely - I'm a fan of citrus, almond, and various herbs - but it faded within minutes! And I didn't get anything beyond lemon and thyme - no lavender, mint, or even the usually dominant almond. So, yeah...a bit of a disappointment. 2/5
In the imp: Intense melon - like a honeydew, cantaloupe, and watermelon salad!
On wet: Sweet, melon-y, something that I *think* is grape, but I can't be sure...
Drydown: Pure fruity candy! The kind that's all innocent sugar on your tongue...just before it gives you that full-mouth-pucker-blast of surprise sourness. There's definitely a swipe of tartness buried under all that bright melon, and a slight floral softness, too. Makes for an interesting mix, if a tad too sweet for me.
Overall: A very youthful, fun scent - perfect for warm, sunny days. I'm not much of a fruit-fan - at least not the uber sweet, somewhat girly variety - so this isn't quite right for me. My sisters, on the other hand - sugary and melony scent devotees - will likely adore it. 3/5
