In the imp: Sweet powder and myrrh.
On wet: Sweet powder and myrrh - maybe a touch of wood.
Drydown: Leather and woodsmoke for a good while, then...smoked powder. Bleh. The red musk never showed, either.
Overall: Evil powder scent = not for me. Amber never fails to disappoint on my skin, and myrrh's becoming more and more troublesome for some reason. This blend pulls a 2/5, thanks to my wannabe Dominatrix chemistry.
In the imp: Sweet - almost creamy - wood. How odd!
On wet: Nothing beyond an indistinct, vaguely perfumey sweetness - weirder and weirder...
Drydown: Okay, I'm getting red musk, the richness of the vanilla - perhaps even a bit of the magnolia, which often registers as a creamy, vanillic floral my nose - and a hint (and I mean *hint*) of clove adding a touch of spiced heat to mix. Not sure if it's the mimosa or the iris (which I usually love), but something in here is *incredibly* sweet - like, painfully so. It seems to burn off a bit after a while, but wow, is it ever potent! When my wrist is safe to smell again, I'm left with clove-studded, vanilla-tinged, still-fairly-sweet red musk. It's really quite sexy! (The rose never made an appearance, in case you were wondering.)
Overall: Clove rarely plays nice on my skin, so it was kinda surprising to find it behaving in this blend. I'm thinking that it was the mimosa that went uber saccharine (I had a similar reaction to the mimosa-laced Marianne), so I'll likely be avoiding (or at least wary of) scents that contain it in the future. If it wasn't for the sweetness, I'd likely be going for a bottle of this one with the next update (I don't have anything with clove in it, so it'd be nice to finally get something that does), but as it stands now, I'm going to stick with my decant a bit longer, test it again, and see if it improves or my chemistry is more welcoming over the next couple of weeks. Currently, a 3.5/5.
MCLXXI - 1171
In the bottle: Caramel or dark sugar, something fruity and fresh.
On wet: Almost instantly, that drizzle of sugary caramel gives way to...uh, herbal bubblegum?? I *think* that's what I'm smelling, but damn, is it ever sharp and weird. And now it's going kinda chemical, like...burning bleach.
Drydown: I still don't know what I'm smelling, but thankfully there's some light caramel-fruit sweetness returning to the forefront. I'm still picking up on what I can only describe as bubblebum, but it's now a supporting note in this strange blend, and no longer horribly offensive. The longer it dries, the more intense the sweet, candied fruit becomes - I'm thinking it might be red plum.
Overall: Out of the 8 CTs that've come my way (4 this round, 4 last), this is the first and only bottle that I really, *really* didn't like. I even had a no-swap policy in place specifically for any CT purchases 'cause they were all unique and made for me, right? But in this case, I think I'll have to bend the rules a bit. This odd duck (odd with my chemistry, at any rate) will almost certainly never see the light of day, and that's no life for *any* BPAL fragrance. I'll have to find it a new home.
In the bottle: Mmm...sweet n' lightly creamy. The colour "pink" instantly popped into my head while I sniffed this - that, and thought that this would be the *best* bubble bath/bath oil scent evah!
On wet: Sweeet! Powdery! Candy-like! YUM!
Drydown: Still mostly sweet, candy-licious powder, though I'm detecting something almost spicy underneath - peppery carnations finally making an appearance, if I'm not mistaken. Then there's the honey and frankincense adding this insanely edible, golden depth to balance out the sugary, milky florals - SOOOO GOOOOD! Freaking *gorgeous* stuff, seriously.
Overall: Honestly, I wasn't expecting much from this blend - I mean, honeyed milk and baby powder? For reals? - but I figured I'd give it a try since I love carnations and creamy florals like Alice. Am I ever glad I did! This is absolutely WONDERFUL - easily my favourite baby blend of the bunch. Well done, Beth!! 5/5
In the imp: Something fruity sweet, a smidge of mint, and watery pine.
On wet: Sweet pine and frosty mint!
Drydown: It's gone totally floral with a musk base. The moonflower is prominent, along with something high-pitched and creamy sweet - I'm thinking it's the cereus (which I have no experience with *at all*), though if I had to guess, I'd have said it was jasmine. The blue musk is sparkly and effervescent. The mint and frost/pine notes are MIA, and I haven't sniffed any thyme yet, either.
Overall: Classy and floral-sweet, very upscale and pretty. It's not a scent I see myself reaching for very often, but if I had somewhere elegant to go - a wedding, a fancy evening out with my husband, the theatre, etc. - LNM would be a great choice. Lovely! 3/5
In the imp: An almost golden-sweet vanilla. Something bright and a little sharp, too - like a high-end, citrussy hairspray.
On wet: Sweet creaminess. Jasmine. The nailpolish-remover scent of champaca. Oooh...but here comes the sandalwood, already starting to ground everything. Very, very nice.
Drydown: Complex and lovely. The vanilla and sandalwood make for a wonderfully sweet-yet-stable base - creamy, warm, and golden. The champaca - a note that never fails to hate me regardless of how many times I try it out - has finally decided to pull back and play nice, making friends with the jasmine, tag-teaming to become this general haze of pretty floral-ness. I can smell an undercurrent of spicy smokiness, too - opium and ginger making the scene at last. There's the leather - it's slightly sour against the other notes.
Roses, lily, hay, tobacco...I'm sure they're all in there too, but I can't pick them out specifically - that's how busy and well-blended this scent is.
Overall: I'm really enjoying this! It's an almost syrupy sweet floral, saved from being too heady or too generic or too frou-frou (ie. only to be worn to expensive restaurants or similarly classy engagements) by that deliciously smoky, lightly spiced, golden cream combo of the vanilla-sandalwood-opium-ginger (and possibly tobacco). It *did* start off a bit...louder...than I usually like, but within 5-10 minutes, it settled down into the gorgeous, darkly playful skin-scent I'm getting - and can't stop sniffing! - now. A unique composition (to my nose, at any rate), one that might need to be upgraded to a bottle in the near future. 4/5
In the imp: An almost effervescent - yet resiny - pine!
On wet: Sweet pine at first, but then the scent begins to deepen and grow more complex within seconds. Patchouli and musk come to the forefront next...
Drydown: Sweetness from the skin musk, vanilla, and honey (perhaps the Indian resins, too), smokiness from the tobacco, an earthy swirl from the patchouli, and that almost jarring green sap vibe from the pine pitch. Every note is apparent, but the overall scent I'm getting is sweet, rich, slightly dirty musk with a juniper garnish. Colour impressions: shimmering gold with a bold streak of silvery-sage green through the center.
Overall: This might be a touch overwhelming on me. Maybe if the pine was a smidge less glaring, or the musk not quite so sweet, I could see this being perfection on my skin. As it stands now, I'm willing to let it age, see if it calms down a bit before making any rash decisions. It really is a *lovely* fragrance wafting from me at present, here's hoping it just gets better with a little time! A (temporary?) 3/5.
In the imp: Uber leathery - that cherry-vanilla leather that I get from Quincey Morris. A touch of Snake Oil underneath.
On wet: Oooh - sweeeet Snake Oil! Extra sweet! Absolutely delicious.
Drydown: Back to mostly leather. It's sweet, though, and both the sandalwood and Snake Oil are apparent - not sure where the sage is, it's usually not very friendly with my chemistry. There's an almost smoky quality to this now, and it's *really* yummy. If the sage stays missing or quiet (whatever it's doing), I'll be extremely happy.
Overall: Lovely. This is dark and sweet and lightly smoked - it's also quite addictive. I can't stop sniffing myself! Totally brings to mind being pinned against the wall of some dark club by a pair of very masculine, leather-clad arms. ::fans self:: Oooh, yeah - I'm thinking I might need a bottle of this one. Freakin' HAWT! 4.5/5
In the imp: Sweet, sugary rose.
On wet: Sweet, sweet, *sweet* rose and an almost dirty patchouli - oh, did I mention that this is SWEET?
Drydown: Absolutely. Gorgeous. The diabetes-inducing sweetness from moments before has deepened under the grounding influence of the sandalwood and patchouli (not certain what the palmarosa smells like, so no clue where it fits into the equation). It's gone from overpowering sugared rose to this sultry, slinky, exotic, lickable SEX CANDY kind of scent. Excuse me while I continue to swoon...
Overall: Aside from the occasional dab of Rose Red, I don't care for rose scents - or at least that's what I thought. Wanton not only changed my mind, it seduced the anti-rose right outta me and made me her bitch. Big bottle purchase - stat. 4.5/5
In the imp: Mmm...smells very similar to Mme. Moriarty! Sweet and musky and fruity.
On wet: A much higher-pitched sweetness than Moriarty - due to a lotus-y culprit, methinks.
Drydown: Sweet-sweet-sweeeeet! And kinda perfumey, too. The musky, fruity aspects of the blend are great - and even the usually-awful-orchid is behaving - but this uber sweetness (lotus *and* mimosa? Not familiar with the latter to know) just isn't working for me.
Overall: With only a scant few exceptions, BPAL's mega sweet stuff doesn't seem to jive with my chemistry, my nose, or my health (headaches! tummy aches! toothaches - seriously!). Marianne isn't making me queasy, thankfully, but I think wearing it in full force for most of the day, rather than just the wee test spot I've got going on right now, definitely would - it's just that heady and sweet. For anyone who wanted a kick of candy in their Moriarty, this scent's for you! 3/5
I'm not much of a blogger - my barren LJ and Blurty accounts are proof of that. But I'm always on the forum whenever I get a free moment, so perhaps a blogspot *here* will actually get some attention.
So, yeah.
Yay forum blog!
In the imp: Green sourness and white rose.
On wet: Herbal powder, something warm, and a twinge of sourness underneath it all.
Drydown: Very soapy powder on me - like a cross between some kind of amber and orchid (ick!). The white rose is especially bad (it *never* works on me, no matter how many chances I give it) - I think it's joined forces with whatever's powdery in an attempt to kill me. Perhaps that's the Reaper aspect of this blend? What's sad is that I can detect the *barest* hint of peppered cream from the carnation (perhaps some cool creaminess from the lily, too?) - if only I could get *that* smell as the primary aspect of this blend...
Overall: Powdered soap. Something sour. Evil white rose. Not enough yummy carnation. Sadness. 1/5
In the imp: An almost candy-like sweetness and tea.
On wet: Fresh, sweet, faintly...lemon and/or anise-y?
Drydown: Wow, I can't get over how much muted lemon (pith?) I'm getting from this! I know tea can have a citrus-y vibe, but this goes far beyond a mere "vibe", my friend. The sweetness present is of the lighter, cooler variety - like white sugar that's been heated into a syrup and then chilled. It's pretty intense. The tea lives underneath that sugar-glazed lemon. It's a weak brew, but distinct when I press my nose against my skin. Not 100% sure what wasabi as a scent component should smell like, but I *am* picking up on a touch of heat where I applied the oil - it's making my skin tingle! No pain, no redness, nothing unpleasant - more like my wrist has been in the sun for a while.
Overall: Interesting blend - wearable, pretty, simple and complex at the same time - but, ultimately, not for me. I have Dorian and Severin to see to all my tea-scent needs. If sugared tea (with a wasabi-tingle!) is *your* thing, though, you will absolutely love this. 3.5/5
Originally reviewed: Jan 09 06
In the Imp: Almonds or cherries.
On Wet: Almonds or cherries - supersized!
Drydown: Woo-woo! Sweet, soapy, spicy, vaguely peppery - a complex and potentially addictive scent. It actually reminds me of how Thrills Gum used to taste (peppery/soapy/violet gum - little purple Chicklet-y guys that lived in a small yellow box). Great staying power, too. I slathered this on before bed last night, and woke up to spicy candy wrists this morning.
Overall: Another winner, another addition to the Big Bottle Wishlist. A 5/5 in this grrl's book.
In the imp: Sugared violets.
On wet: Violets gone wild - candy sweet and incredibly bright. There's the faintest hint of earthiness peeping out from beneath that swirly floral haze, but it's too soft to tell if it's the incense or the cloves.
Drydown: Mmm...something smooth and warm has risen up and bitch-slapped those wee purple flowers into submission - I'm guessing the tonka. This new, lightly spiced, almost creamy undertone is what transforms this blend into something totally wearable.
Overall: Not a huge fan of violets - or florals in general, but the spicy edge that eventually emerges takes this fragrance to a whole other level. Don't know if I'll be wearing it very often, but I'll definitely be hanging on to my imp.
A comfortable 3/5.
In the imp: Lightly sweet, herbal greens.
On wet: Lilac, green things touched with mint, a smidge of sugar
Drydown: Hmm...the lilac (or the rose?) has gone a bit powdery. The floral contingent is quite strong, and more prominent than the fresh, green base (which is slowly disappearing the longer I sniff), the lavender, or the currant (it's finally decided to make an appearance - yay!). After about 10 minutes, it's become this really interesting, multi-layered scent - it's still pretty floral around the edges, but almost warm and lightly spiced at the center. Reminds me of a complex, high-end perfume now - but a really, really nice one.
Overall: Not a usual scent for me - it's a bit too classy/perfumey for my taste - but it's lovely all the same. 3/5
In the imp: Sweet fruit - like apricot (or in this case, nectarine) syrup.
On wet: Citrus. Lovely, fresh, lightly sugared citrus.
Drydown: Kinda perfumey. The citrus and nectarine sweetness have sort of merged into the other notes, none of which are very distinct to my nose. And I'm picking up on something "off" - like powdery carpet cleaner underneath everything else. Not sure, but I'm betting it's the sage (it doesn't like me usually). If I really inhale and mash my nose to my wrist, I get really delicious whiffs of musk and patchouli - too bad neither are very prominent.
Overall: Not quite what I was looking for - more delectable nectarine, that is. Croquet starts off promising, but the perfumey drydown - complete with sage hate (or whatever that dusty cleaner vibe was) isn't really my thing. I'll stick with my Ebisu, thanks. 2.5.5
In the bottle: Sharply green - like fresh cut green peppers - and an undercurrent of faintly sweet, masculine cologne.
On wet: Sweet green peppers and light cologne at first, but pressing my nose in close reveals that almost bitter smell that comes from newly fallen, turned - but not crunchy - autumn leaves.
Drydown: Very traditional cologne on me. There's a lightly sweet, aquatic-like freshness on top of an equally sweet, glowing base, and every now and then, I get that bitter leaf smell riding in between the two.
Overall: This scent wasn't much of a morpher on me, and didn't really deviate from the cologne-y vibe that carried on throughout. I really enjoyed the initial green pepper stage - it was *so* realistic to my nose, so crisp and juicy! - but it got lost towards the end. If that green freshness had stuck around, this puppy might've been something for me to wear regularly (I have no fear of "masculine" blends), but it didn't, and it works better on the Husband anyway, so I'll leave my favourite month's namesake to him. 3/5
In the imp: Buttery cake note (similar to Eat Me), and a touch of grapefruit.
On wet: Sweet, tangy grapefruit and...is that what guava smells like? Yum!
Drydown: If pink and yellow were scents, that's what I'd be smelling right now. Cherry blossom's edged out the fruit and taken over as the big star, all soft and pink and sweet like sugar water. There's a touch of something on the sidelines, though - just the barest hint of what I'm thinking is the grapefruit. It's muted - more like what I'd imagine the pith to smell like - less intense, softer, but retaining that grapefruity sharpness/bitterness.
Overall: Definitely a fun, girly scent that could be worn for any occasion. The original cake vibe never manifested on me (thankfully!), so a straight-up blend of sunny pinkness (sweet fruit and even sweeter cherry blossom) was what wafted around me most of the afternoon. Delightful! 4/5
In the imp: Strong and soapy - like good shampoo. Definitely picking up on the jasmine.
On wet: Sweet soap, jasmine, the sharpness of the ozone.
Drydown: Reminds me of a very traditional, department store perfume - though I tend to get that impression from most jasmine-heavy, shampoo-esque scents. The jasmine totally dominates on me, but I think I'm picking up on a higher-pitched sweetness, could be the moonflower. Moss and benzoin don't typically play nice on my skin, and the longer I have this on, it becomes apparent that this trend is going to continue. The benzoin is the more obvious of the two, and it almost *always* smells like burned/sour amber to my nose - not good. My two favourite notes in the blend - the iris and white musk - haven't appeared at all.
Overall: FYI, this imp is over two years old. When I first tried it, it smelled a lot lighter, a lot fresher, and the white musk was very prominent on the drydown - that's the only reason why I kept it, actually - I'm a white musk fiend! With the new round of discontinueds on its way, I figured I'd better give this one another go. With the absence of musk, and the heaviness of the jasmine, I'm glad I did - if only to rediscover that this scent isn't for me. It *is* a very high-end, classy kind of fragrance, though - something I could see wearing to a fancy dinner or the theatre. A 2.5/5 on my skin, though.
In the imp: Sweet, sweet pear, and some kind of glaringly bright, almost chemical floral.
On wet: Icky sweet pea (which, for whatever reason, hates me), and something that reminds me of my beloved Sleepy Moon! Unexpected and interesting!
Drydown: There's something powdery in here - it's doing the same itchy-dusty thing to my nose that most orchid scents do. Aside from that...this is a really hard scent for me to pin down! I'm still getting the sickly sweet pea (if a flower could go "off" the way food does, that would be how I'd describe my nose's interpretation of that note), and I think the lilies and honeysuckle have banded together with it to form this gang of icky, overwhelming floral-ness. Can't tell if the heliotrope has jumped into the mix - my nose is being pummeled and robbed as I speak...er, type. I can tell you what I'm *not* smelling, though - white musk and pear! The two notes I was *hoping* to get a good dose of. Ain't that always the way?
Overall: Another "not a good scent for me" blend. The florals are too sharp, too cloying, and none of them seem to like me very much. I was kinda hoping for the lilies, pear, and musk to dominate, but that simply was not to be. I'm not particularly surprised, though - sweet pea is one of my absolute ick notes, and honeysuckle isn't far behind, so I had reservations from the get-go - but the white musk fan in me had to at least give this scent a shot. Which I now have. 2/5
In the bottle: Mmm...sweet, sweet apple cider. It's that same Golden Delicious apple note I get from Harvest Moon 06 (even though it's red apple listed in both blends - to me, it's very golden).
On wet: Instant spice, a dash of wood, the smokiness of myrrh, peppery-creamy carnation, and something that makes me think of (oddly enough) fresh, cool water lingering around the edges.
Drydown: Spice - including that fantastic peppered cream of the carnation - is still the most prominent aspect of this blend. The subtle, sweet earthiness of fig is detectable, though, as are the occasional whiffs of those sparkling golden apples. The wood, myrrh, smoke, musk, and patch are all sticking close to my skin, and, depending on where my nose is at any given time, I get bits and bites of each to varying degrees - really lovely. No toasted almond to be found. I'm thinking it got buried under all the other smoky/woody stuff.
Overall: Another delightful autumn scent to add to my collection - like the love child of spicy-woody-smoky-dry Chrysanthemum Moon, and the spiced apple-patchouli goodness of Samhain (with a dash of happy-apple influence from cousin Harvest Moon 06). I'd have preferred a *wee* bit more fruit to contrast with all that spiced smoke, but that's a small thing against everything else I enjoyed about this blend. And who knows what will come with some age? I'm betting it'll be even more incredible next year! 4/5
Originally reviewed: Dec. 17 05
In the Imp: A faintly fruity smell - like dirty or dusty fruit. I'm wondering if I really want to wear this.
Wet: Starts out kind of sharp, reminding me of how Medicine Show begins, but without the greenish/herbal tinge MS has. Perversion's got more of a "brownish" feel to it, and again I find myself thinking it smells a little like dirty fruit - possibly cherries.
Drydown: Oooh... Less than a minute later, it's TOTALLY morphed. That strange swampy fruit smell has completely dissipated, and now it's become this softly sweet, almost powdery whisper against my skin. The rum, tobacco, and vanilla (tonka?) are the predominant scents I'm getting at this point, all gently swirling together like some decadent brand of butterscotch ripple ice cream. So YUM!
Verdict: I'm so glad I decided to take the plunge and try this fragrance, despite my initial trepidation. The results I got definitely prove you can't judge a scent by imp-sniffing alone. I will definitely be wearing this again.
Overall Rating: 4 happy noses out of 5.
In the imp: Sweet, misty violets...and something almost minty?
On wet: I hate saying this but...household cleaner! A *good* cleaner, mind - like method or one of the other enviro-friendly brands that makes pretty smelling stuff - but still, not what I was looking for. ::crosses fingers for a morph on the drydown::
Drydown: I'm still getting cleaner in the background (but I'm willing to admit that this may be because I'm actually sniffing around for lingering traces of it). On top is an almost effervescent perfumey-ness - very bright, very sweet, and almost kind of delicate. The words "sparkly" and "fresh" come to mind. The violets are alive and kicking, I'm still able to detect a whisper of mint, and nothing even remotely "boggy" has crashed the party yet.
Overall: Not as strongly violet as I'd hoped for, and a bit too aquatic/sweet for my taste, but definitely a nice scent. A good choice for warm weather, going to work, or hanging with friends - very wearable. 3/5
In the imp: A clean citrus-tea scent. Slightly sweet, slightly floral, slighty aquatic.
On wet: Bathroom air freshener.
Drydown: Sweet, sweet floral. Faint citrus. A sharpness reminiscent of ozone - perhaps the bamboo? (I'm discovering that I'm not a fan of bamboo in certain blends.) The sandalwood's underneath everything, lending an almost incensey quality to the overall experience. Still reminds me of something you'd use to clean a public restroom, though.
Overall: I heartily agree with some of the previous reviewers who mention similarities between this scent and Neo-Tokyo. Unsurprisingly, since I absolutely LOATHED Neo-Tokyo (it was the very first scent I needed to wash off immediately), I'm not exactly loving this one, either. A shame, really - I haven't been able to pull off any blends with dragon's blood so far, and this one - with all its exotic ingredients - had me hopeful.
