brsis

Initial thoughts: I'm a sucker for the Aztec scents, and hopeful for this since Xiuhtecuhtli turned out to be seven kinds of awesomeness and win. I can't really tell what to expect from this - there are resins, there are spices, there are herbs, fruits and florals. All I know is I'm looking forward to it. In the imp: This is a tricky one - it's very complex. There's a wet freshness underneath which I'm assuming is the prickly pear, a hint of sage, a hint of a floral, something more solid bodied and low-key. Hmm. On the wrist, wet: Hmm... not quite spicy, not quite herbal, but in that ball park. We're definately talking aromatic leaves, with a tingle of coriander. The fruit and floral isn't so pronounced now, except for a slightly sweet almost vanilla-ness. A little bit of warm amber underneath, maybe. Hmm. Twenty minutes later: This is a warm, juicy tropical fruit/floral, backed up by aromatic (but not pungent) herbs and resins. I really, REALLY like this - it's exactly the kind of hot, sweet fruit scent I like - it almost smells like baking fruit. Verdict: Bottle me! Tl;Dr: Hot cooking fruit, sweet tulip poppy and aromatic Mexican herbs.

Initial thoughts: I like the sound of this - it was something I initially dismissed because of the mandarin and florals, but now I've learnt that these actually work quite well on my skin I'm quite keen. I do hope that this is going to be a happy jumbled scent instead of a disconcerting one. In the imp: Woods, PEPPER, sweet bubbly florals... this is bright and light and tingly, without being overly sharp. It smells like my kind of thing, actually. On the wrist, wet: PEPPER! I can also smell the woods and what I think is the peony and lily - certainly there's a silky wonderfulness underneath the wood and the tingly pepper. This is deliciously unisex, joyful and invigorating and just a teensy bit MAD. Twenty minutes later: This reminds me of The Dodo a little - not from what it actually smells like, just the combination of the sweetness, the woods and something loud and tingly. This is lighter, silkier, more feminine - flowers rather than fruit - but grounded by the woods and brightened by the pepper all at the same time. This is really rather lovely. Verdict: Bottle! Tl;Dr: The Dodo's feminine counterpart - silky petalled florals grounded by woods and scattered by tingly pale pepper.

Initial thoughts: Ozone... patchouli is not exactly my best friend either. I dunno... I'm not expecting very much from this one. In the imp: Ozone, gunpowder, maybe the musk... quite a harsh and flat scent. Not wowing me strait off the bat. On the wrist, wet: That gunpowder goes right up my nose and camps on my sinuses. Other than that, this is a faint, fairly unisex sort of blend... not really my thing, plus the ozone is playing up. Ah well. Twenty minutes later: This is a slightly sharp, slightly leathery aquatic kind of thing... it doesn't seem to work very well at all on my skin, and I don't think it suits me. Verdict: Swap Tl;Dr: A light but firm scent; sea spray and gunpowder.

Initial thoughts: ... that poem scares me. Other than that - gardenia and vanilla = win. Violets... well, I can live with violets. I think. In the imp: Violets and gardenia... delicious. On the wrist, wet: More violet, less gardenia... I now smell like those purple violet sweets with a hint of something plasticy. Twenty minutes later: This is an odd little scent - one moment it's pure gardenia, the next dusty, sharp violet. I enjoy the scent, but I don't think I'll be wearing it often. Verdict: Keeper, but no bottle Tl;Dr: A sweet, creamy even blend of gardenia and violet.

Initial thoughts: Huh. This isn't a scent I would have picked for myself, based on the concept... I don't know that it's something I would have picked for myself on the notes either. Almonds fade very fast on me, so I'm actually looking at honeyed spices and that... sounds so good... In the imp: Spicy toasted almonds. I can never smell anything but almond in an almond blend until it's on my skin. On the wrist, wet: Ach, that's potent, bitter almonds. Not best pleased so far... but lets see what happens when the almonds go away in about fifteen minutes. Twenty minutes later: This is a bit heavy and bitter for my liking - it just isn't sweet or what I consider 'spicy' (Which basically means nutmeg, clove, cinnamon and ginger to me) enough. Don't think I like it enough to keep. Verdict: Swap Tl;Dr: Bitter toasted almonds and woody spices.

Initial thoughts: Uh-oh. That there's an ozone scent, I can spot it from here. I'm not getting my hopes up. In the imp: Salty sea spray is about all I'm getting. On the wrist, wet: Sweet, wet, slightly salty... I do almost get the woodsy-ness underneath, but I'm afraid this is gonna go soapy on the drydown... which is almost garunteed, alas. Twenty minutes later: ... No way. No. Friggin. Way. Every other scent with 'sea spray' listed actually smelt like Ocean Fresh soap. Why does THIS one - inexplicably - smell like actual spray-washed wood? I don't pick out the leather (Which should if anything be compounding the soapiness) and perhaps only a bare hint of Bay Rum, but this is an unexpected win. It's subtle and gentle enough that I could wear it to work or suchlike. I'm very pleased with this! Verdict: Keeper... not sold on a bottle just yet. Tl;Dr: Worn woods washed in sea spray. Light and subtle.

Initial thoughts: Frankincense, heliotrope, cinnamon? I'm tentative on the vanilla (Sometimes it works, sometimes it dont) and unsure on the almond, but I think I may be onto something with this. In the imp: Woahmygawd almond. On the wrist, wet: Tasty almond pastries. That'll be the vanilla and cinnamon trying to make themselves known. Twenty minutes later: This is a teensy bit irritating... don't know if it's the cinnamon or the almond, or a combination of the two, but my skin is crawling. I don't have a fully fledged allergy to either, but those who do might want to avoid it. Scent wise, this is like a sunshine flavoured pastry. I can't really describe it better than that - it's light, and slightly sweet, and golden, and slightly foody. I really like this. Verdict: Keeper... I may even end up with a bottle of this! Tl;Dr: Powerful almond fades to golden vanilla and sunshine heliotrope.

Initial thoughts: ... Wow. In the imp: Warm, dark, hot fruitiness, sultry jasmine, a slight ginger tang... this is not actually very sweet, but it's veeeeery sexy. On the wrist, wet: Apricot kernel, a hint of smoggy jasmine... my skin is drinking this one, but it smells like warm skin... only, y'know, sexier. Twenty minutes later: It's hard to tell, because my skin DOES drink this so much, but there's something in there just not behaving quite right and the result is that it smells odd and slightly plasticy on my skin. Alas, this is not for me. Verdict: Swap Tl;Dr: Soft, dark and sultry - those who have trouble with jasmine and vanilla beware.

Initial thoughts: I really don't know what to think of this one - it sounds like a great masculine blend, but I'm worried the pine is gonna go toilet duck on me like it did with Golden Priapus. Can't hurt to try it, though. In the imp: Rich, regal rosemary and bay - deliciously herbal, but strong and dark green and ever so slightly cruel. I'm quite liking this. On the wrist, wet: I smell like something cooking. And not in a good way. The pine is a bit potent, and the whole thing is just a little too smoky and dirty for my liking. Still, it might mellow on the dry-down. Twenty minutes later: Very, VERY potently herbal... this is kinda ok, but I still can't shake the feeling I smell like the stuff we sprinkle over the chicken before roasting it (Probably because I do). I'm never gonna wear this often, but it might get some wear in the winter, as it's a very potent, warming scent. Verdict: Keeping the imp, but don't think I'll EVER consider a bottle. Tl;Dr: Potent, dark green rosemary and bay, sharpened and darkened by pine.

Initial thoughts: I wanted to kick this when I saw the rose in it - other than that, I'm really quite tempted by the idea of a floral leather. With incense to boot, yummeh. In the imp: Orange blossom and leather. On the wrist, wet: Still mostly the orange blossom, but there's a leathery soapyness underneath. Twenty minutes later: Lost the orange blossom, now just left with the leathery soap. Pity, this isn't gonna fly. Verdict: Swap Tl;Dr: Didn't work. AT ALL.

Initial thoughts: Hmmm... it's not that the notes fill me with dread, exactly - I really like the cassia in The Dodo, mandarin is Ok, I like tonka, plum, tobacco... red musk and patchouli are a bit iffy... it's just that I'm not getting excited. Yet. In the imp: Cassia, tobacco, a hint of fruit... ok, now I'm excited. On the wrist, wet: Red musk, which is unfortunate - stuff doesn't like me much - cassia... not much else, actually. I think my skin's drunk this stuff, or I've just tried too many scents today. Twenty minutes later: Alas, all I'm really getting from this is the muggy, plastic unpleasantness red musk becomes on my skin and cassia - I was hoping that the fruits and tobacco would make this wearable on me, but it's just not doing anything. Verdict: Swaps you go. Tl;Dr: The red musk and cassia are the most prominent parts of this for me.

Initial thoughts: Not a combination that thrills me, I'm afraid. I'm not a fan of vetiver on it's own, not really, and this is probably just a little too plain for me. In the imp: Vetiver, check. Myrrh, check. Does what it says on the tin. On the wrist, wet: Much of same... this is dark and heavy and a teensy bit nutty, in the way that vetiver can sometimes be. Twenty minutes later: It's thick and heavy, true... but it's still just a murky, black vetiver scent. I amp vetiver like mad, so I wasn't expecting anything else, but I have other vetiver scents I prefer. Verdict: Swap Tl;Dr: Vetiver, and lots of it - dark and murky.

Initial thoughts: Argh... woods, lilac and osmanthus is a wearable combination, but those roses are gonna spoil it for me, I can just tell. In the imp: Wispy, wraith-like roses. On the wrist, wet: Sticky roses and a breath of other florals... not my kind of thing. Twenty minute later: Wispy, powdery pollen heavy florals... no go, I'm afraid. Verdict: Swaps Tl;Dr: Pale, powdery florals with the ghost of some wood notes underneath.

Initial thoughts: I could not resist a 13. How could I resist a 13? Chocolate has not proved to be my best friend so far, but apple blossom, honey suckle, black tea, allspice and nutmeg is a pretty good line up as far as my skin chemistry is concerned. Rock on. In the bottle: This is sickly-sweet, candy-like on first sniff, more obviously floral on the second sniff. I think I can pick out the apple blossom and honeysuckle, and a hint of the spices (Although that could be the fact I'm testing three other hideously over-spiced scents at the same time...) On the wrist, wet: Hey, you know those white milk bottle sweets you get in Haribo Supermix? No, I'm NOT joking. This smells like a handful of those covered in apple blossoms, honeysuckle flowers, and a gentle sprinkling of allspice. Luckily, I love those sweets and this smells absolutely fantastic to me. Twenty minutes later: I think I've mostly got the 'white' element from the white chocolate... without any actual chocolate. On top of that there's deliciously fruity-floral apple blossom and honeysuckle, being playful and flirty, the barest hint of spices... man, I love this. Really love this. Verdict: Keeper and a new favourite, I think. Tl;Dr: Deliciously creamy sweetness, apple blossom and honeysuckle, and a hint of spice.

Initial thoughts: Gingerbread men. YUM. In the bottle: Overspiced gingerbread men. YUM. On the wrist wet: Gingerbread men heavy on the nutmeg. YUM. Twenty minutes later: Ditto the above, only not so pungent. YUM. In short - my skin eats cinnamon and clove, so unfortunately this is a bit nutmeg and not much else on my skin... but it's warm and tasty and YUM. That is all. Verdict: Keeper. Tl;Dr: YUM

Initial thoughts: Dude. Just... look at those notes. Just LOOK AT THEM. Fig, pomegranate, cocoa, vanilla, honey musk and tonka = yes please. Lemon, bergamot = Why not? Calamus = what on earth is that, exactly? In the bottle: WEIRD. Just... weird. It's fruity but without any of the body I normally associate with that... it's not sweet but it's not un-sweet... it's dark and light in equal measures, a hint of warmth, a hint of sharpness... weird. On the wrist, wet: Sweet, fruity, slightly musky, slightly sharp, slightly heavy. This is busy and confusing, which I do kinda like, but... this is confusing to the point that it makes me feel slightly unwell. Twenty minutes later: I'm beginning to think fig doesn't love me - it always goes fuggy and sweet and PURPLE on me. Nevertheless, this is intriguing - it's a study in opposites. I can't decide whether or not it's a warm or a cool scent, fruity or not, whether there's a hint of sharpness or a hint of dusty honeyed resin. Sometimes I sniff and get a distinct honey and vanilla on top of the fruits, other times it's dusty cocoa and a tang of lemon and tonka. I'm gonna have to give this another test another time, because I just cannot decide. Verdict: Keeper... for now. Tl;Dr: A bizarre, confusing blend that shifts from one extreme to another.

Initial thoughts: Good. LORD. Lookit that. Bamboo pulp and teas. The only way I'm not loving this is if it turns into old socks and cat's privates on my skin. In the bottle: Green. Fresh. Watery (Not aquatic). This is a beautifully peaceful and uplifting scent, and I never thought I'd actually ever use that word. On the wrist, wet: Much of the same - it's very gentle and fresh and greeeeeen. Bamboo pulp must be the slight astringency I get from this scent. Just off the bat, it seems like it'll make a good sleep scent for hot days. Twenty minutes later: The astringency has settled down and the tea has come forward. This is not a powerful scent - I know it's there, I can almost pick out what I'm smelling, but the overall impression is one of pure, unadulterated moonlit night time air in some green oriental grove. It's comforting and relaxing and invigorating all at the same time. It's zen in a bottle. Verdict: Keeper, absolutely. Tl;Dr: Soft, pervasive teas and bamboo makes for a soothing, meditative oriental fragrance.

Initial thoughts: I don't know whether it's the dark or the light patchoulis that behave themselves best on my skin, bu that's pretty much the only thing making me wary of this scent. The rest sounds like a match made in heaven (Or possibly Hallowe'en Town) In the bottle: Dried leaves, cooked fruit and a hint of spice. Not exactly foody, it doesn't have the comfort quality, but it's warm with a hint of outdoorsyness (Lookit I made up a word) On the wrist, wet: My first thought is spices, but they're not overwhelming. I'm definately picking up on the wood/fir needle/patchouli thing as well. Not much pumpkin and apple yet, which is a shame. Twenty minutes later: This is primarily a spices thing on me - patchouli is behaving itself, only a hint of delicious dried fruit but still that odd sense of dried leaves. This is definately my kind of a scent - it's distinct enough from my other spices scents that I'm wanting to keep it, but it's also gentle and comforting which my other spices scents aren't. I can see myself using this as a sleep blend in the autumn. Verdict: I'm not in love, but it's definately a keeper for later in the year. Tl;Dr: Soft dried fruit and autumn leaves, dusted generously with gentle comforting spices.

Initial thoughts: This was my first ever Lab order and... it tested me. Severely. I persevered, because I am a dragon person and if Dragon Moon isn't gonna work on me, what the hell is? But it's here now! And looking at those notes, I'm anticipating something herby but fresh. Yum. In the bottle: It is herbal, but more like a dry herbal incense than the freshness I was expecting. Still good, though. I can pick out the sage and the frankincense, but not the others distincly. On the wrist, wet: Herbal - very herbal, soft and slightly sweet... initially I was about to describe it as soapy, but I think it's actually just the freshness of the cedar, mint and bergamot confusing my nose. Interesting... quite a skin hugger. Twenty minutes later: This is a very soft, herby scent - just a tiny bit resinous, and very close to the skin. It's not dusty or murky, it's very clean and gentle. It's interesting, but it's very, very soft and I'm more of a loud, bright scents kind of person. I think it might make a good sleep blend on me, though. Verdict: Keeper, but mainly for sentimental reasons. Tl;Dr: A gentle, clean herbal scent with a hint of resin, calming and fresh.

Initial thoughts: Oh. My. Gawd. Lookit... all that... food... In the imp: Oh god. Ohgodohgodohgod this smells so edible it should be made illegal. I get the buttercream, pralines, toffee and caramel most prominently, and a funny giggly note which I think might be the hops... a hint of nutty goodness, but only very, very slightly. I am now incredibly hungry. Om nom nom. On the wrist, wet: This is... weird, and yet oddly hypnotic. It doesn't smell distinctly of any of the notes I picked out in the bottle - it's not even that heavy sugary smell I got from Sugar Skull. It's a weird, swollen boozy baking smell... nutty, even. It's making my mouth water. Twenty minutes later: This is really, really weird. I smell like burnt caramel, sinful baking and evil maple syrup, with a weird boozy note. It's yummy, but it's also harsh and cruel and... odd. Verdict: Keeper, but I don't know if I'm going to wear this often. Tl;Dr: Sticky, sinful burnt caramel cookies.

Initial thoughts: WHOOO LOVECRAFT-ahem, yes, I do do that every time. I was really keen on this one from the get-go, but now that I've tried a few more things I'm slightly worried that the musk and sandalwood may make it unpleasant for me. Which is a shame, because I was looking for a good dry coconut. In the imp: Rich, fleshy coconut and a wiff of incense... like the Elder Gods did a really interesting brand of suntan lotion. On the wrist, wet: There's something sharp and dry which I think is the sandalwood and something... maybe the musk, maybe the orris root, and the incense which is vaguely reminiscent of Al-Azif, but much dryer and less potent. The coconut is not nearly so pronounced on my skin. So far, interesting but a tad odd. Twenty minutes later: Yes, this is definately Al-Azif suntan lotion. Normally coconut is quite nice on me, but the incense and the musk are doing funky things. Alas, it doesn't love me. Verdict: Swap Tl;Dr: The funky incense from Al-Azif toned down by musk and coconut.

Initial thoughts: I want to love this. I so want to love this, but my track record is against me. All the pirate scents - which all seem to include ozone and wood - just become something bland, soapy and unappealing on my skin. I almost feel sorry for myself subjecting my skin to Yet Another Pirate Scent which won't work. In the imp: Scratch that. Scratch it. I take back the whole last paragraph. What I get first of all from this is a toned down Bakeneko without the cinnamon note. There is Fruit. And Spices. And a hint of wood, to be true, but still. We are back on MY territory, even if it doesn't work out on my skin, this is not just another pirate scent. On the wrist, wet: Forget the rum - this smells like spiced cider. But it's not potent - not at all, it's more like catching the scent through an open doorway. There's also a woodiness, and I can almost get the salty sea air... without it turning to soap either. This is interesting - possibly a little bit light for my tastes, but definately interesting. Twenty minutes later: Well, the good news is that the gentle spicy loveliness with the woody touch is still there. The bad news is that there must be ozone or something similar in there somewhere, and it's turned to faint salty soap. I smell like I've washed with a really good spiced soap. Near the ocean. It's actually rather pleasant - the soapy kick puts me off if I get too close, but the throw is light, discreet but damn fine once you've noticed it. Verdict: Keeper, I'll think on the bottle. Tl;Dr: Spices and wood carried on a light night breeze off the ocean.

Initial thoughts: Oh my. Oh my oh my. Oh... dear God, just put it on already! NOW! In the imp: Phwoar. Tobacco, yes, but not the nice fragrant note I get from something like Ogun, this is thick and black and gives you lung cancer just from looking at it. Leather, yup, getting that too. Ambergris and incense? Quite possibly. There's also an unmistakable tang of single malt whisky, which isn't listed in the notes but goes rather well with the theme, doncha think? Overall, a heavy, thick sort of scent... not actually as masculine as I first expected. On the wrist, wet: I hope I like this, because thanks to dropping the imp wand it's now what my knitting smells like. On, there's some slight funkiness going on with the musk - it can behave a touch oddly on me - heavy tobacco, leather, that slight licorise tang I get from the combination of the two... bit of incense? Quite possibly. So far, this is interesting, but not really me... a bit like Stimulating Sassafras Strengthener, it's catching in the back of my throat and making me feel ever so slightly queasy. Twenty minutes later: This is a little too close to Herr Drosselmeyer for me to get really excited - I love Herr, but with it's linen note etc it's cleaner and warmer than this. It's hot and muggy - leather, tobacco, and a definate twang that catches in my throat, which I think is the musk misbehaving just a little. Overall, this is good - just not that good, and Herr Dross is better. Verdict: Keeper, might consider a bottle if my Herr Drosselmeyer ever runs out. Tl;Dr: Heavy, thick hot leather, tobacco, and a wiff of dark ambergris incense with a musky tang.

Initial thoughts: ... woah. I mean, just... woah. Look at those notes. This is way more interesting looking than I originally gave it credit for, and given that I can happily whirl around the room humming the Saint-Saens composition by the same name, I think it's definately one I should have tried before now. In the imp: Oh my. If I try, I can pick out every one of those scents - the tang of cypress, the dry green oakmoss, the gentle frankincense, dusty woody oude and the wonderful cooked nuttiness of the hazelnut. Overall, this is captivating - tangy but not sharp or bright, with a regal mossy, woody undertone that isn't heavy at all, and that wonderful almost edible nuttiness. Mmmmm... On the wrist, wet: The cypress is coming to the forefront - my, and that's potent cypress - but I can still get the mossy undertone and a tang of frankincense. It's not quite as nice on - the cypress is a little strong for my liking - but it might recede in the drydown so I'll give it a chance. Twenty minutes later: Eh. In the dry-down, this has become the vague trace you'd get from washing your hands with a particularly bland antibacterial hand soap. The cypress just doesn't like me and my skin seems to have drunk all the other notes. What a pity. Verdict: Swap pile you go. Tl;Dr: Tangy, with a woody, mossy undertone and a hint of nut. Fades to nothing on contact.

Initial thoughts: I don't seem to have a huge amount of luck with the Ars Moriendi scents, and although this one seems like it could be quite good on me, I worry that it's going to be a little too simple and boring for my tastes. In the imp: Amber, check. Musk, check. Soft and dark and a little bit cold. On the wrist, wet: Very soft, not quite sweet - the amber is gentle and smooth, and the musk makes it warm and a little bit heady. It's quite faint on me, and due to the amber I'm half expecting an incense edge that isn't going to happen. The musk has got an almost tingly, herbal quality to it. Twenty minutes later: This is a little bit odd - I'm not sure I approve of the way heavy musks behave on my skin. It's not exactly unpleasant - it's just not for me. Verdict: Swap pile Tl;Dr: Soft, gentle amber and warm dark musk.