marared
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Extremely plummy indeed, and something in this smells of old-school BPAL. It takes me straight back to 2008. Bright juicy plum, spicy clove, sweet with honey. Very spring floral, quite a lot of throw. I was surprised to find out mogra is Indian jasmine - jasmine can be kinda poopy on me and this is definitely not. I wouldn't call it delicate, though; it's pretty strident on me.
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This is a very dry scent. Low-key leather and incense is at the forefront for the first couple of minutes, and then slowly the beeswax starts to sing. The vanilla is not particularly strong, but it lends a very gentle sweetness alongside the beeswax, whereas the galbanum imparts the earthiness. Snooty Bat is much louder, sweeter, and generally demanding of attention, whereas Nouria is content to just do her thing in the background. I like this a lot. Edit to add that it became a lot more strongly vanilla later on.
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Unlike Opium Poppies, this announces itself as Snake Oil right off the bat. It's red and spicy and floral, very strong, tons of throw. Not as much clove as I was expecting, much more of the allspice. Snake Oil often goes a little play-doh-y on me, and I do detect a bit of dough here but it's well camouflaged. More sugared vanilla than patchouli, too. I don't think I'm going to reach for this very often, but I think it will be quite popular with the SO fans.
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As the others have mentioned, this is not really an identifiably Snake Oil blend, at least not on the surface. Once it's had a chance to sit on my skin for a while, the SO is there when I sniff really deeply, but the main presentation is plum and poppy with the dark and drowsy opium/laudanum running through it. I thought this would be similar to Strawberry Moon 2024 and I was correct - this is cooler and more purple in feel. Much to my surprise, it even reminds me a little of my beloved Penumbra.
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Fresh out of the mailbox, on first sniff I thought it smelled just like a Luper from three years ago, Penis Bound With Gold Ribbon, and in fact has mostly similar notes. I don't have it anymore to compare side by side - I sold it off because it didn't work all that well with my chemistry. I was a little skeptical of this at first because of PBWGR, but after a few days of rest, Seule actually works better on me. The skin musk is the most prominent, which is what I was hoping for - warm, glowy amber underneath it, with just a touch of lemon. Delightful spring scent. Not a whole lot of throw, wonderful for canoodling. I've also tried the previously mentioned White Honey, Lemon Peel, and Salt, but I thought that was a lot more bracing and tart than this. Another sister scent would be Sed Non Satiata - SNS is a lot more potent and more floral, but it has the skin musk.
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Boney Moon: Piñon and Blackened Lavender
marared replied to doomsday_disco's topic in Duets & Menage A Trois
This was a little punchy on arrival and I had to let it settle down for a couple days before I could review it. In the bottle: very dry lavender. First on the skin: very intense dry lavender, with piñon wood behind it. After a few minutes, the wood comes to the forefront. The two notes battle it out for dominance - every few minutes they swap, and it goes on like this for 10-15 minutes until they finally decide to play nice together. Piñon is a southwestern pine tree with edible nuts. There's a wonderful incense of it that you can buy from shops in New Mexico, California, etc, and it has a campfire quality to it, with a hint of burnt sugar sap - I don't smell any of that that slight sweetness here. It settles into bone-dry lavender incense. There's enough throw that I can smell it when my hands move at normal working distance from my face. I don't find it "relaxing" in that I wouldn't wear this to bed the way I do other lavender blends, it's just a bit too strong and distracting. It's very pretty, though, after it's had a chance to settle on the skin. -
This was not at all what I expected in the end - I bought it to support the cause, but it was a surprise hit. In the bottle and freshly applied, it's very citrussy - bright, fresh tangy, a bit of powderiness from the amber, cool sweet musk. When it dries and has had a couple of hours on my skin, though, it morphs quite a lot - but in a really good way. The citrus mostly evaporates (as it often does), leaving the honey and amber as the star of the show, and they meld together so well that they don't even stand out as traditional notes. Champaca can be really grapey headshoppy, but here it's just a warm, glowing incense sort of smell. If you liked La Ofrenda, this has kinda the same vibe but less floral. I put it on before work this morning for the first time, noted that it was mostly citrus and musk, and a couple hours later I kept thinking "What smells so good? Is it me? It IS me!" and I was astonished at how much the scent had changed and how good it was.
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This was a surprise hit for me. I bought it because it had similar notes to Gloom Meeting, which is my favorite hair gloss. It didn't really work for me when I first got it, so I put it away for a while, and I checked on it today after fifteen months. Whoa. This is an incredible oakmoss wrapped in dark musk and amber - it's warm, rich, and velvety just like the description. My primary concern when I ordered it was the russet musk, afraid it would be too much like red musk, which I amp to high heaven, but it is definitely not. The sandalwood is very dry and it's there from the start, but it becomes more prominent over time and the whole impression becomes less sweet/resinous, but it's still extremely grown-up and decadent. Wear it on a date to a fancy restaurant! ETA: I've been obsessed with this all weekend, and it's gotten into my hoodie sleeves, where I notice "red" musk a great deal more than I do in the bottle or on my skin.
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Aged a year: This is all sparkly sugar plum. There's a little bit of stickiness from the marshmallow, but I wouldn't be able to tell you this had lavender if I didn't already know. It makes me think of Extreme Sour Warheads, with that sour powder coating and sweet candy inside.
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I got this a week ago and it was so powerful in the bottle I couldn't even try it on, I had to put it in a drawer to calm down a little. It's still pretty loud even now. Many of the Dead Leaves scents mention a bell pepper scent, which I had never personally smelled. This is not a Dead Leaves scent, but sniffing the bottle, it's almost all bell pepper. Once I convinced my nose to get past that impression, I mostly smell the black pepper and charred wood, and just a little bit of the vetiver and amber. On my skin, it changes dramatically. The wood is now at the forefront and no bell pepper, but it's a little weird. Peppery wood, but there's still a slightly vegetal zing to it and I don't like that. I let it sit for about ten minutes and that vegetal zing has faded, thankfully, and it has now morphed into smoky, scorched vetiver with an undercurrent of wood and amber. I have not been able to pick out the clove and nutmeg at all, the vetiver, pepper, and wood are so strong that they're just overwhelmed. This is not a gentle scent at all. The throw is not quite as intense as it was in the bottle when I first got it, but people are gonna smell you coming.
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Bodegón Con Cesto de Frutas, Melocotones, Granadas Y Bernegal
marared replied to doomsday_disco's topic in Limited Editions
The end result is spicy fruit, waaaay more spicy than fruit, and it's quite a ride to get there. It reminds me a little of the Tajin-spiced fruit gummies, without the lime. In the bottle, fresh off the doorstep: it's dry cacao with chili - not sweet at all. There's a little bit of fig and a little bit of honey hiding underneath. Immediately on the skin: at first there is a hesitant bit of fruit, and then BAM chili peppers. The cacao is there too, but the chili peppers dominate this. It's like walking into a kitchen in New Mexico. It holds strong for a good ten minutes before the peach finally makes an appearance, and then it sweetens up a little, but the chilis are still there grabbing you by the nose hairs. The cacao has now mostly faded. I'm impressed by how much punch the chilis still have, though. I was a little worried about the fig because BPAL fig frequently doesn't play nice with my chemistry, but it is buried at the bottom of the fruit basket being generally inoffensive. The peach fades quickly into a more generic fruit aroma, nothing that I could say was pomegranate. This is such an interesting scent! -
So just from the bottle, I get why people describe it as vinegar. It is definitely acrid, with the woodsmoke right behind it. Immediately on my skin, there's the barbecue sauce. (I'm an Eastern Carolina vinegar girl, myself.) It takes about ten minutes for the barbecue to fade, leaving behind the woodsmoke, and at this point the brown musk comes out to play. The labdanum is barely noticeable; all it really does add a little of its signature effervescence, making the scent less dark as the smoke note recedes into the background. This isn't something I would describe as animalic or feral or unhygienic. It's warm and fuzzy, but it's a dark warm and fuzzy.
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Really old imp, at least several years. Dark and sweet. The vetiver has aged to the point of being smooth and mellow - the only smoke here comes from the sandalwood. The lemon rind initially made this smell like high class hand soap in a pump, but it faded very quickly, as did the vetiver, and after about 5 minutes I'm left with a slightly sweet sandalwood. Very pretty.
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I've had this bottle of Bast for four years, and it is FINALLY aged enough to be wearable. I don't quite know what the deal was - something always turned sharp and weird on my skin after only a few minutes. But after sitting on my wall mostly untouched except being tested once a year or so, it's become something really nice. It is bone-dry myrrh and amber - shockingly not powdery - with just a touch of sweetness from the honey underneath. The vanilla blends with the honey, and the cacao and cardamom aren't even detectable. After about ten minutes, the honey comes forward, but still dominated by myrrh. And just now I got a tiny whiff of the cacao and cardamom, but just barely. I was afraid I was going to have to sell this, but I'm glad that it finally works on me!
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In the bottle, this smells like delicious strawberry chocolate tea - and strangely enough, I clearly smell those three scents in that order almost every time I sniff the bottle. On the skin, the gloom description really comes into play. The chocolate and tea recede, and the laudanum accord, champaca, incense, and musk step up. They're almost two completely different scents within minutes. It's in the same general scent family as B&BW's Dark Kiss, but more complex and adult. The laudanum is the lynchpin to the overall feel of the blend. It's the smell of a low-lit room where you've indulged in some mind-altering substances. It's not really what I'd call ominous - it's dark, it's relaxed, it's a weighted blanket muffling the world around you for a little while. This will probably be pretty potent with body heat, but right now it's low to medium throw. And other than the immediate difference between skin and bottle, this hasn't morphed much. I may reach more for it in the fall, but this is definitely a winner of a scent!