PurringPulsar

Marcilla In the imp: smells a bit like Tamamo meets Aglaea, a musky peach scent. Wet on skin: sharp tea and lilac! But it’s not unpleasant. Dry on skin: not bad! This is a really pretty and unique scent. The lilac, a note that often goes wilted on me, seems to be behaving. The tea is tangy and astringent but in a pleasant way, it smells like a cup of bergamot-infused green tea. The nectarine is sweet and peachy, but not as sweet as the peach notes, this one’s a little more tart. The musk and beeswax are what seem to be making this scent lovely, adding a golden, velvety, almost honeyed touch. It reminds me of Tamamo, but with lilac. After a while: the sharpness settles down dramatically and this becomes a lovely soft golden peach musk scent. really nice. It reminds me of Fae, it’s the peachy nectarine, bergamot and musk I think that make it smell like that. The beeswax is really lovely here, not as honey-like as it can be, in here it’s a proper wax scent. There is a bit of additional floral from the lilac, and that’s the note that I’m ambivalent about…it keeps veering on the verge of turning into soap. I’m still uncertain about the soapy aspect I sometimes get, which is a shame because the golden peach scent is so pretty. The scent seems to fluctuate between beautiful beeswax peach and soapy lilac (and white ginger? It doesn’t smell like spicy ginger to me so maybe it’s the floral kind?) every now and then, making me unsure about this scent. The drydown isn’t as nice, not as much peach, and the lilac turns to a soapy lily-like scent. it reminds me a bit of Her Voice, though not as sharp and bitter. Verdict: this is a very pretty, intriguing scent. The nectarine note is very pretty, not sharp like the one in Ebisu, this is more like a peach note. The tea is very nice, refreshing and tangy but not too tart. This overall reminds me of a peach herbal tea, backed with glowing notes of golden musk and beeswax, and lilac. The beeswax is lovely but I found it too subtle in this scent-I like it when it is a main player in a scent. the lilac unfortunately turns a bit soapy on me after a while, and does distract from the golden peach tea scent, which is a shame. Ultimately this isn’t one to keep, there are other peach scents I prefer, but I admire the unique mix of notes here. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Not really. If you like this, try: Tamamo No Mae, Aglaea, Fae, Angeronalia, Night Thoughts, Her Voice

Dionysia In the imp: plum, berries and something almost green. This actually smells like Queen of Spades! Wet on skin: red and black fruits with patchouli and a hint of resins. Dry on skin: mmm, I love it! If the plum blossom behaves and the fruits don’t go over-sweet, this looks like it will be a success. For now I smell juicy plum and raspberry with a bite of pomegranate, sweetened by benzoin, with a hint of frankincense. It does remind me of Crypt Queen but it’s not as dark, this is much sweeter. It also reminds me of Blood Phoenix. After a while: noooooo! It can’t be! Surely, there were enough heavy notes in here to stop it coming to this…what could have been a wonderful mix of plum fruit, raspberries, poms, patch and resins has turned to cloying and evil banana on me! Doom blossom, I mean plum blossom, almost always does this and I was hoping the other notes would prevent that from happening, but no! PB has totally pwned this scent and I can’t smell anything else. Plum fruit, maybe, and a bit of raspberry, but where’s the pomegranate and where are those lovely resins? Now this just smells like overripe fruit on me. The scent does sometimes go into a nicer floral plum scent, like Midwinter’s Eve, but I don’t get that pom-raspberry scent any more. The scent fluctuates between sickly plum blossom to a nicer plum and mahogany scent, but can’t decide what it wants to smell like. Verdict: oh plum blossom, why do you hate my skin so much? This would have been so wonderful if it wasn’t for that pesky floral note. Everything else in here was made of win, but plum blossom makes this fail on my skin. The first stage was really nice-when plum fruit was dominant, as well as the other fruits, and the resins, making for a decadent and deep, almost boozy, rich fruit scent. But then Doom Blossom comes over and stomps all over the other notes, completely dominating with that cloying overripe floral scent. The drydown is a bit nicer, when the floral note tones down a touch, but I don’t think I can keep this scent. it’s not my thing, I’m afraid…and I was hoping to love it because there are so few raspberry scents out there. Luckily my decant found a new home. Emoticon rating: : Is it a keeper? Nope. If you like this, try: Horreur Sympathique, Blood Phoenix, Bathsheba, Frumious Bandersnatch, Midwinter’s Eve

Cytherea In the imp: a very pretty sweet orris, powdery and pale. Wet on skin: ahh, now I see the Skinny Dip comparisons! Yes, this does smell like SD! Dry on skin: oh, now it’s even nicer! It’s Skinny Dip mixed with American Cream! This scent takes two Lush scents that I love and combines them fabulously! The orris must be what smells like violet, I can smell lots of vanilla. I have no idea where I’m getting the SD notes of clove and white chocolate, or the AC notes of lavender and sage though. All I know is that I smell them in here. However when I smell again I also get hints of sandalwood, patchouli and kush. After a while: ohh, this is really nice now. It still resembles SD and AC, but now it also bears a resemblance to Kubla Khan, which I love. It seems the champaca note in here is like Kubla’s, in that it doesn’t turn cloying and all-consuming, it stays as a sweet, gentle floral. The scent is a tad fainter now but it’s gorgeous-the vanilla is sublime, the white amber adds a delicate glow, and the darker notes (patch and kush) don’t darken the scent too much, they add a bit of smokiness and ground the scent. The drydown is a gorgeous powdered vanilla-violet scent. Verdict: this smells like a combination of two of my favourite Lush scents: Skinny Dip and American Cream, but of course with that distinctive BPAL feel. The violet-clove-white chocolate scent of Skinny Dip meets the wonderful vanilla-sugary sweetness of AC, supported by notes of sandalwood, champaca and patchouli to add a hint of something exotic, smoky and sexy to the scent. I have no idea how these notes (other than vanilla and orris) can remind me of those Lush scents but they do. I love this scent so much-the champaca doesn’t cloy like it sometimes can, the vanilla and amber are magnificent as usual, the darker notes are subtle but lend depth to the scent, the violet-y scent of orris isn’t too powdery here either. The only disadvantage about this beautiful scent is that it fades too fast and can be too quiet, but that doesn’t stop me from loving it. Feminine and approachable, sweet but not sickly sweet, I need to stock up on this one! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Definitely. If you like this, try: Kubla Khan, Faith, Le Serpent Qui Danse, Florence, Vaskakajja

Licwiglunga In the decant: a soft hemp note infused with lavender and frankincense. Wet on skin: ohh, now I smell the scent of warm dry herbs, mixing with resins. Dry on skin: wonderful! This smells like a beautiful mix of lavender, wild dry herbs warmed by the sun, hemp (the hemp note is reminiscent of Yule, it has a mushy green scent to it), a hint of anise, and golden piercing resins. It does smell a bit like old paper infused with incense and herbs, but to me this smells like a Mediterranean evening. And I love that. A scent of lavender and herbs hanging in the air, and dry wild grasses (the hemp has a lovely grassy scent to it here) and a hint of resinous sap. The anise-frankincense combo also reminds me of the Robotic Scarab, which I love. At times I smell a hint of pom juice. After a while: the dry herbal summer evening scent from before goes down as the hemp really takes centre stage. It seems to be going down that bitter olive route, like what happened with Yule, but in here it’s more bearable. I don’t love it as much as before but I still really like this. The resins are wonderful. The fennel and anise are not turning to all-consuming liquorice. And now there’s some pomegranate adding a hint of sweet red fruit to it all. This is a really unique and complex scent. The drydown is a lot more papery. Now the hemp smells drier and browner, with hints of the herbal notes, those gorgeous resins now burning gently as incense. Verdict: a fascinating fragrance! It starts off with that wonderful scent evocative of golden, balmy August evenings filled with the scent of wild herbs, distant lavender fields, hay and pine and the sound of crickets, it reminds me of a childhood holiday I spent in the south of France. It’s gorgeous and it’s the kind of dry herbal smell I love. Then it changes as the hemp comes out, with it’s papery-pulpy-green scent, mingling with the sweetish scent of pomegranate. And the end stage is back to that dryness, but this time it’s scented with incense and paper, not herbs. I must say that I wish the just-dry stage of this scent, the wonderful herbal scent, lasted longer as it is my favourite stage in this fragrance, but I like this scent overall to get a bottle. a very unique and intriguing perfume! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Yes. If you like this, try: Yule, Robotic Scarab, Scales of Deprivation, Arcana, The Norn’s Farmhouse

The Contract of Theophilius of Adana In the imp: floral? that’s probably dragon’s blood. I also smell dusty paper and incense. Wet on skin: whoa, that’s a lot of dragon’s blood! very lilac-y. I also smell the incense and something woody, as well as parchment. Dry on skin: mmm, if the dragon’s blood behaves this has the potential to be marvellous. The incense here is gorgeous, reminiscent of the frankincense and myrrh of Valentine of Rome, but a bit heavier on the frankincense. There’s also a hint of one of the Egyptian scents to this incense note, either reminiscent of Anubis or Meshkenet. There’s a lot of smoke here, a smell of burning, that’s the brimstone. I smell something green and sharp and bitterly floral, probably the DB (please, please don’t turn to fail on me), as well as hints of dusty paper (like Clio) and sweet benzoin. The red musk is subtle but binds the whole scent together and adds a layer of exotic richness. But that dragon’s blood…it’s being very persistent and trying to take over! After a while: ok, the dragon’s blood is being a lot more prominent here than I was hoping for, but now it smells like a rather lovely mix of red musk, DB and incense. in fact, it smells just like the Cracked Bell with a hint of Judgement (the tarot oil). It’s got less of a papery feel to it now, and more of a brassy scent. It’s also a lot smokier, and much more musky as well. Can’t say I’m crazy about the all powerful DB, but it’s quite nice. Almost perfumey at times, oddly. The more I smell it, the more Cracked Bell-like it seems to become. The drydown is almost indistinguishable from Cracked Bell on me, sweet amber-musky-bloody-incense, but only with extra dragon’s blood (which is a bit bitter here) and none of the vetiver-ish scent I got in CB. But the dragon’s blood is too strong for my likings. Verdict: I was expecting this one to be outright love since I love papery scents, incense scents, and papery scents with incense. sadly, there’s one note in here that has it in for me-dragon’s blood. At first it is a really nice resin-incense scent but the daemonrops resin really wants to disturb the lovely mix of parchment and incense and musk, and finally it wins out and the scent turns sharp, a bit floral and not very nice. It’s ok, but I’d rather the dragon’s blood were quieter and the incense notes more prominent. I like it when it turns into a scent reminiscent of the Cracked Bell, a musky dragon’s blood with smoke and incense, but not enough to keep it. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Not really. I'd prefer it without daemonorops, I think. If you like this, try: Valentine of Rome, Dragon Moon 08, Cracked Bell, Lurid Library, Clio, The Chapel

The Grindhouse In the imp: mmm, Marianne’s spicy incense-y red musk with a bit of vanilla sweetness! Wet on skin: pepper? I smell something smoky and almost peppery now. This reminds me of Trick 1. Dry on skin: crackling toasty smoky spices (almost like cumin now? What on earth?) mingles with pale floral notes, sweet vanilla, and red musk incense. wow, this is quite nice! It’s got an almost savoury spice to it which is a bit strange at first but I quite like it. then the mimosa comes through, surprisingly strong. To me this smells like a cross between Trick 1, Unheavenly City and Marianne. It also reminds me a bit of Hell’s Belle, that spicy musky magnolia scent. After a while: now the spicy peppery smoky scent has mixed with the musk and the scent now has a dry, crumbly feel to it, like an incense powder waiting to be burnt. The powdery scent is enhanced by the iris and pollen-dusted mimosa. There’s that hint of nag champa to the musk, and the magnolia is very strong. I get hardly any clove and rose. The vanilla is soft and seems to by shying away from the floral and dry dusty spiced musk. It’s not bad but I really wanted this scent to have the creamy undertone I get from Unheavenly City and War. Verdict: compared with the wonderfulness that is Marianne, this doesn’t quite cut it. Grindhouse is of course very similar, but there’s something in here I’m not crazy about. The scent overall is too dry and crumbly for me, I was hoping this would be a bit creamy and luscious, like many red musk and floral combinations tend to be, but there’s a champa-like feel to the scent which I’m not keen on. There was a similar scent in Marianne but there were loads of other notes in there making it rich and full, in here the champa-musk is a bit thin, dry, bland even? Like a spicy powder with hints of flower pollen and orris. I sent my decant off to a good home-I like this scent, but not enough to keep it. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Not really. I wish it was less thin and more rounded. If you like this, try: Marianne, War, Hell’s Belle, Hollywood Babylon, Trick 1

Aeronwen In the imp: the greenness of fig and tarragon, a bit of orange and a hint of sweetness. Wet on skin: mmm, herbal tarragon and green fig leaf! Dry on skin: oh, I like this. It reminds me of Carnal, but much nicer and more complex. The fig is a green leafy kind very similar to Eden. The orange is brief and has all but faded. The tarragon is such an intriguing note, greenly herbal and warm but not too savoury, it’s also a bit spicy. It’s not a dry herb either. Underneath, I smell shadowy black musk and myrrh, no amber just yet but I think I can smell a bit of redwood, which has that ‘fresh timber’ scent to it. After a while: oh, this gets so much nicer with time. Now the musk, myrrh and amber really come out and blossom. The fig has lost that green sharpness and has mellowed into a smoother brown fig with a hint of something creamy. And the musk is gorgeous, it smells more like white musk or golden musk here, not black musk. It reminds me of something, maybe Antique Lace or even Morocco? Or possibly Inez without as much sweetness or amber? Or maybe the Emathides? I can’t say other than I love this. It reminds me of Eden a bit more as well, but richer and muskier. It’s a fabulous fig-musk. And it gets more and more musky over time, a wonderful warm skin scent which feels clean yet velvety, with a redwood note which now smells more like sandalwood. This then settles into a soft white fig-touched musk rounded by the resins. It reminds me of the Possets scent Figmalion, but this one has added resin and more pronounced musk. Verdict: I think this may be my new favourite fig scent! at first it starts of very green and earthy, the fig smells sharp and I fear it will be a bit too green and sharp like the fig in Carnal. But then the scent morphs into the most wonderful fig-musk-amber scent ever! Rich and sexy, the fig adds a lighter fruity touch to the dark, sweet resins and deep musk. This is a sexier, darker, naughtier version of Eden. The scent develops a few white musk like nuances at drydown, and the fig note in here is perfect. I love this one and will need a backup before she leaves with the rest of the girls… Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Yes, I need another bottle. this is really unique and wonderful. If you like this, try: Carnal, Strangler Fig, Eden, Inez

And anyone who knows me well will know why I squeed a little when I saw the Lune Noire label

Marianne In the bottle: mmm, the incense-tinged spicy red musk of Scherezade, with a hint of floral. Wet on skin: wow! Patchouli, red musk, incense! almost like nag champa, but better! Dry on skin: now the flowers come out, lightening the scent a bit. I can smell the sweet powdery lotus root, which I love, with a touch of mimosa which smells just like the little yellow pompoms that bloom in the garden every spring. I think there’s also a bit of orchid, and this is an intense rich black orchid to me. Underneath, red musk and patchouli smell rich and dark, spicy and incense-y, and a bit dirty-definitely earthy. The musk is the same as Scherezade’s, like sexed-up nag champa. There’s definitely a hint of headshop to this, and I love it. After a while: the initial dirtiness of the musk and patch tones down, and I’m pleasantly surprised at how pretty the floral notes make it. They add a lighter, gentler touch and contrast beautifully with the muskiness. This is a very two-toned scent, there’s the sweet floral on the top, and the base of dirty incense-laced musk. There’s something almost fruity about the flowers here, maybe it’s the currant, but it’s not a currant-y fruitiness, it’s lighter and more like sugar cane, I think it’s the lotus at work. The scent then turns into a really good nag champa/exotic incense scent, makes me think of a darker take on Mama Ji, actually! Yes, that’s what this reminds me of now, Mama Ji with added musk! And then, the scent morphs again, and it smells a tiny bit like Smut now, but without that disturbing rubbery scent I got from Smut. But the dark, heavy red musk is very similar. And then it turns a tiny bit like Mme, sweeter red musk, but with a drier, crumbly feel to it like the ashes of incense. Verdict: this lady is my middle-namesake scent so I had high hopes for her, and thankfully, this scent doesn’t disappoint! Normally I’m not crazy about nag champa type scents, and this has a distinctly champa-like feel to it, but I love this. I think it’s the richness of the musk and the bright floral aspect that makes it. there’s a nice duality to this scent, the floral notes are soft and pretty, the sweet sugary lotus and orchid and fluffy mimosa are approachable and gentle. But underneath there’s a smutty (and yes it does resemble BPAL Smut) and raunchy dirty darkness, deep patchouli and a spicy, incense-y red musk. This is a fantastic combination. The scent reminds of Scherezade in it’s spiciness, with hints of Mama Ji, but with a more floral slant. I already love this scent but I have a feeling a bit of age is going to make this even more fantastic. I am so glad this scent works on me this well. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Oh yes, and she’s going to be hoarded. If you like this, try: Scherezade, Mme Moriarty, Lust, Mama Ji, Smut, Midnight Kiss, The Grindhouse

Clemence In the bottle: peppery carnation with a patchouli background. Wet on skin: whoa, the patch is heavy here! I can also smell the tea, and it smells like black tea! Dry on skin: biting black pepper, intense and dark patchouli, mixed with a dry spicy tea mixture. Mmm, this is good. It smells like a wonderful chai blend, with a shadowy, dirty undertone. It reminds me a little bit of Spanked without the leather, actually! I can smell hints of carnation and/or clove, and lots of cardamom and pepper. Very exotic and a bit dusty (in a good way). After a while: ah, now the spicy tea has overtaken the patchouli, and this now smells like a darker, spicier, less green and more earthy version of Silk Road. The cardamom is really showing off here, and the tea note is fantastic because it smells like black tea, a bit smoky and without the tangy bite of green tea, not like those scents that have a black tea note that smells too sharp and fresh. The carnation has also gone up a notch, and this at times makes me think of Pink Moon’s evil cousin. The scent then turns to Pink Moon-style carnations served with a cup of black, delicately spiced tea, no milk or sugar. It’s spicy and dry but fringed with the floral carnation note to stop it being too dry. The scent turns drier and dustier over time and it reminds me of a dry mix of spices and tea with a hint of old books to it. Really lovely, though I wish there was a bit more sweetness to it. Verdict: this is a fantastic dark carnation scent with an incredibly genuine tea note to it. Too often black tea notes smell like green tea on me, but not this-this is proper black tea, with chai spices (though no cinnamon). The patch is very, very strong, earthy and dry and dark, but it goes really nicely with the spicy peppery tea. The carnation note is fantastic and I love the way it gradually strengthens with wear. This reminds me of Silk Road meets Pink Moon at times, with added patchouli. Spicy and dirty and lovely. The only thing that would make it perfect though would be a sweet note, or a musk, to smooth the scent out a bit and stop it from smelling too dry, to add some sweetness to it which this scent seems to lack. As carnation-scented ladies go, I greatly prefer Inez, but I will be keeping my bottle of Clemence, that’s for sure. Not sure if I need a second one though…I’ll see how she ages. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Yes. If you like this, try: Silk Road, Alone, Plunder, Pink Moon 07, Mr Jacquel

Agrat Bat Malaht In the bottle: apple, very strong apple covered with caramel and cream. Wet on skin: whoa, this is very heavy on the apple! Now I also smell the honey and a sharp, almost gardenia like floral? Dry on skin: burnt caramel and an apple note that for now smells like sour but authentic apples, but I fear will turn soapy. On top of the caramel apples, a load of honey and cream is poured. It’s quite a yummy scent, but the caramel smells very burnt to me, and there’s a floral scent, possibly the apple blossom’s floral side, which is not agreeing with me at all. Thankfully the cream isn’t sour at all. But where are the amber, teak and musk? All I’m getting are the gourmand notes, and they are turning strange on me. and I don’t smell any resemblance to Glowing Vulva here. After a while: after a moment of ‘oh damn, it’s Sugar Slathered Candy Apple, right down to the soapy apple and cloying toffee’, the smell has calmed. The apple isn’t turning too artificial on me, and the caramel isn’t amping too much, there’s a bit more honey. Now I can smell the skin musk, adding it’s velvety pale powdery scent over the whole scent. But I’m not crazy about the slightly burnt floral scent I get here…it seems to smell a tad soapy. With the caramel, it’s like the whole scent isn’t sitting right on me. It’s like this scent can’t decide whether or not to be foody. Where are the amber and teak? It reminds me a bit of Les Bijoux, but I prefer that one thanks to the peach, resins and rose. The apple blossom in here isn’t really agreeing with me. After a few hours I’m left with something much nicer, a honeyed apple scent softened by a skin musk reminiscent of Tamamo No Mae. I really like this now. Verdict: I had high hopes for this, hoping this would be a bit like Glowing Vulva meets Harikata, not too heavy on the caramel and with the apple blossom being subtle and gentle like it is in Cupid Complaining or Brisingamen. I love the art and the quote on the card she comes with. But this scent failed on me…the apple blossom was warped by my skin into some mutated fruity-floral with burnt and soapy tones to it, the cream and caramel turned heavy and cloying, the amber and teak went into hiding from this chaotic jumble of floral and gourmand. It was dissonant on me. the drydown was nicer, when the skin musk came out and the honey calmed the apple down a bit, but the agreeable drydown takes too long to get to after a couple of hours of evil toffee apples. I’m afraid that this lady does not agree with me at all. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? No, sadly. If you like this, try: Desire, Cupid Complaining to Venus, Verdandi, Les Bijoux, Eisheth Zenunim

Dyan Moon In the bottle: a soft mix of pale musk, roses, gentle blooms and herbs. Wet on skin: ok, it’s gone a bit sour now, and the bay is really showing up. Dry on skin: mmm, now it’s not bad! In fact, the sour fades completely. This is a warm pink rose scent, I can really smell the rose here along with the blue musk, and there are hints of lily, iris, camomile and maybe some sweetness from the mallow. But overall this is a soft pale scent which isn’t too herbal, too floral, and too woody. It’s a sweet rose shining under the moon, mixed with sweet blushing blossoms smoothed by blue musk. It’s incredibly pretty! It reminds me of a younger version of Rose Moon, or Moon Rose, for that matter. After a while: the rose grows stronger and the scent becomes a lovely white rose scent, a bit powdery now thanks to the iris, and for some reason, this scent reminds me a bit of Alice at this point! The rose is almost like Alice, there’s none of the creamy honeyed sweetness, but there is something that, at least on my skin, reminds me of the carnation in Alice. And also the white musky-milky scent. the lily and wisteria are not turning sour at all. I think the blue musk is making all those questionable notes work on me like it did with the lilac in Night Thoughts and the honeysuckle in Long Night Moon. After some time the lovely powdery iris-musk-rose scent then gains a woodsy scent, almost like sandalwood and a bit of bark. I wonder if that’s the chaste tree? Verdict: this is such a gorgeous rose scent! I was wary of buying a backup because a lot of the floral notes here sometimes turn to soap. But in this scent, they didn’t. this is an incredibly beautiful mix of youthful white roses glowing in the moonlight, with a soft whisper of nocturnal flowers and that wonderful ‘night air’ scent from the blue musk. It’s gorgeous and feminine and gentle, ethereal and haunting. It’s a delicate and approachable floral that shimmers in tones of silver and pink. It also turns into a scent a little bit like Alice, but not as creamy or sweet, but the rose here seems similar. I am going to have to track down another bottle because I really love this moon scent more than I thought I would. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Yes! If you like this, try: Rose Moon, Moon Rose, Venus, Sea of Tranquility, Nuit, Long Night Moon

Inez In the bottle: spicy and foody vanilla. Whoever said ‘cookies’ is dead on! Wet on skin: ah, now I smell the carnation and amber stepping out of the spicy vanilla! Dry on skin: ohh, gorgeousness! This smells like the perfect blend of amber, vanilla and carnation! Like a more golden-red Morocco, a gentler Hermia, a spicier Mouse’s Tale, this has elements of some of my favourite BPAL scents in it, but is also fabulous as it is. The vanilla still has a spicy scent to it and also a creamy aspect, but has lost it’s cookie scent. The carnation is strong and red and clove like. The amber is sublime, as usual, and the woods are a perfect background-the cedar is a bit like the one from Aelopile, but not as strong, the sandalwood is more obvious. After a while: after a short moment of ‘oh noes, it’s getting faint…please don’t leave me’, the scent actually amps up more than before, and smells even more beautiful! now the amber, carnation and vanilla musk have become warmer, richer, more rounded, the scent just glows beautifully off the skin. the sandalwood also joins in, and I think there’s a hint of myrrh. This is magnificent. I’d imagine this would go beautifully with L’Estate (the soap, and probably the other inquisition scents). The scent then turns into an ambery vanilla-infused Morocco, that same mix of carnation and sandalwood and musk made golden and sweeter. And then the amber becomes a tad stronger and this turns into a sweet amber carnation which is just irresistible. At times the vanilla and sandalwood comes out and this smells like Underpants with amber…in fact, this may be better than Underpants. Verdict: I love, love, love this one. I think this my new favourite amber-vanilla scent, and I can see it becoming the Snake Charmer of the Grindhouse. It is glowing amber gorgeousness and sweet vanilla cuddliness with spicy carnation and warm woods. It reminds me of Morocco meets Mouse’s Tale meets Underpants, a perfect combination of beautiful notes. The scent is soft but it shines on my skin, radiant and golden-orange-pink like a sunset. It is warm and sweet and sophisticated and comforting and sexy all at once, perfect for all seasons-I love the way it wafts in hot weather, surrounding me in a cloud of sweet amber loveliness, and yet it smells cosy and warm for colder days. It’s hard to pull my nose off my wrist when I wear this…it’s a shame this isn’t GC because I adore it so much, I’m going to have to hoard this scent-two bottles won’t do! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Yes and I need multiples! If you like this, try: Morocco, Mouse’s Long and Sad Tale, Hymn to Proserpine, The Lion, Hermia, Wezwanie/Hold

The Buggre Alle This Bible In the imp: the lovechild of Riding the Goat and the Lurid Library. Wet on skin: whoa, old, ancient leather indeed! I smell oiled woods and dust…smells like a library! Dry on skin: mmm, I like this a lot. It smells like a shadowy version of Aziraphale, a more intense, less musky Lurid Library, with a hint of Dee and Riding the Goat. I smell a slightly oily woodsy scent reminiscent of polished woods, mahogany and maybe cedar. Very much like an old library. I also smell dust, aged paper, crumbly and faded pages, and even a bit of ink. And smoke…soft tobacco and incense smoke absorbed by paper. After a while: ah, now it smells more like the Lurid Library. Less golden and a lot deeper than LL, but now there’s a similar feel of musky incense to this, almost like an undercurrent of black musk, which has hints of the soft angelic musk from Aziraphale, but is a lot more dark, not ethereal and glowing. The dusty paper note is also there, as is the leather which is the ‘aged leather’ note which I prefer to the ‘kinky leather’ note which tends to amp. It is a subtle scent too, like a whisper of incense smoke captured in the pages of an old book. The scent fades into a gentle papery incense and leather scent. Soft, quiet, subtly smoky, and old. Verdict: I love the bookish scents Beth makes, this is what I’d imagine Aziraphale’s most infamous bible to smell like…ancient paper, yellowed and crumbly and dusty, infused with incense, lying on a wooden shelf in a Soho bookshop. Like a darker Lurid Library, or a less incense-heavy Dee, this is a wonderful mix of old paper and fragrant smokes mixed with the perfect leather note forming the worn covers of the bible. The tobacco note is really good here, subtle and sophisticated. I love book scents and anything evocative of paper and parchment, and I love incense, so this is a wonderful combination. I also imagine this would age fantastically. Buggre Alle This was one of my favourite bits in Good Omens, so I am so glad there is a scent of it and that it works so well on me! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Oh yes. If you like this, try: Dee, Lurid Library, Riding the Goat, Aziraphale, Licwiclunga

Nanny Ashtoreth In the bottle: sweetened woody leather, a bit like Krampus and Crowley. Wet on skin: mmm, this is like Loviatar’s leather, sweetened with amber. I also smell wine? Dry on skin: whoa, this is a lot darker and woodier and more leathery than I expected, but I also can smell a rich, dark, red fruit note. That’s definitely the berries, but they smell more like red wine in here. Very dark and boozy. I also smell the leather, which could amp, but for now it’s behaving and it smells smooth and sexy. The woods are strong and deep, definitely polished, I’m thinking mahogany and ebony. The amber sweetens it all, but I don’t smell much in the way of honey or flowers. After a while: ok, now the leather has gone and amped up a lot. As in, eaten every other note that isn’t wood. This is the ‘kinky’ leather note, the one from De Sade and Krampus that, as of late, has been amping and turning oddly burnt on me. It’s doing that now, smelling of smoke and leather, but it’s like charred wood and slightly rubbery leather, and whilst I do like the smell of new shoes, but I was hoping for more of the amber, honey, flowers and berries! Where are they now? Where’s that sweet amber and wine scent from before? The sweet amber does make a comeback after a few hours, when the leather does calm a little. It still smells a bit charred though, and there’s no honey, berries or flowers here. Verdict: I was a little bit disappointed by the Nanny. I was hoping for more of the amber, honey and Middle Eastern flowers (whatever they are, they sounded intriguing) but this is pretty much all leather and woods on me. it seems that leather either works or doesn’t work these days, some leathers smell rich and aged and gorgeous but others amp and smell a little bit burnt…and that’s what the leather here does. It completely smothers the amber, honey, berries and flowers here (which I did smell at first). If I want honeyed leather I’ll stick to Hand of Glory. It does sweeten a bit at drydown, but it winds up smelling almost identical to Loviatar by then, and I think I prefer that one a bit more. I may keep a decant of this to see if age tames the leather, but it’s not a bottle scent. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Not sure. I was hoping for less leather… If you like this, try: Crowley, Loviatar, Krampus, Perversion, De Sade, Hand of Glory

No 93 Engine In the imp: ohhh, sweet gorgeous amber-lemon resinous incense! Wet on skin: the lemon balm and sage pop out, as does the frankincense. Dry on skin: oh yes, this is fabulous! This is one of the most beautiful incense scents ever! The frankincense is rich and gorgeous, and so is the beeswax, which in here smells just like church candles. I also smell other, more mysterious resins in here, a hint of spicy saffron too. The lemon balm adds a sweet gentle lemony scent to it all, but doesn’t get in the way of the glorious resins. The benzoin is beautifully sweet, almost like amber. And there’s a hint of gentle smoke to it all. This smells golden, sacred, magnificent. I think the lack of myrrh makes this lighter and more radiant than most incense scents. After a while: the lemon sweetens even more and the beeswax now gains a honeyed quality. The resins are still as wonderful as before and the scent overall still smells golden, almost solar. The resins now are also very sweet, the benzoin, I think, is that sweet ambery stuff that is also in Jacob’s Ladder and Thalassa, a rich benzoin resin. And the frankincense is wonderful. I just can’t stop sniffing myself, this is so beautiful. Over time it gets sweeter and more honeyed until it turns to a gorgeous light amber-frankincense resin with hints of hyssop and calamus, a soft smokiness like the incenses are smouldering a little, and it’s all topped with a dusting of powdered honey and lemon sugar. I also get that lovely brassy amber scent that I smelt in Robotic Scarab and Aelopile, a metal note that works on me, and possibly a common base for the Steamworks scents? The drydown after a few hours has a woody feel to it, like honeyed resins over gentle smouldering incense woods. It now reminds me of a lighter version of Cairo. Verdict: pretty much every incense/resin heavy scent that Beth does, I adore. She just does them so well. This is yet another olfactory orgasm of resinous love. This doesn't have the heavy note of myrrh, as a result this is a brighter incense scent. golden beeswax mingles with wonderful frankincense, exotic sweet balsams, amber-like benzoin, a touch of saffron and lemon make the scent even more golden and brilliant, the herbs add a drier aspect. It evokes shades of brass and gold without smelling too metallic. It’s the scent of a sacred machine, an engine anointed with holy oils. The mix of balsams and incense then develops honeyed tones and sweetens a bit more, never losing it’s resinous richness. This is a breathtaking scent and I cannot wait to see what a bit of age does to it. I will never, ever get bored of BPAL resin scents, and I can never have too many-this incredible scent is proof of that. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Oh hell yeah. If you like this, try: King Cobra, Heavenly Love and Earthly Love, Cairo, Philosopher in Meditation, Great Cry in Egypt, Ahathoor, Robotic Scarab, Aelopile, Hand of Glory

The Norn’s Farmhouse In the imp: salty herbs. I actually smell tomato here as well?? Wet on skin: still that odd salty tomato and basil smell, but now I smell something reminiscent of the green scent from Allison Gross which I didn’t like. Dry on skin: ooh, unusual, I rather like this now. The bitter green scent has retreated and what I smell now are the dusty woods (mainly cedar or mahogany/oak, reminiscent of the Haunted House and Ventriloquist’s Dummy, right down to that hint of patchouli) and also the ashes, which have a bonfire quality to them. The herbs now are a mix of the slightly soapy grassy green that I’m not keen on (I think that’s the nettle and apple blossom), and a lovely deeper green reminiscent of fresh basil and drier, wild Mediterranean herbs, a scent which I really like, and there’s a spicy, warm feel to it, a hint of ‘kitchen cupboard’, mixed with sun warmed herbs. After a while: oddly, now there’s a sweetness peeking through. It still smells savoury and herbal, a mix of mushy wet greens and dry herbs with a dusty woody background, but there’s a sweetness now, almost like a sweet musk, or a sandalwood note, or something nutty. It’s really pleasant and I love the way the herbal notes are becoming richer and warmer and smelling just like a summer’s evening, I can almost see the golden evening light shining on rural hills and old ruined farms when I smell this. The scent then turns back to it’s slight vegetable-herbal scent from before and now it smells like sun dried tomatoes! Yes, really! It smells like sun dried tomatoes with herbs and basil and a hint of chilli peppers, a little bit of olive oil and something tangy and balsamic which is almost like vinegar, but not as unpleasantly acidic. But it does smell like a kind of home made tomato and pepper pickle, or some kind of salad dressing or appetiser. However at the back, the green scent from before has turned mossy, it reminds me a bit of the Ghastly Garden’s green note. Verdict: this is such an interesting and different scent. I was expecting a cooler herb scent, greyer and ashier, but this to me evokes a farm kitchen in Spain or Italy with the scent of tomatoes, red peppers and herbs and other savoury condiments. It’s a very warm, welcoming scent, but not in that ‘sweet gourmand’ way, more like golden light pouring into a kitchen full of dried herbs and vegetables waiting to be made into a delicious dinner. I also smell wooden floorboards and ceilings, a hint of the dust from the attic above, and some greenery from outside. This scent fascinates me…not enough to get a bottle (I can’t get over how tomato-like it smells sometimes, and the green note borders on soapy) but I’ll keep my decant. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? I’ll keep it for it’s uniqueness and the images it evokes. If you like this, try: Allison Gross, Forbidding Foyer, Carfax Abbey, Licwiclunga, Ghastly Garden

The East In the imp: a soft herbal-floral scent. Wet on skin: mmm, this is nice. Not much mint, but I can smell thyme and currant and freesia. Dry on skin: this is such a pretty scent! it smells just like fairy flowers and wild herbs, just like I’d imagine the winds from beyond the Wall to smell. I can smell a fresh thyme (not a dry one but a slightly dewy thyme) mingling with tart redcurrant, and also some of the flowers, the freesia and passion flower being most obvious. No jasmine tea yet. The scent is very light and airy. After a while: now this reminds me of Glasgow, for some reason. There are no common notes in the two scents but there’s a similar floral-green-berry scent and a similar breezy clean feel to them both. Maybe there’s an ozone note to this as this along with the fruity notes reminds me of Shivering Boy, oddly enough. There’s something here reminiscent of the vineyard scent in there. Now this scent is a bit less fruity and a bit more floral-green, the currant still hangs around but isn’t as rich and round as the one in Fairy Wine or Anactoria. And the floral notes, though pretty, aren’t as lovely and multifaceted as before, they smell a bit plainer now, and are turning just a tad soapy. Though I do smell some Chinese tea here (not jasmine o’ doom!) which is nice, but I was hoping for more. The scent seems to fade fast as well, leaving just a flat and slightly soapy floral behind. Verdict: I had high hopes for this because I loved the description of the East in the book, so evocative. And the note list looked perfect for the concept. And whilst I like this, on my skin there seems to be something missing…it’s not as perfect as I hoped. However, it’s a very pleasant scent and one where the jasmine seems to work. I really like the first 30 minutes of wear, when it smells like breezes carrying the scents of wet herbs and currants and enchanted flowers, very airy and soft. The scent seems to gain a hint of ozone or something clean and smooth as it dries down, but then it loses the initial richness and many dimensions it had when just applied…something in here smells a little bit flat to me, and then it turns just a tad soapy. I was hoping for more from the redcurrant here. It’s nice but not a keeper…I think I’ll stick with Fairy Market and Fairy Wine for scents that evoke the world Beyond the Wall. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Not really. If you like this, try: Glasgow, Fairy Wine, Shivering Boy

Jasmine Cottage In the imp: a very green grassy and sharp floral. This has the potential to totally soap/sour on me. Wet on skin: ack, sour florals and bitter greenery! Dry on skin: soapy flowers and bitter, acid greenery. This is no good on me at all. It reminds me of Her Voice and the drydown of the Passionate Shepherd, also a bit of One to Tie, and of course, this has a jasmine note that seems to be turning bad on me. It’s got a hint of that florist shop scent, but overall this is a mix of bitter soap that I really dislike. I’m not sure if it’s the jasmine, heather, or wildflowers doing this, maybe a mix of several things. But it’s pretty much failing on my skin. After a while: this does seem to fade a bit but it’s still florals and crushed bitter weeds on my skin. The green aspect isn’t so bad now. I do smell quite a strong dandelion note here-maybe that’s one of the wildflowers? But it actually really smells of dandelion and jasmine for now. And there’s a floral note here which is really soapy. This actually reminds me of one of the green-floral Tarot scents. And then, poof, it completely vanishes. No more flowers, grass, dandelions, soapiness…next to nothing, actually. Verdict: this was just a floral mess on my skin. Some florals I can do, but not this one…it seems the flowery scents with strong green stem/grass/florist shop nuances tend to turn really bitter, soapy, acrid and wilted once they hit my skin. This one does this. Maybe it’s the jasmine, maybe it’s the wildflowers, but this smells harsh and like an unfriendly tangle of weeds to me. it’s a shame because I love the smell of fresh flowers and greenery in nature. The scent also fades incredibly fast-in two hours, the scent pretty much disappears. Not my thing. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? No. If you like this, try: Her Voice, Eos, The Passionate Shepherd, New Orleans, One to Tie, The East

Pepper In the imp: very similar to Hermia, a pink pepper floral scent. I think I smell rose and orange. Wet on skin: I have no idea why the blood orange/bergamot smells of grapefruit now, but it does. So now it’s a peppered citrus, like Teenage Cannibal. Dry on skin: mmm, I really like this. Now I can smell a soft gardenia or tuberose note. This is a wonderful mix of floral and fruit notes with a feisty kick of spice. I smell the orange and the white flowers with the piquant notes of pepper and ginger. I can also smell a hint of pine resin and maybe berries too. Not much rose or geranium for now, I can’t smell much vanilla or honey either, but this seems like a less candied version of Teenage Cannibal to me, with a hint of Screeching Parrot and Biggercritters. The scent also makes me think of a more youthful Lucy Westenra. After a while: the citrus and pepper have toned down a little, now I smell more of the gardenia and now, the vanilla. This is still spicy but it’s more of a gentle floral at this point, with a touch of lovely blood orange to it. The pine resin adds something almost smoky to it all. The spices gradually fade to reveal a gentle, feminine floral scent, gardenia and tuberose sweetened by vanilla and a hint of honey, with a little bit of berry and orange adding some tartness. Now it reminds me of Mad Kate, but a little bit less floral. Verdict: I really like this youthful, spicy citrus-floral. There’s a lovely traditional flowery scent to it but it smells fresh and lively, and the spices and citrus notes add something gutsy and confident to the scent. The pink pepper is wonderful, of course, as is the blood orange which seems to smell a bit like grapefruit here. The scent seems like a very good representation of the character-this is a girly floral scent you don’t want to mess with. By the end the sweeter notes come out, the vanilla and honey mingle with the gardenia and it smells a bit fainter, less punchy and spicy but very pretty. I’m not sure if it’s a favourite though because my skins seems to eat this up, and there are other rose-orange and pink pepper scents I prefer, but it’s a really lovely blend of different notes that work really well together, and it’s a fabulous scented interpretation of one of my favourite Good Omens characters. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Definitely the decant. Need to decide whether or not it’s a bottle scent, but I really like this one. If you like this, try: Lovestruck Teenage Cannibal, Hermia, Lucy Westenra, MB Biggercritters, Screeching Parrot, Alice, Mad Kate

The Ifrit In the imp: soft powdery sweet musk with a hint of spice. A bit like Morocco, but redder. Wet on skin: interesting. It smells soft and powdery with hints of cinnamon, musk and DB. Dry on skin: mmm, I like this. It reminds me somewhat of the Darkswan soap, Egyptian Dragon, which I love the smell of. It’s a powdery sweet spice with a pleasant dragon’s blood note and a hint of deep red musk and tobacco underneath. The sand note seems to be more of a sweet golden dust, dry and powdery but really nice, almost reminiscent of Morocco’s sweet spicy musk. The spices are incredibly subtle, cinnamon is there but I can’t smell much pepper or ginger. After a while: ah, now this gets a little spicier, a little bit warmer, a bit more fiery. It’s still that gentle sandy powdery musk, warm and golden-pink like dunes in the sunset. But now I can smell more of the ginger and just a hint of pepper. The dragon’s blood seems to be the kind from the likes of Red Moon that agrees with my skin. This is a lovely warm desert scent, dry and dusty and exotic. This to me is the more masculine (but not too masculine) version of Bilquis. The scent then goes back to it’s soft, dusty musk scent, almost ethereal, like a wisp of sand caught in the wind, with a spicy warmth behind it. Verdict: this one surprised me, pleasantly. I was expecting something a lot more fiery, spicy and desert-y, but what I got is a gentle powdery spicy musk with a red undertone. I was very intrigued by the sand note, and it’s really nice, dusty and powdery and dry as expected. Different to the scent of airy heat hazes radiating from rocks and desert breezes from Ozymandias, this is powdery and crumbly, almost like ash from incense, still fragrant. The spices are gentle, cinnamon being strongest, and the red musk is the soft kind, not the raunchy red musk. It almost has a Morocco-ish feel to it at times. I was very pleased by the dragon’s blood though, it’s not turning to floral of doom/red crayons on me like usual. It just adds a dry redness to the whole scent. Definitely a keeper and it’s very wearable, maybe a little too soft, maybe could do with a bit more bite and heat to it, but I really love it all the same, as it evokes the colours of a desert sunset. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Yes! So glad to have a dragon’s blood scent work on me. If you like this, try: Morocco, Ozymandias, Red Moon, Vampire from Planet X, Bilquis, Plunder, Mr Jacquel

The Antikythera Mechanism In the imp: mmm, like Glowing Vulva, but with vanilla instead of amber! Creamy teak and smoke! The oil is the most intense shade of crimson-maroon I’ve seen. Wet on skin: sweet vanilla against deep woods and tobacco. Dry on skin: oh yeah, that’s the stuff! Very similar to Glowing Vulva, the teak and creamy vanilla notes are similar, but this is darker, a bit less creamy, and with a bit more wood and also some tobacco adding a smoky richness. The vanilla is sweet and almost buttercreamy but not cloying or overly gourmand. The teak is a deep dark wood with a hint of patchouli-like earthiness to it. The oak is a paler, slightly more barky/green wood. This to me is a bit like Haloes as well, slightly less sweet though. The tobacco, for now at least, is perfectly smoky but not burnt-smelling like in Black Lace. After a while: the vanilla wood scent this has wafts like crazy, and I love it! it smells more vanilla-y at a distance, when close up I smell more of the woods, especially the greenish oak note. The tobacco here is really lovely, I think it’s like the one in Pinched, really smooth and smoky and rich, not too masculine. It really reminds me of elements of Haloes and Vulva at times, with a hint of Pinched. And dare I say this is a more mature version of Underpants? Verdict: this is, of course, so wonderful. I had high hopes since I love the idea of scent named after this remarkable contraption built far ahead of its time, and it smells fantastic. This is the lovechild of Underpants and Glowing Vulva with a bit of Haloes thrown in. It’s got the terrific teak note I loved from Vulva, and a gorgeous rich vanilla which is a cross between creamy and gourmand and rich and sensual. The tobacco in here is just right-smoky and smooth, and the oak adds a lighter wood aspect. This is what I was hoping to smell in Black Lace and Tombstone, it’s a grown up woodsy vanilla with a hint of the richness of fine chocolate to it (but it doesn’t smell like chocolate). I adore this one and I’m so glad I went for a bottle straight away! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Oh hell yeah. If you like this, try: Haloes, Glowing Vulva, Velvet, Black Lace, Tombstone

The Robotic Scarab In the bottle: a sweet smooth slightly metallic and spicy scent, very pleasant! Wet on skin: oh, this is lovely! Spicy and sweet and smooth resin. Dry on skin: this is gorgeous! Really gorgeous. I can’t say exactly what I’m smelling because it’s not obviously metallic. It’s not obviously leathery. It’s not obviously anise-y and not obviously frankincense-y either. It’s like a mix of all of those but also a scent that isn’t those at all. Not very helpful description huh? All I know is that it smells warm, sweet, smooth, fruity (where’s that coming from?), a bit creamy (ditto!), I do get hints of the perfumey notes I come to expect from metal scents but they are not as edgy here. It reminds me very slightly of Aelopile for a moment, even though the scents share no notes. The frankincense is a smooth golden resin, not a smoky incense. the leather is very discreet, almost nonexistent. And the anise doesn’t show up much either. But I love this. After a while: the metal notes get a bit more obvious, but they are really nice. Not as electric and biting as in Phoenix Steamworks, but there’s a nice tangy cool scent here. The frankincense is really calming the metal notes down (maybe the leather is too?) and I still smell that lovely smooth sweet lovely scent that I can’t put my finger on, but I adore. Maybe it’s the lubricating oils? If so, they smell not like mechanical oils like I expected, but like smooth sweet resins, amber and herbal oils, they smell golden and soothing. At this point I get a hint of that lovely drydown from Aelopile, that golden resin scent. Verdict: out of all the metallic scents I’ve tried so far, this is my absolute favourite! It’s not at all what I expected, but I adore it…it’s even better than what I expected. I bought a bottle unsniffed because I just couldn’t resist the combination of ancient Egypt with steampunk. And I’m so glad I did, despite this containing two questionable notes (anise and metal). This smells wonderful, full of frankincense and spice and warmth, an unexpected sweetness and a metal note that doesn’t set my teeth on edge, but smells realistic enough and very wearable. It’s actually quite hard to describe this scent except to say that it doesn’t smell blatantly like it’s notes, and I happen to adore it. A unisex scent perfect for any season, the perfect fusion of ancient and modern. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Of course. If you like this, try: Phoenix Steamworks, Aelopile, Mechanical Phoenix, Khephra, No 93 Engine

Dragon Moon 08 In the bottle: lavender, sage, green pine and herbs and something that may or may not turn to soap. Wet on skin: now I smell the green sappy scent of galbanum mixing with grass, sage and frankincense. Dry on skin: not bad! There is a lot of dragon’s blood here, the kind that isn’t so agreeable on my skin, but there are lots of other lovely things here as well. overall, the scent is very green and red, green from the herbs and grass notes, red from the DB, with flashes of gold from the frankincense. I smell hints of lavender and magnolia, but it seems to me that the dragon’s blood seems to be amping and turning a bit soapy…please no, I want my beloved resins and herbs, not DB…but let’s see what happens. After a while: no, no, no! dragon’s blood reared up, amped up and soaped out completely! It’s taken over the scent! all I can smell now is DB, not the lovely dragon’s blood I liked in Red Moon and Vampire from Planet X, but the DB that smells like soapy lilacs and crayons on me. The magnolia note makes it even soapier, and I can’t smell any of my beloved frankincense, no more herbs, just a hint of grass, but overwhelming dragon’s blood. it is a bit nicer than the old Dragon Moon though. The soapy DB lingers for ages until finally I get a hint of something like dry grass and sandalwood. Verdict: Dragon Moon, you disappoint me again, sadly…I wasn’t keen on the last version. I was hoping this would be much nicer because of the resins and herbs. But sadly, the dragon’s blood in here is much too strong (which isn’t surprising, it’s a dragon scent after all) and, after a not bad start, this dragon goes a little crazy and completely obliterates all traces of the herbs and other resins (I was especially saddened when it trampled over my beloved frankincense) and turns this scent to red soap! So for the rest of the scent’s duration, all I smell here is floral dragon’s blood, and not much else. How I wish I could have got the wonderful resins everyone else seemed to get! Thankfully I managed to find a new home for my bottle. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? No, because this dragon’s blood hates me. If you like this, try: Dragon Moon 06, anything from Ars Draconis, Serpent’s Kiss, Bat’s Blood Resurrected, The Emperor, Allison Gross

MVJBA Spring Training 08 In the imp: caramel. Butterscotch and toffee with nuts. Very similar to Mitzvah. Wet on skin: mmm, delicious butterscotch. Very sugary but not too strong. Dry on skin: huh? It’s gone quiet on me, oddly. All I can smell is sugar and butter, but not the strong nutty caramel from before. Just a soft golden butterscotch glaze. I can’t smell peanuts or popcorn in here, just a very agreeable caramel. In fact, this smells EXACTLY like Werthers Originals! And I mean, spot on! I do get a slight hint of the coffee scent some people talk about, and the similarity to Misk U, but it’s mainly English toffee/butterscotch on me. And there’s nothing burnt or overpowering to this caramel. After a while: oh, this gets better. It still smells like Werthers or traditional English toffee, but now I smell something to it that reminds me of being in an Italian ice cream parlour. And I love that smell, brings back so many holiday memories…it’s a mix of coffee and chocolate and cream and vanilla and nuts and caramel, it smells inviting and delicious. Urge to nibble wrist rising, rising, rising… Verdict: I thought this would be far too cloying. Toffee, caramel, popcorn and peanuts? I thought this would be way too cavity-inducing and sickly for me. but this is fast becoming my favourite foody. Finally, a BPAL pure caramel I can wear! This reminds me of two of my favourite things-Werthers Originals, and holidays in Italy because it smells just like gelato and ice cream parlours with coffee. I don’t smell peanuts or popcorn here, actually, just a hint of nuts with brown sugar and butterscotch. And despite this being incredibly gourmand, it’s still very subtle, much more subtle than Misk U, and not cloying at all. It smells delicious alone, but I bet it would be lovely layered, like a caramel sauce poured on a favourite dessert, this would sweeten up any scent really nicely. This is what I was hoping to get from Mitzvah and Gluttony, all the caramels really. I’m glad I have a bottle. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? So glad I have a bottle. If you like this, try: Miskatonic University, Gluttony, Cockaigne, Arrival at the Sabbath, Midway, Gula bath oil