PurringPulsar

In the bottle: oh dear…under a delectable honeyed vanilla is the dreaded 'cat pee' blackberry… Wet on skin: oh no, this smells suspiciously close to cat pee… Dry on skin: ok, this is heartbreaking. It smells like the Oblation, and the Oblation was horrid on me. I was hoping that the blackberry leaf wouldn't smell like blackberry fruit, but in here it does, and it's the blackberry note that smells like my kitty's marked his territory on me. Normally I adore honey, but I notice that when mixed with blackberry, it tends to make the urine-like smell stronger. (The only time it doesn't is in Faiza.) and there's a slightly rubbery undertone to the honeyed-blackberry too. I smell pleasant vanilla sweetness, and musk too, and yes it does remind me of O, but I just can't get over how this one smells like cat pee *sobs* After a while: still smells like naughty kitty on me, sadly. The honeyed vanilla musk, which is really lovely and I wish it could stand out more, is a tad stronger, but that blackberry underneath is still taunting me with that 'tomcat-marked bramble' smell I got in the likes of Monster Bait Closet, Montresor and Agony of Heartache. It still reminds me of the Oblation but I think, if I was to choose a preference, I'd choose this one. Ok, now this is even more heartbreaking…because it smells really nice. After a moment of such strong cat pee blackberry, which I thought would never end, now that has faded and I get a gorgeous honeyed vanilla musk. There's a hint of fruitiness but it now smells like proper berries. And I think I smell a hint of spice. Dammit, this smells good. It reminds me of the honey-musk in Freak Show, but sweeter and lighter. This smells approachable. If this scent was all about this drydown and didn't start of smelling of blackberry, I'd be all over this. The other disadvantage is that at this point, the smell is a little bit faint. But it is so lovely…I can see why other people love this so much. It reminds me of a 'blackberry vanilla musk' scent now, it is soft and sweet but also ethereal, with a hint of something purple and bright, like Una's eyes. Verdict: at first, when I tried this, I was so sad. I know that Lady Una has the ears of a cat, but that's about as cat-like as I expected her to be. As with most scents with blackberry, this smells like kitty sprayed all over my wrist. It’s the same honey-blackberry combination as the Oblation, and it just doesn’t work on me. And it smells like this for at least an hour. I love Lady Una’s character so this was very painful…but then, she changed into something so gorgeous that it was almost like the cat pee stage was a distant memory. I've never had a blend veer from something nasty-smelling to something truly beautiful like this before. The drydown is a soft, gentle, sweet and welcoming vanilla-musk edged with honey and made purple with a touch of blackberry, which now smells like berries. it’s such a gorgeous soft vanilla-honey-berry musk with a hint of something magical and ethereal to it. If this was all I got in the scent I would have gone straight for a bottle. But sadly, the catty stage of this scent is too much for me so I don’t think I’ll get a bottle. Emoticon rating: (just-applied stage) and (drydown) Is it a keeper? no, sadly…despite that delightful drydown. If you like this, try: The Oblation, O, Faiza, Monster Bait Closet, Montresor, Eat Me, Dana O'Shee

Ambergris accord, benzoin, teakwood, frankincense, myrrh, Mysore sandalwood, and incense. Heavenly Love and Earthly Love In the imp: subtle but gorgeous frankincense, like the Pit and the Pendulum, but gentler. Wet on skin: glorious frankincense, warm myrrh, and sandalwood. Dry on skin: oh, this is so beautiful. I love incense so much, so this is a hit on me. It reminds me of Midnight Mass and the Pit and the Pendulum, and yet it is also different. It is subtler, more like the scent of incense that lingers in a church, not like smelling the resins directly. There's frankincense here, golden and high pitched, with the lower notes of myrrh and sweeter benzoin, gorgeous sandalwood and teak add a nice woodsy undertone (it's not as woody as Cathedral though), and I think I smell a hint of salty ambergris. But for now it's mainly frankincense and myrrh and I swear there's beeswax here too. After a while: yes, this is very subtle and seems to be drawing itself in (Pit and the Pendulum does the same thing), not giving off much throw, but I still can't get over how beautiful this is. Now it's a little sweeter thanks to the benzoin, and I smell more of the woods and myrrh. Now it reminds me of the subtle balsamic resins of Cobalt's Seduce La Mente (but without the amber and vanilla). It's the kind of scent that makes me want to nuzzle my nose into my wrist and sniff it all the time. a soft crumbly resin which feels soothing and sacred. This gets softer, even more nicely mixed, and sweeter over time. the myrrh in here is fabulous, and I get amber-like nuances to the resin at the end. Verdict: oh yes, this is heavenly and this is love. Probably the most gorgeous incense scent in BPAL, or at least a strong contender for that place. Subtler and softer than Midnight Mass, more golden than Pit and Pendulum, more nuanced than Penitence. This really is the ultimate church incense scent…in fact, this scent is very reminiscent of the smell of incense that hung in the air inside a church I visited in Sicily this summer. I think the hint of ambergris, slightly evocative of salty sea air, enhances that memory. The woods add a nice ‘earthly’ touch to ground the ethereal wisps of scented smoke, and the smoky myrrh-benzoin drydown is like a nose-magnet, I can’t pull my nose away from my wrist. As well as the classic BPAL incense scents, this also reminds me of Arcana's Holy Terror and Cobalt's Seduce La Mente. Oh yes, did I say that I love this? I’ll need to find a way to get a bottle of this asap, because a half-decant won’t do! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Yes and I want a bottle. Ohhhhh... If you like this, try: Midnight Mass, Penitence, Pit and the Pendulum, Cathedral, King Cobra

Chanukkiyah In the imp: caramelised jam, very much like Crumpet Rebellion. Wet on skin: this smells like Sugar Skull 07 now, right down to the slight hint of manly perfume I got from that scent! Dry on skin: it still smells strongly of treacle, and there's still a hint of that odd perfumey note, but now I think I smell the fruits. I think it's the pomegranate I smell here, but it's not the sweet, rich pom from Fruit of Paradise, but something much more bitter and sharp. There's also something green and bitter-maybe the olive oil? It doesn't smell like good olive oil though. This one is really odd on my skin, a bit muddled…the sugary note is somewhere between La Befana and Sugar Skull, but there's a scent of aftershave and a strange bitter fruit note that almost clashes. Maybe this will settle down after a while. I can't smell the beeswax or amber. After a while: ok, now this is coming together a little bit more coherently. Now I smell the fig and pom, and they remind me of the fruits in Milk Moon 07, but whilst I loved MM07 and what the fig and pom did to that, in here they seem to clash with the sugar a little. I smell a bit more of the jam now and the smoky treacle becomes less aftershave-like and more like caramel (very strong caramel, mind you) but the fruit notes are too sharp and distracting. I was hoping this would settle nicely but that sharp bitterness with the cloying treacle smell lasts for too long. Only after a few hours do I get the beeswax. Verdict: this one really let me down…and I got a big bottle and everything because it sounded so good! Fried jam doughnuts! Amber! Beeswax! Fig and pomegranate! The only things that could have gone wrong were the olive oil or maybe the doughnut note turning too caramelised. This did indeed turn very caramelised, but it also turned downright weird on me! A scent like masculine perfume or aftershave came out, and a very bitter note also cut through the thick, sticky sweetness…a note reminiscent of bitter pomegranate ‘skin’ (not juice) or rancid olive oil. I would have probably found the scent a little cloying but definitely agreeable were it not for this annoying bitter note which made the scent a little dissonant. I wanted more beeswax and amber. Oh well, at least I managed to sell my bottle but this one was quite a heartbreaker on me. I wish it even remotely smelt like Eat Me on me! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? no. If you like this, try: La Befana, Sugar Skull, Milk Moon 07, Red Lantern, Knave of Hearts, Arrival at the Sabbath

Mutable Fire: the essence of striving. Sage, clove, dandelion, balm of gilead, fig, and chamomile. Sagittarius In the imp: smooth herbs and fig with a balmy softness. Wet on skin: the dandelion blooms on my skin, backed by fig and sage. Dry on skin: this one is lovely! I was put off dandelion by One to Tie but I love this. It's mainly dandelion, for sure, but the slightly bitter scent of this weed is smoothed out by sweeter, softer notes, including one of the loveliest fig notes I've smelt in BPAL. It's like the sweet sticky brown fig in Strangler Fig, a sweet dry earthy fruit. I also smell the sage and the camomile, warm gentle herbs, and the clove is probably what adds that lovely sweet warmth to the scent, that hint of spice. This is a mellow scent of summer. After a while: something in here, probably the dandelion, threatens to turn to soap. But apart from that, this is a very pretty scent-I still smell the clove and fig and camomile. It also reminds me a little bit of Virgo at this point, a similar green-floral feel, but warmer and less earthy. It's outdoorsy and carefree. The scent veers between soapy dandelion to glorious spiced fig with herbal nuances-now it's at it's figgy stage. There's something smooth and balmy over the whole scent. After a while this smells grassy, like One to Tie, but sweeter and smoother, there's none of that bitter sharpness, it smells a little bit creamy as well…maybe the clove note is slightly creamy. Sadly this scent doesn't last very long on me-about 4 hours later and only a faint trace of herbal sweetness remains. Verdict: this is a really nice scent, especially at the beginning, when it’s a gorgeous spicy-herbal fig scent I love the fig note in here, it smells like dried figs, all sweet and mushy and brown as opposed to the sharper green fig note in most BPALs. I think the creamy clove enhances it a bit too. It’s warm and inviting and summery, especially with that hint of dandelion. This note, sadly, does make this turn a bit soapy at drydown, which is a shame…and the scent fades away fast. But even so, this is such a unique fragrance and one of the nicest fig scents. I’d love to see more scents with this fig note. But when it comes to dandelion, I much prefer Fairy Wine to this. I’ll have to see if my mum, a Sag, likes this…I don’t think it’s her style of scent (she’s more of a Stella McCartney person), but you never know! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? yes-one bottle. If you like this, try: One To Tie, Roadhouse, Strangler Fig, Hetairae, Virgo 07, Fairy Wine

Diwali In the bottle: sweet mango and flowers with a hint of coconut. Wet on skin: mmm, now I smell the woods and spices! Dry on skin: now the wood smells like incense, it's smoky! This is really beautiful, complex and interesting. I can smell all sorts of things here-flowers, fruit, spices, woods, incense, even a hint of something creamy. I smell a gorgeous jasmine note, not bitter or sharp at all, but beautiful and bright, along with the sweet mango, and also some delicious spices. There's coconut and almond milk to add a slightly gourmand touch (but this isn't a foody scent) and I also smell the drier sweetness of tamarind and raisins, the sweet powdery lightness of lotus root, and a fabulous incense. It smells like aromatic woods gently smouldering over a table of offerings. After a while: my oh my, this gets even better. There's a wonderful, shining floral note at the heart of this-it's jasmine, but like no jasmine I know of from BPAL. This one is heady but not sharp, this one is sweet and glorious, sweetened by the mango, I think. All around I smell the spices and incense and dried fruits. This is so unique and everything works seamlessly. The floral note, which was singing on my skin, now quietens but doesn't go away. I think now I smell more of the lotus and maybe rice flower, as well as the woodsy notes, which are rich, dry, a little bit smoky but not as much as before. I still smell spices and mango here too, but I think there's a bit more of a nutty smell now from the cashew, almond and coconut. It's still beautiful and I love the way it morphs and how all the notes play together. The nutty smell increases over time, and the woods smell now like soft incense ashes, along with that glorious floral background. The smoke returns at the very end with hints of nuts and creamy flowers and woods. Verdict: this is one of the most stunning scents in the Yule collection. It’s so unique, so complex, so beautiful, festive in a totally different way to the other Yule scents. it’s a mix of all sorts of scents from fruity mango to offertory flowers, one of the most gorgeous woodsy incense notes ever, touches of spices and nuts…and everything blends wonderfully together in a scent which is both colourful and joyful yet also feels sacred and luminous. There’s a lot going on here but there’s also a harmony to it so nothing clashes and the morphs aren’t dramatic. The jasmine note here is one of the nicest in BPAL and that incense note is fantastic in the way that it smells like it’s smouldering but not burning, and I can also smell the woods themselves. There’s nothing quite like this in BPAL, and I need another bottle! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Yes! This is magnificent! If you like this, try: The Dodo, Khajuraho, Chintamani Dhupa, Kubla Khan, Hungry Ghost Moon, The Masque

November In the imp: the petitgrain-leaves cologne of October, but with a chilly pine/fir note. Wet on skin: oh, now I smell a gorgeous icy note like Ice Queen creeping in! Dry on skin: mmm, this is nice. This is the offspring of Talvikuu and October. I smell that crisp 'masculine cologne' from October, with its hints of petitgrain, citrus, moss and woodsy leafy notes. But this time it's chilled with the crisp, cold, ice note from Talvikuu (it's less feminine-smelling than Ice Queen), with it's nuances of fir and birch and that frozen, crystalline, white musk note. The cologne note smells more like fallen leaves in here. Or green leaves trapped by ice. After a while: now this smells sweeter, like a sprinkling of white sugar over the crisp snow. I don’t smell the leaves as much now, hints of them, but the snow note is much stronger. it's not the Skadi/Snow Moon note, more like the note from Cloister Graveyard, Talvikuu and Darkling Thrush, a less slushy, more frosty note. I smell a hint of cucumber to it, as well as a lovely soft sweetness, and frozen evergreen notes. Over time I smell a bit more of the leaves, they smell like dry leaves now with a little bit of autumn smoke (and is that a hint of vetiver I smell?), but with a frosty coating. After a few hours, the snow melts, and I'm left with a dry leafy smell which is much more true than the leaves in October, a hint of tree bark and dry moss, and just a hint of crisp winter air and pine needles. Verdict: October disappointed me but I really like this. It has a similar autumn leaf scent to it but unlike October, this is less cologne-y. And it also has that fantastic ice/snow note that Beth does so well. It smells like the gorgeous cool wet slushy note from Talvikuu over autumn leaves…since most snow scents tend to have an evergreen feel, it’s nice to see a scent that evokes winter in a deciduous forest. The snow gets sweeter before melting away to reveal dry autumn leaves and tree bark. Gorgeous and evocative, I will keep my decant but I’m not sure if I prefer this to the likes of Ice Queen, Snow Flakes or Nuclear Winter, to see if this is worth getting a bottle of. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? maybe-I need to compare this with other ice/snow blends, not sure if it's a favourite. If you like this, try: Kumari Kandam, Death of the Gravedigger, Cloister Graveyard in the Snow, October, Darkling Thrush, Snow Flakes

The Fruit of Paradise In the imp: a gorgeous sweet pomegranate scent. A bit tangy but delightfully sugared. Wet on skin: it gets a little tangier now and a little bit more like the Pomegranate SN. Dry on skin: spiced pomegranate juice! This is gorgeous! It smells a bit like the SN, but a lot better-this is an improvement, an enhancement of single note pomegranate. It doesn't have the candle-like smell that I got from the SN and Swank, it does have a hint of bitterness though. It's got a lovely depth to it too, a deep red depth. Overall, this smells like what mulled wine would be like if the wine were replaced with pomegranate juice. I smell cloves in here, I think, maybe some other spices too but definitely clove. It's a very festive scent. After a while: oh my, this gets better. Now that sharp bitterness mellows out completely and the scent goes into a rich, sweet, dark phase of sweet pomegranate, deep and garnet-red in tone, enhanced with spices and possibly a hint of a sweet resin. Now it smells like a darker, less golden version of Hymn to Proserpine. This is even more beautiful now…velvety isn't a word I'd use to describe crisp sparkling pomegranate, but this is exactly what this scent is. This gets even darker and smoother and warmer with time, it's spicy nuances coming out a bit more. There's something to it that's like a resin, but it's not the golden, shining amber of HtP, I think this one might be a myrrh or opoponax note. Definitely evocative of the underworld now. It gets to a gorgeously purple-red scent after a while, not fake or cloying though, but quite sophisticated. There may be a hint of musk to it, keeping the fruit anchored. Verdict: this is everything I hoped to get from the Pomegranate SN, and then some. I was a little disappointed when the SN smelt a little too sharp and then turned vaguely candle-like on me. But this is perfect pomegranate. It’s deep, rich red pomegranate with a wine-like quality to it, a slight bite of bitterness and a dark sweetness, juicy and fruity but shadowy too. I also get a wonderful undertone of something supporting the pomegranate that I can’t put my finger on, but I think it’s a mix of clove-like spices, possibly with resins and maybe even musk? This is like the gorgeous pom in note in Hymn to Proserpine without the golden amber sweetness. This is definitely the fruit of the underworld…and boy, what delicious and tempting fruit this is. A great scent to wear alone or layered with other scents. I need at least two bottles. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? yes and I need more! If you like this, try: Hymn to Proserpine, Persephone, Mme Moriarty, Swank, Haloa 07

Angeronalia In the imp: peach! The nectarine note really pops out here, with a hint of floral. Wet on skin: peach, flowers and patchouli, like the Ecstasy of True Love…but this one is a bit brighter and spicier. Dry on skin: now the blood orange bursts onto the scene! Wow, this is such a vivacious, optimistic scent! It's this year's Sol Invictus, I think. The gardenia in here doesn't turn to evil on me, this is a creamy white flower boosted by what could be the olive blossom. I smell something almost peppery to it, but no strong lemongrass. The blood orange note is fantastic as usual, but I'm getting lots of gorgeous sweet nectarine here, so overall this smells like what I'd imagine peach blossom to smell like, with a hint of spicy orange, and an earthy patchouli base. I don't get much honey. After a while: this reminds me of the Ecstasy of True Love with more floral notes, and more citrus. It's brighter and sunnier than EoTL, the patchouli grounds it a little but this isn't a dirty earthy patch scent at all. It reminds me of Aglaea as well, but not as sweet. I see where other people's 'soapy' reactions come from because the floral notes do hint at soap, but to me this smells clean, not soapy, it's a sophisticated scent. I'm surprised at the spicy note I get here-is it lemongrass, maybe elemi? The scent settles into a smooth, clean, bright and lively (but not hyper-this is jovial, but dignified as well) mix of flowers and peaches with ruby red oranges and a lovely deep warmth. The floral notes, maybe with the influence of honey, remind me of Kindly Moon…this is the daytime equivalent of KM. Eventually this smells more like blood orange with a hint of floral, not the other way round as before. Verdict: this is such a lovely, bright, bold fragrance! It’s a gorgeous fruity-floral scent which is lively and positive in feel, but also down to earth thanks to a touch of darker spice and patchouli. The gardenia note is perfect-smooth and floral. The nectarine is sweet and peachy, the lemongrass doesn’t amp, and I just love the blood orange here too. I was hoping for more honey, but I really love this scent as it is. It’s one of those sunny scents that’s perfect for banishing the winter blues, and has a nice clean sophisticated drydown of orange and white flowers. I’ve bought a bottle of this already. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? yes and I want more! If you like this, try: Aglaea, Imp, Akuma, Tamora, Thaleia, Fae, Kindly Moon

El Dia de Reyes In the bottle: mmm, hazelnut mocha! Rich hot chocolate! I want to drink this! Wet on skin: mmm, now the coffee comes out! This really does smell like mocha now! Dry on skin: oh yes, this is the stuff! This smells just like a mocha with added cinnamon, and it is delicious! The coffee is perfect-not bitter at all. The chocolate is rich and creamy and has a hint of brownies to it. The cinnamon spices it up perfectly and the sugar is not of the caramel kind. This is better than Starbucks, this is continental coffee, makes me feel like I'm in Paris, sipping a chocolat chaud in a boulevard-side café with the scent of roasting coffee beans wafting around me. After a while: this then smells like mocha served with chocolate cookies or brownies, and then a sweet, creamy, almost marshmallow like note comes out. It's slightly reminiscent of the Candy Butcher but not as marshmallowy as that one was on me. This one is much more of a truer chocolate coffee scent. But then it turns into a drier chocolate scent, like a cinnamon and chocolate biscuit. The combination of chocolate and cinnamon now reminds me of MB Underbed, but not as intense. It's not as creamy and liquid as it was before but it smells like some sort of crunchy spicy-chocolaty festive biscuit treat now, and I love it. At this point, this scent also reminds me of a few delicious scents from other companies-like Possets Maggie, NA's Egyptian Delight and Blooddrop's Café Zazou. Eventually this loses the dry, rough spicy scent and turns a lot smoother, it still smells like a chocolate cookie, but now it smells less like cocoa powder and more like a coating of melted milk chocolate all over a bunch of warm spicy cookies and chocolate cake. Like Cadbury's or Galaxy chocolate all warm and melty and delicious, like a chocolate fondue in which brownies are dipped, topped with cinnamon. Mmm, this makes me want to lick my arm. I'm amazed at how much this really smells like milk chocolate now, with no plastic or fake undertones to it at all. Verdict: after Pinched, this is the kind of coffee BPAL I adore! It smells just like a mixture of delicious coffee and chocolate treats, from spicy mocha to hot chocolate with cinnamon, to festive chocolate-cinnamon biscuits to brownies served with a creamy latte. I’ve never tried Mexican hot cocoa so I can’t say if it smells like that, but it does smell like the most perfect spiced mocha for the first hour. Then it goes into a dry stage which makes me think of biscuits or cookies, it’s snappy and warm and reminds me of Underbed. And the last stage is the purest, most accurate and most delicious milk chocolate note I have ever smelt from the Lab. Very lickable. I didn’t get it from Bliss, but I get pure Cadbury’s from here, with added spice. Yum. I need more of this indulgent and delightful scent! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? oh yes! If you like this, try: Miskatonic Uni, Bliss, Velvet, 13 (any version), Candy Butcher, Boomslang, MB Underbed

La Befana In the bottle: caramelised fruit and Xmas pudding! Reminiscent of Sugar Skull. Here's to hoping this caramel doesn't turn too cloying. Wet on skin: now I can smell flowers blooming out of the sugary stickiness…lilies and violets and a little hint of smoke! Dry on skin: oh, this is really intriguing. I smell violets, candied violets just like the ones in Faith, a hint of lily (not soapy lily) and a green woodsy note that may be cypress. Between it I smell a nice, comforting scent of chimney smoke, it's subtle though-not full on smoke but a waft of it, like the faint scent of smoke and soot in the air. It's definitely coal smoke, not wood smoke. I also smell things like mince pies, Xmas pudding and maybe even a hint of Italian pannetone or panforte? The caramel note is still going strong but it's not cloying thanks to the playful complexity this scent has with all the other notes. All the notes smell different but they go together surprisingly well! After a while: this one is a morpher! Now it's turned to caramelised violets. Before it was smoky desserts and I still smell that, but now it's the violet that is becoming dominant over the caramel. This is a youthful and pretty violet, not a dusty and antique violet that smells old fashioned, this violet is lovely. I don't smell as much smoke now. Then the caramelised scent returns! There's definitely a fruity and spicy aspect to the caramel, which brings to mind plum pudding. It reminds me of Crumpet Rebellion as well! And then the violets come back. Then the sugar returns and this time it smells boozy, like there's a hint of wine or rum to it. This scent is fun, I must say. Someone described it as whimsical and I totally agree. It's festive and jolly but very different to the usual festive scents. It's a very strong scent with tons of throw as well! Eventually this settles into something reminiscent of Cockaigne and Sugar Skull 06, a scent of brown sugar, mince pies, puddings and treacle…only this time with a touch of violet which prevents the scent from being too sickly. This scent lasts for ages on me! Verdict: this is a scent that really does capture the magic of the season-it is joyful and youthful, warm and inviting, and brimming with sugar. However it's not your average festive scent. This one is unusual and magical. It brings to mind a scent of the violet perfume of a kindly grandmother mixed with the scent of sugary treats she has brought as gifts, and a touch of soot and charcoal clinging to her dress. It's a very welcoming scent. Normally I'm not into the heavy sugar/caramel scents, and this is very much a heavily caramelised scent, fruits covered in toffee and plum puddings and spicy fruitcake. But I love this. I think it's the touches of violet (which lightens it nicely), cypress and smoke that make this more interesting than the usual caramel scent. I'm not sure if I'll get another bottle because it is a heavy and very sweet scent that may get a little too much at times, but I am definitely keeping my one bottle! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? yes! This is such a unique and fun, festive fragrance! If you like this, try: Faith, Sugar Skull, Cockaigne, Drink Me, Arrival at the Sabbath, Knave of Hearts, Queen Alice

Marshmallow Poof In the bottle: mmm, strawberry flavoured marshmallow fluffy sweetness! A bit like the new Beaver Moon but not as fruity. Wet on skin: it gets a tiny bit sharp, develops a hint of something almost like doll heads…but still smells sweetly fluffy. Dry on skin: interesting. This smells like fruity marshmallows but there's something I'm not sure about…it's a slight plastic note that smells like scented doll heads. Whilst in this scent it seems like a rather fitting scent, because this scent is fun and youthful and definitely fits the theme of pretty dolls with pink hair and strawberry dresses, I'm not sure I like smelling of plastic. There's also a slightly soapy sharpness which reminds me of a reaction I got with Chaste Moon (I'm one of the few who didn't love that scent). But I do love the fluffy marshmallow sweetness I get here-especially when smelt away from the wrist. It's light and sweet and joyful, it reminds me of a less creamy, less fruity Beaver Moon. After a while: the soapy/sharp note and the plastic note seem to die down a little-they still linger but they aren't as distracting as they were before. Now the sweet, delicious, fluffy and sugar coated marshmallow note starts to dominate. This isn't a toasted marshmallow, or a plain marshmallow scent, but a strawberry flavoured, bright pink, and squishy sweet. It reminds me of the bouncy texture of marshmallows, but doesn't have the lovely creamy vanilla scent I get with other marshmallow scents. This is a very airy, light scent, bubbly and soft, with a sprinkling of white sugar. The scent gets even lovelier, fluffier and delicious, and at times I almost smell a hint of sweet musk, which prevents it from being too foody. I really like this drydown. Not creamy, not juicy, not toasted, just sweet and white-pink and young and smiling. Verdict: I was looking forward to this one most out of this year's inquisition and was so pleased when I got a bottle! But sadly it's not as spectacular as I hoped for. It smells of marshmallows, for sure, but unfortunately there are stages of plastic and sweet soap before it becomes gloriously marshmallowy at drydown. It smells like doll heads and kid's bubble bath with sweet fluff, but I wanted pure marshmallow! I have to wait at least an hour or two before I really love this scent, and it smells just like fresh marshmallows covered in sugar. that being said, it is a really fun scent, very youthful and childlike and playful. So I will keep a decant of it, because it has layering potential, but I think I'll swap my bottle of it. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? not sure. I may swap my bottle, but I really like the drydown.

Swan Maiden In the imp: a beautiful, soft, rich white flower with sweet nectar. Wet on skin: the gardenia isn't turning to 'flower of evilness' on me! This smells of sweet daffodils, gardenia and lilies. Dry on skin: mmm, for now, this is gorgeous. Like a bouquet of white flowers, this is an elegant and feminine floral. I can smell the jonquil with its daffodil-like scent, the sweet gardenia and orchid, with rich magnolia and a hint of iris, even the lily notes are behaving. It's the perfect white floral scent, white as swan feathers, gentle and slightly melancholy. Now this is very pretty, but it could turn acrid like White Moon did on me. I'll wait and see. After a while: now the scent seems to turn a bit funny on me. Not acrid, or screaming flowers of death, but it now smells a little bit sickly sweet now, like oversweet flowers and a tone of overripe fruit. It reminds me of the slightly cloying scent I get from things like plum blossom and some champaca scents. There's something to it that reminds me of pear, a sweet fruit juice drizzled over the flowers. The calla lily is sharpening a little, but it's not a shrieking sharpness like it can be, this is a gentle lily like the one in Brides of Dracula. Considering this, it's not bad, it could have been a lot worse, it's a very tolerable scent, soft and sweet and exceedingly pretty. The floral notes become a little bit dry and thin over time, delicate and feathery, and then the scent begins to fade fast from my skin. At times it gains a hint of a white linen scent, then I smell a little bit of sandalwood, and the scent then becomes very faint. Verdict: I was expecting this to be a bane, what with all the floral notes that could either turn acrid or soapy on me. But I was surprised at how lovely this one was, especially at the start. This scent makes me think of ballerinas dancing to Swan Lake. It's a graceful, gentle floral, white and innocent and approachable. It's surprisingly nice, with it smelling gorgeously full and flowery for an hour or two. I'm not as keen on the drydown though…it doesn't go dry and wilted like these floral scents can do, but it does turn a little cloyingly sweet, like overripe fruit…and then it fades away really quickly, until the scent is feathery-light, hard to detect. It's not a favourite, but it's a lovely scent and certainly one of the nicest gardenia-lily-muguet scents I've come across. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? not really-but it is prettier and nicer than I expected. If you like this, try: Eternal, Ecstasy of St Theresa, Brides of Dracula, White Moon, Kitsune Tsuki

Lick It One More Time In the imp: mint fudge! Yes, this smells more like mint fudge than Tokyo Stomp did! Wet on skin: mint fudge morphing into a candy cane. The sugar here is browner than the old Lick It. Dry: whoa, this mint drills straight through my nostrils into my brain! This really clears the mind and chills the nose with a hit of pure, powerful peppermint. There’s the sugary undertone which is not the vanilla musk that I remember from the past two Lick Its, but a brown sugar, with a definite feel of mint fudge to it. This is a bracing mint and I also get a hint of mint humbugs and other traditional English mint sweets (probably Kendal mints?) After a while: tobacco? Yes, now this smells like minty, sweet tobacco. How bizarre! Where’s my mint fudge, my peppermint sweets? Now this smells like a cross between a traditional sweet shop and a gentleman’s lounge! I smell dusty tobacco mingling with remnants of mint and sugar. And as the scent goes on, it gets very dusty indeed, an old dusty wood scent with hints of paper…now this is turning into an old library scent, which I love. In fact, it’s exactly like the dusty-woody-bookish base of Miskatonic Uni, but with mint replacing the coffee and caramel. The scent of old dusty woods and a hint of smoke does seem to fade fast, which is unusual since smoky woody scents tend to last on me. it is now a whisper of old pages and ebony floorboards with just a hint of tobacco, reminiscent of Forbidden Foyer, Misk U and even a hint of the Dogs Playing Poker scents. it’s strange, but not unpleasant-it fades fast though, leaving a trace of sugary dust on my skin. I never once got the gorgeous vanilla musk I loved so much from the past two Lick It incarnations. Verdict: of the Lick It series, this is the strangest. It starts off smelling very promising indeed, a mouth watering mint fudge scent. it then turns into a blast of peppermint with a brown sugar undertone. Very nice, I think, and here’s to hoping it turns to pure fudge! But sadly it doesn’t. it does the oddest thing-it turns to a dark, dusty scent of dry tobacco, old books and dark woods. Kind of like ebony floorboards and old libraries and gentleman’s lounges, but with mint. Very, very bizarre. Normally I love scents that remind me of old books and dusty libraries, but I wasn’t expecting it in something that’s meant to smell like candy canes…it’s a little disconcerting actually. And the vanilla musk scent that made me fall in love with Lick It (and LI Again) is completely absent from this scent. and this scent does fade very fast as well. I think I’ll keep my decant but it’s not one I’ll get a bottle of. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Not sure. If you like this, try: Lick It, Lick It Again, Tokyo Stomp, Incubus, Snow Flakes, Grr, Miskatonic University

Mad Kate In the imp: honey, herbal geranium and thyme, and currant. Wet on skin: honeyed currants, a hint of soap, and vanilla. Dry: mmm, not bad! In fact, this is a very pretty scent. the honey is the main note, but underneath that I smell the sharp, juicy currants, a soft freesia note, and a combination of gardenia and vanilla that reminds me of BiggerCritters. I smell a hint of herbs to it, but they don’t overpower the honeyed currants and flowers. This is an unusual scent with many fragments to it-honey and fruit, sweet gardenia, and herbs-but nothing clashes. After a while: eventually, despite the lovely honey and vanilla notes, there’s something that I smell here which is a little bit soapy. It may be the gardenia note, possibly the freesia (though normally I like that note) but I’m not sure if I like the slight hint of soap I get here. The honey and currant aren’t as strong now. I really like the honey moments when, with the gardenia, I get a slight resemblance to Honey Moon, but that soapy undertone is slightly distracting. Eventually the soapy scent does go and I’m let with a very pretty gardenia sweetened with vanilla and honey. Not a gorgeous as the vanilla-gardenia in Euphrosyne, but very pleasant and feminine, and certainly not an evil, acrid gardenia note! The honey note really comes back after a few hours, and it reminds me of the honey in Et Lux Fuit. Verdict: for a ‘mad’ scent, this is surprisingly sane on my skin. This is a very pretty honeyed floral, almost like a honey-covered BiggerCritters, actually. The gardenia is very agreeable here, and I love the way it combines with the vanilla. the honey is lovely, not strong or sharp but watery and sweet like nectar. The freesia is lovely and the currant is nice and crisp. It’s actually quite an unusual mix of notes, and there’s something a little soapy that I’m not crazy about in here, despite the lovely gardenia-honey-vanilla scent. a pleasant and interesting floral scent-not sure if it’s my thing, but I like it. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Maybe. If you like this, try: MB BiggerCritters, Euphrosyne, O, Itaso Kansei, Spirit of the Komachi Cherry Tree, Al Araaf

La Vague In the imp: a gorgeous, uplifting sweet peach with creamy flowers. Wet on skin: the jasmine turns a tiny, tiny bit bitter, but doesn’t detract from the glorious peach. Dry: this is very pretty! Peaches and cream (no sourness) with rose petals, and a hint of dry white wine and powdery iris. I smell dry jasmine petals and a hint of sharp osmanthus. I’m keeping an eye-or nose-on these flowery notes because they have the potential to turn this scent a bit bad. But for now it’s just right. After a while: the lily of the valley now comes out a little more, but thankfully it’s like the lily in Bilquis, it doesn’t turn soapy. It also smells a bit drier and more like dry flower petals, with the jasmine and osmanthus now the dominant notes. The osmanthus has a peachy aspect which is enhanced by the peach. But far from being sharp and overpowering, the floral notes are gentle here. The scent is light, luminous and soft, with that smooth creaminess rounding everything nicely. Eventually this turns into a creamy osmanthus with dry rose petals and iris. It now reminds me of another Salon scent or two, and the osmanthus is drier and softer than usual-it’s dominant but not overpowering. Verdict: this is a gorgeous feminine fragrance. Creamy peach lifted by a bouquet of flowers, this is a beautiful pastel-coloured peachy floral. The jasmine behaves (though it does smell a little dry), as does the osmanthus which goes very nicely with the peach, and the cream and rose are lovely in here. it’s a pretty scent, but it doesn’t wow me as much as other peach scents…I like it and the floral notes that usually go awry on me don’t in here. but I think I prefer Les Bijoux to this. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Not sure. If you like this, try: Les Bijoux, Schaflende Baigneuse, Itaso Kansei, Silence, Cupid Complaining to Venus, Bilquis, Tamamo No Mae

The Black Swan In the imp: herbs? This smells very herbal, a little mossy, a bit violet-y and aquatic. Wet on skin: now this reminds me of ponds (in a good way-not stinky stagnant water), and also smells a bit like Undine. Dry: now I smell cologne, or a kind of ‘manly perfume’, but it’s not a bad one. In fact, this now reminds me strongly of Shanghai Tunnel. It’s got the same mossy-salty-wet feel to it, less of the mineral quality, more of a herbal, floral, earthy scent. It actually brings to mind a lily-filled pond, maybe by the sea, bordered by trees that have dropped their leaves into the water, there’s a decaying leaf scent to it as well. I also smell the violet (violet leaf, in here, is much more of an earthy, woodsy take on violet) and a gorgeous water lily note. Waterlily (and it’s variants-river lily, bog lily etc) isn’t a note I see often but it is so beautiful. After a while: the scent gets a little bit sour now, a little bit salty, now I can smell the seaweed and I’m not sure it likes me…it now smells a little bit like decaying seaweed. I still smell the lily but now the peony, which is a tiny bit sweet and soapy, is more prominent. The marine note is also stronger, as is the violet, which smells like a more masculine violet in here. it’s a lot dirtier and murkier, now the watery feel of the scent is a little bit stagnant, not disgustingly so, but it’s not as nice as the just-dry stage. It gets more and more like wilted violets in stagnant water over time. Verdict: to me, this is at first very much like a more floral version of Shanghai Tunnel, and an easier to acquire version of that scent. it smells like violets and waterlilies in a pond by the sea, with a hint of something earthy. It’s a very pleasant floral-aquatic and one where the marine notes don’t turn to soap on me! But I’m not as keen on the drydown, when it turns a little sour, wilted and stagnant. Not like vase water, but a little too much like decaying plants floating in a pond for me, and with a hint of masculine perfume. It’s not bad and I like the way it smells almost like, or rather evokes, a kind of pond I’d expect to see swans in. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Not sure. I love the first half hour of wear, not sure about the drydown. If you like this, try: Undine, Roux Ga Roux, Bayou, Dunwich, Ulalume

Archangel Winter In the imp: this one is unusual-it’s light, vaguely perfumy, a little floral, a little sweet… Wet on skin: a crisp, airy scent which is a little bit like mainstream perfume, but nicer. Dry: it is very perfumey in scent, like a fresh, modern perfume, but unlike most of the mainstream stuff, this one isn’t bland and one dimensional. This is unique. It feels cold on the skin and actually seems to chill the nose, just like winter air. It smells like crisp, cool, frosty air. There’s something to this that smells vividly like the crispness, the clarity of a starry winter’s night, only without the tinge of chestnut/bonfire/chimney smoke I usually smell on those nights. In fact, this ozone smell is quite beautiful, not stormy or electric, but crystalline. If I was to compare this to another scent, which is hard for something which is so different, it reminds me of Yvaine’s ‘starry night’ scent, without the lavender and warmth-this is cold. However, there’s also a cologne note to it, slightly floral, slightly fruity, and probably with a light musk. After a while: this is even more interesting now…it now smells sweet! like a soft covering of powdery icing sugar, with an undertone of blue musk. Yes, that’s what the muskiness is, it’s probably a blue musk. And is that waterlily I smell here? Now this actually reminds me of a waterlily perfume I’ve smelt elsewhere (IoE maybe). But then it starts to remind me of a lotus perfume I have from Egypt, of all things. And that’s a good thing because I love that lotus perfume. But this is a blue lotus brought out of its indigenous warm climate, and then trapped in ice, in a frozen pond. It’s a combination that should be mismatched, but it works, and the scent brings to mind a gorgeous ice blue…this is the winter version of Night’s Pavilion. I also smell a hint of saltiness, almost like the blue aquatic note from Aeaea, but this isn’t warm like that scent. Eventually this brings to mind a flower in colours of frosty white and blue, floating on an iceberg. The salty-sweet freshness now reminds me of the vanilla musk in Victoria. The scent fluctuates between sweet and powdered to floral and cold with that icy musk in between. Verdict: wow, this is so different to all the other winter BPALs, and it’s quite apart from other BPAL scents as a whole too. I thought I would dislike this, what with it’s ozone, and it’s initial scent that seemed to lean towards smelling more mainstream than BPAL usually smells. But it grew on me and now I love this one. Underneath the blast of what seems like mainstream perfume, there’s a wonderful airy note which is very evocative of winter night air…like a frosty sky ablaze with stars. I am struck by how clear this scent is-like glass, like diamonds or crystal, it sparkles. And then as it dries down, beautiful notes of blue musk and something uncannily like blue lotus come to the surface, and the scent brings to mind shades of shimmering blue, moonlit ice and frozen flowers. This is a stunningly beautiful scent and definitely one I need a bottle of-it manages to smell contemporary and modern but also poetic and atmospheric all at once. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Yes…this is a surprise hit! If you like this, try: Yvaine, Dirty, Darkling Thrush, Silence, Long Night Moon, Night’s Pavilion, Black Ice

The Snow Storm In the imp: chilly evergreen with a hint of berry…very much like Knecht Ruprecht and Mistletoe. Wet on skin: cool mint, frozen fruits, cedar and fir. The mint makes my skin tingle! Dry: fir, lots of it, with a frozen fruit note which, despite being iced up, also smells a bit fermented and a bit overripe to me. It’s almost like frozen apple, very similar to Knecht, actually. I also smell a frosty floral, probably the aconite. The mint doesn’t smell blatantly minty but it does cool the scent and the skin. The fir is dominant for now, a wilder fir note than the usual Xmas tree. The snow note in here isn’t the same as that of Skadi etc, not on me anyway, this is a lot more evergreen and forest-like to me. More like snow that’s falling in a forest but has yet to settle and gather, than thick deep snow. After a while: ok, that weird overripe fruit has now taken over. The fir note has also become very sharp and rough. But it’s that weird fruit note that I’m not sure about…it smells cloying and clashes with the harsh fir. It’s not as crisp and cold as before either, it’s like the snow has melted or not settled at all. it then turns a little dry, earthy and straw like, but at least the cloying fruit note is gone. I don’t smell any snow now though. Verdict: this one disappointed me a bit. I was hoping for it to smell snowy, but it doesn’t smell very snowy at all…there’s not much of a cold feel to it, despite the mint, and the evergreen notes do very weird things on my skin. I don’t get a resemblance to the other snow scents either-just a scent that starts off smelling like a winter forest, but then turns into a mix of overripe fruit and bitter fir branches. I wanted to smell like a blizzard in an evergreen woodland but this just smells like melting slush over fermented berries and bitter greenery. Not my favourite…I much prefer the snowy forest scents I get from November and Wolf Moon. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Not really. If you like this, try: Knecht Ruprecht, November, Death of the Gravedigger, Hemlock, Mistletoe, Wolf Moon

Murder of Crows In the imp: lemon sherbet! It’s like sweet lemon and powdered sugar! Wet on skin: now I smell cherry? This reminds me of those fizzy lemon sweets or sherbet powder! Dry: oh, this is lovely! It smells just like fizzy lemon flavoured sugar, or sherbet! The verbena isn’t too piercing here, it smells sweet and lemony but gentle. There’s a hint of crushed Parma Violet sweets here too, probably the iris? I don’t smell herbs but I’m sure the amber’s making this sweet. I also smell the same benzoin from Kunstkammer, because it smells vaguely like cherry lollipops. This is the kind of scent that reminds me of childhood sweets that I like, because it doesn’t smell fake or sour. It does smell very powdery though. After a while: the lemon verbena does clear eventually, and the scent becomes a lovely, ghostly pale iris scent, powdery and cool, with an undertone of greenness from the herbs. The amber sweetens the scent and adds a luminous feel, but doesn’t smell golden. The grey amber-iris combination brings to mind silvery moonlight reflected on shiny feathers (though not black crow feathers-this is a very pale scent to me). The scent changes from Parma Violets to powdery orris every now and then, with a hint of fruity-floral resin and herbs. This reminds me of Morella now, actually. It’s got that same iris-sage scent to it. the scent becomes a powdery iris scent with a hint of benzoin and herbs, a soft grey scent. Verdict: this is an interesting scent which smells like a mix of lemon drops and Parma Violets, but with a more sophisticated slant. It’s very lemony to begin with as the verbena makes itself known, but then the scent turns into a powdery, dusty, pale violet-like scent of iris, with a hint of sweetness which might be from the amber. It’s very powdery (no bad thing) at the end, and also reminds me of Morella. I like this one but because of it’s resemblance to Morella, which I have enough of, I don’t feel an urge to track down more of this. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? I like it but don’t need more.

Epitaph In the imp: a very, very, very soft, slightly sweet and watery floral. Wet on skin: lilies, pale white lilies with something clouding them. Dry: now I smell a hint of rose, but the main scent here is lily…it’s a white lily like the one in Tiger Lily, but there’s something unusual about this. This is a hazy floral, like flowers wrapped in fog, there’s a definite cloudiness to the scent, it’s not clear and crisp, but muted and blurred. This does indeed smell like flowers in the mist. It’s a gentle, ethereal, and sweetly powdery scent-slightly watery and dewy but also powdery. There’s also a hint of what could be violet in here, which isn’t listed but I smell it here. After a while: the soft misty scent clears and the lilies now smell more apparent, and a little sharper. They now smell like the lily/lily of the valley from Lush’s Lily Savon soap, in fact! There’s that slight hint of lemon to it that I get from the soap. I fear this will turn soapy as well. This teeters on the brink of soapiness, and I’m not sure about the slight sharpness I get here, but there’s a lily note to this that smells like the gorgeous musky lily in Kubla Khan! I also smell more of the rose now, as well as an airy, ghostly scent which is almost like a gentle ozone (an airy ozone, not stormy). This moves between a waxy lily and sharp rose, to a cool and sweet misty lily, I like that scent, but I’m not sure about the slight hint of soap I get sometimes. It reminds me slightly of Victoria, but not as fresh and without the crisp musk, and with a soapier lily. The drydown is like the lilies of Kubla Khan with a rose that reminds me of Silentium Amoris. Verdict: this really does smell like misty, ghostly lilies and roses. the lily is strongest, but even then it is wrapped in a soft layer of a note that I cannot distinguish, a mysterious powdery-hazy-airy scent which indeed is an ethereal mist hanging over the lily. When that does clear, sadly, the lily does turn a little soapy, the rose a little sharp. This is a very pretty, evocative scent but I prefer a few other lily-rose scents to this one. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Maybe. This is a haunting scent. If you like this, try: Tiger Lily, the Reaper and the Flowers, Victoria, Atrocious Attic, Sepulchre, Phantom Wooer, Kubla Khan

Plunder In the imp: ohh, glorious sweet cinnamon. Like Bengal without the honey. Wet on skin: now I smell pepper, and oddly, some anise? Dry: chai! This smells like dry chai tea, I smell the cinnamon and cassia, with pepper and clove, and a bit of nutmeg. I swear I smell aniseed here even though it’s not listed, but I don’t mind-anise scents seem to be growing on me these days. I also smell the sandalwood and tobacco which take away the foodiness of the scent. After a while: this still smells like loose chai …now it sweetens a little and the spices seem to become more rounded. It’s still a dry spice, hot and fiery, a little dusty, not creamy but pleasantly sweet. I still smell the anise, but maybe that could be clove now? Some clove notes have a slightly cool undertone to them in a similar way to how anise smells both cool and warm. This also reminds me of the spices in Silk Road but with a black tea note instead of the green tea I smelt in SR. this is really good. Eventually this turns to a lovely blend of spices and sandalwood with a bit of tobacco. Now I can’t pick out the spices as much, they’ve all merged together really nicely. There’s something almost like Mr Jacquel to this now, but with tobacco instead of patchouli, and no amber. It’s warm and dusty and dry, exotic, like the scent of spices from oriental markets in an antique chest, or even a treasure chest. It smells even more like Mr Jacquel over time, without amber…but the spices are very similar. Verdict: this really does smell like a dry mix of spices surrounded by the fragrant woods of a great ship. This is a dry and gloriously spicy mix full of warm cinnamon, with a lovely sandalwood base. And yes, there is a hint of chai to it, not creamy chai but dry chai which hasn’t been made into a drinkable tea yet. I love spices and cinnamon scents, but I’m not sure if this is my favourite BPAL cinnamon scent, or my favourite chai scent yet. It’s very nice, but I still prefer Bengal, Eclipse, Priala and Sin when it comes to BPAL cinnamon. The drydown reminds me of Mr Jacquel, but I prefer MJ because of the amber, which this lacks. I have a feeling this will age gorgeously so I’ll keep the imp for now and think about whether or not to get a bottle. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Yes, the imp. If you like this, try: Bengal, Al Shairan, Three Witches, Silk Road, Chimera, Sin, Mr Jaquel, Priala

Ile de la Tortue In the imp: rich sweet black orchids blooming in a rainforest. Wet on skin: sweet orchids and thick green foliage. Dry on skin: oh, I think I like this one, it smells promising. It smells of black orchid, my favourite orchid note, sweet and rich, in a thick mass of tropical plants. I can't tell what most of the plants in here smell like but I definitely smell the orchid, greenery, maybe the palm wine too (something in here reminds me of Caliban) but for now I don't smell vetiver. I also smell a feel of dampness here-it's a very humid scent, like the sticky heat of a rainforest. After a while: the initial heady green scent tones down, and now the orchids (and possibly the other flowers) really show off. The black orchid now smells like a sweet nocturnal flower, with a touch of nectar. I don't smell as much greenery but it is still there, in the background, and I also smell a hint of limestone too. It still smells hot and damp, and it vividly brings to mind a tropical night, with the cries of nocturnal creatures and insects breaking the starry silence, and the humid heat filled with the aroma of exotic blooms. Still no obvious vetiver. After a few hours-still none of the vetiver but the orchid has now muted to a soft white floral, it's not as sweet and heady but it still smells lovely. I also smell hints of damp stone, palm fronds and maybe a bit of the greenery that came before. The scent is a lot cleaner and crisper now. Verdict: this is beautiful! It's so hard to find a scent of tropical flowers and jungle greenery that doesn't turn to soap or sharp florals, but this one is perfect and what I wanted the likes of Pele etc to smell like. gorgeous rich orchid notes and a mass of humid greenery, and no off notes at all. even the vetiver doesn't overpower as it usually does-I think it binds all the other notes together. This smells like fabulous lush island vegetation and heady blooms, and it reminds me of Reunion (which, funnily enough, is sometimes nicknamed 'la tortue' because of the island's shape resembling a turtle's shell) and of my uncle's collection of orchids. Definitely one to get a bottle of! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? yes! If you like this, try: Hi'iaka, Pele, Shadow Witch Orchid, Caliban, Phantom Queen

Havana In the imp: leather, cigars and rum! Wet on skin: a sexy, strong leather with tobacco and a hint of sweet date. Reminds me of Pirate Moon! Dry: mmm, this is the leather and date from Pirate Moon with extra tobacco! mmm, I like this. There’s even a splash of rum to it. The leather is stronger than PM, this is a slick black leather which is almost suede like at times. Reminds me of new shoes. The palm note is a golden, woodsy-grassy scent with a hint of dried fronds and sweet, dry dates. The tobacco is subtle but sophisticated. After a while: mmm, now the palm is dominant. I think palm might be my new ‘note I’m strangely obsessed with’, because in here, like in PM, it is gorgeous! Golden and warm and dry, with hints of sweet, dried dates, reminiscent of Date SN but with more of a dry woodsy scent. The tobacco enhances this dry, slightly sandy note, and it definitely smells like the beach, without the salt and sea. There’s also a hint of deeper woods to it, like the woods of PM, but with no musk/ambergris/coconut. The date note sweetens nicely over time, the soft yet dried fruit scent with the golden palm and leather, and maybe a hint of rum. This is really good! I really love the gentle sweetness this has, a slightly dusty sweetness which is more apparent on the scent’s throw. The sweetness is so good at the end that I wonder if there’s a hidden tonka or vanilla note hidden in here. It reminds me of a more exotic version of Perversion now. Verdict: this is a truly gorgeous scent which, along with Pirate Moon, makes me realise how much I love date palm notes. This brings to mind a sexy Cuban guy inviting me to dance to the joyful Latin beats of the band playing in a bar filled with the scent of cigars and rum cocktails, overlooking the sea, palm trees waving in the sunset. But it also smells very similar to Pirate Moon, which is a good thing, since I love PM. It’s a lot more straightforward, not as complex as PM, but the leather, tobacco and palm are the same. And they smell warm, dry, soothing, sweet but not cloying, and quite seductive. This is a keeper! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? When I run out of Pirate Moon, I’ll get a bottle. If you like this, try: Pirate Moon, Bachelor’s Dog, Santo Domingo, Perversion, Krampus

Baneberry In the imp: a bit like Glasgow, but a bit greener. Has the potential to turn soapy. Wet on skin: a strong, potent black fruit scent, somewhere between blackcurrant and blackberry. Dry: blackcurrant surrounded by thick greenery. This is not bad now. It reminds me of Bewitched and Glasgow, and of Bitter Moon, the only blackberry scents not to turn to cat pee on me so far. But it also smells more like blackcurrants, a tart yet rich berry, but there’s a dark, greenish, bitter, slightly poisonous scent to it-it’s temptingly sweet at first, but with a sinister undertone. After a while: I knew this wouldn’t work, and now it doesn’t. There’s a hint of sage, but the other green notes develop a weird bitter-greasy scent which reminds me of rancid olive oil. The berry note is also starting to smell sharper and a little bit overripe, and with a hint of the dreaded cat pee. This reminds me of the Agony of Heartache now. The weird olive scent gets stronger and stronger, and gradually takes over the dark glossy berry scent. The olive scent does fade after a while, and now the scent is actually quite nice-a sophisticated and slightly perfumey blackcurrant scent, a bit like Lady Macbeth without the wine. Verdict: I’m not too keen on this. First it smells like bittersweet berries which isn’t too bad, but then turns too green and oily, with hints of the blackberry note that doesn’t work on me. It’s got a herbal scent to it which isn’t a nice herb scent, but one that turns to olive oil and poisonous greenery on me with that berry note. The RG scents are very hit and miss on me-this isn’t one that I like much. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? No. If you like this, try: Ghastly Garden, Bewitched, Bitter Moon, Lady Macbeth

The Ghastly Garden In the imp: green mossy plants with hints of flowers and berries. Reminds me of a non-aquatic Aeaea. Wet on skin: mossy herbs, flowers and a hint of blackberry. Dry: do I smell basil here? I think I do, or something like it. This is nicer than I expected it would be. it’s a dark, wet herbal garden, overgrown with thick damp moss (like the moss in Roux Ga Roux or Shanghai Tunnel) and ivy, with hints of flowers and blackberries…talking of which, there’s a note here that threatens to turn to cat pee on me. I think it’s blackberry or one of the herbs/plant notes? The more I smell it, the more I smell ‘bad kitty’ blackberry. I’m keeping an eye-or rather, nose-on that note. it could ruin this damp green scent which I love (and I’m not normally one for damp, swampy greens), which smells a bit like a hothouse, like at the Eden project or Kew. After a while: ok, the blackberry seems to have left, I don’t smell the dread cat pee here now but I do smell basil and maybe a hint of dandelion? It smells weedy, a really unkempt garden full of brambles and creepers and vines and other strangling plants, under which the smell of herbs and ornamental blooms can just be detected. It is very wet, somewhere between rainy and steamy, almost a jungle scent but not quite. I now smell sweet pea, and I’m keeping my nose on that note because this seems to be verging on smelling soapy. This seems to morph constantly between smelling like thick lush greenery, toxic berries, and slightly soapy sweet pea or lily. Hints of warm herbs and maybe the slightest hint of rose pop up. It’s like exploring the garden and catching whiffs of different plants at every turn, whilst thorns catch your clothes and nettles sting your skin. This garden is wild and untamed. I’m still torn as to whether I like it though because there are moments when it smells a little soapy, like waxy white petals. But even so, this is one of those really green scents that doesn’t turn to a bitter, harsh, ‘soap of doom’ mess on me. It’s what I hoped to get from the likes of Allison Gross. This also reminds me of Garden Path with Chickens, especially after a few hours, that same dewy fresh greenness. Eventually I get a lovely sweetness, this must be the sugared carnivorous plants. I really like this sweet phase, mixed with that airy, dewy greenness, it is a lot softer and fresher and less hot and humid. After that it smells a little bit like the lovely lettuce-sweet pea mix from Cancer, but without the sweet/beachy notes I got from that. Verdict: if Garden Path with Chickens is a civilised, neatly trimmed, pretty and flower-filled sunny garden, then this is it’s darker cousin. This is a wild, weed-filled garden that hasn’t been tended for years, overgrown with thorny plants and ivy and creeping plants and moss, on a hot, humid, stormy night. This is the scent of a miniature jungle, a tangle of strange plants, chaotic and shadowy. It’s fascinating and very complex. it’s quite unique to any of the green/garden scents in BPAL. I’m not sure if it’s a favourite though because there are moments when it turns soapy and other times when I smell ‘cat pee blackberry’, but at other times, this is amazing and very evocative of an abandoned garden with a sinister atmosphere. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Not sure yet. If you like this, try: Garden Path with Chickens, Virgo, Bayou, Roux Ga Roux, Baneberry, Ile de la Tortue, Allison Gross