PurringPulsar

Selkie In the imp: a fresh, effervescent aquatic with a watery floral note. Wet on skin: salty water-almost bordering on soapy but not quite-with fruity tart flowers. Dry on skin: this is very pretty! Like most of the sea scents, it does have a hint of laundry to it, similar to Dirty etc. I can smell the honeyed grass here though, with something almost tea like to it (tea leaved willow?) combined with the honey, it almost reminds me of Gennivre. There are also some sharp white flowers here-can't say what but they bring to mind flowers blooming on a cliff overlooking the sea, a cold breeze blowing on the coast, the smell of salt in the air. The marine note this has is very cold. After a while: what the? This is turning very fruity now. It now reminds me of the apple/pear notes I get in things like Dirty, Sundew, Empyreal Mist, and Thunderbird, crisp and sharp but almost teetering on the brink of becoming overripe, though there's a cool watery aspect reminding me of cucumber. It also reminds me of Szespasszony (or however it's spelled) but with a salty aspect instead of an earthy one. There's still that 'clean laundry in the sea breeze' scent to it. After a while, I get a distinctive 'dried sea grass' scent to this. It reminds me of the beach I used to go to as a child, where there were lots of sand dunes covered in tough spiky grass. This smells just like that grass, only with that fresh fruity-ozone note splashing over it like storm waves. Then the scent turns to sharp fruity soap. I smell a 'green stems' note but then there's an odd note which reminds me of plum blossom (which sometimes turns to overripe fruit on me) and detergent. It turns very sharp and sour after a few hours, and I'm not keen on that stage. The sourness dominates until it fades. Verdict: like most marine aquatic scents, this is another one that turns into clean laundry on me. It's quite pleasant for some time, actually. It's a fresh clean floral, cool and salty and breezy, a mix of sea spray and white crisp flowers, and a momentary hint of honeyed grass. This does turn to something very fruity, like apples/pears with almost cloying blossoms. I must say, despite the soapy-fruity scent that my skin is warping this fragrance into, it really does evoke the atmosphere of a Scottish beach, cold sea breezes, wild waves, chilly waters, hardy beach grasses and a hint of flowers on the coast. It's not bad, and the beach grass note is very accurate at one point, but I'm not keen on the drydown at all-it goes very sour and a little too detergent like on me…but I was expecting that. not a favourite, but very pretty and evocative, especially for the first hour or two of wear. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? I like it but there are other sea scents I prefer-and it turns soapy-so maybe not. If you like this, try: Dirty, Sea of Glass, Sundew, Thalassa, Szespasszony, Empyreal Mist, Gennivre, One to Tie Two to Win

Cancer 07 In the imp: oh, this is so pretty. A sweet, gentle flowery scent. I'm tempted to say mallow, since it reminds me of marshmallows. Wet on skin: a greenish, almost herbal note comes out and mingles with the soft flowery scent. Dry on skin: there's now a more bitter note that comes through, probably the lettuce. But the mallow and pear are still there and smell sweet and approachable. I smell camomile as well, a little bit of orris too, and the sweet pea is, for now, quite subtle. This is a fresh, watery and crisp scent, like a dewy garden, wet leaves and herbs, with a hint of fruitiness. After a while: now the sweet pea is more apparent, and there's that odd waxy scent that the sweet pea note usually gives me, bitter waxy petals with a hint of soap. However, the lettuce, mallow and orris are preventing this waxy-soapy floral note from taking over. There's still that pleasant watery-leafy scent with an almost fluffy, comforting sweetness. Is this fluffy note mallow? If so, I love it, it almost reminds me of the soft musk notes, downy and sweet and gentle. I'm sure there's something like this in Beltane 06, I even get a hint of Buck Moon, of all things, from this. The scent moves between the bitter sweet pea and lettuce to the soft powdery orris and mallow, but never turns too soapy like most sweet pea scents do. In fact, I swear I even smell vanilla! Then, at some other stages of the scent, I get a hint of the scent of the beach, a strangely beautiful sweet-salty scent of sand and sea mosses and salty rocks…the kind crabs like to hide in. There's even a scent of skin with a hint of sun cream. Now the scent reminds me of Lyonesse, with that soft musky golden scent mixing with mosses and floral notes. It also reminds me of a floral Banded Sea Snake, but not as vanilla-y. This is gorgeous. It really does have a feel of mossy salty stone to it at times-dusty vanilla stone like Black Opal, with a touch of green salted moss, and a lot of sweetness. The lettuce, now a drier, deep green, bitter leaf, makes a comeback at the end. Verdict: I think this is the only zodiac sign so far that works so well on me, and I have no planets in Cancer whatsoever. Go figure. But it is beautiful. I worried that the sweet pea (the note that prevented me from getting a bottle) would take over but it doesn't. In fact it is gorgeous in here. At first it is sweet pea and lettuce with something that may be mallow, but the scent then eventually turns into that wonderful 'BPAL on the beach' scent that I love. Some recent BPALs-like Lyonesse and Banded Sea Snake-have this gorgeous non-stereotypical beach scent of warm skin with a touch of sand and non-coconutty suncream, salty rocks, sea moss and clear water, with a touch of vanilla musk. Cancer has this beachy scent too, which is appropriate for a crab! This gentle scent does really capture the 'essence of feeling', there's a downy texture to this scent, cosy and warm, yet also with a contrasting green-watery feel to it. It is really unique, soft and touching (and has surprising throw at times too) and well blended. I wonder if Cancer works because I don't have anything in that sign-sort of like a compensation for an 'empty' sign? (If so then I have high hopes for Leo and Pisces!) All I know is that it works and I wish I had bought a bottle of this now! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Definitely the decant. I think I need to hunt down a bottle! If you like this, try: Aeval, Juliet, Mouse's Long and Sad Tale, Desdemona, Lyonesse, Banded Sea Snake, Annabel Lee

Thunder Moon In the imp: sharply ozonic, but not in the 'yikes' way I anticipated, this is more of a 'stormy sea' scent, waves whipped up by a thunderstorm. It has the potential to soap out or go scarily electric on me. Wet on skin: fresh ozone and rain, but also a lot of manly cologne. Dry on skin: hmm, actually this isn't bad. This isn't the 'thunderstorm of doom' scent I feared, but a fresh, bracing scent of sea spray and salty ozone and cool rain with grassy notes, white flowers, green woods and a hint of amber. There's also a hint of moss and musk. I smell rain soaked coastal forests here, and humidity contrasting with cool winds. There's a little hint of electricity crackling about but it's distant lightning, it's not turning into that horrid 'electrical appliances' scent that I get from ozone scents. This also smells like a sporty man's perfume, which I was expecting (Lightning had a similar feel), but it's not bad. After a while: this suddenly turns very salty. It is like standing by the coast watching a storm as the waves strike the shore sending spray into the air. A hint of smoke wafts past-from a lightning struck tree perhaps? There's the smell of pine and moss, the air crackles with energy and the wind freshens. This was what I thought Thunderbird would be like. This still smells like aftershave, very masculine and with lots of presense, it seems like it would be the scent of a man who loves the great outdoors, an adventurer. I have a feeling this scent would suit my dad-he's an adventurer who loves thunderstorms and was nearly struck by lightning twice (and that includes almost being hit by uber-rare, still unexplained by science, ball lightning!) As the scent goes into it's more ozonic drydown, mossy rained on soil with crackling lightning, the freakiest thing happens. A thunderstorm suddenly springs up out of nowhere-and it's one of the worst we've had this year! (not as bad as the one with the hail that hit South London, but pretty dramatic) lots of thunder and lightning and tons of rain. Could be a kwinkidink, but there were no storms forecast as far as I know. Now this makes me a little bit superstitious, not to mention very scared! That clinches it-this scent is never being worn by me again! (runs and hides under duvet) Sadly, the way my skin screws around with ozone means this scent doesn't have that lovely post-storm scent of fresh air, rained on soil and dripping plants that I am currently smelling from outside…just a generic manly perfume with a touch of that ozone smell from office appliances. It's not as bad as Tempest or Lightning though. Verdict: scent wise, this scent is one of the nicer thundery scents out there. There's ozone, but it doesn't turn to 'office ozone of doom'. It smells fresh and outdoorsy and cool, a really powerful man's scent. If Thor or Zeus had a scent, he'd smell something like this. It smells like being on the coast by a big evergreen forest as a storm rages, lightning flashes and rain falls, the wind whips up the sea and the smell of the trees surrounds you as the humidity lifts. At the same time, it smells like men's 'sport' cologne or deodorant, a good quality man's scent, but much too manly for me to pull off. But that's not all. Yet again, Beth works her magic. It's almost as though this scent is a potion that really does manipulate the weather, or a real bottled storm. Sure, this is English weather and these things happen a lot at this time of year with global warming and all, but I can't help but wonder…because soon after wearing this, a sudden, totally unexpected thunderstorm occurs, a big one too. The sky explodes and heavens open. It makes me even more respectful of BPAL oils-it seems some of these have magic in them in the same way as TALs do. That being said, I hate thunderstorms and after this experience, I'm much too scared to ever wear this scent any more! And even so, it's a really masculine scent on me. I knew I wouldn't like it, so off to swaps this goes! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? No! Get it away from me! (hides under the duvet again) If you like this, try: Lightning, Tempest, Pool of Tears, Kataniya, House of Mirrors

Helena In the bottle: beautiful white rose, like Parlement of Foules, but with more floral notes. Wet on skin: holy crap, this smells just like Boots Soltan sun lotion. That's no bad thing though. Dry on skin: gorgeous white rose with pale, watery flowers. Yes, it still reminds me of Soltan, but I don't mind…it's an aquatic-floral sun lotion scent, no coconut, and makes me think of summer holidays. However after a minute the flowers bloom nicely and it smells less like sun cream and more like roses and lilies. This is very pretty. There's something tangy to it as well, like the sharpness I got with the calla lily note in Cottonmouth, and it also reminds me of Ophelia. After a while: this gets very sharp and a little sour. It's not bad though…I just worry that, after retrying Ophelia and having it turn sour on me, the white rose note that I loved so much is now starting to turn against my skin chemistry. I'd be heartbroken if that was the case, so I'm hoping it's the lily that is turning sour and not my beloved rose. The waterlily note is very pleasant and cool, and there's still that sun lotion smell, but with a sharp greenish floral note to it. No amber, sadly. The sharp, almost aggressive sourness thankfully doesn't last and tones down a lot to leave a much more pleasant mix of roses and other flowers. The calla lily is dominant too, fighting with the rose to see which flower should rule over this scent. The waterlily and jasmine are gentler, a little bit shy in the face of the rose and calla. The rose and lily then make up, and the scent becomes a soft, fuzzy flowery scent with a touch of green, like a bouquet. Verdict: this is a lovely womanly scent, a pretty floral, and one that might grow on me, but I don't think I need a whole bottle. The scent reminds me at times of a sun lotion I wore all the time on my summer hols in Sicily, so it brings back pleasant memories…but there are times when the floral notes go really sharp and piercing on me. It's not the 'evil jasmine' reaction, it's more of a sour lily scent (I just hope it's not the rose that's souring on me!) and I'm not crazy about this stage of the scent. The scent does calm down after a while into a soft bunch of flowers, rose and calla lily taking the lead with the other flowers supporting it. I was hoping for more depth from the amber though. I do like this, but compared with Hermia, this one is only second best. I think I should have just gone for an imp of this scent instead of a bottle. I think I'll keep an imp and see what age does-I have a feeling this will get better with time, may lose that sourness, and maybe it will improve. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? just an imp's worth. If you like this, try: Ophelia, Three Brides, Sepulchre, Viola, Hymn, Nuit

Hermia In the imp: sweet pepper and…orange? I see where the citrus comments come from. Wet on skin: I swear I smell cinnamon here, as well as peppery amber. Dry on skin: oh, this is gorgeous! I smell the passion flower straight away, it smells almost like passion fruit in here but also very much like the flower itself. The pepper is fabulous, crackling gently, spicy and warm with an almost lemony-citrus scent, just like the pink pepper in Trick #2. I can't smell much of the honeysuckle but there's that wonderful golden amber behind it all. It also reminds me of cinnamon/cloves and oranges, or Constant Comment Tea. After a while: someone compared this to Morocco and now I see why…I'm getting a hint of the same creamy-musky carnation goodness I got in Morocco, only this time with added pepper and amber. This is so beautiful! It's still very spicy and sparkling, the scent dances like a little golden flame, and it is very approachable and gentle too. I think I smell a little bit of honeysuckle now. The amber has the almost chai tea-like quality that it had in the Lion, and I love that. Then the amber turns into that wonderful sweet fruity amber from Hymn to Proserpine, it has almost cherry or plum like overtones to it at this point. Damn, this is delicious. The carnation I smelt before comes out a little more after some time, mingling with the luxurious fruity peppered amber and spicing it up a little more. Eventually the spice tones down and it becomes smooth, sweet, sugary amber, like Hymn to Proserpine, but more youthful and floral. Verdict: damn, why didn't I get a bottle of this straight away? BPAL amber is like kryptonite to me, it makes me all weak and wobbly at the knees, I can't resist it's golden sweet scent, the way it 'glows' off my skin. And this scent is packed with amber. I was worried that the floral notes would turn on me, but they didn't. This is the most beautiful peppered amber scent, a younger, more feminine version of Three Gorgons. It also reminds me at times of other amber beauties like the Lion, Mouse's Tale, Mr Jacquel and Hymn to Proserpine, and even Morocco (not amber, but still), though what makes this one distinct is the pink pepper. What a lovely pepper-not too sneezy, just perfectly spicy, even a little citrus-like. It crackles warmly and playfully through the scent with fruity passionflower and a hint of honeysuckle…there's even something to it which reminds me of carnation. The drydown is glorious amber, decadent and bordering on almost plummy (think Snake Charmer plum-amber!) territory, a sister to Proserpine. A bottle of this is going on my next order…I think this is my favourite Shakespearean scent so far! (btw I am tall…but I'm not crazy about Helena, and I love this…) Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? oh yeah. One imp won't suffice! If you like this, try: Mouse's Long and Sad Tale, The Lion, Hymn to Proserpine, Three Gorgons, Morocco

Eris In the imp: watermelon! This smells like watermelon sweets (Jolly Ranchers maybe?) and is sugary and fun. Wet on skin: watermelon but now I think I smell the mimosa. Dry on skin: watermelon and a lot of other wet fruits, with dry floral notes and mimosa. This is surprisingly nice! The fruits are most apparent, melon with something that could be kiwi or another tropical fruit, and maybe some white grape or berries? Maybe plum? I smell citrus as well. Fruit salad sprinkled with sugar. The mimosa is a warm sunny fuzzy yellow scent, and I swear there's a hint of rose peeking out here too. I smell something warm and vaguely spicy but it's not blatant. This is playful and summery and with a hint of mischief to it. After a while: the melon note tones down and the scent warms up even more, possibly because of the spices-I think there's saffron here? There's a lovely dried rose scent along with a mix of fruits, smelling more like a spiced smoothie at this point than a fruit salad, and the soft powdery scent of mimosa permeates the fruity brightness. There's a floral note here that reminds me of Prague. I think there may be some apple in here too, which is fitting considering the mythology of Eris! At one point, I think there may be some lotus here, there's that sweet candied fruity floral scent to it which reminds me of my SN. That's a good thing, as I do love lotus. The fruity mimosa scent is still there (and the mimosa in here doesn't turn to soap) with that subtle warmth to it which is almost musky. oddly, there's even a hint of Lotus Moon to this stage of the scent, I smell lotus and the rose, maybe some amber too? The drydown is a lovely fruity lotus scent, candy-sweet and girly and fun. Verdict: this is surprisingly good! It smells like a fun, sparkling mix of fresh fruit, mainly melons and sweet apple, but there are also other sugared fruits in here that I can't distinguish but that smell very nice. The spice is subtle but adds a soft warmth to it all, there's a hint of mimosa which adds it's yellow pollen-y touch, and some other florals like rose and lotus (I think). This scent is gorgeous-very youthful and light and fun, quite mischievous as well, which is appropriate, I think. It smells sparkly and summery and candied. (It's no surprise that I like Eris, since I discovered that the newly discovered 'dwarf planet'/Kuiper belt object named Eris-the one that sent the definition of the solar system itself into disorder-is conjunct my sun, Mercury and Venus in my birth chart.) I'm so tempted to get more…but then I get the 'side effects'. I've been reading on the forum about some people getting chaotic things happening in their lives after wearing Eris, almost like this is a TAL or has been ritually blended to evoke the goddess of discord. And indeed, chaos happened when I wore this. The gas cooker broke. The computer screwed up. There were rows with my mum. Even the weather went crazy. Of course this could be coincidence but I think Beth's Excolo scents are more than perfume-they really do evoke their respective deities…which gives me second thoughts about whether or not to get more of this scent. it's a shame, because I love the scent so much! I should wear this with care, whenever I feel like I can cope with a little discord in my life… Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Yes! Although, I must use sparingly and whenever I feel I can deal with a bit of chaos… If you like this, try: Yemaya, Shango, Prague, Succubus, Fruit Moon, Lotus Moon, Arachne

Ah'Duno In the imp: lilac! Lots of dragon's blood but I'm sure there's lilac too. Wet on skin: dragon's blood aplenty! I smell floral notes here, it reminds me of Dragon's Eye. Dry on skin: now I smell the spicy notes of Wrath creeping into the scent! Cinnamon and clove and pepper crackling through the dragon's blood. I don't get the creamy scent of White Rabbit yet but I think I smell a hint of honey. But it's mainly lilac-like dragon's blood with a woody, dry, harsh spice to it, very much like Wrath meets Dragon's Eye. After a while: this smells very much like Mars or Wrath now, with twice as much dragon's blood. It's lightly spicy with a trace of sweetness, but it's the floral, bitter, red scent of dragon's blood which dominates this scent, it's almost a single note of DB but not quite. But it is very much all about the dragon's blood, with just the faintest, faintest hint of creamy honeyed linen to it from White Rabbit. The scent remains as pretty much all dragon's blood, a bit of sweetness behind it, but mainly floral red bitter lilac. It becomes a bitter floral, reminiscent of some jasmine/lilac/wisteria scents as it dries, still with DB dominating the scent. Verdict: this scent is described as being like Wrath meets White Rabbit, and I smell elements of both scents, but especially Wrath, and especially dragon's blood. The DB really amps like mad in this scent until it overtakes the whole scent, blotting out the traces of cinnamon, clove, pepper, honey, linen, creamy vanilla and whatever else is in here. There's an overwhelming floral aspect to this DB (as opposed to a resinous one) like bitter lilacs and wilted wisteria that I'm not crazy about. I'm not keen on this-dragon's blood is a very hit or miss note and I like it in moderation, this one has a bit too much. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? no, this one is too heavy on the dragon's blood. AhDuno if I like this much.

Shanghai Tunnel In the imp: a murky, slightly salty, mossy and aquatic-perfumey scent like Roux Ga Roux. Wet on skin: watery, salty, slightly masculine perfume. Dry on skin: whoa, this is really unusual! It smells very salty, for starters, like brine with seaweed, slightly stagnant too (but not in a bad way-it doesn't smell like rotting seaweed) but I definitely smell the kelp note in here. And the Spanish moss…though this is the lovely SM from Roux Ga Roux, not the 'swamp monster of doom' moss. There's also an aquatic note, oddly sweet and a little perfumey, reminiscent of the scents with murky watery notes like Roux, Bayou and Mock Turtle's Lessons, maybe also Ulalume. And then there's a note of wet stone, which is really uncanny-it really does bring to mind a crypt-like tunnel underground, it is close to the sea so the floor is wet with salty water, and there is green damp scummy moss growing up the walls covered with salt crystals. There's something almost sweetly fruity-floral to it as well, like lily and maybe a citrus note? yet, despite this being a salty aquatic, this isn't soapy or washing powdery at all. After a while: the intense salty-seaweed scent does tone down a little and there's a lovely fruity floral that pokes out now. I can't say what but it reminds me, strangely, of pomegranates or plums. There's also a white dewy flower which may be a lily note. Maybe waterlily? It reminds me of the lily note in Ulalume or Uruk, or, mainly because of the boggy scent, Dunwich. Maybe the sweetness may also be from the black musk. But there's still that aquatic and mossy scent to it, with a hint of teak at the base. With time the scent warms up a lot and becomes a gentle aquatic-floral-mossy warmth which almost reminds me of bathing with one of those 'mineral spa' bath bombs/bubble baths, blue and seaweedy and floral and soothing. After that stage, it becomes powdery and stony again, that floral-aquatic scent with a stronger mossy stone scent to it. The moss notes don't overwhelm though. The end scent of this is a dry, dusty, mossy scent reminiscent of dusty stone in a dark catacomb. It's mainly oak moss at this point but it does also smell like stone with a hint of lichen. Verdict: this is a fascinating fragrance. I had not heard of the Shanghai Tunnels until I read about this year's Convergence, but I must say this is very evocative of damp, drippy tunnels underground. Almost like crypts, very close to the sea so the seawater seeps in and makes the whole place smell of algae and brine, and the walls are grey and mossy. It's so genuine that I can almost hear the drip, drip, drip of water dripping off the moss on the ceiling. At the same time, there's a pleasant perfume-y aspect to the scent which moves between smelling quite masculine with moss and wood, to almost feminine with a clear, bright aquatic floral note and even a hint of sweet fruit. It changes from salty to seaweedy to perfumey to fruity to a dewy floral to a dry mossy stone, it's a really interesting morpher of a scent. not a favourite-the salty kelp scent I get at the beginning is impressive but a little too much for me, but I like this enough to keep the small amount I have, but not to shell out on Ebay for more. And it's also a marine aquatic and Spanish moss scent that works on my skin, which is quite a rarity. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? I think so! This is surprisingly good and a marine scent which doesn't soap out on me.

Gemini 07 In the bottle: lavender with a floral-incense undertone, reminiscent of Psyche meets Arcana. Wet on skin: the orchid unfurls on my skin under the lavender, sweet and dewy. Dry on skin: oh, this is gorgeous! The lavender is strong here but has a smoky-spicy feel to it reminiscent of my mum's 'Evening in Provence' incense. The orchid note is beautiful, rich and full, it's more of a lighter orchid scent than black orchid, reminds me of Magdalene and Shadow Witch Orchid. The frankincense adds a piercing incense scent and enhances the smoky scent of the lavender. After a while: the lavender has gone down and now the orchid rules the scent. however, I preferred the orchid before-it's not as full and rich as it was. it's still pretty but there's an odd lemony-green aspect to the orchid which is almost perfumey, maybe even a little soapy. I still smell the frankincense which is lovely and smoky now, a little peppery and smouldering, but the orchid reminds me of the oddly ozone-ish orchid in Oberon which I wasn't crazy about. It seems that there's something almost like verbena to this as well, it's even doing that weird bitter-soapy thing that verbena sometimes does to me. after a few hours the floral fades into this odd green-herbal-mossy scent which smells a little dirty, and not in a good way. It reminds me of the 'sweaty orchid' scent I got from Medea, but much lighter. Verdict: I'm not sure about this scent. This one was a little bit disappointing despite such a promising start, and a note list I thought could do no wrong. But this went odd on me. at first, I really liked the lavender-orchid intro with a smokiness because it reminded me of an incense stick scent I like, and the orchid was very rich and full. But then it turned weird, smelt less rich and sweet and started to smell wilted and sharp, even a little soapy, with an odd lemon verbena aspect. It was rather flat and smelt a bit off on my skin, and it even started to smell a little dirty-sweaty at the end, which I was not keen on at all. It's not an outright disaster-I'm keeping a decant-but I really hope that the other astrological scents work better on me, the last three have not been successes (and I'm really into astrology, so it's puzzling, and heartbreaking…) Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? I'll keep a decant-I'd like to keep at least small amounts of the zodiac, just in case… If you like this, try: Oneroi, Psyche, Magdalene, Shadow Witch Orchid, Oberon, Arcana

Sitting Up with a Sick Friend In the imp: posh perfume with tobacco. Wet on skin: there's a hint of leather, but it's mainly posh perfume with a touch of rose. Dry on skin: mmm, this smells perfumey, but it's quite a nice perfume! it smells grown up, very sophisticated, a definite 'dressed up to the nines' sort of perfume that an older woman would wear for going to the opera. There's a sweetness to the perfume, almost like amber. There's also leather (I get the impression of a sleek leather handbag) and dry, crisp tobacco, and the rosewater mixes with the perfume to become part of it. After a while: the perfume reminds me slightly of the drydown I got from Jailbait, only a little more old fashioned and grown up. There's something oddly almond like about it, and it reminds me slightly of Fabienne by Possets, but darker, heavier and without the slight foody touch. There's also that perfumey sharpness, and the leather underneath enhances the sleek sophistication of this scent, with tobacco it seems almost like a mingling of men and women's perfumes. It is a very 'heady smack' of a scent though. A little too heady for me! The scent remains a 'old perfume' scent. Smells one of those expensive French perfumes, it is very classy. Not sure exactly what perfume this smells like but it does remind me of something I've smelt before. there might be amber and/or musk to this, some heady florals (other than rose). after a few hours I think I smell a bit of ambergris, seems that was what the amber-like perfumey scent I got from here may have been after all. The scent becomes a little bit powdery at the end. Verdict: whoa, now that's perfumey. Really, really perfumey. It smells like something very expensive and makes me think of posh hotels/theatres with gilded ornate décor, and also department stores, this stuff smells like it costs a lot. The tobacco is heavy, the leather is sleek and warm, and there's a nice touch of rose, but the heady perfume is what dominates. I can't tell what's in this perfume but I'm guessing ambergris, a musk note, definitely some flowers too. It has a slight golden scent and makes me think of dressing up in your most pricey clothes for a very posh night out, it smells so grandiose! But it's much too much for me-it smells like something my mum would wear. Not my thing. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? not really. If you like this, try: Riding the Goat, Jailbait, Love in the Asylum, A Bold Bluff

New Year's Eve in Dogville In the bottle: a strong neroli/petitgrain and cologne scent with champagne bubbles fizzing through. Wet on skin: sharp cologne, effervescent and perfumey. It smells strongly of citrus or neroli, with champagne. Dry on skin: perfumey but surprisingly pretty! I was worried this would be an attack of 'men's cologne of doom' but this might actually be quite nice. Indeed, the citrus based men's perfume is strong, and there's a hint of something woodsy/tobacco-like to that as well, but the champagne bubbling away adds a tartness of a different kind, adds life and sparkle. There's a pleasant floral-white musk scent, this may be a mix of hibiscus and osmanthus, because the 'flirty perfume' in here smells very much like that Japanese Salon scent, Itaso Kensai…but without the honey. After a while: the sharp men's cologne tones down dramatically, and a delightful floral-musk dances through the scent, it's a white or skin musk mixed with a sweet flowery mix of notes I can't identify but I'm guessing hibiscus, osmanthus, neroli, maybe lily or a green floral note. It's also a bit fruity and has a note to it that reminds me of passion fruit for some odd reason. Maybe it's passionflower? There may even be a touch of cherry blossom or rice milk/wine to this. And I think there's some vanilla and moss here too. The drydown is this lovely softly powdery floral scent, like a sweeter, drier version of Itaso or even Hungry Ghost Moon/Tamamo No Mae, it smells almost like an Asian scent. This playful floral-skin/white musk scent is almost like Stardust but with none of the smoky haziness of that scent, and this is a little sweeter, more youthful. Verdict: this is surprisingly good! At first I though 'oh noes! Death by aftershave!' and that scared me a bit with it's aggressive intro of sharp cologne, a very manly and perfumey scent, but then this faded to leave a gorgeous and very pretty scent of bubbly feminine perfume. I smell the champagne and underneath is a mix of flowers wrapped in skin musk/white musk which smells like a retro perfume at times, and at other times like a delicate and unusual floral which reminds me of some of the Asian scents. There's a touch of fruit to it as well. It gets better and better as the musk softens and a sweetness, like vanilla (or maybe vanilla flower) comes out, and a little bit of pleasant powderiness. Whereas Stardust was smoky, drugged up, messed up hair and smudged make-up, smelling like what you'd smell like in the small hours of a New Year's Eve do, this is the 'before midnight' scent, the party's just begun and you've only had one champagne and are waiting for the perfect partner to dance with. A youthful, light hearted, gently flirtatious and graceful scent which starts off as masculine but ends off as being more womanly. A lovely party scent and a lot better than I thought it would be. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? yes! I think this has replaced Stardust as my perfume of choice for New Year's Eve! If you like this, try: Stardust, Tamamo No Mae, Bon Vivant, Cottonmouth, Kindly Moon, Lantern Ghost of Oiwa, Itaso Kansei Jenkan…

This update was much more my thing than the last one...lots of amber, musk, witches and fairies and Good Omens too? I like that! My prediction for this update bringing hot, sunny scents was correct, as was my prediction for Leo containing amber. I'm now regretting buying second bottles of both Red Moon and Leo...Fairy Market looks so amazing, as does the Witch Queen, and Aziraphale and Crowley are coming home with me when I order on the 13th. My Saturday evenings will be boring again now that Dr Who is over... And I wish the weather could warm up a bit, it's almost July and it feels like October, but without the prettiness of autumn leaves. And the rain won't stop. I think the pizza and pasta cravings will return by next week, but the question is, will UK versions satiate them now I've tasted the real Italian stuff? Oh, and I need a job. Now. Not just for the money but for something to keep me busy during the holidays. It's nice being lazy but it gets boring just lying about doing nothing after some time. I need routine and something constructive to do. And some money would be nice.

Stranger in Camp Evergreen, damp grass, woodsmoke, birch bark, cedar, and Terebinth pine. In the imp: spicy pine. Definitely along the lines of a Christmas tree, but warmer. Wet on skin: Christmas tree! I love the smell of those festive pine needles, and this is the closest BPAL after Mistletoe to smell like that. Dry on skin: oh, now this smells even more interesting than just a Xmas tree. Now I get an almost vanilla-resin sweetness peeking through, like benzoin, and I get that wonderful Mediterranean pine resin scent I love so much. When I was in Croatia, I remember my lilo and beach bag getting covered with sticky sap from the pine trees-a pain to wash off, a joy to smell. There are some gentle wood scents here too, a gorgeous grass note (better than the one in One to Tie, I think) and a soft smokiness. Now this smells less like a festively decorated tree and more like a pine forest in the summer. I'm not a camper but I do love the smell of pine forests in warm weather, and especially the really sappy pines, which I get a lot of here. That sweetness is what makes this scent perfect though. After a while: the pine, which is almost spicy, tones down a little, letting that gorgeous tonka-benzoin sweetness through. It adds a wonderful cuddly warmth to the evergreen notes. The smoke note is so gentle, not full on campfire, but the scent wafting from the embers on a warm summer's night, with the smell of the trees and grasses all around. The gorgeous tonka-like background gets stronger and it reminds me slightly of the resinous sweetness from Black Forest, but it's not black musk, and doesn't have the heavy, syrupy feel of BF. It also reminds me of the smooth sweetness of Pinched with Four Aces, something that's not listed as a note adding a wonderful base to this forest scent. There's a gorgeous amber note that pops up after a few hours. This just gets better and better with wear. There's something almost Schwarzer Mond-ish to this now (not as dark, patchouli-ed and musky though), which I believe is the terebinth. Verdict: I think I've found my holy grail of BPAL pine scents. It is pine perfection, the best forest fragrance of all. This is everything I hoped to get in the likes of Slobbering Pine, Knecht Ruprecht, Black Forest, Hexxenacht and Yule...whilst those were nice, they weren't the perfect pine-forest scents for me. This is though. I've been looking for a really sappy, resinous pine scent and this has a resinous feel to it, along with crushed needles. It has that 'summer pine' scent reminiscent of Mediterranean nights that I love so much. I also smell the woods and the grass and a lovely subtle smoke. But there's a wonderful, gorgeous sweetness to it which makes it even more delightful and wearable, prevents me from smelling too much like a Christmas tree. It reminds me of amber, especially at the end, and it is so lovely and warm and glowing and sweet, maybe there's tonka here too? it reminds me slightly of the sweetness in Pinched with Four Aces but less creamy, more resinous. Beautifully outdoorsy but with that amber adding another dimension to it. If Wolf Moon was a pine forest in winter, this is the summer equivalent. I'm so glad I found the right pine scent for me. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Yup! as I said, it's my perfect forest scent. If you like this, try: Black Forest, Nocnitsa, Talvikuu, Knecht Ruprecht, Thanatopsis, Wolf Moon 07

Philosopher in Meditation In the bottle: sweetened grapes! Like a sweet red dessert wine and honey. It reminds me of Cairo, for sure, but also of Tum without the herbs. Very Tummy, this one is. Wet on skin: mmm, now the kyphi really shows off, like raisins soaked in honey and incense, with a hint of smoke. Dry on skin: mmm! This is like Cairo, but more intense and much darker, without that lemongrass tang. The kyphi in here is stunning! It smells more like one of my kyphi incense mixes than Cairo did, I can smell the honeyed raisins and wine mixed with the resins and spices here. There's also a drier, woody, almost Midnight Mass-ish incense note to it, which I'm assuming is the Abremalin? It is a little bit cinnamon-y and reminds me of some of the oude notes I've smelt in other scents. And there's a gentle hint of smoke to this, like incenses smouldering softly. No more 'sugary grape juice', this is more like a deep red wine. After a while: the drier woods take a back seat now as the rich, fruity and deep kyphi does it's thing. it smells like wine matured myrrh now, with honey and raisins, a sticky scent but not too sweet, thanks to the smoke wafting from the incense. It really does smell like ancient incense, complicated and warm and mysterious. After a couple of hours I see the Urd comparisons, it is a little bit like Urd with the patchouli and nag champa replaced with resinous incense. It reminds me of the raisin-y scent of Haloa but not as foody-sweet or creamy-oily. This is just like sniffing a fine batch of aged kyphi, or the smell of that incense lingering in a dimly lit room. The scent becomes a wonderful rich myrrh after some time, like Priala's myrrh, but less sweet and without as much spice. Verdict: I am such a kyphi ho, and this is probably my favourite kyphi scent in BPAL, and fast becoming part of my top ten BPAL incense scents. Whereas Cairo was sunnier and more energetic in feel, this is introspective and, indeed, meditative…and the kyphi is much truer in here as well. It smells drier, less fruity, stickier, more resinous and smoky. I smell the honeyed raisins and the rich red wine and the myrrh, also some spices and woods, some of which may be part of the Abremalin incense, and that lovely wood smoke giving the impression of incense burning gently. This is a fascinating scent, very deep and complex, it smells incredibly ancient and aged. It's the sort of scent I want to get lost in, like getting lost in deep thoughts. The scent fits the thoughtful and calm colours and theme of the painting as well as smelling like an arcane blend of ritual incense, occult, alchemical, magical. Very beautiful incense, definitely along similar lines to the likes of Midnight Mass, Al Azif and Urd, but very different as well. Damn this is fantastic stuff, I love what Beth does with resins. I feel the urge to burn some kyphi now… Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Of course! This is an incense orgasm! If you like this, try: Cairo, Tum, Priala, Al Azif, Midnight Mass, Haloa, Riding the Goat, Anubis

Cleopatra Testing Poisons on Those Condemned to Death In the bottle: mmm, delicious! I see what others mean by chocolate, though to me it smells more like dates and figs mixed with almonds and honey and spices, a Mediterranean/Middle Eastern dessert. Wet on skin: gorgeous honey and saffron come out now with the hyssop and almond following. Dry on skin: mmm! Now I smell what could be the poisons, a dark herbal undercurrent of either belladonna or hemlock, with a floral note which I can't identify. Something about this honeyed scent reminds me of Penitent Magdalene, there's a feel of flowers and golden pollen to it-not sure where that's from in here. I smell honey and saffron mainly, with almonds and myrrh, a hint of herbs too, it is a very smooth, warm, exotic scent, it smells almost foody and enticing at first, but there's a darker undercurrent. It is also on very similar lines to Bastet. The peach kernel note is intriguing in that it smells a little peachy but not juicy, it's husky and nutty, and works well with the almond. After a while: the throw far from my wrist is an alluring and summery golden-brown honeyed nut scent, almost like coconut oil at times but not quite, it reminds me of almonds and figs soaked in honey. It makes me think of a luxurious body oil from ancient times. Close up however, the smell is a little more floral-herbal, I think one of the poisons showing up a lot more, along with a myrrh note which seems almost golden and reedy. I also smell the dry green scent of palm. There's still that sweet exotic oily scent sensually veiling the poisons. The scent then turns to a smooth but unexpected fragrance-a bright golden honeyed floral with a dry sandy almond backdrop. It's a sunny scent, which is dry and light, very much like the immortelle in Penitent Magdalene, or the honeyed almond lily in Bilquis. I have no idea why it's turned floral but it's very pretty. There's an undertone of very subtle vetiver which may be part of the belladonna accord (I smelt vetiver in the RG Belladonna scent) and there's still that sweet, exotic, oily feel to it, the nuts and resins and spices, golden brown and glimmering. It also reminds me of Bastet without amber and musk and with honey in it's place…not furry like Bastet, this makes me think of smooth, dusky brown skin with a hint of sand-almost beachy but not quite. Verdict: I knew this would be fabulous and it's even better than expected! I was worried that the poisonous notes would turn too herbal and dirty on me like they did in their respective RG scents, but they were very pleasant here. The scent is a wonderful, decadent and exotic mix of golden oriental notes, the honey, almond, saffron and peach kernel being strongest. I get the impression of a gorgeous honeyed-nut-spicy dessert, something I'd imagine Egyptian queens feasting on, with ancient anointing oils applied to royal skin after a good long milk bath. However I also get an unexpected yellow flower note, like a pollen-y spring floral, maybe it's the aconite? It is very pretty and not soapy at all, whilst the hemlock and belladonna and palm add a dry, earthy greenness at the back. But overall, it's a glossy honeyed oil scent, rich and mysterious and very fitting for a queen. I also think the resins will get richer and stronger with age. It's a very unusual, complex but well mixed scent with aspects of gourmand, oriental, herbal and floral, and not surprisingly, I love it. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Of course! How could I not refuse this asp-kicking scent? If you like this, try: Bastet, Great Cry in Egypt, Bilquis, Queen of Sheba, Penitent Magdalene, Hemlock, Belladonna

...in rainy London. I suppose it's nice to have a break from +100 degree heat but I do miss the nice weather. I had a wonderful time. One of my favourite holidays for a long time, it's been memorable and eventful in many ways. Oh, and the food has been stunning. I should have put on weight with all the pizza and pasta and ice cream I wolfed down but all the walking I did (climbing Etna!) must have burnt it all off. Here's a little summary of how it went: Highs and Lows: -as I said, the food! I am very pizza and pasta-ed out now but the pizzas here, and my mum's tomato sauce, are nothing compared to the pizza and pasta I had in Sicily. Don't get me started on the ice creams. -Cefalu, the town I stayed in, is possibly the most charming little Mediterranean town I've stayed in so far. Lots of lovely little alleys and wonderful restaurants, and it seems pretty untouched by the full tourist thing (ie, no McD's or Starbucks yet), and with a great beach. -the mozzies treated me like a pizza and I ended up looking like one thanks to their feasting. I've never had bites so big and itchy! -the heat was unreal. I mean, 47C? (not sure what it is in fahrenheit but I know it's over 100) Even on the beach? It was truly Saharan out there. There were wildfires aplenty, followed by blackouts and even water shortages. (As my 'doomsday dad' would say, that's a taster of what's to come for the UK in 20 years time!) I also got a sunburnt arse, which is pretty hurty. -climbing Etna was amazing! It was sweltering at the coast and yet there was snow at the top of the volcano, right alongside hot steaming vents. It looked like another planet. And it was so gusty and dusty. But so worth it. -there was one tour guide we had who was a total bitch and treated the English speakers like shit whilst she was all favouritist with the people who spoke German (and when we asked for translation into English she said 'I already told you this already' really rudely), and her English was crap anyway. At one point the tour guide's 'friends' ganged up against us English speakers and it got really aggressive. I've never had a guide so bad before. -there are some fascinating historical sites all over the place-from ancient Greek temples and theatres, and wonderful Roman and Byzantine mosaics...my favourite though had to be the Palermo mummy catacombs. That place has an amazing collection of dried out dead guys that outrivals the British Museum, I think... So overall this was a wonderful holiday (despite the mozzies, the fires and that guide) and I really do miss being there-I definitely want to return though. Now I'm back from hols, I can't wait for the UPDATE!!!

Is it me or has the label for Dee changed? I got a bottle of Dee and it has a really cool label-almost like the GC ones but with Dee in big letters and a Monas at the back (like the locket) which is Dee's symbol. Is this a new label or has it always been like this? I'm wondering if this is to do with the Alchemists collection (and I also wonder if Saint Germain also has a cool alchemical label too?)

A Bachelor's Dog In the imp: oh wow. A sweet, gentle musk. No leather or tobacco, just a lovely sweet powdery musk. Wet on skin: now a slightly nutty, dry tobacco note comes out, along with soft black leather and that lovely musk. Dry on skin: mmm! This is truly gorgeous. I certainly get the Buck Moon comparisons but this reminds me more of Death Cap, with the earthy notes replaced by leather and tobacco. It's that same sweet, light, almost coconut-sandalwood like musk, it also reminds me of Brown Jenkins without the incense. The delightful soft musk also reminds me of Morocco and Bow and Crown (especially the latter, thanks to the leather). So it's a cuddly sweet musk with a suave undertone of leather and a hint of tobacco leaf smouldering away gently...in fact, the smoky pale musk (which also smells a tad spicy-yum!) reminds me of Devil's Night. After a while: erm, what the? It could just be a trick of the nose or mind. But the more I smell this, the more I smell a hint of dog to this. Yes, dog...but not 'stinky wet dog', more like that 'clean, cute, loveable puppy' smell, under the soft powdery sweetness of the musk. Soft fur and a slight milkiness. It's very subtle, this doggy scent, and could be a skin/nose thing but it's very appropriate! Although the rest of the notes don't smell like anything puppy-like...the tobacco has strengthened a tad and smells less like unburnt cigars and more like subtle smoke, and the leather is sexy and smooth. After a little while the tobacco smoke fades and disperses, leaving that soft, powdery and fluffy musk behind. It's the olfactory version of hugging an adorable puppy on a leather sofa, it epitomises comfort. There's also a hint of that sandalwood-like, nutty scent I got in Death Cap. Verdict: I'm so glad I bought a 5ml of this one...it reminds me of some of my favourite leather, tobacco, and light musk scents. Almost like a mix of aspects of a few of my favourite scents-such as Devil's Night, Death Cap, Bow and Crown, Buck Moon, even a hint of Morocco makes an appearance. But thankfully the scent is also quite different to those. For starters, this scent fits the name perfectly. The musk in here has a fleeting hint of something canine about it-how does Beth capture the scent of a dog? Thankfully it doesn't smell of wet dog (and believe me, I hate that smell), but it reminds me of puppies...the scent makes me think of a well groomed gentlemanly dog lying on a leather sofa, the smell of cigars lingering on his fur. Warm, comforting and cuddly musk, soft and furry and loveable, but given a suave, sophisticated edge from the leather and tobacco. This is a really cosy scent but the black leather of course makes it a little bit sexy. This seems like a stunning scent for both men and women. A new leather-musk love of mine. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? yes! So glad I bought a bottle-this is a lovely comfort scent. If you like this, try: Death Cap, Bow and Crown of Conquest, Brown Jenkins, Loviatar, Devil's Night

It's really bad that this occurs on the day before I head off to Sicily. I was going to write a little entry about how much I looked forward to tucking into real Italian food, the best pizzas with the thin crispy crusts, pasta cooked in the best tomato sauce, and the finest ice cream in the world. But then I hear some truly saddening news. My aunt passed away today. The melanoma which I thought was being cured successfully with chemo (in the last phone call I had with her, she was so optimistic) finally claimed her life. It is really terrible, I didn't know her that well have haven't seen her much, I wish I'd seen her more. Now it's too late...cancer is a horrible thing and it has claimed many of my relatives, my aunts, uncles and grandmothers. It frightens me and has made me a little scared to go out in the sun (and I'm going to Sicily of all places) even if my skin tone is more sun-resistant than hers. I wish I got to know her better in life, and I did say some things about her in life which I regret a little now (mainly jokes about her obsession with Cliff Richard and her phone calls where she constantly went off at tangents about friends of her friend's boyfriends mothers...) but nothing too serious. It's bad timing that it happens before I leave for what should be a relaxing holiday, but life and death like that-full of bad timing, sadly. I suppose the good thing is that now the pain and sickness really is over, she's free from it, in a better place.

Pinched with Four Aces In the imp: dry coffee with sweet creamy cinnamon-like a chai latte! Wet on skin: now I smell the dry, crisp, smoky smell of tobacco mingling with bitter coffee and creamy cinnamon chai. Dry on skin: mmm, this is lovely! The cinnamon note in here is so wonderful-it reminds me of the creamy cinnamon from the original version of Three Witches, which I adore. It smells like milky vanilla chai in here, but with coffee, this scent does have a feel of spicy latte to it, reminiscent of Christmas at Starbucks. The tobacco and woods add a gorgeous soft dryness but the tobacco doesn't overwhelm. A very comforting scent! After a while: the wonderful milky scent of the spice in here reminds me of some of the clove scents, so smooth and cosy, it wraps around the tobacco and the fragrant woods like a blanket, with just that hint of coffee, and it's not the bitter coffee I feared. This is what I hoped Misk Uni would be like-it's not caramelised or as dusty, but truly gorgeous. It also reminds me of Count Dracula, another favourite of mine, but without the leather. There's an almost tonka-like sweetness to the scent though. The scent becomes less dry and tobacco-y and woodsy and becomes sweeter, creamier, softer and smoother. It really does smell like there's some tonka or vanilla in here-maybe both, but none are listed. It just smells like a lovely creamy clove (not cinnamon) scent now. Like a delicious milky spicy drink, but there's a lovely woodsy base that grounds the scent. This will be perfect for rainy days and winter. Then at the very end of the scent, about 5-6 hours later, the most beautiful vanilla scent comes out, like pure vanilla beans, and it reminds me of that wonderful vanilla in Lyonesse…it also reminds me of benzoin. Verdict: why, oh why, oh why did I decide not to get a bottle of this? I was thinking 'should I, shouldn't I?', thinking the cigar tobacco would be too heavy, and thinking the coffee would smell bitter and overwhelming. But now I've tried a decant, I pine for more. first, it is the most wonderful chai latte scent. the perfect amount of coffee and the perfect type of coffee-it's not bitter. The tobacco plays over the creamy spicy coffee with it's dry, smoky, crisp tones and the woods are dry and dark, but smooth. The coffee does fade and the scent becomes creamier, smoother, and something in here makes it smell beautifully sweet. is it tonka? Or maybe benzoin? or amber or vanilla? I don't know, but it is good, it smells both like a warm cup of milky vanilla chai (reminds me of the Nocturne Alchemy chai scents but with cinnamon instead of cardamom) and also like a deep and rich vanilla-amber/benzoin-tonka scent with a wonderful wooden backdrop. Think the golden vanilla extract scent of Lyonesse (without the mossy flowers) meets the woodsy tonka of Count Dracula and the tobacco-tonka of Perversion-sweet and luxurious and sexy! And it lasts for ages on me. I want mooooore…but it seems this one is on the 'most wanted' list and is quite a rarity…I'd rather not but it seems I'll need to save some Ebay funds for a bottle because it really is that magnificent. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? yes, and I'm kicking myself for not getting a bottle! And it's now becoming as coveted as some of the rarer, most coveted LEs… If you like this, try: Miskatonic University, Three Witches, Count Dracula, Ventriloquist's Dummy, Perversion, Lyonesse

Kelly Pool In the imp: Parma violets and washing powder. Smells like, yes, Numb, but sweeter. Wet on skin: it still smells like fizzy violet sweets and a fizzy white musk-ozone-soap scent. Dry on skin: this is an unusual scent! It smells like wool which has been washed and perfumed, cleaned wool-not the smell of the fabric, but it's texture, felt like and fuzzy, and the smell of the perfume/soap it has been scented with. The scent itself is violets with a fizzy white musk, a touch of ozone and a lot of powder. It smells like Numb or Yog Sothoth, but also reminds me slightly of the wet stage of Stardust (after it stops smelling of hairspray), it's a very retro perfume scent, but quite old fashioned. The wood is there, a soft hint of rosewood underneath it all, and it adds a hint of roses to the overall scent. After a while: the Numb-ish violet powder gets stronger and more powdery. It now smells more like washing powder with a whiff of old ladies' perfume, like a woolly scarf that an older lady wears. The rosewood is very strong underneath it, smelling floral and woody, also a little pickled as rosewood sometimes can smell, but it adds depth to this pale, powdery scent. The scent becomes a highly powdery 'old' rose over time, a dusty, faded, musty scent. Verdict: this really isn't my thing. It's wool that's washed in very strongly scented washing detergent, dusted with scented old-fashioned powder, and sprayed with old fashioned perfume. It reminds me of a scent that one of my old au-pair's used to have. A smell of dust and untidy home filled with lots of old nostalgic objects like little dolls and plates and trinkets that have been crammed onto wooden shelves gathering dust over the decades, mixed with washing powder and soap from the bathroom. There's a wooden aspect to the scent, and at drydown the rosewood becomes dominant and smells of roses-normally I don't mind that but in here it smells like a really old stuffy 'granny' rose scent, much too mature for me I'm afraid. This one will need to be swapped. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? no, it's a little too 'old fashioned' for me. If you like this, try: Numb, Séance, Pulcinella and Teresina, Taurus, Winter of our Discontent, Gha'agseblah

A Bold Bluff In the imp: honeyed cherry tobacco with a hint of sweetness. The honey-like scent here reminds me of Hellfire. Wet on skin: anise? Now I smell anise with tobacco, the bitterness of hops, and sweet smooth tonka. Dry on skin: mmm, this is actually not that bad! it smells oddly like liquorice, but the tonka here is gorgeous. The tobacco isn't the heavy, dark, cherry-scented tobacco from Hearth 04 or Herr Drosselmeyer, but a more sophisticated mix, less cherry like and more like a sticky, mushy mix of tobacco held with resin. The hops add a hint of booziness without smelling blatantly of beer. (Maybe that's adding that odd 'anise' smell too?) But the tonka is the star of the scent, smooth, sweet and gorgeous, it adds a lovely soft and almost powdered sweet base to the rich tobacco. After a while: the tonka really smoothes the scent out beautifully. I don't smell as much hops, the tobacco smells dark and 'chewy' (that's the best way I can describe it) almost like it's covered in caramel but doesn't smell like caramel…the tonka is this warm, soft, blanket of broad and full-bodied sweetness-like vanilla but more sophisticated-under the tobacco. In fact, as it dries down, it smells almost chocolate-like, or like some kind of posh chocolate filling, chocolates being eaten in a dapper gentleman's lounge, served with a pipe. It's that rich sweet brown scent which is almost gourmand but not quite. The tobacco shows up again when the scent fades, and it smells drier, more cigar like, at this point, it's lost the tonka sweetness. Verdict: this is a lot nicer than what I was expecting from the description. I thought the cherry tobacco notes in Hearth 04 and Herr Drosselmeyer were much too overwhelming and masculine, and I feared that the hops would smell like beer. But this is really nice-and the tonka is what makes it such a pretty scent. there's an odd liquorice scent to this at first but this then fades to leave a soft gummy tobacco scent, dark and slightly sweet but nothing really cherry-like to it. the tonka is amazing here, really sweet and rich and soft, gently powdery, like a non-foody vanilla, it rounds the scent up really nicely. This is a very nice mix of tonka and tobacco, both notes show themselves off at different stages, and the tobacco leaf drydown is almost reminiscent of crisp autumn leaves. This is a nice scent but not a favourite-not one to get more of but it was surprisingly good. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? not sure. It's an unusual scent and I like it better than expected, but I'm not sure I'd wear it much. If you like this, try: Gluttony, Perversion, Hellfire, Riding the Goat, Herr Drosselmeyer

The Unheavenly City In the imp: soft creamy sweetness with gardenia, maybe some night blooming jasmine. Wet on skin: oh dear, gardenia is turning harsh and gritty, but not overwhelmingly so. There's still that lush sweet floral aspect, like red musk and lotus, at the back. Dry on skin: mmm, this is nice! It does have that gritty gardenia note to it but not too much, so it doesn't distract. I'm tempted to call this 'Sacred Whore of Portland' because it reminds me of Sacred Whore of Babylon. There's a wonderful red musk background and it's almost fruity in here, definitely floral. It reminds me of the red musk and lotus (and dragon's blood?) combo from Blood Lotus, one of my favourites, although the sweet white floral here seems more like magnolia than lotus. it also reminds me of Hollywood Babylon, maybe there's a fruity note to this as well. After a while: oh, this is beautiful! The harsh 'evil gardenia' scent is gone now and I'm left with a beautiful, rich, sweet and creamy floral. It feels full and lush and plump and quite sexy, there's that red musk adding it's sensual depth. It really reminds me of Blood Lotus and possibly the Haunted Palace or La Belle au Bois Dormant, a heady floral, very feminine…the word that comes to mind is 'voluptuous'. This scent encapsulates that word perfectly. I don't get any of the roses that others get, nor do I get foody notes, but I think there's a bit of vanilla here making this sweet and luxurious-smelling. The musky magnolia-gardenia glory sticks around, and it smells like a creamy, blushing, glowing flower in a cocoon of musk. Verdict: at first I thought 'oh dear, gardenia of death! That's a good thing because it means I won't pine for this scent when it appears on Ebay!' but the drydown this has is wonderful. I smell the red musk, which bonds well with a bunch of heady, sensual white blooms like gardenia (which loses it's 'evil edge', thankfully), magnolia and jasmine, and a sweetness like vanilla. Very sensual and sexual-I agree with Beth's comment about it smelling like a whorehouse! This is rich and sexy and sinful in feel, it reminds me strongly of a few favourite scents of mine with that floral-fruity-musky-vanilla feel to it. The full-bodied floral scent becomes even nicer at drydown when it feels plush and lush with that sweet, raunchy red musk enhancing it. I really like this one but the harsh gardenia intro keeps me from loving it, and I find it similar to Blood Lotus and Hollywood Babylon, which I like better and are GC. At least my cash is safe-I'm keeping what I have and I'm fine with that. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? I don't need any more as I prefer a few other similar scents but I'm keeping my decant!

One to Tie, Two to Win In the bottle: mushed up leaves and wet crushed garden weeds. Reminds me of Cambienne with less blossoms and earth, or of Lush's grassy-scented stuff. Wet on skin: dandelions, crushed leaves and stems, herbs and grasses. Dry on skin: oh yes, this is good stuff. It's not the smell of mown lawns that I expected though-there's definitely a cut grass aspect but it's more like crushed leaves and stems and dandelions. it actually reminds me slightly of the crushed green leaves scent I get in other BPAL scents, and it reminds me ever so slightly of the greener aspects of Possets Cambienne. It's incredibly green and fresh, a little dewy, and a tad spicy, with a lovely yellow floral aspect, and a feel of warmth like summer sunshine. After a while: hmm, this now smells a bit like the lilac-bluebell scent I got from Poisson D'Avril (which turned weird on me, a bit bitter and waxy) with an added bitter-green scent. Very much like Envy's 'herbs' (I got no mint, lime or lavender in that scent). It really does smell like dandelions, crushed and mushed, but it also smells like other flowers and a bitter green stem scent…it's not a bad scent in any way, it's still realistic, but not as fresh as it smelt before. it does risk turning into soap though. The scent teeters on the brink of soapy and non-soapy. There's another flowery scent to this, almost like lily of the valley or bluebell, it's a slightly waxy floral scent. I now smell dried dandelions, dried up by the hot summer sun, the flower wilted and the seeds all blown away. I also smell dry grasses all around mixed with the remains of green notes and deep green bruised leaves, the grass now smells a little more realistic, I can almost envision a grass stain on my wrist when I smell this…but it's not the lawn scent I hoped for. Verdict: I love that smell of mown lawns, and I bought this one hoping it would smell like that, and bring back fond memories of playing in the park in the sunshine. The scent is pretty but it's not as wonderful and grassy as I hoped. It does smell grassy but it's not the perfect lawn scent I hoped for. I think there's more of a dandelion scent here, as well as some crushed leaves and herbs, which aren't grass, but smell very green and wet and fresh. The wet stage is very pretty, like dandelions in the summer sun, but I'm not keen on the drydown, when it turns oddly bitter and waxy, a little soapy as well, and reminded me of Poisson D'Avril which also didn't turn out as nicely as I hoped. Strangely it also smelt of dry grasses. It's a nice scent but didn't wow me as much as I hoped it would-and it faded pretty fast, the scent blowing away like dandelion seeds in the breeze. I feel bad saying that it's not living up to my expectations when many people are raving about it-oh well, hopefully the bottle will find a good home. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? just the decant-I don't need the bottle. If you like this, try: Garden Path with Chickens, Poisson D'Avril, Temperance, Envy

Queen Alice In the imp: soft sweet delicate posies of flowers, with an undertone of treacle and subtle booze. Wet on skin: so pretty! Now the carnations come out, as well as a touch more wine. Dry on skin: I really like this one! I smell the same wonderful carnation that was in Pink Moon 07, along with some other floral notes-I'm sure I can smell freesia in here. Maybe phlox too as it really does remind me of Pink Moon. I also smell something fruity and sweet almost reminiscent of plum/plum blossom, or maybe champaca or lily? There's also the wine, cider and treacle notes-the wine is nice and deep and red, the cider adds a lovely apple-y fizz to it and the treacle is being good and not taking over the scent, but it is adding it's dark sweetness to it all. After a while: there's a plum-like note to this, not sure what, but along with the carnation I get the impression of a lighter, pinker Frumious Bandersnatch in here. I still smell the soft florals (which are now very fruity-sweet), as well as the cider and wine and dark treacle. This is a complex mixture but the notes seem to mix very nicely, giving a light, dainty but booze-tinged fruity floral with a hint of spicy sugar. The amber seems to hold everything together, maybe that might be what's giving it that fluffy (white amber is a little airier than other amber notes, to me) yet rich sweetness. There's a moment when I worry that the sweet fruity-floral note will make this cloying but then that tones down, and the scent rounds off into a gorgeous pink carnation and freesia scent, a posy of scented flowers, kissed with spice and deepened by amber and red wine. But after a few hours, the scent does the most amazing thing. It could be skin chemistry doing weird things but this now smells like…a pink stargazer lily. Yes! I've been looking all over for a scent of stargazers in BPAL-the pink ones with that heady, spicy aroma, and none were perfect enough, not least the SN…this is the closest match I've found. Maybe there's a lily note in that posy of flowers. So as well as smelling of carnations, this smells like a bunch of pink fragrant lilies and I love it. At times it also reminds me of that Qliphoth oil that smells of lilies and carnations, and also of Morocco without the musk. And then it turns to almost all Pink Moon style carnation. Verdict: this is Alice, all grown up, the innocent milkiness replaced by deep rich wine and with a fuller, spicier carnation to it. At first this is a posy of fragrant blooms placed by glasses of red wine and fizzy cider, there's a touch of treacle but nothing cloying or heavy to it. The flowers I smell are the carnation and something strongly reminiscent of freesia and pink stargazer lilies, floral scents I adore and haven't smelt much of in BPAL, with something which reminds me of plum. The carnation here is wonderful-I love the carnation note that Beth uses these days, it reminds me of Lush Potion, and this scent is very reminiscent of Pink Moon 07. This scent is beautiful-there are stages where I worry that the fruity-floral scent will go out of control but the clove like carnation and that gorgeous amber background prevent this from happening. And there's a magnificent stage where the scent smells like stargazer lilies, and the drydown is very much like a more floral, carnation-heavy and musk-less Morocco, so this scent is really growing on me. I'm not getting a bottle yet though, because this is so similar to Pink Moon 07. At least I know what to get when I'm running low on that scent now. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? yes! I'll keep the imp, when my Pink Moon stash runs out I'll get more! If you like this, try: Pink Moon 07, Alice, Frumious Bandersnatch, Morocco, Hod, Ghagiel