PurringPulsar

Croquet In the imp: sour fruit sweets! This smells like lime and grapefruit, but a little sharper and sourer. It’s also a little peppery/spicy, oddly. Wet on skin: ooh, now the sage comes out along with nectarine! Dry: mmm, this smells like sweets! The citrus notes smell very sugary, which I like, they also smell like gummy sweets. The nectarine adds a ripe, juicy, peachy scent. Such a fun, summery fragrance, this is a smile in a bottle! However under all that candied fruit lie some deeper, grounding notes of sage and patchouli, a little bit of rose, and that lovely fuzzy musk that I recognise from other animal themed scents-with the sage and wood it reminds me of Buck Moon or Coyote…with pink sugar on top. This reminds me of Treat #1 with an earthy undertone. After a while: once the citrus notes fade, the scent is of pure powdery-woodsy pinkness. It’s almost dusty, I get roses and dusty pink woods in here now, but it does remind me of a batch of Baghdad I had which didn’t have the spice and amber-musk to it on me, but smelt of roses and powdery ‘pink woods’ and potpourri. Back to Croquet…the ‘powdery pink woods’ seem more suited to this scent, the musk makes that scent even fuzzier and the nectarine adds even more sweetness. Eventually this odd dusty stage does improve as the sugary nectarine strengthens a little (though this smells more like a peach-it’s fuzzy!) along with the sage, the scent still feels warm and velvety, and still pink, but has less of the odd ‘potpourri’ scent I got before. This settles into a soft, velvety but slightly powdery-dusty drydown of pink rose petals, peaches, pink sandalwood (not listed but it smells like sandalwood to me) with a brush of herbs and musk, all of which have a little sprinkling of sugar. A scent of pink and light brown…which becomes a little bit spicy after some time. Verdict: I'm not sure what to think about this-I like it, that's for sure, but I'm not sure if I love it yet. I love the start of the scent when the citrus notes just sparkle. The scent starts off a wonderful blend of happy lime and grapefruit and nectarine dancing over a gorgeous sage-patchouli-musk scent, with 'hedgehog musk'-turns out it's that same furry soft musk that I love from other scents inspired by mammals, like Buck Moon, Coyote, and the Groundhog. It reminds me of the sugary tangy fruity candy of Treat #1 over a soft and snuggly yet earthy base. But then the scent does something a bit weird. It turns to powdery pink rose potpourri and sandalwood. It reminds me of a batch of Baghdad I tried, with that same dusty, old-fashioned pink powdery sandalwood scent. And I wasn’t as keen on that Baghdad batch, I preferred the spicy, exotic rose and amber scent from my imp. This dusty pink potpourri phase does seem to fade, with the scent turning into a comforting fuzzy scent. It's nice, but I'm not sure whether I love this or not. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? I'll keep the imp around. If you like this, try: Enraged Bunny Musk, Baghdad, Treat #1, Rose Moon

The Knave of Hearts In the imp: buttery caramel and fruit. Reminds me of Cockaigne and Drink Me more than Eat Me. Wet on skin: oh, now I smell roses and berries coming out even more. This is delicious! Dry on skin: mmm, wonderful! It does have that buttery caramel note to it but it's not too overpowering now. It smells of roses, blackcurrants and pastry! I can smell rich velvety fruity roses, just like the ones in Rose Moon, mixing with a tart yet sweet blackcurrant filling (though this also reminds me of the blackberry note in Bitter Moon) with a wonderful warm undertone of crumbly sweet just baked buttery pastry. Not too buttery but enough to make the pastry smell delicious, and there's a layer of cooked sugar on top. This reminds me of the wonderful pie scent I got in Bloody Mary, but with currants instead of cherries. After a while: the rose really blooms after a while, along with the sharp currants (which smell like blackberries here-not the cat pee blackberries though!), and the two notes go beautifully together. There's a fruity aspect to the rose that mixes wonderfully with the currant, almost creating a 'rose petal jam' scent. The sweeter, foody notes underneath aren't taking over either, it still smells like pastry and baked sugar, and I want to bite myself. It's like Bitter Moon, but less bitter and less melancholy-this is indulgent, wholesome and warm. The slightly smoky, oven-baked scent of the pastry reminds me of Jolasveinar, but not as cloying. Eventually it becomes hard to tell the rose and currant apart, they've merged so well. it's lovely and tangy, a sharp currant sauce with deep red and purple roses. But they rest beautifully on that warm pastry crust, with maybe just a hint of cream. Some lovely sweet jam like tones appear in this scent every now and then, but it's not over-sugared. The end drydown is a gorgeous smooth 'rose pie', a mix of smoky pastry (like it's been baked in a traditional oven-but not burnt smelling!) with fruit and roses. Verdict: I love roses and I love Eat Me, and this is a wonderful fusion of foody and floral. I am reminded of Possets Indy 499, the 'peony pie' scent, only this one is a rose pie, and has a lot more oomph to it. at first I worried that this would end up being too foody on me but this wasn't so. It was perfectly gourmand and smelt exactly like a tart…crumbly golden pastry with just the right amount of butter, a glazing of brown sugar, and a gorgeous sour blackcurrant filling which cuts nicely through the sweetness. And the roses just go really well with it-there's a fruitiness to rose, and a sharpness, which mingles very well with the blackcurrant note, especially at drydown when it smells like rose jam. The great thing is that this is a heavily sugary and almost treacle like scent but it's not cloying or sickening like those scents can be. I love the MTP scents and their fun, light hearted nature, and I remember the Knave of Hearts poem fondly from childhood (when my big Lewis Carroll book was one of the most memorable books of my youth), I am definitely getting a bottle of this yummy rose scent! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? yes-and I need more! If you like this, try: Rose Moon, Bitter Moon, Hope, Eat Me, Drink Me, All Souls, Cockaigne, Two Five and Seven

Blue Moon 07 In the bottle: herbal bay, cool juniper, green galbanum, cucumber and a pale white dewy floral note. Wet on skin: juniper, bay, moonflower and cucumber. Very cool and clear. Dry on skin: oh, this is very pretty! I can't actually remember exactly what the original was like but I think it definitely had the same feel as this. The juniper is strong without smelling too pine-y or masculine. I can smell the cypress, the bay, sage and mugwort add a soft herbal feel, the galbanum and palmarosa add a spike of greenness, the cucumber is as cool as it usually is, and the floral notes of moonflower, orchid, ylang and iris are graceful, delicate, and pale. This, like the original, is a cool scent of the night, like what I'd expect moonlight reflected on water to smell like if that had a fragrance. It feels a lot more luminous than Black Moon, this is definitely a scent of silvery-white moonlight and indigo blue night skies. After a while: the floral notes seem to merge as the strong herbs and juniper fade, and now I can smell a pale scent reminiscent of the Asian moons, or of bamboo. Maybe those are the Asian woods? I still smell the moonflower, that crisp and bright floral, and also some cool aloe mixing with the cucumber. It's a bit faint but not too much, airy and light, but also a bit watery, dewy. The word 'ethereal' pretty much sums this scent up. The scent becomes a bit more floral, still with that zen-like scent of Asian woods and tea, there's something almost like Holiday Moon to this, though the fragile notes of iris and moonflower really do give this an Evening Star feel. ES is a favourite of mine, so the fact that I get a similarity here makes me happy. There's an almost reedy, dusty dryness that appears, almost powdery but not quite because the moist notes prevent this from smelling too dry or powdered. But it does feel very lunar to me, moon dust and dryness and all that…it is alluring and silvery and aloof. Verdict: this is a beautiful lunar scent-the ultimate moon scent. Mysterious, light, cool, pale and magical. I can't remember much about the first Blue Moon scent but I do think they are similar-there's that same ethereal, slightly wet, silver-blue and glowing feel to it. At first the scent is incredibly complex and spellbinding with warm herbs and woods really showing off along with the white moonlit blooms and wet cucumber. These herbal notes fade away after a bit and the scent becomes a serene and luminous fragrance of Asian woods and delicate flowers. I'm reminded of the Evening Star which is a very good thing, although this isn't purely floral like that blend, the soft woodsy notes and the cucumber add a different dimension. all in all this is a scent of the night, slightly chilly but not icy, dewy and calm, radiant and enchanting. The scent does become quite faint after some time but doesn't fade too fast, I like the gentleness of this scent and it's intriguing complexity. It's the perfect opposite to Black Moon which it shares similarities with, but this one is brighter and airier. I'm glad I have two bottles of this, it is the perfect full moon scent. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? yes! This is a beautiful tribute to the Blue Moon. If you like this, try: Midnight, Black Moon, Holiday Moon, Squirting Cucumber, Nuit, Evening Star

Rose Moon In the bottle: a rich, mature, fruity rose with honey. Like Lady Luck Blues' older sister. Wet on skin: a mature rose scent, grown up, almost traditional, but with something woodsy at the back. Dry on skin: beautiful roses with a patchouli base. The honey and Bulgarian rose give the scent a similar feel to Lady Luck Blues, only this isn't as sweet. I smell the dry crispness of tea rose accentuated with a citrus bite of lemon, and a hint of lilac pops up here and there, and I think I can just about make out a haze of opium. But it's mainly rose that rules the scent, and it's so good to have such a wonderfully rosy scent. After a while: the rose becomes fuller and richer and there's even a hint of something sweet and almost like fizzy lemon sweets behind it. This isn't a dusty, musty rose at all, but a youthful, sparkling one. I think I smell a hint of jasmine, but it's not the nasty jasmine that my skin hates, but a woodsy one. The patchouli is almost reminiscent of the one in Croquet, a soft and earthy scent. I don't smell as much of the honey or lilac now, just the bright and delightful rose with that woody background. there's a hint of something sweet which reminds me of the tonka in Bitter Moon, and I wonder if this could be the woodruff? I've not smelt that before but I learned that apparently it has a similar scent to tonka so that may be what this is. I get a hint of violet after a while, but it's not the traditional violet scent. There's also an almost berry like feel to the smoky rose, like the blackberry-rose-opium of Bitter Moon, but with much more rose and much less berry. The blend now feels rich and sumptuous, and brings to mind red velvet. Verdict: I've been looking forward to Beth making a new rosy scent which was very much dominated by the rose-I adore the complex rose scents but I wanted something truly rosy, with just a hint of something to back it up. and this fits the bill perfectly! Rose Moon seems like the more grown up, more regal version of Lady Luck Blues, with that same honeyed rose combination, a tonka-fruity base, only this scent is a tad rosier. Not a sharp rose like Peacock Queen, nor a cold one like Rose Moon, this isn't sugary like Hope or as giddy as Two Five and Seven. This is a warm summer rose, velvety petals, richly fragrant, surrounded by a lovely supporting cast of notes like lemon and honey adding a sunny touch, patchouli grounding the rose, soft dreamy opium and a sweet, mysterious note which makes me think of berries and tonka. (The tonka may be woodruff.) This is beautiful and elegant, but also approachable, not a 'granny/old fashioned' rose scent at all, with a bright crispness contrasted by a soft, sweetish-earthy depth. I love this interpretation of rose and I'll need to look for another bottle! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? yes! Another one to add to my collection of rosy beauties. I'll need to ask a will-caller to get another bottle… If you like this, try: Moon Rose, Hope, London, Croquet, Two Five and Seven, Bitter Moon, Knave of Hearts, Lady Luck Blues

Ecstasy of Infatuation In the decant: cherry-almond, grape, fruity floral notes, a sweet tropical cocktail of a scent. Wet on skin: cherry-almond with fizzing champagne and citrus notes. Dry on skin: whoa, this smells incredibly effervescent! Not just with the champagne and the fruits, but also the musk-it's an airy, bubbly white musk note. The cherry becomes more fruity and the grape note is dominant (it smells more like purple grapes with champagne now), the Hawaiian florals are also present-indeed, it now reminds me of fruity Pele. And Pele smelt like Alka Seltzer with weak floral notes on me…I smell the fizz from that scent but so far, the scent is quite agreeable. After a while: just like Pele but with sweet fruit. There's a hint of purple grape flavoured sweets to this, with a touch of white grapes, cherries and flowers. The sweet fruitiness reminds me of those Asian gummy sweets that I've received in swaps and forum sales. The floral scent though has become an oddly flat and chalky smelling scent like a hangover cure tablet fizzing in a glass with just a hint of flowers. It's a little disappointing, since the white musk note is very pretty, but it smells like fruit flavoured sweets and flowers drowning in tonic water. It goes disappointingly one dimensional and a little bland after a while (I really hate saying such things about BPAL, especially ones with lots of notes and with lots of potential to be unusual and complex, but that's skin chemistry for you), despite that white musk note. The drydown is pretty much like Pele, with white musk added. There's something almost blackberry or black raspberry like to it as well-a tart purple fruit which isn't cherry or grape. After a few hours of wear, it becomes a pretty, airy white musk with purple fruit and Pele flowers, but it seems a little faint now. Verdict: this is my least favourite of the Ecstasies, I'm afraid. It had promise, it started with a fizz and a sparkle, but it went flat on me, literally. It smelt very flat and plain despite it's pretty and complex notes. At first it reminded me pleasantly of gummy sweets, champagne and tropical blooms. It was very pretty and light. But then the florals turned a little bit strange on me…I'm one of the few who disliked Pele, and this reminds me of fruity Pele…a strangely bland floral with a hint of sugary fruit flavoured sweets. It had an odd fizz to it after a while-no longer champagne, and more like a tablet fizzing in a glass of water for soothing achy tummies or hangovers. I like the white musk that appears at the end but it's not worth waiting through a scent which my skin turns into a non-event, rather than the celebration it should have been, for that stage. Not an infatuation for me, I'm afraid! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? No, I'm not infatuated, sadly.

Tamamo No Mae In the bottle: peach tea with rice wine. It's sharply fruity…it also reminds me of the osmanthus scents. Wet on skin: white tea with a fruity, peachy, sweet undertone. Dry on skin: this is beautiful! It does smell very much like Hungry Ghost Moon-probably my favourite Asian themed scent-but this one has a strong tea note, a crisp, tangy white tea over a smooth fruity base. It reminds me of peach, or of osmanthus, or sugar cane, but those aren't listed. I can make out some sandalwood (which smells similar to the ho wood in HGM in here) but no smoke. Maybe the sweet smoothness is caused by the musk? The rice flower reminds me of rice wine. Overall, this is a surprisingly creamy-fruity and smooth and fresh scent, it's enchanting. After a while: the sharpness of the tea tones down a little, and the creamy-fruity floral base becomes even smoother. It now smells like a peach wine, slightly tangy but very fruity, but there's also a beautiful flowery scent to it, like no other floral I've smelt in BPAL so far. Is this the locust flower? If so, then damn, it smells magnificent (despite having a creepy-crawly name to it!), it doesn't smell like sweet pea but it smells sweet and luscious. The musk adds an almost velvety but pale smoothness, a touch powdery but not overly so, it makes me think of the pale makeup of geishas, and their graceful beauty. The wood adds a nice soft firm base for the other floral-fruity-tea notes to hang on to. It still reminds me of HGM but not as foody-sweet, though there's something here that reminds me of sugar cane, or maybe lychee. The scent seems to move between smelling tart and tea-like with fruit, and sweetly floral with cool musk. It reminds me of Aglaea at times, it has that sparkly feel, but less blatantly peachy, and more subtle and intriguing. It moves through stages of fruity, floral, tea like and skin-scented, sweet and crisp, dewy and lush. The drydown is a soft powdery pearly skin musk with sandalwood and fruity sweetness, but I now get a hint of smoke to it, like a Japanese incense stick burning gently, a subtle woodsy smoke scent. Verdict: Asian scents are hit or miss on me but some of the recent Japanese scents-specifically the lunacy shapeshifters-have been wowing me. First it was Bakeneko who made my life purr-fect, and now Tamamo has won me over with her foxy charm. I had no idea what this would smell like (other than smelling like Beth's Japanese scents) because I haven't smelt half the notes in here, but now I'm so glad I bought a backup bottle! She smells like a more sophisticated and aloof version of Hungry Ghost Moon. Whilst HGM was more complex and candied and had a feel of festivity to it, this one is less sugary, more grown up, and mysterious. A tang of tea replaces the grapefruit of HGM, but there's a similar fruity-sugar cane scent to it even though no such notes are listed. However, a stronger musk, more flowers, a peachy scent, and a slight hint of incense make this different. I have no idea where the peach comes from, or whether that lovely floral is the locust flower or rice flower, but I love this so much. light, graceful, fresh, enchanting, beautiful for the summer months, and very well blended. So far many of the lunacy shapeshifters (apart from Oborot) have been fantastic on me, and this is a new favourite of mine. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? yes! This is beautiful and I'm glad I ordered another bottle from a Convergence goer! If you like this, try: Hungry Ghost Moon, Itaso Kansei, Lantern Ghost of Oiwa, Fire Pig, Fae, Aglaea

Monster Bait: Ventriloquist's Dummy In the bottle: dark, peppered woody patchouli with a slight hint of nutty sweetness. Dusty woods are dominant here. Wet on skin: peppery, dusty woods with patchouli, reminiscent of the Rat King, but sweeter. Dry on skin: mmm, woods! This is a dark, rich, almost incense-like dusty wood scent with patchouli and sweetened by the sugary notes, with a hint of nuts. It's predominantly cedar, but there are some other fragrant warm woods here as well (oak maybe?), and they have an aged 'attic-like' feel to them, evocative of a wooden dummy that has been stored in the loft for years, covered in dust. The patchouli adds a deep, dark, shadowy feel. However, the sweet notes lighten the scent. It smells like lightly caramelised toasted hazelnuts, and the great thing about the caramel/sugar/butterscotch notes in here is that, unusually, they don't overwhelm the scent and turn it to 'all-consuming caramel of doom', they add the right amount of playful sweetness. I also smell the barest hint of dried apricots. I like this a lot! After a while: the hazelnut, woods and patch merge together to give a dry, faded, dark, old and dust-covered scent, which reminds me of the Rat King, but not as sour. Instead, there's a covering of brown sugar and a hint of treacle, the perfect amount, not intense like Gluttony, but enough to add a sweet twist to the dry scent of attic-stored woods. This sweetness also prevents the scent from smelling too 'musty' or masculine. The apricot used here is certainly not the syrupy or freshly picked apricot of other BPALs, this smells uncannily like dried apricots do-it's like Depraved with more patch than apricot. In fact, over time, this starts to smell more and more like dried apricots, tart and fruity, with sugared nuts in a fragrant wooden chest. The wood notes begin to smell less grey/pale and smell a bit warmer, almost like sandalwood, over time. Warm and soft and dusty, a little ashy like incense, and with a lot more patch. There's a hint of burnt wood at the end, like the wooden dummy has been singed a bit. Verdict: I like this one a lot better than I expected! I feared it would turn really masculine or really oversweet, I thought it wouldn't work at all. But it does work and it works wonderfully! It strikes the right balance of woods and sweetness with a shadow of patchouli. The woods really do evoke an old dummy stashed in the attic, dusty and faded, but this is a good dusty scent. the woods are strong and rich, fragrant and solid, but gender neutral. The sweet notes are so nice-I was expecting the 'million calories of death!' scent I got from Gluttony but despite three potentially over-sugary notes listed, they never take over. The nutty sweetness is just like a soft glazing of nutty caramel over the woods. the apricot, another note that can oversweeten, doesn't smell very sweet at all here, but smells like dried apricots. The patchouli shows up a little more after a few hours and the woods turn to a soft incense scent with a hint of dark sugary sweetness. This is a surprise hit from the Monster Baits, not my absolute favourite but definitely worth keeping a bottle, it's a new favourite in the 'heavily woodsy' scents…so far 6 out of 7 MB scents work well or wonderfully on me. I can't wait to see next lot of Monster Baits if there are more planned for next year! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? yes! I like this a lot more than I though I would-a perfect balance of woods and sugar. If you like this, try: Clio, Depraved, Rat King, Magus, Séance, Gluttony

Riding the Goat In the bottle: pickled olives and red wine? On second sniff it smells more like a glass of port on a polished mahogany table, in a room with walls made from polished dark woods. Wet on skin: after an initial blast of salted olives, the scent changes for the better by turning to a sweetish incense cologne with hints of polished wood. Dry on skin: tobacco and incense with polished wooden furniture. This is very much like Parliament of Monsters but without the opium haze, there's a similar tobacco-incense feel to it though, as well as that hint of olive I got from PoM and also Succour. But this is better than PoM, it's richer, darker, more sophisticated, also a little bit perfume-y. It brings to mind a mahogany panelled gentleman's lounge where pipes and incense have burnt, ebony tables oiled until they have a mirror like finish. The incense note in here is rich and resinous, a gorgeous dry incense blend, both similar and a little bit different from the church incenses-not as intensely frankincense-y, but definitely with frankincense and myrrh to it, a meditative and ritualistic scent. After a while: there's a hint of something like wine to this, or sherry. Something sipped at a gentleman's club. The hint of olive does get stronger and seems much more apparent when smelt from afar, but close to the wrist the darker woods and the tobacco (much less intense and not as sweet as Her Drosselmeyer or Hellfire) have become stronger. The scent really does bring to mind polished mahogany, it is refined and also evocative of old houses, wooden floors and panels and furniture. After about 2-3 hours, the olive scent disappears and the incense becomes beautifully sweet, and slightly ashy as well, like it has burnt completely, with that soft woodsy tobacco. The incense now reminds me slightly of Al Azif, but drier and less sticky. I love this stage most of all, it smells comforting and gentle but still with that ritual incense feel to it. There's a wonderful rich and sweetish myrrh note at the base here, like the one in Eshe, Priala and Minotaur, as well as something almost amber-like. This dark amber becomes the remaining note as the scent dries, it reminds me of the wonderful black amber in Schwarzer Mond's drydown. Verdict: another lovely addition to my collection of incense scents. At first I was unsure of this-there was a weird 'olive' scent to it which kept popping up, and only three other incense scents have turned to olives so far-Succour, Yule and Parliament of Monsters. I was worried that the olive like scent would overtake like it did in Parliament, but thankfully it didn't, as the woods and incense notes in here are gorgeous. The woods smell sophisticated, well buffed with a mirror like sheen, dark ebony and mahogany furniture, with a bare hint of pipe tobacco. But it's the incense I love most about this scent. a dark, dry, gently smoky and mysterious ceremonial blend, almost church like but not quiet, this is almost like the Pit and the Pendulum but without the strong frankincense, almost like Al Azif but not as sticky-sweet. But after about 3 hours-the resins go all sweet and dark, like a wonderful rich myrrh and amber combination. I think Beth has been using a delightful new myrrh note in a lot of her recent scents, including this, it smells dark and deep and sweet and amber-like. I love this woodsy-resin drydown most of all. The strange olive note at the beginning of the scent keeps it from being a true favourite in my incense collection but the drydown is worth the wait. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? yes, definitely keeping my bottle If you like this, try: Parliament of Monsters, Dee, Hellfire, Isaac, Al Azif, Pit and the Pendulum, Brown Jenkins

Bad Luck Woman Blues In the bottle: an unusual but very nice mix of caramel with spicy mossy woodsy cologne. This has the potential to be really good. Wet on skin: caramelised fresh green woodsy cologne. Dry on skin: oh, this is surprisingly good! It is a masculine scent, very much a cologne fragrance, but it's a wonderfully complex and unusual fragrance with many layers and notes. As well as caramel, I can smell hot sparkling pepper and soft sage, the lime, smoky and rich tobacco, and the same lovely moss and cypress combo from Roux Ga Roux (and like that scent, the Spanish moss here isn't turning to 'swamp monster of doom' on me!). It's a mix of herbs, spices, smoke and deep woods with a hint of lime, and it's all contrasted-yet complemented-by a topping of sweet, delicious caramel. It's not an overpowering caramel note, but it is deep and treacle like. I can't smell musk, vetiver or lilac yet. After a while: the moss comes out a bit more but all the other notes seem to restrain it so it doesn't overpower the scent. It becomes spicier, the pepper really tingles my nose, but it also smells greener-this scent is a rich green scent, like thick sprawling greenery, almost swampy but not humid, like Roux, this is a fresher take on the swampy scents. It's also very earthy and rich. It reminds me of the unreleased oil Kweku Anansi, but it is more complex. The caramel fades and the scent becomes darker, drier, deeper and woodsier, with the pepper, tobacco, cypress, moss and herbs becoming dominant. Dark green, hot, dry yet lush and complicated. At this point the scent moves away from being more gender neutral to being very manly. This would be so sexy on a guy, it feels dark and mysterious and smouldering. The scent becomes a little bit like a dark, viscous, almost tarry scent after some time, I think the vetiver may be doing this, though amazingly, I don't smell anything blatantly like vetiver here. It smells like a burnt pitch like resin with charred woods and tobacco…but it's not too bad as a scent. it still smells more like a man's perfume though. There's also something about it which is almost evergreen or forest like, almost like pine needles. And after about 8 hours (this stuff has serious staying power!) I can finally clearly make out the vetiver. It was always there, making this scent stick, but now I smell that husky, dark, gritty and earthy scent, and thanks to the tobacco, it has a very smoky feel. Verdict: this is a fascinating scent, it's very masculine smelling on me but very interesting as well. the first stage is wonderful-the caramel is strong at this point but it's not overtaking the scent, it's the right amount of caramel to add a gorgeous sugary sweetness to this mix of moss, spices, herbs, woods and earthy notes, a mix of green and brown scents, smoky and rich and with that gourmand twist to make it really interesting. I love this stage most, as it is really complex but also gender neutral-but over time, the scent becomes more and more masculine, smelling darker and less sugary, smokier, more mysterious, woodsy and almost pitch-like. It is heavier on the moss and vetiver (the vetiver here is strong but it's not the 'evil' variety, this one is smoother and sophisticated) and it reminds me of a good quality man's perfume. Something that would smell breathtaking on a guy, for sure, but despite the lovely just-dry scent, the drydown is a little too heavy and masculine on me. The scent lasts for ages, and it's one where the moss and vetiver don't overwhelm like they usually do. I like this scent and it's unusual mix of notes enough to keep a decant though. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? yes! It's a bit manlier than most but I like it a great deal to keep some. If you like this, try: Roux Ga Roux, Tiresias, Red Lantern, Arrival at the Sabbath, Bayou, Dance Macabre, Kweku Anansi

Poisson D'Avril In the bottle: a crisp, dewy, and bright spring floral. Smells like lilacs and wisteria, even though those aren't listed notes. Wet on skin: lilacs! I know, it's mad, because it's not listed, but I smell lilac in here, along with daffodils and bluebells. Dry on skin: this is very pretty! It smells like a whole host of pretty spring blooms and their leaves scenting the air. I smell daffodils and bluebells, and also wisteria and lilac. I have no idea what most of the other notes smell like but I don't smell the rose, sugar or honey-for now this isn't sweet at all, but very crisp and fresh, sharply green, but mainly a mix of bright and lightly fragrant spring blossoms and crushed leaves. It reminds me of Ostara without resins, or a less sweet Flower Moon. After a while: the sharpness does tone down a little but the honey and sugar don't seem to show up. the floral notes seem to have merged nicely into one soft white damp petal scent, reminiscent of spring blossom notes, with still that lilac/wisteria note in the background. However, it seems to be veering close to soapy territory. I just hope it doesn't cross that line. The scent does seem to become a tad soapy as feared…although it's more of a waxy petal scent. Now I am reminded very slightly of the drydown of Possets Cambienne (the early spring versions), there's that same yellow-pink spring blossom scent to it, but it doesn't have that fresh rainy-earthy scent. it fades fast as well, leaving a trace of bluebell and tulip behind, with a hint of soapiness. Then the scent turns to a waxy white lily scent, like calla lily, with lilac on top. Verdict: this was surprisingly disappointing on me. I really wanted to love this-I love spring scents, I'm an April girl, and I absolutely love Beth's sugared flowers and honeyed flowers, I was hoping this would be a little bit like Al Araaf or maybe Flower Moon. But I got nothing remotely sweet or honeyed, and no rose either. I got a lot of flowers, but not what I expected. I didn't know what half the floral notes in here smelt like but I was very surprised to get lilac and wisteria. I also got a lot of greenery, like the leaves and shoots of spring plants. It wasn't bad and I really quite liked the just-dry stage, even if it was a little too sharp for me at times. I was a bit let down by the drydown though-it turned to bitter lilac/wisteria, waxy white petals, and even that dreaded hint of soap that I was hoping wouldn't show up in this scent. And still no sugar, honey or rose. What a bummer. I don't hate the scent but I do prefer a lot of other spring scents-such as Ostara, and notably Possets Cambienne-to this one. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? It's pretty, but I think the bottle will be passed on. It's not as nice as expected If you like this, try: Ostara, Orpheus, Melancholia, The Ghost, One to Tie Two to Win, Arkham (Revisited), Garden Path with Chickens, Asphodel, Temperance

Lady Luck Blues In the bottle: a soft, sweet, fruity rose. Wet on skin: gorgeous honeyed rose lifted by peony and vanilla flower with fruity plum. Dry on skin: this is beautiful! It's a very gentle rose, with a touch of slightly sharp honey, sweetened by a deep tart-sweet plum note. The vanilla, tonka and benzoin may also be sweetening the scent up a bit, and I can also smell the iris and peony here and there. This is such a lovely scent-the rose takes the lead but it is cradled by sweet and fruity-floral notes. A very graceful and feminine scent. After a while: the rose note becomes a little drier and crisper, the honey note in here is almost like that of Osun, a real wildflower honey scent, slightly like honeycomb and rather tangy. This scent now reminds me of Jezebel meets Three Brides-the honeyed rose is reminiscent of Jezebel, but the rose-benzoin-vanilla flower combo is like that of Three Brides (without the amber and sandalwood). The plum adds a rich fruity fullness to the scent, and at this point it smells almost like a sugared plum, contrasting the sharpness of the honeyed dry rose scent. The scent becomes a lovely mix of sugared plum jam, dry rose petals and honey with a smooth tonka undertone. This is really lovely. And then the scent is a gorgeous sugar plum and sugared rose scent-gentler than Hope's sugared rose, it's like roses and plums drizzled with honey and sugar syrup. The drydown is what may actually be vanilla flower, a sweet, sweet floral note, with touches of plum and tonka and honey. Verdict: I love most of Beth's complex and luxurious rose-based scents, and this is another winner. Not as richly resinous or floral as most, this one has accents of sugary fruit and honey that I love. The rose is velvet-petalled, full and beautiful as usual, and it is glazed with a golden honey layer and surrounded by sugar plums-though not too sweet, because tonka and benzoin were adding sophisticated sweetness to the plum. the peony mingles with the rose and the scent is womanly and rich. there are times when the honey takes the lead, and other times when the sweet plum becomes the dominant note, and other times when the notes seem all equal. The different notes morph slowly and smoothly to show themselves off before the scent ends off on a sweet and gorgeous mix of benzoin-tonka-vanilla sweetness supporting honeyed rose and plum. This reminds me of Jezebel, but it's a lot nicer and a lot more subtle than Jezebel. I'm not sure if it’s a favourite among the rosy-complex-floral-orientals I have but I love it, and I think some of the notes will mature nicely with age. A definite keeper! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? yes! I think this will age gorgeously as well. Definitely keeping one bottle, I'm not sure if I need two bottles, but this is going to grow on me, I think. If you like this, try: Rose Moon, Jezebel, Three Brides, Magdalene, The Empress, Osun, Hope, Dolce Stil Nuovo

Monster Bait: Bloody Mary In the bottle: mmm, smells like a fruity cake or pie-I can smell the buttery sugar coated crust, and a filling of berries and cherries! Delicious! Wet on skin: now I smell more of the cherry, which smells almost like baked cherries than fresh ones. Still very sugary as well. Dry on skin: mmm, this smells yummy! This smells like cherry pie! I smell cherry sauce-this is a much sweeter cherry than usual-not a sour cherry, with hints of currants and maybe even raspberry (yay, raspberry!), surrounded by warm pastry and topped with sugar! this is so wonderfully dessert-like, I want to eat myself. I'm amazed at how much I smell like a cherry tart right now. The cream…what cream? I can hardly smell it. I just smell fruits and sugary pastry. At times the cherry-sugar combination reminds me of lollipops, and I love that. After a while: the pastry note fades away leaving behind the sugared cherries and hints of other fruits-but cherry dominates. It now smells more like lollipops than it did before. Loads of sugar, almost tooth-achingly sweet (but still delicious) with cherries. This is what I was hoping Jailbait would be like-that turned medicinal and smelt like cherry cough syrup. This on the other hand smells just like sugared cherries-or more likely, cherry flavoured sugar. It's such a fun scent! The scent that remains after a few hours smells like I've spread sugary syrup or pink-coloured sugar crystals on my arm, or even rubbed a lollipop on my wrist, and the sugar has just crystallised on my skin. It's a pink and sugary scent, reminding me both of Treat #1 and Aunt Caroline's Joy Mojo, that sugary cheerful scent with a touch of fruit to it. There may even be a hint of sugar plum to it, as it reminds me of Midwinter's Eve as well. I also smell a lovely vanilla-cream note, this is a good cream. Verdict: this scent is so much fun, sugary and silly and full of smiles. At first, my favourite stage is when the scent reminds me of a cherry pie or tart, a gorgeous cherry-dominated red fruit and berry sauce surrounded by crumbly, lightly buttered and sugary pastry. Warm and baked and delicious, this smells so yummy. The drydown smells equally foody, just as edible but a lot sweeter…the scent turns from baked cherry tart to a cherry flavoured lollipop scent, lots and lots and lots of sugar with a sweet cherry flavour. Very sugary, almost enough to bring on the cavities, but the cherry note is a lot more realistic than most-not medicinal, not plastic-y. It's also a much sweeter cherry note. I was disappointed in Jailbait but this makes up for it. It smells really lickable and there's even a hint of creamy 'Underpants' vanilla at drydown-I really like the vanilla/sugary base of the Monster Baits. It's not my favourite of the recent Monster bunch-the high sugar content of this scent will be too much for some days, but I can't refuse such a fun fragrance for those days when I want to smell like a lollipop. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? yes! Definitely keeping the bottle-don't need another as it is a bit too sugary-sticky sweet for everyday but perfect for those sugar cravings. If you like this, try: Jailbait, Aunt Caroline's Joy Mojo, Xanthe, Knave of Hearts, Midwinter's Eve, Monster Bait Closet, Montresor

13 (April 07) In the bottle: a herbal-spicy-floral chocolate scent. Non-foody chocolate. Wet on skin: mmm, now I smell camomile and sandalwood, something almost like grapefruit as well, and spices. Dry on skin: call me crazy, but I'm getting grapefruit and ginger in this scent! I have no idea why but there's a definite citrus tang to this chocolate scent like there was in the other 13s. The chocolate is the dominant note-bitter cocoa and a hint of creamy white choc, mixed with spices and herbs and fig. I think that sharp scent may be catnip, but I may be wrong. The cardamom is nice and strong though, as is the fig, whilst camomile adds a dry, golden, hay like scent. This is a very intriguing chocolate scent-not as foody as most, it's almost like a spicy hot chocolate drink with herbs added, like some kind of magic brew. After a while: oh, wow! Now it smells amazing! It reminds me of another BPAL, but I can't remember which one, but it's one of the spicy scents. I think it may have been a Chaos Theory? This smells like wonderful cardamom sprinkled with pepper with herbs and smooth camomile and sandalwood, it's not as chocolate-y now but there's still a trace of it. It makes me think of desert bazaars now-it's spicy and dry and hot and unbelievably exotic. Like the smell of spices and herbs wafting from the stalls, exotic smells and dry heat. It also reminds me of Indian spices-though not too much that it makes me smell like a curry. The heat of the spices does die down a little to leave an earthy, almost dirty (good dirty!) herbal-spicy scent with just a hint of creamy chocolate. It almost seems like there's something almost musky, honey like or mossy at the base as well. And now I think I've just realised the BPAL that this scent reminds me of…Great Sword of War. It has that same feel of hot spicy-herbal cocoa to it without as much musk. The cocoa gets stronger as the scent dries, and it's not a sweet chocolate, more like the darkest of dark chocolates, or pure cocoa powder. With that spicy aspect, it reminds me a little bit of Tezcaltipoca and Green and Black's Mayan Gold chocolate now. After a very long time, it definitely smells honeyed or beeswaxy now (where's that coming from?), and a bit mossy. It reminds me of a CD scent or two, maybe a cross between Wulric and Faiza? Verdict: I love the 13 scents, and this is another winner. Totally different from it's predecessors, this one is unusual and innovative, not your usual chocolate scent. This is like a hot chocolate drink mixed with exotic spices from faraway lands and distant bazaars, but it feels less like a cosy drink, and more like a potion of some kind. It's almost like a mysterious blend of healing herbs mixed with spices and added to cocoa to make the ultimate witches' brew. There's something really magical about this scent, it sparkles and crackles, spellbinding and enchanting. Something about this scent intrigues me and fascinates me. It seems to fit in more with the concept and the name of '13', hinting at superstition and lucky herbs and charms and magic, it feels powerful and almost like a ritual oil. The spices in here are fantastic, the cardamom especially, whilst camomile and sandalwood give the scent a golden dryness, and there's something honey or musk like that appears at the end. it's not a foody chocolate either. This is definitely something that would smell wonderful on cold winter days, thanks to it's cosy cocoa and warming spices, but I love the bewitching vibe I get from this. I'm glad I got two bottles of this and I can't wait to see what other interesting chocolate scents the next few Friday 13's bring us! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? yes! I love the 13s so far and this one is another winner. If you like this, try: Great Sword of War, Tezcatipoca, Velvet, Wulric, 13 (original), 13 (Oct 06)

Taurus 07 In the bottle: a herbal-spicy rose and mint scent with violet. Wet on skin: minty thyme and rosy violets. It smells very herbal and fresh and flowery. Dry on skin: mint and thyme. This smells like the herb patch in a sunny spring garden on a warm day in May…much like today. It's mainly mint, thyme and violet now, a warm and green scent, almost traditional and demure thanks to the violet and rose but with a fresh lightness. I make out hints of apple blossom too. I do smell something almost woodsy grounding the scent-it is a very earthy floral, like flowers on wood-chip soil with herbs. Something about it also hints at gardenia, even though it doesn't have that sharpness to it. After a while: as the mint fades off and the thyme becomes a little more discreet, the rose shows off a little bit more, mixing with the violet. Now this reminds me of Ephemera or Ouija, maybe one of the old Victorian themed scents with rose and/or violet in it. A very traditional scent, I think. But it still has that freshness and that outdoorsy scent to it, it's not a dusty, stuffy violet-rose like some can be. And there's still that scent of dry earth or woods to it. The scent then turns to a dusty violet-rose powder with an almost old fashioned herbal potpourri, stored in a wooden box. Apple blossom is one of those notes that can be really pretty, like a floral-fruity scent, or smell of dry petals, and the blossom here smells dry. There's something to this strongly reminiscent of camomile-the daisy perhaps? I also smell some poppy, a wispy and dry mild opium scent. it becomes drier and more old-fashioned smelling as time passes, reminding me of a faded bouquet. Verdict: at first, I really like this. it's an earthy floral scent-the mint scent at the start is strange but not unpleasant, and then I get a lovely herbal rose with a posy of wild spring flowers resting on soil and damp woods and tree bark. It does seem apt for Taurus, it is earthy but also smells a little bit like the Venus oil, with it's rose and mint, only with a more complex herbal mix. The scent does turn a bit old fashioned over time though, as the violet takes over. Sometimes violet is lovely and can add a pleasant powdery and aged feel to a scent but sometimes it's too much and the scent smells musty and old, like a 'granny' perfume. sadly, the violet overtakes this scent and it becomes too old and faded and with a powdery aspect I'm not keen on. The rose note isn't as strong as hoped despite it's appearance at the start. I'll keep a decant because I have Mars in Taurus and this could be used for a purpose somehow, but I don't need a bottle. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? not sure. I like the first hour of wear but not so keen on the drydown. Will keep a decant. If you like this, try: Ephemera, Marie, Ouija, Despair, Lucy's Kiss

Poisoned Apple In the imp: crisp, wet, sweet red apple. No poison yet! Wet on skin: the apple note does that weird thing on my skin, turns to a kind of 'cider mousse'. Dry on skin: sharp, biting apple. This is a very tart apple, not as sweet as the scent was before it went on the skin. it is very much like Punkie Night or the Hesperides, pure apple, but the apple note is a bit odd on me-it turns to this kind of foamy cider scent, or like that 'appletise' drink, a very sharp and fizzy apple, but with an odd fermented feel to it, not the scent of a fresh, sweet red apple. I still don't smell the poisons, but the scent is becoming bitter and sour and sinister. After a while: still apple cider, even more cider like now as I smell it fermenting, ripening and becoming a little boozy. It is very similar to Punkie Night now, only with a spike of something green-herbal to it, probably the hemlock. There's a little bit of something faintly floral, maybe the oleander, but I don't get opium, which is odd because usually opium really stands out in a scent. I'm surprised at how long the apple sticks around, after about 2 hours, the scent is still predominantly apple (though it smells very fermented now) but there's not much in the way of opium or hemlock. The apple does smell 'dead' now, like it's crisp and sweet on the outside but with a feel of death on the inside, the flesh of the fruit has been poisoned. After a long time, the 'dead apple' still remains, but now the scent is more like a dried white flower (oleander?) with a hint of opium smoke and poppy petals, and a green, earthy touch of hemlock. Verdict: it's dawned on me that scents that are too heavy on the apple aren't going to work that well. I've had that suspicion since I tried Punkie Night, but a lot of scents that I love have apple in them (Les Bijoux, Bilquis, Samhain etc) but apple without enough complexity or depth means that the apple goes bizarre on me. and this happened here-it smelt like an odd mix of fizzy apple juice, cider and a weird 'foamy' scent which was fruity and maybe floral but not like apples, and then turns overripe or fermented. Having said that, this scent really does capture the idea of a poisoned apple perfectly. Smelling sweet and tempting in the imp, it then sharpens and has a tangy, almost acid tartness. And then the poisons start to appear…and the apple dies. The apple smells like it is dying, fermenting, a sweet rot, there's a definite feel of decay on the drydown of this scent. The opium is surprisingly quiet here, which was a surprise, but the poison notes subtly warp the apple into something sinister. It's not a scent I like to wear but it feels very appropriate for the concept. An apple that is fresh and appealing on the outside but rotting and deadly at it's core. Not my kind of perfume but a spot-on conceptual scent. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? no, I prefer the more complex apple scents. If you like this, try: Hesperides, Hemlock, Ladon, Verdandi, Punkie Night, Harvest Moon

The Agony of Heartache Purple sage, red patchouli, blackberry, lemon blossom, and lime rind. In the decant: sage-y blackberry, like Bitter Moon or Bewitched meets the Oblation. Has the potential to go either way. Wet on skin: oh no, this seems to be the blackberry note that turns to cat pee on me... Dry on skin: cat pee. That's pretty heartbreaking. The scent is predominantly blackberry, not the nice Bitter Moon one but a blackberry which doesn't like my skin. The scent is definitely reminiscent of Bitter Moon and Bewitched thanks to the sage, which is the same fuzzy warm sage from Corazon. The lime adds a sharp, crisp tartness and makes the blackberry note even more acidic, the lemon blossom is more delicate, almost like lemon fruit meets orange blossom. The patchouli adds a lot of depth and darkness, but sadly, this blackberry, bitter and sour, smells like blackcurrant fruit pastilles mixed with 'essence of feral tomcat'. After a while: bad kitty has sprayed all over the sage shrubs, it seems. The lime and lemon fade and the blackberry, with that dark patchouli undertone and sage, is dominant. Sure, it does smell fruity and juicy, very sharp like real blackberries usually are, but I still can't get over the way my skin chem warps this into feline urine. The sage comes out a little more, it's a balmy sage, almost spicy, very warm-definitely a desert sage note. But it doesn't detract from the 'bad kitty' blackberry which is still prowling the scent. The blackberry does eventually leave, with a soft smudge of incense-like sage lingering. I really like this sage stage. It smells like warm evening air scented with herbs and a bit of smoke. this is after a few hours of evil blackberry. Verdict: this is my least favourite of the A/E scents, and I knew from the start that the blackberry would turn on me. And turn on me, it did, oh boy. As soon as this hits my skin, it smells like a tomcat had just marked his territory on my wrist. And not by rubbing against me. This was like the Oblation, a mix of herbal blackberry which smelt less like a wild bramble bush growing into a herb garden, and more like some stray kitty had sprayed all over the herb patch. The sage note was lovely and warm and I really like the way it turns to incense and that 'warm summer's evening' scent after a few hours, but throughout most of the scent's duration, cat-pee blackberry rules over the scent. There are some blackberry notes I like, but some I don't, and this one is one I had to pass on to someone else. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? no. I love cats, but not smelling of their pee.

The Agony of Loss In the decant: woodsy-herbal-green and oddly fruity lavender. Wet on skin: mmm, this is interesting. It's now really woody and lavendery, but with a feel of incense. Dry on skin: this smells really nice. It actually reminds me of something from Lush, one of their lavender ballistics, it's a soft woodsy lavender incense scent with a hint of something floral, lemony and spicy to it-I have no idea why it's lemony-spicy or floral but there you go. The smoke of burning love letters isn't as apparent as I expected-far from it being a burning paper scent, it mingles with the fragrant sandalwood to make a lovely incense scent, whilst the cedar gently enhances the softly fragrant wood feel of the scent. To me this is less of a burning and bitter scent, and more like a wooden chest where old love letters are stored, fragranced with lavender sprigs and sandalwood chips. There's even a hint of something like a tropical white flower to this, like plumeria or something Hawaiian, as well as a soft greenness, like soft wet leaves, herbs or moss. After a while: this becomes even more beautiful with time. The lavender fades but the scent becomes brighter and softer, still woodsy but also more fruity and floral notes with a soothing backdrop of herbs and smoke. I get a feel of sunlight shining through leaves through mist. There's something very calming about this scent. I don't know why but this reminds me of a perfume or a room scent I remember smelling in France as a child, maybe it was a perfume or a lotion or a room freshener/scented candle or even the scent of something one of my aunts used to wear. All that I know is that it smells familiar. (according to the above review, it seems it's not just me who gets childhood memories from this scent!) The scent becomes softer, more floral, and even comforting, there's a hint of powder to it now, and it brings to mind a warm scented blanket. It feels reassuring. I think this would work as a sleep scent. Verdict: I was very surprised by this scent-I was expecting herbal, moody, woody, smoky and burnt, or maybe something forest-like. But I got something truly glorious-incense, gentle soothing lavender, and a glowing core of a sunny fruity-floral I can't identify. At first the lavender is strong, but it's not overwhelming, but a soft lavender with a gorgeous woody background. This sandalwood-cedar scent smells warm, dry and solid, a nice firm background for the herbs. But then I get a wonderful scent which is almost lemony, almost flowery, almost tropical and lush but not quite…is this lemony-herbal softness the armoise? Is this unidentified exotic floral the awapuhi? I don't know but I love it-something about it seems to jog a pleasant memory that I can't grasp, but it's a happy memory. It smells bright and calming. The burning love letters was another surprised-far from smelling like charred paper, it gave the whole scent an incense like aspect (especially with the sandalwood) which made it even more perfect. Far from being the melancholy, bitter, harsh scent I expected, this seems almost like a scent made to soothe feelings of loss, like a warm hug, it comforts and relaxes, this is one of those perfect calming fragrances that make the agonies in life a little easier to bear. Beautiful! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? yes! So glad I won a bottle on Ebay!

The Ecstasy of True Love In the imp: patchouli and peach, like Imp, but with a little citrus too. Wet on skin: patchouli and peach, and a little more of a floral note, probably honeysuckle. Dry on skin: this is very pretty! It smells of peach, patchouli and honeysuckle with a hint of mandarin and frankincense, maybe some carnation too. It smells earthy and dark but with a fruity-floral brightness on top, which makes for an interesting contrast. The patchouli with fruit smells almost like that 'fruity autumn musk' scent I get in a lot of BPALs, come to think of it, there's usually patchouli in those, it is very nice and rich, and reminds me a little bit of the patchouli-plum/musk-plum combinations as well. After a while: the patchouli becomes a bit stronger, a little drier and reminds me of autumn leaves, earthy and crisp, but also with a burnt smokiness like incense or a hint of bonfire-though the frankincense may be what's making this a bit like incense. The fruity-floral of the peach and honeysuckle are still strong though, rich and plump and juicy smelling and resting on a base of autumn leaves. This really is an interesting scent blending summer and autumn together. The scent becomes rather musky as it dries, and oddly, I smell honey and figs on the drydown, like a mix of dried peaches and figs with honey and patchouli and autumnal musk. It's a much dirtier scent at this point, very earthy and deep, very much like Depraved, there's a slight sexual quality to it. It also reminds me of Lot and his Daughters without the lemon and heavy resins, or of Hellion, the peach seems almost like plum now…and the drydown after about six hours is patchouli-musk and honeyed figs and peach, like a darker version of Cupid Complaining to Venus. Verdict: this is a very pleasant fruity-patchouli scent, dark and deep, like a more complex version of Depraved or Imp. A lovely mix of wet, juicy and fruity peach blossom with darker patchouli, and floral notes of honeysuckle and warm carnation, to me this smelt like a very pretty mix of summery and autumnal notes, a floral-fruit scent with a grounded patchouli aspect. The scent became a little dirtier and muskier over time, with that lovely 'fruit-patchouli-musk' drydown becoming stronger and dominant as the flowers faded, it became more and more like Depraved. The most interesting stage was at the end when I started getting some musk, moss, honey and fig notes coming out, making this a very earthy, dirty scent, with a touch of something sexual to it and a hint of incense. Whilst Passion was a more sophisticated aspect of ecstasy, velvet and jewels and silk sheets and all, this is a more raw, natural, spontaneous expression of love, a quick naked rough and tumble outdoors, with that feel of 'fertility ritual' that Luperci had. I like this but I was hoping for more frankincense, and the scent was very similar to a few other BPAL scents with patchouli and a fruit note, which I do prefer. It's a great scent but I'm not as smitten by this scent as I thought I'd be. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? it's not bad, but it's not 'true love' either.

Lemongrass In the imp: lemongrass! That powerful, pungent citrus scent, it smells like lemon sherbets, this is a sweeter take on lemongrass. Wet on skin: now it smells just like lemongrass e.o. Dry on skin: powerful punchy lemongrass, pure and simple. Very much like my essential oil. That scent of lemons on steroids, intense and shrill, strongly reminiscent of Thai food and those lemon scented warm serviettes they serve after you've eaten at a Thai or Chinese restaurant. It does take over scents. No wonder this is the dominant note in Concentration, no wonder my teacher used to burn lemongrass oil in science lessons. If normal lemon scents are like sunshine, this is a supernova. Explosive and attention grabbing. I'd imagine mosquitoes would be terrified of this scent. After a while: it's still strong, it does turn a little bit 'gritty/dirty', a little greener, a little oily, more herbal and more bitter over time, but it is still a powerful citrus scent, still has that lemony kick to it. It becomes almost soapy at the end but not as much as verbena. Verdict: yup, this is pure lemongrass. Very much like my essential oil. It's a nuclear lemon scent, loudly lemony, pungent and intense, this yells through my nostrils with it's citrus-on-steroids scent, this stuff is incredibly potent and feels like like a lemon fisted slap in the face saying 'WAKE UP!', it knocks any fuzz that is clouding my brain out and makes me think of intense studying thanks to my physics teacher endorsing lemongrass as the ultimate scent to revise by. It is really overpowering but also invigorating as a scent. It's also sweeter than pure lemongrass e.o. and smells like sherbet. But a little too much for me. I like lemongrass in small amounts in my scents (love it in Shoggoth, Gennivre and a few others) and it works wonders as a scent for study, concentration and getting up early-and scaring off bugs. But for wearing, it's very strong stuff which I prefer in moderation in a blend-not as a single note perfume. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? no-I prefer it as a note in a scent. It's a very good quality lemongrass though.

Pineapple In the imp: pineapple, but a sweet, sugary, almost plastic, almost like pineapple sweets than real pineapple. I smell a whiff of those spongy banana marshmallowy things you get at the pick n' mix. Wet on skin: highly sugary pineapple flavoured sweets. Dry on skin: pineapple and banana flavoured sweets, this is incredibly sugary, almost effervescent, very youthful but a tad artificial. It reminds me of theme parks and funfairs, like one of those sweets you get there, it also smells like those generic 'Tropical' soft drinks, not really a true pineapple, in fact this smells like a mix of synthetic tropical fruit flavours found in kid's drinks and sweets. Definitely a sweet, childlike scent, bouncy and flashy, neon coloured. Oddly, there's a strange vetiver undertone to this as well. After a while: the slight sharpness that I detected at the beginning, like bubbles of soda, disappears. Now the scent is still just like those 'tropical' jelly sweets, with that marshmallow fluffy cheerfully synthetic scent, but still with a weird vetiver undertone, and also a drop of bitterly medicinal cough-syrup cherry flavouring. Not what I expected from pineapple. The drydown I get from this is a really bizarre 'candied vetiver' scent, like that almost cherry-syrup sugar drizzled over dark green murky vetiver with a touch of dragon's blood, or something along those lines because this reminds me of Serpent's Kiss now. Verdict: this one was a bit of a disappointment and a surprising one at that, since I love a lot of the lab's pineapple scents (Mi-Go, Shango). Considering how realistic and true most of the Lab's scents are, I was expecting fresh pineapple or pineapple juice, or even a coconut-less pina colada type scent, but what I got wasn't recognisably pineapple at all. My skin turned this scent into a weird mishmash of artificial 'tropical fruit' flavours like the things you find in those e-number filled kids' drinks or those jelly sweets, a strange mix of synthetic pineapple and banana and mango and some other indistinguishable fruits, with a spike of cherry cough syrup, and the most unusual thing of all, vetiver. Nothing like pineapple to me. it's odd since I definitely smell pineapple in scents which have this listed so I'm not sure why this note doesn't work on it's own. It's just a really weird, dissonant and artificial scent on me…I think I'll swap this off. Hopefully this reaction won't happen with any future pineapple scents that I try! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? no.

Squirting Cucumber In the imp: smells just like a cold, wet slice of freshly cut cucumber, with a hint of grassy greenery! Wet on skin: smells just like I'm making salad, like lettuces and cucumbers. Dry on skin: cucumber salad served out in the garden! This smells very accurately like a cucumber should, not one of those fake cucumber scents, it smells fresh and moist and green and cool, I smell the skin of the cucumber as well. There are hints of grass and other green notes, and it does remind me of salad greens as well. It smells like a salad at a picnic, sitting outside on a lawn, fresh green vegetables-cucumber and greens and lettuce. After a while: the cucumber doesn't lose it's cool but it doesn't smell as wet as before. Now it smells a bit creamier, but also a little chalky or waxy, like white petals and wet plaster. It's not a bad scent though-now it reminds me more of the scent of those cucumber moisturisers, like cucumber and greenery over a base reminiscent of moisturising cream, with a hint of chalk and waxy white flowers. Verdict: at first this was the truest cucumber scent ever. It was pure single note cucumber. Right down to the skin, the greenish scent of cutting a cucumber for a salad, maybe with hints of greens and lettuce, but mainly cucumber. Wet, cool, fresh and juicy, green and mouth-watering, this smells just like eating salad on the lawn on a summer's day. A salad without dressing, thankfully (though I am tempted to layer this with a lemony-herbal scent to simulate non-vinegary dressing). I like this stage but it becomes a more 'cucumber lotion' scent as it dries, reminding me less of fresh cucumbers and more of those moisturisers with cucumber fragrances, right down to the odd waxy-chalky scent I get with those lotions-it could be a floral note. It's still pretty and fresh but not as wet, and a little more perfumey at this point. I do like the fresh stage better, but I think I prefer cucumber as a component in a complex scent and not an almost single note (this is pretty much Cucumber SN on me) as it smells a little too much like salad/yoghurt-less raita dip to me. However I think it will make a lovely scent to layer with or add to lotion bases for summer, as it smells so cool and watery and perfect for hot weather, and I love the way cucumber smells wet without smelling 'aquatic'. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? it's remarkably true for a cucumber scent, but I prefer cuke as a scent component in more complex blends. This will make a lovely scent for an after-sun lotion...it'll be perfect as an addition to aloe vera gel. If you like this, try: Blue Moon, Black Moon, Nuclear Winter, Tulzscha

Voodoo Lily In the imp: a dark, slightly medicinal-boozy, spiced lily. the spices are reminiscent of the 'voodoo spices' from the voodoo blends and possibly the TALs too. Wet on skin: hmm, interesting. I smell grapefruit in here (wtf? I got grapefruit in 13 '07 as well…maybe one of those voodoo spices smells like it) as well as spicy, exotic lilies. Dry on skin: mmm, this one's intriguing. I have a cold so my review may not be reliable, and I seem to be getting hints of medicinal 'throat pastille' fruit notes, like mentholated blackcurrant. But this does fade. I smell spicy grapefruit and creamy floral notes…in fact, this smells just like 13 (April 07) with the chocolate/cocoa notes replaced by lilies! It's that same mix of hot, magical spices, the same grapefruit-like tang (I wonder if that's caused by grains of paradise?), the same dry, exotic feel, but less sweet and chocolaty, and more floral. I think there's definitely some cardamom in here as well. After a while: the hints of 13 seem to fade away and oddly, the scent becomes more fruity. It still has the cardamom-like peppery spice, but it's not turning into that wonderful 'desert bazaar' scent I got in 13, there's something almost lemony in this scent but it's a medicinal lemon/berry which reminds me of Strepsils or Lemsip. Of course, that could just be my cold influencing things but it's a little bit bitter smelling now. I also smell more of the lily, which reminds me of Black Lily but not as rich or sweet. it has the same cold, metallic feel that fresh BL has (aged BL is richer and more floral). And I think I smell something underneath that I've noticed in a lot of voodoo-linked scents…vetiver. The scent becomes a really weird medicinal fruity-floral, reminiscent of cough syrup and sore throat remedies, with a greenish-herbal scent underneath which feels almost mossy but not quite, it makes me think of the green scum found on ponds. I'm sure there's vetiver here as well. The spices are gone now. This smells strange on me, almost like dish soap meets flowers. The drydown gains a bit more of a pleasant flowery edge but it still smells odd. But then it fades away fast. Hardly anything is left after a few hours. Maybe there isn't vetiver in here-usually vetiver lasts for an eternity on me…unless it's a lighter vetiver. Verdict: this one was bizarre on me. Ok, my nose isn't working properly so that might be why, but I don't think I like this much. At first I thought that the name really fitted the scent, as it was lily mixed with spices that I've encountered in voodoo themed scents or ritual blends. It felt charged and potent and full of magickal spices. At one point, hot, bitter and grapefruit like spices and herbs surrounded the lily in a sparkling haze of spellbinding fragrance…I thought this was the lovechild of 13 and Black Lily. It seemed really promising…but then it turned into a very strange, bitter medicinal scent. It reminded me of a sort throat remedy or a Lemsip, that odd menthol blackcurrant and lemon scent. The floral note, still reminiscent of Black Lily, was there but being overshadowed by these medicinal fruit like notes, and the spices that came before had gone. The drydown reminded me of soft floral perfume with washing up liquid. Not my thing I'm afraid. It had potential but my skin chemistry messed it up. I think I'll pass this one on-Black Lily (aged) is my favourite lily scent so far. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? no. If you like this, try: Black Lily, Cobra Lily, 13 (Apr 07), #20 Love Oil

I completely forgot that Paris was being banged up until I saw today's wonderfully unexpected update. I think it is fantastic, myself. I love the way that Beth is doing something new with fragrance...parody by perfume, satire by scent. I've always admired the way Beth can excel with both her serious and intellectual fragrances, and her light-hearted, sillier scents. I also love the way that Beth appears to be taking the piss out of the whole 'celebrity perfume' thing as well (among other things-most notably, the farce that is Paris herself). I've never been into celebrity scents and I just get fed up when every tabloid-hogger and reality TV star releases their own brand of cat piss perfume with a pretentious name and a stinky scent. I think Privilege is the closest I'll ever get to owning a 'celebrity scent'. It's got a pretty name too which I don't need to associate with that vacuous attention seeking airheaded twit when I wear it (despite this being the scent description). And it's got some winning notes-tiare, rose, lemon blossoms, armoise, linden and vanilla? I think it will smell perfumey, but in the best way possible. Pruno on the other hand...with a description of 'toilets', 'droppings' and 'ketchup', I honestly thought that wasn't a real scent for sale! But it is...and I'm getting a decant just to see how Beth turns that into a wearable scent! I'm wondering if it will be a joke scent with a foul fragrance or if it will be wearable...from Beth's comments it may be the latter. And of course, Beth's an alchemist, it seems she's highly able to turn any smell that should smell like crap into gold But I do have a viable skin-chem reason not to get it: scents that are much too dominant on the apple turn bizarre on me, and it sounds almost Punkie Night-ish, wasn't keen on PN. But major kudos for Beth updating with these hilarious scents and donating the money to a good cause. I had to order some Paris to go with it-I've been meaning to buy a bottle of Paris, now I have an excuse

Brown Jenkins In the imp: oh, frankincense! This smells just like Midnight Mass, which I love. Wet on skin: golden, heavy resins, rich and church-like. Very much like MM or All Souls. I get a hint of powdery lightness behind it. Dry on skin: heavy golden frankincense and myrrh, gorgeous incense notes, with a touch of light sandalwood and coconut at the back. It's incredibly subtle in the face of the intense resins, but it's there. a slight, soft, sweet lightness. This is very much like All Souls now, but without the cake and currant foodiness but with something soft and sweetly powdery at the back. After a while: the incense is still there but now it has become a little quieter. I can smell the other notes at this point, a gentle dry coconut-very different to the usual coconut, more like a coconut powder and certainly not like suntan lotion. There's a beautiful rich sandalwood and also a warm furry musk, very much like the fuzzy musks in the other animal-themed scents. It's the sort of scent to snuggle up to, but with a hint of something sacred about it. The musk note seems to add a wonderful smoothness, a gentle feel of warm fur, and at times it is almost creamy. However, there's still that dusty coconut-sandalwood scent and the lingering remains of the golden incense in here, only with a little more musk. It's also a little sweeter now. The scent does become a bit faint after about 2-3 hours but it seems to be melding with my skin scent in the same way that Western Diamondback did, in that it's a soft skin musk with spicy sandalwood accent to it. It also smells a little bit sweet, like a light coating of fine sugar, because of the coconut. The very end drydown is a very faint but lovely sandalwood incense with a hint of light musk, like the ashes of burnt incense, dusty and faded. Verdict: I love incense blends and this is another gorgeous take on the theme. At first it's a huge smack of incense, frankincense and myrrh and resinous goodness. But I was wondering where the coconut and sandalwood had got to, so heavy was this cloak of incense. But it's not long before the other notes-the coconut, sandalwood and musk-come out to add a soft, almost fur-like scent to the incense, a dusty and dry but comforting scent. It's a gorgeous coconut note-not too husky or 'scratchy' as I expected, and nowhere near 'suntan lotion' either. The disadvantage is that this scent seems to burrow into my skin like a little rodent, the scent seems to become faint. It still smells gorgeous but has hardly any throw, just a hint of dusty incense and coconut near my skin. But at one point, it seems to give off a wonderful skin-scent of soft woodsy musk with a bit of resinous spice to it, a bit like Western Diamondback or Coyote with added incense, or a non-earthy Death Cap. This is another gorgeous and unusual take on the incense theme, and I adore Beth's incense blends so this is another one I love, and I have a feeling that a little bit of age will work wonders for this scent and make it even stronger and richer. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? yes! I might get a bottle some day. If you like this, try: Penitence, Midnight Mass, All Souls, Death Cap, Western Diamondback, Carceri D'Invenzione

Devil's Claw In the imp: VETIVER OF DOOM. Nothing more. Ok, maybe a hint of pepper, but mainly Evil V. Wet on skin: it's still VETIVER but now it's a little sweeter. Dry on skin: it's pretty much vetiver-dominated, this scent. it's not bad though-not as oppressive as Malediction but along similar lines. I smell different vetivers here-a heavy one and a nutty one, with a soft, almost chewy sweetness to it. Very much like the Music of Erich Zahn, this scent brings to mind exotic chewy sweets, in here it smells like spicy caramel mixed with and pistachios and walnuts, and also a hint of cocoa, it reminds me of the vetiver in Horn of Plenty. I also smell smoke here, a tobacco smoke scent lingering over the nutty sweet vetiver…but this tobacco isn't the crisp, dry, woodsy tobacco I usually encounter in BPAL and which I enjoy, this smells more like…cigarettes. Though oddly, I quite like this even though I normally hate the smell of cigarettes. This smells almost hookah like to me. I also smell incense, dry and smouldering, this is a dark incense blend…maybe with some opium too? And also some damp earth, possibly patchouli too. But all with that sinister undertone of heavy vetiver. After a while: this gets smokier and smokier, more and more like tobacco…in fact it now reminds me more of cigar smoke now. Not the unlit cigar scent I get in scents like Ogun, this is definitely smoke, but darker and richer, more sophisticated than mere cigarettes. vetiver still dominates though, of course, and now it has turned ashy and burnt smelling, enhancing the tobacco note, and there's a slight hint of damp leaves and dirt (like Samhainophobia), tar and metal to this vetiver now. the drydown after a few hours is pure dark heavy vetiver, the kind that resists showering, with a slight hint of burnt rubber that I'm not crazy about. Verdict: this is very, very heavy on the vetiver, but it's a little bit more interesting than Malediction (which was almost Vetiver SN on me). There are some interesting aspects of smoky and sweet that wind through the gritty ashen vetiver, scents like tobacco and maybe some incense. it seems that tobacco is the second dominant note here, at times it smells like cigarettes but then it matures into cigars. There's also a chocolaty sweetness to the vetiver which is quite nice, darkly sweet and exotic chocolate incense. there are some nice earthy aspects to it too, as well as possibly some opium and patchouli. But ultimately, the vetiver is much too strong for my likings. Heavy and sombre vetiver, definitely a 'smoky brown' scent, one of those vetiver scents that sticks around for almost an eternity. It's interesting and not a bad smell, but not my thing. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? not really. If you like this, try: Music of Erich Zahn, the Great He Goat, Malediction, Saturnalia, Brimstone, Djinn, Samhainophobia