PurringPulsar

The Last Evening of the Year In the imp: sour rose cologne and a hint of pine. Wet on skin: whoa, soapy and dusty linen! Dry on skin: an intriguing mix of spiced rose, clean linen, dust, and the BPAL snow note. The rose has a hint of cinnamon to it, which is very pleasant. It reminds me of Harlot, but not as strongly spicy, there may be clove here too. The rose also reminds me of Touched Twice, it’s strong but youthful. The linen note is a cross between the freshly laundered variety and something a little more dusty and moth-eaten. There is a hint of the snow note here, the same one from Snow Maiden or Snow Moon, it’s got a pine scent to it and there’s also a hint of red berry. There’s a strange dissonance here between the warm rose and berries and spices with the chilly linen and snow. After a while: soapy powder. Gone are the snowy skin and the spicy rose, all I smell is dusty but very clean linen, and washing powder. It’s much too detergent-like for me. The powdery scent with the faint remnants of rose reminds me of a kind of old fashioned potpourri smell. Verdict: this scent does tell a story as I first apply it…I get spices and remnants of Christmas trees suggesting festivities and happiness, mixing with opulent rose perfume, but all that contrasts with the scent of a young but vulnerable little girl dressed in rags shivering in the cold. It’s really amazing how Beth does it. I can understand why she cried when she made these scents. The drydown is disappointing after the poignant first stage of the scent (it turns to a generic washing powder smell with very faint rose) but I’m impressed by how the scent can really capture the emotion of what it describes. Not a ‘Happy New Year’s Eve’ scent by all means, but as a piece of perfumed narrative, it works. Is it a keeper? probably not, but I admire it for what it is. If you like this, try: The Pool of Tears, Penthus, Dirty, Snow Moon, Touched Twice, Tears, Idle Tears

Thousands of Lights In the vial: hmm, this smells like antiseptic or non-minty mouthwash. Not sure what that’s about. Wet on skin: no more antiseptic, but there’s a distinctive, almost effervescent scent of frankincense and saffron mixing with citrus. Dry on skin: this reminds me of No 93 Engine and Aelopile. The dominant scents are frankincense and saffron, and when mixed with wood and citrus, they make a scent that’s fizzy but also fiery and dry. Overall this scent is golden, almost metallic. There’s a similar scent in Labores Solis, but this reminds me primarily of the Steamworks line. I can’t really smell the vanilla or beeswax yet. It’s very pretty and there’s the potential for it to get even better at drydown. After a while: the beeswax scent isn’t as strong here as No 93, but I can smell it more now, along with a smooth, sweet vanilla. The saffron, frankincense and bergamot scent is still dominant though-it smells glittery and golden. The champaca is very faint here, which is interesting because normally I amp champaca. The drydown after a few hours is spicier than I expected, lots of saffron and hints of frankincense and wood. Maybe the champaca is doing this? I had a similar reaction with the champaca in Golden Apple of the Sun. Verdict: in contrast to A Wonderful Light, this scent is less like candles and more like sparklers, rather than glowing gently, the golden light of this scent scintillates and crackles. Almost like the younger, more festive sister of No 93 Engine, this scent has a similar resin-citrus-saffron thing to it but it smells livelier. The combination of saffron and frankincense has an unusual fizzy orange scent on me but in here it works very well, and it’s very saffron-y at the start, but it smooths out nicely once the beeswax and vanilla come in. It’s more evocative of New Year’s Eve than Christmas to me, and has the same feeling of optimism and radiance that A Wonderful Light has, only with a bit more glitter to it. Is it a keeper? yes-I have a bottle on order. If you like this, try: No 93 Engine, Pallas Athene, Aelopile, Robotic Scarab, A Wonderful Light, Labores Solis, Golden Apple of the Sun

A Torrent of Light In the imp: fresh and bright, eucalyptus that clears the nose, with a perfumey undertone. Wet on skin: frosty mint and a jolt of eucalyptus with white amber. Dry on skin: ozone leaps out, mixed with white amber, with the eucalyptus and mint lingering. These notes are like a winter wind, clean and clear, piercing and chilly. The kind of cold that cuts through you. The ozone here is of the electrical variety, not as sharp as the one in Lightning, but it has a crackling, metallic quality to it. The ozone and amber do combine to give a scent that reminds me of sporty perfume or clean linen, very clean and refreshing. The eucalyptus does clear the nose and mind but doesn’t smell medicinal. After a while: it smells perfumey now. Gone are the mint and eucalyptus, the ozone and amber stick around and it smells a bit like a mainstream perfume now. Not in a bad way, but I’m not sure I’m keen on it. Reminds me a bit of something I’d smell in a West End department store. It reminds me of Ether and Pollution as well. The ozone is all that’s left after a few hours, very little white amber remains by then. At this point the ozone reminds me of Archangel Winter, but a bit sharper and soapier. Verdict: a blinding white light is what this evokes, like a bolt of lightning. It is almost icy but not quite, it’s even more luminous than that. It’s a flash of eucalyptus and mint with electric ozone and white amber. Quick as a flash the cold notes fade to leave an ozone-amber scent (with emphasis on the ozone), which unfortunately is a little too much like generic perfume for my tastes. I prefer Menacing Ionospheric Research Instrument, which is similar but has more complexity. Though this may be worth putting in a locket for that initial mind-clearing 'zap' that I get from the wet stage. Is it a keeper? no. If you like this, try: Pollution, 51, Alien Invasion, Ether, The Coil, Menacing Ionospheric Research Instrument, Parsifal

A Wonderful Light In the vial: sweet honey sharpened by orange. Wet on skin: tangy orange with a mellow honey note that smells of beeswax! Dry on skin: this isn’t just orange…this is an orange pomander! Studded with cloves, trimmed with a bow with a cinnamon stick, and hanging from a Christmas tree! Yes, I smell the spices and even a hint of pine here, and there’s a glow of beeswax candles here. This is fabulous! It reminds me of Hanerot Halalu, but even nicer, sweeter, less oily. I can’t smell the linden, vanilla or amber, but there is an underlying sweetness to it. But the dominant scent from this is warm beeswax and orange pomanders. After a while: the pomander stage was short lived, but that’s no bad thing because then the amber comes out. It mingles beautifully with the honey, the beeswax scent remains but I smell a separate rich gloopy honey-this is honey straight from the comb. It’s made even more golden by the amber, and the vanilla sweetens the scent even more. It’s a shame that I don’t smell any linden here, but I’m not complaining, the mix of honey, amber and vanilla in here blows O and Et Lux Fuit out of the water. Only after a few hours does the linden make its presence known, that delicate and elusive blossom gilded by honey and amber. It now smells like a mellow June afternoon. Verdict: a wonderful scent! This is what I wanted Et Lux Fuit to smell like! This is such a beautiful scent, really uplifting and full of hope and warmth, it truly glows. Starting with a festive pomander scent of spiced oranges and beeswax candles, it then morphs into the perfect blend of honey, vanilla and amber. I can’t stop sniffing it; it’s like sunshine and hugs in liquid form. The linden is shy and only comes out once the honey-amber-vanilla party has calmed a little, but it’s probably the prettiest linden BPAL I know of. I think I need to stock up on this one because it really is as fantastic as I hoped it would be. Is it a keeper? definitely-must order a bottle or two asap! If you like this, try: Lights of Men’s Lives, Hanerot Halalu, O, The Lion, Et Lux Fuit, L’Estate

In the imp: ohh, soft vanilla and bergamot and white musk. I have a feeling this scent will be a sister scent of Lyonesse. Wet on skin: so pretty…the bergamot in here is glorious, and it mixes perfectly with the musk and vanilla. Dry on skin: mmmm, this is the lovechild of Dorian and Lyonesse! Not at all savage or deathly, but very ladylike, and sophisticated. I smell a very polite caraway note-not as strong as Khrysopelex, but there’s enough to give the scent a spicy bite. The bergamot-vanilla-musk reminds me of Dorian or Theodosius, and also Prince Lir, but the jasmine makes it a little bit more feminine. After a while: now it ends up smelling like the Girl! I love the Girl, so this makes me happy-I now have something to replace it when I run out. I think it’s the combination of jasmine, sweet amber, musk and the hints of cool darkness in the background-something about the wormwood reminds me of the chilly and slightly aniseed-y birch note in The Girl. It still has that hint of Dorian to it, thanks to the earl grey scent of bergamot and the soft vanilla musk. The caraway adds a tiny hint of something fiery and gritty though…subtle, but enough to make this smell less ghostly and chilly than The Girl. Verdict: I love this! A pleasantly tangy bergamot tea and a fantastic jasmine note (a rare and wonderful thing when it comes to BPAL and my skin chemistry) mixes perfectly with a sublime base of white musk, amber and vanilla. The result is a scent that is womanly and refined with velvety sweet musky warmth, the sort of scent that gets me sniffing my wrist compulsively. There’s something strong and assured about it as well, but in an understated way (not as feisty as Heroine or Boadicea), maybe from the citrus and spice notes. This one’s a new favourite. Is it a keeper? yes! I will have to get a bottle once I’m done with my decant. If you like this, try: Dorian, Theodosius, Prince Lir, The Girl, Mastermind, Lyonesse, Gypsy

In Brightness and in Joy In the vial: syrupy fruit and florals and a touch of orange blossom. Wet on skin: red berry jam with orange blossom and other flowers. Dry on skin: not bad! The berries in here are very nice, but there’s the risk that they could become oversweet, as they remind me of the jammy yet unidentifiable red berry scent of Mason and Jenkin’s Port Jelly. The orange blossom contrasts the sweet berries with a surprisingly sharp scent, more like petitgrain than delicate orange blossom. Maybe the angel’s trumpet is sharpening it up? Sometimes that happens with white pungent floral notes. I can’t smell the rose, frankincense or sandalwood but I’m sure they’re in there. After a while: still sweet, maybe a bit too sweet, fruit jam, with a hint of Turkish Delight to it-I think that’s the rose. It seems to be turning into an orange blossom tinged rose petal and berry jam. Still no sign of the frankincense or sandalwood, but this is pretty. The scent doesn’t last long on me, and I never got the more incense-y scents from here, which is a shame. But the rose petal and berry jam drydown with a hint of orange blossom water is so nice. Not as sweet, and the orange blossom has lost its sharpness. Verdict: I do wish this scent were a little stronger and with more prominent rose and incense notes because it’s very evocative of the concept. The sweet berry and zingy orange blossom, once they settle down, evoke a feeling of joy-it's hard not to smile when you smell of Turkish delight...the berry has an almost jelly-like scent that along with a bit of rose, it smells like some kind of squishy pink confection. It’s really pleasant and uplifting, but perhaps a little too sweet, and ultimately it didn’t last long on my skin. Is it a keeper? unfortunately not but I enjoyed trying it. If you like this, try: Changing the Shadows, Mason and Jenkin’s Port Jelly, Dance of the Mirlitons, Seraglio

Yellow Snowballs In the imp: the familiar ‘snow note’ with added sugary citrus. Wet on skin: sugared grapefruit, sherbet lemons, and slushy pine-y snow. Dry on skin: now the grapefruit shows off its bitterness, no doubt powered up by yuzu, which in BPAL tends to smell grapefruitier than grapefruit. The lemon drops are as sweet and sharp as I expected, and I can smell a distinct lemon scent under the grapefruit. There’s a hint of soft, smooth vanilla cream. The pine-y snow note is still there but it’s actually not as dominant now, the citrus notes are strongest, a mix of pleasantly bitter and zesty calmed down by vanilla and sugar. After a while: sweet slushy snowy citrus. This reminds me of Snow Bunny or Hunger Moon but with a lot more fruit and sugar. It has the same lemon as Sticky Bat but it’s not as cloyingly sweet, the fresh snow scent seems to stop the whole scent from becoming too sugary. After that it turns a little weird. The grapefruit starts to smell a little bit fermented, and there seems to be this floral/ozone thing that possibly comes from the snow note. Where’s the vanilla and lemon? I was hoping for something like Knockout Drops in the drydown but the clash of the overripe grapefruit and the almost soapy snow note isn’t really my thing. The drydown ends up turning into a very soapy snow scent that reminds me of fabric conditioner with a bit of grapefruit peel. Verdict: I wanted to like this for the silly name and the hope that the yuzu would stay calm and this would smell of sweet grapefruit and lemon ice cream, but the yuzu’s not the problem here, it’s the snow note. It is a lot snowier than I expected-reminiscent of the snow in Snow Moon and many of the other winter scents, with its strong pine, cold air and chilled fruit scent. I detect a slight hint of citrus in those snow scents so it mixed very well with the grapefruit, yuzu and lemon here, but then an odd ozone component came out and spoiled the scent. I was hoping for more vanilla. Is it a keeper? probably not. If you like this, try: Knockout Drops, The Night Gaunt, Hunger Moon, Snow Bunny, Lemon Scented Sticky Bat

Cloth of Gold In the imp: a bright snowy scent that reminds me of Ice Queen or Snow Flakes. Wet on skin: a sharp floral note (crocus?) peeks through the sweet icy scent. Dry on skin: interesting. It smells like a sharper version of Ice Queen/Talvikuu/Cloister Graveyard/Moon of Ice on me. It has the same smooth icy musk and frozen evergreen scent I get from those scents, except this one seems to have a sharp, biting undertone. I can’t identify it but it is definitely floral, and oddly, my skin seems to turn this floral into a slightly popcorn-y scent. I don’t know what that’s about but I’m not keen on it. Maybe once the ice note ‘thaws’ a little I’ll be able to work out what that floral is. After a while: the snow note never really goes away, which is a good thing because the Ice Queen type scent I get from here is very nice. There’s still that weird popcorn thing to the scent, and I do smell a hint of crocus (and possibly saffron?) but the cool snowy musk scent is most obvious. Eventually the floral weirdness fades and the chilly evergreen base of the snow note is all that’s left. Verdict: I love the snowy note in this scent. It’s the exact same one as Ice Queen, with its cool iced musk and slight hint of juniper and spruce, and I was happy at first to smell this because I thought it would be a perfect replacement for it. But I’m not so keen on the floral note here because my skin does the strangest thing to it, making it smell sharp and a bit burnt and popcorn-y. It’s a shame because the snow note is fantastic. But I think I’ll make the most of Ice Queen instead. Is it a keeper? Not really. If you like this, try: Cloister Graveyard in the Snow, The Snow Maiden, Ice Queen, Talvikuu, All They Had Seen and All They Had Lost, Moon of Ice

Winter Heavens In the vial: cool musk and a fresh floral that reminds me of hibiscus. Wet on skin: ooh, there’s the papyrus, and a bit of fir. Dry on skin: surprisingly perfumey, but not in a bad way. There’s a bright, piercing note here that reminds me of posh perfume, probably a combination of musk, ozone, amber and champaca. The papyrus adds an intriguing touch-I agree, it does have an ‘Egyptian’ scent to it because it reminds me of the smell of papyrus paintings people have bought me when they went to Egypt. The champaca seems to be surging through the cool musk and dry papyrus, which is not good news because champaca tends to go bad on me, and I will be heartbroken if the champaca ruins this. The scent has lost that chilly fir and night air scent for the time being. After a while: champaca all the way! It seems to have devoured the notes that suggested frosty night air; instead it smells like warm, exotic, slightly spicy-floral incense. It seems on the verge of turning to something cloying, but though it’s a bit too much for me it’s actually not doing its worst here. Yet. If anything, this champaca smells more like a posh perfume than usual. I really like the papyrus here even though it’s only just detectable under the champaca. Eventually the scent seems to develop an unusual but pleasant resinous note, almost like myrrh or opoponax. Maybe that’s the amber, glimmering through the haze of champaca, and slowly but surely, the scent turns into incense-not nag champa, but something muskier and more regal-like Temple Viper, but a lot gentler. And then the papyrus paper scent makes a comeback. Then the scent turns into really good quality nag champa incense. This is totally different to what I expected from this scent, but I think I like it! Verdict: at first this disappointed me-I was expecting this scent to evoke one of my favourite things about winter-an utterly clear, cold night where the very air seems to have frozen still, and the sky glimmers with the most vivid, dazzling constellations. I was hoping the white musk, fir and chilly air notes would do that…but then the champaca smothered these notes like a thick fog through which the stars cannot shine. But eventually the scent morphed completely, into an exotic, beguiling incense scent. It makes me think of a nebula, thick clouds with stars shining through the cosmic murk. There’s a mysterious feel to this scent that makes me sniff my wrist repeatedly. It’s actually quite sexy in that subtle ‘come hither’ way, and wouldn’t be out of place in the Lupercalia line. A lot warmer and less frosty than I expected, once the champaca calms down this really becomes something special. Is it a keeper? I’ll give it another try because it’s growing on me. If you like this, try: Temple Viper, Khajuraho, Mr Ibis, Cytherea

Frost at Midnight In the vial: a floral pine scent that reminds me a bit of Halloween in Brooklyn. Wet on skin: very green pine sap made greener by ivy, with orange blossom. Dry on skin: interesting. Hopefully the tobacco won’t ruin this because there’s a lot of potential here. There’s a hint of icy coolness but it’s not as blatant as in most of the winter scents. The musk reminds me of a cross between Faunalia’s wild yet incense-y musk and the chilly Ice Queen musk. There’s not as much pine now, and orange blossom, immortelle and honeysuckle seem to have merged into a very subtle golden floral background, where no one floral stands out. There’s a tiny hint of sage but not much of the tobacco or oud. After a while: I think this may be the ivy’s fault as well but the pine here smells a little soapy or has a greenness that reminds me of some kind of cleaning product. It’s strange because terebinth usually turns to rich pine resin on me. But this stage is thankfully short lived, because then I get a really lovely scent-a frosty skin musk with a subtly smoky tobacco undertone, hints of sage and other green notes, and a similar immortelle note to the one that’s in that incredibly rare scent, Sheela Na Gig (though without the vanilla and ylang). I’m a little disappointed at the honeysuckle not being present though, and I can’t smell orange blossom either-but I’m also pleased that the tobacco hasn’t turned into cigarette smoke. The scent reminds me a bit of Faunalia, but not as sweet and without the really strong juniper, and instead there’s a lot of immortelle and I think this note is one that I am warming to. Verdict: this is really pretty! It really fits the name, evocative of glittering frost under the moonlight. The cool musk and pine evoke the frostiness very nicely without smelling like the usual snow and ice notes, but I think it’s the immortelle that makes this blend special. It’s not a very commonly found note but in here it really comes into its own, working very well with the musk, and there are hints of incense and herbs to it. This scent is very gender neutral despite the floral notes-which, other than immortelle, are barely detectable. I’m not sure it’s a favourite because there are some moments when it smells a bit soapy and I really hoped that the honeysuckle would show up but I can’t smell it at all. Even so, I really like this, especially after an hour on the skin. Is it a keeper? I think I’ll keep my tester and use it up. Maybe track down another decant. If you like this, try: Faunalia, Hunger Moon, Piper at the Gates of Dawn, Halloween: Brooklyn

The Most Magnificent Christmas Tree In the vial: yes, it does smell like a Christmas tree! Maybe a bit more resinous? Wet on skin: still smells like a Christmas tree, but with a hint of dark pine sap. Dry on skin: this smells just like a festive coniferous tree, but with more complexity. It’s not snowy but it evokes something a little wilder and outdoorsy than the usual smell of a Christmas tree. Maybe it’s the dark woods and gloopy sap that I smell, as well as crushed needles, that gives that impression. It reminds me mostly of Stranger in Camp, which has a wonderful pine forest scent to it with a lot of resin/sap, but in this the birch gives a very slight chilly backdrop, as opposed to the warm summer grass of SiC. I agree that there is sweetness to the scent but it’s not overly sugary-in fact it smells more like vanilla or amber. After a while: could there be some kind of musk in here? Or maybe it’s an effect of one of the wood notes…but this now smells like Christmas tree with a warm, sweet, velvety smooth base that reminds me of sandalwood or teak, or vanilla, maybe tonka. It’s gorgeous! It smells approachable and comforting, no longer chilly. There’s a hint of very subtle spice to it, maybe cardamom, and there’s a glow of amber too. But the scent of deep green pine needles is still dominant. The scent turns into sweet velvety woods with a hint of pine, woods with a soft yet deep vanilla musk scent. Verdict: this scent is so aptly named. It really smells like a Christmas tree…but better! Not only is there the unmistakable scent of pine needles and evergreen sap, triggering festive childhood memories, there’s the addition of a warm, sweet, vanilla-wood undertone with musk and resin elements to make this scent even more of a delight...evocative in the wet stage of the tree in its forest, before sweetening and mellowing into a cosy and velvety drydown that brings to mind a really sweet image in my head-a purring cat sleeping under a Christmas tree. It’s the fuzzy and musky (reminiscent of the mammal-themed musk scents) sweetness that makes me think of this. I think this is the best evergreen/pine scent Beth has made. Is it a keeper? yes and I want more! Maybe even a backup. If you like this, try: Stranger in Camp, Waltz of the Snowflakes, Black Forest, Golden Priapus, Woods in Winter 2011

I love the Phoenix labels! And the Winter Fairy on a polar bear is really cute...and that little sadface snowman in the Silent Forest!

OMG I need to get the bath oils just for the labels! They are gorgeous! (and does anyone else think they look a bit like they'd make awesome tattoos?)

I love the Pumpkin Princess label-and the Autumn Cider one (because of the KITTY!)

Has anyone posted the labels for the Black Moon scents from 2011?

Ops In the imp: like freshly baked bread. This is yeasty. I don’t think I’ve tried a bread-scented BPAL before but this is definitely bread, not cake! Wet on skin: bread flavoured with savoury herbs like rosemary, thyme, dill, sage, even a bit of cumin. Dry on skin: this one is really unusual. The dominant scent is BREAD! Freshly baked bread from the oven, soft and yeasty and warm. But this isn’t just bread. It has a sweet glaze, maybe a honey coating or even a bit of jam. But the bread has savoury spices and herbs-I smell fennel now, maybe some coriander, rosemary and sage. Maybe a hint of the savoury spices from Ein Kuss Von Krampus-the mustard and pepper maybe? It actually reminds me of focaccia, maybe there’s a dash of olive oil to this too. I don’t smell butter, or cream, I don’t smell any dairy really. Just lots of dry floury spicy herbal notes. After a while: though there’s a dash of sweetness, I swear I smell salt. Something that reminds me of sea salt crystals, like on a pretzel. Maybe some seeds, like pumpkin, sunflower or poppy seeds? Or perhaps it is caraway or fennel. The bread scent becomes drier, a tiny bit saltier, and definitely more herbal. It loses that sugary scent. This is really unusual. At times it smells a bit like the TAL oil Temple Greek, or a milder, less sweet/boozy Delphi without that note that turned to parmesan on me. It smells like offerings of warm bread with wine and olive oil, and dry dusty stone with wild herbs growing around. Verdict: this scent is so unusual for a foody…it smells of bread and herbs and olives! It does smell like the kind of offering fit for the Roman goddess of plenty, and there are also hints of honey and wine too, and spices as well. I’m impressed at how bready it is and I like that, especially those moments when it turns to rosemary focaccia, but there are some odd, savoury scents here that I’m not sure about, something a bit like cumin or caraway and even some salt. I decided to pass the imp on, but I’m still impressed by this scent and how unique it is-there’s nothing in the BPAL catalogue like it. (can we have more bread scents please?) Is it a keeper? Not sure…it’s so intriguing but I’m not sure I can pull it off as perfume. Maybe as a room scent.

Heroine In the imp: sharp, cologne-soaked rhubarb and a hint of leather. Wet on skin: sharp green-red rhubarb and maybe some apple. Dry on skin: this one is interesting. This is a sharp, piercing scent, with the rhubarb and petitgrain leading the way, giving this scent a cologne like top note, but because this is rhubarb, this is a much more intriguing cologne than usual. The skin musk is probably the sharp, slightly lemony variety that’s in Velvet Nudie, I think that’s enhancing the tangy rhubarb. I think I also smell some apple blossom, but there’s also a deep green scent to all of this. I can’t smell the dark notes or the amber yet. After a while: whoa, this has changed…just look at (or smell?) that Nepalese amber go, go, go! It’s all about the amber now, and this is the same incredible amber from L’Estate. In fact, the whole thing smells like L’Estate to me, the same slightly lemony, musky, gloriously warm, spicy and reddened amber, with a hint of Liberty (the apple blossom). I can’t really smell leather, patchouli or dark musk though, just amber and fruity rhubarb. Actually the more I smell it, the more I smell dark musk-it’s gentle and not as heavy as usual, this is the dark musk that isn’t very sweet, but it is very sexy. Verdict: in the same vein as Boadicea and Liz, this is feminine yet feisty and smells absolutely fantastic. At first it has a sharp, attention grabbing tangy perfumed scent thanks to petitgrain and rhubarb, but then it softens and transforms into glorious amber stained red with rhubarb juice. The musk and leather add a nice deep undertone without getting in the way, the apple blossom adding a very subtle hint of floral. I love this; it makes me feel confident when I wear it. Excuse the cheesy pun but I have to admit I’m a Heroine addict now! Is it a keeper? definitely. I may use up my bottle very fast… If you like this, try: Boadicea, Liz, L’Estate, Liberty, Motley, The Shadowy and the Sublime, Amaterasu v3 (warning: rare!)

Deathrock In the imp: perfume-y and sharp but with promising hints of incense. This oil has a very unusual colour-it’s teal! Wet on skin: I don’t smell hair dye but I smell expensive shampoo here-and I like that! There’s a hint of smoke but it’s not the smell of obnoxious cigarettes. Dry on skin: this one is really unusual but also quite wearable! I definitely smell the hairspray and there is a scent like hair dye-a very, very subtle hint of chemicals but not the really strong fumes you get when dyeing hair-I’d actually say this smells more like hairspray and post-dye shampoo/conditioner with floral and musk notes, the kind used in hair salons. There is a bit of smoke but it is subtle, and the resins add depth and a hint of incense. There’s also a wash of perfume over the whole scent-a bright yet slightly sharp/cologne-y scent. There’s a note, sweet and amber-musky and airy, here that reminds me of Night’s Bridge (which I love). After a while: the hair dye note is still there, and it’s a little unnerving! The scent of that expensive shampoo and amber-musk-floral perfume which I like is still there, as are the resins (I guess it’s the styrax and benzoin I smell most of, that’s probably where the amber note comes from) and the cigarette smoke is actually behaving, which is unusual. But the hair dye is a bit annoying and gets in the way of me enjoying the smoky, haunting, resin-touched perfume. Verdict: this smells a lot nicer than I expected. It does have a scent of hair spray and dye but it’s also got a good amount of resin and a glorious blend of something like musk and amber with a waft of floral perfume. I love the resinous notes and whatever it is that makes the sweet, ambery, slightly floral warm musk scent with a hint of cool air, like the scent of warm, sensual perfume wafting through a sultry smoky night, but the hair dye/spray note is a little annoying. I think I prefer Night’s Bridge-I’m sure the two scents share components (they both have an unusual blueish colour) but NB lacks the smoke and hair product scents in here. Is it a keeper? no. If you like this, try: Night’s Bridge, Stardust, Tavern of Hell, Midnight on the Midway

In bottle: this smells absolutely SUMPTUOUS. It’s roses and vanilla. The note list may not mention vanilla, but the list of ingredients mentions it twice (vanilla planifolia and vanilla infusion) and I certainly smell it here, along with a rich velvety rose note. On skin: oh my, this is so beautiful! It’s a rich, voluptuous, divinely opulent rose and vanilla scent. There’s nothing sharp or haughty about the roses, and the vanilla isn’t foody. The roses smell smooth and velvety, dark red petals with a full, deep scent. The vanilla is sweet and almost intoxicating, without smelling like dessert. The ingredients also mention cistus, which is labdanum, and I smell resins here, I think the labdanum and benzoin add extra depth to the vanilla. The musk note here seems to be akin to a red or dark musk, but it’s not overly musky but it does make the vanilla rose scent even more sensual. I don’t smell anything remotely like champaca or dragon’s blood, and no mandarin either, but I think I smell a bit of tuberose and some berries (they add a hint of subtle juicy fruitiness to the overall deep red scent). This smells like pure unadulterated luxury in a bottle and I don’t want to use it in the bath because I’d feel like I’m wasting something precious once I pull the plug…I’m going to use this as moisturiser or even perfume. I’m so glad I got a bottle of this.

Brahmin In the imp: ohh, this smells resinous and spicy. Reminds me of the very spicy amber of the Lamia prototype. Wet on skin: spicy myrrh! It’s extremely spicy, it crackles with peppery fire. Dry on skin: fiery pepper explodes through this scent like a firework, backed up by equally heated notes of caraway (which in here smells like proper spice, not like pencil shavings) and ginger. This scent is dominated by the pepper but it seems like it is rooted in resin and vanilla, and I love that, I love how the sweetness stops the spices from smelling savoury. I’m surprised there’s no clove in here because I swear I smell it. Maybe it’s the mix of myrrh, vanilla and pepper. The myrrh is stronger than expected and it’s gorgeous and has amber-like qualities. However I smell none of the rose, orange or mandarin. After a while: this doesn’t change much, if anything it becomes smoother and more resinous, the myrrh gets stronger, but the pepper is still dominant. It’s a bit smoky at times, like spicy incense. I still can’t pick out any rose. Verdict: this is one of the most beautiful pepper scents ever. It shows off the black pepper note to the max, whilst enhancing it with resin and vanilla and other spices. I love the fiery bursts of spice here, so different to other spicy scents in BPAL because it’s not about cinnamon or cloves or ginger, but pepper…and it’s so unashamedly, blatantly spicy and I love it! However this is spicy enough but stops short of smelling like Indian food. It’s more evocative of an Eastern spice market, the pungent scents of all the spices mingling around you, overloading the senses. It’s a very exotic fragrance, and it’s very hot, I could see myself wearing this a lot in the winter. Is it a keeper? I want a bottle! If you like this, try: Copper Phoenix, Mama Ji, Al Shairan, 13 (April 07 and May 11), Interfector

Minamoto No Yorimitsu Cuts at the Earth Spider In the imp: this reminds me of the tobacco-musk-sandalwood scent of Smoky Moon, but sweeter. Wet on skin: a perfumey smell pops up, I guess that’s the castoreum, along with tobacco and sandalwood. Dry on skin: the castoreum isn’t too bad here, it has turned oddly rubbery on me in the past but here it smells like a musky-leathery-floral scent that is quite pretty. The tobacco flower has the potential to turn very smoky or ashtray-like but for now it seems to be more floral than usual and has a scent almost like orange blossom. My skin must be out of whack because I swear it reminds me of Cabaret Goth right now. A smokier, woody version of CG, but I don’t understand why as the two scents don’t share any notes. I also smell a soft sandalwood and the glorious bourbon vanilla sweetens the scent. After a while: now it reminds me more of Tavern of Hell but it still has a hint of Cabaret Goth to it, that same citrus-touched floral amber, however the smoky scent of the tobacco is too much…but it’s nowhere near as ashy and cigarette-like as some tobaccos can be. The sandalwood and vanilla are also stronger, but also smoother, at this point. It reminds me of a warmer version of Smoky Moon, whereas SM was silver, this is more like a soft dusky brown with hints of gold and purple. Verdict: this one is interesting. I think I’m becoming more familiar with the castoreum accord and less apprehensive of it, here it smells really nice like sweetish leather with perfumey floral-musk tones. Though the sweetness could be due to the amazing vanilla in here. What surprises me most is the resemblance to Cabaret Goth I get, which is really lovely, at times it’s a smoky take on CG. The tobacco flower does amp up at times, which rather spoils the subtle nuances of the musk and vanilla with the sandalwood, but it’s one of the nicer tobacco flower notes I’ve smelt. That said, I don’t know if I like this enough to keep it, maybe if it were a little less tobacco-y I’d prefer it. Is it a keeper? no. If you like this, try: Dia, Tiersias, Schmendrick, Tavern of Hell, Smoky Moon, Vampire Tarot: The Priestess, Black Lace, Cabaret.Goth (if you can get it)

Io In the imp: fizzy pomegranate juice with crisp cranberry. It’s rather acidic. Wet on skin: still fizzy pom & cran, but now I smell blackberry. Please, please, please don’t do the cat pee thing on me… Dry on skin: this isn’t too bad. I’m not too crazy about the fizzy sherbet note that pervades the whole scent, it smells really sharp and artificial, reminds me of sour fruit pastilles. But the fruit notes underneath are nice. The pomegranate is almost like the one in Swank or Pomegranate II (the citrus one) rather the deeper spicy one, and its tartness is enhanced by cranberry. The blackberry is there, but-miraculously-it’s not turning to cat pee. Unfortunately I don’t smell any of the herbs or the red musk, which I hoped would stop this from smelling too much like a soft drink. After a while: after a short, fleeting moment when this turns into a fruity red musk and mango scent along similar lines to Spawn of the She Demon (but lighter) or Corazon, this then morphs back into fizzy pomegranate and sour sweets, but then swings back to mango again, though the mango has that sharp sherbet background to it. Verdict: I was looking forward to this one but I was a bit let down. It reminds me strongly of something from the Atomic Luau, but without booze. It also smells like sour sweets, with that artificial sherbet-like effervescent sourness to it. The pomegranate isn’t the rich crimson scent from Fruit of Paradise or Red Lace, but the synthetic smell from Swank, and the cranberry made it even more tart. Thankfully the blackberry never turns bad, but the red musk and herbs don’t do much to redeem the scent either, I was hoping for more of those notes. Is it a keeper? probably not. If you like this, try: The Dodo, Spawn of the She Demon, Pomegranate II, Swank, any of the Atomic Luau cocktail scents, Corazon (rare)

Atlas In the imp: eek, vetiver! This isn’t promising, as vetiver is all I smell. Wet on skin: still heavy on the vetiver, but now I smell fluffy mallow coming out. Dry on skin: yes, the vetiver is still there, it’s definitely more like proper vetiver rather than the incense like (sandalwood-distilled?) scent of khus, but there’s also a gorgeous scent of mallow. It’s fluffy and soft and fuzzy, and it is sweet, but I wouldn’t say it smells sugary sweet like the usual marshmallow notes. It’s a gentler sweetness…actually this smells more like a vanilla musk than a marshmallow scent. I smell hardly any coffee, other than a hint of something roasted and smoky under the cloud of mallow, this gives the scent a brown hue, like the dusty brown of a moth’s wings. I don’t smell oak but I do think there’s a bit of wood (hinoki?) boosting and grounding the mallow. I do wonder if there’s mallow in Antique Lace, because I swear there’s a slight resemblance here. After a while: I’m a little sad. Because this has a scent to it that is so much like Antique Lace! No, really, it’s the same vanilla musk scent. It’s glorious, so cosy and sweet but also with something sophisticated to it. But I’m disappointed because underneath it all is a really prominent vetiver note! This vetiver (with a touch of instant coffee bitterness) is spoiling the Antique Lace-y scent with its scent of burnt rubber/asphalt, which really clashes with the soft sweetness. It’s a shame as I was hoping this scent would be a substitute for AL. Verdict: I’m torn when it comes to this scent. The reason why is because it smells like a battle between the most beautiful mallow note fighting against a contrasting, clashing scent of harsh burnt-smelling vetiver. This vetiver is so aggressive, thankfully the mallow is also very strong, but the vetiver is much too distracting for me to enjoy this. It saddens me even more because this mallow smells INCREDIBLY similar to Antique Lace! If it wasn’t for that khus note, I would have found my replacement for AL when it runs out, but it isn’t to be. Is it a keeper? I may keep a bit, but no bottle. If you like this, try: Arabian Dance, The Phoenix in Autumn, Black Lace, Morocco, Antique Lace (if you can get it!)

Chellah v4 In the imp: sweet loamy dirt, like VT The Lovers, or maybe Worm Moon. Wet on skin: mossy stones, dirt and sweetness! Dry on skin: this is really intriguing. It now smells less like the Graveyard Dirt type scents and smells more like a blend of sweet and lightly spicy notes, maybe a bit of musk or amber, and moss covered crumbling ancient stones! There’s still a hint of something mossy and earthy but it smells more like dry dusty earth mixed with the scent of hidden crypts and tombs, the cool air of underground chambers abandoned for millennia, with moss on the walls. However the dominant scent is a sweet sandy scent, golden and warm, like amber or maybe musk and spice? It’s really beautiful and adds something exotic and sultry to the scent. I agree with the Penny Dreadful comparison (earth and amber/musk perfume), but I say that it also reminds me of an earthy Morocco, but that could be because of the name… After a while: ah, I’ve worked out why this reminds me of Morocco-it’s sandalwood! I smell a wonderful sweet warm sandalwood note, dry and dusty in a desert-like way, but with a hint of moss and weathered stone, and something else which is either amber or golden musk. Verdict: I’m surprised there’s not more love for this. Maybe the strongly earthy/crumbly ruins/freshly dug soil notes are too much, but once they retreat a little, I get the most amazing sweet sandalwood musk and amber scent mixed up with the soil and worn stone fragments of an archaeological dig, hints of sand and dust too, maybe to evoke hints of the desert. There’s something almost like Morocco to this, under the mineral and mossy notes. This seems incredibly fitting because that's where Chellah is located. So this is almost like a dirty, ruined, ancient version of Morocco, or like a bottle of Morocco that’s just been excavated from the ground. It’s really unusual but I love it. I’m glad I went straight for a bottle of this and I’d like to see Chellah go live one day. Is it a keeper? Yes. If you like this, try: Penny Dreadful, Yorick, Vampire Tarot the Lovers, Morocco

I just want to say how awesome Jinx Removing is. I rediscovered a little decant of it and since it said that this oil is to be used on the night of the new moon, I used it tonight. I didn't have time or enough oil to use in a bath, but I dabbed some on my chakras and visualised the accumulated negativity I get from day to day just flowing away, before dabbing the rest of the oil on a small tealight (a white candle, as per the instructions). The effect was instantaneous. I felt an incredible cooling tingle where I had applied the oil, but it was especially strong on my third eye. I know it's the peppermint (the oil has the smell of peppermint tea) but even a small dot of oil made my skin tingle intensely, and it was a pleasant feeling, it cleared my headache and also cleared my cluttered up mind. I now feel refreshed and rejuvenated. Amazingly powerful stuff.