PurringPulsar

Red Lantern 07 In the imp: creamy caramel with hints of flowers and currant. Wet on skin: this reminds me of the crème caramel note of Underpants with a huge hit of incense smoke now! Very nice! Dry: soft white floral incense with a sprinkling of sugar. This one has a less heavy caramel than last year’s, and is heavier on the floral notes, the opium seems more like poppy and I think the delphinium may be stronger. There’s also a little currant, some exotic spicy incense which reminds me of sandalwood, and a tiny bit of coconut as well. Oddly, it’s also a tiny bit soapy, but not in a bad way, it’s almost like a fresh linen note has crept into the scent. After a while: now it’s turned to soapy white floral incense. Why? Where is the wonderful caramelised amber tobacco opium spicy incense I got last year? Where is the soapy flowery scent coming from? Why am I getting washing powder here? This isn’t working as nicely on me as last year’s did when it was fresh…and that one’s become even better with age. A little bit of coconut pops out after some time but the scent isn’t losing it’s oddly soapy note. It does smell a bit nicer but not as nice as last year’s. The soapy scent does disappear though, and the coconut becomes the most dominant note at drydown, along with tobacco. It now reminds me of a drier version of Elegba with a touch of Port Royal. Verdict: I adored last year’s Red Lantern, and I love more now that it’s aged a little. This one is not as nice on me. There’s an odd soap note to this-maybe a floral note-which smells white and powdery and almost like washing powder mixed with sweet incense. The gorgeous opium incense and tobaccoare still there, along with a subtler caramel, but I’m not sure about the soapy note I’m picking up, I also don’t get as much amber in here either. After a while this does fade to leave a lovely coconut-tobacco-spice-caramel scent, still with a touch of clean floral to it. That’s my favourite part of the scent. I do like the way the caramel is more low-key in this version (my old RL is a little too heavy to wear sometimes) and if it weren’t for the soapiness, I’d get a bottle. Maybe this needs a little aging to get rid of that odd note, but I think I’ll pass this one on. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? It’s not bad but last year’s is better on me. If you like this, try: Tiresias, Arrival at the Sabbath, Sugar Skull, Arachnina, Opium Poppy, Elegba, Perversion

Arachnina In the imp: heady floral currants, tobacco and opium. Whoa, this is intense. Wet on skin: smoky white flowers and crisp fresh currant. Dry: mmm, this is quite nice! Very hypnotic, indeed. It’s very floral, probably the lilies, with a smoky touch from the tobacco flower and poppy. The currant is also very strong, an almost biting sharp dark fruity note which pervades the scent, whilst an earthy, dark patchouli note grounds it all. I can also make out the musks, which really just enhance the floral and fruity notes without smelling obvious. It also has a perfumey feel to it, dark and deep and grown up. After a while: oh no…now it seems that the lily note has turned on me. There’s one lily note, which I encountered in Prague, which turns rotten after a while on my skin. Turns out this lily is in here, and now it smells like rotting flowers over rotting fruit lurking under the layers of tobacco, musk and opium. Darn it, this scent was doing really well before it turned on me. The sad thing is that even though the lily note smells like it’s fermenting badly on me, the other notes are very nice-the currant smelling almost like a currant wine, the haze of poppy and tobacco, the depth added by the musks, it’s just one of those pesky lilies that prevents me from enjoying this. There are times when this odd scent disappears completely as well, leaving that smooth smoky floral which reminds me of cloth scented with rich tobacco and opium, along similar lines to Mum Moon. And the drydown is pretty, a pale white, cloth-like floral with a bit of currant-though there’s a slightly sweaty feel at times. Verdict: I’m so torn about this scent-there are aspects I love and aspects I’m really not digging. I really like the beginning stage, a rich, sensuous and heady scent of opium, sharp dark currant, and smooth floral notes, with a hint of tobacco flower winding through, with the musks binding the notes together. Very hypnotic and alluring, it feels a little sinister but also sexy, a scent that ensnares you with its deep, smoky scent. But after about an hour, maybe less, one note in here starts to turn against me. I think it’s one of the lily notes as I get a similar reaction in Prague, in that the floral scent in this scent begins to smell like it is rotting. Most lilies don’t do this on my skin, but one of them in here does. Almost like rotting flowers mixed with rotting fruit, it’s not dominant but it is noticeable enough to put me off this scent. No matter how hard the gorgeous musks, opium and tobacco smokes, and earthy patchouli try to make this scent gorgeous, this one problematic note does ruin this scent a little. The thing is this odd note isn’t always there-sometimes it is prominent, at other times it hides behind the darker notes. It’s a shame really because I like the better stages of this scent very much. But I think my decant will be passed on. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Not sure. If you like this, try: Red Lantern, Dragon’s Heart, Languor, Stardust, Prague, Opium Poppy, Chrysanthemum Moon, Urd

Tiresias In the imp: caramel! The caramel is the dominant note, reminiscent of Red Lantern and Mitzvah, but the tobacco makes it more like RL. Wet on skin: sweet spiced caramel, tobacco and cinnamon come out, as do the sandalwood and currant! Dry: oh, this is good! This is the lovechild of Arrival at the Sabbath and Red Lantern! The caramel has toned down now, letting the tart currant (now the strongest note) and spicy notes through, the delicious cinnamon and dry sandalwood. It is also highly reminiscent of Trick #2 with the berry-like currant, tobacco and patchouli, but sweetened with just the perfect amount of caramel. I don’t even smell the muguet, which is good as it often turns to soap. After a while: the caramel makes a return some time later. It is just like the caramel-sandalwood-patchouli combination in Arrival at the Sabbath, in that the caramel is less buttery and more treacle like, like the darkest brown sugar, and it also reminds me of Sugar Skull now. However, the raisin-like currant adds a nice edge and prevents the scent from veering into cloying territory. Then the currant makes a comeback and becomes dominant once more, with that warm and exotic sandalwood always in the background. The scent seems split into two distinct sides, sweet spiced caramel and dark tart currant, opposing yet united as one, not conflicting, but harmonising. So apt. The scent moves between caramel and currant until it finally decides to end as a scent of darkly spiced smoky treacle. Verdict: this is another wonderful caramel scent, rich, deep and tempting. Caramel is one of those notes which can overwhelm, or dominate but mingle nicely with other notes, or be very subtle. This fits into the ‘dominates but mingles nicely’ category in that it is dominant, but I can smell everything else around it, and this caramel isn’t the buttery stuff, but one made with the darkest brown sugar and a splash of treacle. There’s a nice contrast with the caramel and currant going on here…indeed, it seems the scent is double sided. Sweet, sugary and dusky caramel, soulful and syrupy, enrobed in spices and the barest hint of floral, contrasting with the equally dark but sharper, more confident and gutsy and upfront currant and tobacco, with patchouli and sandalwood uniting these two sides. How fitting for such a character! As with most caramel scents, there may be days when this is too heavy to wear, and this is more of a winter scent. But it’s one of the nicer caramel scents and has enough complexity to stop it becoming too foody. It’s a good Red Lantern substitute, and once my decant is used up I might get a bottle. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Yes! I might get a bottle-not now but definitely before he/she disappears. If you like this, try: Red Lantern, Arrival at the Sabbath and Homage to the Devil, Trick #2, Alone, Cockaigne, Sin, Sugar Skull

Night’s Pavilion 07 In the imp: this smells different from last year’s…this is a beautiful watery floral scent, with a hint of spice to it. Wet on skin: oh, this is beautiful, beautiful stuff. Soft, delicate waterlilies. Dry: wow, just wow. This is very different from last year’s, which was heavy on the osmanthus, musk and frankincense, this one’s all about the Nile Lily. I say that with certainty because this smells very similar to a very special oil I have-Egyptian blue lotus absolute, which apparently is also called ‘Nile Lily’. Expensive, rare, and hard to find, mine is diluted (and cheaper than the pure oil) so the scent of my oil is much fainter but this smells very similar to my absolute. The scent of that oil is a clear blue fresh floral, very hard to describe but it is similar to hyacinth and slightly smoky/spicy too, but overall it gives the impression of blueness and water without being typically aquatic. I do detect hints of osmanthus underneath which does seem to strengthen with time, maybe a little musk, but lily rules this scent…and I love it. After a while: eventually the osmanthus amps a bit, as this note tends to do, competing with the delicate lily as to which floral will be dominant…right now they seem to be on equal terms. Now the scent does resemble the 06 version, only with a little less frankincense and musk, and with a fruitier osmanthus note like the one in Ouija. But this scent is all about moonlit, dew covered flowers. The drydown is a graceful dance of lily and osmanthus, each note taking its turn to shine and both merging at times, and the white musk providing a soft, cool and smooth background for these ethereal blooms. Verdict: I was a big fan of NP last year, and this version may be even better than last year’s. There seems to be more of that beautiful lily note in here, that unique and rare waterlily scent which smells like the diluted Egyptian lotus absolute I have. The osmanthus also seems a little softer but comes out more at the end, it’s tangy, wet, almost fruity scent cooperating nicely with the lily. There’s less musk and frankincense but they do support the floral notes. This is a very elegant, cool, serene scent, like last year’s it is a very blue scent, of moonlight on dewy flowers and starry nights, it’s a ‘flowers of the night’ scent but it’s not heady or heavy, this is light, ethereal and enchanting. Very poetic and wistful, glittering and dreamlike, this is a favourite in my collection of ‘night’ scents. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Definitely. I got bottle of this version because I love this elusive lily note. If you like this, try: Dark Delicacies, Evening Star, Kindly Moon, Ouija, Nuit, Itaso Kansei, Black Moon

The Oblation In the imp: herbal blackberry and lavender, with a touch of honey. Wet on skin: sharp tangy blackberry with lavender. I really hope this isn’t the blackberry which turns to cat pee on me. Dry: this is very pretty, mainly warm herbal lavender and fresh blackberries still clinging to their brambles, with honey winding through. Very much a lavender dominated scent for now, it smells very dark and purple. I’m just a little worried about the blackberry note since this does smell very slightly like the one in Monster Bait Closet which does turn to cat pee on me at times…although it is a little sharper, less sugary. After a while: I’m now torn. This is a honeyed and herbal version of the Closet blackberry (can turn to kitty pee), mixed with sharper Bitter Moon one (which is gorgeous). For now it is doing the more pleasant reaction of ‘blackcurrant Ribena’ with added brambly greenness and delicious honey, but this blackberry does have the potential to smell like a territorial tomcat has sprayed on my arm. And then…darn it. It has now turned to cat pee. Bad kitty-I mean, bad blackberry! It smells like a feral feline has sprayed all over a bramble fringed with blackberries. Normally I adore honey but it seems that in this scent, this note is just enhancing the cat pee scent of the berry. It’s not outright disgusting, but it does smell disturbingly like what my garden smells like after the stray toms have invaded. The scent just remains a suspiciously catty blackberry scent until the end…it has promising fruity aspects, as well as hints of the bittersweet blackberry gorgeousness that I got from Bitter Moon, but the berry is too much for me in here. Verdict: this one was a sad disappointment. I was hoping for a gorgeous blackberry, like that of Bitter Moon, with lavender honey drizzled on top. There is a slight hint of Bitter Moon blackberry but there’s also a blackberry note to this highly reminiscent of Montresor and MB Closet…which have a reputation of turning to feline urine. And that’s exactly what happened here-the blackberry, whilst smelling bittersweet and fruity at times, at other times it was like a cat had peed all over the lavender in the garden. I didn’t get any carnation here, just ‘bad-kitty blackberry’ covered in sharp honey. I think I’m going to swap this one…I was hoping this would smell stirring and enchanting on me, but I don’t find anything romantic in smelling like a kitty had sprayed all over me. maybe this could be a hormone thing, and maybe I should try this with a scent locket…but I think this decant will be passed on. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Probably not. I do like smelling like blackberries, or even blackcurrant sweets, but not like tomcat territory marking fluid. If you like this, try: Montresor, Monster Bait Closet, Bewitched, Faiza, Bitter Moon, Glasgow

Fire Pig In the bottle: CITRUS! This is a fizzy, zingy explosion of orange that eclipses even Sol Invictus. Remember how Josey used to write Moxie in big orange letters? I think FIRE PIG deserves this now. Wet on skin: sharp, tangy citrus-orange and mandarin and kumquat-with a hint of sweetness from the floral notes. Dry on skin: whoa, what a firework of sparkling, vivacious scent! It's very, very, very citrus, lots of bittersweet and sharply effervescent fruits like orange and mandarin, along with a hint of delicious sweet lychee (oh lychee, how I love you…) and peach to smooth things out. I don't smell very much else apart from the citrus and other fruits and a few floral notes, but I like this. It's such a happy scent! At times it reminds me of TBS Tangerine scents, it really is that citrus-y. After a while: this is unusual in that the citrus lasts a long time! Usually citrus notes fade away after a few minutes but in here, the tangerine is still going strong, still adding it's fizzy, sunny, happy scent. I do smell more of the blossoms now, plum blossom and peach blossom, as well as a hint of fresh green bamboo and some peony as well. At this point it reminds me of the Asian moons but with a jolt of fruit. The plum blossom and peony really come out after a while, making this smell very much like Peony Moon, but brighter and with citrus and a very soft hint of lychee. The drydown is almost indistinguishable from Peony Moon on me, fruity Chinese flowers, delicate, graceful and fresh. This is a springtime-summer scent for sure. I don't get any dragon's blood here. After a few hours the plum blossom amps up and turns very fruity and sweet…like champaca this floral note can turn a little cloying and banana like at times but in here, like in Peony Moon, it doesn't thanks to the other notes keeping it in check. Verdict: wow! This is such a joyous, celebratory scent, but with an Asian twist to it-the perfect Chinese New Year scent. At first it is probably the most citrus-y BPAL scent I've encountered after Lustration and TAL Energy. Oranges and tangerines and other citrus fruits that just burst with vivid liveliness. The lovely lychee adds a welcome sweetness to these tangy notes. The citrus notes last for a remarkably long time, but when they eventually fade, out come the bamboo and the springy scents of blossoms and peonies. In fact, the drydown to this scent is very much like the Chinese moon scents, especially Peony Moon, there's a very similar scent of peony and plum blossom here. Thankfully the bamboo seems to prevent the plum blossom from sweetening too much. I would have loved more lychee at drydown, but apart from this I really love this smile-inducing fragrance. This scent really is one of optimism and happiness, there is nothing dark or deep here, just smiley citrus coupled with graceful springtime blooms. A scent that speaks of a wonderful outlook for the coming year, a fantastic 'wake up' scent, a great spring-summer scent, and perfect for any time I need cheering up. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? of course! If you like this, try: Aizen Myoo, Peony Moon, Tweedledee, Sol Invictus, Night Gaunt, Lustration, Holiday Moon, Budding Moon

Bilquis In the imp: very much like Queen of Sheba meets the Penitent Magdalen, with a sharp wet apple note. Wet on skin: nutty almond with crisp apple and a little lily. Dry on skin: as the almond recedes from it's cherry state it becomes more of a smoky toasted nut scent, like the almond in Asp Viper and Queen of Sheba. Underneath are the green floral and fruity notes, whilst the musk adds a soft fuzzy warmth at the base. This is a really unusual scent-warm honeyed almond with fresh flowers and apple and the greenness of fig leaf. The lily of the valley is surprisingly prominent but for now it isn't turning to soap. And I hope it doesn't do so at all. After a while: this is a very unusual mix of notes-contrasting themes of damp floral notes and greenery from the lily, apple and fig leaf, and the almost dusty dry warmth of ground almonds and smoky myrrh (think the Asp) and musk. It's like a more exotic version of the Penitent Magdalene, but also reminds me of Uruk's figgy green floral lushness. Then the scent's odd contrasts start to mellow out nicely as the scent sweetens, but also starts to gain a tart scent of rosy apple, with a little touch of golden honeycomb. It reminds me a little of Les Bijoux, but not as sweet. The toasted layer of almonds at the base give a soft dryness, along with musk, the effect is almost 'fuzzy'. But the best thing is that I'm still not getting any soap from lily of the valley, which is fantastic! And the scent really stabilises nicely after about 20 minutes of wear, where there's a very nice balance of all the notes…honeyed flowers and apple with a dry-and almost spicy-ground almond base reminiscent of soft desert sands. And then the scent settles into the nicest lily, a fresh white lily scent (still no soap!) and crisp apples resting on a golden sweet spicy myrrh-musk with a hint of honeycomb. This is really gorgeous now. Fresh and cool yet also dry and warm…and it is really growing on me. It sweetens and becomes even smoother and smoother over time, a soft and feminine floral honeyed musk. Verdict: at first, this was a highly unusual, contrasting and jumbled up scent with notes of almond and apple and flowers mixed up together. I liked it, but was a little worried that the notes would clash and that after this point, the scent could go either way-it either turns disastrous, or beautiful. Thank goodness the scent gradually turned to something truly magnificent. This is one of those scents that really grew on me, I was patient with it and let it evolve on my skin, and I'm glad I did. It brings to mind a white lily bouquet lying on golden sands, or an oasis in the desert. A core of fresh juicy apples and flowers surrounded by a warm blanket of dusty golden exotic musk and myrrh and almond. Really gorgeous, unique, exotically feminine and seductive. The best thing about this scent is that despite the fact that the lily of the valley is very prominent, it doesn't turn soapy like it usually does, in here it is so beautiful. I do prefer Queen of Sheba, but this is such a unique, complex and fascinating scent, I'm definitely keeping it…especially for the breathtaking drydown. I think it will grow on me the more I wear it. And it's my favourite lily of the valley scent so far. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? yes! This is one of those scents I probably will love more with each wear. If you like this, try: Queen of Sheba, Penitent Magdalene, Seraglio, Asp Viper, Bastet, Uruk, Les Bijoux

Mr Jacquel In the imp: a wonderful spicy amber with patchouli, reminiscent of Sin and Aureus. Mmm. Wet on skin: mmm, now an almost papery patchouli note surfaces from the amber, and I smell dusty spices like ginger and cardamom. Dry on skin: oh, this is wonderful. This is dusty amber, so dry and warm, mysterious and soft and also brings to mind ancient papyrus and linens covered with the dust of ages, and arid desert sands. Golden and sunlit, yet shadowy. The patchouli adds a soft earthy feel whilst the spices add the perfect amount of heat. But it’s really the scent of dust and faded golden spices over golden amber and a hint of dry earth, ever so evocative. After a while: there's definitely some cardamom in here, which is a good thing since I adore that spice…maybe a touch of cinnamon as well (but not 'red-hot' cinnamon!), and dry pale ginger. It actually reminds me somewhat of a dry chai mixture, but more discreet, without the outright hot spiciness, this is just gentle warmth, a dry, soft spice. But it still smells like the warmth and luminous gold of amber muted and softened by dust and sand, faded and aged, but rich and sweet. This doesn't change too much over time, it does get a little sweeter and more amber-y, but really it just remains as a beautiful mix of dry desert spices, dusty patchouli and warm amber. It also has a soft 'fuzzy' feel to it, which seems appropriate for a scent with slightly canine associations, a little bit like Coyote but less woodsy and a bit dustier. It also smells a little papery. This seems like a softer side of Anubis (the god, not the scent-this is very different to the Excolo fragrance). It dries down to a beautiful warm sandy furry amber-patchouli with spices all over, smooth and warm and so gorgeous…the sort of scent to snuggle up to. The patchouli and amber are very nicely merged together in this scent. At this point it is very reminiscent of Bakeneko, even though this scent is inspired by a jackal god, not a monster kitty. I wonder if this has a slight musk to it as well. I love the way this feels old and timeless but also strangely cuddly and cosy! And it wafts so nicely…and the amber really comes out after a few hours, like a warm sunset of scent. This now resembles scents like Jacob's Ladder and Ozymandias, and also a lighter version of Aureus. Verdict: I knew this would be amazing, and it surpasses even my expectations. This is a beautiful earthy amber-patchouli scent topped with a dusting of sun-warmed spices. Like Beth's other Egyptian scents, this is incredibly evocative-as well as the listed components I smell ancient dust and sand here, I get vivid images of dark dusty tombs full of golden treasure, desiccated linen, fragile papyri covered in funerary spells. Whilst the Anubis scent is like sticky ancient embalming resins and fragrant offerings to the god, this evokes the character and domain of Anubis himself. The spices are wonderful-I smell cardamom mainly, a little cinnamon too, almost like chai at times, but not a blatant spice-more like a dusty warmth. As the scent progresses, it changes slowly to a furry, comforting scent, golden and sand-dusted amber with a fuzzy patchouli aspect like what I got from Lycaon, but gentler. And there are some points where it really reminds me of Bakeneko, it has that same huggable furry spicy amber feel, but with a more Egyptian-and less feline-slant. I don't see a similarity to Luperci like others do though, but even so, I adore this scent from start to finish. In fact, this is a hot contender to become one of my top favourite Egyptian themed BPALs. Now I really want to read AG. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Of course! This may even be better than Anubis. I want more. If you like this, try: Anubis, Coyote, Ozymandias, Bastet, Bakeneko, Jacob's Ladder, Sin, Aureus, Shroud, Eshe

Mr Ibis In the bottle: a soft fresh green aloe-papyrus with the unmistakable fresh tang of Egyptian musk. Wet on skin: fresh and breezy light musk, this is almost like a cooler Ozymandias. Dry on skin: mmm, this is really nice! It smells very clean and tangy-fresh, almost effervescent, and breezy. This isn't the heavy Egyptian musk in Debauchery, or the furry Egyptian musk from Bastet. This musk is the fresh, tangy Egyptian musk variety that I've smelt in other EM scents, it's almost aquatic and very cool, like a river breeze. The aloe makes this scent even greener, the combo reminding me of Et Lux Fuit meets Embalming Fluid, with a bit of Ozymandias (the airy fresh E-musk that may be perceived as 'soapy' by some is similar to Ozy's clean top note). I can just about make out a hint of dry, dusty papyrus underneath. This is beautiful. After a while: this musk is very tangy, almost salty-it has the 'sun warmed skin with a hint of clean sweat' scent I usually get from paler Egyptian musks, but the aloe adds a cooler aspect, more like 'moonlit skin' here. It's a very bright, white luminous scent. The scent fades to a gentle aloe-touched fresh pale musk, like Embalming Fluid without the lemon tea, with a little bit of dry papyrus at the base, the papyrus isn't as strong as the reedy note I got in Meshkhenet, but I definitely recognise it. It's really a skin scent as well, as E-musk notes tend to be. Then it fades to a dry skin musk. It is soft and with a slightly bitter aloe note (bitter in a good way) and a touch of papyrus, still cool and airy but without the effervescent tangy scent I got before, and now it's a little bit dustier and more papery. The scent is very gentle and soft. I don't get very much vanilla. Verdict: I have an affinity for Thoth, so I needed to get this. And thankfully, I love this scent of fresh and airy musks, including a sharp, zingy variety of Egyptian musk-very clean and refreshing-it has a similar feel to the airy ozone notes without smelling like ozone. Unlike most Egyptian musks which have a sun-warmed aspect to them, this is very cool, a musk of the night. I also like the way this scent is both ancient in feel, and almost modern, at once. On the one hand it gives of a freshly sophisticated and almost clean cut scent to it, it is very unisex and understated-it strikes me as being a perfect refreshing scent for those hot days when I don't feel like slapping on anything with mint or citrus/tea. But there are enchanting evocative moments when this ethereal, breezy fragrance is like a soft wind blowing over the Nile at night, cool and slightly damp but still mostly dry from the desert all around, with a faint papyrus note. I haven't read AG so I don't know if this fits the namesake character, but it is an incredibly fitting scent for Thoth, I think. It is cool and silver-white, and reminds me of moonlight-and Thoth is a moon god. It is papery, also clear and focused and also quiet, a little papery and studious, but not stiff and dull…yet it does resemble Embalming Fluid's musk-aloe, which seems appropriate. A subtle, yet beautiful, bright and cool scent, perfect for everyday and especially good for hot weather. I'm going to wear lots of this once summer comes. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? definitely. This seems to be one that will be worn a lot in summer. And how could I refuse a Thoth scent? If you like this, try: Embalming Fluid, Ozymandias, Et Lux Fuit, Dolce Stil Nuovo, F5, Meshkhenet

Kanishta The Other Woman. The scent of dark desire, heady with intrigue, shadowy with deception: black opium, Haitian patchouli, jasmine sambac, French magnolia and kush. In the imp: a really dark, but quite sharp jasmine rooted in patchouli. Wet on skin: the jasmine is still very sharp but a creamier magnolia comes out, and there's a hint of greener incense. Dry on skin: oh, this is quite good! It reminds me-but smells quite different to-Venom, in that it's jasmine soaked in darker notes, this time patchouli and opium. The jasmine and opium are quite sharp for now but the magnolia adds a gentler floral touch. The patchouli adds an earthy darkness, and I also smell a greenish incense smoke, vaguely like weed (yes, that's right!) which I think is kush. It doesn't make me smell like a pot-head though, don't worry! After a while: after a while, the jasmine tones down dramatically and mixes with the magnolia to form a beautiful creamy soft white floral. (The sambac variety tends to do that-smells sharper at first but then tones down to become beautiful, unlike the regular jasmine note that usually tends to do the reverse) and now it also smells beautifully spicy! It's like an exotic spiced floral incense, flowers sprinkled in spice with patchouli and opium smoke floating over the top, and the opium starts to remind me of the hazy poppy note in Stardust. Now it reminds me more of Venom and also Noir, only without the berries/plum and not as sweet. This is gorgeous and sensual. It also smells a bit musky. And at the end it smoothes out so beautifully and gives rise to that wonderful 'fruity-floral autumnal musk' scent I love so much and that is common to many BPALs. This is a floral scent that isn't like the usual sultry summer jasmines, this is one that speaks of that autumn, earthy and rich, I'm sure it's the patchouli giving this impression, as it smells very similar to Lot and his Daughters now, which has a very similar patchouli. I'm sure there's a musk note to this too, maybe some fruit? It also reminds me strongly of a floral Hellion at this point, I could swear that there's plum or another fruit here. Verdict: this is probably the most 'femme fatale' scent I've come across (other than Noir, which is so rare anyway). Dark, seductive, shrouded in mystery and with a sinister feel, this is a beautiful mix of flowers surrounded by exotic spicy incense. First the jasmine bites with an almost acrid sharpness, but the incense like notes all around attempt to calm it down. And it seems that this jasmine does calm and becomes charmed by the magnolia, patchouli and opium, transforming into a creamy floral with mysterious depth and smoky undertones. Voluptuous and alluring, very sexy and mature as a scent. and it gets even better with time-it gradually turns into an earthy, creamy, musky patchouli drydown similar to a few other scents and is unique to BPAL, it brings to mind autumn, only this time with a floral aspect to it. It is deep and hypnotic, smoky yet smooth. Beautiful. In fact, I think Kanishta is a sister to those elusive beauties, Venom and Noir, she has that same dark shadowy jasmine feel. I have a bottle coming of this wonderful, seductive, darkly feminine fragrance. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Yes! This is so gorgeous. Bottle ordered. If you like this, try: Hellion, Lot and his Daughters, Melisande, Feu Follet, Stardust, Darkness, Vechernaya.

Smut 07 In the imp: almost a single note of red musk. Very similar to last year's. Wet on skin: now I smell cognac! Lots of dark cognac mingling with red and Siberian musks, and some vanilla too. Dry on skin: this is very much like last year's, right down to the almost patchouli like dark and dirty-earthy scent which pervades the fragrance, the cognac, the sugar, and the musks. For now though, I'm not getting as much of the condom rubber scent that I got last year, but I do get slight hints of it (it's still 'safe smut', better than no smut at all…), but the scent is still as goddamn sexy as ever. After a while: the rubbery scent does seem to weave in and out of the scent-at times it's strong, but right now the boozy notes are incredibly strong. I think this may be boozier than last year's, it still smells similar, but it seems the cognac is almost drowning out the musk. and it seems to stay boozier for longer, the musks still subdued by the strong cognac scent. I wanted the sugary vanilla and musks to come out like they did in last year's to create that Snake Oily drydown I really enjoyed. The drydown is sexy red-toned musk, but still soaked in dark dirty liquor. It's not as Snake Oil like as last year's was after a long wear time, this Smut seems to stay pretty consistent, smelling of booze and musk and a little rubber…or even kinky PVC! Verdict: this is very similar to last year's musk-o-rama, but I think there's even more booze in this one. It starts off smelling like Smut 06, a faintly rubbery boozy musk, red musk being the most obvious note along with cognac, but there's also some Siberian musk in here too, I think. In last year's, the drydown was a wonderful 'hardcore Snake Oil' scent, like the vanilla-patchouli-musk of SO but with more musk to it. This one still keeps it's boozy scent right until it fades completely. And it retains it's rubbery scent, which makes me a little uncomfortable. I do like Smut a great deal, especially the 06 version, but because it does seem such an intense and powerful 'no-holds-barred drunken fuck!' scent, it's not a scent I wear every day. And that oddly rubbery scent it has is very fitting, I must say, but a little too fitting if you get my drift…and at other times the booze notes are too strong. But when I do feel the need to slap on the Smutty stuff, I think my bottle of the 06 version will suffice. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? I have a bottle of 06, which has more musk than booze, I think one bottle is enough…it's such an intense and X-rated scent! If you like this, try: Sed Non Satiata, Snake Oil, Mme Moriarty, Lust, Scherezade

Wulric In the imp: this oil is like a lava lamp, dark cocoa blobs floating in a paler oil. The scent is the most gorgeous lavender flavoured chocolate (and yes, I can actually buy lavender chocolate at Waitrose). Wet on skin: wonderful lavender flavoured chocolate. This is just like the Possets Naturals cocoa scents, a very natural chocolate fragrance. Dry on skin: ohh, this gets better! The vanilla and sage start to creep up out of the lavender chocolate, maybe with a little musk as well. This is so delicious! It is rich, warm, sweet, decadent, and also quite fuzzy! It's like a great big chocolate hug, with an almost Dorian-esque vanilla-musk to it as well, and a soothing herbal aspect. It also reminds me strongly of another favourite-the new version of 13. After a while: after the heady, hypnotic lavender fades away, I'm left with a beautiful smoky vanilla-chocolate-musk scent. I have a feeling the smoky, almost wood-smoke like scent I get here is the birch tar, as it does have a very slight-but pleasant-asphalt like scent to it. The cocoa and vanilla and musk have merged into the most gorgeous smooth soft furry scent ever-the sort of scent I want to nuzzle in to, it reminds me of a mix of 13 Revisited, Dorian, Velvet and Underpants. And the vetiver is so subtle-this isn't the evil stuff that takes over a scent, this vetiver is perfect. Over time the vanilla turns a little creamier and fuzzier, and I smell a little more of the vetiver. It also reminds me of the Bow and Crown of Conquest now, with cocoa replacing the leather. After many hours, the scent is a delicious cocoa tinged vanilla-musk, like Theodosius sipping hot chocolate instead of tea, I think the vetiver is really giving the other notes incredible staying power without smelling like blatant vetiver-I love that! Verdict: it seems this year that Beth has been on a lycanthropic kick, and this is probably the best werewolf scent ever, knocking Lycaon off the top spot. At first it's the scent of a wonderful lavender flavoured chocolate (which, believe it or not, tastes very nice-the chocolate, not the Wulric! I didn't taste this oil!) with hints of vanilla and sage. Once lavender leaves, the scent becomes the most amazing vanilla musk over soft velvety cocoa with a sublime scent of wood-smoke wafting over it all. The cocoa absolute Beth uses in here is breathtaking, and the vetiver is perfect-not the 'vetiver of doom' which amps on me exterminating all other notes, this vetiver adds just the right amount of long lasting, gritty earthiness to the scent and helps the scent to stick around. I can't get over how much of a fabulous comfort scent this is. So delicious, a real 'hug in a bottle' scent, warm and fuzzy herbal chocolate vanilla musk with a wild, dark, smoky undertone to it to prevent it being too foody, it's beautiful on me, I can just imagine how sexy this would be on a man. I think I need multiple bottles of this yummy chocolate covered wolf man! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? yes! I need more, asap! If you like this, try: 13 (new version), Dorian, Velvet, Bliss, Bow and Crown of Conquest, Theodosius, Lycaon, Monster Bait Underpants, Cerberus

Oborot Balkan fir sap, dark mosses, Greek Mountain tea flower, black pine, salty ocean spray, deep black earth, and a moon-touched magickal incense of sandarac, frankincense, and ravensara. In the bottle: dark and earthy. It actually smells almost like asphalt here, but with evergreen notes over it. It also reminds me of vetiver's depth and darkness, without smelling of vetiver. Wet on skin: green! This smells like crushed plant stems and fir needles, with a thick layer of tree sap. Dry on skin: now I smell a bit of sea spray, and a lot of pine, as well as mosses. This scent is an intensely dark green scent, or dark green against black. It smells like crushed herbs and torn leaves, freshly cut trees (when the wood smells slightly green and wet as opposed to a more familiar dry wood scent) evergreens and a little gritty earth-not the same wet loam as the likes of Penny Dreadful though, this is darker, and drier. Unfortunately the pine and sea spray combine to give a soapy/pine cleaner scent that I'm not sure about. After a while: this reminds me very strongly of another scent…I think it's by Propaganda Bath, I think it's their 'Orion' blend? That's a patchouli-evergreen-resin scent, and this smells quite similar. The evergreen notes of pine and fir (especially pine) are the most attention grabbing notes, but there's an earthy darkness behind it all which reminds me of patchouli or a darker musk. I get very, very subtle hints of frankincense and smoke wafting through on a sea breeze. The pine is a little too much like cleaner for my tastes but there's something intriguing to this scent, dark and mysterious and wild. Eventually the loud pine calms down a little and the scent left behind is surprisingly good. No longer as green as before, the scent that lingers now is dark, yet warm and balsamic. I can now smell the incense, golden and slightly spicy, softly smoky, with a dry herbal touch of what I think is ravensara, over an earthy, mossy base. There's also a golden balmy resin to this which is different to the frankincense, almost like copal, I wonder if this is the sandarac? And I do get something almost vetiver-like after a few hours. Indeed, as this dries, I'm sure there is dark, almost metallic vetiver lurking at the base of the scent-it is unmistakable, but thankfully it's not a strong, all consuming vetiver. Verdict: this is a very unusual fragrance that does transform and shape-shift into very interesting stages, from pine to sea air to moss to black dry soil and incense. It's very conceptual, very much evoking the landscape and mystery of its description, a scent that tells a story, a story that is entrancing and magical but also wild and unsettling. It starts off heavily pine and fir with sea spray (though in here it smells a little household cleaner-like I'm afraid) very fresh and green but with a very dark undertone of gritty earth, not the usual 'wet soil' note but something a little harsher. But once the pine fades, there's a gorgeous bit in the scent when the resinous notes shine through and a slightly golden incense scent winds it's way around the earth and moss and green darkness. This is really lovely, warm and intriguing, my favourite stage of this scent. this lasts for a little while before fading and leaving just the black-green and earthy notes behind, softened by moss, but with an almost sinister base that smells uncannily like vetiver. It's a very unique scent, strange and entrancing, but despite it's narrative feel and morphing complexity, there are bits when the scent smells a little too soapy or like pine disinfectant (the dreaded 'pine sol' reaction people talk of) and overall the scent is a little too masculine for me. I think I'll pass this on, but I really enjoyed experiencing this one of a kind fragrance, certainly not a perfume you'd find elsewhere. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Not sure. The soapy pine blast at the beginning is off-putting, but the drydown is intriguing and unusual. I'm not sure if it's a 'me' scent though so I may pass it on. (I'm being really harsh with my bottles these days!) If you like this, try: Black Forest, Thanatopsis, Zombi, Danse Macabre, Omen

Saw Scaled Viper In the bottle: whoa. Spicy. I can smell the cassia. But there's a lot of red ginger too…and this smells like the ginger that turns to rubber on me…oh dear. Here's to hoping it won't. Wet on skin: oh no, ginger's threatening to turn bad here…will the other spices save this scent from turning to the smell of hot car tyres? Dry on skin: hey, the ginger's being calmed down by the cinnamon and cassia! Yay! It does threaten to turn rubbery but for now it smells like ginger root, kept guard by the gorgeous sweet spices of cinnamon and it's darker sister cassia. For now this is all about the spices, hot and biting yet sweet and delicious. This is the best of both worlds when it comes to spice, the spices are both fierce and fiery, yet also comforting like a cup of chai. The Snake Oil isn't coming out just yet but I think that's what seems to sweeten this a little. After a while: now the spices seem to melt into each other. Ginger has submitted to the charms of cinnamon and cassia and now merges with them to form a very nice hot spice scent over a deep, sweet, softly Snaky base. The spices are natural in feel, and very dry smelling, it brings to mind a home made chai recipe, or dry gingerbread. Now is when it starts to smell a little Shubby as well, and also reminds me of Three Witches. Over time, this dry spice becomes more cinnamon-dominated, and increasingly dark and musky, almost like Smut, in fact…spicy Smut. I think the musk and patchouli of Snake Oil are showing up a lot here. And at the end, the Snake Oil vanilla slithers out of the spices and blooms beautifully, filling the air with its deep, rich, indulgent sweetness. I love this drydown so much…and it's also rare in that it strengthens with wear instead of just fading. Damn, this is going to be orgasmic when aged. Verdict: this was another Snake I was looking forward to-I mean, cinnamon Snake Oil? That's got to be the best thing ever! (Along with chocolate Snake Oil, aka Boomslang, which is also magnificent, but that's another story…) But as I smelt the oil in the bottle, I was a little scared of the obvious red ginger, which doesn't play well with me most of the time. Thankfully, the cinnamon and cassia beat the pesky ginger into submission, and prevented this scent from turning into something nasty and rubbery, and turned it into the perfect spiced Snake Oil. Like Snake Oil chai. It's even better than the 'cinnamon Snake Oil' experimental blend, as it's more cinnamon-y than that was. The spices play very nicely on my skin-I don't suffer from cinnamon burns anyway, but the ginger doesn't turn nasty on my skin at all. this is a hot, fierce scent with a warming undertone to it, it would be perfect for winter months. The drydown is even nicer-that's when the Snake Oil really comes out, and when it comes out, it has such throw. I love the way this scent broadcasts its vanilla-musk-cinnamon-patchouli-incense scent after a few hours. I'm so glad I got a bottle of this straight up, it really is as good as I hoped, and then some. I think I'll need more bottles of this just for aging! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? yes! I can't wait to see how this spicy snake matures with time…and I think I'll get more! If you like this, try: Shub Niggurath, Bengal, Al Shairan, Snake Oil, Three Witches, Chimera, Priala

Crow Moon This is the final Full Moon of winter. The call of the crow signals the end of the frost, and their scent, of vervain, black violet, white musk, and Chinese cedar, is brushed by the last cold wind of winter on their wings, and the scent of evergreen boughs touched by the season’s final flowers and the first blossoms of spring: wintersweet, green-barked dogwood, primrose, snowdrop, and lenten rose hellebore bouquet. In the bottle: soft, sweetish herbal-floral. This does smell quite perfumey, but in a good way. Wet on skin: out comes the hollow wooden scent of cedar, with hints of fir, violet and musk, but also something rather perfume like. Dry on skin: mmm, this isn't bad! It is totally different from the 'snowy' moons that came before, this smells cool and airy but this is an early spring night with a slight chill in the air, not a freezing winter one covered in snow. I smell something almost like mint here, a very subtle evergreen, as well as a soft ozone like note- probably winter wind, as well as the musk, cedar (this is a particularly nice cedar) and violet. There's also a perfumey aspect to it, almost reminiscent of the nicer perfumes from a department store. I wonder if that is due to the floral notes…I get something reminiscent of Black Hellebore (which also smelt quite posh and perfumey), and hellebore is a component here. It also reminds me of Arkham (Revisited), but less sweet and much cooler. I smell hardly any verbena here-just a tang, nothing more, maybe the vervain is a softer, less lemony version. After a while: this becomes more and more perfume-like and the throw increases. It now reminds me of Arkham even more, but without the cloying sweet note that made me dislike that scent. The cedar is now a lot quieter, the violet and white musk are now at the fore, fringed with green notes and with a background of pale, soft, fresh floral notes I can't identify. It does smell very sophisticated though, very sleek and chic, and quite unisex. It also reminds me of a face cream my mum used to buy. Eventually this becomes a soft, smooth violet perfume. But this is not your usual violet scent-it has none of the 'old fashioned' feel that can sometimes appear in violet scents-this smells like a more 'modernised' violet, smart and stylish, violet graced with chilled silvery musk and a background of warm woods and bright flowers. Verdict: I was expecting something very similar to Wolf and Hunger Moons, ie with the 'snow note' to it. But this is totally different, in fact this is a highly unique BPAL and smells surprisingly like a well made expensive and modern perfume. This could definitely be a scent wafting from a perfume counter, but as it's BPAL, it is more unusual and without the sharp slap of alcohol. It's such a well-blended scent, aloof, sleek as a crow's feathery coat. It is silvery, a gentle and mysterious scent with a very pretty and fresh violet note which is like no violet I've smelt before (no 'old lady' or 'Parma Violet sweets' here!), a solid cedar base, fresh ozonic notes and white musk, a little evergreen, and some dewy floral notes. It manages to be ethereal and ghostly and evocative of those last cool nights of winter leading to spring, and yet it also smells very contemporary and classy, and mature. This is what I wanted Numb to smell like, actually, when I heard it was an ozone-violet-perfumey scent. this is quite different to most BPALs I've smelt, it really is one of a kind…though it does remind me of Arkham Revisited but colder, a little frostier. It is a beautiful scent, and I admire the artistry of this scent, and it's uniqueness, but I think it may be a little too perfumey for my tastes. It's lovely, but I'm not sure how much I'd actually wear it-I think it's because it reminds me of something my mum used to wear? I might try it again though-it may be one of those scents that grows on me. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Not sure. It is very well made, intriguing and unusual, but a little too perfumey for me. If you like this, try: Arkham (Revisited), Black Hellebore, The Raven, Black Ice, Snow Flakes, Jolasveinar, Numb

Khandita In the imp: a spicy yet bitterly herbal black musk scent. Wet on skin: whoa, the rosemary is harsh here, and I smell something almost medicinal as well. Dry: what an unusual fragrance! This is a bitter, harsh and heated scent. The neroli is of the bittersweet kind, not the citrus-floral kind, and the rosemary gives this a sharp herbal bite. The saffron is hot and fiery, but there’s a sweet black musk behind these notes. After about a minute the notes no longer seem to clash, though I do smell something almost like anise to this. This is an odd mix of smooth and slickly sweet musk with a seething bitter herbal-spice layer on top. After a while: the initial anise aspect of the scent does calm down, letting the musk through. For now saffron and musk dominate this scent, with saffron dancing like sparks from a fire over the black musk, and it’s not as angry any more-it’s still hot, spicy and sharp, but the musk seems to soothe the scent out very nicely with it’s dark, smooth sweetness. There are times when the musk mellows out very beautifully in here and it’s like Haunted with saffron sprinkled on top. Mmm. Indeed, this is what the scent settles into at the end-a sweet, almost amber/vanilla like black musk, sleek and sweet and dark, touched with saffron’s warmth. It’s still slightly edgy but not as fierce…it seems this irate lady has been anger-managed quite nicely now. Verdict: this does seem like a very ‘hell hath no fury’ scent, indeed. At first she bites and hisses with sharp stabbing notes of bitter neroli and rosemary with seething saffron over a deceptively sweet musk, overall there’s a scent of ‘enraged liquorice’ to this scent. (I suppose another name for this would be ‘Enraged Ex Musk’?). The tempestuous melee of notes is quite a jumble of scents, confusing and edgy, hot spices and herbs with jagged edges. But over time it all calms, as this scent’s temper cools, the musk starts to smooth everything out with a sweet, almost syrupy-sleek, and richly dark. It turns to pure black musk spiked gently with saffron, a spicy version of Haunted, I even smell something like amber to it which adds a golden sheen to this slick black musk…and it wafts nicely and lasts for ages on the skin as well. I’m not sure I love the first stage of this scent much-a little too harsh for my liking so I don’t need a bottle, but the drydown is worth the wait and worth keeping the decant for. It's one of the nicer, more wearable 'angry' scents, to me. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Definitely the imp, not really a bottle scent-the drydown is lovely though. If you like this, try: Chokmah, Phantom, Haunted, Wicked, Wrath, Great Sword of War

Abhisarika In the imp: mmm, this smells like the beautiful orchid from Shadow Witch Orchid, with a hint of something ‘perfumey’, possibly the musk. Wet on skin: oh, this is beautiful! I can’t smell the rose but the orchid in here is irresistible! Dry: oh wow. It’s mainly the most delightful sweet orchid, reminiscent of Shadow Witch Orchid, but with a background of something highly sophisticated and ‘posh perfume’ like in the best way. I suspect that’s the Kashmir musk, which seems to have bonded with the rose to produce a scent reminiscent of Othello and Rapture behind the orchid. I don’t smell cream, but this is gorgeous. Very grown up and ‘dressy’ as well. After a while: eventually the floral sweetness and heady orchid tones down, it’s not as sweet but it is still fresh and pretty. The scent has become a touch more perfumey now, it doesn’t smell like Othello as much any more, but does smell more unisex, fresh and tangy, and resembles very expensive perfume. I’m sure this is the Kashmir musk at play here, it smells almost woody as well, like Lucretia’s Kashmir woods, but with that sharp top note reminiscent of the nicer perfume counter fragrances. This is the sort of scent that just screams to be worn with the most elegant dress for a night at the theatre or a date at an expensive restaurant... There are times when a delightful creaminess surfaces to smooth the chic musk…it’s not a dairy or sweet cream scent, but more like the scent of a luxury moisturising cream scented with perfume that costs a million dollars. Eventually this becomes a soft creamy musky wood scent, with just the barest hint of flowers. The rose has been surprisingly quiet. Verdict: this is such a stunning scent, and as one of Beth’s more perfumey fragrances (as in, it resembles perfume counter stuff, but is much nicer, and there's no alcohol), it instantly gives off an aura of glamour and sophistication, femininity at it’s most refined. At first it starts with a burst of the most glorious orchid note, rich and heady, with a sparkling musk background reminiscent of mature, high-end perfume. The rose is very subtle here and just helps to back up the musk, it gives the scent a similarity to Othello as well. The drydown is less orchid-y but much more glitzy and much more perfume-like, a creamy bright musk with a hint of something sharper to it reminiscent of more upscale scents. This scent makes me feel grown up and womanly, it’s a scent that feels like it should be worn with designer clothes or smart evening wear, not jeans and a t-shirt, although even just wearing it with casual clothes makes me feel classy inside even if I don’t look it. This is a beautiful and well made scent, and it’s also ideal for anyone who’s making the transition from designer scents to BPAL. I have a bottle on the way. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Yes, I need a bottle. If you like this, try: Shadow Witch Orchid, Magdalene, Othello, Rapture

Khajuraho 07 In the imp: this smells like the 06 version…sandalwood incense and flowers. Wet on skin: now the flowers really come out! They smell intoxicating, almost boozy. Dry: mmm, now I smell the dry sandalwood incense I remember from last year’s fresh Khaj. It’s similar to many the ‘honeyed woods’ scents that have come out this Lupercalia, this year there’s a theme of India and honeyed woodsy incense to the Lupercalia scents (and that’s a good thing!) so this scent fits right in. I smell flowers in here (mainly rose and tuberose), but I smell more of the dates, honey, sandalwood and maybe a bit of vanilla too. Very exotic and complex. After a while: oh, this gets better! Last year’s one went a little cloying after a while but this one doesn’t, I think the champaca in this year’s Lupercalias is softer. Now this smells like a beautiful warm honeyed amber sandalwood spice incense, with just a little bit of floral to it. But then the champaca does return with renewed force…will it overtake? It is very, very sweet, like very ripe fruit. But the champaca doesn’t go crazy, and I like that. This scent does have some truly beautiful moments when the champaca calms down and the amber, date, vanilla, honey and sandalwood come out and do their thing, mingling into a smooth, slightly fruity, soft and sweet gorgeous fragrance, warm and sensual. The sort of scent I want to nuzzle up to. It dries down as a feminine version of Luperci, with soft sweet notes taking the place of the patchouli and moss and juniper, but with the same honey-incense feel. I swear I even catch a hint of vetiver. Verdict: I actually prefer this version of Khajuraho to last year’s. This is all the best bits of Khaj 06, but whilst the champaca in last year’s seemed a little overwhelming at times, this is much nicer-it’s sweet, but there’s just the right amount of champaca in here, I think. Or maybe Beth is using a batch of champaca which doesn’t turn cloying on me this year, as other scents with this note are working much better on me than expected. But apart from that, the other notes get a chance to really show off a lot more-the honey, the vanilla, the amber and sandalwood, the floral notes as well. All those other notes are fabulous in here and there are some drop dead gorgeous moments when the amber, vanilla, honey and sandalwood, maybe the date too, merge into a gorgeous incense-y sweetness, honeyed and soft and smooth, comforting and exotic. This really is the feminine counterpart to Luperci, I think. I liked the original Khaj but was a little disappointed at the sweeter moments, but this new and improved version is perfect! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? I think I might like this better than 06. I’ve ordered a bottle. If you like this, try: Temple Viper, Luperci, Vasakasajja, Svadhopatika, Dr John Seward

Kalahantarika In the imp: very herbal lavender. Wet on skin: herbal, almost incense like lavender. Dry: mmm, this isn’t bad. It’s heavy on the lavender, but this seems to have an incense like base to it-maybe the elemi? The hyssop makes this smell more herbal, but I also get a scent of Indian incense behind it, like saffron or sandalwood-I have no idea what this is though. It also reminds me of one of the tarot/chakra/panacea scents which has lavender in it, but I can’t remember which one. It also reminds me of Gaueko, maybe Somnus too as it has a ‘knock you down lavender’ scent to it. After a while: oh wow, this sweetens beautifully! Now it smells like sweet herbal lavender over incense. What is causing this sweetness? Is it the Peru balsam? It now smells very soft and soothing, this, like Viparlabda, is very much a calming and healing herbal scent. I could definitely use this as a sleep scent. It becomes more ‘herbal incense’ as the lavender disappears, and I swear I get a little champaca here too, and something sandalwood/peppery as well. This does, however, become very sweet over time. A little too sweet, in fact. It smells like champaca, but this note isn’t listed…I don’t know what this sweet, almost cloying note is but it’s a little much. I do really like the incense and herbal scents that weave through the scent. The sweet note and the incense do seem to take it in turns to be the strongest notes in the scent. There are also times when I smell a slight hint of parchment or paper to the scent, similar to that of Clio and Dee, and I really like that-a nostalgic and stirring touch. It dries down to a soft herbal incense, very similar to the incense base that seems to run through the Lupercalia scents as a common theme, but this one is less woodsy-sweet, and smells a bit like patchouli. It now reminds me of a less masculine Clio. This strikes me as being a studious, serious scent. Verdict: at first this reminds me strongly of Gaueko, that soporific lavender incense, a heady purple haze that definitely seems to want to knock me out. Very herbal, almost therapeutic, it then gains a soft sweet incense scent, like a background of sweet Indian incense burning over lavender. Soft and herbal and dry and slightly smoky-ashy, very fragrant. I don’t know why but I also get a very strong and heavy sweetness behind it, almost hypnotic, it’s like tonka and/or champaca, but those notes aren’t listed. It has a softly papery drydown which is almost melancholic, it almost gives the impression of love letters on old paper, or letters of apology and reconciliation…but with a hint of incense to it. I like this scent a great deal and it certainly fits the theme and description. I’m not sure I’d wear it much-sometimes it is a little too sweet for me, but this could definitely be one scent to de-stress or fall asleep with, with its soft, herbal, sleepy lavender incense scent. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Maybe just the decant. If you like this, try: Gaueko, Somnus, Old Scratch, Ace of Swords, Vishuddha, Clio, Arcana, Vipralabda

Enraged Groundhog Musk In the bottle: a slightly buttery cake scent…and yes, I smell cassia here. It smells very similar to MB Underbed, only lighter. Wet on skin: now the cassia transforms into cardamom, and I get a slightly tangy undertone, possibly the cherry. Dry on skin: mmm, this is good! This smells like a delicious spicy soft vanilla caramel with a covering of dark and white chocolates! There is cardamom but I also think there may be a little cassia here (not plain cinnamon) as this reminds me of Underbed, but with less cake and no coconut. The cherry is really nice-like that of the Phantom Calliope, it doesn't go medicinal, but smells like sour cherry sauce. I even get a hint of, believe it or not, Buck Moon style musk, which must be the groundhog musk itself. This is such a fun fragrance! After a while: call my nose crazy, but I swear the musk in here is similar to that of Buck Moon's, that soft, fuzzy, slightly tangy skin musk, even with the slight greenery of the Buck. There's lots of gorgeous cardamom sprinkled over it (not as much cassia now) and I still smell the sharp fruity tartness of the sour cherry sauce, as well as dark chocolate. This is so good, and I love the way the musk detracts from the foodiness, adds an interesting twist to what would be an all-foody scent. And the caramel in here is surprisingly subtle! There's a surprising woody greenness to the scent that sometimes pops up, and the sharpness of the cherry is sometimes very prominent (it's not a bad sour scent though), but the soft furry vanilla-musk with chocolate and dry warm cardamom scent is very nice. There's also something almost toasted about this scent. And at drydown, the vanilla peeks out a little more, and the scent then begins to resemble another fuzzy little critter… namely, a beaver. This now reminds me of musky, cherry-chocolaty Beaver Moon! Then the drydown after about 5-6 hours is a fizzy-fruity sweet cherry over fuzzy vanilla chocolate musk, lighter and sweeter than before…indeed, the sweetness is like that of sugar cane, light and juicy. Verdict: this is possibly my favourite of the Enraged Musks so far. It's a fun, light hearted and delicious blend of happy foody notes, but there's nothing cloying here, nor is it a Gluttony-style overload. The caramel was very well behaved, and the spices were fantastic-yummy cardamom, dry and spicy and exotic, with a touch of sweet cinnamon-y cassia. The vanilla is warm and rich and turns slightly Beaver Moon-like at the end, the chocolate covered cherries are like good quality sour cherries covered in a dark chocolate ganache. But the musk, a fuzzy, soft skin/furry musk highly reminiscent of Buck Moon, prevents this scent from being 100% foody. It adds a fuzzy softness that is especially nice at the end when it merges with vanilla. I love this warm, playful fragrance, it is a fabulous mix of musk and gourmand-spicy notes. There are a few moments when the cherry's sourness prevents this from becoming a top favourite of the foody/spicy genres but at other times this is truly delicious, and I'm definitely glad I got a bottle. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? of course! If you like this, try: Monster Bait Underbed, The Phantom Calliope, Bakeneko, Velvet, Vice (I haven't tried this but it's chocolate cherry…)

Hope In the bottle: ohh, this reminds me of Possets Silver Roses, which I love. It's a gentle rose backed up with sugar and maybe vanilla. Wet on skin: the rose sharpens as soon as it hits skin, so this is sharper than SR now. Dry on skin: mmm, so beautiful. This is very different to SR now, which is a good thing. This is a sharp tea rose dusted in soft sweet sugar. I get a hint of something vanilla like underneath but it's mainly dry rose petals mixed with white sugar for now. This reminds me strongly of Kurukulla in that it smells of sweetness and sharp roses. After a while: now this softens so nicely. The rose's sharpness has settled a little and a gentle vanilla sugar starts to show itself. Now this starts to resemble Possets Frou Frou/Silver Roses a bit more, but it also smells a little bit like sugared Rose Red and Bearded Lady. This is gorgeous now. it becomes more and more like Bearded Lady over time, the scent of soft powdery icing sugar dusted over dry rose petals, and a subtle hint of vanilla. It also reminds me of rosy Antique Lace/Black Opal…I'm sure there's a white musk component to this. Verdict: I've tried a lot of 'sugared roses' scents and this is one of my favourites. It bears a few passing similarities to versions by Possets, Mara Fox and others, but it is also distinctly different and has that special 'Beth touch' to it. This is a beautiful fragrance where thorny tea rose contrasts with a delightful dusting of vanilla sugar. The rose here is surprisingly sharp, it's got real bite to it (makes me wonder-shouldn't Hope be the one baring her fangs in the picture?) I love the sugar in both twins, it's not the heavy caramel or brown sugar, it is actually very similar to the 'sugar' in the Lick It scents, except with flowers taking the place of the mint. Hope seems to me like the more confident twin, her rose note is gutsy and strong and tart, almost overtaking the sugar when wet. But at drydown, the powdered sugar comes out, sweetly infused with vanilla and with what seems like a little bit of white musk to round it off. This scent also seems like a great substitute for Bearded Lady, there's that same powdery soft rose aspect to it after a few hours. She is my favourite of the twins and I love this interpretation of the sugared rose theme as done by Beth. Gorgeous and feminine, a perfect contrast of sweetness and crisp sharp floral. I think I'll need more! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? yes! It's one of my new favourite BPAL roses. One to stockpile. If you like this, try: Kurukulla, Two Five and Seven, London, Rose Red, Lucy's Kiss, Bearded Lady, Black Opal, Lick It (Again)

Faith In the bottle: Parma Violets! This smells like sweet violets covered in sugar. Wet on skin: sweet sugar coated violets! This is such a pretty scent. Dry on skin: ah, now I see the Antique Lace comparison, although to me it seems closer to Black Opal, or Lick It with violet instead of mint. This is powdered violet mixed with icing sugar, but it actually smells more like Parma Violet sweets (right down to the chalkiness of such sweets). This is unbelievably pretty, and one of the few violet scents that doesn't smell 'old fashioned' to me. After a while: goodness, this really does smell like Parma Violets now. Just like those little purple pastilles-violets, sugar, and even a powdery chalky scent. But that's no bad thing at all-I really like this violet sweets scent that I get here, it's fresh and delicate, sweet and delightful. Eventually a soft powdery vanilla musk starts to appear, very much like the Lick It base, it smells like a fine powdery sugar and vanilla with violet on top, and a little white musk. The scent ends off nicely on that pale, sugary, powdery violet, a delightful fragrance. Verdict: this is the ultimate sugary violet scent. And it is a liquid version of those Parma Violet sweets I used to get in my Christmas stocking. I've said that about a few violet BPALs now but this one is the most 'Parma Violety' of the lot. Nothing can beat Faith for that title now. And surprisingly, it seems I really like smelling like this…for one, it's not the usual old-fashioned violet scent, it isn't dusty, traditional, cold and faded like some violet scents can be, it doesn't smell 'old' at all. The sugar in here is soft and crumbly, it's like icing sugar, and strongly reminds me of the sugar in Lick It, making this smell like a violet flavoured sweet, right down to the chalky-powdery scent of those sweets, but there's something like white musk at drydown which smoothes the scent off beautifully. This is light and dainty and uncompliacted, Faith is the softer twin here, and this scent is delicate and youthful. I do prefer Hope as I am more of a rose fan but this is my favourite of the violets so far along with Melisande, she is the violet cousin of Antique Lace, a younger Melisande or a more playful Le Serpent Qui Danse. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Of course. Thankfully I'm very fond of Faith as well as Hope. Definitely a set to stock up on. If you like this, try: Le Serpent Qui Danse, Melisande, Black Opal, Antique Lace, The Raven, Bearded Lady, Lick It (Again)

The Jersey Devil In the imp: pine and cranberries, and a warm, deep green note which I think is tomato leaf. Wet on skin: pine and berries and mushed up leaves. Dry on skin: mmm, this is really nice. Whilst most pine scents at the Lab are distinctly wintry and often dark, this one is warm and rich and brings to mind a garden by a pine forest in summer. This is a scent of sun warmed leaves and berries…I think the tomato leaf gives a very 'garden-like' scent to this, whilst the pine suggests wild forests, I smell blackberry brambles here too. I smell cedar at the base, a soft wood binding the leaves, pine and berries together. After a while: after a moment when I worry that the cranberry would turn to fermented fruit (like it did in Punkie Night, I think) it then turns to a pleasant dry cranberry scent. The pine has retreated and the deep green of tomato leaf and the warm wood of cedar are now more dominant. This now smells like mashed leaves and berries spread over wood and warming in the sun. It's a little faint now, though. It does smell like what I hoped Alecto would smell like (that blend turned to uber-olive on me). Verdict: this smells like a garden in late summer-early autumn, bordering a pine forest. I smell warm green tomato leaf and sun heated cedar planks, mingled with crushed berries and wild brambles and pine, a real mix of the garden and the wilder outdoors. It's very evocative, very fresh and natural. It doesn't last long but the drydown of dried cranberries over woods and deep evergreen greenery is very nice, and also very warm. It's not something I see myself wearing a lot but it's a very nicely crafted scent, genuinely outdoorsy, and it makes a change having a summery pine scent as well. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? I like it but it's not something I'd wear much. Nicely evocative though. If you like this, try: Alecto, Lampades, Bewitched, Hemlock, Punkie Night

In the imp: yikes! VETIVER OF DOOM! I smell some black musk too but mainly Evil V, the heavy stuff that won't come off! Wet on skin: lots of vetiver, whoa. This stuff is so strong! Dry on skin: mmm, actually, this isn't so bad. It's packed with the heaviest vetiver, but even that doesn't overwhelm. In fact, I can smell the musk, patchouli, pomegranate and perhaps the barest hint of ginger, and I can also smell Egyptian amber. Indeed, this actually smells a little bit like Mme Moriarty! I swear I'm getting hints of plum, or something fruity at least, and the patch in here smells similar to Mme's patch, with it's woodsy tobacco scent. The vetiver is strong but I actually like this a lot. After a while: now the vetiver is starting to take over. The fruity amber scent I got before has faded, and the scent is now beginning to resemble Typhon, with it's black musk and vetiver scent (the black musk adds a sleek deep sweetness to the gritty vetiver). The patchouli in here is also strong, it's very much like Mme Moriarty's dry smoky-woody patch, and it is on equal footing with the vetiver. It also has a nuttiness to it that reminds me of Erich Zahn's nutty musky vetiver. After a few hours the vetiver begins to turn distinctively metallic and smoky. And it gets stronger and stronger as the hours pass. That's a rare thing for a scent but the vetiver in here is powerful. It does turn slightly incense-y (heavier vetiver often does this and it's one of the nicer things about Evil V). I also wonder if the ginger here is red ginger (like in the SN and Moxie) as I get some asphalt in here too…and it smells like Brimstone now, though less rubbery/burnt. I preferred the amber-fruity-musky scent I got before. This vetiver needs the steel wool treatment… Verdict: at first, this goaty guy smells surprisingly nice, and he's the lovechild of Typhon and Mme Moriarty. This scent has the deep musk and intense vetiver of Typhon, and the exotic incense-y patchouli and fruitiness of Mme Moriarty, with hints of amber popping up here and there. It is dark and quite sexy at this time, a lovely fruity vetiver musk with gritty, woodsy patchouli, smooth and powerful. However, vetiver does what it does best, and this Haitian vetiver is particularly potent, like it was in Samhainophobia…it amps up and strengthens even as the rest of the scent fades, and becomes the dominant note, all other notes are powerless when vetiver rules supreme (mwa-ha-ha!). It is one of the few scents where the scent doesn't taper off as usual, it strengthens surprisingly a bit after a few hours. It's a lot nicer than I expected, but in the end, it seems the vetiver in here is a little too much for me-I much prefer the 'manly Moriarty' stage I got at the beginning. I prefer the other amber-vetiver Salon II scent, Three Gorgons, to this. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? not really. It's better than Malediction, but still too much vetiver for me, I'm afraid. If you like this, try: Mme Moriarty, Typhon, Samhainophobia, Brimstone, Music of Erich Zahn, Two Monsters

This BPAL perfume is just perfect for the eclipse. I find the scent really matched the maroon, dark amber and russet shades that the moon took on as it slipped behind the earth's shadow. I could also have worn Blood Moon as that also is a very suitable eclipse scent, but tonight I felt like slapping on the Schwarzer...and it was a good choice. It was one of the best lunar eclipses I've seen, especially in binoculars. My camera was playing silly-buggers with me so I only took a few photos...I'm not even sure how good my camera is with night images...I'll upload some on Monday if they are any good!