PurringPulsar

My gorgeous little kitty cat has just gone to the other side now. She had to leave today-I just got a call that she was so weak today that she couldn't eat, sleep or move much. A neighbour had to take her to the vet where the only option was to put her down. Now the house where she lived is so empty. I'll never hear those odd clicks and 'rrrrr' noises she used to make instead of meows. I'll miss her purrs and her soft fur and those bright white whiskers against a black face, her flashing green eyes, her elegant mannerisms-she was so expressive and intelligent, and so gentle-she'd never hurt a soul. Now without any feline presence in my life, I feel so lonely. The death of a pet is unbelievably harrowing to go through. It's the second time I've had this now. At least I still have her memories and I know she's still there, albeit in a place that I cannot reach for now-it almost feels like my departed loved ones are on the other side of a plane of existence, another dimension or universe that feels so close that I could touch it, and yet is physically inaccessible. But they are not gone completely. RIP my beautiful furry friend. You're with your sister now, in a happier place. eta: I just heard from my mum's friend who was looking after kitty as she slipped away. She mentioned seeing a pink glow in the conservatory where the cat used to sleep. It was probably a sunset reflection but I think it was more than that...I think she was saying goodbye as she followed the sunset, to join her sister among the stars. I think she's truly happy now. I am wearing BPAL Bastet in her honour, as she was always a true divine feline to me.

In the imp: black pepper with a hint of greenish flower stems. Wet on skin: hot black pepper and ginger and green lily stems. Dry on skin: this is very unusual! The most obvious note is the piquant fragrance of cracked black peppercorns. This is backed up by the heat of ginger. However I also smell a bouquet of white funereal flowers-not just flowers but their leaves and stems, stately callas and dainty lilies of the valley. These flowers risk turning to soap, but for now it smells like I've taken the pepper grinder and ground some pepper over some flowers, why I would do such a thing, I don't know, but that's what it smells like. It's a very unusual scent. After a while: lilies and lily stems. Now it smells like that sharp green stem scent I get in a lot of calla scents, but slightly blackened, almost burnt, and still peppery. It's almost soapy, almost waxy, but not quite. It just smells like slightly burnt, peppered flower stems. The scent fades fast leaving only a peppery but slightly soapy green flower stem scent behind, now a lot drier than before, it is quite faint after just a couple of hours. Verdict: at first this was a highly unusual mix of pepper and flowers. Dark, crackling pepper and a little ginger over white, wet flowers and their stems. Spicy flowers with a spike of greenery, and with that florist scent to it. After a while the pepper merges into the blooms and the scent becomes oddly smoky or burnt. The flowers of course do become soapy and sharply green as usual, mixing to form an odd peppery-burnt-soapy-white floral scent. I prefer my calla lily/lily of the valley scents to be well grounded with lots of heavier notes otherwise they turn to soap or waxy petals on me, and the pepper's spice, although interesting, doesn't ground the scent enough, and that also makes it fade fast. A very strange and intriguing scent, unique, and befitting the picture, but not my kind of scent. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? not really. If you like this, try: Temperance, Kweku Anansi (if you can find it), The Reaper and the Flowers, Asphodel

In the imp: interesting. I smell sophisticated manly perfume and a lot of moss. Wet on skin: lots of Spanish moss (yes, it is amping on me) with blackcurrant and tobacco, maybe some mahogany too? Dry on skin: whoa, this smells like very posh men's perfume. Very mossy, that's for sure, but at least the moss is letting some of the other notes come out. I can smell the fruity sharpness of the currant, and something 'perfumey' that reminds me of Manhattan, maybe it's the leather and khus (kush?), I also smell some tobacco but I can't identify most of the notes in here, but this overall smells like very expensive masculine perfume. I could imagine this wafting from the men's perfume counter in Harrods, but this doesn't smell as overwhelming as perfume-counter scents. After a while: the moss has now taken over the scent. Still, it's not as all consuming as the moss in Renfield or Bayou, it's a little drier as well, not as 'swampy'. It's now a little more powdery-green and the deeper notes seem to have moved off, I now smell orris in here, and a hint of musky ambrette. It almost smells like there's violet in here. It's still very much a man's scent. The drydown is a soft green powder of orris and moss, and the moss in here is very much a 'lichen' scent now, like moss on old stone. It's not as 'I smell like a well groomed gentleman' now. Verdict: this is very much a man's perfume, it's almost 'mainstream' in scent, sleek, grown up and sophisticated, any man wearing this scent oozes style and panache. I'm not familiar with at least half the ingredients here but the dominant note is moss, without question. I also get some sharper, cologne like notes, a bit of blackcurrant, some leather and a woodsy-perfumey fragrance that smells so much like something expensive from a department store. The Spanish moss, although prominent, behaves nicely here, and lets the other notes shine through, and the scent dries to a more powdery, soft scent with orris. It's an extremely well crafted scent, smells expensive and classy, like something from one of the big perfume houses. However it is really, really masculine, a little too much for me…I bet it would be gorgeous on a guy but this is one of the few male-oriented BPALs which is too manly for me to pull off…it smells vaguely aftershave/older man's cologne like on me. Not my thing, but I appreciate the artistry of the scent. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? No, it's too masculine for me. If you like this, try: Manhattan, RM Renfield, Bayou, Cathode

Vasakasajja In the imp: a sweet, fresh fruity floral! Wet on skin: I now smell something grainy-maybe the amaranth? But it’s still sweet and fruity-floral. Dry: this is very pretty! It smells like cool wet tropical blooms-there’s champaca here but it’s not taking over just yet-and hints of grainy and fruity notes all around. It smells like sweet scented flowers soaked by rain-it’s a very cool floral scent, and surprisingly wet as well. I think the orchid is the main note here, with champaca supporting it and an unusual ‘cereal’ scent, like oats (but it doesn’t make me smell like muesli/porridge). The vanilla and tonka are subtle for now but just add to the sweetness. After a while: wow, the champaca isn’t turning to ‘banana blossom of doom!’ on me! It does have slight banana like tones to it but they aren’t all-consuming or cloying. This is a softer champaca, sweetened by vanilla, with a hint of something oaty or hay like, and with orchid on top, this orchid is probably gives the impression of a fresh watery floral. This now brings to mind flower petals floating on a crystal clear stream, and soft creamy pink coloured flowing silk robes. The champaca does threaten to make this scent quite cloying or over-sweet at times though, thankfully the scent’s gentle watery scent tempers the champaca nicely, and there’s an odd reedy/dry grasses scent which seems to have developed from the oat-like scent I got before. This floral scent does have a similar feel (but doesn’t smell like) Peony Moon, for some reason…it’s a very springy scent. The grain like note does smell a little bitter and strong at times, like harsh dry grasses (think Scarecrow), contrasting with the soft floral sweetness. But I do love the pretty fresh floral scent I get most of the time. Verdict: at first this beautiful sweet floral gives me the impression of exotic blooms drenched by monsoon rains or floating on clear streams, and of billowing silk curtains. It’s a very cool, wet, fresh and clean sweet floral, exotic and voluptuous but also youthful and dewy. This strikes me as being so cooling and fresh, it feels like a fresh wet breeze after a heavy rain, it seems made for stuffy summer days. The drydown is when the champaca comes out a little more, but it never becomes the cloying sweet scent I fear. There is an odd note to this that smells like grain, sort of like oats or wholemeal…I’m wondering if that’s the amaranth (which is a cereal)? This note does seem to turn oddly straw-like at times, and I’m not so sure about that scent…but other than that, the cool sweet watery flowers sweetened even more by the tonka and a little vanilla is gorgeous. It’s a scent that’s made for hot weather, I think. I’m debating whether to get a bottle or not-the floral scent I get is so unique and pretty, I’m not sure about the oddly 'straw and oats' moments, but I definitely want to keep the decant at least. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Yes. Not sure if I need a bottle (I’m considering it) but I’m keeping the decant. If you like this, try: Regan, Dr John Seward, Khajuraho, Peony Moon

Chintamani-Dhupa In the imp: a sweetly honeyed woody incense-it’s almost like a mix of Svad and Luperci. Wet on skin: mmm, now the honey and sandalwood are very noticeable. It’s very reminiscent of Svad at this point, but maybe sweeter. Dry: sandalwood and honey, with a hint of something softly floral and a clean note which may be pine. This is really pretty! I agree that it smells clean, but it’s not soapy or washing powdery…this smells like a cool mountain breeze scented with exotic incense-it’s not heavy or resinous, just softly woody and sweet and fresh, like a mix of the smell of trees in the forest and Indian incense. After a while: eventually the ‘clean blast’ settles down and the scent I then get is a beautiful sweet sandalwood. Very soft and lightly spicy, this is a gentle exotic wood, very sandalwood-y, but maybe with a little oude lurking nearby, with other spices and honey too. But it is subtle, in the best way-it’s like the smoke that lingers after burning good quality sandalwood incense…but it’s not headshoppy/hippie-like either. This smells like something I’d expect to smell in an Indian temple, not Camden market. And the throw it gives off-unexpected wafts of spicy sandalwood-is even more beautiful. This is really growing on me…it gets richer, spicier, sweeter, more fragrant and warmer with time, there are times when this smells like a spice market, it really is a ‘spices of the orient’ scent. there are times when the sandalwood even develops a slightly lemony-spicy scent, reminiscent of some other ‘Egyptian sandalwood’ scents from other companies. After a while I get an almost frankincense/saffron like warmth at the base of the fragrance. It also reminds me of Tushnamatay, Ahatoor and Kathmandu at this point-a warm, soothing, golden incense. This is beautiful! There’s a lotus/frangipani like floral sweetness to it at the end after a few hours, giving a softly pink blush to this golden scent…and at this point the scent is reminiscent of the drydown of Sol Invictus, for some reason. Verdict: I have a feeling this will become one of my top favourite sandalwood scents in BPAL, right up there with Underpants and Morocco. It does start with that clean scent other reviews mention-though it’s more like clean linen and mountain air than washing powder. But after this moment of cool airiness, the scent warms up and the sandalwood begins to work its magic. It then turns to a wonderful sandalwood incense, warm and spicy, it smells just like eastern spice markets and the scent of incense that has burnt and just lingers in a room-it’s not very smoky though. Delicious tones of sweet honey and spices as well as a beautiful creamy floral wind their way through the scent, and the gorgeous golden-pink drydown of spiced sandalwood resting on soft flower petals is beautiful. It’s a subtle scent-sometimes too subtle but I also like the gentleness of this scent-it’s like the whisper of incense lingering caught in a perfume. I love this and need at least two bottles! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Definitely. I think I need to stock up on this. If you like this, try: Svad…, Luperci, Kathmandu, Sri Lanka, Khajuraho, Tushnamatay, Sol Invictus

I know. It's hard when a pet's life is so short...I've lived with my cats for most of childhood so it's particularly painful this time because there's no furry company. It'll hurt even more when I go home...the hardest thing is getting back to doing my work tonight-it has to be done, but it's really hard when this has just happened.

She's still alive, but I've never seen her so weak before. She's got stomach tumours, just like my other cat, but not as painful so we're not putting her down just yet. They're eating away at her life though. She's so old anyway, I knew it would be the end soon, I just didn't expect it to be that soon...I just hope I can see her again next weekend. It will be so sad to no longer have that feline company I loved so much.

Priala In the bottle: oh wow! This smells like the most wonderful cinnamon and a little hint of soft myrrh. Wet on skin: mmm, now the myrrh really starts to show itself, a wonderful deep resin topped with fiery cinnamon. this reminds me of a spicy myrrh based incense I bought some time ago. Dry on skin: whoa, this is beautiful! really, really good. It's mainly myrrh, and this is one of the best and truest myrrh notes I've smelt in BPAL, it smells just like the resin, gently smouldering but not charred or burnt in the slightest-this isn't the one problematic myrrh that smells really burnt on me. At times this resin smells quite boozy, intoxicating is the word that comes to mind. Warming it up is a sparkling, dry, heated layer of cinnamon-this isn't a foody cinnamon though, but a darker, less sweet, incense like one. After a while: the myrrh develops fantastic dark golden and aged tones and it smells so much like a sticky fragment of the actual resin. It even smells a little like amber in some ways. It does smell almost church like, or Christmas-like, at times, but this is much darker, more like a ritual incense scent. I could definitely imagine a beautiful phoenix combusting into a scent like this. The cinnamon is still fantastic but doesn't take over, it doesn't smell like 'red hots' or cakes at all, but like the little bits of cinnamon bark I have in one of my loose incense blends. This is a hypnotic scent. Over time the myrrh note becomes more golden and drier, which is what many natural myrrh scents do on me, they take on an almost hay-like tone, golden and pale and dry and warm. It almost seems like there may be some opoponax in here as well because at this point, it is also deeply sweet, and resembles a spicier Schwarzer Mond. Indeed this does take on the almost Coke-like resinous dark sweetness of opoponax after a few hours, and I love that. The cinnamon just adds the perfect level of spice to this. Verdict: when I heard about the ancient legend of the phoenix, in which it was reborn from a pyre of cinnamon and myrrh, I though 'Beth needs to do a phoenix scent like this!' And now she has, and I think it is the best of all the phoenix blends! It is the most wonderful mix of deep rich myrrh resins, over which dance sparks of hot cinnamon. I am strongly reminded of an incense or oil I bought once, it was Egyptian-inspired, and it smelt strongly of cinnamon and myrrh, and this smells very similar to that (maybe it was a kyphi blend?). I adore the myrrh note in here-in fact, I love the myrrh Beth has been using for the recent CT scents, like Eshe, Asp Viper and in here as well-it is rich and sweet and smells just like myrrh should. Wonderful and deep and with a slight dry reedy golden drydown. The cinnamon in here is beautiful-not 'red hot' smelling, but it doesn't smell like baking either-this smells like the finest quality cinnamon sticks. At the end, a delightful sweet brown resin sweetness highly reminiscent of opoponax comes out. This is one of my favourite myrrh scents from Beth, beautiful from start to finish. I'll need more than one bottle, I think this will be worn a lot in winter. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Yes! I want more of this fiery lady, she's going to be stockpiled! And I bet she'll age wonderfully. If you like this, try: Chimera, Red Phoenix, Eclipse, Al Shairan, Three Witches, Sin, Schwarzer Mond, Black Phoenix

Asp Viper In the bottle: dark bitter almond with just a tinge of sweetness. Wet on skin: the almond becomes nuttier when it hits skin, smelling like home made marzipan. Dry on skin: wow, I've never had almond last so long on the skin…it doesn't seem to be fading! For now, this smells like boozy marzipan, or marzipan soaked in wine or amaretto, but the deep rich myrrh and hints of Snake Oil seem to whisper underneath this almond layer. Then it morphs slowly from mushy booze soaked marzipan to dry sweet toasted almonds (ie now it's the smell of almonds as nuts, not cherries), and I get a very slight resemblance to Queen of Sheba-the same feel of toasted almonds and 'desert spices', but without honey. This is so exotic and luxurious. I don't smell mandarin though. After a while: it's not long before the almond mellows out (but still retains it's toasted, dry nutty scent) and the Snake Oil starts to wind it's way into the scent, adding it's distinctive vanilla-sweet deep richness. This smells like a drier, dustier SO, a desert serpent slithering through the sandy ruins of antiquity at sunset. In addition to SO, there's a feel of incense to this, the myrrh note seems similar to that of Priala, which I love, but there also seems to be a sharper, more burnt myrrh to this too-but such a small quantity, making this smell a little smoky but not fully charred. But the Snake Oil aspect of the scent has the most throw, all around me is that sweet vanilla incense scent. And it's the SO that comes out even more over time, so this scent seems to turn into a more incensy, dry, hypnotic take on Snake Oil. I can't wait to see what happens when it ages! The scent smoothes out and becomes a gentler cousin of SO, almost like a delicately powdery SO with a soft dusting of sand and incense ash. It now also seems to be a fusion of Bastet and Snake Oil. This is beautiful stuff! Verdict: I adore this wonderful variant on the Snake Oil theme…it certainly fits the theme of Cleopatra's serpentine companion…first it smells like marzipan (the good kind) with booze, then turns into some kind of decadent almond dessert I could imagine an Egyptian queen eating, sweet spicy almonds. Then it morphs into ground toasted almonds giving the impression of warm sand over a rich smoky myrrh note and then out comes the Snake Oil to make this mysterious, alluring scent even more delicious. The drydown is the most beautiful mix of Snake Oil and Bastet or Queen of Sheba, soft almond powder and incense with the shadowy scent of myrrh swirling around the familiar sensual vanilla sweetness of Snake Oil. This is entrancing and yet also smells like a less heavy version of Snake Oil. It is seductive and warm and dry, dusty, a scent of desert sunsets and ancient temple incense, but sweetened with that Snaky vanilla spice I love so much. I can't wait to see the effect that age will have on the gorgeous myrrh in here, not to mention the Snake Oil base…I love this to bits. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? How could I not keep this? To use the predicted-to-be-much-overused pun, this kicks asp! I need to stock up on this scent! If you like this, try: Snake Oil, Bastet, Queen of Sheba, Hecate, Black Lotus, Black Phoenix

Proshitapathika In the imp: lemon sherbet! The verbena is strong here and it smells sweet and fizzy as well as lemony. Wet on skin: verbena instantly sharpens, but hints of musk and iris start to come out. Dry on skin: mmm, another surprisingly good Heroine. The verbena is strong here, but I smell soft iris and deep musk underneath this lemony layer. And the anise/fennel are actually very nice here-not the liquorice-fest I was dreading, they add a slight herbal edge to this lemon-iris scent. It also reminds me of Jonathan Harker. After a while: as the verbena starts to take a back seat, the scent is all about the musk and iris, fringed with just the barest, most acceptable hints of anise. It now reminds me of the musky, soft, almost velvety iris of Morella, with the musk taking the place of the barely-there civet in that scent. The iris also develops Harker's fruity tones. It's much nicer than I expected. Then, the scent becomes a really musky iris after a few hours-in fact, I'm quite surprised at how feral this musk is! Not on the level of civet, of course, but it's quite animalistic…dark and shadowy and a little wild, slightly masculine too, but with a sheen of purple-blue iris to calm it. It reminds me of Siberian musk, but without the sweet spice that SM has. And oddly, it dries down to patchouli…I have no idea why but I get patchouli appearing here after a few hours. It reminds me of when the musk in Krampus suddenly transformed into patchouli on my skin. Verdict: when I saw the notes for this, I saw fennel and anise and thought this would be the 'attack of the rampant liquorice bootlace'. But that was not so-in fact, this scent is more interesting and less anise-y than I expected. It starts off smelling like another sweet altogether-lemon sherbets, thanks to the fizzy, bright verbena. This then leaves to reveal the iris, a soft fruity-floral-purple scent, and a surprisingly heavy, animalistic yet sophisticated dark musk which has a slight patchouli like feel to it. This musk is quite masculine, and actually makes me think of the scent of the boyfriend who left, and the heroine who waits for him to return inhales the scent of his clothes and his perfume for comfort. I thought that was quite fitting for the scent's theme. The iris softens this rugged musk nicely. This is a very evocative and well crafted scent-and I like the way the anise and fennel are very discreet, adding a little spice but not smelling overpowering. I'm not sure how much I'd wear it, it does smell a little too manly at times, but in a nice way…I'm glad I got to try it, it pleasantly surprised me…if you fear anise, do not fear this scent! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Maybe not-it's not me, but it's very pleasant. If you like this, try: Whitechapel, Jonathan Harker, Morella, Mad Hatter, Krampus

Vipralabda In the imp: warm hay layered with various herbs. A herbally-medicinal scent. Wet on skin: mmm, this is actually quite lovely. Soft, gentle herbs and sun warmed hay. Dry on skin: this is surprisingly good! It's a very soothing, warm scent of spices, herbs, hay and a hint of moss and sweet benzoin. The hay note is soft and golden, like a warm summer's evening in a golden field, that golden dryness enhanced by the camomile-this blue camomile seems a lot softer and deeper than the Roman kind. I also smell something spicy, like saffron-I have no idea what that is? The sage note in here is gorgeous too and the moss adds a touch of green powder whilst benzoin really smoothes the scent off with it's gentle sweetness. This is actually a very therapeutic scent, calming and healing. It reminds me of a summer evening in the South of France or Italy. After a while: the spice and sage tone down a bit, the hay still rules the scent. This is what I hoped to get from Scarecrow, a real genuine 'harvested fields in August' scent, but this one smells almost like an aromatherapy blend as well, soft calm herbs still peek out here and there. I'm wondering if this warm spice I get is the melaleuca ericifolia (which, apparently, is an Australian tree also called 'rosalina', according to one e.o. site)? There really is a feel of 'herbal remedy' to this, and it's very reassuring. It then starts to over-sweeten a little, gaining the 'very ripe fermenting fruit' scent I get from some herbal scents, only this doesn't smell sickly or cloying. It's actually a very pleasant, smooth fruity sweetness overlaid with the hay. It also smells like herbal incense, there's a slight smoke to this, like sage burning. I also smell something reminiscent of either rosemary, basil or juniper. It also reminds me of Bitch now, funnily enough! The scent's fruity scent does fade and reverts back to warm herbal hay again, with a hint of something almost reminiscent of vetiver. Verdict: despite this scent being described as the scent of a sad, rejected, betrayed woman, this actually smells more like the kind of scent to soothe and alleviate such feelings. It's very therapeutic, almost cathartic as a scent, it makes me think of taking a brisk walk in the countryside to clear your mind when emotions are too overwhelming, the fresh air does you good…and so does the herbal, healing scent of this oil. It's like a warm summer evening out in a field, or like a Mediterranean evening with the scent of herbs and dry grasses in the air. Golden and dry and warm and herbal, soft camomile and hay, a little sage, and a few spices. The benzoin adds a welcome comforting sweetness to it all. There are a few moments of fruitiness to it as well, and this blend is similar in feel as Bitch, I suppose I could also use it for the same purposes. I was expecting this scent to be harsh, an off-putting herbal, but I was surprised at how good it smelt and how it made me feel. This really does calm me down, I also agree that it feels more like the Panaceas, and thus could be used as aromatherapy rather than perfume, for moments if I ever feel bitter, hurt, rejected or betrayed, or even just stressed out or irritated for any reason. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Just the imp for now. If you like this, try: Scarecrow, Antony, Scales of Deprivation, Bitch, Bitter Moon

Svadhinaopatika In the bottle: a very faint honey over strong sandalwood. Very, very woodsy. Wet on skin: lots of wood! It smells more like cedar than sandalwood now, but I get a hint of something spicy to it, as well as honey. Dry on skin: mmm, this is lovely. Honeyed woods, that's what this smells like. mainly sandalwood, though I think the oude or massoia may be the other woody note. over the top of these heavy woods is a gentle drizzling of sweet honey. I don't get any amber yet, but I get a slight tinge of fruity sharpness which could be from the currant…it's a dry currant smell. After a while: the wood takes a back seat as the currant note comes out in force now, and it smells like raisins. I don't mean that in a bad way though, I don’t mind the smell of raisins…but it does remind me more of dried currants than fresh or sugary ones that I usually smell in BPAL. Sharp and dry and dark, and sometimes a little bit like wine. So now it smells like honey and raisins/wine over deep fragranced wood. Interesting combination, and quite nice. And then, another morph. The raisin scent starts to mellow out with the honey now taking it's turn to become the central note. And what a lovely honey this is, very much like the Honey SN, a wildflower honey which has a tang to it, but has absorbed the scents of the woods and the fruit. Underneath is a slight whisper of amber. I also get a hint of champaca like floral to this, but it's not overwhelming. It's like a less sweet, less floral version of Khajuraho. Then the currant starts to sweeten and resemble the currant in All Souls, and the amber really is starting to surface now. Then the currant comes out again and sharpens to it's raisin state again, then the honey returns and turns O-like, and then the woods make a comeback, and then the amber shows up, and so on…this is quite a changeable scent! I also smell the hint of salt that Babylon mentions-this is quite a sexy scent. There are even moments where the amber really shows itself, and I love that. After a few hours of complex morphing the scent eventually settles into the loveliest drydown-beautiful honeyed amber with a hint of sandalwood. Sort of like honeyed Jacob's Ladder. This gorgeous amber is very reminiscent of Egyptian amber, and it's layered with the sharp golden honey that came before. Verdict: this is a sexy shapeshifter of a scent! Starting off strongly woodsy (when I feared it would be too masculine), this then moves into stages where honey and currant dance seductively through the scent. At times both notes have their sharp moments, and their sweet moments. And at times it reminds me of Honey SN, at other times it's like honey soaked raisins, with stages of wood and honey and fruit changing all the time. But the best bit happens at the end, when the amber comes out and mixes beautifully with the amber. this is a gorgeous, rich golden amber, and I just love the golden, luscious, rich golden fragrance that comes out of the union of honey and amber at drydown. This is what I wanted O to be like! This is a wonderful exotic honey scent and I'm glad I went for a bottle of it! now I need to learn to spell and pronounce it… Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Yes! Not sure if I need another bottle but this is a lovely honey scent with a fantastic drydown. If you like this, try: O, Khajuraho, Queen of Sheba, Osun, Jacob's Ladder, Cupid Complaining to Venus

Dolce Stil Nuovo In the bottle: a soft, fresh, almost soapy, lavender and white musk scent. It reminds me of Lurid and, oddly, Et Lux Fuit. Wet on skin: this is pretty! But it does smell like ELF with lavender. I'm not sure why I'm getting lemon and honey here… Dry on skin: this is very nice. It's a light, gentle scent, predominantly lavender and musk…an airy, breezy, clean white musk. I don't get much rose or jasmine here but I think I smell some carnation spicing up the scent a little. But this really does smell like Et Lux Fuit meets Lurid. Maybe it's the amber, carnation and musk doing this? I like that…though I was just expecting more in the way of the rose and amber. After a while: what the? After five minutes of pleasant, gentle breezy white musk and lavender, this has just turned very weird. I now smell rose, but something in here smells odd-it smells almost salty and wet, but not in a nice way. In fact, it reminds me of…potatoes. Wet salted potato crisps, in fact. I know, that's a weird thing to say but that's what comes to mind. It also smells like brine. I do smell the musk and the flowers, but I have no idea what that sharp, salty, wet, pickled brine scent is. Could it be the jasmine? Sometimes this note can be beautiful, or it can be troublesome…but I've never had it turn to potatoes/brine before. The bizarre thing is that away from the wrist, this scent gives off a lovely throw of delicate floral musk and dried rose petals rounded with sweet amber every now and then. But sniffing my wrist close up, it's sharp, strange, and aggressively salty! Then, it doesn't have that weird potato crisps scent but when I smell this close up, it's still salty. Like soft gentle flowers caked in thick salt. Really strange. This saltiness does fade over time and the scent becomes pleasant after a few hours, like a more floral, rose touched version of Et Lux Fuit. I smell the vanilla and amber now. I really like this stage, I just don’t know I can deal with the salty stage, which is a shame because the final scent is so pretty! Verdict: this was quite a heartbreaker. I thought that it would work spectacularly. The notes listed usually work like a dream on me, and it sounded like one of those rose-based sweet oriental opulent florals that I adore. But something went very, very wrong a few minutes after I applied it. I don't know why or how but after a pleasant Lurid-style white musk with white musk a scary salty note suddenly went rampant through the scent, giving this scent either the smell of potato crisps soaked in brine or flowers covered in thick white salt. It was very unsettling and unusual, especially since this odd salt note was only detected near the skin, and the throw was really pretty. And to add insult to injury, the drydown is very pretty and what I was hoping to get from this scent from the start. I think scents that turn beautiful after a horrible first hour or two (or turn horrible after a beautiful first hour of wear) are worse than scents that just smell bad all the way through, because they make me torn as to whether to keep them or not (indecisive Libra Moon that I am). And I'm puzzled by this scent because theoretically, it should work-but it didn't. I think I'll swap/sell it because even though it smells nice at the end, it's very much like Et Lux Fuit which I like but have enough of. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? probably not. I'm sad about this turning so strange on me. I really wanted this to work. If you like this, try: Lurid, Et Lux Fuit, Sophia, Three Brides, Lucy Westenra, Queen Mab

Basil In the imp: mmm, this smells like real basil, but oddly, it also smells slightly anise-like. Almost like liquorice. Interesting. Wet on skin: anise and herbs…this smells like liquorice and basil! Dry: oh no…I was hoping for basil but this smells like anise and fennel. It also smells just like Bonjela! I was hoping this would smell like Italian herbs, even pesto…but I get mouth ulcer gel from this! Slightly herbal but a little too anise like for me. After a while: ah, after about 30-45 minutes, the anise like scent dies down and a more characteristically herbal scent appears. Now this begins to smell like pesto! But in a good way-it doesn’t smell too savoury-in fact, I smell something almost fruity-sweet to it. It smells like a blend of herbs as opposed to pure basil, or like dry basil leaves. It then becomes dry basil leaves and starts to become fainter and fainter. Verdict: I was hoping this would smell just like the fresh basil that grows on my mum’s kitchen windowsill. The stuff that smells so Italian, so much like pesto and delicious pasta dishes (but without the tomato sauce and garlic and mozzarella etc). But this smelt predominantly like anise to start with. That really surprised me. It smelt like ouzo and Bonjela and I wasn’t expecting that. This anise note fades away though and is replaced by some rich herbal green scents (basil with other herbs like oregano and a little thyme or tarragon), which then fades into dry basil, which smells much more true to the basil scent I was expecting than it did when wet-that’s when it gains it’s pesto like scent. It’s an unusual, intriguing herbal scent but I don’t think I’d wear it much as a perfume-though it may work better in blends. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? I might swap this.

Lime In the imp: oh yeah, this smells like lime. More specifically, a lime fruit pastille. Sweet and fizzy and vivacious, this is a happy lime note. Wet on skin: still pure sugared lime. Dry: oddly, this smells a little bit like swimming pool when dry-but that’s no bad thing, as I like the smell of swimming pools (brings back happy memories). Apart from that slight hint of chlorine, it still smells like sugary lime. This isn’t a sour, sharp lime, but a sweet and effervescent citrus note, like lime flavoured sweets-the green ones are always the ones that get ignored, but I adore the scent of lime sweets that I get here. After a while: the scent starts to fade, the lime loses it’s tang but actually lasts longer on the skin than I expected! I still smell warm sugary lime sweets here, with just the barest hint of swimming pool to it. then it really does fade away completely, it’s barely there after a couple of hours. Verdict: this lime is bright, happy and zingy, and smells like sipping a margarita (though this has the salt replaced by sugar) by the pool…right down to the scent of the pool itself! This is such a fun, lively lime scent, a real ‘feel good’ fragrance. Sadly, like most citrus scents, it doesn’t last. But it was so good whilst it did! It's really sunny and fizzy and 'happy-making' stuff, one of the best lime scents ever. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? I only have an imp with a tiny scraping of this oil-I’m keeping it but I think I’ve used up the best of this oil!

Slobbering Pine In the imp: pine, but with a soapy wet greenness. Wet on skin: now this really does smell like pine cleaner. Dry: lots and lots of green, wet pine. Now it doesn’t smell like toilet cleaner, but it’s like being attacked by a giant pine tree. Imagine being whomped by the Whomping Willow but instead of this monster tree being a willow, it’s a pine. It’s a full on pine explosion, like I’ve been rolling in Christmas tree needles for days. There’s a wet, dewy quality to this pine though. it also reminds me slightly of Wolf Moon’s pine, but less cold and sweet. After a while: now I smell the ‘electric aquatic’ scent of Tempest and Lightning mixed with the ‘waxy wet cardboard’ scent I got from Tears appearing behind the pine. It smells like dry pine bark backed up by an aquatic/ozone note that doesn’t really agree with me-it smells like the ‘static drier sheets’ scent I get with stormy ozones. It now smells like a pine tree with lightning flashing all around it. And I don’t like stormy scents…then this becomes a green version of the likes of Tempest-lots of peppery, electric ozone here, and I also smell moss here-not delicate powdery oak moss, but the scrubby, gritty, lichen like moss of RM Renfield that I wasn’t crazy about. Verdict: I was hoping this scent would be of pine sap, that’s what the name brought to mind. I love the scent of pine resin, exactly like from the Mediterranean pines Medvssa mentions-it’s messy stuff but it smells so good. I don't get that at all here. This smells like a pine tree overgrown with thick moss caught in a thunderstorm. Which may sound wonderfully poetic to some, but on my skin, that smells like a mutant Christmas tree covered in masses of suffocating scrubby swampy moss, draped in drier sheets and with an overwhelming whiff of ‘photocopier ozone’. I actually preferred the first stage where the pine was truly dominant in this scent, and not the electrified tumble dried mossy bark scent I get at the end. This one will have to go, it ain’t my thing, I’m afraid. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Nope. If you like this, try: Wolf Moon 07, Yew Trees, Hemlock, Black Forest, Knecht Ruprecht, Thanatopsis, Jersey Devil

Rosewood In the imp: roses, but woody. This rosewood note smells like roses. It reminds me of Winter of our Discontent. Wet on skin: roses, but now more of the wood comes out, and a hint of the bitter quality of rosewood e.o. also appears. Dry: this is a very high quality rosewood oil that Beth uses, most of the rosewood e.o.’s I’ve smelt have a bitter, medicinal scent to them. This has that distinctive scent, but toned down so it’s not as medicinal, but the wood smells like roses as well. This really lives up to its name! It smells like dried roses in a wooden box, with a hint of something almost geranium like to it. After a while: the scent isn’t as light and soft as the rosewood in Séance, but a little more rosy than expected. It is, however, starting to turn a little sour now, darker and a bit sharper. Kind of like ‘pickled rose petals and wood’, that’s the best way I can describe it. Edenssixthday mentioned it smelling like Imp of the Perverse, and I definitely see the comparison here. Verdict: surprisingly complex with a greyish-pink woody tone, hints of the fragrant yet slightly bitter scent I associate with rosewood, and gorgeous accents of dry rose petals, it smells like a box in which rose petals were kept for centuries, it’s an ‘old’ scent. This is the rosewood from Winter of our Discontent and Cup of Death, and reminds me of a darker, drier, sharper version of Séance. It’s a much nicer rosewood than most, very good quality, but I’m not as keen on the drydown when it turns slightly pickled on me-I much prefer the light, airy, dusty and delicately fragrant wood of Séance. But I’m glad I gave this rare scent a try…I prefer rosewood as a scent component than a single note though. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? I think I’ll see if I can swap this SN sniffy for another one.

I'm really worried about my kitty Tingle now. She's not been eating or drinking and she's worryingly thin and frail. I went to the animal hospital and she was given a checkup and put on a drip because she just won't eat. The vets think it may be a kidney infection, I hope it's curable (and not too expensive) but I'm just worried it may be something worse. I just don't need my only other kitty passing away at this time, not when I'm already bogged down with study stress and loads of coursework. I'm actually a little scared for her-I know she's old but I don't want her to leave me now. Anyway, my idea. I'm toying with the idea of writing an article for the uni newspaper about BPAL, I'm sure there are many people at my uni who'd be interested (and I'm getting bored of the stink of Lynx spray and Eau de Chav that I often smell round my campus). I'm also a little nervous about having an article and having it published since I've never been involved with the uni paper at all, and I'm also a little scared about being 'a little bit famous', and having people at uni-even friends-suddenly come up to me and ask about the article...I know that sounds really stupid but I am terribly shy with subjects that I don't normally talk about outside the internet (my talk about BPAL is strictly online, with the exception of meet-n-sniffs) I think one idea would be to wear BPAL to uni and note any compliments/comments, I'd take that as interest, and maybe I could get writing. I also need something else...lots and lots of TIME. Which I have none at the moment, with coursework and all.

The Agony of Longing In the bottle: a soft, gentle sweet rose with drops of pear juice all over. Wet on skin: roses and sweet sugared pears, now with freesia. This smells like Ace of Hearts. Dry on skin: this is very, very pretty indeed. In fact, it's quite gorgeous! It's mainly the most delightful rose sweetened gently with pear syrup, just like sprinkling sugar on a pear and pouring the sweetened juice on rose petals. The violet and Queen Elizabeth root (I think it's orris?) adds a delicate powdery feel, and the freesia note is so good, sweetly fragrant and recognisable. This is reminiscent of Ace of Hearts, but whilst that (sadly) sometimes turns to air freshener on me, this doesn't. It's almost traditional and old fashioned as a scent but not 'granny-like' or 'frumpy'. After a while: the violet never takes over this scent, it never threatens to make the scent a little too old fashioned for me to pull off. In fact, after an hour or two, the freesia becomes the star of the scent, and as freesia is such an underused note in BPAL, I'm glad it's so noticeable. The rose isn't as strong as before but it supports the freesia beautifully, and the pear note here now smells very true and fruity. Over time, the balance of power switches to the rose once more and the scent ends on a slightly more melancholy scent of dry rose petals. Verdict: this was the Agony scent that appealed most in terms of scent and especially concept-longing certainly applies to my relationship situation right now (or lack of it) as I am longing for a lover, so I found it rather apt that this was my Inquisition offering. And it's a lot nicer than I expected. I totally agree that this is a wistful scent, nostalgic, emotional but not heartbreakingly sad. It brings to mind a young woman from a Jane Austen-style romantic novel, waiting expectantly for her loved one to return, or longing for love to come in to her life, a feeling of yearning with a sweet hint of optimism. The scent itself is a delightful scent of rose, pear and freesia with a hint of violet. The scent is slightly traditional but not musty and old and granny-like at all, there's a fruity sweet wet freshness from the pear. But it's the freesia which I love most about this scent, it's nice and strong and smells just like a bunch of those fragrant and colourful flowers, and I'm so glad to smell this note in BPAL. It's such a touching fragrance and I do love rose scents-and this is a new favourite, thanks to the freesia. I'm not sure whether to swap this or keep it-but I'd be happy if I was destined to keep it. It really does capture the feeling of longing for love in a scent. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? this is so beautiful but as I have a decant of this on the way, I'm still considering doing a swap for a bottle of Passion (ha ha, yeah right!) If you like this, try: Marie, Ace of Hearts (if you can find it!), Maiden, Moon Rose, Bess, Kurukulla

Dark Delicacies In the bottle: whoa. This is a beautiful black orchid-dominated sweet floral scent. Heady and mysterious, a garden of night blooming flowers. It does smell similar to Black Moon. Wet on skin: it's still black orchid, but now I can smell smoke, patchouli, fruit and coconut winding their way through the flowers. Dry on skin: mmm, this is good. It reminds me of another BPAL but I can't remember what right now…oh yes! It reminds me of Black Moon meets Mme Moriarty! I know, maybe my nose is delirious, but I'm getting a hint of MM's patchouli and fruit scent here, along with a bouquet of hypnotic floral notes, and creamy coconut. The orchid and osmanthus are prominent (I don't know what devil's trumpet smells like), and I can smell the smoky resins and sweet tonka, as well as patchouli and dark sweet fruit. This is a stunning scent, exotic and mysterious, a mix of dark sexy smoky sweetness contrasting with heady, light blooms and soft coconut. After a while: this doesn't change too much except that it smells more and more like a floral Mme Moriarty, which is good because I love MM and the flowers in here are divine. It's a little smokier now (which I love) and there's something almost like tobacco about it, but the coconut adds the nicest touch of creamy whiteness to this otherwise deep, dark fragrance, whilst tonka lends a broad sweetness to it. I swear that I can smell plum though. I have no idea where and why I smell plum (one of the fruit gums?) but I get something like that in here, which just reinforces the similarity with MM. It also reminds me of a few of the recent Chaos Theories I got this year that also had the 'Moriarty base'. This distinctive smoky-sweet-woodsy patchouli and fruit gummy resin gradually becomes the dominant scent, and the flowers fade slowly. It smells almost like there's tobacco and woods at the end. Verdict: this is a dark and totally delicious and delightful scent. It's like Mme Moriarty with night blooming flowers and coconut, a stunning blend of orchid and smoky woody patchouli with a hint of fruity-tonka sweetness, with lighter touches of osmanthus and coconut. I'm actually quite surprised at how much of the darker, less floral notes I'm getting-it's not overwhelmingly floral, in fact. All the notes are very nicely balanced, a nice mix of ethereal yet heady blooms floating over an incense-like base of patchouli and smoky resins, sweet tonka and fruit (which smells like plum on me) and creamy coconut meat. This is so good! A beautiful, feminine fragrance with a shadowy yet confident streak to it, it's sophisticated and mysterious. I'm so glad I have a bottle-I knew it would be good, but I had no idea it would be this fabulous. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Oh yes. I'm definitely keeping the bottle, may get more one day. If you like this, try: Mme Moriarty, Queen Mab, Black Moon, Eshe, Shadow Witch Orchid

In the imp: pretty honeyed flowers and a hint of sugar cane juice. Wet on skin: beautiful honeyed floral nectar! Dry: this is so beautiful! The honey is the most prominent note, and it’s a gorgeous liquid honey which is sweet and soft and much paler than the usual ‘golden-toned’ honeys. The sugar cane also helps to sweeten the scent more, and it smells just like juice from the cane, warmly sweet but not cloying-sugar cane is a ‘fresh’ sugar scent. Underneath are the gorgeous floral notes of hibiscus and osmanthus, but for once, the osmanthus isn’t dominating like it sometimes does…indeed, the osmanthus here is like the one from Queen Mab. There’s something about this which reminds me of Hungry Ghost Moon, probably the ti and sugar cane (I think the ti is causing a slight herbal-green scent here?), in fact, this smells like a cousin of Honey Moon, Gennivre and HGM. After a while: the osmanthus here is unusually subtle! It doesn’t show off like it does in Brides of Dracula and Kindly Moon, instead it stays hidden behind the ti leaves (which smell cool and freshly green, almost like a cross between moss, cucumber and aloe), the honey and sugar are still the main notes of this scent. I love the gentle honey and sugar-juice scent here, with a hint of crisp hibiscus coming through. This is sweet and delicate, dewy and fresh, honey and sugar with a watery coolness. It stays as a delightful light sugary honey fragrance, and warms up a touch. It really does remind me of the drydown of Gennivre now, but with a softer, less sharp honey note. The sugar cane note is really beautiful in here right now. Verdict: it seems the recent bunch of Japanese scents are working very well on me-first Bakeneko, then Lantern Ghost, now this. I don’t get soap or designer perfume at all from here, I don’t even get too much floweriness-just the most gorgeous scent of honey drizzled over and sugared flowers, with a touch of cool greenness. I adore this new ‘white honey’ note that Beth is using, it is sweet and soft, a gentle honey which isn’t as sharp as the one in O, for example, it is almost like a honey nectar. This sweetness is enhanced beautifully by the sugar cane, a wonderfully fresh and juicy sugar note which isn’t overwhelming or too foody. These are the dominant notes, sweet fresh honey and sugar cane juice, with a soft floral undertone (with surprisingly subtle osmanthus-this note usually is very ‘loud’ on me) and a hint of cool, green ti leaf adding a little more freshness. This honey scent is elegant, light, and beautiful-this is definitely one I’m getting a bottle of for the warmer months. One of my new favourite honey scents. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Yes! This is a wonderful summer scent, I think. If you like this, try: Lantern Ghost of Oiwa, Hungry Ghost Moon, Kindly Moon, Gennivre, Brides of Dracula

In the imp: lilac cologne. It smells like a herbal (bay rum) cologne with lilac. Wet on skin: fresh green manly perfume! In fact, this reminds me of Propaganda Bath's Orion (not to be confused with the Possets blend of the same name, which smells totally different). Dry on skin: green, slightly soapy-herbal, manly aftershave with a background of leather, crisp linen, dry palm and ship's wood, and the barest hint of lilac. The sad thing is that the aftershave scent also reminds me of washing up liquid. But I don't get coconut. I wanted the coconut meat note to show itself-I love that creamy coconut meat note, but I get hardly any. Just a green, slightly soapy scent of men's perfume/shaving gel and leather and the linen of sailor's uniforms. Having said that, I swear I now smell coconut wafting off my wrist but when I smell my wrist directly, there's no coconut. After a while: ah, now I smell coconut near my skin! And it's soft, creamy coconut, more like coconut milk and doesn't have the dry 'coconut shreds' scent of usual coconut notes-but it is very faint, and it mingles with the orris which has now just surfaced and added a dusting of pale powder to the scent. The bay rum cologne and leather and woods are still dominant notes here though, it still smells of clean soapy aftershave. After 2-3 hours the orris is really strong and has softened the bay rum quite a bit, this light, delicate and dusty note contrasting nicely with a deep smoky leather note. I still smell aftershave but now I also smell more oak wood. This is a scent that would be very nice on a man. Verdict: this smells like a really fit guy who's washing dishes. He wears clean clothes and a leather jacket, his hair with the faint scent of coconut oil, he wears bay rum aftershave and the scent of washing up liquid lingers clings to his fingers. Ah yes, the dream guy who actually cleans up after himself, the good house-husband, always nicely dressed and always clean and neat and romantic. Only in dreams though, it seems, as none of the boys round my uni smell like this or do the washing up. But back to the scent. This is very much a masculine scent, but I also find it oddly soapy. Bay rum may be the culprit-sometimes it's nice, and at other times it is soapy. And indeed, the bay rum here smells like a cross between aftershave and washing up liquid. The coconut meat is not as strong as I hoped, the leather is nice when it does show up, but the scent becomes a nice dusty orris-oak-coconut-linen scent at drydown, which is much nicer, softer and less masculine than before. it's a lot more wearable than Jolly Roger was on me, but it's not my kind of scent either. I prefer Black Pearl which is similar, but much nicer on my skin. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Not really. If you like this, try: Jolly Roger, Black Pearl, Baron Samedi, Blood Pearl, Obatala, Villain

The Great Red Dragon and the Woman Clothed With the Sun In the imp: a bitter floral scent full of red dragon's blood and some odd wet green notes. Wet on skin: I now smell more woods coming out, but it's mainly dragon's blood and greenish flower notes like muguet and sweet pea. I have no idea why this smells so green and wet. Dry on skin: this is such an unusual fragrance, I can't make head or tail of it. It's a strange greenish floral scent, it smells like dewy leaves and grasses for some reason I can't understand, but with the sharp clarity of dragon's blood running through it, and surprisingly strong notes of lily of the valley, sweet pea and orchid. It brings to mind a hothouse, wet and steamy leaves and vines, with flowers growing. It actually smells like a more complex and interesting version of Dragon's Eye. I also get the soft warmth of sandalwood, and maybe a hint of copal too…even a hint of something nutty which must be the hazel. I don't get any vanilla or amber yet, just a deep green scent with soft wet flowers and piercing red dragon's blood contrasting with a dry, nutty, woodsy base and a faint glow of copal. After a while: dragon's blood is taking over! That's all I can smell now, green wet woods, waxy floral notes, and lots of dragon's blood. Where's the sandalwood? Or the vanilla, or amber, or hazel, or the copal…where have they fled? I was hoping for more of the 'woman cloaked in the sun' and less of the 'great red dragon' which seems to be the dominant theme now. Dragon's blood and greenish flowers. It also reminds me of something I've smelt at a new age shop. However, the flowers (I blame the muguet, probably) are turning to soap now. And then, it's soapy flowers. Soapy sweet peas and lilies of the valley on the almost soapy sharp scent of dragon's blood. It's now almost indentical to Dragon's Eye but much soapier. The vanilla, amber and all the other sweet rich notes never do show up even at drydown, where the scent becomes all soapy dragon's blood and lily/sweet pea, and that's it. Verdict: I was hoping, from the notes, that this would be a darker, more complex version of Mouse's Long and Sad Tale, but it was nothing like that. In fact, I was a little bit taken aback by the scent's greenness and the strength of the daemonorops (dragon's blood) which seems to take over the scent. I didn't mind the lush wet green scent I got from this scent but I was very disappointed by the way this quickly turned to a sharp soapy floral. The hints of sandalwood, copal and hazel that pop up are too fleeting, and the vanilla and amber never show up, which is such a shame. For all it's complexity and myriad notes, it could have gone either way, and it decided to turn very bad on me, with the waxy florals amping up and the scent becoming an unpleasant soapy screeching floral until the end. I'm quite sad that this was such a letdown, it seemed so promising…but my skin chemistry wouldn't let that be. (I suppose I could call this the Dragon's Long and Sad Scent, because of the way it disagreed with me.) Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? No.This is a confusing scent, and I don't like the soapiness. If you like this, try: Dragon's Eye, The Emperor, Silk Road, Aeval, Juliet, Wilhelmina Murray

The Arrival at the Sabbath and Homage to the Devil In the imp: smoky caramel, just like Red Lantern, Gluttony, Creepy etc. Wet on skin: oh wow, now I get an almost boozy vanilla extract appearing, as well as rich sandalwood and flowery notes. Dry on skin: wow! This is gorgeous! It's foody caramel, that's for sure, but it's more than that. the beautiful Bourbon vanilla adds a rich roundness to the caramel-it is reminiscent of vanilla extract, the iris adds a creamy floral touch, there's a trace of spicy carnation and a delightful sandalwood base. I can just about make out the deep patchouli darkening the scent but for now it's a wonderful rich caramel-vanilla with a hints of flowers and sandalwood. It's like Underpants but with caramelised brown sugar on top. After a while: the iris gains a fruity aspect, as it has done in some other scents, which swells and adds even more richness and complexity to the caramel. The effect is almost like that of caramelised plums, apricots or cherries, oddly enough, infused with vanilla beans and with a slight splash of dark rum. It now reminds me slightly of this year's Sugar Skull. The sandalwood and patchouli add a delicious warmth and prevents the scent from becoming too foody. But caramelised brown sugar is still the dominant note here. The iris fades away, and scent does like most of Beth's caramel scents and dries down to pure treacle crossed with maple syrup and with a sprinkling of muscovado sugar, only this time with added vanilla beans and a hint of sandalwood. The covering of caramel is so thick though, that this wood can only just be smelt. After a few hours, the patchouli gives a smoky effect to the caramel, it smells more like boozy treacle now, or maple syrup, with just a scraping of sandalwood. It's still nearly identical to Sugar Skull, especially at this stage. Verdict: this is the unholy lovechild of Underpants and Sugar Skull. If Sugar Cookie was the 'devil's bake sale', this is the devil's sweet shop. Evil caramel, evil in the best way. It's very, very caramelised, indeed, but there are lovely notes of iris, vanilla, patchouli and sandalwood that pass by and take it in turns to support the sticky cooked sugar scent. It lacks the 'nutty smoke' scent I get from a lot of BPAL's caramelised foodies, this is a purer caramel scent, smeared over sandalwood and patchouli-and there's nothing buttery about it either on me, it's melted, browned sugar. it's sophisticated caramel, deep and dark and delicious, with a fantastic sandalwood-patchouli base and moments when the Bourbon vanilla really shines. I'm not sure if I need a bottle just yet because I have enough caramel scents for now-I like them a great deal but at times they can be too heavy for me-but I'm certainly using the imp up. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Oh yes. I might get a bottle once I finish my imp. A great scent for the colder months. If you like this, try: Red Lantern, Sugar Skull, Gluttony, Cockaigne, Creepy, Monster Bait Underpants (if you can get it!)

In the imp: a dark, lemony, resinous incense with a hint of booze. Wet on skin: lemony patchouli! This is an intriguing mix of dark patchouli-resin and bright citrus. Dry: mmm, wow, this is really nice. The lemon and tangerine are the notes that hit me first, and they are warmed and spiced by the saffron, but underneath those sparkling spicy fruity tangy notes is a wonderful dark layer of patchouli and myrrh and incense. This is almost reminiscent of the Masque but with lemon replacing the spicy rosy honey, and the patchouli-myrrh scent also reminds me of Schwarzer Mond. I also smell booze here, probably from the brandy, but this note seems to work in here. The scent is a mix of golden sunny citrus and a shadow of smoky patch and resins. I don’t get much musk yet, but I think the geranium is mingling nicely with both the deep and the tangy layers of the scent. After a while: wine? Why do I smell wine here? I suppose that’s the brandy coming out a little more…the scent is now a boozy lemony geranium (I adore bourbon geranium) on a base of earthy patchouli and myrrh. It smells a lot more fruity now as well, like there’s a ripe fruit note to this, almost reminiscent of the ‘fruity’ scent I got in Malkuth, actually. This eventually becomes a resinous earthy-dirty patchouli with a feel of ‘squashed ripe fermenting fruit’ to it, but the patch in this scent is very strong! I love the myrrh note as well, it’s really showing up at this point and it smells rich and incense-like. The drydown after a few hours is strong rich patchouli surrounded by myrrh and a gorgeous skin musk with fruity nuances reminiscent of plums or grapes, this combination of notes is the sort of drydown that is distinctive to BPAL, I’ve smelt it in a few other fragrances, and it always strikes me as being quite an autumnal scent. Verdict: this is a fascinating, rich and earthy-resinous fragrance, lots of patchouli, deep and complex with a citrus bite to it. At first it is very citrus-tangy, but the dark and heavy patchouli and myrrh really contrasts nicely with the sparkling fruity top notes. eventually the lemon fades, being replaced by a boozy wine like scent with a patchouli base and with geranium on top, before moving into a gorgeous boozy-fruity patchouli-resin incense with a hint of delightful musk appearing at the end. This is a very interesting scent, with lots of complexity and contrasts, and it has a very decadent, slightly sinful feel to it. I really like it a great deal, especially the incense and that deep patchouli, reminiscent of the patch in Schwarzer Mond…not sure if I need a bottle but I have a feeling this will be a great autumn fragrance. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Certainly the imp, not sure if I need a bottle but I like this. If you like this, try: Polyhymnia, Death of Sardapanal, Malkuth, The Masque, Omen, Voodoo, Schwarzer Mond (if you can find it)