PurringPulsar

Les Bijoux In the imp: gorgeous honeyed apples and peaches! Wet on skin: mmm, that's good. Honeyed apples and peaches. Dry on skin: the honey takes on a slightly sharper scent but it's still lovely. The apple note in here is fantastic-so sweet, so ripe, so crisp. It's not as much a tart apple like the Hesperides, more like a sweet apple like in Desire. The peach note sweetens it even more. I can't smell the orange blossom or resins but I think I can just make out the rose and I think the musk simply binds it all together for now. After a while: holy crap, not only does this scent chuck out a lot of throw, it's also become even more wonderful. The skin musk has surfaced and softened the fruits even more, taking the rose with it, all of it covered with a sweeter honey topping. This smells delicious! Over time this scent just gets smoother and more delicious with the skin musk coming out even more. Musk with a hint of rose all over the apple and honey. I don't smell frankincense but I do think the myrrh is grounding the scent and adding depth and giving this scent a slight resemblance to Sed Non, with the honeyed skin musk. The drydown is honeyed rosy skin musk with a little apple. This is what I was hoping Eve and Jezebel smelt like on me. Verdict: from start to finish, this blew me away. First it's ripe, sweet crunchy apple and juicy peach drizzled with golden honey, and then a wonderful blush of rosy musk lifts the honeyed apple to new heights. The throw was impressive and the scent was delicious. This beautiful new scent would make a nice threesome with Sed Non and Desire, as this is along similar lines…similar to Sed thanks to it's honeyed skin musk, and Desire thanks to the sweet apple. In fact, this is the light flip-side to Desire and Sed, but it's also so different to these. Another example of one of those ever-so-unique BPAL scents. This is my new favourite of the apple scents, and another one I need a bottle of. Beth has totally outdone herself for the August update. Emoticon rating: If you like this, try: Desire, Sed Non Satiata, Eve, Jezebel, Verdandi

Cockaigne In the imp: whoa, foody! This is a mix of buttery, sugary and spicy notes which gives the impression of gingerbread cake batter. Mmm. Wet on skin: the wine comes out of the spicy cake batter, as does the honey… Dry on skin: holy crap. Fuck, yeah, this is good. Ohh Beth, thank you so much. I know, I'm gushing incomprehensibly…simply because this smells like home-made mince pies! Yes! I've been looking for a BPAL that captures the smell of mince pies-that rich, spicy, fruity, boozy filling surrounded by buttery pastry, and this is it. Mince pies and mulled wine. The smell of blissful Christmas memories. Ohhh. MINCE PIES! After a while: this one has impressive throw-the scent that is being wafted is like treacle and caramel with a little bit of cooked honey and spice. But the scent close to my wrist is still mince pies and mulled wine, thank goodness. I also smell a hint of brown sugar, apple crumble, and gingerbread. This does smell very similar to Gluttony (though not as rich) and Gingerbread Poppet at times, but with that wine note adding a welcoming fruity-boozy feel to it, and there's honey as well as sugar. This stays consistent on me although the treacle/maple syrup scent I get from it does increase. The wine note stops the sugary/buttery notes from smelling burnt, actually. The drydown isn't as gorgeous as the mince pie phase but it's very pretty…smells like maple syrup, roast chestnuts, a hint of peppery smoke and caramelised brown sugar. It reminds me of Hearth 05 now. I never got milk in here at all. Verdict: this is a dessert lover's dream come true…this smells like some of my favourite winter desserts all in one. Mince pies, mulled wine, apple crumble, gingerbread, Christmas cake/pudding…you name it, I smell it here. This is a rich, sugary, toasted, foody and spicy scent with a splash of wine. The milk is hardly there and the honey mixes into the sugary mayhem nicely-but the best thing about the scent is that it smells like mince pies on me! And I've been on the lookout for a mince pie scent-this is the one. And there's some mulled wine with it too. This smells like the best Christmas memories in a bottle. And it's GC! The drydown is a dizzy mix of maple syrup and caramel washed down with booze and with a little hint of peppered smoke. I will need to stock up on this for the winter months, this is the perfect festive foody scent! Emoticon rating: If you like this, try: Gluttony, Sugar Skull, Hearth 05, Drink Me, Gingerbread Poppet

Lyonesse In the imp: mmm, sweet vanilla with a hint of floral. This is promising. Wet on skin: gorgeous floral-touched vanilla musk with a hint of green. Dry on skin: this is stunning. Utterly beautiful but also understated. The vanilla and soft musk are the stars of the scent, and they are touched by slight hints of salty ambergris and sea moss, a small amount of floral lily, and even a resinous hint of elemi. This definitely has a feel of the sea, a saltiness, a green 'island' scent, a scent of the beach, but it's contrasted by that wonderful, comforting vanilla-musk. After a while: this smoothes out even more and improves. It was good before but it's even more wonderful now. The salty scent, which was a little bit strange, has toned down and now it's all about the vanilla, musk, lily, a little bit of powdery orris and sandalwood, and just a touch of amber. It's such a beautiful scent and though it is understated-it does have throw. Surprising wafts of this sweet, gentle scent were smelt far from my wrist. There are times when the ambergris-moss scent does strengthen a tad when smelt close to the wrist. I sometimes get a scent of 'beach skin' with the scent of sand and sea sticking to it (but without suntan lotion) from this. But then I smell that wonderful ethereal vanilla musk in a cloud above the skin. Verdict: another magnificent vanilla-musk scent, those two notes really are soul mates, the perfect match. This is the olfactory version of nuzzling your face in a mass of downy feathers or fur…it is so soft, so fluffy, so comforting, a real cloud of delicate fragrance. This is what I hoped Et Lux Fuit would smell like on me…it's a truly luminous, shimmering fragrance. The beautiful vanilla-musk is supported by notes like sandalwood, lily, orris, and the ambergris and sea moss add a salted, 'beachy' feel to the scent which is very nice. It's so unique as well, there's nothing like it in the BPAL catalogue that I know of. I like the way it seems discreet but wafts nicely. This is going to become a BPAL classic, I'm sure of it. I need a bottle now. Emoticon rating: If you like this, try: Morocco, Antique Lace, Et Lux Fuit, Regan

Antonino, the Carny Talker In the imp: lemon verbena with a hint of coconut and lavender. Wet on skin: lemon verbena and lavender with something sweet at the base. It's very similar to Carnaval Diabolique. Dry on skin: this is a more masculine version of CD, I think, and without the candy sweetness. It has a greener lemon note to it, with the darkness of vetiver smouldering underneath. I get a tiny, tiny amount of plum and a hint of white musk, and that same toasted coconut note I got in CD. This is very nice so far but lemon verbena does go oily or soapy at times-let's hope it doesn't in here. After a while: the verbena does develop a slightly odd oily scent but it's not too bad here-underneath I get a lot more plum now, sweet and almost creamy-fruity, with the musk and coconut. I get a very slight nod to King of Spades but thanks to the verbena and the lack of green and berries the scent is quite different. The coconut adds a sweet, toasted feel to it all, the vetiver is delightfully subtle but it's definitely there, it's slightly lemony aspect working in tandem with verbena. Eventually the scent is a strange lemony vetiver verbena scent which is a little metallic on me-there are hints of sweet coconut and plum but they somehow seem to clash with the vetiver. The good thing with this vetiver is that it doesn't smell like the really strong, overpowering stuff. At the end, this smells like very watered down lemony vetiver-it's ok, but it's not something I'm crazy about. But it does improve a tiny bit with the return of coconut just before it disappears. Verdict: this started out very nicely, like a masculine Carnaval Diabolique, with a similar coconut-lemon thing going on, backed up by plum and musk and vetiver. I wasn't so keen on the drydown though-the notes that worked so well together before seemed to clash, and the vetiver, despite it being of the subtler variety, seems to take over, adding an almost metallic scent to it all, before it remains the only note of this scent that stands out. A shame really because this had a lot of potential to start with. I really prefer CD, which is very similar, but more complex. Not sure if I'll keep it-it's nice but I'm not sure if it's a real keeper. Having said that, this scent does 'round off' this series of CD thanks to it's resemblance to the namesake blend-it's like the series has gone full circle. Emoticon rating: If you like this, try: Carnaval Diabolique

Theodosius, the Legerdemain In the imp: yup, it's like Dorian, but with more bergamot and tea, and less vanilla. Wet on skin: mmm, like a more citrussy Dorian! Dry on skin: if Dorian was just plain vanilla tea, then Theodosius is earl grey vanilla tea, even more so than D. The bergamot and stronger tea scent adds a tangy citrus scent to it all-this is a lot more cologne like than D-whilst the vanilla and musk tone the scent down. For now it's stronger on the tea than on the vanilla-musk, and this earl grey scent reminds me of Severin without leather. After a while: there's a time when this scent goes through an odd grey and dusty phase, which may be due to oak moss (possibly in the fougere) reacting with black tea? It does pass though and though the scent does retain a slight feel of dust and smoke, it's quite pleasant. I find it quite comforting and familiar, but can't say why. And the vanilla musk has got stronger now. This is a more grown up Dorian now, with less citrus, and less creamy musk. Ah, now I've realised what the dusty smell reminds me of now…paper and old books! Yes! I love that bookish smell. And it's so nice when teamed up with tea and vanilla-musk. the throw this has is amazing-I keep getting a delicious creamy-powdery-vanilla scent all around me. Verdict: I'm a huge fan of Dorian, so it's no surprise that I love this, which is very similar, but different enough to set it apart from D and also to warrant a bottle purchase. At first, it seems much more of an earl grey scent with added creamy vanilla, much more citrus than D. But this fades and the scent develops a note which is unusual and unexpected…it may be the fougere, I'm not sure, but it smells like dusty old books on me, which is a good thing. So this smells like a sexy librarian sipping tea on my skin. Oh yeah. It also smells quite smoky, mysterious, and classy. This scent isn't too masculine either-like Dorian, it's very unisex and has a vanilla-musk which is to die for. Another one to get a bottle of. Emoticon rating: If you like this, try: Dorian (of course), Severin

Port Royal In the imp: a gorgeously spicy (ginger?) and bracing take on the 'sea air' smell. I smell sandalwood and something like lavender in here. This smells promising. Wet on skin: the imp was very leaky with only a drop left, so I applied what was left of the poor imp on me…mmm, spicy gingery-peppery rum and wood! Dry on skin: this is very nice, so far. There's a note underneath reminiscent of the soapy aquatic from Jolly Roger that I wasn't keen on, but the spices, rum and woods are keeping it back for now. I love the spicy mixture I'm getting here-is this the 'prostitute's perfume'? If so, it's gorgeous. It actually reminds me of the gingery-boozy-smoky-musk scent I got from Devil's Night! Only this time with a little more wood, something peppery, and a hint of sea spray, adding it's salty freshness. After a while: yup, there's the aquatic from Jolly Roger alright, it does turn a tad laundry like on my skin but it's not too bad here. The spices are keeping it in check. There's an almost fruity-floral feel to the scent here at this point. I like this-it smells clean yet warm as well. The soapy scent I feared would take over never really does, which is a good thing. As the smell fades away like a ship leaving port, fading into floral scented sea mist, I smell that peppery spice in it's wake-and I swear I can detect the slightest hint of gunpowder… Verdict: this, to me, is a more wearable version of Jolly Roger. It's more unisex, and has the most wonderful spicy woody note ever. Over the slightly soapy but thankfully more restrained aquatic notes of sea spray and sea mist is a spiced rum, smoke, wood and perfume scent which reminds me of the smoky booze from Devil's Night, that same gingery scent but with additional spices and even a little gunpowder. The woods are deliciously soft and fragrant-not manly woods at all, and the aquatics here do sometimes turn pleasantly floral, yet also salty and bracing. I even smell a little bit of light musk in there. It's a delightful scent in all-I'm not sure if I'll get a bottle as sometimes the aquatic note does smell a little bit too much like washed clothes for me, and I do prefer Anne Bonny and Black Pearl as far as pirate scents go. But it's a scent I might consider getting more of, just for that wonderful spicy woodsy scent and, of course, it's piratical associations. Arr! Emoticon rating: If you like this, try: Jolly Roger, Grog

Uruk In the imp: almonds! Lots of almonds! Wet on skin: almonds remain but start to fade, with spices and flowers coming through. Dry on skin: this is gorgeous! After the almonds have faded, I'm left with a warm, spicy-floral-incense-fruity-green sort of scent, it's so well blended that I can't really pick out anything. I can smell the greenish fig leaf, the warmth of saffron and cinnamon, a little patchouli or incense, with a hint of bergamot and even a floral-aquatic touch from the waterlilies, possibly also the jasmine-but the jasmine is very muted here. It's light but exotic and does have a slight perfumey-ness that really works here. After a while: eventually the scent develops more of it's fragrant greenness, thanks to the fig leaf and possibly the floral notes, but the spicy scent still remains. There's a nice contrast of dry sunny spices with lush greenery here. This is lovely stuff. It's almost like a posh perfume at times, but that's no bad thing here. It also reminds me of another scent-either BPAL or not, that I've smelt before but can't remember. It does remind me very slightly of Mantis at times though, oddly. Maybe there's a musk note lurking here. Verdict: I think this may be a new favourite of mine when it comes to Mesopotamian scents. Hanging Gardens is lovely once the evil gardenia goes-ditto with Sacred Whore, and I love my imp of Baghdad but my bottle smells odd (maybe it needs aging?), but this one has no flaws on me at all! An almond introduction leads to a very complex but masterfully blended mix of flowers, greenery, spices and incense that does resemble very good quality perfume. It's both warm, dry and deliciously spicy but also moist and full of almost tropical flora and greens, with the incense and patchouli grounding it all. It's so well blended that all the notes mix together and there's nothing that clashes here. Exotic and ancient yet it also smells very upscale, very chic. I should have just gone and bought a bottle straight up-and I will! Emoticon rating: If you like this, try: Salome, Bastet, Eden, Mantis

Pulcinella and Teresina In the imp: pickled wood! No, really. It's not bad though-smells like cedar and labdanum when I smell it again. Wet on skin: the woody notes come out even more now, as does the red rose. Dry on skin: what a fascinating scent. The impression I get is of polished wood. But the polish used is a fragrant, amber like resin, the labdanum. This smells like a wooden cedar box which is used to hold incense and resins, it's both a very exotic scent reminiscent of Middle Eastern or Indian amber-resin perfumes or loose incense, and also reminds me of church incense. Dark, alluring and intense. After a while: what does this remind me of? I can't think but this really does remind me of something I've smelt before. I'm pretty sure it was a type of loose incense, all sticky and resinous and aromatic, or the smell of a shop that sells trinkets from around the world, or maybe it was something I smelt in Morocco or Tunisia? Either way, this scent is amazing, very evocative, full of mystery…it's a woody labdanum scent but I swear I get things like frankincense, amber, myrrh, sandalwood and spices popping up here and there. I'm also reminded of Covent Garden, but that could simply be due to the Punch and Judy associations (I remember seeing the puppets there as a child) but maybe also because it reminds me of something from the incense stall there, or a perfume I smelt there once? The drydown after a few hours smells very much like a cross between an ancient cedar chest, church incense (it's very reminiscent of myrrh) and the darkest, deepest amber attar, with a scattering of dry rose petals. Verdict: imagine puppets made from the most fragrant woods, painted with vivid colours, and polished with a varnish made from aromatic resins. That is what I get here-a deep, rich, powerful and also very exotic fragrance. It's intense and mysterious and bewitching, filled with memories of times long gone and distant places. The woods are perfect-they don't smell too masculine, the rose is lovely but not too showy, and the labdanum is amazing-it smells like aged amber, viscous and dark, incredibly resinous with a feel of incense to it. This scent is again like nothing I've smelt from BPAL and another example of a CD scent that has wowed me. Another one to get in bottle form-I like what Zenvodunista suggested about layering this with Melisande, I think pairing the puppets with their mistress seems like a very good idea… Emoticon rating: If you like this, try: Thanatos, Rose Cross, Magdalene, All Saints

Melisande, the Puppet Mistress In the imp: jasmine! Lots and lots of jasmine. Wet on skin: a sharp, greenish jasmine scent. This has the potential to go either way on me. Dry on skin: heady jasmine tempered by violet. Actually, the sharp, almost bitter scent may be due to mimosa, but it does remind me of the greener jasmine scents, like Ligeia and Yesod. There's a load of jasmine that packs a punch, with hints of bittersweet mimosa and powdery violet. I can't smell the musk but the vanilla does sweeten the scent up a great deal. After a while: whoa, this has softened up a great deal. No longer the sharp, bitter jasmine I got before, the mimosa has lost it's edge and has become the soft scent I'm more familiar with, and has teamed up with violet to smooth down the scent and to give it a delightful powdery aspect. The jasmine is now cocooned by these delicate flowers, and the vanilla still adds it's sweetness to the scent. No musk yet, but I think I can detect it's depth under the flowers, adding a rich and intense base to the soft powderiness. I really like this now. The jasmine here now reminds me of Luna or Twilight, but smoother...and the scent that wafts far from the skin is the most delightful vanilla-violet-sugar! This is like an even better version of Le Serpent Qui Danse. Verdict: this started out very heady and quite bitter and I thought 'oh no, this will be like Ligeia, a jasmine that didn't work on me'. Thankfully, this changes for the better. The mimosa and violet temper the jasmine, stopping it from becoming too aggressive, and adding a delicate touch of powder to the scent, whilst musk provides depth. The vanilla makes this even lovelier, especially concerning the throw, which reminds me of Le Serpent Qui Dance and Euphrosyne. The colour this evokes is a very pale twilight purple, a light pastel violet colour. This is another CD I will eventually have to get a bottle of, it's dusky and gorgeous and ever so feminine. Emoticon rating: If you like this, try: Le Serpent qui Danse, Euphrosyne, Bearded Lady, Perfumed Garden

Three Brides In the bottle: a very soft, sweet amber-vanilla-sugared rose with orange/mandarin. Like the Haunted Palace without the musk. Beautiful. Wet on skin: a sweet, gorgeous mixture of vanilla, amber, benzoin, orchid, tonka, and a hint of rose. Dry on skin: now I can smell carnation, lily and a bit more rose! This is a beautiful, sublime scent-a mix of sweet notes of amber, tonka, vanilla etc, delicate flowers, a little sandalwood and a hint of tart, dry rose and mandarin. It's a very subtle scent at first but there's a lot of complexity here, it's well mixed though so everything works well together. It's also not heavy, it's light and sugared, but also luxurious, quite 'expensive' as a scent, but in the best way possible. After a while: eventually this smoothes out even more-the tart rose does back down a bit without leaving the scent, and the florals retreat, and the resinous, exotic, oriental notes come out to play. The scent becomes a delicious mix of amber, tonka, sandalwood and vanilla, with a little carnation, and the other notes just in the background. It is understated in the way that it teases with little wafts of scent as opposed to full on throw, but so beautiful. There's a feel of musk or labdanum at the base, not sure where that's from, but I like it…the scent seems to move slowly from amber to spiced sandalwood to floral vanilla every now and then, morphing gracefully. The drydown may be faint, but it is so delightful-golden Egyptian amber lingering on the skin. This is a lovely scent to get to know. Verdict: I'm very glad I purchased a bottle of this wonderful scent-it's another addition to my 'rose-based floral-resin-sweet-oriental' scents and it is so beautiful. It's not as intense as the Haunted Palace or Love in the Asylum, in fact, it's quite different to these and I can't really compare because the combination of notes here makes for a very unique fragrance. All the notes blend together so well and become one, changing slowly and softly, each facet of the scent showing itself for a while before letting another take it's place. I also love the amber base of this scent that really shows itself at the end. This scent is sometimes too subtle at times but when wearing this, I often caught a waft of this beautiful ambery scent and realised that it was the seemingly understated Three Brides! Sophisticated, feminine, exotic and sensual, this is a scent that really is a work of art and I bet it will age magnificently. Wow. Emoticon rating: If you like this, try: Haunted Palace

F5 In the bottle: very similar to Embalming Fluid, a fresh citrus tea, but with salty sea spray. With it's salty lime, it smells almost like a margarita (not a mojito yet, as I don't get the mint). Wet on skin: it now smells like a fresh cologne type scent. Very upscale, very unisex. Dry on skin: not bad! This is, as the description says, refreshing. The dominant notes are an Embalming Fluid like citrus tea with white musk, but this time it's the sharper smell of lime instead of lemon. Whoo, that's a lot of lime and verbena-this is very citrus. And I still get the margarita feel. I do get an ozone background which is very slightly reminiscent of clean laundry, but in a good way. This does have a very mainstream perfume scent to it but I don't mind that. After a while: the 'clean laundry' scent does increase over time, but I like it in here. Overall, this scent is like a fresher, tangier version of Dirty…that same 'whiter than white linen' scent with an added citrus-tea zing to it, and less of the floral sweetness of Dirty. Thanks to the verbena-tea scent, it also reminds me of Shanghai. At the end, the aloe comes out, joining the tea, musk and sea air notes. Verdict: on me, this is like Embalming Fluid meets Dirty. The bright, sharp citrus tea and white musk of EF mixed with the laundered ozone of Dirty, this is a lively and zingy fragrance that does refresh! A tangy citrus tea with a hint of salty-lime margarita and a base of washed linen, this is a unisex fragrance which has something mainstream about it. It's a very energising scent, quite sporty in feel, and very clean. I like it-it's a great scent for warm weather, but I'm not sure if I'll keep it. I have other scents similar to it that I prefer. I may keep an imp's worth but I don't think I need the bottle. Emoticon rating: If you like this, try: Embalming Fluid, Dirty, Berenice, Shanghai

The Organ Grinder In the imp: soft almond and a green, bitter nuttiness which must be the sarsaparilla-though. I've not smelt it before so that's just a guess. Wet on skin: a slight root beer-ish smell starts to surface along with the nutty scent, and I smell the tobacco smoke as well as the pine. Dry on skin: this is such an unusual scent! It's a strange mix of very nutty notes, a bit of green and evergreen, and earthy smoke. The sarsaparilla (I think) is like nothing I've encountered in BPAL, it's nutty but totally different to the almond, and also green and rooty, and almost savoury. The pine is there, adding it's sappy, deep green scent, and tobacco wafts over it all. The patchouli seems to pull everything together without being too obvious. After a while: the slightly toasted and very nutty scent still remains. It's a very odd scent on me-I'm not sure whether I like it or not. It's not as dark as before, it seems to have settled down but it's still unusual. After a while it develops a weird 'burnt butter' note-it's not blatantly buttery but it reminds me of that strangely nutty smell butter gets when it is overcooked. And then I get an undertone of slightly sour milk…which is funny, since the plant-based milk scents (almond, rice, coconut etc) hardly ever go sour on me. Verdict: this is the only CD scent I'm not so keen on. Something in here-probably the sarsaparilla-just turns very weird on my skin. It's one of the most unusual scents I've ever tried, I must say…with it's dirty, earthy, nutty and rooty scent. Hints of pine and tobacco flit through every now and then but it's the almond and sarsaparilla that reign supreme here (oddly, the almond doesn't smell soft and milky, but nutty and strangely savoury)-and it's such a unique scent. I've not encountered it in other BPALs so far. But it doesn't seem to work on my skin-something doesn't sit right with this scent, it doesn't seem to agree with my chemistry. So I'll let this decant go to a happier home. Emoticon rating: If you like this, try: Voodoo, Baron Samedi

Doc Constantine In the imp: the sexiest leathery amber ever. Rich sweet amber (it smells like Jacob's Ladder amber!!) over black leather. This smells shaggable. Wet on skin: on the skin, the woodsy notes, like fir and cedar, appear out of the leather. now the scent does remind me of Geek. Dry on skin: mmm, I like this. Very much a sexy man scent, this is the smell of deep green forest notes of fir and smoky cedar which makes me think of a smouldering bonfire, with deep leather and a hint of golden sweet amber. I think I get a hint of fresh manly light musk too. This is a much more sophisticated version of Geek, it has none of the spiced wildness of that scent, and this is much more gentlemanly. After a while: there is something reminiscent of Jacob's Ladder to this, most probably the amber. It smells very golden and sticky, different to other black amber scents but also different to most golden amber notes as well-at times it almost reminds me of frankincense. The woods and leather work wonderfully with it, and I get a gorgeous incense like vibe from this scent at times, very much like Dee. Eventually, the amber becomes the most dominant scent, with hints of leather behind it. What a gorgeous amber scent it is too-though the disadvantage is that it's quite faint on me. But it's such a moreish scent! Verdict: I was hoping that the Doc would be too masculine on me, just so that my wallet wouldn't be hit too hard. But he's won me over completely with this scent. This is a stunning men's scent which can be pulled off wonderfully by women. On me, it is sexy Jacob's Ladder. That same wonderful resinous amber with a leather undertone, and hints of cedar and fir. The amber drydown is gorgeous and I want to bury my nose in whatever skin smells like this-be it my own, or any future boyfriend. There's one problem-it fades so fast on me. I'll give it a try again since I may not had applied much oil and that's why it's faint. But this is another CD that will need to be bought as a bottle. Emoticon rating: If you like this, try: Loviatar, Jacob's Ladder, Dee, Bow and Crown

Mme Moriarty, Misfortune Teller In the bottle: mmm, fruity sweet red musk. It does remind me of what Smut smelt like in the bottle. Wet on skin: I see what others mean by the 'woody smoky' smell this has, which I'm getting now, as well as some fruit notes. Dry on skin: this is gorgeous. Oh yeah, this is good stuff. It's actually very different to the Snake Oil family, as there's a smoky scent to this, maybe it's the patchouli, which makes this very much a unisex scent-this would be just as sexy on a man as it is on me. There are, indeed, tobacco and cedar undertones to this. The red musk is different too, I think-different to Snake Oil or Smut's red musk, this reminds me of the RM in Great Cry in Egypt, actually. It's a woodsy musk, sweetened by plum and vanilla, deepened by patchouli, with a light touch of pomegranate. So good. After a while: this has such amazing throw, and the scent that wafts is that of the vanilla and plum, sweet and richly fruity. Close to the skin, the woody patchouli and musk is strongest. It smells like mystical, exotic incense mingled with the sweet smell lingering on Mme Moriarty's skin. This is a very intense scent-it just exudes confidence, to me. Over time, this does start to develop a Snake Charmer-esque plum-vanilla-musk scent which is sublime. It still keeps that gritty, earthy patchouli but it now smells sweeter and softer. Verdict: as I expected, Beth's own scent is really wonderful. It is definitely the Snake Charmer of CD, especially after an hour when the vanilla-plum-musk does become reminiscent of SC. But this is also very different to the Snake scents and Smut etc. There's an earthy, deep, smoky base to the scent-maybe the patchouli and musk, but it has nuances of cedar and tobacco to it. This gives the scent a lot of presence and oomph. It's full of confidence and strength. It's the scent of a powerful woman who doesn't take shit from anyone. Totally appropriate for Beth. It's also a dark scent, shrouded in mystery, and a scent that would suit men as well as women. This is a scent that has grown on me with a beautiful drydown, one I will want to stock up on. Another CD winner. Emoticon rating: If you like this, try: Snake Charmer and Snake Oil (of course), Smut, Lust, Scherezade, Bathsheba

Chrysanthemum Moon In the bottle: hmm, interesting. It smells like a dried flower, quite a sour-ish one too. Possibly a dry chrysanthemum, with something herbal too. Wet on skin: interesting! It smells like fresh florist flowers, but with a hint of ginger…no musk yet but I think I get opium too. Dry on skin: what an intriguing fragrance. The dominant fragrance is that of the chrysanthemums, a greenish, slightly sharp, and also slightly dry scent, it's like a bouquet of dusty and dry flowers with fresh ones. The ginger spices it up nicely (and this red ginger seems to work on me-no burnt rubber!) and the opium adds it's hazy, dry, smoky ambience to the scent but doesn't dominate. I don't smell musk yet, but there is a scent to this that reminds me of bundles of dried herbs…the smell of old fashioned herbal remedies, with a little hint of soap, but it's not nasty soap. After a while: eventually the sharp, semi-herbal floral bouquet smoothes out a bit and becomes soft and almost creamy-probably due to the musk, and the spicy, fresh ginger aspect of the scent increases too. the scent is now exotic in feel, but also faded and nostalgic, like a memory from the past. It also has a lot of throw. There's something in here that smells like camomile and honey, oddly enough. The opium in here smells almost like it's been absorbed in cloth, there's a feel of fabric to this scent. There are times when the scent takes on a sourness which I'm not crazy about-sometimes it's quite nice, like honey, but at other times it's a little too sour for me. There's a very 'antique' feel to this scent on me. Verdict: this is a very interesting scent. It is like nothing else I've smelt from BPAL, another Lunacy which competes with HGM as the 'most unique BPAL out there'. It's a strange, almost contrasting mix of dry flowers and herbs and a bunch of fresh, sharp chrysanthemums with the scent of tent fabric which has absorbed opium smoke for a long time, a little bit of ginger, and a creamy musk undertone. The scent also has hints of honey, which is totally unexpected. It's a fascinating fragrance, but there are some parts of the scent I'm not sure about-there are times when it develops a sour note which I can't identify, but I'm not keen on it. there are also times when it, I'm afraid, reminds me of old fashioned pot pourri. I wish I'd got more musk from this scent. I'm torn on what to do with this-I don't like it enough to keep a whole bottle-maybe an imp-but the label is amazing! Emoticon rating: If you like this, try: there's nothing like this elsewhere in BPAL afaik...so unique!

Gennivre, L'Artiste du Diable In the imp: sharp lemony green tea with a hint of mint. Wet on skin: the bittersweet tang of orange blossom comes out and joins the lemongrass tea. The mint isn't that strong but I can feel it cooling my skin. Dry on skin: now I smell the honey, and the scent has sweetened nicely. This is such a lovely scent. it's predominantly tangy tea with just the right amount of lemongrass to add a citrus touch without taking over. Delicate orange blossoms float in the tea, with a little bit of cool mint, and delicious honeycomb. I can't smell the sugarcane yet but I think it may come out later to sweeten the scent even more. this is a light, fresh, nicely balanced scent of tart and sweet notes. After a while: the honey grows stronger over time. It's not the sweetest honey, it's actually a tart honey similar to O and Honey SN…but it's lovely. The sharper side of the honey works well with the tea note. The drydown after a few hours of wear is even lovelier-because now the sugar cane comes out! It adds a totally different sweetness along with honey, a lighter sweetness, very true to real sugar cane, and it's wonderful with the honey but despite these two sweeteners, this isn't 'cavity inducingly' sweet at all. And then the honey changes into the same honey note from Honey Moon! And I love that! Verdict: Beth, you are making me broke with CD, because I love this delightful light tea scent. Whilst this doesn't smell like Moroccan mint tea on me, this does smell like the most exotic green tea infusion ever! A delicious and refreshing tangy lemon green tea with orange blossom and honey and the subtlest mint. The honey note in here is nicely sharp, reminiscent of the honey SN and honeycomb, a pleasant addition to this light, bright tea fragrance. Then the sugarcane comes out and sweetens the scent even more, softening the tea's sharpeness, and rounds the scent out nicely. I need a bottle (or more) of this one as well-this also seems like a good scent for the warmer months but is perfectly wearable any time. this is one of my new favourite tea scents! (And at this rate, it seems like I will need an Al-a-ca-zam pack!) Emoticon rating: If you like this, try: Dorian, Hungry Ghost Moon, Shanghai, Usher

Xanthe, the Weeping Clown In the imp: sweet, sugared guava. Gorgeously fruity. Wet on skin: now a little hint of orange and warm pepper start to come through the sugary guava. Dry on skin: this is delicious! Fruity and sugary but with a hint of spicy pepper. The apple blossom goes nicely with it all, adding it's lightly floral yet slightly dry and in here, almost 'tea like' feel. The orange is faint but I can just make out it's tang, but the dominant notes are the sugar and the guava, making for a juicy, sweet fragrance. After a while: eventually the fruit notes become less sweet, and add a tart edge to the scent, balancing out the sugar…probably an effect of both sugar and guava. Whilst very sweet, the tangy scent this has makes sure the sugar doesn't make my teeth ache. It's a refreshing sweetness, and a lot gentler. This is delightful…it's like boiled fruity sweets or lollipops, and candy floss. It reminds me of the sugar note in Midnight on the Midway. The scent doesn't seem to last long, it does fade after a few hours but the scent that does remain is the most delightful spun sugar. It's definitely a pink sugar scent (but doesn't smell like the actual Pink Sugar fragrance). Verdict: thank goodness I'm not scared of clowns, because this is yet another CD fragrance I love. A gorgeous sugary fruit scent with just the right amount of fruity sharpness to stop it becoming too saccharine. This smells like I've gently dusted my wrist with powdered candy floss sugar, and also smells like fruity lollipops. A very fun and light hearted scent in all, but the pepper adds a nice warmth, adds an interesting twist to a scent that would otherwise be pure candy. It doesn't overwhelm either, and has a nice fresh feel to it that makes this an ideal blend for summer. Another one to get a bottle of! Emoticon rating: If you like this, try: Fruit Moon, Midway

The Candy Butcher In the imp: oh my. This smells like deep, rich, cocoa laden hot chocolate! Less sweet than other choc scents, this is delicious. Wet on skin: mmm, something sweeter, softer, and yes, Snow White like, comes up to greet the chocolate! Dry on skin: whoever said this smells like chocolate Snow White is spot on! This is SW's delicious creamy marshmallow note with dark chocolate. In fact, this smells just like the deepest, richest hot chocolate with sweet fluffy marshmallows melting in it! This is truly magnificent-there's nothing sour or plastic here, just chocolate marshmallows. Mmm… After a while: still smells like cocoa-dusted Snow White, that cool, creamy, sweet marshmallow contrasting with the bitter, dusty chocolate. I even get a hint of a light musk to it, similar to SW's 'lily musk', and a hint of white, sweet flowers. The milky feel of the scent gets stronger over time but never, ever, ever turns sour. That's how I like my cream. Verdict: I've been looking for the holy grail of 'pure chocolate' scents, and this is it. Bliss was too bland, Lump of Coal was ok, though Velvet was quite nice. Other brands of 'chocolate single notes' disappointed, but this is truly wonderful. Take the darkest, thickest, most cocoa-rich hot chocolate ever, and then add loads of marshmallows. This is what Candy Butcher is like on me. Chocolate marshmallows-and not just any marshmallows but Snow White marshmallows, with even a hint of white musk-a surprisingly complex scent for one where I expected just creamed chocolate. The treats offered by the Candy Butcher may look like plain chocolate at first but they have the most delicious fillings…I think I will have to give in to getting a bottle. Another CD hit. These scents will make me broke, I tell thee! I must also add that CB lasts for AGES on my skin. I could still smell it going strong the next morning! Emoticon rating: If you like this, try: Bliss, Lump of Coal, Snow White

The Phantom Calliope In the imp: spiced almond like cherry, heavy on the cardamom, which is a good thing. Wet on skin: spicy cherry! Dry on skin: wow, the cardamom in this scent kicks ass! It's so strong, so gorgeous, so warm and delicious, and it's wonderful with the cherry note which has lost it's almond like edge and now smells like sour black cherry sauce, which is lovely. I think the patchouli deepens it too. It's like spicy cherry-I think cassis (blackcurrant) may be what's adding even more tangy fruitiness to the scent, and I smell the lemony verbena here and there. After a while: the verbena has faded, and what I get is a fruity version of Alone. It has that same patchouli-cardamom scent to it, but less earthy and with the addition of warm cherry and cassis (I'm sure it's cassis, not cassia, since I don't get cinnamon on my skin, just full on yummy cardamom.) The scent is lovely but it doesn't seem to smell very strong on my skin, which is surprising for something with a patchouli base. This lightness the scent has does add to the 'ghostly' feel the scent conveys. It does fade to a lingering cardamom note-barely there, but what's left is very pleasant. Verdict: another lovely CD scent, but this one's a lot more subtle on me. It's a fruity cherry-currant with a huge hit of wonderful warm cardamom and a touch of patchouli, a delicious, warm, slightly autumnal scent. The only disappointment? It's not strong enough on me. It's very similar to Alone but not as complex, and it goes faint quite quickly. I might get a bottle just for that amazing cardamom note though…it's worth it just for that, and I think this may strengthen with age. Emoticon rating: If you like this, try: Red Phoenix, Alone

Midnight on the Midway In the imp: a very pretty sugared floral. Wet on skin: nag champa! I totally agree with other reviews because this smells like sugary nag champa now! Dry on skin: mmm, this is gorgeous. This is nag champa incense (or champaca flower?), enhanced by the addition of sugar and more floral notes…and it actually reminds me very slightly of either Midnight (how appropriate) or the Evening Star! There may be some moonflower in here, and also a hint of iris, or poppy or tuberose, since it also reminds me of Stardust at times. Maybe a tiny amount of jasmine? These are true night bloomers, dewy and luminous, with an ethereal perfume, but with a wonderful sugary scent floating over the top, reminiscent of the pink fluff of candy floss (I don't get fried donuts here like I did with Midway). After a while: this stays pretty constant, but the sugar note gets stronger, it's sweet pinkness softening the nag champa and pale floral notes. It reminds me of Midway, but more like actual sugar, and less like fried sugary dough. This is a lovely scent, and I love the hippie scent of the nag champa in here! After many hours, I start to get a note which smells like night air! And I love the smell of night air. Slightly ozoney but not soapy like most stormy ozones. This is like summer night air, warm and humid but, to me, reminiscent of being on holiday, for some reason. Verdict: this is indeed the nocturnal counterpart to Midway, and fits the description perfectly. This smells like night blooming flowers (I think there's moonflower, champaca, iris, one of the notes from Evening Star/Stardust, maybe just a hint of jasmine or tuberose), candy floss like sugar, and an incense note which smells just like nag champa, with it's hippie-ish vibe. It's a delicious combination of notes, it really does evoke the fair at night, the smell of lightly cooked sugar wafting on the breeze along with the perfumes of moist flowers on a sultry summer night. It's a beautiful, evocative fragrance and the floral notes aren't overwhelming. As well as being the opposite of Midway, it also seems like a good companion scent to the Carnaval Diabolique scent-they seem like two sides of the same coin, sharing a similar feel, but through different scents. Another one to get a bottle or two of! Emoticon rating: If you like this, try: Midway, Carnaval Diabolique, Midnight, Evening Star

Carnaval Diabolique Straight from the twisted alleys of Dis, by way of the City of Angels: opium smoke, lemon flower, heliotrope, tuberose, black musk, vanilla, coconut, apricot flower. In the imp: lemon! A very pleasant lemon but with something darker underneath. Wet on skin: mmm, lemon! This is lovely-it's not like lemon cleaner, but like lemon sherbet! It also reminds me of TAL Milk and Honey. Dry on skin: oh, I really like this. I was expecting the smell of the blossom of the lemon tree (which smells similar to orange blossom) but I get a gorgeous, almost herbal lemon that to me smells like lemon balm! A smooth, slightly herbal, slightly creamy lemon, with a hint of coconut adding even more of a creamy softness. It reminds me of lemon curd! I can't smell the other components-the musk, vanilla, flowers, but I just love the creamy sweet lemon vibe I'm getting and…I think I can smell a little bit of opium filtering through the sunny lemon scent. After a while: this sweetens and the lemon moves back gradually. The throw this has is quite amazing. It now smells like a creamy vanilla-coconut resting on a smoky opium musk with hints of the lemon still lingering. I don't smell tuberose or apricot but I think the heliotrope and vanilla have bonded to make that lovely sweetness. It's gorgeous and another opium scent that smells wonderful on me. There are times when the coconut smells like those toasted coconut sweets or coconut ice, which is appropriate since that's a common fairground treat round these parts. In fact, I do get a feel of funfair food from here, different from Midway, but definitely foody and light, but with that opium musk darkening it all. Verdict: this is a fantastic introductory/overall scent summing up the CD experience. It starts off bright and zingy, a soft creamy lemon note reminiscent of sherbet inviting you in. then, gradually, the scent starts to transform into a delicious mixture of sweet vanilla, toasted coconut, with hints of florals, all dimmed by the opium smoke and a creamy yet dark musk note. This smells like the sweets and treats you might get at the fair-coconut ice and hints of other sugared treats, some with a lemony flavour, but with that dry, deep, rich opium surrounding it all, and the musk adding a smooth base to the scent. It really is the fun, sweet smell of the carnival turned evil! And I love it. I now need a bottle or two! Emoticon rating: If you like this, try: Polyhymnia, Red Lantern

Ulalume In the imp: fruity sweet floral lilies glistening with dew and damp night air! So beautiful! Wet on skin: oh, this is pretty, I get a lovely airy aquatic mingled with sweet lilies and damp woods and leaves. Dry on skin: this is surprisingly beautiful. This really does smell like what the description says-sweet lilies (almost like flower nectar at times), dark woods which are there but don't take over, an aquatic note which brings to mind cool mist and dew, and wet autumn leaves. This is very mysterious and melancholy-and the aquatic note isn't turning to soap! I also smell soil and air in here, which just adds to the ambience. It reminds me of something I've smelt before-maybe CB's Winter of 1972? It has a similar 'misty starry night with a hint of soil' scent to it but with a stronger floral note. After a while: eventually I get a darker, almost burnt wood note at the very back of the scent, ad the floral note is slightly sweeter but also lighter, more ethereal, mingling with the misty aquatic. Still no soap, which is a very good thing. Eventually this fades to a sweet, crisp, light, ethereal floral note resting on a gentle woody base. So pretty. It reminds me very slightly of something else-Dunwich maybe? It's got that dry wood and watery lily scent to it. It develops a pleasantly papery, wispy feel at the end. Verdict: this is such a lovely scent, and a great relief to see that it works with me when I've been having a run of aquatic failures. This is the scent of a chilly autumn night after the rain, the air is cool and clear and also misty/foggy, but there are lilies, white and sweet and bewitching, and fragile. The aquatic note in here works wonderfully-it brings to mind damp and cold night air, and the woody notes add a lovely dark background along with the autumn leaves, and the moist lilies are just gorgeous. A very evocative, atmospheric scent which smells true on my skin and doesn't turn to soap at all. It's not a favourite but definitely worth keeping the imp. (btw I get no wintergreen at all. I have an old imp-with the old logo. Maybe recent batches of Ulalume are suffering from Hamadryad-style wintergreenitis?) Emoticon rating: If you like this, try: Midnight, Nuit, Dunwich

I hope this post doesn't sound grouchy, as the it's that time again, rampant hormones control my brain, and my cramps feel like someone has placed a concrete slab in my tummy, and this slab is swelling. Ugh. My maths resit is over, thank goodness...I now have about three weeks and a bit before uni starts. A part of me wants to start uni asap (one reason being STUDENT LOANS! MORE WONGA TO SPLASH ON SMELLIES!! ) another part of me wants to relish in the delicious, lazy, no-coursework, no-study days, the days of staying at home away from those awful flatmates I had last year...ah, bliss. Seems like I've been getting a taste of autumn as September arrives. Makes me wonder...am I, and my mother and RL friends, the only ones who like warm summery sunshine? Ok, so I don't mind wind and rain-provided I'm not out in it. I'm one of those people who tolerates heat much better than cold. It does make me feel less guilty to be inside, I must say. Perfect 'curl up with a cuppa and a kitty by the TV' weather. Perfect 'lazy weather', the time for lie-ins, especially now the nights are drawing in. I suppose the rainy, gusty days have a bright side when I think of it in those ways. Plus, rain is seriously needed after the desert-like conditions of summer we've had. However, I do like the autumn. I like those balmy September days that are warm and sunny but not unbearable like summer days are, just pleasant enough to go out with a t-shirt and enjoy the few days before the cold kicks in. I also love the dry autumn days, especially at sunset when the colours of the sky and the leaves match-and the nights. Oh, those cold, crisp, clear, smoky-scented autumn nights, always with the crackle of fireworks in the air in this country. Not as bitter as winter but those nights give a hint of the winter to come. I remember such a night last year, it was out at the observatory where I study, and the night was magical...cool, but not too cold, and with the most magnificent full moon illuminating the countryside all around (and yes, at the time, I was wearing Hunter Moon. It's a sign of true addiction, remembering what BPAL you wore on a random day a long time ago...). Not ideal for astronomical observations of course but just so beautiful. It's also the perfect time to crack open the autumnal BPALs-tonight, it's Devil's Night, which seems to have aged fantastically, with the smoky note much more pronounced, like a fragrant bonfire wafting over airy fresh musk...so beautiful. Hopefully the new DN will be the same...I need more!

Chaos Theory III: CCLXXXV From a decant swap with Deana In the imp: spicy perfume-this reminds me of an expensive but well crafted oriental perfume with a hint of cloves and incense. Wet on skin: still spicy perfume-this smells a lot more perfumey than most BPALs. Dry on skin: now a hint of something floral-fruity pops out. This is very well crafted-I am reminded of one of my mum's perfumes. I'm at a loss to say what's in here other than flowers, fruits, spices and woods-I think I smell rosewood here, with something that may be orange, maybe some tonka…and then I start to recognise the scent. It now smells a little bit like that Aztec god oil that begins with X, and it reminds me of Angel! Yes! This smells like a cross between Angel, Xiuhlwotsit (let's just call him Mr X for now), and one of my mum's posh musk cologne scents and possibly a hint of clove or a spice note of some kind. This scent just exudes sophistication and class… After a while: the scent softens and sweetens-there's a tonka or vanilla note adding a pleasant sweetness, but there's also that 'perfumey sharpness' peaking up through the scent. I also get a tropical floral note-maybe plumeria, since this reminds me of Mr X-I don't think there's the copal from that scent though, but there may be orange/orange blossom here. At times I wonder if there may be black amber in here as I get a dark, amber like sweetness which reminds me of other black amber scents, but is different from the lighter, golden amber notes. Eventually this dries to a perfumed, spicy wood scent, either sandalwood or rosewood with that sharp perfume over the top and a sweet undertone. I think I get some light musk here now. Verdict: when I wear this, it reminds me of being a kid and spritzing myself with my mum's perfumes for fun, pretending that I am older. Probably the most 'posh designer perfume' BPAL I've smelt, this smells very much like mum's perfume collection…it reminds me of Angel but less gourmand, with some more oriental notes in it, spices and woods. This, to me, is the feminine counterpart to the 'Chaos Theory Pour Homme' bottle I got, I'm sure they share that same, distinctive 'perfumey' note-I can't say what it is though. It's a very sophisticated, classy fragrance, mature, chic and smart, I'm not sure if it's a favourite since it does remind me too much of my mum's perfume, but I like it. I'll keep it around for now. Emoticon rating: Previously reviewed by edenssixthday.

Belle Epoque “The Pretty Era”, France’s Golden Time: an age of beauty, innovation and peace in France that lasted from the 19th Century through the first World War and gave birth to the cabaret, the cancan, and the cinema as well as the Impressionist and Art Nouveau movements. Sweet opium, Lily of the Valley, vanilla, mandarin and red sandalwood. In the imp: mandarin and lily of the valley. A combination of citrus and white, soft floral. Wet on skin: so pretty! Lily and mandarin with a hint of dry, dark opium wafting underneath. Dry on skin: lily of the valley and opium! This is a very pleasant scent. The mandarin adds a little bit of sharpness to this lily of the valley dominated scent, and I like the way the opium deepens and adds it's smoky touch to the scent without overwhelming-I think the sandalwood adds that incense like feel to it even more. I can't smell vanilla yet but I think it will come out and sweeten this scent even more. After a while: eventually this scent fades into pretty much all lily of the valley, with just hints of sandalwood, opium and vanilla. It's very faint now. the flowery scent is very pretty but I wish it had more throw and that the other notes were stronger…the lily also does almost veer into soap territory, but thankfully doesn't become totally soapy. Eventually the vanilla bonds nicely with the lily and makes it very nicely sweet. But it's still too faint for me. Verdict: this is a lovely scent but I wish it was a bit stronger. It's a pretty, feminine, romantic and graceful lily of the valley scent supported by a gentle waft of opium and sandalwood and sweetened slightly by vanilla. It's such a light scent and I like the way the opium isn't too heady like it can be. The only problem with this scent is that it's very faint on my skin, and also, despite it's notes, doesn't seem to have much depth on me-it seems to evaporate fast and doesn't stick to me very much, surprising for a scent with opium and sandalwood. It's nice but I think I'll swap it. Emoticon rating: If you like this, try: Come To Me, Languor