PurringPulsar

The Masque In the bottle: honey and…something red? I can't really tell, it's surprisingly faint in the bottle but I think I detect tobacco and incense with the honey. Wet on skin: oooh, now the deep red incense starts to come through a bit more…and I think the carnation and rose are appearing. Dry on skin: wow, this is gorgeous! A sharp honey note starts off the scent, similar to the honeycomb of Pink Phoenix and the honey note of O, and then the tart, red, warm floral scents of carnation and a hint of rose come through. Then comes a wonderful dry incense base (half-woody, half-resinous, darkly sweet-a bit reminiscent of Al Azif) with sandalwood, tobacco, strong sweet clove, and a little bit of patchouli and amber. The scent is slightly sweet but also quite sharp (in a good way), and very dry and almost velvety red in tone, with accents of gold. It has the feel of a fine red wine-though it doesn't smell like one, but does have that same feel to it. It's complex and layered, but also so well blended so all the notes work well together, it's not messy at all. It's rich, opulent and theatrical, but also dark and smoky and mysterious. After a while: it's not long before the scent smoothes out and tones down, becomes less sharp, and the incense note is now wispy and light and not as shadowy and dark as before, still with clove and carnation providing a spicy red depth, and lingering traces of honeycomb. I think I detect the amber and labdanum working together to add a hint of sweet, deep resin to the scent, and there's tobacco in the very back of the scent, a slight smokiness. It's a lot fainter now, though…I have to sniff hard to pick out all the notes. Whoops, I spoke too soon. Just when I think scent is vanishing, it still lingers nicely on my skin…a lovely, soft and well blended mix of incense, clove, honey and tobacco and a little bit of amber. it sticks close to the wrist and doesn't show off or waft much, but it's still there. The drydown after about two hours is of soft honey-incense and tobacco. But now it is so faint…such a shame. Verdict: I really liked the first stage of this, a bittersweet and complex red scent, with sharp crystalline honeycomb, rich smouldering incense, red notes of clove and carnation, deep patchouli and tobacco all working nicely together. A complex mix of notes which works on many layers that blended together very nicely to give a moving, rich, mysterious scent, evocative of red velvet fringed with gold. The disadvantage? It faded so fast! Traces of it linger, merging from honey to clove to tobacco to incense to amber and each trace of scent being different at any one time, but it doesn't waft as much as I hoped. Which is a shame because this is a lovely scent, very well crafted, very different and unusual. I just wish it was a bit stronger. I will probably keep the bottle because it's one for frequent reapplying and slathering.

Regan In the imp: gorgeous, soft, sweet vanilla with flowers. Wet on skin: oh, so pretty! There's a slight hint of honey to this, not sure where it comes from, but the scent here is vanilla, honey, and something floral and greenish. Dry on skin: this is such a delightful scent! It's the same orchid note as Magdalene-that greenish, honeyed scent, I think…with sweet, gentle vanilla and another jasmine-like floral note which I think is stephanotis. It's so pretty and feminine and soft and white, with a hint of tartness thanks to the 'honey' note. I can see why so many people like this…but to me this is a bit like O with flowers, but gentler. It's sugared and sweet but not cloying. The more I smell this, the more I love it. After a while: oh my goodness. I smell Fairy Jasmine here, with added vanilla and orchid. This is another BPAL that reminds me of Fairy Jasmine/Alkmaar…it's not as identical to FJ as The Perfumed Garden was (well, that actually had a jasmine component to it) but it's very close, and isn't LE! I think it's the stephanotis that is giving a jasmine-like impression. The 'honey' note has become true greenish exotic orchid now, but the vanilla note is wafting like crazy! And that's a good thing…I've noticed a lot of BPAL vanillas do that and I love it! The drydown is so gorgeous, a sweet, soft, dainty scent of vanilla-orchid and Fairy Jasmine-I mean, stephanotis. I adore this! And there's even a phase when it smells like my beloved Al Araaf! Verdict: I can see why this has quite a lot of fans, it's truly beautiful. A wonderful vanilla-floral, soft, dainty, pretty and ever so feminine, at first the scent has a slight hint of honey to it, but then it becomes a wonderful fragrance very reminiscent of Lush Fairy Jasmine, but with added vanilla which wafts nicely. It even resembles Al Araaf at times. This isn't cloying or sickly at all-it's light and sweet and pale and so delightful-like a magnet, this scent attracts my nose to my wrist and it's hard to separate the two! This is definitely a big bottle scent, perfect for spring, and perfect for girly moments.

House of Night In the imp: a muted, dusty, faded scent…I can’t pinpoint exactly what this is but I get hints of floral and green in there. It’s very well blended. Wet on skin: now I can smell herbs in here-maybe rosemary or sage? Something herbal and soft, that’s for sure…and also something floral, perhaps rose? Dry: mmm, this is lovely! I can’t really tell what’s in here but I’m sure I’ve smelt some of those notes before, I just can’t say what they are for now, though I can guess…there’s a soft white floral in here, maybe tuberose, or jasmine? I also smell something that may be wisteria. Perhaps a little bit of iris? But the overall impression I get here is of heady nocturnal blooms, fragrant and potent, blooming as they hit my skin. There are also herb notes in here, and perhaps some lavender, and maybe something which may be something woody-white sandalwood perhaps? I don’t know but for now, I really like this scent. After a while: the scent becomes a pure white, shimmering floral, the herbs have faded. I think there may be tuberose in here, maybe iris as well? It actually reminds me of other scents…maybe Evening Star, or even Euterpe and Stardust? Yes, I think it seems to be between Evening Star and Stardust. I think it’s iris/orris and tuberose and possibly moonflower, and maybe white poppy? And I definitely smell a white musk note in here. It’s a lovely scent…very ghostly, luminous and ethereal, with a definite feel of night time about it. After about two hours, the drydown really reminds me of Euterpe, Stardust, and also of Dreamland. I swear this has a light/white musk component...and a slight tang or effervescence to it (what’s causing this, I don’t know-maybe the musk) and also a hint of smoke-either from opium/poppy, or a bit of tobacco? Verdict: this scent has really grown on me. At first, it’s a muted herbal floral scent, so well blended that I couldn’t recognise any individual notes. The scent had a feel of age and dust to it, it was a faded scent, almost mournful yet comforting. But gradually, the floral notes blossom and the scent changes, the herbs fade and the scent becomes a wispy white floral scent, at this point I think I can recognise some of the notes-I’m guessing iris/orris, tuberose, moonflower, perhaps a pale poppy note, and I’m pretty sure there’s white musk in here too. This is when the fragrance reminds me of two of my favourite LE scents-Evening Star and Stardust (so when I run out of those, this will be a good substitute), and also Euterpe and Dreamland. It’s a shimmering, ethereal, quite narcotic scent, reminiscent of moonlight and heady nocturnal blooms with a hint of something ghostly…and I’m growing very fond of it.

Puck In the imp: grapes with a hint of herb. Oh, and a tiny amount of civet, but nothing offensive. It’s mainly grapes. Wet on skin: oh dear, I think the civet’s getting stronger. I also smell the juniper now, a bit of sage, still some sweet grape juice, and moss. Dry: hmm, this is odd, but it’s not too unpleasant. The civet, sage and moss have merged into a strange scent which reminds me of something…like a talcum powder or dusty sort of smell. It reminds me of something-probably a kind of paint or plaster or clay, something crafts/home decorating related. But not feral and animal, just yet. An unusual scent-and my skin is pretty weird too. On top of that is the fizzy sweet grape and the juniper. After a while: then, out of the odd, dusty scent, the grape resurfaces, with the sage. I quite like this stage, it’s a nice grape-sage combination with a mossy and ‘grey’ background (that’s the best way I can explain what I smell). The civet is behaving well, for now. After half an hour, I can smell more civet. It’s not too bad but I definitely get that feral, bestial aspect of this infamous note…so now the question is, will it become ‘uni tutor’s bad breath’ on me, or will it retreat? Well, after an hour or so, it seems the civet is very feral, but in here, it’s also oddly chemical, now it starts to remind me of paint again…which kinda stops it smelling like, erm, farmyards (which is what some civet scents do to me). The juniper adds a masculine edge to the scent. Eventually it retreats to that odd paint/plaster/dust scent…which at least is better than the worst that civet can do on my skin! Verdict: this was a strange scent on me. My skin isn’t too nasty with civet, it doesn’t turn it into the nastiness I see mentioned in the reviews, but in here, it was downright weird-though not too unpleasant. It’s an odd mixture of sweetened grape juice, sage, and a mixture of juniper, moss and civet that smells at times dusty, at times a bit chemical, at times it reminds me of paint, and at other times, the scent is quite masculine smelling, and at others, it is indeed a bit feral and animalistic but not disgustingly so. It’s not a bad scent, but it’s not a scent that smells particularly nice on me. So it’s off to swaps-I’m glad I tried it though.

Nero In the imp: herbs! I smell rosemary and bay here, and a bit of lemon. Mmm, Mediterranean cooking… Wet on skin: still herbal, but now with a bit of pine coming through. Dry: a warm, herbal mixture with a hint of pine and lemon. It’s a scent that’s almost culinary, almost savoury, these are herbs that are good for cooking delicious dinners with, but as a perfume, the scent isn’t too bad, but it’s a bit masculine for me. Having said that, the scent brings to mind being on holiday in the Mediterranean, maybe in Greece or Italy, and smelling all the wonderful herbs and pine trees nearby in the heat of a lazy August afternoon. There’s a nice outdoorsy feel to it thanks to the pine (which isn’t a winter pine or cleaning-fluid pine), and a feel of warmth that makes me think of summertime in herb gardens. After a while: the pine note strengthens over time. The herbs haven’t moved away but the resinous, sap like scent of pine is much more noticeable, and it’s a sweet pine scent. It is sweetening the somewhat savoury scent of the herbs. After a short while, it fades very fast. Verdict: I was really surprised by this. Whilst not a scent I’d wear much as perfume-this will be better on a guy-I really like the images the scent brings up. Hot summers in the Mediterranean, herb gardens and pine forests in the heat of the afternoon sun, filling the air with their delicious aroma. Delicious scents of hand-picked rosemary and bay wafting out of a kitchen as you await an al fresco dinner in a Tuscan garden. It’s a warm, balsamic scent which has real outdoors feel to it, and the pine note is not ‘pine-sol’ or Christmas tree like in the slightest. I might keep this for those times when I want to be whisked away on a nose-vacation to Italy (or Greece, or any other Med country) even when the weather outside is far from summery.

Lex Talionis In the imp: spicy cedar! I smell cedar wood, with a bit of pepper and fragrant cardamom, and herbal sage and a little hint of grapefruit. Wet on skin: now I get black patchouli with cedar, a hint of vetiver, and still a lovely mix of warm spices. Dry: mmm, I quite like this. It’s a complex mixture of many scent genres-there’s the woody dryness of cedar, the dark backdrop of patchouli, myrrh and vetiver, a very slight citrus tang of grapefruit, a bit of sage, spicy black pepper and cardamom (which I can pick out in this, and I love it!) and it’s all softened by a hint of violet. It’s a very nice scent, very unisex. After a while: it isn’t long before the scents notes into an intriguing scent…it’s slightly green and woody and a little bit herbal-spicy but all at once. It’s a dry, warm, almost earthy scent, with a more prominent vetiver note coming out, but the soft, delicate, dusty note of violet lies on top, rounding out the scent very nicely. There’s even a point in the scent where I swear it smells like geranium (not sure where that comes from, it’s not listed) which I like, since I love the smell of geranium. And this ‘geranium’ note mingled with vetiver reminds me of my mum…those two scents are her favourites. The drydown is pure ‘geranium’ and vetiver, a scent which comforts me somewhat. This is the kind of vetiver I like-it’s strong, but the other scent on top complements it so nicely. Verdict: I like this scent a lot more than I expected-I thought it would be too masculine for me but I find the scent to be very unisex. It starts off as a complex mixture of different notes such as cedar, patchouli, violet, myrrh, sage, pepper and cardamom, but over time, the scents merge together so nicely that you can’t tell them apart-apart from the vetiver. And then something strange but pleasant happens-a geranium note surfaces, I have no idea where it comes from but I like geranium a lot, and with vetiver, the overall scent reminds me of my mum! That’s because geranium and vetiver are her two favourite scents…so whilst I don’t need a bottle, I will definitely keep the imp for sentimental reasons, and just because it’s a lovely scent all round.

Lughnasadh In the imp: cherries! Rich, dark, deep cherries. Reminds me of cherry sauce. Wet on skin: still cherries, but now I get hints of wheat and grain, golden and ripe, and possibly apple and spice. Dry: oooh, this is nice. I smell fruit and grains-it reminds me of Harvest Moon (both 04 and 05) at times but with cherries…it’s like a deep rich black cherry sauce, bittersweet and dark, with grain and wheat and cereals (it brings to mind fruit crumble!) and also notes of apples and also wine, I think. I also detect a tiny, tiny bit of spice underneath it all, like a mulled cider note. It’s a wonderful harvest scent. After a while: the scent gradually becomes richer and more wonderful…it’s a delightful and very true cherry scent with hints of grain and other fruits, ripe, warm and full. There is nothing medicinal or fake at all about this cherry scent-it’s possibly my favourite cherry BPAL to date! It also makes me think of cherry crumble…and I swear I’m getting carnation in here! I’m convinced that the spicy scent I am getting in here is carnation based (but it might be cloves too). The scent smoothes out nicely into a nice blend which is both fruity and spicy, a bit floral, a bit wheaty/grainy. I smell cloves/carnations merged nicely with the remaining cherry scent, a warm, rich, deep scent. At the very end of the scent, after about 5-6 hours have passed, I think I detect a hint of honey against a background of grains. Verdict: I can understand why people go crazy over this scent-it really is gorgeous. A vibrant, warm, rich cherry scent, enhanced by golden wheat, warm spices-I’m guessing cloves and possibly a spicy carnation note, and other fruits including apple and wine, I get a hint of mulled cider, and by the end, I get a hint of honey. The cherry note in this is truly delicious, like a bittersweet black cherry sauce, such a true scent with nothing candy-like or cough syrup like about it at all. The grain note reminds me of cereals and also, with the cherry, I get an effect of fruit crumble made with cherries, appetising and freshly baked. This is a scent redolent of the first harvests, late summer; it is full of life and the joy of reaping the bounty of the land, the sweet fruit and grains and the warmth of the August sun turning the fields to gold. If this ever does make a comeback this Lughnasadh (I doubt it but you never know) I will get a bottle, but for now, the decant I have will satisfy me. Now I’m seriously craving summer.

Vinland In the imp: er, this smells like my mum’s toothpaste. Yup, I ain’t kidding. My mum uses a weird, non-minty toothpaste with a medicinal smell, and that’s what I get here. Wet on skin: still that odd medicinal scent, but I get now some hints of coolness, and a dry leafy scent and a hint of rose and berry. Dry: this is an odd scent! I get a lovely rose note in here, a hint of berry and something that brings to mind dry leaves (maple, probably) but also a strange, bitter, medicinal note. I’m wondering if it’s the birch and the mayflower-especially the latter, as the actual flowers do smell a bit off sometimes. It does smell very much like my mum’s toothpaste though, with added rose, and that kinda freaks me out. After a while: eventually the scent veers away from toothpaste and then it really does smell like mayflower and rose and bark and dry leaves with a hint of fresh coolness, an unusual mix of all four seasons in one! The mayflower is a strange note…it smells a bit off at times, but I think that’s because it’s quite true to the real flower’s scent (which is itself an odd scent!). The birch bark and maple leaf add a dryness to the scent, an autumnal dry aspect. The rose is the loveliest of the notes in here, it’s warm and full and instantly recognisable. There’s a cool, bracing feel (as opposed to an actual smell) to the scent as well-the ‘wind’ note, I think…another example of how well Beth captures climate in scent. Unfortunately the mayflower seems to be taking over, and on my skin, this flower smells like it’s rotting…not even the rose can save it… It does improve somewhat after about 3 hours, but not enough to make me like this scent very much. Verdict: this is probably the only Wanderlust scent that disagrees with my skin, I’m afraid. At first, I get a strange scent which reminds me so much of my mum’s non-mint medicinal smelling toothpaste, it’s uncanny! Then the scent goes through an ok phase where different notes can be picked out, notes that span the seasons-mayflowers, roses, bark, dry leaves and a hint of a cool breeze. But the mayflower note then smells unpleasant and it makes the entire scent smell like it’s rotting! It’s not a very nice reaction, I’m afraid. It does get a bit better after a long time, but I’m afraid I can’t get over that rotting flower scent to like this. So it’s going to swaps.

Kuang Shi In the imp: yum, this smells citrus-y and fruity! I get mandarin, mango, and something reminiscent of orange blossom. Wet on skin: bittersweet mandarin peel and sweet juicy mango, a delightful fruity mix. Dry: not bad! Fruity, sweet mango comes first, with the tang of mandarin, and with a background of something slightly green and a bit dry, probably the sandalwood. The musk, I think, seems to smooth the scent and bring the notes together, and adds it’s delicate pale touch to the scent. After a while: musk and mango may seem an odd combination, but it worked with red musk in Corazon, and it works with white musk in here. I get juicy, sweet, delicious mango with a soft background of musk, which is slightly reminiscent of Mi-Go Brains without the jasmine and other fruits and flowers. I also get a little bit of sandalwood, and a hint of something almost orange blossom like, I don’t know where that comes from, but I like it. Over time, the musk and mango merge nicely, this particular white musk is quite a fresh and bright scent, almost cool, and with a gorgeous smoothness. Verdict: I really like this scent. As usual, the mango note is delicious, sweet and juicy, and at the beginning of the scent there’s a burst of mandarin sharpness which does fade, and also a hint of something like orange blossom. The drydown is reminiscent of the mango and white musk scent of Mi-Go without all the other fruits and jasmine, the mango merging nicely into the smooth, cool musk scent. It’s not a favourite but I like it enough to keep the imp-this is a great scent for summer. (oh, and I can’t stop thinking ‘drinking fresh mango juice, goldfish shoals nibbling at my toes, fun fun fun, in the sun sun sun!’ when I smell this and Corazon! )

Salamander Sexuality :: Vigor :: Force :: Energy :: WillDestruction :: Change :: Passion :: Courage Enthusiasm :: Revenge :: Daring :: Domination In the imp: sweet dragon’s blood, a bit of floral (jasmine?), a bit of cinnamon, and perhaps some smoke too? Wet on skin: a smoky floral scent with spices, and I’m sure I get frankincense now? Dry: mmm, not bad! The scent is a red floral warmed by smouldering frankincense resin, dragon’s blood and something that may be tobacco or a burning incense scent, and also some spicy notes, I’m guessing pepper and a little bit of cloves and cinnamon. The scent is smoky and warm in feel, I’m not sure what the floral note is but right now it reminds me of jasmine-it’s a red floral on the same lines as Fire Eater and Living Flame. The scent is a bit like Love Me or Fire Eater/Living Flame with hints of Djinn. Very red and hot, perfect for a fire elemental. After a while: now the scent is mainly dragon’s blood and that floral note which I’m still unsure of…is it jasmine? I’m also thinking it may be lilac. I get a hint of something that may be dried rose, geranium, or maybe camomile? Yes, it’s probably dry camomile with a bit of geranium. I get a hint of dried straw or hay from this scent at times, as well as the red, strong floral. I still get the smoky, spicy, smouldering background to the scent. The scent turns from red to purple red, a kind of velvety magenta scent, deeply floral and also very dry in scent. The dried flowers rest on a bed of lightly spiced smoke which now reminds me of a kind of incense I smelt in Tunisia, with hints of frankincense. The scent at times reminds me of an exotic rose scent, a desert rose, perhaps. The scent is so dry that even my throat feels parched, blimey. Must get a drink right away. Verdict: deep red, warm, incredibly dry, and at times exotic, the perfect scent for the elemental of fire. The scent has many aspects…resinous (frankincense, dragon’s blood), spicy (cinnamon and probably cloves and pepper), floral (I’m guessing rose, jasmine, geranium, camomile, lilac, maybe all of these?) and smoky (either incense or tobacco). the overall effect is a scent which is incredibly RED, starting at bright scarlet and progressing to deep crimson-magenta, the scent is dry and hot, reminiscent of flames, smouldering incense, dried plants and flower petals scorched by desert heat. It smells very complex and unusual and though it’s not a favourite, I think it will be excellent for ritual, or for when I need some of the aspects of fire in my life (well, I am an Aries, so this is my element, baby!)

Van Van In the imp: vanilla and vetiver! An odd combination, but it’s surprisingly pleasant. Wet on skin: light vanilla and green-yellow vetiver and now I get hints of something lemony as well. Dry: oh, this is nice. I now get the scent of sugared lemon juice! The vetiver note is still there but the scent now is of vanilla, citronella, and vetiver…and this particular combination brings back memories of my mother’s birthplace, a French island near Mauritius. The main scents I smell when I go on holiday there are that of vanilla, vetiver and citronella (the latter used mainly to keep mosquitoes away!) and I get all three in here…and that makes me all nostalgic. The sugary vanilla-lemon scent must be a special voodoo blend as I also noticed it in Follow Me Boy, and I get it in here (and I love it). Here it’s coupled with a stronger lemon scent (citronella) and vetiver. After a while: the sugary vanilla-lemon scent gets stronger, with the green, dark vetiver in the background. This vanilla scent is so delicious and light, almost creamy, it makes me think of a lemon dessert, like a lemon meringue pie or lemon pancakes with ice cream, but with vetiver oil burning to scent the kitchen, citronella added to keep insects at bay. And of course the nostalgic memories keep on coming. Verdict: this scent makes me feel good all right, and the reason is rather sentimental…this scent reminds me of my mum’s home, the French tropical island of Reunion, where vanilla is grown and vetiver and citronella oils are produced. I smell all of these in here, and it brings back memories of all my relatives, and holidays there…and at times, it smells like lemons and sugar-which I adore. As for its purpose, for amplifying positive personal power, I certainly think that is the case. With me, and the positive memories the scent brings, it’s like getting a compliment or motivational boost from my mum and aunts and uncles and cousins and (sadly, late) grandparents saying ‘go for it, you know you can do it. We have faith in you. Believe in yourself.’ And that makes me feel good. I may get more of this one day…

Unseelie In the imp: OMFG! This is a beautiful, beautiful scent, reminiscent of a sophisticated perfume I once smelt (or maybe one from Madini? It has that exotic feel to it) I smell Egyptian/Tunisian amber in here, and soft, white musky florals. Wet on skin: amber! I know it’s not listed in the notes but seriously, that’s what I get in here…amber and gentle white flowers. Dry: I can’t get over how wonderful this scent is. I get a strong amber component layered with soft white petals of floral notes I can’t identify, but I love. I think there may be white musk in here too. It’s such an exotic scent, spellbinding and seductive, pale and soft musky flowers but with warm, golden, glowing undertones of amber. I don’t get any herbs or grass in here whatsoever and a part of me wonders if I actually have the right scent, as it doesn’t fit the description. It also reminds me of another amber based BPAL scent-probably Brisingamen…I really hope this isn’t Brisingamen I have in an Unseelie decant, but it does smell paler and wispier than that scent and a few other reviews mention amber so maybe my nose ain't crazy! After a while: still amber, but the soft musky white florals also smooth out and become nicely balanced with the amber. It’s almost powdery or downy soft, gentle and pale; it makes me think of a golden sunrise through soft white mist. It’s still a breathtaking scent. I still don’t get any grass or herbs, but I don’t mind. After a few hours, when the scent is just fading away, I’m left with a light/white musk scent with hints of amber remaining. Verdict: why on earth did this get discontinued? I see why others say 'generic perfume' but to me this isn't the scent of crass commercial perfume, this is a scent that replicates good quality, sophisticated perfume and blends everything so well. The scent I get here is not of green grasses and herbs, I get the ethereal flowers-but they are draped in golden, luminous amber and soft white musk! The scent is beautiful, sultry and surprisingly warm and exotic; it is alluring and bewitching, yet also pale and delicate and soft. the scent is ethereal, pale and otherworldly, indeed, but a golden warmth lies underneath…I am captivated by yet another fairy-themed scent from the Lab (pretty much all the fairy fragrances work so well on me), and I hope that this gets resurrected some day, even as an LE! *begs and pleads*

Twenty One In the imp: a fresh, tangy, very clear scent, with a hint of juniper for the gin. Wet on skin: still fresh juniper, with a clear and almost aquatic aspect to it. Dry: this is a lot better than I was expecting. Fresh, clear, sparkling and cool, this is predominantly juniper/gin, which is almost like pine or fir at times, but less green and more transparent, it’s a piercing, cold scent. There’s a note here that’s reminiscent of sparkling water-and I really do get a feel of pure ice to this scent, it’s almost like a scent that has no scent…it sounds odd, but that’s the best way to explain it. Maybe that’s vodka? I get hints of green to the scent, probably from the juniper. But the overall impression I get here is of clear, ice-cold liquid. And not an olive in sight (or should that be in smell?) After a while: the scent turns a bit drier and greener, it’s alcoholic but not blatantly so-this is still cool, crisp and clear but with a greener, sharper juniper, and something slightly woody. It’s probably one of the few juniper notes that lasts for a long time on my skin. Verdict: this is so much nicer than I thought it would be! It’s boozy but not blatantly so-this is a scent of unbelievable clarity. It’s cool, crisp, clear and fluid, at times reminiscent of pure ice and snow or sparkling spring water, and the scent is very fresh. The dominant scent is juniper, and unlike many juniper notes, this one lasts for ages on me. At times it seems as if the scent is of nothingness, just a feeling of crispness and effervescence and transparence, but then the juniper note strengthens, at times it gets greener, and at the end, a drier, almost woody note is detected. But I really do like this-I never thought a martini perfume would smell so nice (and no olives here!) and though not a bottle purchase, this is definitely something I will wear on my 21st birthday (of course!)

Undine In the imp: sweet floral ginger and vetiver? How odd…but not bad. Wet on skin: I think there may be rose or lotus here…as well as ginger and vetiver. The scent is warm and dark, which is unexpected. Dry: hmm, what an unusual scent. I think the scent here is geranium, with a hint of lighter sweeter lotus. I get a hint of lemon verbena/citronella as well. Underneath it all is warm, murky ginger and vetiver. It’s not as watery as I expected, it’s dark and gritty but with a hint of warmth and sweetness with a lemony tang. Interesting… After a while: I’m getting some ivy now. It’s a deep green note, and there’s something almost watery now, reminiscent of an aquatic plant of some sort, a sort of pond plant. Maybe it’s water ivy? I still get that lovely sweet floral note which may be lotus, but has a hint of something almost lemony to it. Maybe there is geranium here too. I don’t get as much vetiver now, so I’m thinking the variety used in here is one of the softer vetiver notes. The colour the oil brings to mind is greenish teal with flashes of pink. Eventually the floral note strengthens again, and the scent is a well blended blend of floral and green, and now I do get a hint of aquatics to it! Finally, the water element has come into its own…it’s like cool water with warm flowers and herbs and leaves. Verdict: this is an unusual, yet interesting scent. I have no idea what is actually in here, but I’m guessing assorted notes like ginger, vetiver, lotus, geranium, lemon verbena, ivy, water plants and finally an aquatic note. The scent morphs and changes-undulates, even-from warm to gritty to sweetly floral to slightly lemony to watery and green-but always very well blended. Not a favourite but I do like this and will keep the decant, I think it may be good for ritual/meditative purposes too.

Wilde In the imp: yup, it’s gentleman’s cologne alright. I smell lavender, but there’s a citrus note which is most probably the bergamot. Also something sweet which may be jasmine or tonka. Wet on skin: it’s a manly cologne with citrus and lavender and something sweet too. Dry: mmm, not bad, but it does remind me of masculine perfume. It’s along the same lines as the likes of Casanova and Saint Germain and also Old Scratch, the lavender based manly cologne scents…at times it reminds me of another perfume I smelt elsewhere, probably a French one, maybe a Provencal lavender scent…but it’s very manly indeed. I don’t get much patchouli, but there’s a hint of tonka/jasmine sweetness. After a while: still remaining a masculine cologne scent, but now it’s becoming greener, probably thanks to the thyme and the moss…yeah, I can really smell the moss now. Just a bare touch of jasmine, which doesn’t overpower or make the scent even slightly feminine. There’s a lovely tonka note in the background but this seems a bit too male for me. I think if I had a boyfriend, I’d douse him in this though. The final drydown is pure green moss with hints of cologne. Verdict: this to me is another one of those ‘traditional lavender-based men’s colognes’ scents along the same lines as Casanova, Saint Germain, Old Scratch etc…this smells very similar, with it’s citrus, lavender, tonka, patchouli and moss notes. It also reminds me of a French perfume of sorts. It’s a nice scent, but a bit too masculine for me-this would be lovely on a man but on me it smells too much like sophisticated aftershave. It’s a lot better than the crap aftershave the boys in my flat wear though. But I much prefer Old Scratch as my ‘lavender cologne’ scent.

Santo Domingo In the imp: sweet, almost resinous or vanilla-ish, slightly herbal and a tad smoky. Wet on skin: bay rum, a sweet dark booze scent, with dry, smoky tobacco. Dry: mmm, not bad! The scent is very sultry indeed, laid back, warm and sweet. I get the impression of dark, sugared rum here, it’s not blatantly boozy but the bay lends a herbal touch. Underneath is the tobacco, which is smoky and smouldering gently. The Caribbean blooms lend a lighter, softer sweetness to the scent but don’t overwhelm or make the scent very floral-this is more about the sweet rum and tobacco. I like this a lot, it’s a very relaxed scent, warm and at times, a bit spicy. After a while: mmm, I like this. Smoky, warm, swirling and relaxed. The scent doesn’t just smell of rum and tobacco but I also detect something a bit like sugar or caramel or vanilla, and dark spices? I think I also detect a floral note which reminds me of ylang-ylang…and cloves! Yes, I think there’s clove in here-I’m not sure if I’m correct here but aren’t cloves an ingredient in bay rum? That would explain the spice in here. After a few hours, oddly, I get a dark spicy carnation scent and then this turns into musk and vanilla…which is unusual. Verdict: I like the way this smells exotic and Caribbean without smelling blatantly or stereotypically tropical, yet still smelling warm and sultry and very, very laid back. Rum and tobacco are the main notes but even they have complexity, especially the rum. I’m not sure but I think bay rum is spicy as well as herbal, as I definitely get a very sweet, spicy (I’m guessing cloves) and dark rum scent, like it’s had brown sugar or even vanilla added to it, with an almost incense like undertone of smoky tobacco-but later I get musky tones to the scent. The floral notes are very light, not showy or flashy, and they definitely don’t turn this scent into a flower-fest. I like this a lot-not enough to get a bottle, but for those lazy days when I want a bit of the mellow warmth of a summer evening, this is perfect.

Jupiter In the imp: woody! I think I smell cedar, and another wood, which may be redwood? It makes me think of tall, strong trees. Wet on skin: now I get a slight sweetness creeping out of the deep, solid woody scent. Dry on skin: this is nice. It's a medley of strong woods and forest notes. I get dry cedar, hints of sweeter, warmer sandalwood, another woody note that may be redwood? I think I get oak as well-there's a slight scent of bark in here. I'm not sure but there are other woods that I don't recognise that may be in there. possibly a hint of juniper too. There's also a sweetness to this scent-it's probably the one which others interpret as 'fruity', but to me it's not that fruity at all, it's almost like a sap scent, not sure what kind of tree sap, but it reminds me of sap or evergreens and the sweetish scent of decaying wood and autumn leaves. If that sweetness were fruity, it would be a subtle berry scent as opposed to tropical fruit punch. This scent brings to mind standing in a forest of strong, ancient and incredibly tall trees. Very majestic and powerful. After a while: soon, the scent starts to remind me of Tintagel! Yes, that's right-it's that berry and woods scent, with a hint of wine…maybe that's what the fruit note was? A soft wine note, maybe with some berries? But it does smell very Tintagel-like at this point, but without the dragon's blood, spice and leather from that scent. I'm thinking that there must be juniper in here now, along with all the other woody notes. After a while, an evergreen note surfaces, which isn't pine, so I'm thinking that it's fir or spruce. I also get a hint of smoke and incense at this point, the scent has a lovely comforting warmth to it. It's not long before this scent begins to remind me of Christmas! It's probably the winter berry and evergreen and log fire scent this blend has, but the scent on my wrist smells very festive now. It's still very reminiscent of Tintagel, but without that note that turned that particular scent soapy/waxy. Verdict: at first, this scent starts out serious, majestic, powerful, and noble. A mix of woods including (I think) cedar, redwood, oak, sandalwood and others with hints of sap and bark and a trace of dry leaves evoke being in a forest full of tall trees, ancient trees which have a protective presence, surrounding you. But then, gradually, the scent changes…a sweet note begins to surface, a fruit note which to some, registers as tropical punch, but to me, it's the scent of winter berries, and following that is an evergreen scent of fir or spruce, and juniper as well. This is when the scent becomes similar to Tintagel. There are hints of smoke and incense, something reminiscent of fragrant log fires and sugared berries-a scent that makes me think of Christmas, it's now warm, festive, jovial even! I really like it and the images it evokes-and again, very evocative of the planet it is named for.

Sleepy Moon In the bottle: soap? Oh dear…I get a hint of soap in this scent, and also something a bit spicy, and something reminiscent of Holiday Moon (bamboo?). But it's a bit soapy, which is odd… Wet on skin: once on, it smells less like soap, and more like opium incense-and that's the good opium incense that my skin likes, like the one in Red Lantern…I also smell the sandalwood. Dry on skin: ooh, this is pretty! This smells like light, gentle, Asian incense made with pale sandalwood and opium perfumes, with hints of ylang ylang and white petals, a fresh green bamboo note, a bare hint of camomile and the faintest, faintest trace of lavender. It's dry, almost dusty and ghostly, but also very delicate in scent, yet with a hint of something heavy and narcotic. It also smells similar to Holiday Moon, which may be the bamboo, or a secret blend of lunar oils reserved for this year's run of Chinese moons. It's not soapy any more. After a while: it's not long before the scent tones down and becomes much softer. The scent is now a soft, gentle layer of sandalwood and opium incense, with a little hint of ylang and camomile. This is also one of the few BPAL scents where I can really pinpoint the ylang-ylang, it smells similar to the e.o. I have of it. At this point, the scent is ever so soothing, and there's a definite Asian feel to this scent. Then, after 2-3 hours, it's ever so faint...that's my only gripe with this scent, it fades too fast on my skin. But what does remain on my skin is a gentle, soft scent of ylang and sandalwood with a little hint of opium. Verdict: Sleepy Moon, to me, is the night time equivalent of Holiday Moon. They smell very similar at times, but SM has a wonderful incense feel to it, like good quality joss sticks gently burning in an Asian temple, the scent of sandalwood and opium mingling with heady ylang-ylang flowers, moist green bamboo and a hint of camomile. At first, the bamboo scent is very strong and it smells very much like HM with added incense, but then the scent becomes more like wisps of dry sandalwood-opium incense lingering in the air before fading to sandalwood and ylang. This scent is very calm, soothing, and I can't wait to use it as a sleep aid. My only complaint is that it fades very fast on my skin…a shame really because this is another gorgeous moon scent, and the label art is wonderful.

Berenice In the bottle: green? Slightly aquatic/fresh? That may be the aloe. This reminds me of a perfume I smelt somewhere-I think it was an Egyptian musk-based one, or a waterlily one? I know that's not what this is, but it smells similar, at first. Wet on skin: yup, still that fresh, tangy, almost citrus-y light musk and green aloe scent. I can see why people compare this to commercial perfume-but this is nicer… Dry on skin: mmm, this is nice…it's now become different to that perfume I mentioned earlier, as now I can smell something floral and soft, perhaps the lily note (it doesn't smell like stargazer lily to me, more of a white lily), along with tangy, sharp green aloe. The scent does have a slight similarity to something I've probably smelt in a department store, but that's not a bad thing-this is one of the more 'perfumey' BPAL scents which smell similar to designer perfumes, but have that special Beth touch that make them so much more interesting. The more I smell this, I can detect something underneath which is the linen-musk base of Antique Lace, but instead of vanilla, this has the refreshing scent of aloe (I think that's what that tart green note is anyway) and there's something aquatic/ozone like about this scent as well. After a while: this reminds me so much of a perfume I've smelt before, but I can't for the life of me remember which one! It's a lovely fresh scent now, the aloe has mellowed out and merged with the lily to form a nice green-floral scent resting on that linen-musk base. Verdict: here is another example of a BPAL which smells like a traditional or commercial perfume, but it has that special magic touch that only Beth can do. The surprisingly tart scent of something which I think is aloe, fresh and green, rests nicely on a layer of gentle lily (which to me is more of a white lily than a stargazer) and the same musk and clean linen combination from Antique Lace. This, to me, is a fresher, brighter AL without any sweetness-this is tangy, refreshing, and clean, but not soapy at all. It also reminds me of a perfume I've smelt before but I can't remember which one. I really like it though, it reminds me of the perfumes I used to wear, the fresh-tangy-light floral scents that suited me so well in the past-and still do. I am glad to have a bottle, as this scent is great for everyday, and will be very nice for the warmer months. I also recommend this to people who are weaning themselves off the designer scents and into the more unusual world of BPAL scents, as Berenice ( along with a few other BPAL scents) is the bridge between the two perfume types.

Luperci Note: I apologise if this review is inaccurate, I have a cold and my nose is broken…this may be edited when I am better. In the bottle: mmm, this is a woody, earthy patchouli with a hint of beeswax. Wet on skin: there's a scent here that reminds me of roots in the earth, dug out of the soil. Is this the Sampson root? I also get patchouli and soft beeswax, and something balsamic which I'm assuming is the Gurjam balsam? Dry on skin: ooh, this is nice! I don't know, but I get a slight nag champa like vibe from this scent (but that could be my crappy cold-infected nose distorting the patchouli, beeswax and balsam here) with honey and lots of oak moss. Yup, this is another Lupercalia scent which has an incense like base to it-most of the Lupercalia scents have that in common. I don't get a lot of juniper, but I do get this wonderful earthiness with the scent of patchouli, moss and roots. It's dirty, that's for sure, like sticking your hands in mossy soil and pulling out tree roots, but with honey and beeswax, which adds an interesting twist to the scent. This scent is so unique and so unusual and I can't stop sniffing it. It's also very unisex, and not as manly as I expected but I think it would be amazing on a guy. After a while: this doesn't morph much, it still stays gorgeous and sweetly earthy with a hint of honeyed incense. I think the moss note is stronger now, it gives the scent slight hint of powder-I think it may also be enhanced by the musk. the scent also has a 'forest-y feel', like the soil around tree roots and the moss that grows there and decaying leaves. The incense like feel this has gives the scent an almost mystical feel-like an ancient ritual taking place in the woods. I think my skin chemistry/nose is off at the moment I think, because I get a tiny hint of something reminiscent of tobacco as well, which is nice. Verdict: I am very impressed at the Lupercalia collection of LE scents, and this is another fascinating fragrance-it's not a favourite like Perfumed Garden and Night's Pavilion but I really like it, and it's so unique and fascinating. This scent is earthy-very earthy indeed, like soil and roots and moss on the ground in a forest, the earthiness of the scent enhanced by patchouli. But the honey and beeswax add an interesting dimension to it all, sweetening it and adding an interesting twist. There's also an incense like feel to the scent-at times reminiscent of nag champa, which adds another aspect to the scent…it's these that set this apart from the Lab's other 'earthy/dirty' scents and make this such an intriguing fragrance-one that is equally nice on both men and women. Another work of art from the Lab.

Hurricane In the imp: strong vetiver with a fresh, aquatic-ozone note. Wet on skin: still murky vetiver with a rainy note to it. Dry: whoa, the vetiver is very powerful in here-I have a feeling it’s one of the Lab’s stronger vetiver notes (and the type that amps on my skin!) so the scent is predominantly the ashy, earthy, gritty, dark green and slithering scent of vetiver…however I get a hint of that fresh rain note, it’s almost like an aquatic or ozone note, it’s a very refreshing, cool scent, breezy and wet. Funnily enough, when this rain note is merged with the warmer scent of vetiver, it seems to give the impression of humidity, and also of smoke, splintered woods, ruined vegetation and mud. The scent really does have that feel of destruction to it… After a while: it’s still a strong dark vetiver scent, freshened by that rain note-this is one of those ozone/aquatic notes that seems to be nice on my skin, it doesn’t turn to soap. Verdict: this is the fresh scent of wind and rain turned sinister. Underneath a fresh and breezy, cool and moist rain/wind note lies the angry, dark, gritty and ashy scent of vetiver, which in here, is very prominent. It’s the kind of vetiver which amps up on my skin, but in here, it seems to work and seems to make the scent fit the theme and name…it adds a feel of something destroyed, something ruined by a terrible storm with it’s aspects of smoke, ruined woods and vegetation, mud and upturned earth, and also a slight feel of tropical humidity, especially when combined with the ozone/rain note in this scent. The scent is very stormy indeed…and here’s another one of those rare sound-scent associations: in this scent, if the vetiver’s brooding darkness had a sound, it would be a low growl of thunder. Not a favourite of mine (it seems quite a masculine scent at times) but definitely an evocative fragrance, the kind of thing that Beth does so well.

Thalia In the imp: a sweet, heady white floral with a champagne tang. Wet on skin: sweet plumeria with a hint of tangy pear and bubbly. Dry: ooh, I like this! This is definitely a cheerful scent. It’s sweet, floral, juicy, floral, and also tangy and dry. The plumeria adds it’s tropical, heady floral scent to the scent, paired up with the pale, crisp juiciness of pear, and with the effervescent and dry scent of champagne fizzing away between them. This scent makes me think of this: imagine being invited to a millionaire’s outdoor party at his tropical island mansion. Imagine hanging out in a garden filled with exotic blooms whilst drinking champagne amongst the rich and famous. That’s the vibe this scent has-glamorous, sophisticated and summery. After a while: after half an hour, the pear note comes out in full…and what a pear this is! It’s very realistic, like the scent of a pear split in half, sweet, light, and a bit tangy. Hints of plumeria and bubbly linger on the side, but for now, it’s predominantly pear. The drydown after a few hours is mainly pear with a hint of white flower petals. Verdict: this is, as the name implies, a very cheerful scent indeed. The heady, exotic scent of plumeria, the juicy fruity scent of pear, and the crisp tang of champagne go together really nicely. The scent is summery, light, with a feel of sophistication to it, and it’s also a light hearted scent, makes me think of outdoor summer parties-albeit expensive ones with champagne on tap-whilst the plumeria adds a tropical aspect to the scent. The drydown of this scent has the most genuine and recognisable pear note I’ve smelt in a BPAL. I like it a lot and will keep the imp-I don’t need a bottle yet though.

Lust In the imp: mmm, red musk, deep, rich and with a slight hint of floral ylang. Wet on skin: sexy red musk, lightened by ylang. This is lovely! Dry: whoa, the ylang is strong at this point! The scent is heady and dark, with the strong floral scent of ylang competing with the fruity and deep red musk, darkened by earthy notes of patchouli and myrrh. This scent is pretty intense …and as usual, the red musk note is delightful. After a while: after the initial blast of ylang, the scent then settles down after a few minutes into a really gorgeous, darkly sweet scent, with all the notes well balanced but with red musk taking centre stage, supported by sweetly floral ylang and dark myrrh. This is sexy and dirty (and I mean good dirty!) and I like it! As the scent dries down, it doesn’t change too much, but I do start to notice a similarity to Sin (which I love) which is probably due to the musk and patchouli, except in the place of the spice, this one has ylang. Verdict: I adore red musk, so it’s no surprise that I love this scent. It’s very heavy on the red musk-that deep, rich, slightly fruity, slightly spicy, and ever so sexy musk, strengthened by patchouli (which also lends a Sin-like feel to the scent), darkened by myrrh, and with the heady, full on floral of ylang ylang. At first, the ylang is very strong but eventually the musk wins and the scent becomes a glorious fruity-incensy red musk scent. I love this scent but since I have so many other red musk scents that I love, I probably won’t need a bottle of this yet, but you never know!

King of Spades In the imp: sweet plum and berry with green tones, maybe some earthy notes too. Wet on skin: mmm, this smells very similar to the Queen, with it’s greenish earthy-fruity feel. It’s sweet, juicy, but now also a bit tart. Dry: ooh, I like this! This scent is very similar to Queen of Spades-it has that same plum and blackberry feel to it, again, edged with green giving the feel of fruit that has been freshly picked with leaves still attached…it’s juicy, both sweet and tangy, but the vetiver and moss add an earthy green feel to the scent. I also get slight hints of vanilla, coconut and white musk. After a while: this is very berry! The predominant note on me is blackberry, with just a hint of plum, fringed with green, and with just the barest trace of vanilla/coconut and with white musk adding a lighter note to the scent. I also get vetiver lurking underneath it all. This is a lovely scent reminiscent of early September, the end of summer, just before autumn starts, the beginning of the harvest, when the brambles burst with dark and juicy blackberries, nestling in thorny green surroundings. After an hour or two…I don’t know if it’s my still-recovering-from-a-cold nose or what, but the scent seems a bit faint on me now, but I can make out a lot of dark smoky vetiver at this point, lying underneath a sweet, dark berry/plum scent with just a hint of vanilla. Very interesting…I just wish it was stronger though! Verdict: this King seems to complement his Queen very well, because at first, this scent is very similar to Queen of Spades-it has that same juicy berry-plum vibe, fringed with earthy dark green notes…except this one may be a bit sweeter with just a little bit of white musk. Over time, the scent becomes more masculine in feel (but doesn’t become overly manly) as the vetiver creeps up from behind the blackberry and adds an earthy, dark touch to the scent. The only criticism is that it seems to fade fast on my skin (but that may be my nose as well, which is being very annoying) but even so, I am very glad to have tried this now-rare scent, a scent reminiscent of gathering blackberries and plums at the end of summer, complete with hints of thorny brambles. I like it.

Nemesis Note-my nose is recovering from a cold as I write this. I may update when I’m better. In the imp: sharp cypress and sweetish, greenish fig, and a hint of hot ginger. Wet on skin: the scent sweetens a bit, the fig ‘ripens’ and I think I get a hint of something floral… Dry: mmm, not bad! This is unique, earthy, and with an interesting bite to it, but on the skin, it mellows out very nicely. I smell ripe sweet fig with a hint of dry, woody cypress, the tonka sweetening the scent, the ginger adding warmth, and just the barest hint of rose and patchouli and another soft floral note which I can’t recognise, but it may be the cyclamen. It’s a lovely combination of complex notes that seems to work really well! After a while: oh, I really like what happens after 30 mins-1 hour. The scent is now a gorgeous mixture of rose, ripe sweet fig, and tonka, with a little bit of patchouli and ginger. I love this stage of the scent-it’s got that smoky, fruity, almost autumnal background that I like, and that I’ve noticed in other BPAL scents. It also reminds me very much of another one of my favourite scents-Queen of Clubs, but without the wet soil note and with different fruit notes. Verdict: I’ve been looking all over for a good substitute for Queen of Clubs (for when I run out) and whilst this isn’t identical, it’s the closest to QoC that I’ve smelt so far. I wasn’t sure about the beginning since the cypress was a bit harsh but not too off putting…and this eventually faded, letting the sweet fig, tonka, and rich rose come out, with hints of ginger and patchouli. The drydown this scent has is that wonderful fruity-floral smoky earthy scent which reminds me of autumn-but in here, there’s a lovely rose note that adds something extra to the scent. I love this scent-I’m not sure if I need a bottle yet but I’m keeping the imp and I’m sure that one day I’ll get a bottle (and possibly try layering this scent with Graveyard Dirt to replicate QoC!)