MCS4096

Leather may be my favorite note. I've tried many many bpal leather blends. I was so excited to see this SN, as I've longed for a leather SN forever, and it was an instant buy. Unfortunately, this is not working out for me at all and I actually think it's because this isn't entirely leather.. or rather, it's a leather note comprised of a mix of other notes that don't wear like "leather" traditionally does for me. As others sense, I too think there's musk here and perhaps that's my problem. This feels most like the leather in Edgar Miche to me-- smelling much more like musk and some spice that start out as a perfume version of leather, an idea of leather, but quickly turn acrid and sour and more like an unfortunate body odor. The Red Rider originally (the very first imp I got of it, when it was first released) smelled so accurately of warm, soft, worn leather.. but by the time I got around to a bottle I would swear it was actually a mix of red and skin musks masquerading as "leather" This has seemed the case in some recent bpal leather blends (Unicorn and Ram to a degree for example) and I'm beginning to wonder if leather notes have gotten prohibitively expensive or the lab changed their source. Clearly not everyone is having the same experience as I am, so I'm pretty bummed to find my chemistry destroying this breed of leather.

The "Dead Leaves and X" blends all feature a leaf note I find different than that found in other leaf containing blends (October, Falling Leaf Moon, etc) because none of those dry down to the high-pitched, rather sharp traditional perfume note these all feature. Once you get over that it smells nothing like leaves when it dries down, the important part is how prominent it is compared with the other featured notes. My selections last year featured much too much of that note. This blend features a lot of purple-red blackberry though, so the end result is really nicely balanced. It's certainly not earthy, crunchy leaves and juicy berries however. It's like.. sophisticated purple berry incense.

Illustration for Robert Blairs The Grave Rivulets of beeswax and amber flame illuminating a pale blue midnight, eddying with phantom violets, olive blossom, and moss. I'm surprised no one has reviewed this yet, it's just lovely! If you're a beeswax fan, definitely check this out. Upon application this is sooo much sweet beeswax. The olive blossom is the next most prominent note, it has a somewhat green sweetness that blends so beautifully with the beeswax, making this so bright and alive smelling. The violet is light, adding a hint of powder. I get no moss really, although I love it and was hoping for it, it's often present as a binding type note.. As time goes by the amber begins to show itself more, adding a delightful hint of spice. The brightness fades and this is a sweet, soft powdered scent with the nuances of violet and amber. I think this will appeal to fans of beeswax for sure, and also those who enjoy "baby sweetness" type blends-- soft creamy florals, body-powder like scents, skin musk, soft, snuggly, comfy blends.

This blend called out to me so strongly! What an unusual and intriguing blend of notes, I had to try it right away. In the bottle it is achingly syrupy sweet with a distinct 'green and watery' note, just as Antoinette described it. However, I would personally not describe the myrrh note here as soft! I am a lover and amper of myrrh and I think not since my beloved Minotaur have I witnessed such a forceful and spicy myrrh (not even the Golgothan Myrrh, which was practically rosey to my nose) For a brief few minutes after application I smell the papyrus note unfurl, green and reedy, wet without really being "aquatic" It's exotic and fascinating combined with the sweetness here, then BANG! in comes the myrrh and for the rest of the wear this is sweet and spicy nose-tickling resin for me. It's definitely a beautiful myrrh, but of course I miss the initial complexity. We'll see how some rest helps.

In the bottle this is all sweet creamy sarsaparilla. Not very herbal, definitely root beer. The leather shows up on the skin and yes, it's a gentle dry leather. As this wears on the vanilla does go through that plastic phase most vanillas do for me anymore, though that seems to be most evident up close rather than in the throw thankfully. It eventually settles into a moderately sweet vanilla with the leather reading as a dry and dusty edge. I hate to say it but if you're not looking for the leather you might read it as 'stereotypical vanilla candle' But if you can appreciate the nuances, the subtly of this one is plenty lovely for daily wear and I think it will actually shine as a layering blend-- I'm going to try it over other leather blends (Jareth and Hunter perhaps). I'm reminded strongly of Tombstone of course.

This is like the grown up naughty version of Pleasant Embrace from the 2015 Lupers.. so if you liked that, or missed out on it, give this one a try! How could I not try something with the descriptor "sweaty"?! I pretty much universally avoid the lab's honey note, but I went for this anyway cause of that "sweaty" The notes here are very well blended. I never do really pick out obvious honey, leather, castoreum or coconut. What I get is definitely sweaty pear-- a heavy juicy pear with a deep animalistic base. My skin really brings our base notes and animalic notes, so that might explain why I dont get the suntanny coconutty vibe others are getting.

I was surprised how much I liked this straight out of the decant. I got it because it seemed like a slightly strange collection of notes with the fir and khus mixed in there, and I like experiencing odd ducks. After application this is absolutely gorgeous and so well balanced-- sweet, creamy, a tad figgy.. every now and then a whiff of vanilla or fir passes through. Very dynamic and unusual but easy to wear. The "cream" never goes sour or plasticy. But then the same thing happens that happens with Love and Sleep (fig milk, vanilla, orchid, ylang ylang) and as time passes it gets sweeter, and stronger, and sweeter and stronger, until it's this overwhelming and high pitched and blasting sweetness that's very unpleasant. I'm not sure if it's the fig or ylang ylang doing that on my skin.. I'd have guessed lotus because it's an almost bubblegummy sweetness, but it's not listed in Love and Sleep. Anyway, I really love this for the first hour or so, but I'm not sure I can handle that far dry down.

I thought this would smell like Gore-Shock, which I actually LIKE.. amazingly enough.. It goes kind of resinous-smokey with a hint of salt. But uh..... this is fucking foul Just wondering if anyone out there has the guts to put this on their skin!

A Low Candle-Lit Room from the Lovecraft Yule blends a few years ago Candle wax and waxen "skin," rotting leather and reeking damp wood, and the ashes of a yawning, cold fireplace

I wonder if this is going to be a repeat of the cardamom, tobacco, whatsit hairgloss where there seemed to be a couple batches out there-- because I get NO vanilla or musk. Zip. Zero. 100% dead leaves. Its pretty intense right when I put it on, but it fades down to be a little bit softer and spicier, but still a little more masculine than I'd prefer. Was really hoping the vanilla and musk would smooth it out a bit.

This is simple, delicious perfection! Oh how I wish this was a perfume oil (though that wont stop me from using this as such) As GlowJob said it's a balance of the two notes, a medium sweet licorice and a black leather that isnt too strong. Really really lovely and right up my alley.

Lovely photos nathanielhebert!

This one does have a fascinating color! Actually, the whole set of Plagues was fun to decant because there were some different colors there.. I agree that this is a very dry scent. I was expecting some juiciness from the cherry (especially with the "oozing" description haha), but I get a freaking ton of patchouli and labdanum (of which I am unfortunately not a huge fan) with a bit of dessicated sweetness from the cherry. I wish the opoponax was more present because it would add bit more resinous sweetness to the blend. As it dries on me it becomes quite strong and unisex leaning masculine. Woody, dark, and intense. Not for the faint of heart but if you're into heavy duty patchouli with some subtle nuances, this might be up your alley.

I've had a lot of trouble with red musk in recent years tending to overtake all other notes, but I was pleasantly surprised that it seemed to stay in check here. On me this is mostly a fuzzy brown musk and a glorious sweet spicy myrrh (that will forever remind me of Minotaur, one of first bpal blends I fell head over heels for). I dont get much leather, and I'm a leather lover. A waft of red musk and a dash of that odd savory saffron scent.

I really thought I liked this at first-- the vanilla mint is so nice, but the rosewood (I think?) gets a little too sour in the background and it starts to turn my stomach a bit This sometimes happens to me when a "foody" smell is mixed with a "perfume" smell.. my brain just equates it with eating perfume or soap or something. I might give it another go because the vanilla mint is really nice-- very dimensional, whereas I found How Doth The Little Crocodile a little too flat personally.