Balame

Not what I was expecting, but certainly not bad either. As others have said this starts out in a surprising way. It smells like an almost alcoholic nutmeg to me. Deep and sweet, but also dry and airy. Brighter than I imagined. There’s a soapiness and a little bit of a fruity/citrus vibe from the cistus. During this stage I don’t hate it, but it smells a bit generic and/or cleaner-ish. However, as it dries it becomes quite the charmer. The amber and tobacco suddenly show up and darken the blend, giving it a sweet, incense-y and throbbing base. Yet the cistus remains and now an amazing vanilla helps overlay it with that same cool and airy feeling. The cistus also becomes less fruity and simply rounds out the amber. Something of a play in opposites. Sweetly smoky but not cloying. Makes me think of a succubus/incubus or an attractive someone giving you beckoning glances from the shadowed corner of a bar. Enticing, seductive, but also comfortable. I like it despite the weird wet stage. I’ve never smelled tobacco thinned out in such a pleasing way before. Give it time to settle since it’s a morpher.

Like zankoku noted, the label art for this is epic. I wanted to like it just for that, but let’s get to the blend itself! The lemongrass is nice; I’ve always loved the smell and was excited to see it here. It reads true: bright, fresh and citrusy, but not high-pitched or overwhelming. I don’t really get any patchouli woodsiness, but I smell a delicate red floral (carnation) and yes, “frothy” vanilla which somehow feels very liquid and smooth. The Lab did a great job on that note. Overall it makes me think of Thai tea. For some reason I feel like some hip, young J-pop artist would smell like this. The blend is bright and happy but primarily citrus/floral on me, where I would’ve preferred the amazing vanilla take front and center. I wish the frankincense and patch developed more on me, because I think they could have darkened it up enough to suit me more, but unfortunately they’re not really present. A pleasant and unique scent, but not my style.

This reminds me of Knight in Shiny Armor, but it’s made more Yule-y due to the juniper. A bit bright at first, but in a mature way. It feels like there could be a little white musk in here, or maybe some combo of the notes is just reading that way. It isn’t sharp or cloying at all. I do love me some sage, and this gives it a beautiful platform on the soft woodsy/leather base, with the citrusy aspect of the chypre joining it on the top. No single note is trying to push the other out of the way; it’s blended well. Juniper is usually iffy on me because of Xmas tree associations (don’t always feel in the mood for that), but here it’s tempered nicely. It makes for a clean woodsy skin scent roughed up gently by the leather. The leather gains strength making it more woodsman than businessman as it dries. Kind of like a lighter, more refined version of Ranger to me. Very nice.

This is fantastic. It's a super delicate cacao fused with pillowy mallow and a hint of honey. I know there are more notes in there but it's pretty simple on me, in a good way. No floral note which is a plus, and I don't even notice the patchouli. Everything smells very natural and yummy, but it's soft and very much a skin scent. It could be called a much, much gentler relative of Banshee Beat. Foody but refined, sweet but not overwhelming. Kind of reminds me of Delight and Consternation (which I love) in that it's a light foody mix that passes as "your skin but better." So good.

I could have sworn I reviewed this ages ago. Ah well, better late than never. Lady Death: Savage was a blend I wore for a good 3-4 years before finally shelving it then subsequently selling it to someone who'd appreciate it more. It was one of my early favorites, but my tastes have changed and I can't handle musky sweetness like I did before. It's does have a vaguely commercial feel to it thanks to the heavy musk, but the bergamot and bois de jasmin brighten things up and bring it into more unique territory. It's sparkly, but not in an effervescent way. The rich, perfumey base of musk, vanilla and resins would be quite dark on their own, but by layering it with a floral/citrus combo it becomes more welcoming and stereotypically "womanly." It's great if you want to feel friendly/presentable but still carry a hint of mystery about you. It does come across as expensive, but in an approachable way, if that makes any sense. This was one of the few perfumes where jasmine didn't bother me, but I guess that component eventually caught up to me. It just felt too floral/musky over time despite my love of the amber/citrus/vanilla. I think this is a great blend to introduce someone to BPAL when they're used to mainstream stuff - it has several components that would be at home in a commercial setting, but then gives them an interesting twist. As for the inspiration itself, while I enjoyed the blend I never really felt like this perfume lived up to its namesake. It feels more like Lady Death in this picture (rich, elegant, sexy) versus her crazy warlord side.

I never reviewed this? Dang. CLH was a blend I was interested in based on the sun-warmed hay note alone - I find it to be very soothing and outdoorsy. This did not disappoint. The hay is very realistic and gentle, and it's backed by spicy herbs, something syrupy and smoky grass (vetiver, probably). It's a great mix and very evocative. I don't find it creepy at all, instead being both intriguing and cheerful. I can see the spices becoming overwhelming on someone who amps them, but otherwise I think this is one of the underappreciated gems of BPAL. Anyone who likes foody and/or woodsy blends should definitely give it a shot. I think it's similar to Halfling but less Yankee's Candles sweet and more natural.

Hopefully people don't mind me jumping in again, I don't mean to monopolize the recs. I'm jealous that you're a distant relative of Grace O'Malley! From one (lesser but still partially) Irish-descended gal to another, here are my thoughts: Anne Bonney - A blend of Indonesian red patchouli, red sandalwood, and frankincense. Dana O'Shee - Offerings of milk, honey and sweet grains were made to placate these creatures, and it is that the basis of the scent created in their name. Embalming Fluid - A light, pure scent: white musk, green tea, aloe and lemon. Half-Elf - White sandalwood, beeswax, white tea leaf, oud, and a hint of sophisticated urban musk. Leanan Sidhe - Her perfume is a crush of Irish herbs and flowers, Gaelic mists, and nighttime dew. Nemesis - Cypress, ginger, fig, dried rose, red patchouli, tonka bean and cyclamen. Pepper - Wild English roses, French gardenia, vanilla, honey, golden ginger, blood orange, pine resin, pink pepper, crushed berries, tuberose, bergamot, and geranium. The Chicken-Legged Hut - Creaky wood and sun-dried thatching, clacking bones, leering skulls, burnt herbs, and enormous magical chicken feet. LE: Harp of Cnoc I'Chosgair, The - Gilded amber, tiare, golden sandalwood, vanilla, cardamom, and tagetes. Host of Air, The - Peat and rolling grass-covered hills, with wine-dappled heather, white clover, cloudberry, juniper berry, bluebell, dandelion, and cross-leaved heath. In the Forest - A wild, passion-inflamed skin musk with black pine pitch, brown leather, black clove, copal, white sage, oakmoss, patchouli, and saffron. Kit - Mysore sandalwood, a tattered and patched 16th century waistcoat, inkstained, still scented with the marjoram and benzoin dry perfumes of his youth. Lambs-Wool - Roasted apples mashed into warmed milk and ale, with nutmeg, sugar, ginger, and clove. Pirate Moon - Red musk, ambergris, coconut palm, red sandalwood, balsam, date, warm leather, tobacco, ebony, lingum vitae wood, pandanus grass, an' a touch o' lime. Post-Mortem Laureatus - White sandalwood and twining ivy. Russian Dance, The - Florentine iris, black tea, labdanum, patchouli, champaca flower, benzoin, and ambergris. Sailor's Den, The - Orris, bay rum, palm, coconut meat, oak wood, tobacco, linen, blue lilac, and leather. Sword of Surtur, The - Iron and fire; red-hot ginger, fossilized amber, prickly poppy, red cedar, cubeb, star anise, and scorpion pepper. White Witch, The - Gold-flecked honey amber pulsating with red musk, patchouli coeur, bourbon vanilla, inky vetiver, pomegranate rind, myrrh, blackened violet leaf, and blood red rose petals. I know I don't always explain my choices in full, but my thought here was balancing soothing and outdoorsy scents based on your affinity with animals and remote excavation sites with more fiery blends in a nod to your scrappy side.

So pretty. Definitely my favorite BPTP blend out of their Lupers this year. When I got this I sprayed it on and was initially disappointed. It was a nice, non-astringent lavender slightly darkened by the oudh, but it still smelled predominantly like basic lavender EO - no complexity to differentiate it. Thankfully I let it sit a few days and that seemed to allow everything to settle. Now I get the same lavender but with the warmth of a beautiful, soft vanilla backing it. I can't really pick out the sandalwood but it's still a lovely, comforting combo.

While I love patchouli I'm not a big fig fan, but I was generously frimped this by my BPTP decant circle leader. Far be it from me to pass up a free tester! This mix is interesting. I agree with Boudicca in feeling like this is almost sweetly minty, warm yet fizzy. I'm used to fig being darker but this is definitely a more playful version. While it does almost come across as cola, it retains a nice earthy smell thanks to the patch. Something about this combo nearly reads as musty Xmas tree, and I hope that doesn't sound terrible because I mean it in a nice way. Usually pine sap can be a bit overwhelming, but this takes that sort of sharp greenery and puts a damper on it. In the end it's still not really my style, but I enjoyed it more than I expected. Seems like a great Yule blend to me, or simply when you want something comforting but refined.

I thought Gula would be more intense than it is with all the powerfully sweet notes listed, but it's really quite delicate. This is both good and bad... I smell light chocolate, a whiff of caramel and a slight tartness from the black currant. It's not terrible, but the overall effect is like some generic piece of candy, not a decadent gourmet dessert. Something a bit plastic-y about it as well (probably the honey; doesn't always happen on my skin but when it does it's very noticeable). Not complex or realistic enough for me, and instead it comes across like a commercial Bath & Bodyworks spray.

This is much more cologne-y than I expected. I was thinking it would smell like roughed-up incense, but instead it's surprisingly clean and bright. The very strong musk is definitely responsible for the cologne vibe, but after a few minutes the tobacco takes center stage and lends more heaviness. I really like BPAL's tobacco, but between that and the musk they sort of eclipse everything else. I can pick out the sweetly fizzy yet muted ambergris behind them, but unfortunately the musk is still loud enough that it verges on pushing me into headache territory. Very surprised by this as white musk usually plays nicely with others, but here it's just screaming for all the attention. While ambergris is generally one of my favorite notes, I wonder if this combination is what's making it too sharp. I can't pick out any cacao or opoponax. Would be great without the musk (and perhaps a toned down ambergris), but as it is this is overwhelming on me. Too many powerful notes vying for the limelight.

Smells like Bliss. It's not all that deep or bitter, and I was hoping for a true "dark chocolate" smell (more bittersweet than sugar rush). Don't get me wrong, it certainly smells like chocolate and I will never dislike that, but it just doesn't differentiate itself from other basic chocolate blends enough for me to warrant buying more. It reminds me a lot of Solstice Scents' Cocoa Mallow, sadly discontinued now, as well.

I love the benzoin in this. It's smooth, warm and softly resinous. Mysterious yet inviting. The vanilla is okay, but that's just my personal preferences speaking. I really like foody vanilla and bourbon vanilla is not that; it's gentle but verges on an almost floral sort of sweetness. Thankfully not so much that it freaks me out (as a flower hater), but it does feel too "I'm a rich lady and you shall not speak to me," where I wanted a cuddlier blend. The vanilla is the main player here (which I should have expected based on the name!) instead of the benzoin, so it's a pass for me, but for those who really like perfumey vanilla it should be a big hit.

I'm having the same experience as Herb Girl. I hesitated on this one because I thought the cardamom might be too astringent, but instead of getting sharp spice it smells more like anise here. Since I'm not a big fan of licorice that isn't sitting too well with me. On the upside, the vanilla is really sweet and gorgeous. This is fairly airy and what I'd call "grown-up gourmand." The notes are foody yet they come together in a way that smells more perfumey and elegant than dessert-ish. Surprisingly I'm getting very little tobacco, though it lends some weight to the blend. Seems this one either wears differently on people or else there are strong batch variations, as it's definitely vanilla predominant for me. The cardamom/anise note will probably keep me from upgrading my sample size, but it's nearly a winner thanks to the fantastic vanilla.

Waters of the Well of Wisdom - Cool, dark water steeped with mugwort, mayweed, and thyme. I know you said you weren't looking for literally "earthy" smells, but I love this one. It smells exactly like the description: pure water with a deep, soothing herbal background. The most grounding blend to me. Lacus Solitudinis - Meditative white sandalwood with rosewood, Roman chamomile, white lavender, marjoram, Himalayan cedar, and oudh. Another one true to its description; beautiful sandalwood and sweet herbs, very calming and quieting. I like some of Anne's recs too. The Phoenix, Having Burst Her Shell and Relics of Herself are both kind of solemn but comforting. I know how you feel about winter. Personally, when the sun isn't out but I need some pepping up I like wearing beachy scents to remind me of "better times." My favorite ocean blend is Y'ha-nthlei (A swirling, lightless, effervescent scent: the deepest marine notes with bergamot, eucalyptus and foamy ambergris). It's just fantastic. It's a bright, foamy, sweet and fizzy mix of warm sand, ocean waves and... bubbles? Haha, it's hard to describe but pretty great if you like aquatics. It's got the citrus and marine thing going on but with the bonus of ambergris' warmth and depth.

I always laugh when ducks go underwater. I know they have the natural flotation thing going on, but the whole act of sticking their bums in the air while their little feet just kind of dangle looks hilarious. Before I get into "serious" recs I have to recommend this one just based on your "biting fairy from outer space" comment: Fairy Bites - Osmanthus and raw honey with lavender, chamomile, white peppermint, raspberry, honeysuckle, thyme, bergamot, and Dracula orchid. It might be too floral for you, but most people who have reviewed it say it's a nice mix of fruity/floral and the lavender isn't too intense. I think the peppermint will brighten it nicely. Although some of the following have a few of your "dislikes" in them, I've tried to pick blends where they aren't predominant and might otherwise suit you. Since you like Black Cashmere which is spicy/woodsy you might find patchouli is still good so long as it isn't the main player. Other thoughts: Bengal - Skin musk with honey, peppers, clove, cinnamon bark and ginger. Plunder - Tea leaf, cassia, cinnamon bark, clove, allspice, sandalwood, tobacco, peppercorn, and nutmeg. Kubla Khan - Serpentine opium smoke and amber tobacco, golden sandalwood, champaca, tea leaf, sugared lily, ginger, rich hay absolute, leather, dark vanilla, mandarin, peru balsam, and Moroccan jasmine. Spider - White ginger, artemesia, vetiver, nutmeg, King mandarin, bergamot, and lime. The Lion - A golden, spiced amber, proud, regal and ferocious. Dee - Soft English leather, rosewood and tonka with a hint of incense, parchment and soft woods. Jack - True Halloween pumpkin, spiced with nutmeg, glowing peach and murky clove. Chaotic - A whirling mélange of multicolored musks with wasabi, rooibos, heliotrope, and mastic. Some LEs: El Dia de los Reyes - Hot cocoa with cinnamon, coffee, and brown sugar. All Souls - An incense blend that invokes the higher qualities of mercy and compassion, mingled with the soft, sugared currant scent of offertory soul cakes. Calaveras - Xocolatl, tequila, copal incense, smoke-dried jalapeños, vanilla pods, and cajeta. The Infernal Lover - A creamy, sensual, honeyed red musk. Mircalla, Countess Karnstein - Red musk, purple orchid, frankincense, smoky vanilla, Styrian herbs, peru balsam, tonka, Zanzibar clove, and patchouli. VILF - Patchouli-infused honey, red musk, red sandalwood, red ginger, pink pepper, Peru balsam, dark Eastern florals, Himalayan cedar, smoky vanilla, bitter clove, and leather. And these are LEs from the current Lupers: Venus Genetrix - Black amber and jasmine tea with 7-year aged vanilla bourbon absolute. Venus Obsequens - Pink apple and blackcurrant with honey and cardamom. Serving Tea After Coitus - Green tea, heady honey, white plum, ambergris accord, and vanilla flower. I want to recommend Mars Ultor too since it has nutmeg, but it also has tobacco. Are you sure you don't like tobacco? When I first dove into perfumes I thought I would hate it because I only ever knew tobacco from the gross pipe smell and cigarettes, but BPAL's is really gorgeous, sweet and chewy... it comes across more resinous to me than dry or, well, toxic. Might be worth a shot!

Haven't smelled Lurid Bonbon yet, but that might fill in for the wulric For lavender + vanilla I'd say Capax Infiniti (A scent warmed by a whole lot of love: honey-snuggled skin musk, sweet vanilla ice cream residue, and lavender oil (Lilith’s favorite!), with a gentle hint of Dorian) and/or Who In the World Am I? (Sheer vanilla, hinoki wood, lavender, bergamot, cotton blossom, and lightly spiced oriental blossoms) Depending on how well you get along with woodsy blends I'd recommend How Doth the Little Crocodile (Chocolate peppermint, mint-soaked vanilla, pistachio, oakmoss, and green cedar) too. I know there's no lavender so that might defeat the purpose, however the peppermint with moss gives it an herbal vibe, and with all the sweeter notes it presents similarly to lavender. The sharper choc-vanilla is very Wulric to me.

It's been a long time since I smelled B&B, but from what I remember Dana O'Shee has a similar sweet, milky, foody feel (Offerings of milk, honey and sweet grains were made to placate these creatures, and it is that the basis of the scent created in their name). Too sweet for me but you may like it. The best sweet cake/bread I've smelled is Delight and Consternation (Bourbon vanilla, custard accord, white rose, cocoa absolute, oudh, lemon blossom, and skin musk) which is like the most delicious lemon tart ever. And for a more incense-y cake All Souls is amazing. Definitely has a buttery, lip-licking vibe to it. Sprinkle Cake and Very Pink Surprise Cake are the others I can think of. Surprise Cake was a truer cake to me while Sprinkle was a little too candy sweet, though of course your experience might be different.

I'm surprised this blend never got a lot of reviews; I think it's very pretty and underrated. When first applied Geisha is a super sparkly orange, heightened even more by the styrax (it comes across as brightly green/herbal and almost spicy, but is still calming). As things soften up the tuberose lends a gentle, silky white floral to the mix and the sandalwood gives the other notes a warm, resinous base to play in. This is definitely a "woman's" perfume. It doesn't feel childish at all as some fruity/floral combos can be, instead making me think of an elegant... well, geisha, or some other type of regal performer. Could even come across as royal to me. It's a perfect blend for spring and summer, happy and delicately sweet. Even as someone who usually hates florals, the tuberose blends with the other notes so perfectly here that it barely registers. I definitely recommend citrus lovers track this one down, or those who like "foody but not" scents.

I can't just list one blend for 12 different princesses, so here's a mix of things that could suit royalty. Vasilissa - Creamy skin musk and blushing pink musk with soft sandalwood, white amber, dutiful myrrh, and star jasmine. Roses, Pearls, and Diamonds - Red roses, dazzling crystalline musks, and pearlescent coconut-tinged orris. The King's Daughter - Lilac musk, sandalwood, sweet pea, watermelon accord, pale woods, elemi, and oakmoss. Victoria - Graceful vanilla musk, tea rose, and stargazer lily. Ivanushka - Soft, velvety fur and warm musk, brushed by forest woods and dusted by dry leaves. Queen Alice - Carnation, posies, and white amber with a hint of inky treacle, sandy cider, and wooly wine. Cordelia - Lilac, lemon, green tea, wisteria, osmanthus, white cedar, and Chinese musk. Juliet - Sweet pea with stargazer lily, calla lily, heliotrope, honeysuckle, white musk and a touch of fresh pear. Tamora - Amber, heliotrope, golden sandalwood, peach blossom and vanilla bean. Titania - A nocturnal bounty of fae dew-kissed petals and pale fruits: white grape, white peach, iced pear, musk rose, sweet pea, moonflower and snapdragon. Glasgow - The rich scent of wild blackberry breezing over gentle rosy heather. Moscow - A rich, bold blend of imperial rose, carnation, lush jasmine, lily of the valley, dark musk, amber, bergamot and gilded tangerine.

I feel like soft, sweet, foody blends will work for you... something about your caring/honest personality and sensitivity. You're a fellow lit lover too, so I have to list some book-inspired blends! Roses, Pearls and Diamonds - Red roses, dazzling crystalline musks, and pearlescent coconut-tinged orris. Good - Shimmering celestial musk with vanilla, white honey, acacia, and sugar cane. Dorian - A Victorian fougere with three pale musks and dark, sugared vanilla tea. Lyonesse - Golden vanilla and gilded musk, stargazer lily, white sandalwood, grey amber, elemi, orris root, ambergris and sea moss. Mouse Circus - A toodle oodle of pink cotton candy noses, vanilla spun sugar fur, scattered kernels of popcorn, and a touch of polished golden wood. Velvet - Gentle sandalwood warmed by cocoa vanilla and a veil of deep myrrh. How Doth the Little Crocodile - Chocolate peppermint, mint-soaked vanilla, pistachio, oakmoss, and green cedar. Titania - A nocturnal bounty of fae dew-kissed petals and pale fruits: white grape, white peach, iced pear, musk rose, sweet pea, moonflower and snapdragon. Vasilissa - Creamy skin musk and blushing pink musk with soft sandalwood, white amber, dutiful myrrh, and star jasmine. Viola - Gentle tea rose, lilac, Calla Lily, and Somalian Rose layered over golden Peruvian amber, Spanish moss, red sandalwood, rosewood, and myrrh, with the lightest touch of Mandarin. Limited editions that you should be able to find samples or bottles of on the forum: Delight and Consternation - Bourbon vanilla, custard accord, white rose, cocoa absolute, oudh, lemon blossom, and skin musk. Very Pink Surprise Cake - This perfume captures the ridiculously pink scent of a ridiculously pink cake. All Souls - An incense blend that invokes the higher qualities of mercy and compassion, mingled with the soft, sugared currant scent of offertory soul cakes. Velvet Nudie - Skin musk and flowering sugar cane.

The Lab and Post's snow note has not been working on me lately. It's weird because Go to Sleep, Darlings is one of my favorites, but I'm thinking it must be the exception rather than the rule. This is the 3rd blend with snow that's gone wonky on me lately. FS does start out great - I get rich, lickable honey, a bit of warm hay and a delicate chestnut note that makes everything very cuddly. But unfortunately the longer this sits, the more I get "snow turned plastic" and it overwhelms everything else. I'm going to have to avoid it in the future.

Sadly, this smells like generic musk and hair spray to me. I know the Lab's "metallic" notes can be ozone-y, but this just goes way too far. All I get is vaguely berry-scented chemicals and plastic... not at all what I was hoping for. I'd love something with the notes listed that's richer and more natural while doing away with the headache-inducing ozone.

Nooo, why is this lemon mint on me? Sandalwood and vanilla are two of my favorite notes, so I thought this would be a nice, frosty take on them... Instead literally all I'm getting is cool mint. I'm familiar with the Lab/Post's snow note and usually the intense minty, ozone-y facet fades away or at least calms down as the blend develops, but it isn't happening here. I'm in the same boat as VioletChaos and others - just frost, forever. The nice drydown some are getting never makes an appearance on my skin. Bummer!

Sexxxxyyyy. Not being more coherent yet because this is freakin' delicious. Okay. Deep (sweet-smelling) breaths. Bitter but juicy orange peel with super woodsy patchouli. Like the same "eyes roll in the back of your head" seductive and dark patch that's in La Mano del Destino (probably because it's paired with tobacco, too). This is pretty much ALL about the orange and patch to me, but if I really concentrate I can find some musk adding to the full, rich quality of this blend. Then finally I can pick out the amber which is strangely but wondrously sweet, spicy and fierce. Even pulsating, fiery. It's good. So good. You know the picture used for the retail blend, Lucifer? This one? Well, I was sadly let down with Lucifer. It was a shame because I adore that piece of art and based on the notes - vetiver, patch, amber - it should've been awesome. But alas, all I got was muddled sweetness in a lifeless forest. Nothing really stood out and it felt surprisingly bland. But this. THIS is something. It's intense, creamy, spicy, woodsy. I feel both heat and cold, passion and power. This might not be the complete Franz von Stuck painting, but I'll be damned if it isn't Lucifer's entrancing, orange-gold gaze rimmed with darkness. I'm so tempted to get more of this, but I feel like I'm already hoarding too many orange/dark woods blends (Nefarious Plan, Satan & Death w/ Sin, Eastern Comma, Kagema, so shameful stopping now...) It's clearly a known weakness of mine, but I don't know. When this is fully dry (30 min+) I do lose out on a lot of the... aggression? The patch isn't "WOODS&BARK&FOREST" but just "some woodsiness" and the orange isn't "BITTERORANGEPEEL" but "kinda' sweet orange." I'm thinking I might be able to keep it in that stage if I use it in my diffuser, though, and my home will smell like sexy woods and angsty fallen angels if that's the case. Definitely worth a shot, so "more" it is!