Invidiana

THE SEEKIMCacao absolute, hay, black pepper, patchouli, and incense ash. This is unusually yummy. You'd think these notes would be discordant, but everything just ties in so well. The cacao absolute and patchouli are the main players on my skin, both thick and deep and and lovely. It's like that Schwarzer Mond-type patchouli covered in bittersweet chocolate. Supporting this dusky deliciousness is just a hint of black pepper which gives it a bit of extra zing but doesn't go so far to be a piercing sneezeworthy pepper like Ebeneezer Scrooge. They hay note adds a certain cozy autumnal warmth which actually blends very smoothly with the other elements, and there is also some sweet resiny incense at the finish. I almost didn't chance this one because of the pepper, but so glad I did!

I had high hopes for this one because I love the name Xenia which in Greek means "stranger". It was a bit difficult to discern as it settled. It started off with what I'm taking to be a strong black tea note, but dried down to something of a sheer lemony anise. I feel that there is something light and earthy in the background, which I'm guessing is a black tea with a very slight smokiness. It can't be green tea because my skin turns that to Attack of the Lemon Death. There is a moderate sweetness there as well. Overall this reminds me of a cup of licorice tea with a squeeze of lemon and a cube of sugar. It's oddly refreshing though not really my thing.

Dorian in the Pumpkin Patch There's all manner of shenanigans in this year's pumpkin patch! Pumpkin'ized hybrids of GC BPAL scents abound! Of course, first thing I thought when the update went live and I saw this: Puddin' in the pumpkin patch. References aside, who knew Dorian would go so well with pumpkin? Then again, pumpkin is a natural with tea. Take your favorite pumpkin tea, make it that much better than you could imagine and you've got this. It's all pumpkin wet, and then Dorian quickly comes through until they balance each other harmoniously on the drydown. The pumpkin is that same delicious baked pumpkin note I recognize from Theme in Yellow, dusted with just enough spice. The spice here really plays well with the rest of the blend, doesn't even amp on me and I can amp spice something fierce. It's warm, creamy pumpkin steeped in the aromatic vanilla tea of Dorian, with a hint of Dorian's characteristic fougere swirling in the background. Need I say more?

The Lake of Hate: blood musk, pink pepper, and neroli boiling in a seething mire of saffron. This had me at "blood musk", and as a big fan of Beth's blood accord, it lives up to any and all evil, sultry, blood-soaked expectations I had for it. It's basically the love child of Blood (GC) and Oceans of Love and Millions of Kisses bath oil. It has that ridiculously sexy blood note entwined with come-hither musk (there has to be red musk in here somewhere), but it's also so much more than that. Neroli gives it a heady, almost honeyed feel that receives a sensual warmth and flame from the saffron. If I hadn't known there was no honey note in this, I would have guessed there was. It's a scent that burns with two colors of fire. Whereas the blood musk and slight bite of pink pepper give this moon its red fury, the neroli and saffron swirl the Lake of Hate with molten gold. Seething and boiling indeed, but in a really good way.

MENACING IONOSPHERIC RESEARCH INSTRUMENT Bright, gleaming weapons Are housed out in broad daylight Squishing my brain waves. The HAARP research facility in Alaska houses top secret weaponry that is utilized to down aircraft and trigger massive power outages, for meteorological manipulation, and to instigate "natural" disasters. The power housed at HAARP can be used to control minds and produce effects in humans that are indistinguishable from Chronic Fatigue Syndrome and Gulf War Syndrome. Electrically charged white amber, violet, sage, mint, and neroli flanked by dazzling metals and shining wires. This starts out as a very sharp herbal metallic mint and pretty much stays that way through the drydown. I was hoping the white amber and violet would be able to save they day but they weren't able to do me any favors this time. They were both just completely overpowered by mint and sage and something very similar to the "electrical fire" note I described in Aurora Spacesihp Takes a Dive but with more of an electrical/ozoney rather than a burning feel. It does indeed evoke "dazzling metals and shining wires" , but the olfactory "shine" is so bright, at least on my skin, that it's almost blinding, much like Volt but without the leather and less masculine. As it dries down further, it settles into metal/ozone, mint and sage, in that order. I imagine it would be a brilliant scent for people who really like those blends that have you wide awake in half a second, but it's just not for me personally.

Being Greek of course I had to get a perfume named Clytemnestra. This definitely doesn't disappoint; it's a shadowy, scent worthy of its namesake. There is rose in here, but it's a dark, velvety rose that is soft and subtle, no dry screeching rose that makes me sneeze. It could possibly be white rose too, which I may have interprted as dark because of the other dark florals. The rose really just lays a backdrop for other dark and exotic florals--to my nose it seems like tuberose and a dark type or orchid though I could be wrong. There may even be a hint of violet. These are really the stars of the scent along with a bit of dark fruit that I'm taking to be blackcurrant, maybe even a hint of plum; there is definitely a "purple" feel here but it's more like a purple-tinged twilight rather than a juicy/fruity purple. It actually reminds me of Autumn and Winter without the cold/fallen leaves elements with the gauzy, enigmatic quality of Kataskopia that I adore.

I really, really wanted to love this because--ectoplasm! Ghostbusters! Unfortunately my skin doesn't let me because it amps all lemon verbena, all the time. My best guess, taking my body chemistry aside, is that this is related to Embalming Fluid with that lemony, slightly green finish but much stronger. I think, that under all the lemon verbena being amped, there is white musk somewhere in here. I'm also wondering whether it's only lemon verbena I'm amping or also elemi, because there is a slightly bitter undertone here that I often get from elemi which strangely mimics real-life lemon peel, but doesn't show up on me that way from lemon peel notes in a blend. There is also something slightly sweet countering that--not vanilla, my best guess would be either some sort of sugar note or the sweetness of a resin. I appreciate how Beth tried to capture that eerie yellow-green color we often associate with ectoplasm in a bottle, but my skin just can't cooperate enough to pick out all the facets of the scent. *This was part of a set of protos all titled "seance"-something out for testing at NYCC. Not sure what collection this belongs to--mods, please go ahead and add it if you know!

CONEY ISLAND CREEK The scent of silty, thick water, mud flats, and rusted ancient shipwrecks. This actually doesn't smell muddy and swampy at all but like a fresh green aquatic with a good dose of salty sea air. It's not really for me but I can appreciate how it sticks to the inspiration without actually smelling like mud and rust. If you like sea breeze type scents you will love this one.

THE ARBOR He seems to be a god, that man Facing you, who leans to be close, Smiles, and, alert and glad, listens To your mellow voice And quickens in love at your laughter That stings my breasts, jolts my heart If I dare the shock of a glance. I cannot speak, My tongue sticks to my dry mouth, Thin fire spreads beneath my skin, My eyes cannot see and my aching ears Roar in their labyrinths. Chill sweat glides down my back, I shake, I turn greener than grass. I am neither living nor dead and cry From the narrow between. (Sappho, translation by Guy Davenport) Shuddering, thundering, passionate: red musk, East African red patchouli, tonka bean, white gardenia, black narcissus, champaca flower, Roman chamomile, and massoia bark. This throbs with passion like the poem: the initial thunderclap of red musk remains prominent throughout, but as it dries down it allows the beauty of the other elements to shine. The floral element here holds its own, with the shadows of black narcissus counterbalanced by the lovely humid exotic feel lent to it by the white gardenia and champaca flower, all shot through with a vein of sensuous red patchouli. The tonka and massoia bark make for a warm, slightly sweet and slightly woody undertone. I don't really amp chamomile, so it isn't that prominent on my skin; it's probably intermingling with the florals. Red musk lovers, you cannot miss this one. Cannot.

An eccentric genius and leader of the superhero team The Paradigm, Qubit can meld and shape technology with a gesture, allowing him to create whatever he can envision. Gleaming metal, electrical discharge, and a whiff of tinny cologne. I knew this wasn't going to be my thing personally, but I'm always up for trying things, especially when they're right in front of me on the Lab table. It's very much like a bracing burst of fresh air at first sniff. There is definitely lots of ozone, to the point that I actually feel there's a sharp crisp wind hitting the tip of my nose. It definitely is the metallic scent the description states, though metallics usually don't come out very "metallic" per se on my skin but either ozoney or incensey, and this was the first one. As it dries down further I get the hint of cologne, which is the fresh and aquatic type. I'm not exactly sure what comprises the "electrical discharge" but there seems to be a kick in it somewhere--not pungent or unpleasant, just a sort of olfactory spark that sets your senses awake. I would say it's pretty unisex. Not really for me, but glad I got to try it; I can imagine I'd enjoy smelling it on a boyfriend when said boyfriend actually materializes.

When I first smelled this I immediately thought leather, paper and ink--which I was dead on about--but there was something else, something sinister int he background that I just couldn't figure out. I didn't have a list of notes in front of me at the time but actually reading them for the first time, I see what it is that I had a hard time putting my finger on. It was the ghostly chill. Kind of like Beth's snow note, but more....evil, if you will. I love anything that smells like old books, especially haunted old books, so this is right up my dark and twisted alley.

THE PATH OF DREAMSAlthough I come to you constantly over the roads of dreams, those nights of love are not worth one waking touch of you. Wisteria, ti, peach tree leaf, osmanthus, hinoki wood, bergamot, night-blooming jasmine, and ume blossoms. (Ono No Komachi. Translation by Kenneth Rexroth.) Oh yes, this is a cousin to my beloved Sakura. Lots and lots of dreamy wisteria to send you floating off to dreamland, backed up by a bit of jasmine that doesn't turn into cat pee because it doesn't have to contend with my chemistry this time, just my sheets. The jasmine reminds me of the perfumed night air in Greece where jasmine grows wild. I smell predominantly smell wisteria and jasmine, though they must be there because I do sense other florals I'm not identifying right now. The bergamot stays nice and subdued; just the slightest hint is evident, not overpowering bitter bergamot. There is also really soft woody undertone from the hinoki wood which balances out the florals perfectly. Overall this is an ethereal, otherworldly scent and absolutely lovely.

MR. FEZZIWIG'S BALL "Yo ho, my boys!" said Fezziwig. "No more work to-night. Christmas Eve, Dick. Christmas, Ebenezer! Let's have the shutters up," cried old Fezziwig, with a sharp clap of his hands, "before a man can say Jack Robinson!" You wouldn't believe how those two fellows went at it! They charged into the street with the shutters-one, two, three-had 'em up in their places-four, five, six-barred 'em and pinned 'em-seven, eight, nine-and came back before you could have got to twelve, panting like race-horses. "Hilli-ho!" cried old Fezziwig, skipping down from the high desk, with wonderful agility. "Clear away, my lads, and let's have lots of room here! Hilli-ho, Dick! Chirrup, Ebenezer!" Clear away! There was nothing they wouldn't have cleared away, or couldn't have cleared away, with old Fezziwig looking on. It was done in a minute. Every movable was packed off, as if it were dismissed from public life for evermore; the floor was swept and watered, the lamps were trimmed, fuel was heaped upon the fire; and the warehouse was as snug, and warm, and dry, and bright a ball-room, as you would desire to see upon a winter's night. In came a fiddler with a music-book, and went up to the lofty desk, and made an orchestra of it, and tuned like fifty stomach-aches. In came Mrs. Fezziwig, one vast substantial smile. In came the three Miss Fezziwigs, beaming and lovable. In came the six young followers whose hearts they broke. In came all the young men and women employed in the business. In came the housemaid, with her cousin, the baker. In came the cook, with her brother's particular friend, the milkman. In came the boy from over the way, who was suspected of not having board enough from his master; trying to hide himself behind the girl from next door but one, who was proved to have had her ears pulled by her mistress. In they all came, one after another; some shyly, some boldly, some gracefully, some awkwardly, some pushing, some pulling; in they all came, anyhow and everyhow. Away they all went, twenty couple at once; hands half round and back again the other way; down the middle and up again; round and round in various stages of affectionate grouping; old top couple always turning up in the wrong place; new top couple starting off again, as soon as they got there; all top couples at last, and not a bottom one to help them! When this result was brought about, old Fezziwig, clapping his hands to stop the dance, cried out, "Well done!" and the fiddler plunged his hot face into a pot of porter, especially provided for that purpose. But scorning rest, upon his reappearance, he instantly began again, though there were no dancers yet, as if the other fiddler had been carried home, exhausted, on a shutter, and he were a bran-new man resolved to beat him out of sight, or perish. There were more dances, and there were forfeits, and more dances, and there was cake, and there was negus, and there was a great piece of Cold Roast, and there was a great piece of Cold Boiled, and there were mince-pies, and plenty of beer. But the great effect of the evening came after the Roast and Boiled, when the fiddler (an artful dog, mind! The sort of man who knew his business better than you or I could have told it him!) struck up "Sir Roger de Coverley." Then old Fezziwig stood out to dance with Mrs. Fezziwig. Top couple, too; with a good stiff piece of work cut out for them; three or four and twenty pair of partners; people who were not to be trifled with; people who would dance, and had no notion of walking. But if they had been twice as many-ah, four times-old Fezziwig would have been a match for them, and so would Mrs. Fezziwig. As to her, she was worthy to be his partner in every sense of the term. If that's not high praise, tell me higher, and I'll use it. A positive light appeared to issue from Fezziwig's calves. They shone in every part of the dance like moons. You couldn't have predicted, at any given time, what would have become of them next. And when old Fezziwig and Mrs. Fezziwig had gone all through the dance; advance and retire, both hands to your partner, bow and curtsey, corkscrew, thread-the-needle, and back again to your place; Fezziwig "cut"-cut so deftly, that he appeared to wink with his legs, and came upon his feet again without a stagger. Mince pie, dark beer, a well-loved spruce wood fiddle, and bow resin. This is really an awesome holiday scent that's festive but far from typical. It's actually not a strongly woody and sweeter than I initially expected. THe woo di there, but it plays well with the other elements, and at the forefront is this lovely sweet sticky resinous scent that isn't exactly foody per se but still deliciously addictive. The wood is a piney scent which gives it a seasonal feel but again while it fits the spirit of the season perfectly it's far from the stereotypical "holiday candle" scent, and I adore it. I have the perfume oil coming to me from a swap and now I'm even more excited!

I love the juxtaposition of cold snow and smoldering woodsmoke notes here. It's not masculine at all, but rather cool and fresh with a smoky undertone that reminds me of walking outside in the winter and breathing in air that smells of fireplaces and impending snow. Putting my synaesthesia to use here, it also does smell "gray" if that makes any sense at all. There might be some cool musks at play here to contribute to that. This morning it was gray and snowing, so I couldn't have picked a better scent to wear.

Wow. This does something really magical on me. Honey isn't listed as one of the notes but it smells honeyed--must be the wine. I love how the wheat and grain notes are just bordering on the edge of foody but not dessert per se. They're warm, comforting and golden, just like wheat and grains that had been soaked in an autumn sun. Sometimes pear notes get too sweet on my skin but not here. The pear adds just enough sweetness but never grows cloying. Did I mention it lasts for ages? I am completely in love.

Black currant, black orchid, lavender, black dammar, myrrh, oakmoss, champaca flower, and mandrake root. This calls to mind a Smashing Pumpkins song of the same name that is very near and dear to me (well it's actually Behold! The Nightmare! but close enough), because they both have the same dreamlike quality. I must admit that at first I didn't know what to make of it; the lavender was trying to hold its own, the other notes all seemed to be sparring for dominance and there was a an underlying sharp edge, I believe from the mandrake root. However, this changes entirely after a couple of minutes. The lavender softens, supported by the depth of blackcurrant, and the most gorgeous, slightly (but pleasantly) powdery melange of champaca flower and orchid on a soft bed of oakmoss comes through. I think the type of myrrh used here is also contributing to that dreamy powdery feel. The champaca and orchid also have that heady sensuality that makes it impossible to associate this with a childlike dream involving glitter and rainbows. It is potent, mysterious and hypnotic, almost opiate. If you took an innocent, almost "baby" scent and tinted it with shadows, that's what this is--a perfect evocation of corrupted dreams.

I'm head over heels for this beaver! It's like the most luscious lemony cheesecake on the planet, and I do love me some lemon cheesecake. The cheesecake note is rich, creamy and vanillaed with the lemon giving it the right amount of tang to balance the sweetness. I used to be terrified of pear because it can sometimes go saccharine on me, but not here. The pear note, if anything, adds more interest and complexity and gives it a more autumnal feel than just lemon alone. I don't amp thyme, so I can't say that it's really prominent on me, but it's probably a contributing factor in rounding it out. This making me wonder if a similar (edible) cheesecake recipe would taste as good as this smells!

All Souls'! The minging of incense and cake is positively addictive. Dia De Los Muertos is more on the floral side, but in the sense that the flowers are resting on a cloud of sweet incense.

To add to that, while all the Lunacies don't share one particular note, it often happens that Lunacies with the same theme from different years often have shared notes. For example, you'll find shared notes in most of the Blue Moon and Blood Moon blends. However, sometimes one with the same name and theme as a previous Lunacy may go for a complete turnaround too. For example, the very first Harvest Moon had more traditional fall notes like pear and spice, but his year's had dry leaves and rose.

If I knew I had five minutes left to live this is exactly the sort of ridiculous thing I'd be stuffing myself with. Wet I initially get a blast of almond, and then the pumpkin comes through pretty quickly in the drydown. I like the booziness of it, which initially comes off strong but softens in the drydown. It does retain a certain boozy undertone throughout which I find kind of addictive. The blending of that with the clouds of vanilla buttercream is just pure ecstasy. I'm glad that the spice here is very subtle, just a warming accent and nothing that amps to the point of killing the other notes. Really, really tempted to lick it off.

This is really delicious. It's all orange cake wet, and then as it dries down it becomes smooth and creamy with the custard coming through. I actually only get the faintest hint of anise with this, which is good, because I was hoping it would be subtle. Surprisingly the hints of floral notes that make themselves known in the very end actually work with the rest of the notes. I was a little leery of them at first but the give a soft finish to the cake, orange and vanilla custard notes. I've never eaten actual huesos de santo but not I want to try them!

This one was very, very vegetal. Initially I got a blast of green vines and earth, then some pumpkin comes to the surface as it dries down. The pumpkin here really isn't a foody pumpkin, but more of closer to fresh pumpkin guts. The green notes still remain the dominant element throughout. Not for me personally, but it really is very true to what an actual pumpkin patch smells like up close and personal.

I'm a neroli fan, so this one really delivered. I love how the juicy peach note, which has that hint of tartness to balance the sweetness(never cloying throughout the drydown), is balanced by the creamy, slightly citrusy neroli. Those two the notes that burst onto the scene initially, but after a minute or two of drying down a light, sweet honey and sheer white tea beautifully come into play. I think this one has put my fears of white peach turning saccharine on my skin to rest.

Holy--give me a moment to breathe here. This smells like my peach trees. Yes, I do live in New Jersey and have peach trees but that's besides the point. Take the scent of sun-warmed grass and flowers carried on fresh air, combine it with subtle wood and fragrant, fresh-picked peaches (more like smelling a the skin of peach that hasn't been cut open). In other words this is basically the bottled version of a fully laden peach tree in early September. I can't get over how realistic it is!

White peach normally scare me because my skin can turn it saccharine, but as a hair gloss it's a different story. The white peach note is gentle and even a bit tart, which I love, and supported by a sheer white incense. This is not an incense to be afraid of; it's very light and supports the peach perfectly. What really makes this for me, though, its the interaction of the champaca flower with the other two notes. The heady (but not heavy), sensual quality it adds is really divine. I wore this paired with Peach I today and the combo was just amazing.