Floria

I don't know if this would work on your skin, since Kabuki didn't, but you might want to look for fruit/musk combinations (at least if you like musk and fruit.) In my experience, musk tends to strengthen fruity notes and push them to the foreground (both Bewitched and Lampades were very berry on me), and conventional perfume wisdom says that musks are base notes and shouldn't evaporate quickly.

Phoenix at Dawn has a very nice citrusy sparkle to my nose, like a fancy lightly carbonated lemonade.

If you can wear amber, Helena from the Shakespeare collection might be your thing. I haven't tried it, but "Rose amber, calla lily, night-blooming jasmine, water lily, and white rose" sounds like it could be old fashioned and romantic. Maiden (carnation, rose, white tea) might be good, depending on how your skin reacts to it - on me, it has a very delicate, fragile beauty in the imp, but my skin amplifies the rose and the spice of the carnation..

This is a bit of an odd scent on me, although I don't dislike it. I mostly get a sort of spicy rosewood out of it - the leather isn't obvious, but some leathers (like the ones in Rogue and Possets' The Girls Love Leather) go a bit spicy on me, so it might have been blending with the woods. The tonka's detectable underneath and separate from the spicy wood melange that is the main body of the scent - it doesn't go "off" on me, but something about it in this context reminded me of coconut milk or hand lotion, which is an effect I'm not sure I like. It has very good lasting power. The scent's definitely on the masculine side of androgynous, but in a gentlemanly way, and it's not too heavy or cologne-like for me to feel comfortable wearing.

It probably won't smell exactly the same, but Hunger from Ars Amatoria might be a good complement. It has vanilla and orange blossom, and a few of the reviewers got a chocolatey vibe as well. ETA: And The Great Sword of War has mandarin, tonka, and cocoa, although the overall scent profile looks like it'd be rather less sweet than you're looking for.

For those who've tried both - is Croquet much like The Phoenix At Dawn?

It probably won't smell exactly the same, but Hunger from Ars Amatoria might be a good complement. It has vanilla and orange blossom, and a few of the reviewers got a chocolatey vibe as well.

This one's interesting. I see how it could be very dependent on skin chemistry, because even on me, the backs vs. insides of my wrists amplified different parts of the scent. The rosemary has the most throw, and at least on me was pretty strong, although it's also the first to fade. The rosemary's interesting and assertive, but when combined with the sweetish undertone from the orange blossom, slightly medicinal. Not in a way that brought back any unpleasant associations of the "urgh, cough syrup" variety for me, but I thought it was worth mentioning. This might be a scent to keep in mind if you're dressing up as a medieval herbalist. After the rosemary has time to come out (it's not super strong immediately after application) it goes through a period of dramatic throw - which made the room in which I first applied it smell like Italian food for a while. Because of the strong herbal component, I'd classify this as a potential unisex scent, depending on how your skin treats it. The floral dry-down is quite a bit sweeter, but also sticks close to the skin. ETA: Retesting one year later: Before I start, keep in mind that two of the three main ingredients have a history of being unreliable on me. Despite this, this wasn't wholly bad. The early stages of this were oddly unisex, almost cologny. Neither of the florals really register as sweet at this stage, since orange blossom always takes time to sweeten up on me and this is the sharp kind of rose. I like the rosemary (which, oddly, my mom's nose registered as patchouli incense), but unfortunately, it's the first aspect to burn off. While the drydown sadly lacks rosemary, at least by this point the orange blossom has mellowed a bit and acquired some sweetness. It's an odd scent, but I'm not too disappointed, as I mostly bought the imp for historical interest.

It's a BPAL rose blend that works on me! Possibly because it's mostly carnation. It's delicately beautiful, damp, and springlike in the imp, but loses some of that dewy quality on my skin and gets spicier. However, I didn't encounter the harshness I sometimes get with BPAL roses, and I am fond of dianthus, so I'm happy.

For once, my tendency to amp red musk works in my favor! I don't always have the best luck with BPAL roses if they're the dominant force in a blend, and the rose in this did get a little soapy and high-pitched on first application, although the musk and amber softened it a bit. However, after it had some time to mellow on my skin and the rose retreated a bit, it was lovely.

A few of the reviews described Aperotos Eros as having an "Indian temple incense" aspect. It's exotic incense + musk + evergreen, and might be worth checking out if you want a change from sandalwood and spices.

I have a couple of Spring scents in my upcoming order - Pink Moon and Lady In Speckled Pink Kimono. Out of my current collection, there's The Dormouse, Titania, Hermia, Ladon (because of the apple blossom and hyacinth), Faith (violets and Easter candy), and La Bella Donna Della Mia Mente. Amsterdam would be a wonderful spring scent if my nose and skin liked it.

I've tried both Marquise de Merteuil and Ladon, and both of them were notably fruity on me (peach and apple, respectively). This probably depends on body chemistry. Brisingamen is a lovely amber with floral elements and just a bit of herbal sharpness from the myrtle.

My skin, I have learned through recent experience, loves red musk, so Fenris Wolf, on me, is rather reminiscent of Scherezade and fresh Snake Oil. I hope a little aging will amp the woods, because I love me some rosewood and sandalwood combined with anything rosy, but as it is now, this is the Red Musk Show with a supporting ensemble. My mom thought it smelled like a "snappy dame," and I can definitely picture the female lead in a Howard Hawks movie smelling like this.

This is an interesting scent. I'm not entirely sure it's something I want to smell like, but there's something intriguing about it. The mint is very bright and sharp, not a foody mint to my nose at all, and vaguely chemical in a not unpleasant way - it makes me think of SCIENCE. It's overlaying something a bit seawatery that reminds me a bit of Cthulhu, although I much prefer Cathode's sinus-clearing mint to Cthulhu's sinus-clearing men's grooming product aquatic. Oddly enough, my mom's experience of the scent was much different. She got something she described as old-fashioned and a bit sandalwood-ish and didn't mention noticing any mint. Maybe that was the moss and ambergris working together? I'd say this is a good unisex summer scent for mad scientists and steampunk gadgeteers if nothing in the Steamworks section suits you.

I wanted to like this, but something in the combination of ingredients + my skin + my nose did not work. It smelled like it had gone off, somehow. It was a swapped imp, and I've heard that citrus oils don't have a long shelf life by perfume standards, so that might have been the problem - or it might have been my skin's erratic reaction to rose (Harlot works, Whip doesn't, Hymn goes a bit soapy but in a good way) combined with the apple and the citrus.

What exactly are you looking for?

There's something about this that reminds me of Easter candy, if Easter candy came in violet flavor, or maybe the "Silver" perfumes from Possets. It's definitely a sweet scent, but not a syrupy sweetness, so it's not overwhelming. I like this, and I'm glad I had a chance to try it, but I think that overall I prefer the greater complexity of Sybaris.

Are the various Chinese New Year scents anything like Shoggoth?

Schrodinger's Cat and How Doth The Little Crocodile both have chocolate peppermint mixed with several other ingredients (SC is citrusy and HDTLC is chocolatey-woody), and aren't overwhelmingly mentholic.

Oberon from the Illyria collection has orchid and juniper.

It's a perfectly pleasant smell, creamy and light but with decent staying power, but I confess to being just a bit disappointed. It's a lot like Dana O'Shee to my nose - not identical, but the main creamy note is very similar - and I already own a big bottle of DO'S.

Is The Doom of Beauty much like Catherine or Bess? They all seem, from the note lists, to be members of the Hungary Water family.

This is a cool, slinky sort of scent. I can see wearing it with black silk or white satin, at night. In the imp and just applied, it's slightly bitter and a bit commercial-smelling for me, although fortunately it lacks the rubbing-alcohol aspect. The chilly quality of the musks does make it a little more interesting, however. After a while on skin, it sweetens up a bit and becomes more pleasant to my nose, although not quite as cool and enigmatic. There is a bit of night air quality to the scent at all stages that suits the subject. Overall, not quite my usual style, but interesting. It makes me wish I went to more sophisticated soirees so I'd have some place to properly wear this, and now I know I can wear white musk.

Straight out of the imp, this is rather perfumey in a not entirely pleasant way, although it quickly mellows on my skin. I get mostly apple blossom and something sharp that must be the myrtle, mellowed a little by the underlying amber. Not much carnation, which is a pity, since I like it. The amber isn't very strong, but at least it isn't Doom Powder. Despite the description, this is more of a cool scent than a warm one to me. I mostly bought this to see how my skin works with amber-heavy scents, but I do like it.