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I'm on a journey to Japan at the moment and have unfortunately had some leakage, even though I've not yet made the international portion of the trip. I think the wandcaps maybe don't seal as tightly... I lost a 1/4 bottle of Leather Phoenix (it was only a half bottle to begin with...) and it got the labels of several of my other bottles goopy enough that they have fallen off, competely saturated with oil. Hopefully upon arrival I can attempt repairs. I've mopped up as best as I could (I had 6 5mls per sandwich baggie, so the damage was more limited than it could have been, but still disappointing). The bath oils and atmos are harder to manage; I taped them up as well as I could with limited supplies, and double bagged. Two of the BO's leaked enough to be quite messy inside the bags, and an atmo or two dripped a bit. At least my suitcase and everything in it smells amazing, and my hotel room is absolutely infused with Leather Phoenix!! ETA: I am moving my entire stash of 30+ bottles, 50ish imps, 3 or 4 each of bath oils and atmos.

I agree that Paladin is definitely one worth trying, if you like Dorian. Maybe Kill-Devil (Sugar cane, molasses, oak wood, and honey.) too, it reminded me of a darker, dirtier Dorian. A couple others I have enjoyed that lean masculine with a sweet/spicy edge: No. 93 EngineBalm of Gilead, benzoin, frankincense, balsam of peru, beeswax, saffron, galbanum, calamus, hyssop, mastic, lemon balm, and white sage. (May be too warm from what you said, but you never know) Dragon's HideFlame-kissed, warm, smooth, and highly protective. Dragon’s blood, leather and a hint of smoke. GnomeAn explosive blend of effervescent golden ginger and black peppercorn with sarsaparilla, gurjum balsam, nutmeg, gear lubricant, and smoke. ChaoticA whirling mélange of multicolored musks with wasabi, rooibos, heliotrope, and mastic. or perhaps one of these (though you'd have to track down decants on-forum, as the lab doesn't do imps of them) WitchbladeAntediluvian, sacred metal, glowing red musk, blessed frankincense, and antiqued amber. White PeacockTeak, ebony wood, osmanthus, patchouli, red sandalwood, vanilla orchid, tonka bean, tobacco, wild musk, spikenard, and sugandh kokila.

In bottle: Dark and a little boozy chocolate. Sticky sweet! Wet: I don't recognize the front note; it must be quince. Fruity and decadent, with fig and pear not far behind. Dry: Vanilla, with a balmy aura of fruits. Simple, yet pleasing. Verdict: I expected the chocolate to be more prominent, but I think the fruit pairs together really well.

In bottle: Earthy, dusty & green. Something slightly fibrous and rooty around the edges. Wet: Immediately after application, the dirt note becomes very clean and plush. A surprising floral note emerges - a bit waxy and sweet. Tulip maybe? Iris? Whatever it is, it is familiar but I can't say for sure. Dry: The more it settles, the more I suspect iris/orris is the mysterious front note. There is the barest hint of dry, subterranean earthiness lingering beneath, offset by a saccharine luminescence - like powdered sugar. I think there must be amber- make that lots of amber!- in this blend as well - after a while it begins to remind me of a sweeter, cooler version of Ozymandias. Verdict: Watching Fraggle Rock, I always wanted to pet the Doozers because they looked so velvety and plushy. Their little piles of fluffy crystal dust and sparkling towers were so pretty. This blend encapsulates their essence perfectly. It's significantly different than I expected from the notes - but in a good way! A pale, innocent green amber with a quality of earthiness that is beautifully clean.

In bottle: Plush brown leather, austere but not intimidating. A soft curl of pipesmoke and glowing firewood, with a drop of sweet brandy. Wet: The smoke and leather intensify for a moment, before giving way to the brandy much more than anticipated. It smells like a perfect black cherry, just this side of being too ripe, when the skin still gives without breaking. Not too sweet, and surprisingly not boozy. Dry: A smooth blend of hazy cherry and warm leather. Verdict: Divinely comforting and rich, top notch indeed.

In bottle: Coniferous, herbal and dusty. Wet: Velvet tobacco, with a hint of beeswax. Dry: Worn leather, polished and imbued with an aura of voodoo. Verdict: A bit too dry and woodsy for my taste, but wonderful just the same. Your crazy Creole grandmother's house smells like this. Comforting, but with a touch of black magic.

In vial: Sharp, ozonic, nose-singeing chemical-laden leather. Strong is an understatement. Tones of faint coffee on the side. Wet: The leather seems much more like rawhide at this point - stiff, dry and new. It is quite overwhelming and I only dabbed a bit on one arm! Dry: Once the leather gets worn in, it changes the blend completely. Warm, sugary suede with a hint of creamy nuttiness. Simple & pleasant, with just a touch of cool spice. Verdict: I don't drink coffee and it doesn't work well on my skin, so I am glad it was all but undetectable. At first I was very surprised at the leather's reaction upon application, but that may be the tobacco which doesn't always sit well with me. In any case, the drydown is beautiful, reminding me of Liz, Lyonesse and others in that vein.

In bottle: Slight whiff of ozone, dark and still. A wisp of hazy grey amber. Wet: The amber intensifies and is joined by champaca, sweet and smoky. There is almost a spark of fruitiness that comes from the white musk & fir needles, I think. It's stunning, really evocative of gazing at the Milky Way on a clear winter night. Dry: It gets even better as the papyrus reeds come out, dry and plush. At moments the throw of this blend reminds me of that smell on your clothes when you've been around a campfire - clean flannel and woodsmoke and snow. Verdict: I really didn't care for Winter Heavens much when I obtained and tested it at the beginning of the year. It's been on my sales post for probably 4 or 5 months now - and while updating that post, I decided to give it another test. How glad I am for that! Age has changed this blend so much for the better. I immediately removed it from my listing and am now on the search for more! It reminds me of a foresty, paler version of Devil's Night - which is one of my absolutely favorite blends.

I agree that Black Moon '11 is a spectacular orchid blend, probably my favorite! You mentioned looking for a smoky earthy orchid, and that describes how Black Moon is on my skin to a T. Other deep, dark orchid blends I like include: Lunar EclipseRed musk, black currant, violet leaf, wild frankincense, lavender, black orchid, Darjeeling tea, vetiver, red moss, myrrh, Moroccan spices, blackened fruit gums, and tobacco. LamiaDeadly elegance: pale orchid, vanilla amber, black currant, white peach, champaca, coconut, Arabian myrrh, Burmese vetiver, and oude. (I see you already know about this blend - but yeah, it's awesome!) I haven't tried the following two (they are discontinued) but if you can track some down it seems like they are in the same vein: Shadow Witch Orchid Orchid tubers have been used extensively by witches in their love philtres, both to promote amorous attention and the attainment of true love, and, conversely, to wither misplaced passions and sever romantic bonds. This perfume is a dusky orchid, subdued and ethereal. Black DahliaVoluptuous magnolias strewn over orchid, star jasmine, black amber and smoky rose.

In bottle: Sort of a sweet, frothy aroma. Slightly herbal. Wet: A tinge of something bitterly green (cognac?), then a wave of dark anise. The foamy aspect is decidedly gone, and a ramped up, hard liquor scent pervades the throw. Dry: As the absinthe fades a bit, the tobacco & lace are there, smoky & creamy. It's similar to the other lace blends, of course. Verdict: I prefer Red Lace's dirty raspberry and Tattered Lace's opium coconut to this blend's boozy brine.

In bottle: Dirty, sugary patchouli and teak. Sugandh kokila (cinnamon berry) adds a bit of spice. Wet: Teak, sanded and grainy. Musky vanilla orchid & shimmering osmanthus begin to emerge, shaded by red sandalwood. Dry: Buzzy tonka and woodsy resinous tobacco, with patchouli reappearing for awhile, then fading away to a skin-close sweet wood scent. Verdict: The teak was a bit heavy for my taste at first, but upon retesting I like it more. I think time will be kind to White Peacock, with so many notes that are known to age well.

In bottle: Iris and blueberry tea, dusky and sweet. Wet: The barest brush of soft lilac, and a burst of warm blueberries and tangy, subdued bergamot. Dry: It doesn't change much from wet to dry, just fades to a soft, creamy haze - and seems almost fleeting, like the condensed sun rays of a late summer afternoon. Verdict: Black Pearl has been my go-to iris blend thus far in my BPAL journey, but Two-Barred Flasher goes positively leagues above and beyond! Supremely satisfying, bright and refreshing without being sharp, lazy and gauzy without being dry or too light. For me, this is the ultimate warm weather blend, an embodiment of ripe blueberries and creamy tea - perfection.

In bottle: Deep, exotic vetiver and orange-laced teak. Wet: Initially there is a strong dark wash of vetiver, but it fades soon enough into a rather impressive citrine glow. Tangerine and satsuma are sweet and sultry, spiced with just a touch of cinnamon. Dry: The licorice peeks out, just a quick flash before slipping into a velvety blend of amber and teak. Very smooth, dangerous and intense. Verdict: Aptly named, Velvet Tiger is powerful, lithe, and shadowed. I am not sure I can pull off such a 'masculine' blend with my skin chemistry, and citrus can be iffy - but I love the idea of this blend.

If you are looking for a deep, dark ginger - give Inextinguishable Hatred from last year's Yules a try: Red ginger and black opoponax with black pepper, stinging neroli, myrrh, and tobacco absolute. I would have NEVER tried it based on the notes but after being frimped a tester I decided to give it a go. It was surprisingly mezmerizing!

In bottle: Greenly resinous. Fresh without being overbearingly herbal - quite gently so, to my nose. The trio of resins (dragon's blood, galbanum & frankincense) are apparent, as is the lavender and peppermint. Seems very smooth, reflective. Wet: Almost immediately the magnolia and sweetgrass temper the resins and herbs, becoming almost creamy. I think bergamot's soft bite adds a luminous feel. Like a bank of plush moonlit fog rolling in on a humid spring night, leaving beads of dew on every leaf and blade of grass it passes. Dry: Slightly more woodsy - the mint is all but gone, and I can't pick out anything specifically at this point other than the magnolia, and a decadent base of rather earthy dragon's blood. Clean earth, sweet & softly spiced. Verdict: Just about my favorite dragon's blood blend I've worn so far. It melds in such an unexpected way with the other notes. Spectacularly moody/atmospheric, yet serene all at once.

In bottle: Incensed sandalwood and patchouli. Earthy, but cleaner than I expected. Wet: Upon application, the matcha adds a lemony greenness that is actually nice - usually any hint of citrus is really bad on me - but it works. I get a bit of spice from the cumin, gentle and warm. Dry: The gardenia peeks through, brilliantly white and creamy. With the green tea and incense elements still strongest, I think I can smell a whiff of fuzzy ti leaf underneath. As it settles into drydown, velvety cedar forms a solid base for the other notes. I can't pick out any vetiver, but I am sure it's there, adding its dark depths somehow. Verdict: Surprisingly, with the warmth this blend evokes, I would still classify it as a spring/summer blend. The matcha pushes it right over the edge into being refreshing, though the sweet, dusty earthiness of the woods would suit it well for autumn or winter wear as well. Imagery that comes to mind when I smell it is a supple rope net, handwoven and newly mended. Rough fibers and sturdy knots, piled on the weathered mat floor of a woodland temple. Cozy, but in a 'fresh breeze' way, vs. the more typical 'fuzzy blanket' way, if that makes any sense!

I haven't smelled either of those Cobalt Blends, but here are a couple suggestions that came to mind. For the first, it sounds like a sweet white floral with a bit of a resinous edge? I'd reccommend: Lamia (Neverwhere)Deadly elegance: pale orchid, vanilla amber, black currant, white peach, champaca, coconut, Arabian myrrh, Burmese vetiver, and oude. La Petite Mort (General Catalogue)The scent of warm, damp skin flushed with the glow of passion, touched by the luxuriant potency of ylang ylang and myrrh. For the second - light, clean, creamy? Green Tree Viper (Carnaval Diabolique)Snake Oil with four mints, bergamot, and green tea. Candles Moon 2012 (Lunacy)Moonlight shining on the Quickening Tree, the heat and wax of sacred candles, the milk of ewes, Brigid's blackberry, the sting of keening wind, and the last flutter of the Cailleach's winter snow. And one that seems like it might be a good compromise between the two: Moonshine and Mist (General Catalogue)Ethereal, otherworldly, delicate: ambergris, white musk, water violet, ylang ylang, magnolia, and white sandalwood. Hope this gives you some ideas! I am sure there are more that would be similar, but it's a start

In bottle: Surprisingly astringent yet airy. No anise to speak of, and only a hint of mango blossom. It's predominantly black tea, leafy and biting. Wet: Becomes quite earthy, bitter & dark. Wolfberry lends an acidic brightness, and the moss seems rather sharp as well. Dry: Smokiness envelops the tea, totally not what I was expecting! As the blend smooths, it's like sitting on moss-covered rocks on the shore surrounded by wisps of smoke from an early morning driftwood bonfire, a cup of hot black tea warming your hands, & a faint waft of tropical blossoms on the salty breeze. There is a hint of luxury to the throw, very high-end. Verdict: This is a unique blend, I don't think I've ever smelled anything similar. It seemed so bitter at first that I really didn't think I'd like it. I'm glad I gave it the chance to bloom. I don't see myself keeping it, as I am being ruthless with what stays in my permanent collection... but this is really lovely, and a tough call to make.

Heady floral, very sugary and girlish. The red musk seems almost candied - maybe the blood orange? Ultimately it's too sweet for me.

In vial: A deeply resinous sweetness, almost fruity, but not quite bright enough to be fruit. Jewel-toned, if that makes sense (this is just my scent impression of color, the oil itself is practically colorless) Cacao and vetiver are next most noticable - something about it reminds me of a lighter, candied version of Santa Muerte - which is one of the few vetiver-heavy scents I really enjoy. This is earthy, but not heavy. Very darkly sensual. In water: I squirted a bit in under the faucet as it filled the tub, and at first didn't think it was very strong. I stepped away to light some candles, and practically whipped around when I got a huge waft of the most delicious vetiver I have ever smelled in my life. And delicious is not an adjective that I associate with vetiver, ever. I don't know if it's the rooibos or the cacao, or both, but they joined with the resins & naughty, naughty vetiver to make me want to keel over in a dead faint of bliss. On skin: After a supremely satisfying & steamy soak, there is a faint aura of red tea and vetiver clinging to my skin. Only with my nose pressed right up to it, though. I think an extra little moisturizing slather is in order, because I want to smell like this all night long. Verdict: Like I said, it has the same sort of sultry sweet heat I like in Santa Muerte. I bet they'd layer fantastically. For me, this is the no-holds-barred winner of Lupercalia 2012, end of story. Now if you'll excuse me, I have to go plan how I can afford to buy enough of this to never, ever, ever run out.

From some of the reviews, Oberon sounds like it might be similar to what you're looking for. It's a cool, windswept, springtime forest-y kind of scent. Aperotos Eros is sweeter; deep, musky dappled-sunlight-and-shade on the forest floor. It makes me think of hot summer days in the woods.

In vial: The first thought that popped into my head was 'The devil's petshop'. It took me a few moments to talk myself into putting it on my skin... Wet: Almost immediately, the musty, dank woodsiness gives way to tobacco and ginger. Leafy, musky, spicy and rough. Dry: The myrrh does much to sweeten the blend, in an unrefined way- much more like raw cane sugar than your run of the mill white stuff. It doesn't seem to have it's typical resinous quality, and there is a touch of dirty green- the opoponax I expect. There is a pulpy twang which must be the neroli. It gives a suave air to it, with the pepper adding just enough heat to get you hot under the collar. Verdict: Intimidating at first glance, yet undeniably swoon-worthy upon closer inspection. I'd agree that it's in the same vein as Gnome, and also with the ginger ale comparisons to a certain extent. It's like the difference between a can of tame, bubbly Canada Dry ginger ale, and a can of deep, fiery Buffalo Rock ginger ale. At moments it also reminds me the tiniest bit of an intensely dark version of No. 93 Engine. In the end I think the tobacco is a bit too prominent for this to work very well on me, but with the right chemistry, this blend could be very, very bad - in the best way possible.

In vial: Creamy, honeyed rosewater. Wet: Becomes very sweet as the fig emerges, and slightly soapy as jasmine joins in. Dry: I thought it was a rather faint blend at first, but it gets stronger for awhile before settling down. Almond adds a lightly creamy nuttiness, and eventually I get a slight dusty, dirty impression of patchouli. Verdict: Lovely, seems quite retro/vintage/classic to me.

In vial: Foresty, sharp & green. Wet: Seemed quite masculine at first, with the fir sap, pine and sea spray quite heavily present. I wasn't thrilled as it was vaguely soapy, but within just a few minutes it tones down. Something lightly floral peeks through, maybe the tea flower? It's gentle and luminous. Dry: The moss that is detectable at this point is sweet and dense, backed by a clean earthiness. Hints of smoky sandarac & frankincense waft by, seeming so sweet as to almost emulate a resinous cloud of candy floss, spiced by the clove & nutmeg-like qualities of ravensara. Verdict: I was preparing myself to have Oborot turn sharp, ozoney or filthy on me, as evergreens, aquatics, and dirt scents often do. Yet there must be some true magic in the incense and moss, because it was redeemed and turned out to be really pretty on me. It's subtle enough that it could be worn with confidence to work, yet striking enough to be intriguing if detected in close quarters. Without knowing the notes beforehand, I don't think I'd be able to say what's in it - impressions of earthy yet clean coziness are what I get. It seems a bit familiar, though I'm not sure what other blend I could compare it to - a smokier version of Oak Moon, perhaps? Something about the green, translucent sweetness they share is similar. Today was actually a rare day when I didn't feel like wearing perfume at all - Oborot turned out to be the perfect remedy. I don't feel like I'm billowing out clouds of scent, more like being just gently draped in the natural, soft aroma of heavenly bare skin in a moonlit seaside forest glade.

Oddly enough, on drydown Lysander is almost identical to JCB on my skin, though the notes aren't very similar. Something about the creamy, woodsy lilac just reminds me of it.