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In vial: Clean, grassy. Wet: Soft, plushy, feathery amber. I want to snuggle with it. Dry: The sandalwood adds a bit of a sturdy base, but this is very much an airy, velvet dust sort of blend. Verdict: Simply, sweet as a little sparrow! Borderline soapy at moments. This is something I would let my little daughter dab on. Very pure and gentle.

In vial: CASSIA, shouted from the rooftops. Wet: Cassia, thrashingly violent and bitter. Feel the burn. After just a moment, the sugar cane begins to tame it down and I get something like those cinnamon honey sticks I used to love as a kid. A bit of lemon zest is curling round the edge, it's quite nice actually (citrus usually goes wrong on me). Dry: Actually quite pleasant at this point. My skin is not having an adverse reaction like it does with cinnamon, so I am quite pleased. But what's this? Where did the cassia go? Literally, mid-sniff it was gone. I was quite stunned, considering how overbearing it was at first - for it to ratchet down about seventy notches in half a second like that is a little crazy. But then, we are referring to a Dodo here. I can plainly discern the agarwood and red musk now, it is spicy and clean. Verdict: The first time I smelled this blend back in the spring, I was quite new to BPAL and The Dodo scared the daylights out of me! I did not skin test it then, my heart was too fearstruck. Now that I am more experienced, and know to try EVERYTHING, no matter how awful I think it will be, I gave it a chance. And wow. I genuinely like it! I also learned through this test that cassia may be a good alternative to cinnamon for me, since I can't wear really spicy blends like Bengal without getting red blotches.

In bottle: Much musk, deep. Herbal, velvety lavender. Wet: Mossy neroli, I am really liking this stage so far! The lavender has pulled back some, which helps a lot. Dry: Now I can pick out the amber, the moonflower, and definitely the pomegranate, which makes my nose stuff up. I wish it woudn't make me so sneezy all the time, cause so many blends have pom! The end result (what I can detect through my sniffles, anyway) is a tart, feminine scent. Very vintage chic. Verdict: I like it more than expected! I'm not sure if it's worth the sneezing fit, but it's lovely all the same!

This was mainly mint from beginning to end. I got a smear of artificial chocolate the moment I applied, then toothpaste, then sugary candy canes. It's funny how specific the mint is! You can really tell the difference between the toothpaste and the candy cane stage. I never got any lime whatsoever. I prefer the ultra creamy mint in Green Tree Viper, and the aromatic chocolate & moss combo in How Doth the Little Crocodile.

In vial: Rather reminds me of The Bow and Crown of Conquest. Mmm. Wet: Snake Oil, luscious and soothing. Dry: Smooth, supple vanilla leather. It tempers the sweetness of Snake Oil just enough to make it masculine-leaning. In the best way possible, of course! Verdict: I think I prefer straight-up SO on myself, and my husband won't let me put any Western Diamondback on him. Until then...

In vial: Aquatic! Wet: Juniper berry, much smoother than straight up juniper normally seems to me. I could learn to like juniper if it was like this. Dry: The Chinese musk & salty notes pop out, warm yet refreshing at the same time. Nice but tending to turn rather soapy. Verdict: Still haven't found the aquatic that thrills me. Ah well.

In vial: Musky cherries. Wet: Earthy, dirty cypress, not recognizing anything else yet... Dry: Perhaps tobacco or snakeweed? Slightly woody, whatever it is. I think there is a bit of jasmine breezing by, just barely. End result is a faint floral, underscored by neutral smelling dirt. Verdict: No plum for me, which is neither here nor there. Not my style anyway!

In vial: Woods! Pines and evergreens. Wet: Something strong, maybe the grape vine? Acrid, and very. Dry: The wet phase was hard to get through, but the drydown is beautiful. Rose & opium smoke. So soft & sweet. Almost seems musky, but gently so. Verdict: The trees are pretty scary at first (pine/evergreens do not like me) but the end result is lovely. I don't know how I feel about this. I may keep the imp around until I can find something that works better for me.

In vial: Orangey chocolate. Wet: Chocolate- not bitter, quite sweet actually. I can pick out the champaca & honey for sure. It is a really innocent feeling scent to me. Dry: Fruity chocolate, though not as strong as most foody scents seem to me (that's a good thing). The throw is quite pleasant, just the right amount Verdict: Much better than expected, especially the drydown. Not something I would wear regularly, but nice nonetheless.

In bottle: Resinous ozone. Wet: Red musk, strong and warm. The only other blend I own that contains red musk is Red Lace, and I can clearly smell the resemblance. Phoenix in Summer's amber is lovely, not powdery on me at all. Dry: This is a rare blend for me, the ozone is just a little zap, not overpowering at all. I haven't sneezed once which is usually my reaction to ozone blends! It's mainly a musky, sun-drenched sidewalk on me. Verdict: The overall feeling of this scent is definitely summer- dry, hot, sweet. This is the first ozone I've found that actually agrees with me, so it may earn a place in my permanent collection. Then again, Red Lace does already meet my red musk needs quite well.

In vial: Sweet pines, sappy but pretty mellow. Wet: Rosy evergreens. Obviously this is quite aged, and it has none of the sharp/herbal quality I usually associate with forest scents. Dry: The rose gets warmer and sweeter, it seems like there is a spicy resin coming out. It is not strong or heavy, but I can't pull my nose from my wrist, it smells that good. It's almost incensed, in a very natural, untouched way. Verdict: Dublin gives me hope that forest scents may work on me yet! It figures that it's DC'ed. Utterly gorgeous.

In vial: Bitter & stale smelling, with a hint of dark, smoky, untended evergreens. On skin: Wow, this smells exactly how I thought Gothic Horror would! Whereas GH ended up being romantically rosy, this blend is spicy and slightly scary. Maybe it's the mandarin? Citrus doesn't do too well on me. I can definitely pick out the clove, and the cypress and rosewood smooth out the smoky musk. Dry: Whatever was frightening me faded- the remaining scent is basalm-laden myrrh, dusted with spices. I like this stage best, yet something is still lurking in the undertones... it must be the discontent.

In vial: Citrus-tinged violet, peaky and thin. Wet on skin: A swift bloom of fresh, brilliantly glossy iris. I think it's the same iris that I like so much in Black Pearl. Mmmm. Dry: I can't detect much sandalwood, maybe a bit of dryness but that's it. A slight musky quality drifts past, still mostly iris. Sheens of neroli slide by every so often. Verdict: Curious, lovely blend. On the very verge of being powdery, it just barely avoids it. It doesn't seem dark to me at all- I envision a raven gliding on an updraft in a brilliantly blue, cloudless sky.

I think I am finally at the point where I feel qualified to give recs! I really liked reading your post, ciaobonefish. Here are my thoughts. Being somewhat of a Russophile myself, the obvious blend to try is The Russian Dance. Having not tested it myself yet, I can't say much about it. THE RUSSIAN DANCEFlorentine iris, black tea, labdanum, patchouli, champaca flower, benzoin, and ambergris. Shadwell is a semi-aquatic that I really like, the story about being on a fishing boat reminded me of it. It's mellow, sweet and clean but not shallow, if that makes sense. No soapiness here! SHADWELL Roll-ups, mildewed raincoat, sweet tea, and condensed milk. The bit about liking science brought Galvanic Goggles to mind. It's my fave Steamworks scent- I like it because it seems really warm and approachable yet intriguing. GALVANIC GOGGLES Golden goggles fitted with zinc and copper plates dangle heavily by their leather straps from a hook mounted to the wall. Its crystal lenses are effulgent with residual electric energy. Metallic notes with Indian musk, tobacco flower, and African balsam. Kubla Khan reminds me of Sky Captain and the World of Tomorrow; Aviator leather-clad retro steampunk adventures in the exotic Orient. It's a way complex scent, and rather sweet at first, but as the imp I have has aged, it has become much smoother and just incredible. KUBLA KHAN Through sunlit caves of ice, roses unfurl amidst dancing waves of serpentine opium smoke and amber tobacco, golden sandalwood, champaca, tea leaf, sugared lily, ginger, rich hay absolute, leather, dark vanilla, mandarin, peru balsam, and Moroccan jasmine. My final rec would be Old Scratch. I think the lavender scares people away at first, it smells sort of cologny but it mellows & the rosewood just smolders, the patchouli adding a bit of naughtiness. It's a very comforting & attractive blend to me. OLD SCRATCHOld Nick, the Devil himself, as seen through the eyes of Victorian New England. A jaunty, dapper scent, deceptively genteel: a lavender fougere with tonka, amber, rosewood and a whiff of diabolical patchouli.

Erik from Dark Delicacies 'Great Duets in Horror' Resin-coated wood, kerosene, oil, leather, musty velvet, and dust from the Grand Drape. I think the kerosene and oil notes in Erik would be pretty close to what you're looking for. It's actually a really wearable blend (for me at least), it's like a soft shiny smell almost, really smooth. Sometimes in blends with opium tar I get something similar, but much stronger and sharper.

In vial: Lemony. Wet: More lemon. Dry: Insubstantial lemon spray, misty and g-o-n-e. Verdict: Never got anyhing but lemon, which I don't usually like straight-up in perfume. I can do lemon meringue, and verbena, but by its lonesome it despises me. The feeling's mutual.

In vial: Fresh, milky in a green way. Wet: A burst of verbena & opoponax, myrrh warming from beneath. Dry: Creamy, oh so creamy. Pale, delicate yet satisfyingly rich. A touch of almond milk & cocoa butter with sweet, sheer beeswax and a soft touch of woods. Verdict: By far my favorite blend from Metamorphosis 2011! It has the creaminess I adore in blends like Alice & Green Tree Viper, but has an extra kick of spice from the resins. It actually brings to mind a childhood memory featuring a brass box full of powdery lemon drops, kept on a Brazilian Teak shelf in a wood-paneled library. Wonderfully evocative for me personally, I don't think I can resist a 5ml!

In vial: Stale wood... Wet: Campfire & burnt marshmallows. So intense I have to resist gagging, just really carcinogenic and bitter. I think its the khus (vetiver) reacting with the coffee. Reminds a little of Orc, almost leathery. Dry: Definitely the best stage BY FAR, once it mellows, which only took a few minutes. The disgusting ashiness subsides, leaving a creamy, woodsy base. What I hoped Antikythera Mechanism would smell like, actually! Just sweet, blonde wood, with a touch of smoky vetiver. Verdict: I was very put off by the vetiver, but it faded surprisingly quickly into the plushy wooden marshmallow stage. It is almost worth it, but falls just a bit short (for me, anyway).

In vial: Sour, pomegranate & cinnamon. Wet: Tart, tangy, juicy! Dry: I was a little taken aback at the throw from this one- intense is not an intense enough word! Pomegranate is definitely in the forefront, with little to no apple, fig or grape to sweeten it. My lips almost puckered at the smell of it. My chemistry doesn't agree with this at all! Verdict: Unfortunately, the throw is killing me. My eyes have been violently watering for the past two hours- I thought it could wait it out, but no more. It is so so bitter & stinging with its sharpness, like I put on spiced pom rubbing alcohol. The only worse experience I've had with BPAL was Milk Moon '05 (I gagged and washed it off within two minutes).

In vial: Faintly orangey honey. Wet: Sparsely sweet honey, a sprinkling of savory saffron. Dry: Bare traces of aromatic tobacco, and wisps of honey. Verdict: I was expecting a richer blend, but it's much lighter than I expected. This is very pretty, just so faint! Perhaps aging will deepen it, but there are too many other honey blends that really catch my interest, to go after this one.

In vial: Spiced, spicy, spices. Wet: Caraway, that must be what is so overpowering. Maybe a bit of pepper. Dry: The smallest bit of orange pel comes out, before being clobbered by the caraway again. Verdict: Too intense for me, but I can see it being deliciously attractive on the right person.

In vial: Sweet aquatic, depth from the tobacco. Wet: I'm getting an odd rubbery sort of smell, not mildewy per se, but maybe a bit mossy? Dry: Milky sweet tea, a hint of leathery tobacco, and the smell you get when it's just started to rain. Verdict: A fascinating scent! It reminds me of Erik in that they share the same inexplicable sense of sounding like yucky notes to put together, but when smelled are just perfect somehow. Both in the same realm of comforting, masculine-leaning scents. Since I already have a 5ml of Erik, I'll resist Shadwell. It was fun to actually have a semi-aquatic work on me though! (I say semi since it's not wet really, more damp - like I said before, just like when it begins to rain.)

In vial: Warm, sweet, a little sharp tang of sap and hemp. Wet: Milky nuttiness, corn stalks and dry acorns. Dry: The almond blossoms and rice milk become prevalent, adding some depth to the rustling elements. Slightly bitter, tempered by the sweet hay. Amber's powderiness envelops everything softly. Verdict: The wet/dry down stages actually remind me of barely sweetened cornflakes. Mushy ones, in a bowl of almond milk. Not so sure about the wearability of that, for me. The ultimate result of grainy amber is nice, definitely has potential- a little aging before I make my decision is in order.

In vial: Minty & lemony! Wet: The lemon isn't instant death on me as it usually is- what a surprise! I am getting a swirl of white chocolate and bourbon vanilla, and the absinthe is a sharp slightly herby base. I get a scent almost like latex or something, just at the very edges of the throw. When I try to pin it down I can't smell it anymore, and it passes pretty quickly. Dry: I am sad that it is fading as it dries because I actually really like this! The lemon meringue is poofy and awesome with the choco/vanilla blend. Verdict: Apparently my skin's penchant for creamy scents carries over even to redeem me from my lemon death note! Good to know. At moments it almost reminds me of a much more reserved version of Chaotic from the RPG line. I really like Chaotic, but it can be rather overwhelming for regular, everyday use. Knockout Drops could be the solution! I'll have to decide whether the short lifespan on my skin is a big enough drawback to keep me from hunting down a bottle.

In vial: Banana! Weird... Wet: Creamy lemons/bananas... Dry: Strangely subdued jasmine and deep vanilla. Rose and gardenia are out for the count. Hours later, I am left with a Snake Oil reminiscent aura, much lighter and domestic-seeming, vs. Snake Oil's exotic persona. Verdict: Glad to say that jasmine behaved herself, but the banana/lemon phase is just a bit too crazy for me & my jasmine + vanilla needs are already fulfilled in Defututa.