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INQUISITOR’S BILE Olibanum, gum mastic, aloeswood, dragon’s blood resin, dammar, and vetiver. In packet: A whiff of woods and resins - oh my. I was so excited for this one, and it smells like I had good reason to be! It's a mystical and deep melange of exotic components, none really coming to the forefront at first sniff. It's sweeter than I anticipated, in a heady way almost, incensed and spiced but not smoky. There is a slight earthy tang to it as well, perhaps the vetiver? In bath: Will update once tested.

HOWLET’S WING Fermented white ginger, honey, and lemon peel. In packet: Seems almost effervescent, sparkling and fizzy. There is only a bit of sweetness from the honey, but the ginger and lemon peel are quite strong. Bracing, almost. There is a faint creamy quality that keeps it from smelling like a household cleaner, so that is promising. I can't wait to see what it does in the water! In bath: Will update once tested.

A tangle of lush greenery and thick, rooty vines with a hint of pumpkin rind, crumbled leaves, and rich soil. In vial: Lush, supple and green. It's the smell of a just snapped stem, that soft milkiness. A hint of cool black soil. Wet: Waxy pumpkin rind - sweet, natural, sun-ripened. Not buttery or spiced at all. It seems more like a white pumpkin than an orange one. The soil is fading into a clean, almost ivy-like scent. Dry: There is a light freshness on drydown, not floral exactly, not ozone or aquatic either... Maybe it's the leaves? Like autumn leaves still vibrantly yellow and on the tree, with a cool breeze rustling through them. Verdict: Absolutely beautiful! Perfect for people like me who can't wear spiced pumpkin. It becomes the kind of close-wearing scent where people won't necessarily know you're wearing perfume - it just clings to your skin like you have been out wandering on a chilly autumn day.

I'd say The Phoenix in Summer fits the bill! THE PHOENIX IN SUMMER The Phoenix soars through a summer thunderstorm: Nepalese amber, galangal, red musk, saffron, ozone, and the scent of hot rain striking pavement.

In bottle: Leafy and musky. Wet: Spicy, dusky and dark. Hints of leaves and incense. Dry: It takes on a very dry, planty quality. Dusty leaves indeed! Laudanum is prominent now, slightly medicinal and cloying with the addition of tobacco. Verdict: I think this is ultimately too dark and heady for me to wear often. A small dab goes a long way!

In vial: PINEY. Antiseptic and sharp. Wet: Fades to a lovely smoky wood. This is the scent of distant bonfires you can detect on the cold breeze as you pick out the perfect tree. Dry: Same as wet - lightly smoky, powdery pine wood. Verdict: Not one I'd reach for, but it is certainly atmospheric! It would be better as a room spray I think.

In bottle: Musky honey. Dark and deep. Wet: A touch of leather and rose begin to emerge, but the musks are still in charge. Dry: Everything fades to a slightly rosy black musk. Verdict: Not for me. It's nice, but... black musk just isn't my thing I guess.

In bottle: Almond, sharp and dry. A touch of herbal thyme. Wet: On skin it is much creamier - the almond thankfully fades rapidly. It leaves just a hint of warm nuttiness under the sweet lavender. I like this stage very much! Herbal vanilla caramel is what I think of. Dry: It smells 'homemade'. Not necessarily foody, nor like handmade soap... just creamy and all-around delicious. Verdict: I enjoy this blend which I can rarely say about anything featuring almond, but unfortunately my skin reacted unfavorably to something in it - leaving temporary welts. If I but had a scent locket this would be a keeper!

In vial: Sparkly vanilla. Wet: A splash of honey, velvety and soft. A serenading bouquet, I don't know which flowers but they are pretty. Dry: It's like a dusting of barely floral powdered sugar. Verdict: At some moments it's like a more floral version of CC Female. Those who enjoy blends such as Lyonesse, Womb Furie, and Mouse's Long and Sad Tale will probably adore this.

In vial: Glimmering spices. I agree that it is probably Indian Musk. It reminds me of what I like about Galvanic Goggles - this being much slinkier and 'lighter', but not insubstantial. Wet: Waxy, warm rosin. I get the impression of candlelight, shadows, and soft footsteps. Dry: It's settled into a slightly metallic, cinnamon-tinged wood scent - like a polished, aged wooden chest of spices and gold coins. I don't know if there is really cinnamon in the blend or not. My skin reacts to large amounts of it, and it looks fine even though I slathered. Verdict: It's basically the scent of a pilfered treasure chest. My nose is glued to my wrists. What more can I say!

In bottle: Hazelnut, caramel tones and sticky globs of honey. Seems way foody! Wet: Nutty, warm and softly musky. Not detecting any berries or pine, but I like it more than expected on my skin, so far. Dry: Soft fur! It smells like cuddling with a clean, fluffy bear. The nuts have toned down a bit, thankfully, but the honey is keeping the humectant, gooey vibe there in the background. Verdict: I only tried it because you can never tell - even though most nuts, berries and pine are usually unpleasant on me. To my great surprise, I actually like this! The honey and whatever equals moonlight + fur redeems this blend for me. I'll admit that the nutty sweetness is a bit much for the first little while, but it eventually calms down into a fuzzy, cuddly glow. I keep thinking - it's Winnie the Pooh in a bottle.

In bottle: Bitingly sharp woods and greenery. Wet: It begins with prominent foliage, viney and prickly. Moss drapes overhead, dusty and light. This phase settles down soon enough not to be too off-putting. The berries emerge, subtly tart. Dry: A wild raspberry patch! Not quite ripe, mouth-puckering fruits scattered among a neglected garden, with a few bleached boards laying about. Intriguing and pretty. Verdict: The notes appealed to me, but I don't think this is a scent I'd really wear. It seems like a deep, shady summer kind of blend, too 'cool' for my taste.

There’s magic afoot: fiery red musk, luminous elemi, East Indian patchouli, champaca flower, cedar incense, ho wood, and hemlock accord sweetened with a peculiar sweet honey. In vial: Musky, incensed, dirty. Wet: The woods are much more prominent than expected. Old, splintery woods. Champaca is very present as well. Dry: Honey and patchouli, dry and dusty. A hint of soap creeps in. Verdict: It's nice, but I don't love it. I find Witch Dance's incense & candied leaves to be much more up my alley.

In vial: Fluffy maple pumpkin. Wet: A thick ooze of currant maple syrup. Dark, not too sweet. Dry: A puff of marshmallow sugar & tarry licorice. Verdict: I am unsure how much I like the maple on my skin. I think this is something I'd much rather eat than wear.

In vial: A stream of soporific nectar, languorous and cool. Wet: Blue lotus (which is surprisingly not straight-up bubble gum, as lotus usually becomes on me), lunar and glowing - pairing well with the lighter sweetness of passionflower. A layer of pale musk and opium floats above. Dry: There is an inoffensive, almost innocent fruity feel to the drydown. Verdict: It's nice to see a 'still, nighttime, quiet' type blend that isn't overpowered with lavender.

In vial: Foamy plum and kelp. Clean, aquatic. If you missed out on 'Kiyohime Changes From A Serpent' from the Salon line, definitely try this! They are very similar.

In vial: Musky, velvety orchid, dewed with drops of honey. Seems very classic, feminine. Wet: A shadowed blot of inky blood musk seeps in, taking the feminine side and giving her a gritty edge. Dry: The amber coats everything in a resinous haze, and the fig leaf brushes by with a spine-tingling touch. Verdict: Perfectly evocative of the painting it represents: Creepily romantic and slightly terrifying. I feel like something is watching me when I have this on.

In vial: Leafy, syrupy red musk. Wet: A fruity burst of incense. It does not seem smoky to me yet, much more like fresh, unburned incense. I am getting something in the background that seems like myrrh - that same golden sweetness, perhaps with a streak of soot. Dry: Glossy, sticky, stays close to the skin. The sugary aspect melds into a warm, musky blush. Verdict: It's like an incense-candy-coated pile of leaves. Or like Sed Non Satiata and The Lights of Men's Lives, with a touch of October all blended together in a mystic arcane ritual. I have several red musk blends in my bottle collection, but this is so deliciously different that I may just have to cave and get a bottle.

In the vial: I get a very strong 'Asian' impression - neon lights in Tokyo, a black & hot pink glow. I get distinct plum and citrus right off the bat. Wet: The orchid comes out on skin, subtle and delicate. Currant supports it, a deep velvet backdrop. The grapefruit and neroli add a razor-sharp edge. Dry: The plum amps (as it tends to do, on me) and the grapefruit goes just a bit too sour for my taste. Verdict: I did not expect to like this at all considering the notes, so I was surprised when I sniffed it and got such a specific impression. Ultimately it didn't work out for me, but I am quite pleased I got to try this lovely blend.

In vial: Deliciously fresh, sweetly thin air. Not nearly as ozonic as I expected. I am not very familiar with snow notes, but I like this one so far. Wet: It reminds me very much of a sharper, thinner version of Dublin. Sniffing side by side, Monastery is noticeably more... airy? I think if the incense strengthens with age, Monastery could very well become an acceptable dupe for Dublin, in my opinion they are definitely in the same family. Dry: The gusty snow clouds quickly take on a latex-like tinge, the same way that kept Knockout Drops from working on me. There is a similar, almost lemony feel. Verdict: The final stage goes too rubbery for me to enjoy, which has happened with other light blends of this nature. I still really love the way this smells in the imp though!

In vial: Light, pulpy pumpkin with a dusting of dark amber. A touch of smooth wood. Wet: The pumpkin becomes significantly more spiced, like it's being prepared for pie filling (This is the saro, I think? From what I could find online it seems to be related to cinnamon or camphor?) The amber gives it a creamy feel. Dry: The creamy amber fades into a raspy wood & there is perhaps a slight touch of fruity floral from the mimosa. Verdict: It reminds me of a non-foody pumpkin pie, if that makes sense. A little too close to 'generic-craft-store' for me, though I do tend to classify anything with pumpkin + spice as such. I honestly just cannot tell enough of a difference between them!

You mentioned plum florals, Kaidan is one that I really love: Rosehip, plum blossom, white sandalwood, jonquil, and amber-laden incense. The amber incense is not heavy at all, and the rosehip adds a tangy, citrus-like edge. It's worth a shot!

Edit: Looks like there is a nice big thread about this very topic, right here! Happy reading --- A former florist myself, I know very well the scent you mean! I haven't yet come across a blend that completely evokes it, but here are a few you may want to try. (Not that I have gotten to sniff most of these myself, they just seem promising!) The Reaper and the Flowers (GC)A funereal bouquet laid on cemetery grass: longiflorum lilies, white rose, chrysanthemum, and carnation. The Passionate Shepherd to His Love (LE, 2008)Heather, clover, Irish moss, English ivy, tea rose, and carnation. Her Voice (LE, 2008)Hyacinth, beeswax, wild roses, vanilla amber, lily of the valley, tiger lily, honeysuckle, carnation, and heliotrope. Maybe try layering one of those with the following, to get the chilled aspect: The Coil (GC, discon. 2010)Ozone, eucalyptus and mint with purple orchid, passionflower, white ginger, and purple lotus.

GUYS!!!! I made a spreadsheet so I can have an inventory of my 5ml stash... and I discovered a great gadget on google docs! My main list has blend names, descriptions, collection and so on. I wanted to add a second sheet, ideally having most if not all of the notes contained in my collection listed and tallied up so I could easily see how many blends I own contain patchouli, for instance. WELL. I started out by listing all the notes, removing duplicates and using an online tool to quickly alphabetize them. Then I inserted them all into the doc, one per line. In the neighboring column, I used the function: It needs to have the column of scent descriptions selected, so in this case even though this text is on Sheet2, it needs to say Sheet1, since that's where it gathers the info from. This seemed to work pretty well, though tedious to input next to each different note, being sure to change the note in between the double quotes. I couldn't figure out how to get it to search for separate but related things under the same function though? Like I would prefer it to add white musk, crystal musk and pale musk together, if that makes sense? Anyway so what I did was just add the function to the two adjoining columns, specifying crystal musk and pale musk. I ended up with three numbers, but it isn't hard to add them up at a glance. So, I thought this was pretty spiffy. Then, just goofing around, I discovered the Tree Map Gadget. You just click 'Insert > Gadgets...' and find the Tree Map. When you add it, you need to tell it what rows and columns to utilize... and presto! YOU GET AN AWESOME VISUAL MAP OF YOUR NOTES! When I added it and it reloaded with my info, I squealed quite loudly!! I wish the colors were customizable, but other than that it is perfect. It basically shows a bunch of colored rectangles with your notes listed, and they vary by size according to how many blends contain that note. So in my case, the largest squares are patchouli, rose, vanilla, incense and so on. You can even click on each square to see the number of blends that have it! You can take a look at my doc here (the chart is on Sheet2, be sure to fullscreen it for the best effect! )

Thanks for the advice, azurephoenix and sunshinedaisybliss! I will have to keep those in mind. I have just arrived in Tokyo and am horribly jetlagged, waiting for my final connection... But I will definitely keep your tips in mind! (I think I already said that... sooooooo tired) Also, I should mention I have one of the lab's vevet baggies stuffed to the brim with imps (at least 20) in my carry-on luggage, and nobody has given it a second glance. It is sealed with my liquids in a quart size bag.