OctoberGwen

Mmmm, oudh is generally lovely on my skin and it is really gorgeous with amber! This is deep and dark and has an expensive vibe to it. Sometimes the pared-down blends are surprisingly rich. I will reach for this one often, I think.

MMMMMmmmmmmm. I love this, but bear in mind I'm a huge fan of vetiver and patch, and there aren't many musks I don't love. The patchouli is very smooth and the vetiver is wrapped around it like a shroud. The musk is in the black family, probably, but it's almost like smoke here. There is a slightly dry quality, which I like, and not even a hint of sweetness - also good, in my book. A strong, assertive scent.

There is a leafy wood fringed by Oceanus’ farthest marge beyond the Indes and the East where Dawn’s panting coursers first seek entrance; it hears the lash close by, what time the watery threshold echoes to the dewy car; and hence comes forth the rosy morn while night, illumined by those far-shining wheels of fire, casts off her sable cloak and broods less darkly. This is the kingdom of the blessèd bird of the sun where it dwells in solitude defended b the inhospitable nature of the land and immune from the ills that befall other living creatures; nor does it suffer infection from the world of men. Equal to the gods is that bird whose life rivals the stars and whose renascent limbs weary the passing centuries. It needs no food to satisfy hunger nor any drink to quench thirst; the sun’s clear beam is its food, the sea’s rare spray its drink–exhalations such as these form its simple nourishment. A mysterious fire flashes from its eyes, and a flaming aureole enriches its head. Its crest shines with the sun’s own light and shatters the darkness with its calm brilliance. Its legs are of Tyrian purple; swifter than those of the Zephyrs are its wings of flower-like blue dappled with rich gold. Never was this bird conceived nor springs it from any mortal seed, itself is alike its own father and son, and with none to recreate it, it renews its outworn limbs with a rejuvenation of death, and at each decease wins a fresh lease of life. For when a thousand summers have passed far away, a thousand winters gone by, a thousand springs in their course given to the husbandmen that shade of which autumn robbed them, then at last, fordone by the number of its years, it falls a victim to the burden of age; as a tall pine on the summit of Caucasus, wearied with storms, heels over with its weight and threatens at last to crash in ruin; one portion falls by reason of the unceasing winds, another breaks away rotted by the rain, another consumed by the decay of years. Now the Phoenix’s bright eye grows dim and the pupil becomes palsied by the frost of years, like the moon when she is shrouded in clouds and her horn beings to vanish in the mist. Now his wings, wont to cleave the clouds of heaven, can scarce raise them from the earth. Then, realizing that his span of life is at an end and in preparation for a renewal of his splendour, he gathers dry herbs from the sun-warmed hills, and making an interwoven heap of the branches of the precious tree of Saba he builds that pyre which shall be at once his tomb and his cradle. On this he takes his seat and as he grows weaker greets the Sun with his sweet voice; offering up prayers and supplications he begs that those fires will give him renewal of strength. Phoebus, on seeing him afar, checks his reins and staying his course consoles his loving child with these words: ‘Thou who art about to leave thy years behind upon yon pyre, who, by this pretence of death, art destined to rediscover life; thou whose decease means but the renewal of existence and who by self-destruction regainest thy lost youth, receive back thy life, quit the body that must die, and by a change of form come forth more beauteous than ever.’ So speaks he, and shaking his head casts one of his golden hairs and smites willing Phoenix with its life-giving effulgence. Now, to ensure his rebirth, he suffers himself to be burned and in his eagerness to be born again meets death with joy. Stricken with the heavenly flame the fragrant pile catches fire and burns the aged body. The moon in amaze checks her milk-white heifers and heaven halts his revolving spheres, while the pyre conceives the new life; Nature takes care that the deathless bird perish not, and calls upon the sun, mindful of his promise, to restore its immortal glory to the world. Straightway the life spirit surges through his scattered limbs; the renovated blood floods his veins. The ashes show signs of life; they begin to move though there is none to move them, and feathers clothe the mass of cinders. He who was but now the sire comes forth from the pyre the son and successor; between life and life lay but that brief space wherein the pyre burned. His first delight is to consecrate his father’s spirit by the banks of the Nile and to carry to the land of Aegyptus the burned mass from which he was born. With all speed he wings his way to that foreign strand, carrying the remains in a covering of grass. Birds innumerable accompany him, and whole flocks thereof throng in airy flight. Their mighty host shuts out the sky where’er it passes. But from among so vast an assemblage none dares outstrip the leader; all follow respectfully in the balmy wake of their king. Neither the fierce hawk nor the eagle, Jove’s own armour-bearer, fall to fighting; in honour of their common master a truce is observed by all. Thus the Parthian monarch leads his barbarous hosts by yellow Tigris’ banks, all glorious with jewels and rich ornament and decks his tiara with royal garlands; his horse’s bridle is of gold, Assyrian embroidery embellishes his scarlet robes, and proud with sovereignty he lords it o’er his numberless slaves. There is in Aegyptus a well-known city celebrated for its pious sacrifices and dedicated to the worship of Ra. Its temples rest on a hundred columns hewn from the quarries of Thebes. Here, as the story tells, the Phoenix is wont to store his father’s ashes and, adoring the image of the god, his master, to entrust his precious burden to the flames. He places on the altar that from which he is sprung and that which remains of himself. Bright shines the wondrous threshold; the fragrant shrine is filled with the holy smoke of the altar and the odour of Indian incense, penetrating even as far as the Pelusiac marshes, fills the nostrils of men, flooding them with its kindly influence and with a scent sweeter than that of nectar perfumes the seven mouths of the dark Nile. Happy bird, heir to thine own self! Death which proves our undoing restores thy strength. Thine ashes give thee life and though thou perish not thine old age dies. Thou hast beheld all that has been, hast witnessed the passing of the ages. Thou knowest when it was that the waves of the sea rose and o’erflowed the rocks, what year it was that Phaëthon’s error devoted to the flames. Yet did no destruction overwhelm thee; sole survivor thou livest to see the earth subdued; against thee the Fates gather not up their threads, powerless to do thee harm. Sole survivor thou livest to see the earth subdued; against thee the Fates gather not up their threads, powerless to do thee harm: red patchouli, sweet frankincense, and the figs and pomegranates of the seven mouths of the dark Nile. This will be gorgeous on someone else, but for me it is a miss. I wanted more delicious red patchouli, which I love, and less fig, which I kind of hate. Alas, this is so very FIG! on my skin - which means it is far, far, far too sweet for me. I get a hint of frankincense and a bit of pomegranate, perhaps a whisper of patchouli, and of course FIG! Fig lovers should get this immediately, and if you are afraid of patch or frank just hope your skin is like mine and then you'll just have FIG!

King mandarin, passionfruit, Moroccan rose absolute, labdanum, and amber musk. I bought a bottle of this unsniffed because I adore King Mandarin, and generally fruit + musk equals win on me. I am not disappointed! I would put this in the same family as my beloved Sumai No Sechie. It's fruity, but the musk gives it a beautiful, complex anchor on which to do its thing. I'm not getting rose per se, but I think it's also serving to deepen the fruit notes. The mandarin and passion fruit are really lovely together, and I'm not getting any labdanum now (I did smell a bitter sharpness when this first came out of the mailbox, but it has smoothed out wonderfully.) Sometimes labdanum does unpleasant things on my skin. This is a very pretty, close-to-the-skin scent that I think would be perfect for everyday wear, especially in warmer weather. While the King Mandarin is very dominant when wet (which is fine by me), the dry down is far more blended and subtle, slightly musky with just a faint sweetness. Really lovely.

Hidden beneath a veil of thick, sweet black cherry lies a lecherously lovely lust blend that includes aged black patchouli, bourbon vanilla absolute, and cubeb berry. This lust blend can be employed both as a fragrance and within a ritual environment to attract sexual partners, vitalize your libido, and create an aura of playful wantonness. In the context of religious ritual, this oil can be used when venerating Aphrodite or Ishtar, or when appeasing Tlazolmiquiztli. This blend smells great, very cherry heavy, and worked nicely in terms of evoking the "playful wantonness" mentioned in the description. Love Oil 7 is still my go-to lust blend, but this one is a close second.

An oil of joyful lust and whirlwind passion: Damask rose, red vegetal musk, bourbon vanilla absolute, bitter almond, and organic peppermint. This oil thrums with desire and, simply put – this was made for fucking. This oil was assembled and charged under a dual Venus-Mars ritual, and was continuously re-consecrated twice weekly, during the hours of Venus and Mars, over the course of seven lunations. This is an anointing oil -- it can be used in a ritual capacity to consecrate talismans and amulets, candles, and figures. It can be used in the bedroom to arouse feelings of lust, and also be used as a personal fragrance for the same purpose. Love Oil 7 is my Go To TAL for enhanced sexytimes. It has never failed to put me in the mood and in fact has a sort of zero-to-sixty effect on me. It is amazing. This is secondary, of course, but I have to say that it also smells fantastic. My husband loves it, too.

Haitian vetiver, tea leaf, Himalayan cedar, and apricot rind. I think this is a blend that needs some age to smooth it out and bring out the subtler tea leaf and apricot rind, because all I got was VETIVER (which I love) and cedar. Oddly, I was also getting a coffee vibe, and I have no idea where that was coming from.

Complex, cerebral, elegant, and neat...this does my firstborn Virgo child proud. Very well blended, the lemon verbena lifts what is otherwise a beautifully earthy - yet somehow bright - scent. I don't get patchouli per se but I know that is what's grounding things here, keeping it from getting too high pitched. I think this would smell equally good on a man, but it's not leaning masculine. I'd wear this to a night out at the theater or a gallery opening; something sophisticated and dressy. Virgo is gorgeous, and I don't have any other BPALs like it.

Peach blossoms, olibanum, myrrh, and white sandalwood. This is lovely! I still get light peach, even though this is the blossom - do peach blossoms smell like the fruit IRL? I have never smelled them. At any rate, this is a beautiful light incense - the most delicate peach incense you can imagine. Upon first spritzing, it's sweet and more peach/floral, then after a few seconds the incense comes through and it all blends nicely into what definitely reads as peach incense. It is very, very pretty. It makes a perfect powder room replacement for Peaches In the BPAL Garden, which I just used the last of.

Red musk and almond husk with sweet fig, Bulgarian rose absolute, blood orange rind, and green cognac. Oh, this is lovely, and it reminds me of another BPAL blend but I can't put my finger on it. If I think of it, I'll come back and edit. I happen to looooove red musk, and it loves me, but if you are afraid of it then Daruma Doll is one you may want to try. The red musk is subdued and blends quite beautifully with the fig (normally a note I dislike), almond husk, and Bulgarian rose (one of my favorite roses.) The blood orange rind is just a whisper, lifting things up a little bit, and right now I'm not getting the cognac but this bottle is only a day out of the mailbox and I expect it to show up with a bit of settling. I love this blend and will almost certainly put it into regular rotation.

Pendulous blue wisteria, white peonies, ho wood, magnolia petals, plum juice, and red benzoin. This is a very strong, very 'present' floral with perhaps an undertone of benzoin. I don't smell the plum juice at all. There's a slightly spicy quality here as well as something that almost tips into sour territory, but not quite. Floral aficionados will probably enjoy this very much, as wisteria and peony are very distinctive. I prefer my florals with some musk or a resin that has a bit more presence than the benzoin has here. I will say that the drydown is very pretty, when my beloved magnolia makes more of an appearance. I will reach for this when in the mood for a distinctive non-rose floral, perhaps.

Beth's best ghostly scent to date, as far as I'm concerned. The "pierced veil" description is perfect: this is a drifting, haunting scent - with my beautiful ambergris and a surprisingly subtle frankincense to keep it from being both too airy and too flowery. It's not white, it's misty grey. And it's stunning.

The scent of actual lilac flowers is one of my favorite smells, bringing me right back to my childhood. Sadly, as a perfume note lilac almost always goes sour on my skin, and the one in this blend is no exception. I was hoping "lilac water" would work somehow, but...nope. With the correct skin chemistry, I imagine this is a delicate, old-fashioned scent of win, though.

Floral aficionados take note: Lullaby is pretty stunning. It's a beautiful, slightly haunting blend that on me is very moonflower-dominant, which I LOVE. Usually if lavender is present, it stomps all over the other notes - but not here, thankfully. I think this is a slightly melancholy cousin to June 23, 1868 from the Only Lovers Left Alive collection; they both have a lovely English cottage garden by night feel, but Lullaby's moss note gives it a lonely, yearning air. SophieCedar nailed it: this will be a very underrated scent that floral lovers who miss out will be seeking later. Get it now!

I adore this. On me, the ambergris is front and center (which is perfect, as Beth's ambergris accord is one of my favorite notes.) I detect the white rose, and I'm very happy that the vanilla amber is not turning too sweet on me. I get zero "fizzy" quality, just a light muskiness. Oftentimes I try these types of scent and they just go sickly sweet - I'm thinking of Ava, and Edith, and Butterflies Flowers & Jewels. This one is a perfect blend for me: sweet, yes, but not cloyingly so, and ambergris-dominant rather than vanilla-heavy. Exquisite, classic, and very pretty. It also evokes the scene in the film it is named for very successfully. I need a couple of bottles of this one.

Opium is often not my friend, and when I first tried this scent the poppy seemed to be doing a similar sharp thing on my skin. I put it away (I actually thought I had swapped it), and pulled it out today after finally seeing the film a few days ago. Can I just say that I am so glad I didn't swap this one? After several months, whatever wackiness was happening has completely smoothed out, leaving a stunning, darkly beautiful scent that falls firmly in my wheelhouse. There's very little not to like about a myrrh/musk/sandalwood combo, and the poppy lends an Oriental air to all that dark goodness.

I am a huge fan of the Laces, and this one is really wonderful. Slightly fizzy with all the distinct notes that say 'Lace', it is reminiscent of Antique and also Summer, without the fruit. Mostly it just makes me feel happy when I smell it. I am so thrilled with this addition to the family.

This is really, really pretty - it's just not for me. I realized almost immediately that the vanilla musk was what made Ava too cloyingly sweet on me, and so of course the same thing happens with Edith despite the addition of all those lovely, drier grey/white/woodsy notes. I tend to amp vanilla and anything vaguely sugary to the point of nausea. I'm sure Edith will have legions of fans, though, because she really is lovely.

I'm getting smoothed-out black patch and vetiver with a hint of rich red rose, and it's divine. This is dark, deadly, and dangerous - in the most feminine way possible. I don't get tonka, plum, or blackcurrant per se, but surely they are lending that sweetish, smoooooooth quality to the blend. This is not for every day; it's the scent to bring out when you want to be the most fatale of the femme fatales in the room. ETA: The more I wear this, the more I realize that I really need a bottle. The rose becomes more prominent in the drydown, and if there's one thing I love, it's a dark incensey/rose scent. I love every stage of this scent: the initial strong blast of smoky vetiver; when the patch comes into play; the rose/patch/vetiver; and the far drydown, which is all incense/rose. It's gorgeous, fairly unique in its category, and long-wearing. And I would put this into heavy rotation, after all. I really love it.

Adam is the first wearable leather blend for me, and I would imagine that is because of its complexity. There is a lot of depth here and it's one of those blends that is greater than the sum of its parts. It really invokes the film's character. In the far drydown I get barely any leather at all, just a whisper blended beautifully with the slightly woodsy, sweetish mixture of all the other notes. Like Eve, Adam is gorgeous, haunting, and unforgettable. I'm so happy to have a matched set of bottles.

I can't believe I've never tried this. I need to start giving some love to the GC. There is a reason that flowers are so often used in perfumes - they fucking smell good. People who appreciate good florals will love Moscow. The addition of the musky base and the brightening effect of the bergamot and tangerine are just gorgeous with the rose, carnation, and lily of the valley. The jasmine is so well blended, it's barely a whisper - just adding its distinctive brand of sweetness to the mix. As Nicnivin said, it is classic and regal in a very 'Russian tea house' way. It's almost a crime that I don't own a bottle of this yet.

One of the few fruity blends I really love, probably because it's so dark. I think the bud of the blackcurrant is also a more subtle version of the fruit, scent-wise. It's a lovely swirl of fruity rose and musky tonka, blended really seamlessly. This may have snuck its way into my Top Ten. Something about my skin chemistry works really, really well with this blend - I am very glad I've been able to locate two bottles.

I was lucky enough to snag an empty bottle a couple of years ago and ever since, I've been stockpiling and hoarding by dribs and drabs. I adore Storyville. It's rich and deep and everything old world New Orleans, and it smells unbelievable on me. I think it's the Great Tragedy of BPAL that it will never be resurrected.

MY MOMMY IN A BOAT Crayon on craft paper, 2012 This is my mommy in a boat. She loves to be in boats. Sea salt and Devil's Reef seaweed with Himalayan cedar, lemon verbena, hay absolute, and a dribble of Snake Oil. My Mommy in a Boat Oh man, fresh out of the mailbox and this is already such an intriguing blend of smells! I am not usually a fan of the hay note, and I definitely smell it here, but it is offset in a really interesting way by the other elements. I get a hint of salty wood, a whiff of lemon verbena, and playing a supporting role underneath is my beloved Snake Oil. When immediately applied, it smells rich and almost foody. That quickly dissipates as it dries and the blend then develops a more perfumey quality. This does not smell like any of the other seafaring/pirate ship blends I have tried. It smells like a giant log of driftwood in a seaside garden, where the salty breeze carries the smell of seaweed. It definitely takes on more of an aquatic feel as it sits on my skin. I will be very interested to see how this settles and ages. ETA on 6/12/13: After a couple of initial tries, I put this up on my sales page because it was just too weird for me, LOL. Last night I decided to try it again and man! I'm glad I did. It has smoothed out considerably and, while still unusual, it really smells good to me now. And I love the fact that nothing else in my collection smells remotely like it. I've removed it from my sales page.

With patchouli, white jasmine, and glimmering golden musk. This stuff is gorgeous. It smells...round, and golden, and only slightly sweet. I get peach for sure, and bergamot's distinctive presence, and both are rounded out quite beautifully by the combination of the musky patch and the jasmine, although I don't pick up those notes individually once the gloss is on my hair. In fact, "white jasmine" is not registering as jasmine at all. I hope we see more of this note! The throw is minimal, so this would be very nice for fragrance-sensitive environments. I can smell it if I put my hair up to my nose. As with all the glosses, my hair is shiny, full, et cetera too. Fabulous stuff.