Ishtar

In the same vein as BPAL's other Chinese New Year blends: light, fruity, crisp, and a little sweet. I can distinctly smell the pine resin and the cypress, but there is nothing sharp about them. If anything, they reinforce the airiness and the crispness of Metal Tiger, especially when paired with the freshness of the bamboo. If at first the citrus and peach make their presence known, after drydown it is the lychee and the plum that come to the forefront. The dragon's blood warms up the scent while the peach softens it, adding roundness and juiciness to the blend. In my palmares of Asian-inspired BPALs, I rate Metal Tiger a very close second to Fire Pig.

This review is for the 2009 version. Rose is one of my favourite notes, and I usually fare well with straighforward rose blends like London or Moon Rose. Peacock Queen is a perfectly lovely scent. Unfortunately, it also happens to smell exactly like the bath salts my mother used to buy when I was a child. So now that's all I can think about when I wear Peacock Queen: bath salts, of the garishly pink-coloured variety. Not very haughty - or imperious - as far as scent memories go, if you ask me...

On paper, this should have been perfect: musk, some of my favourite fruits, and orange blossom honey (on a completely unrelated note, if you ever find orange blossom honey in a store, buy the biggest jar you can get, it's fantastic!) Alas, it was not meant to be. When I first received my bottle, Berry Moon was, I am sorry to say, actively nasty on me: plasticky and sour, with a heavy overripe fruit note drowning the wispy musk underneath. A year of extra aging did it a lot of good, allowing the fruit to settle and the honey note to develop. It's warm, bright, almost playful, definitely uplifting. I would have loved for the musk to be more present, though; as it is, the blend seems to still lack a solid foundation on which to pile all this honeyed fruity goodness. I may attempt a few layering experiments with Berry Moon, or I may send it on its merry way, as it seems to do magical things on other people - might as well share it with those who love it!

The scent is of goat’s milk, ripe fig, and a hint of sweet myrrh. Back in 2009, I decided not to review this scent right after receiving it, because there was a sour note in it that was off-putting to me. However, I thought some aging could solve the problem, so I put my decant away and more or less forgot about it. More than a year later, I am pleased to report that the sourness is indeed completely gone. Instead, I am treated to a soft, sugared milk note with a hint of fruit - fairly similar to Boo!, only much more subdued. This will be absolutely perfect for days when Boo! feels too strong and sweet. Wecome back to the regular rotation, Nonae Caprotina - we're glad to have you back

Being a huge fan of Montresor, I got an imp of this hoping I would get the same rich, realistic wine note from it. Besides, a hint of plum, rose, spice and incense is always a plus in my book. Sadly, the Zadok Allen Vineyard goes through a deeply smokey stage, before drying down to a toned-down version of Midnight Kiss - not unpleasant, but nothing that sings on my skin either. Since smokey/burnt notes really do not work on me, I am afraid it is off to swaps with this one...

On my skin, the fizziest BPAL ever is Joulumuori, hands down - it starts off quite foody and rich, but after complete drydown, all that's left behind is fizzy lemon mead.

Wolf's Heart smells and feels very peaceful and uplifting to me - slightly fruity, sweet and herbal; I agree with Liitle Bird that the smell is reminiscent of orange juice. As a first-time business owner, I can use all the fortitude I can get, and it sounded like this blend would be perfect for that. I wear a tiny dab on my chakra points when I need to overcome the occasional entrepreneurial panic episode. Most of the time though, I use it to anoint my computer or my phone when I need to send a tough email or make a difficult phone call. So far it has worked quite well - I do tend to be fairly resolute anyway, but Wolf's Heart gives me that extra kick in the rear when I'm up against a difficult or uncomfortable situation. I find it easier to focus my intent and work up my nerve when I use it. More specifically, it seems to help me see how the request, offer or inquiry I am about to make is entirely legitimate (for instance if I need to phone a client who is stalling or who owes me money, or if I want to approach someone who's more established in my field than I am), and how standing my ground will ultimately benefit all parties involved. It helps me set and uphold healthy boundaries, and gives me confidence that I am acting in both my and my clients' best interest. So far, I am very happy with this oil

For the past few weeks, I have been wearing Sol Invictus in combination with other scents (there's just not enough time in the day to test everything when the Yule season rolls around!) and so far, I have really liked it. Tonight, I decided to give it a proper test, without any other fragrances to interfere with it. Wet on my skin, Sol Invictus is a big burst of happy, sunny citrus - mostly orange, even though it is not listed as a component per se. This opening citrus blast is very similar to Tarot: The Sun, which sadly means I won't be getting a bottle as my boyfriend couldn't stand The Sun on me. Uh oh... as the oil dries down, a pronounced soapiness pushes its way to the forefront, completely drowning what little amber and frankincense was beginning to emerge. This can't be good, unless it is a very fleeting phase... Unfortunately, the soapiness is here to stay, which is a shame as the ambery, slightly spicy citrus underneath it could be really stunning. Given that the decant has had ample time to rest after shipping and recombine by now, I guess it's not going to change markedly in the near future. Off to swaps, regretfully..

Just realised that I had never reviewd Archangel Winter, for some reason - now that mine is on its way to a better home, it's time to dig up my notes! In the imp and wet, this was strangely astringent, and yes, piercing. It is not exactly soapy, but for some reason, it smells like powdered laundry detergent. The drydown phase brings out a rather high-pitched cologne note and, strangely, an undercurrent of something...salty? In any case, this is very different from what I was expecting, and it doesn't really register as a snow or ice scent to my nose. I guess I was seduced by the description, as I love the Lab's snow notes, but this only goes to show, once again, that I can't wear ozone.

Blackberry Jam & Scones doesn't play nice with my chemistry. Overwhelmingly sweet in the imp, it goes sour and almost chemical-smelling on my skin, before turning into a more realistic blackberry note after drydown. The berry note could actually be quite nice, but it is beaten into submission by a very, ahem, assertive cake note reminiscent of the Knave of Hearts - a little burnt, a little yeasty, nothing downright unpleasant but a tad overpowering to wear all day. I can see how this could be gorgeous, fun and summery on someone else, though - hopefully the next forumite it's going to live with will love it!

Sadness. This must be the first cinnamon blend in the history of perfumery that doesn't work on me. It may well be the ginger that makes it too sharp - whatever it is, Saw-Scaled Viper is by no means horrible on me, but it's not nearly as good as extra-spicy Snake Oil ought to be. I will re-test in a few days, and if it stays the same, this little Viper may have to coil itself up in my Swaps box until I find it a better home.

Both in the imp and wet on my skin, Joulumuori is a robust, bold scent. The prune and spices are at the forefront, and in the background something reminds me of the grainy texture of the riisipuuro, if that makes any sense. The overall feel is foody and warm, without being overly sweet. It's a hearty, stick-to-your-ribs concoction, perfect for a cold climate. The sima becomes more and more noticeable as the oil dries down, until suddenly all the other notes vanish, and all that's left is a fizzy lemon scent. Now I love lemon, but here the fizziness is so pronounced that it is a little hard to wear (although I am amazed that Beth manages to replicate fizziness in perfume form - how does she do that?!?) I will Joulumuori another try to see if the other notes get more of a chance to stick around after drydown. If it still doesn't play nice with my chemistry, I will send it to my Finnish friend with whom I brewed a batch of homemade sima a few years back - I am sure that the concept alone will make her happy

On me, Snow-Flakes is a softer, minty Snow White. The resemblance between the two is really striking, at least for the first half-hour or so. Past that stage, the scent becomes greener and more aquatic, and I have to say that it evolves in a very neat way. No, neat is not strong enough, make that fascinating: to my nose, the notes remain the same throughout drydown (as far as I can tell, they don't morph, fade, or amp), but as they dry, it's as if they recombined on my skin to take the blend in a different direction. Exact same notes, only in a different permutation - and voila, a different scent. Fascinating, I tell you. After complete drydown, the overall feel or "aura" still reminds me of Snow White, but if I smell my skin up close - which I gladly do since this is so lovely - the watery green scent is actually very reminiscent of Szepasszony, one of the precious few aquatics that I truly love. Crystalline, airy and pure as driven snow... Snow-Flakes is a thing of beauty. Between this and Pink Snowballs, I will be cherishing this year's variations on the Snow White theme - they are all gorgeous.

Well, drat. Unlike many reviewers, I love the caramel in Now Winter Nights Enlarge. The first 5 minutes after applying are pretty much all caramel, and what a delicious, freshly-made, vibrant caramel it is! Sadly, it doesn't last, and all too soon it is replaced by a pungent concoction of dirty red musk and overpowering ylang-ylang. Let me tell you, the result is not pretty. After complete drydown, the caramel makes a comeback. Unfortunately, it must have been kept on the stove during its little disappearing act, because it now smells burnt - either that, or the patchouli has decided to come out and play, and its earthiness combined with the caramel adds a smoky note to the blend. A careful sniff several hours later confirms that the patchouli does indeed play a major role in this scent, and it's quite a beautiful patchouli note, too. Now Winter Nights Enlarge shows a lot of potential in its individual notes - I think it could even be stunning after some serious aging. However, as it is, it just smells off on me, and I don't know if I feel like waiting a year or two to see if it improves with age. More than likely, this will be a swap.

Out of the imp, the fabled Ded Moroz smells predominantly of sage - a wonderfully good sage, at that. Initial impression right after applying: a hint of mint melds beautifully with the sage. It's an unusual, almost playful combination that in my mind's eye translates into sparkly, silvery swirls. So far Ded Moroz is very light - almost faint - suprisingly enough for an amber/wood blend. Smelling my skin up close, I notice that Ded Moroz is one of these scents that take on a different character depending on where it has been applied. The crook of my elbow has retained the fresh sage and mint of the wet stage. The inside of my arm is all white amber and rosewood, whereas on the opposite side, the golden amber is blooming into a rich, honeyed, almost fruity note. Really, the ambers are lovely in this - pity they're so faint. I think I would enjoy Ded Moroz more if it were a little stronger. As it is, it is a gorgeous scent with a very distinct personality, yet I feel like I am missing out on its more subtle aspects because of the lack of throw. I will definitely wear it again in a few days, to see if under different conditions the deeper notes such as the teak and the moss come out more and make this blend a bit more robust.

For some reason, I was instinctively drawn to Boo - I gave in and ordered a bottle unsniffed without even waiting for my (several) decants of it to arrive! I am now really glad I did, as I do love this scent! In the bottle, Boo is intensely sweet vanilla, with the addition of a cream note that smells like the real thing - neither sour nor buttery, but somewhere in between. The fresh, crisp linen provides some relief from the sweetness. On my skin, the various components combine beautifully into a heady, thick vanilla. It is very sweet but not sugary, which works very well with my chemistry. This is the kind of scent that could have turned plasticky, burnt, or fit for a 5 year old, but it really sings on my skin. The throw is quite something, so use a light hand when applying unless you don't mind heralding your arrival with perfume! In a way, Boo brings me back to the earlier days of BPAL, when scents didn't have a million exotic notes but were just as fun, intoxicating and mesmerizing as they are today. A classic in my book, and a must-try for all vanilla lovers.

A popular holy day beverage in 18th century Ireland: roasted apples mashed into warmed milk and ale, with nutmeg, sugar, ginger, and clove. In the bottle, apple with mulling spices and a clearly recognisable milk note - this is the first time I smell a scent where mil is such a distinct component, as opposed to a creamy undertone. The ale note doesn't register immediately, but is definitely there. On my skin, Lambs-Wool is a surprisingly soft scent. Although the apple is fresh and crisp, the milk tones it down considerably. The ale, which could potentially have brought some sharpness or bitterness to the blend, is nowhere to be seen. The spices are on the milder side as well, quite reminiscent of those in my beloved Pumpkin Patch I. After drydown, I am left with a well-rounded spicy apple smell that tends to sit on my skin rather than meld with my natural scent like most fruity/spicy BPALs. The Lab's apple note is pretty much fail-proof on me and this is no exception. Objectively speaking, Lambs-Wool is a lovely scent. However, after trying it a couple of times, I am beginning to suspect that I prefer my apple cider-type blends with a bit more of an edge - this may be too soft and typically holiday-ish for me to wear often.

For what it's worth, I do find Tintagel very festive and evocative of the big banquets halls of yore - I wear it pretty much every time I entertain guests. I think it's a great choice for Thanksgiving!

This is absolutely delightful. On my skin, the similarities to Snow White are obvious, but Pink Snowballs is much softer - Snow White has a lot of throw and can get a little high-pitched in the early stages, but this is smooth, rounded and soft. A pink cashmere cardigan of a scent. The rose note is very faint - and this is coming from someone who both loves and amps rose in most blends. Overall... dare I say it?... Pink Snowball is even better on me than Snow White. I tend to prefer scents that stay close to the skin so this level of throw is perfect for me, and there is zero plastic note here - not that I get much of it at all in SW, but just a hint - in this blend it reads like the green stem of the rose, crisp and refreshing. A truly lovely creation!

I bought a bottle of Feeding The Dead for ritual purposes - cake, beer and incense are three main components of the Ancient Egyptian offering to the Blessed Dead, so I knew I would be using it whether it smelled nice on me or not. In fact, the description reminded me so much of the Egyptian ritual that I was surprised to see the Dia de los Muertos-type image on the label! Regardless, I am lucky: Feeding The Dead works really well on me. In the imp, it was like buttery popcorn with a faint yeasty undertone. I was afraid it was going to go all Shill-like on me (I sometimes amp the butter/caramel component of cake scents), but I shouldn't have worried. The beer note appeared immediately after applying, its refreshing hoppiness cutting through the butteriness of the cake. After a few minutes, a fleeting hint of saltiness and a citrus note appeared out of nowhere... at first it smelled faintly of orange, then it suddenly morphed into lemon - delicious lemon cake with royal icing, and a crisp pint of the best quality pilsner next to it. After complete drydown, the beer was the first to leave, followed by the sugariness of the cake - from then on, the blend became drier and airier, as the incense finally showed up. I can picture the priests removing the offerings from the altar one by one, lighting up the incense for the final fumigations, then sweeping away the traces of their footsteps before sealing the Holy of Holies again. This is a great as a perfume, and I can also tell that it will beautifully enhance my future rituals.

Croquembouche with almond silk and a drizzle of caramel. In the vial, I mostly get almonds - but real almonds, not the "oh I so wish I were cherry" schizophrenic almond type. Wet on my skin, Bite Me is simply wonderful. Sweet and foody, yes, but taken to much more special and sophisticated levels by the presence of a beautiful rose note. My, this is gorgeous. Oh. The caramel starts amping. Now caramel can do pretty strange things on my skin (most notably make everything smell burnt), but it looks like here it's willing to play nice. It does overpower the other notes, though - this stage is not nearly as well-balanced as the initial wet phase. Thankfully, complete drydown brings back the rose and the almond, and Bite Me settles into a lovely, sweet and smooth gourmand/floral that I can't stop coming back to over and over again. It is indeed silky, very alluring and much more interesting than a simple "fun" foody scent.

Oh how interesting! It sounds like it would be a big jumble o' fruit, but there's much more than that going on below the surface. In the imp, it immediately reminded me of... pink bubblegum. But as soon as it came into contact with my skin, it started morphing - first into fruity chocolate, as several reviewers mentioned, then into something woodier (cedar?). Finally, the various fruits come to the fore. After drydown, the fig, pomegranate and a grape note all combine into a big, juicy red fruit scent. The three notes I was looking forward to the most - almond, cinnamon and apple - are MIA. It's a nice scent, but I think I was expecting something more delicate and more grown-up. I only received it earlier today, though, so I may give it a few days to settle down before trying it again.

In the imp, The Robtic Scarab smells like a classic men's cologne: fresh, a little sharp, a little metallic. Wet on my skin, it sweetens and deepens immediately, as the leather note comes to the foreground. It is surprisingly soft and fruity. After drydown, the metal becomes more noticeable, but the overall blend still reads as a traditional fragrance - given the components, I think I was expecting something more unusual. It is quite pleasant, soft and well-behaved, if a bit too masculine for me to wear regularly. At least now I know that there is nothing to fear from metallic notes, which I had been steadily avoiding up to this point.

I tried Van Van for the first time back in '04 or '05, but never got around to reviewing it. I took the new imp added to my most recent order as a sign that I was time to write a review! Funny, I remembered Van Van as one of those lemony, vaguely aquatic Voodoo blends, but there is nothing watery (and certainly nothing vague!) about this. It's in-your-face vetiver with a grassy undertone - but we're talking brown grass here, as if it had been exposed to a scorching summer sun. Ah, the lemon / lemongrass is coming out now. This is getting more similar to the Van Van I remember (good to know that I'm not losing my mind!) but it is still quite strong. Although it's not my type of scent at all, it is strangely appealing to me, especially once the raging vetiver calms down and the citrussy / herbal notes show up. After it dries down completely, the combination of notes does smell like strong, earthy patchouli. It is brown / green in feel and it is rather appeasing indeed. Not something that I would wear as a perfume though, and when it comes to other uses, I have some TALs whose scents I much prefer to this.

This is already quite fascinating in the imp - much livelier and sweeter than I would have expected. The first thing that hits me is a green blast of moss and decaying vegetation, then big, bold, humid blooms and finally the sweet sharpness of the booze. I can taste the bourbon at the back of my throat when I exhale. All of this combined smells much nicer and more joyful than it sounds, but I have absolutely no idea what direction is scent is going to go on me. Wet on my skin: RUM! Rum and moss. A strange combination, but not unpleasant. The bourbon and florals return, amping the sweetness again and making the whole thing surprisingly perfumy, with an appealing spiciness to it. I am not getting much dirt, either that or it agrees with my skin much better than I thought it would. As Jazz Funeral dries down, something citrussy comes to the forefront. If I didn't have the notes, I would guess there's a drop of lemon in here, but it may just be the flower + moss + spice that my nose interprets as lemon. This is such an interesting scent! It's not my style, but I can't seem to stop sniffing it. To me it has the same feel as an aquatic, yet it's not watery. I probably wouldn't wear it much, but I am really glad I got to try it as it's one of those "journey in a vial" type of blends. Well done Lab!