Ishtar

Oh wow, this is a surprise BPAL hit for me! I would NEVER have ordered Thanatopsis for myself - too dark, too masculine-sounding, and I am not into earthy scents. But this? This is fantastic! Wet, it is all pine, all the time. Thankfully, this is a very true pine note, not "cleaning product" pine or pine pitch (thankfully, as the scent of pine pitch makes me queasy). The juniper makes its presence known upon drydown, making the blend airier and fresher. There's also a tiny hint of saltiness in the background, or maybe I'm just imagining this because the overall feel to me is that of a sea breeze, refreshing and bracing. This is the smell of sitting by a cliff by the ocean on a breezy afternoon, surrounded by shrubs and low vegetation, with the edge of a pine grove right across the path. It is a wonderfully natural and outdoorsy scent - Thanatopsis could be the piney counterpart of my beloved Tombstone's cedar. Just lovely, and I have a feeling it will lend itself beautifully to layering experiments.

In the imp, I can clearly smell the gardenia, the heliotrope, the soft warmth of the amber and an undercurrent of heady red musk. No vanilla, rose or orange to speak of, at least to my nose. Right after touching my skin, the gardenia goes on a rampage and beats all the other notes into submission. Thankfully, it calms down pretty fast, which gives the amber, the heliotrope and the rose a chance to come to the forefront. As The Hauted Palace dries down, the red musk becomes more prominent, lending extra depth and sensuality to the blend. This definitely has a bright "solar" feel, especially when the vanilla and the orange finally come out to play. Yet, in spite of all its olfactory warmth, there is something remote, almost haughty about this scent. It is beautiful, sophisticated, even surprisingly delicate for a red musk blend (red musk tends to be less than subtle on me!), and the amber in this is particularly gorgeous. But there is something about the mood of The Haunted Palace that may prevent me from wearing it very often. I might need to re-test it a couple of times, or I may just pass it on to the next person who'd like to try this remarkably skillful scent.

My goodness! The Lab's violet note has broken my heart many times in the past, but Faith just put an end to my quest for a BPAL violet that works on me. This is a deceptively simple blend - it's sweet and girly and frilly and deep and enthralling and paradoxical Yes, it is very sugary and does turn powdery, but it is never cloying (I do love sweet and powdery scents mind you...) Miraculously, the sugar note stays true on my skin instead of smelling burnt as it so often does. Hurray! I can see the comparisons to Antique Lace, but Faith reminds me even more strongly of Boo, if you replaced the vanilla with violet. Faith is one of these scents that create a subtle cloud of fragrance around you - it may not seem like it has much throw, but you'll keep catching whiffs of it surrounding you, and you'll still smell it on your coat or your pillow days later. A bottle is definitely in order.

(May have been mentioned before but it's not on Ivyandpeony's list, so...) On my skin, Eos is very close to Tamamo-No-Mae. A bit sweeter and creamier, but the drydown is really similar to T-N-M. Besides, Eos is a gorgeous GC that deserves more love!

Another suggestion for fellow Lolita Lempicka lovers: with its progression from sugary liquorice to sweet floral to powdery gourmand, La Befana reminds me a lot of her first perfume (the one that comes in an apple-shaped bottle and is sometimes called The First Fragrance).

Being a big orchid and tiare fan, I was hoping for an exotic, beachy, suntan lotion- like scent. Unfortunately, like many reviewers have mentioned, Marae is all gardenia, all the time. Not that I have anything against gardenia, but in this blend it's so prominent that the other notes never get a chance to come out and play. I can detect a faint earthiness every now and then, but it's no match for the giant crazy gardenia - no creamy orchid, no luscious coconutty monoi, and no incense to speak of. Off to swaps!

Oh wow, Montresor has aged so beautifully! When I first tried it 2 years ago, I found it a bit disjointed and rather underwhelming. I could see what this scent was aiming for, but the intended result never materialised on me. Well, like any true Medoc, it just needed to age, undisturbed, for a few years. Still winey and a little sharp in the bottle, then it starts opening up as soon as it touches my skin. Rich vanilla and dry oak combine into a deep, almost tannic base that grounds an absolutely delectable blackcurrant note. This is eerily similar to a beautiful red wine indeed - a bit austere in the bottle, then progressively blossoming into an admirably well-balanced palette of vanilla, oak and dark berries. Fruit-forward and easy to love, with just enough tannin to keep it elegant and complex. A true beauty.

I can hardly think of a more enticing description than that of Black Opal... so intriguing and promising! Add to that the fact that I'm a big fan of Black Pearl, Black Phoenix and other "Black" BPAL blends, and you'll get a faint idea of how I was excited about this scent. Well, it hated me. Sadness. In the imp, sweet vanilla and a cool undertone made for a very interesting contrast. But as soon as it touched my skin, Black Opal turned dusty and soapy at once (strange, I know!) Not the kind of soapiness that you sometimes get from white florals, mind you - more like a high-pitched mineral note that pierces through the powderiness. Verdict after several tries: No way this is going to work on me. Too bad, it sounded so interesting!

You know that thread in BPAL chatter about blends that broke your heart? Sophia would be my pick. Going by notes alone, this should have been the perfect blend for me. Alas, it was not meant to be. In the imp, Sophia smelled a bit sharp, but this happens often with lavender so I did not let that worry me. For a few seconds after I applied, it seemed like it was going to be nice enough, but then things took a turn for the worse, alternating between sour and cloying as it dried. One of the very few BPALs I've had to wash off. I wanted to love it so much that I ended up using it as a bath oil rather than swapping it away, and at least that allowed me to enjoy some of the soft, fresh floral scent with a hint of spice that I was expecting from the description.

Another of those deceptively simple blends. On the surface, there's not much going on: laundry softener, freshly washed linen drying in a warm summer breeze. Dirty is fresh, straightforward, uncomplicated. And yet... there is a lot of artistry to this scent. It is incredibly well-balanced and retains it happy, carefree, luminous feel throughout every single phase of its evolution. You know how many of these so-called "light, fresh" scents actually veer into piercing and/or overpowering territory, to the point where they become headache-inducing or make you feel a bit queasy? There is none of that here. As Dirty dries down, the laundry soap notes recede in the background, and are replaced with an invigorating twist of citrus, balanced by the barest hint of herbalness. This is a gorgeous blend well worth trying even if, like myself, you're not a fresh scent aficionado. You may be very pleasantly surprised!

Cathode is not a scent I would have picked for myself, it came as a free sample from the Lab. I was weary of trying it - aquatics and "fresh" blends are not my friends, but I was pleasantly surprised at how much I liked this. Right after applying, the mint is quite noticeable, but it is soft and muted - nothing piercing or high-pitched, and certainly nothing "electric" in spite of the description. Fresh, clean and aquatic, yet very wearable even with my wonky chemistry. As it dries down, the ambergris becomes more prominent, as does the moss. It keeps mellowing, until I am eventually left with a light woody/watery scent that is quite soft and soothing. If you like mint and/or fresh scents but don't have a good track record with aquatic blends, consider giving Cathode a try!

I have such a conflicted relationship with Magdalene! I love each individual note in it, but I keep falling in and out of love with the way they combine in this blend. I am very picky when it comes to upgrading to 5ml, so obviously at some point I fell for it pretty hard... and then I spent the next few months wondering why. There's no question that when it works, it works very well - soft, sophisticated, wistful... it is extremely pretty. But then there are days like today when the early stages are nondescript wilting flowers, and the drydown is purely herbal, quite reminiscent of Arcana (which I love, but I enjoy the journey to the herbal drydown with Arcana much more than with Magdalene). The schizophrenic nature of this blend is quite puzzling, really

Wow, yet another blend that I've had forever, yet never got around to reviewing (bad Ishtar, bad!) Trying it tonight for the first time in a long while, I guess that it has mellowed quite a bit with age, as I remembered it as being spicier and more fiery. Right after applying, the wet stage is a little reminiscent of an alcohol-based perfume - there is a "cologne" feel to it, but fear not: this is crazy good cologne! As the spices come out to play, this opening note soon gives way to a stunningly beautiful stage that, to me, is the olfactory embodiment of warmth. Not the warmth of the sun, not the warmth of flushed skin... just warmth as a concept, if that makes any sense. The next stage takes us on a funny little roller-coaster ride: first, The Living Flame becomes increasingly luminous and airy, almost high-pitched, then all of a sudden it morphs into a warm, sweet, comforting fruity/floral that is so well blended that I still cannot pick out individual notes. After complete drydown, The Living Flame feels very grown-up, mature and sedate. It is surprisingly light for such a complex, morphing scent, and I suspect that it's not going to last too long on my skin. Who cares, it is beautiful from beginning to end, so I certainly don't mind reapplying often!

How come I've never reviewed Vixen?!? I've had this scent forever - and I really like it too! - so it's just... weird that I never posted this review. Anyway, please keep in mind that my imp of Vixen is very well aged - we're talking several years here, people. What can I say, I'm just not a slatherer! So yes, it has mellowed somewhat with age, but in spite of that, it's still an IN YOUR FACE kind of blend. A little bit goes a loooong way with this one. On my skin, Vixen is quite sweet and fruity, almost like fortified wine that's been cooked down for so long that all the alcohol is gone and all you're left with is a rich, sticky, concentrated brew. Once the initial jolt of ginger, orange and patchouli dissipates a bit, Vixen can go either of two ways: either it surrounds me with a warm, exotic and highly sexual cloud of deliciousness, or it goes murky, cloying and frankly overpowering. As of late, thankfully, it's mostly been the former, and when it's good, it's more than good enough for me to overlook the few fits of murkiness and keep it in my collection. It has tonnes of throw, and for the synesthestes among us, it is red. Very very red.

I ordered Pontarlier as an homage to my late father, who was born a few kilometres away from that city. Even though I like all the individual notes listed, I am not particularly drawn to fresh, green perfumes so I really ordered this for the name alone. I was very pleasantly surprised to discover that not only do I genuinely like this scent, it is also very fitting for the city it represents. Pontarlier and its region, Franche-Comte, are not places that tourists visit when they go to France. There is little to see there, other than the Peugeot museum and factories. People from Franche-Comte have a reputation for being hard-working, reliable and a little taciturn. Winters can be harsh and it is not uncommon for smaller hamlets in the countryside to be snowed in, virtually cut off from the rest of the country, for extended periods of time. And then... then spring begins and it is as if the entire region is in bloom. The gently rolling hills, the meadows, the woods, everything is covered in blossoms and new vegetation. Crocus, irises, daffodils, narcissus, poppies, ferns... all manners of wildflowers, all shades of green soften the landscape and put a smile on everyone's face. Pontarlier smells like that very first day when the flowers bloom: green, crisp, airy. There is nothing flashy about this scent, just the promise of spring and the anticipation of the nice days to come. It is simple, humble and full of hope. I will cherish this scent and I know that my dad would have loved it too. He would have been very happy that someone could understand the beauty of his birthplace so well. Rest in peace, dad. I miss you and I love you.

I can't believe that I never reviewed this! This is one of my favourite BPAL blends. I missed the release of this oil back in 2005, but it sounded so great that I hunted down three separate decants. Needless to say, they are well-aged by now and I was surprised (very pleasantly so) to see that they have retained their intensity. Actually, three years of cellaring have turned 13 into something even more divine than I remembered! Deeper, more chocolaty and better-rounded now that the bright citrus notes have mellowed with age. When I first got it, 13 seemed to be more changeable depending on my chemistry. It also was predominantly a tea blend, with sugary white chocolate in the background and high-pitched citrus hovering over the base notes. I loved it back then, but I had to be in the right mood to wear it. The aged 13 is unmistakably all about the chocolate, with a very harmonious base of tea and soft fruit notes, their freshness cutting through the sweetness of the white chocolate. The iris has become stunningly beautiful and adds a touch of sophistication to an otherwise playful scent. This is lovely and not cloying in the least, which is a good thing because... Major Throw alert!!! Not that there is anything wrong with that, but if you are a dabber, I would recommend applying with an even lighter hand than usual. As for me, I am currently sitting in a beautiful cloud of 13 and loving every second of it!

Oh this is absolutely lovely! I have been on an incense/resin kick as of late and Schwarzer Mond is all I wanted in this department and then some. I can definitely see where people get the cola note from. There is indeed something here that is almost effervescent, almost peppery, almost sweet... but not quite. Most of all, there is darkness in this blend. Not in the sinister sense of the word, mind you. But this smells to me like a very "matte" oil, an oil that absorbs light and reflects none. After complete drydown, the myrrh, opoponax and amber come to languidly rest on a soft pillow of aged patchouli. Deep, spicy, terribly sophisticated. A truly timeless scent that rivals the greatest classic fragrances thanks to its elegance and depth. Hats off to you, Brian.

For the first hour or so, Lyonesse is predominantly aquatic with a healthy dose of vanilla on me. Unusual, appealing and a little strange... Even though there is no saltiness to it, Lyonesse is definitely a marine scent. We are not talking pond or river here; this aquatic is all about the ocean. In spite of the strong shot of vanilla, there is nothing gourmand about this blend. In fact, the vanilla here reminds me of Tombstone- dry, thin, almost desolate. Because of the stark contrast between this dryness and the marine notes, it almost feels like the vanilla does not belong here and indeed, it never really mingles with the other components. What a paradoxical, yet beautiful blend! It dries down to a gorgeous unisex vanilla scent, with something animalistic lurking in the background. It is both warm and cool, both mysterious and comforting. In spite of its apparent contradictions, Lyonesse is lovely and a definite keeper!

Hi there and welcome to the boards! Would you happen to be in Vancouver, by any chance? If so, I will see you at the show next month! We have a few The Cure resident experts (FireInCairo, where are you?), but in the meantime, may I suggest... well, Cairo for the obvious association! Could you tell us what your favourite songs are and what you really love about them? Like you said, their music is so diverse and rich that it is hard to isolate one aspect in particular... for instance, Last Dance to me really embodies that dreaminess that you mentioned and for me, the scent of this song is Haunted. But your mileage may (and will!) vary

Cancer 2007, my dear, you are quite the changeable scent and I enjoy every second of your many phases! Fresh and green in the imp, sweet and floral when wet, aquatic and cooling on drydown and refreshingly flowery once you start to fade... seriously, how do you do that? Add to this a surprising staying power for such a light scent (I can still smell it after 12 hours!) and you have a winning combination in my book! I loved the original Cancer and was sad to see it go but this new interpretation is a more-than-worthy replacement. Keeper, I say!

For some reason, the notes in the Great Sword of War keep eluding me. I know that I love this blend, but don't ask me why because I can never remember what is in it! In the vial, it smells remarkably similar to orange-filled chocolate. Potent, terribly seductive. A very interesting combination of dark cocoa and airy citrusy notes. On my skin, the chocolate disappears instantly (drat!), as does the mandarin. This is good news, for as much as I love their smell, both mandarin and tangerine can do obnoxious things with my chemistry. Instead, I am left with... a very hard scent to describe. I am rarely at a loss for words, yet the Great Sword of War leaves me speechless. Yes, it is that good, and that mysterious. The red musk is prominent but not aggressively so. Would it help any if I compared it to a darker Friday the Thirteenth (1st edition with the tangerine, mandarine and tea)? A definite keeper! .

I love the Lab's fruity/floral blends and The Hanging Gardens is no exception. While I was primarily attracted to the concept behind the scent, many of its notes rank among my favourites: ebony, fig, pear, rose... the only exceptions were the fir and gardenia, but I am pleased to say that they are behaving today! Initially, the most prominent notes are fig and plumeria. This is a joyous scent, exuberant and brimming with life. It goes on sweet and strong, definitely one of those bold, juicy BPALs! As the oil dries, the gardenia, rose and woods come out and play. Still sweet but less overtly fruity. I think I am beginning to get the "gardens by night" side of the concept: it is getting darker and deeper. Stillness descends on the lush gardens. There is something almost reverent about this blend. For such a fruity blend, this is as far as you can imagine from a childish or candy-like scent. Several reviewers mentioned seeing themselves walking through the Gardens and progressively taking in the scent of the different plants. I completely agree. This is one of the blends that conjure very powerful imagery. No wonder it is in the Wanderlust category: not only does it immerse you in the extravagant vegetation of the Gardens, it also takes you on a long, leisurely walk so that you can appreciate all they have to offer. By the time you are done, the soft darkness of a balmy night surrounds you and you get to experience perfect stillness and direct connection to all of creation. Bliss.

In the imp and wet on my skin, Ouija was pale roses- and lots of them. I do not tend to particularly amp rose notes, but for a while they were all I could smell. The slightest hint of woodiness starting coming through upon drydown, accompanied by a faint fruity undertone that may well have been the osmanthus. Yet for the most part, it remained a straightforward tea rose scent throughout, with light throw and staying power. I love rose blends but I tend to like them a little brighter than this. London and Moon Rose are still my golden standards in this category so I shall send Ouija to a new home, even though it is indeed a beautiful, delicate scent.

The Sun was one of my favourite Tarot oils; I can't believe I never got around to reviewing it. I am going by memory here, as I parted with my bottle a long time ago - my boyfriend could not stand this scent on me, alas. The Sun was all soft orange on my skin. A very uplifting and youthful blend, beautifully rounded by mellow amber and bright heliotrope. Definitely a happy, contented scent reminiscent of extremely good quality orange-flavoured hard candy. Like most Tarot oils, the Sun was quite complex and layered; yet it stayed true to its scent in the bottle and did not seem to morph much on my skin. For all the rich notes in this blend, it was soft and light with average throw and faded faster than most BPAL on me.

When I first tried Diwali several months ago, I found it nice but not earth-shattering. Revisiting it tonight in order to review it, I was amazed at how much better it was than what I remembered. In the vial: sweet, fruity, gorgeous! Wet on my skin: oh, the creamier notes in this are beautiful. Here is the coconut, and the almond milk. I thought Diwali was going to be a big, bold blend but this is actually very gentle. There is a serenity to this first stage that is quite remarkable. The fruity notes start coming out after the half-hour mark. They are so well-blended that it is very difficult to tell them apart. After complete drydown, the incense and spices make their presence known, once again in the gentlest of ways. What a superbly well-rounded blend this is! Interestingly enough given that there is no fig in the description, the feel and even the drydown of Diwali are almost identical to those of a fig blend I used to buy when I lived in France. I never found anything equivalent and it was discontinued a few years ago, much to my chagrin. Needless to say, I am very happy to have found such a close equivalent in Diwali! Must find more!