gloame

Sun-yellow petals thrusting through asphalt, a lilting touch of white musk, crisp juniper, blackcurrant bud, and ambrette seed. I got to attend in person for the first time in my BPAL career thanks to a recent move to OC, California, and I was so freaking stoked to go to a lunacy event that I just basically flailed around smelling everything and being overly excited without a solid plan. I WILL ADMIT that upon reading the description for Dandelions & Concrete that I was not expecting to like it. I was expecting greenery and oil on asphalt — greenery I like, asphalt I wasn't sure about. Okay, but no. Not at all. This smells so fresh and uplifting. My husband got to it first in the lineup, and was all "Oh this one's nice," and I sniffed, and was like, "Wow, yeah, it's so spring!" In the bottle: Sharp, green juniper and smoothed-over new flower blooms... really new blooms, still green and kinda bud-y, and which have been stepped on by rubber-soled sneakers. On my skin: Less sharp, the juniper gets smoothed-over, too. Also stepped-on. The green opens up and it begins to smell yellow. It's bright, vibrant, but mature and self-assured. It's optimistic, but realistic. I really really like this. Low throw, but seems to be lasting. The more I smell it on my skin, the more I really like it. Glad I bought a bottle. And Beth was so nice! UGH I AM HAPPY ABOUT EVERYTHING TODAY. Edit to add where I'd wear this: Shoe shopping for espadrilles in Spain, early April

Irish whiskey, granulated sugar, brown sugar, whipped cream, buttercream and coffee. I got this yesterday from the Long Beach Midsummer Scream fest. As you might expect from the notes, this is indeed reminiscent of Miskatonic University. It's better, though. The coffee is darker and richer—a French Roast to Miskatonic University's medium roast. The cream is smooth without being little-girl-lip-balm or Bath-and-Body-Works-esque. I'm actually not a fan of Irish Whiskey, but this is lovely. I'd for sure drink it. As it dries, I do get the dreaded play-doh note in some sniffs—just as I sometimes did with MU—but I didn't always get it and I really don't know why it sometimes goes play-doh and not others. Menstrual cycle, maybe? I liked Miskatonic University a lot, but it never quite worked for my skin. I think this is one that works better for me and I like it more. Worth trying if MU's one of your faves! Where I'd wear this: Last days of summer, walking through Mexico City

Vetiver and lubricant painted over distressed plastic. I didn't pick this one up, but I did test it at the Midsummer Scream yesterday. Going off my memories to help others who may find a bottle on forums/Ebay and want to try it. On first sniff, this was like a mechanic's shop. The lubricant had that... blackened with skidding tires vibe to it. It smelled like chemical smoke, you know, the kind that comes up blue instead of grey when it's burning. Howeverrrrr! On drydown, it was actually kind of lovely. I couldn't place the notes, but it smelled more... smooth and natural. Less chemical and frightening. It had a low throw, but I found it still on my skin when I got home about 7 hours later. I also think my cycle could be throwing off my interpretation of this because a lot of the Act IV Carnavals smelled like bubblegum to me yesterday, and I don't think they normally would. So take this review for what it's worth! Where I'd wear it: Talladega tailgating ;P

Lilith “All-Night Party Bean” Barrial begged us to allow her to stay up past midnight and ring in the New Year at the Los Angeles Zoo with her oldest friend Novi. How could we refuse? We all danced, we sang, we drank apple cider, and we partied all night long. They would have stayed until the dawn if the zoo had not kicked us out. You know what they say, you don’t have to go home but the monkeys want you to leave. Vanilla cake with sprinkles and red velvet cupcakes, with a touch of climbing wisteria and sparkling apple cider. At first, quite sharp, I think from the wisteria mixing with cider. Then it mellows into this lovely, fun sweet scent with sweet, soft wisteria backed by just a hint of cider. This was the only Lilith/Fatherhood I bought this year and it was a huge surprise to me. I would never have expected to go for something with sprinkles in it, but this works. It's much more ladylike than girly once it settles. Will probably get even better with age. Low throw. Where I'd wear this: New Year's Eve party with my niece

Harvest Moon is celebrated in almost every culture, and the bounty of the season is marked in a myriad of ways. Harvest Moon touches the Equinox, the festival of Janus, the culmination of Homowo, the crying of the neck in Cornwall, and the Womens Festival of the Moon. This is a day that celebrates abundance and beauty, fertility and progress, and the light of this full moon blesses new undertakings and reunites lost loves. The Harvest Moon, by definition, is the Full Moon that falls closest to the Autumnal Equinox, and thus, it shares some of that Sabbats characteristics. This Full Moon was thus named because it rises within half an hour of the suns setting, in the Northern Hemisphere, and at this time farmers are able to work longer into the night by the light of this Moon. As the year draws to a close, the Full Moon rises an average of fifty minutes later each night, with the exception of a few nights surrounding the Harvest Moon, which only rises 10-30 minutes later. This moon is also, to the human eye, the fullest and largest of the years Moons, hanging gloriously huge, yellow and low in the night sky, and many lunar illusions play tricks our eyes at this time. The Harvest ushers in many celebrations, including the Equinox and the Festival of Janus, God of Doors. Janus is the Roman Lord of Gateways, beginnings and endings, and transitions. Thus, the Harvest Moon is a time for blessing new ventures, the onset of new and progressive phases in ones life, and rites of passage into adulthood. This time of year also marks one of the Festivals of Dionysus, Lord of Ecstasy and the Vine. This Harvest lunacy combines the autumnal scents of dry leaves, mulling spices, balsam fir and spruce tips, cedar, juniper berry, clove, saffron, wild apple, sage, yarrow, and lily twined with Dionysus sacred grapes and ivy, a bounty of blackberry and pumpkin, deep russet sunflowers, the amaranth and lingum aloes of Janus, all touched by a gentle breath of festival woodsmoke and sweet wine. Picked this up at the August 2017 will-call after a quick wrist test and just now got around to trying it fully. It's really great. It has something in it that reminds me of The Jeweled Spider and I think it's the wine. Something deep-dark, spiced-sweetness, I could chew on. This is really fantastic. The best Harvest Moon I've smelled so far (2006, 2010, 2011, I think). It's an ancient Harvest Moon, before technology. A bunch of extended family and neighbors sitting around a dying fire, too drunk to realize they're freezing and stoke the flames up again. Mulled wine that's sat too long in a hot cauldron and is starting to go syrupy. It's not too sweet, not too spicy, not too dry. I really love this. Where I'd wear it: Trying to get into the headspace of a dark, medieval fantasy novel

Coffee and rum laced with allspice, nutmeg, clove, star anise, cardamom, and cinnamon gently whipped into buttercream. I picked this up yesterday at the Long Beach Midsummer Scream fest. The first sniff is very reminiscent of The Jeweled Spider from the American Gods collection. It has that 'fruited coffee' vibe. I recently switched from drinking regular coffee to fig coffee to give my adrenals a rest and this reminds me of that coffee: deep, dark, purple, but not exactly "coffee". Satisfying in a different way. There's a heaping spoon of cinnamon in here. I don't go red on my skin like I do with some cinnamon blends—which is great!—but the cinnamon definitely sits near the top of the scent for a long while. I don't get any distinct rum. On drydown, it's a lighter version of the same thing. No morphing. To me, this is a cleaner version of The Jeweled Spider. No cigarillo, but otherwise a similar stack of notes. Where I'd wear this: Autumn hay ride with friends and thermoses of spiked coffee.

Electric eucalyptus with veins of green oud, black currant, ti leaf, and mate. Picked this up straight from the Lab at the Midsummer Scream fest. This blend is pretty, clean, and fresh. Wet, it's all green tea and eucalyptus, and I was so worried for a minute. But that doesn't stick around. On drydown, it's very nice. The eucalyptus isn't overpowering. For me, at least, it's a smooth blend of the green oud and ti leaf, with just a touch of sweetness from the black currant. Not too electrified on my skin, but that's a plus for me because I don't do well with sharp greens. This has a low throw, but it decent wear length. Nice! Where I'd wear this: Summer beer gardens

Mm, like honey and red sweetness. There's a tiny bit of tang underneath, but overall this is really feminine and confident, while staying soft. It's a quiet warrioress. I really dig it. SO GLAD I remembered to bring the donation to will-call to get one of these! Where I'd wear this: On a feminine crusade

Masculine and dominant for sure. It's got a kind of green tang underneath the blood. Really interesting scent, but not my jam.

Ahh so lovely! Not too cinnamon-y, which is a good thing for me. It's very soft—an undercurrent. Not nearly as strong as I would've expected, and I wonder if the formula's been changed because others are saying it's very cinnamon. To me, the honeysuckle is forward, followed by copal and myrrh. I really love this. It smells sweet and innocent. Where I'd wear it: A girl's birthday party

Dry, spicy, warm. Definitely sensual and pleasant, but nothing that screams "Must have!" to me. Where I'd wear this: Late summer afternoon date

Started off extremely Cherry Coke, but does evolve with the dry-down. Still a bit too sweet for my tastes, but pleasant overall. Where I'd wear it: Biker bar

Smells really warm and pretty. Reminds me a bit of the Lush Godiva shampoo bar, but creamier. A definite favorite. Where I'd wear it: Date night, early summer

Smells very fresh and clean, like spring flowers. It's uplifting and pretty. I've been reaching for it a lot just for daily wear by itself. Where I'd wear it: Spring mornings

Yummy and...kind? It smells very nice, like someone who'd give you an orange currant scone. There's something magical to it, like sparkling spells zipping around. Honestly, I'm pretty sure this is what Molly Weasley's kitchen smells like at Christmas. Where I'd wear it: The Burrow, December

Super salty. Undercurrents of Easter flowers, which is lovely. It's bright, confident, happy. Low throw, seems to fade. Where I'd wear it: Easter at the beach

When I first smell this, I always think 'citrus' but then I realize it's the coolness from the hyssop (which I think is what I love so much about Snow White). It's green and fresh, but also snowy and a little bit sweetened. Very lovely. Where I'd wear it: Cold, sunny days

The best Phoenix this year. Smooth, creamy, sexy. I don't get a strong marshmallow vibe, but that's good. It's soft, but I think the almond milk comes through more as a 'softener'. I don't super love Snake Oil on its own, but I do like a lot of the blends, and this one with Snow White (which I love) is really lovely. Where I'd wear it: Casual dinner date

At willcall, I loved this one and bought it immediately. Trying it on a month or so later, it doesn't smell the same to me. I don't smell either tobacco or jasmine now—or really anything. I wonder if I got a bad batch?

Something about the Lab's cigar note really gets me. I can't say I like cigar smoke IRL, but here it just gives everything an, IDK, almost a tanginess. The goat wool too. I would never have expected to like this, but I bought it at willcall and couldn't be happier. Where I'd wear it: Summer fun fairs

On wet, it's a nice, strong floral. I love the hydrangea. It's one of those scents that makes me think I *can* do florals. As it dries, it has a really lovely kind of autumny-greenness, that reminds me of Autumn Coolness (another fave). The cocoa leaves don't give a chocolate vibe (I don't know if they're supposed to or not) but I didn't want it here. The tobacco smooths it out. This was the only Weenie I bought this year (at willcall). Love it. Where I'd wear it: Late autumn hay rides.

Cherry coke and cigarettes is exactly it! It’s warm and slightly sweet smelling, but by no means foodie. The tobacco is ages, like a man who’s been smoking his whole life and never really washes the scent all out. I like it! Unisex, warm, woody, slightly oriental. ETA 1/24/18: Warm and unusual. Such a strange scent, in the best way. It's sweet and smoky. I still like it. Where I'd wear it: New Orleans, hot summer bar hopping.

Wet, this is SUCH a juicy peach. Immediately made me want to eat one. I could practically taste it. It goes very bright, a bit sharp. It's fruity and summery, like the first part of summer when spring is just moving off. Very lovely! Does seem to fade quick, though. Where I'd wear it: Biking on a warm afternoon, through a cute city

I used to play a Druid in World of Warcraft years ago, so I felt an instant connection to this blend. It’s very green and light. I do smell the soil, but the incense is lighter than I expected (not a bad thing). Smells less like Druid and more like Herbology/Alchemy professions. ETA 1/24/18: The fertile soil is strong at first. Still very loamy. It's a lovely smell, but not one I'd wear as perfume. What I'd use it for: Honestly, I'd love this in an outdoor diffuser - here in SoCal, there's not nearly enough loamy soil smell and having this around me on a summer night would feel like home.

The more I try this one, the more I love it. It’s got something very nostalgic in it that makes me think of my childhood. It’s one of the green notes, but I don’t know what it is. The berry is light, just enough to balance the green. Very lovely. Unisex, spring, green, growing. ETA 1/24/18: I got 4 (yes, 4) frimps of this from the Lab when I went this past weekend and all four smell different. The first one smelled really sweet violet/purple berry-ish and I was like 'why did I ever like this?!' The other three are more like I thought I'd remembered: green and alive. Still, I don't love any of them as much as I did the first time I tried it in 2015. Where I'd wear this: A family outing outside, warm spring