Rouge

In the vial: A delicious mix of sharp and dry notes from the wood, and a rich foody background of pumpkin. Wet on the skin/ immediate thoughts: I recognise the woods from Miskatonic University but it's not as sweet. Development: On me, this is an enveloping, rich scent, with the wood notes dominating the others. Perfectly evocative of am autumn night and a woodland faerie returning to the forests of Arkham with a stolen child! If you like this, try: Red Lantern, Miskatonic University, Tushnamatay

I've been looking for something piratical for ages, but aquatic blends very rarely work on me. Come take me prisoner, Daiyu! In the bottle: Sweet, almost like sugar cane and jasmine. There's a juicy brightness from the Acai berry. Overall it feels very Asian. First impressions: Mm. Very sweet and floral with the berry note fading fairly quickly. There's something a little soapily astringent here too; probably the tea. Later: A couple of minutes in, wow this is a morpher! This quickly becomes an elegant, sexy floral with a creamy, luxurious undertone. Final thoughts: This is surprisingly conservative - not the bold, attention grabbing scent one might expect from the artwork and concept. It's gorgeous though! A definite keeper, and when the Carnaval opens its doors once more I will be sat in the front row for Miss Daiyu's turn on the stage. If you like this, try: Brides of Dracula

In the vial - A very strong, gutsy floral with dominnt notes of rose and bright mandarin. Wet on the skin - This smells like amber to me; a heady, rich, thick amber and deep musks. That's probbly the myrrh. Next stages - Rose starts to brighten the blend after a few minutes of wear, but like many rose blends it threatens to turn a little sour on my skin. Dry down - I seem to have escaped the curse of soapy-sour-old-lady rose. This is a beautifully sultry, deep scent for hot nights out (or in!) If you like this, try: Othello, The Lion, Seraglio, Jezebel

Vetiver is not usually a particularly good note on me except in very small doses, but maybe the neroli will brighten it a little. In the vial - Vetiver. Sooooo much vetiver. There's a lovely waft of sweet flowers as well, which stops the blend from being too heavy. Wet on the skin - Sweet and rich but with a citrusy overlay and a heavy, soporific base. This is a very resonant blend, for want of a better word. Next stages/ Dry down - Athough the blend remains balanced, ultimately the vetiver is too heavy for me, and given the mid note of sandalwood there's altogether too much dark woodiness going on for my liking. I shall keep my imp and let it age for a few months; maybe the vetiver will soften over time.

I've been looking forwards to trying this for such a long time. I love the Lab's deep red berry and currant scents so this one seems tailor made for me. Also, I have a fscination with the history of prostitution so this detour into the Wild West brings together two of my favourites. In the vial - A sublime blend of sweetly sticky amaretto and fresh plum. It's not the dark fruit of Oya, but something much fresher and lighter. Wet on the skin - At first there's hit of sweet, almost candy-like fruit before there's a full-on hit of red wine, almost as if somebody has spilled a bottle in the saloon. Underneath it all there's a breath of tantalising sugary-almond. Next stages/ dry down - I nearly typed "Bordello soon stops being sticky" but it sounded... wrong. Accidental double-entendres aside, it's true. It loses its sugaryness quite quickly and becomes a wonderfully deep and rich blend of fruit and wine. If you like this, try - Lady Macbeth, Lillith

In the vial - Soft, rosy-skinned apple with an undercurrent of dark greenery. Wet on the skin - This is lovely! The apple scent is bewitchingly delicious; I'm definitely getting a soft-fleshed red apple like a Pink Lady instead of the crisp tartness of another variety. Almost immediately there's a murky dark green note emerging which threatens to overtake the sweetness. Next stages - I very rarely like dark green notes like hemlok, but the resinous quality of the opium really balances out the dark, cool dampness of the greenery. The oleander is deceptively sweet, lending a powdery edge to the blend. Dry down - Half an hour in, the apple is fighting back against the herbs! The lovely juicy sweetness has mellowed and softened. A lovely, light but balanced daytime scent that will be wonderful for Spring.

In the vial - Woah. All vetiver, all the time! Wet on the skin - Still almost nothing but vetiver, with a tiny hint of musk behind it. It's dark and licquorice-like and a little too masculine for my tastes. Next stages and dry down - While I can see the slight resemblance to Snake Oil (one of my fvourite scents), ultimately there's too much dark vetiver for me to want to keep this. It's totally crowding out the other notes. Off to the swaps box with you, Prurience!

In the vial - All the notes and in the perfect order! Lovely rich dark cherry and rosewood with a breath of lavender and rose. Wet on the skin - This is a wonderfully fresh and clear scent, with lavender and rosewood creating an elegant, well balanced first impression. There's a subtle waft of dark cherry too, but the woody florals are stronger. Next stages - A sweet, delicate rose note emerges shyly at first and then with more gusto as it warms with the rosewood. Dry down - This is a lovely summer blend. It's delicate without being fragile and sweet without being cloying. If you like this, try - Villain, Kyoto

In the vial - Ginger tea! It's like the backroom of some mysterious Victorian tearoom packed high with wooden crates and jars of aromatic tealeaves. Wet on the skin - Ohhhh, this is GOOD. Dry, dusty spices and the bite of pepper with warm woods. It has a sharpness to it and an almost strongent quality along with the spices, which I imagine is the tea leaf. Next stages and dry down- The tea note remains the strongest as the scent develops, but this is a really well rounded blend with all the notes blending togther into a rich, dusky whole. It fades a little fast, though. No problem, next time I'll just wear more of it! If you like this, try - Saw Scaled Viper, Al Shairan

In the vial - Sweet and creamy and coconutty, but with a naughty little note of dirty patchouli underneath. MMMmmm. Wet on the skin - Pathcouli patchouli patchouli. I smell like a hippy's pencilcase. Next stages - Thankfully the lovely warm coconut and the sweet benzoin notes have swelled up again, although the blend is still a little more earthy than those I normally enjoy. Dry down - This is a very unpredictable blend indeed - like a goblin itself, it swings between naughty and nice. Sometimes it's a lovely warm vanilla-resin richness, and sometimes it's all earth and dried wood. I think I'll keeo this for a while and see if it behaves better after a spell in the imp box. If you like this, try - Death Cap

In the vial - This is a sweet and heady blend at first sniff, thick with copal. There's also a wet, saplike note I recognise from other tropical BPAL blends. Wet on the skin - This is lovely! There's a rush of orange at first, which is absolutely mouthwatering. Close behind it is a damp floral and more of the sweet copal. Next stages - The tropical jungle flowers are becoming more and more prominent, with the orange fading away and the plumeria coming to the fore. Dry down - While I'm not sure about the mid-notes, I like the sweet freshness of the top notes and the resiny base. I'll keep it in the back of the box for now and try it again when the weather warms up (it might be May but it's still freezing in Wales!) If you like this, try - Chimera

A scent created to burn away sorrow: bergamot, frankincense, rose geranium, ginger, lemongrass, and blood orange. In the vial - My first impression is, very sadly, that of bathroom cleaner. Lemongrass always does this to me. Underneath that harsh, bitter citrus note, though, there's a lovely rich bergamot trying to get out. Wet on the skin - That's better! It's a mix of the sweet powderiness of frankincense and rose geranium with a tangy fruit note and the warmth of ginger. Next stages - The lemongrass refuses to soften, but there's enough sweet fruit and resin to stop me washing it off. Dry down - After an hour the blend has mellowed enough to let me appreciate its warmth and cheerfulnes. The ginger adds lovely depth to the fruit and flowers, but there's still that harsh lemongrass in the background. Other notes - I think this is going to make a great room scent, but as a perfume the lemongrass is just too astringent. If you like this, try - Rose Cross (for the frankincense and floral mix)

I love honey, I love cardamom, and I love the concept of this blend in particular. I'm fascinated by the history of prostitution and of New Orleans alike. In the vial -- Ooooh. A rough around the edges, fiery sweet honey blend. There's nothing delicate about this one! Wet on the skin - Strepsils. Strepsil honey and lemon throat sweets. This does not make me happy. Next stages -- Still strepsils. I'm very saddened by this, as I don't want to smell like throat sweets. Dry down - I haven't got that far. I'm going to wash it off. Poor Crib Girls - looks like it's back on the street for you. If you like this, try - Hetairae, Osun

In the vial - Warm and nutty, but it's a very natural scent; there's not much sweetness here. Wet on the skin - A wonderful blend of crushed hazelnuts and a trace of caramel. There's no fruit as yet; just a warm, golden nuttiness. Next stages and dry down - There's not a huge amount of throw, and the blend stays close to the skin. There's a tiny waft of tart fruit, but the lovely hazelnut note stays dominant. If you like this, try - Gluttony, Hellcat

I'm not a great fan of "green" scents, and I often find rose goes rather sour on me, but I live in hope! In the vial - A dark, green scent with an earthy undertone. Thre's a lot of fresh green sap here. Wet on the skin - This is actully rather nice! It has fresh and clean top notes, with the barest hint of sweet florals. Next stages and dry down - The blend warms up a lot as it develops on the skin, the rooty note being more like vanilla than wood or earth. Othe thoughts - This scent would be perfect for wearing with casual outfits in early spring. It also strikes me as somewhat androgynous.

In the vial - This scent is luxuriant and rich, with a little heat behind it from the ginger. It's delicious! Wet on the skin - Mmmm. Sweet and spicy, like a box of candied ginger and liqueur chocolates. So far this feels like a very comforting rather than sexual scent. Next stages - I take it back about this not being sexy. The red musk note springs out within less than a minute, demanding attention. The Lady of the House has drawn me in with sweet talk and sweeter liquor, and now she's demanding payment before she goes any further. Dry down - The musk soon mellows and softens, but the scent actually seems to be growing in strength and intensity. Other thoughts - I really like this blend but I'll be happy enough with just my half-decant. If you like this, try - Penny Dreadful (Not a similar scent, but it gives off the same vibe of slightly languid sensuality to me), Saw Scaled Viper

In the vial - Flowers! All flowers, all the time - with a hint of vanilla. At first acquiantance it reminds me strongly of Peitho. Wet on the skin - Wow, jasmine-tastic. Not at all what I was expecting, but very pleasant as long as the jasmineis grounded by something later. Next stages - This is a beautiful and lively floral bouquet, and not dead at all. It's very feminine and pretty. Dry down - Although the scent remais unabashedly floral, there's a lovely, sweet, chocolately background. I love it! In summary - Don't be afraid of the flower-heavy early stages. This is a cheerful and warm blend that will lift the spirits, in more ways than one!

I love cacao, I love burlesque and I love Cthulhu! How more perfect could a scent description be? Incidentally, there's a sex shop just down the road from me called Lovecraft. Just thought you might all like to know that. ;-) In the vial - Black temple is right. This is one of the darkest scents I've ever sampled. Thick black musk leaps straight from the vial and blankets the other notes, though the bittersweet scent of cacao lends a nice powdery edge to it. Wet on the skin - This is an aggressively sexy scent. The black musk continues to dominate, while the tobacco gives a deep, woody resonance to the perfume. There's an almost peppery touch to this blend and I can't work out where that's coming from. Next stages - There is nothing shy about this blend! There's not much tease in this striptease either; it's all leather corsets, whips and spike heels. Thescent hasn't changed much from its early stages, but it's a little more mellow. Dry down - This is a wonderful, silky black veil of scent. Definitely not a scent for every day. but in the right moment, this could be devastatingly seductive. I also think this would be incredible layered with Snake Oil.

In the vial - Rich, dark wine and berries with the soporific sweetness of rose. Wet on the skin - Myrrh and dark roses. This scent has a definite sharp edge to it. Within a few seconds, though, it darkens. It's like wine and incense and fits perfectly with the concept of the scent. Next stages - This is a very evocative perfume. It smells like seduction, murder and black magic, and a poisoned chalice of deep red wine sitting on a dark altar for some unholy communion Dry down - Myrrh and rose attar is a wonderful combination. Sweet, resinous, sophisticated and a touch dangerous. In Conclusion - There are very few rose blends that I like, but I think this one is going to grow on me. I shall save it for very late nights. Try Lilith if you like - Lady Macbeth, Horreur Sympathique

It's been ages since I wore this scent. It was one of the very first BPAL scents I ever tested, but somehow I never got round to writing a review. In the vial - A powdery floral with a background of warm vanilla and sandalwood. Wet on the skin - The sharp scent of lily (my Note of Death) is definitely there, but the warm, soft woods and vanilla are softening it and giving me hope. It's a sensual, warm perfume that gives off a very "pink" vibe for some reason. Next stages - Oh no oh no oh no. Stargazer Lily, go away! You are not my friend and I don't want to play with you. I'm not that fond of your BFF Jasmine, either. Dry down - Once the harsher floral notes have worn off, it's very pleasant. Perhaps aging will help it become more rounded. In conclusion - A pleasant and very feminine floral. Will be very nice used to fragrance body lotion or dusting powder. Good for spring.

I decided to take a chance on this one, although I don't normally like icy scents. In the vial - Sharp and frosty, like a pine forest in the dead of December. Wet on the skin - Again; this is sharp and slightly bitter. The wood notes are the most noticeable at first. Next few minutes - This scent is definitey an androgynous one. It's sharp and green, but I have trouble picking out any particular note. Dry down - I thought for a moment I had a flash of a bitter red berry, but that was probably the eponymous red peppers. I'd like some more of this note, please! Other notes - Not for me. It's just too bitter and dry. Off to the swaps box!

Good - this is the first decnt I've tried in ages! Bad - The imp has leaked in transit and only a little bit is left. *weeps* And this was the one I really wanted to try! On with the testing. In the vial - Deliciously buttery, with dry spices wafting around the edges. Wet on the skin - This is wonderful. It's very similar to the scent in the bottle - buttery at first, with grounding of peppery and clovey spices that serve to make the scent a good deal more dry. Next stages - I can almost smell something floral at the very edges of this scent, but I think that may just be the sugar. Speaking of which, there's something distinctly dark about this scent; it's not all sugar and spice. Dry down - Half an hour later, there's a very odd plasticy tinge to the scent, but not enough to stop me loving it. In another half hour the plastic note has mellowed to Play-doh. Fortunately I like Play-doh. In summary - Spicy, deep and resonant. A definite bottle purchase.

WIN. So very full of win. There is no other way to respond to your suggestion. And yes, I am a Remus Lupin fangirl.

In the vial - Fruity and sweet, but with a powerful, musky base. Wet on the skin - A wonderful, deep cherry with a powdery hint of amber. Next stages - There's an almost plastic note here that shouldn't work, but does. It certainly makes me think of artificiality, cosmetic surgery and the barbie-doll perfection of a Hollywood starlet! Dry down - This is a youthful and bright scent with a deceptive sweetness to it. It's lovely, but not one for winter. Similar scents - Kabuki, Scherezade

In the vial - Amber, buttery pastry and a sweet, sticky note that's probably the fig. Wet on the skin - "Glowing" seems to be the perfect word for this blend; it's warm and golden and somehow peaceful despite the mix of sweet and bright notes it contains. Next stages - The beeswax note is tantalising; it hovers just out of reach behind the amber and fruit. Dry down - Chanukkiyah is a very comforting blend. It's not overly foody or smoky or ambery (if that's even a word), it's just rounded and smooth and warm and lovely.