Rouge

Nyarlathotep was just too gribbly for me. I had to swap him for something else Which is rather a shame as he's my favourite Lovecraft character.

Vanilla and honey are two of my favourite notes, especially when combines with skin musk, so I'm intrigued to try this blend. In the vial - All the sweet honey and vanilla of O are here, but there's a darker undertone lent by the vetiver which intrigues me. While I loved O at first, I've found that my tastes have changed to include some of the darker scents, so I have high hopes for Blood Kiss! Wet on the skin - If I had to sum this scent up in one word, it would be "throbbing". The honey and vanilla re still the most noticeable, but vetiver and poppy are lurking in the background, like vampires waiting for the sun to set. Dry down - Luscious, rich and vampiric, Blood Kiss has the perfect blend of dark fruit, earthy notes and sweetness.

I've been looking forwards to trying Mama-ji ever since the Carousel made its first appearance at BPAL. In the vial - Mama-ji smells not unlike Silk Road, which is rather fortunate as it's one of my very favourite scents! The spices and nutmeg are somehow dry and sweet at the same time, and have a rich, warm undertone. Wet on the skin - Absolutely beautiful - strong, rich cardamom and nutmeg are underscored by a rich floral I can't quite identify. Again, it reminds me of Silk Road, but is a good deal sweeter. Dry down - a few minutes into wear, the shadow of Kali herself behind the old woman in the red sari begins to make her presence felt. There's a dark, brooding note of thick spices that very soon start to overtake the sweetness felt in the initial stages. An hour later, the sweetness is back, creating a rich, warm and strong blend. I'll definitely be buying more of this!

Miskatonic University definitely smells like old books to me. It starts as a gorgeous rich coffee then turns very dusty. Clio does that too - fresh lavender, then old books.

I was expecting to dislike this scent as aquatic/ozone scents and I rarely get along, so it was a very welcome surprise to find Tempest was a clean, fresh scent that's unobtrusive but unique. In the imp, the scent is a little generically masculine and smells not unlike aftershave, but on the skin there's a wonderful, bright freshness which I suspect is lemon, with an undertone of mint. It reminds me of the lovely and delicate Empyreal Mist, but is brighter and much fresher. Perfect for summer! Edited to add - I spoke far too soon. After two hours of wear, Tempest darkened and became sludgy and dirty. I have this problem with so many aquatic scents that I think it's time to give up on them. Cthulhu and R'yleh both did exactly the same thing. Off to the swap pile it goes.

Silk Road! It's one of my very favourite blends. It's fairly dry, and spicy without being hot or aggressive in the way that, say, Al-Shairan is. I really wish I knew what was in it; I can identify cardamom and a little caraway, I think, but the rest remains a mystery.

I asked for an imp of Seraglio in a swap because I'm trying to narrow down the notes which specifically don't work on my skin. I'm experimenting with different rose blends at the moment. I have to be quite careful with rose - tearose and tuberose are usually fine but other varieties often take unspeakable liberties with my skin chemistry. In the vial - the rich and sweet scent of almonds. It reminds me a little of Queen of Sheba, although Seraglio has a definite floral edge to it and a deeper, more mellow tone in the background. Wet on skin - Orange blossom! It's thick and sweet and while very pleasant, I think it could become quite overpowering in a close, warm room. The rose lends this a very sensual atmosphere but I'm concerned about a strange sharpness which I can't quite identify... possibly the nutmeg. Dry down - A few minutes into wear, I can smell a faintly soapy and not entirely pleasant note emerging, which I think may be the rose. Some time later, the sharpness mellows a little but not enough to lift ther perfume into my list of favourite blends. I think I may need to test Seraglio again before making a decision on whther to keep it. I suspect it would be wonderful in a body lotion or as an ingredient for scented dusting powder.

I'm not normally one for Dragon's Blood, so I thought I'd start my exploration of this area of the BPAL catalogue with something that sounded light and gentle. In the bottle - Juicy and sweet. I think Ladon the dragon has been eating the apples he's meant to be protecting! Wet on the skin - Absolutely delicious juicy red apples. The apple blossom isn't delicate - they're full, bright white flowers that show no sign of drooping or falling from the tree. Behind it all there's the gritty, sharp scent of Ladon's scales. This is definitely a red scent to me, rather than a golden one. Dry down - The blossom note has mellowed considerably, leaving a warm and rounded scent. This is a wonderfully fruity springtime scent, perfect for days when you feel like something a little more assertive than Titania but sweeter than Baobhan Sith.

I don't usually have visual interpretations of BPAL perfumes, but Seance is so unique that it demands one. This perfume is a Victorian parlour, long locked up and abandoned, with dust lying thick on the rich rose-velvet covered furniture, cobwebs covering the heavy drapes. There are whispers in the air that sound like the rustling of black silk dresses and chiffon mourning veils. Although the room has been shut up for decades, on the table in the middle of the room is a pearlescent vase in the centre of the table stands a large bouquet of dark pink roses, which eerily seem as fresh as the day they were picked. In the bottle - A dry, ticklish and dusty scent, but with a green prescence, like a vase of freshly cut roses with sap still seeping from the stems. Wet on the skin - The thick, velvety dust-like note is a little alarming at first but it soon settles into a quiet pall of scent to mix with the rose leaf and wood notes. Dry down - The roses have finally crumbled, leaving only the mellow, warm rosewood and the ever-present dust. Seance fades a little more quickly on me than I'd like, but it's neverthless a fascinating blend.

Amber is one of my favourite notes. While it does sometimes turn faintly powdery on me, that's not always a bad thing. In Jacob's Ladder, it's an incredibly good thing. In the bottle - A very gentle perfume; warm, soft and comforting. Very angelic, in fact! It's a rich, ethereal golden veil of scent. Wet on skin - I'm pleased to find that amber, slightly warmed and softened, is the dominant note. There's a beautifully sweet ingredient here which I'm finding it hard to identify. It's not a foody sweetness, nor an obviously floral one, but it certainly helps to create a gentle, serene and enveloping cloud. Dry down - Like an angel descending to earth, the heavenly sweetness and golden notes that seem like pure light made liquid have deepened and grounded themselves in a thick, delicious resinous quality, but have done so without losing any of their ethereal nature. This scent is one of complete serenity. I shall be keeping it for the very rare occasions when I feel utterly at peace.

As an amateur Ripperologist, I've very much been looking forwards to trying this one. I'm also a great lover of Villain, and Whitechapel sounded like a good alternative to have to hand for when my imp runs out! In the bottle - As sharp as Jack's own knife collection. It's tart and fresh, with a not unpleasantly sour edge. Wet on the skin - I'm relieved to find that the lilac softens the lime considerably, but there's nevertheless the overwhelming scent of green Opal Fruits (to me they will never be called Starburst) when first applied. Dry down - After a few minutes, a beautfully dark and almost dirty edge twines itelf around the freshness of the lime as the white musk note becomes more noticeable. "Corrupted" is the perfect word! This is a beautifully duplicitous scent. My only criticism is that it fades so quickly, but the almost powdery note of lilac and white musk that remains after an hour is so bewitching that I hardly mind its short lifespan.

... Her ofrenda is thick with honey and herbs of love, passion and desire. Ahh, Osun, Orisha of love and beauty. I've been dying to try this one for a long time. I'm a fervent devotee of BPAL's honey blends, and I've been meaning to make service for Osun for quite a while. I'm hoping for something languorous, flirtatatious and rich. In the bottle - The scent is thick and sweet, but surprisingly the honey note isn't the most dominant first impression. There's a clean fresh herbal note and something almost fruity as well. I think I smell a hint of ylang ylang. Since that's reputed to be an aphrodisiac it wouldn't surprise me. Wet on the skin - Fresh and clean, this is a very green scent with a naggingly familiar herbal/floral note that I just can't put my finger on... Dry down - This isn't an edible honey, it's more like fresh cut herbs and flowers mixed into a love potion mixed by the lovely Osun herself! Half an hour in, Lemongrass or Lemon verbena - I'm not sure which - has given the scent a slight sharpness, but the notes are beautifully rounded and it doesn't upset the delicate balance of herbs and sweetness. Osun isn't as rich and heavy as I'd hoped for, but it does however capture the youthful, bright aspect of the Orisha's personality. It's far more innocent virgin than practised seductress. I will definitely be keeping this one, but whether I use it purely for ritual work or wear it on a cosmetic basis I'm yet to decide. It's certainly not a winter scent - I'll try it again when the weather warms up.

My first review for a while. In the bottle - Rich, dark and chocolately. It reminds me very strongly of Penny Dreadful, although this seems slightly more mature, somehow, and has a metallic note to it that smells more than a little sanguinary. Wet on skin - Incredibly dark and sensuous. There's a deep sweetness to this blend that reminds me of marzipan, for some reason. If Penny Dreadful is a coquettish Dickensian harlot sashaying through a low-rent theatre or seedy casino, this is an elegant black-clad courtesan reclining gracefully on a red velvet chaise longue amid huge vases of dark red roses, drinking a deep red wine from a cut-crystal glass. Dry down - Unfortunately the throw is extremely light, almost on a level with Blood Pearl. Nevertheless, it's a beguiling, seductive scent that I'll be keeping for rather special occasions...

Ozymandias= Chanel No.5

Fallen is exactly the way that the Lab describes it - handsome and regal, but with a distinctly chilly and isolated undertone. It does however have a bit of amber in it, but there are enough other notes that I think you might be OK with it.

Hi there! I'd go for Santa Muerte. It's comfortingly sad, if that makes any sense...

Defnitely Malediction! That's the darkest oil I've tried; in fact it was too heavy for me. Nyarlathotep is pretty black as well.

Hope I'm not coming to this topic too late for you, but I find Santa Muerte a very wet scent. It's the cactus flowers. It may have more floral notes than you'd be happy with, though. Tenochtitlan is also extremely green, with the scent of freshly-cut flowers and herbs. I found it a bit too green and fresh for me.

Malediction is pretty strong on the vetiver, but the patchouli that's also prevalent gives the blend a rather more musty smell than vetiver has alone.

I shall have to be awkward with this one, because I'm getting totally different notes to the majority of reviewers . Penny Dreadful is, to me, the perfect scent for an audience member at Anne Rice’s Theatre des Vampires or for a Jack the Ripper victim-in-waiting. In the bottle - A deep but soft floral. Despite its richness it’s not overpowering. Wet on the skin – The scent of earth and dried roses lends a rich, dusty and faintly sweet note. It’s almost like dark chocolate. Dry down – Penny Dreadful is undoubtedly feminine; in fact it’s almost languorous. To me it’s less femme fatale than the diaphanous peignoir-clad victims of pulp gothic horror, though. There’s a swooning richness here; it’s very sensual in a languid, bosom-heaving way. It’s also one of the stronger BPAL offerings I’ve tried, so approach with moderation! Related scents: The obvious touchstones and comparison to me is Fallen, with which it shares some of floral notes, but without Fallen’s chilly and hollow core.

I’m always amazed at how brilliantly scents are replicated by the Lab. Burial really does smell of earth; heavy, warm and dusty. In the bottle – The oil smells rich but also dry, with only a very faint undertone of sweetness. There’s a slightly sharp note from the juniper, very reminiscent indeed of the smell of freshly-turned earth. Wet on the skin – Dusty is the word I would use; it’s still a dry scent though less harsh than in the bottle. Dry down – After an hour or so, the scent mellows and develops into a rounded blanket of scent. To me it isn't particularly complex; I can’t smell the florals that other people have mentioned. Burial is not something I would necessarily wear on its own, but I think that like De Sade, it would make a good base on which to layer other scents.

A luscious and languorous scent that fairly drips with rich, golden notes. In the bottle – A warm and golden sweetness like oats or wheat is the most noticeable element here. I would almost use the word “biscuity”. It’s comforting, rich and delicious. Wet on the skin – The sweetness dissolves quickly leaving warm round tones that retain the spiciness of the amber and saffron. Dry down – A very light floral note emerges, along with a thick, luscious honey scent. The biscuity note lingers the longest on my skin, and wafts very satisfactorily with every movement of my wrist. This is good alternative to Queen of Sheba if you find Her Majesty a little too overpowering or almondy for your tastes.

This is a unique scent, and perfectly invokes the dry, fiery nature of the legendary Djinn. It’s an arid, harsh perfume that gives a feeling of great heat without any of the comforting warmth that might be expected from such a spicy scent. In the bottle – A dessicated and faintly acrid scent. There’s the dry heat of cinnamon but none of its round, spicy warmth. Very devilish, and appropriately so. Wet on the skin – More dry heat. There’s a feeling of smoke and incense, with the barest hint of fruit. Dry down – The peach note stays very much in the background as cinnamon continues to dominate for an hour or so before mellowing to allow incense notes to make their presence felt. I shall wear this when I’m having the sort of day that makes me want to shoot fireballs at people. ;-)

This perfume is less evocative of the burnt, crow-haunted early autumn fields I was expecting and more of the stillness of a summer cornfield while the crops are still slightly green. One note of caution – Scarecrow is a fairly thin oil in comparison to some of the more viscous offerings of the Lab and as such there’s a lot of potential for leakage and drips when the imp is opened. In the bottle - Dry, slightly green and with a very faint cereal undertone. Wet On the skin – An unexpectedly gentle scent, as I was expecting something acrid and dry perhaps with an edge of smoke. There’s a faint sweetness of dried, cut meadow flowers, something sugary. It smells very much like mallow flowers. Dry down - I don’t detect any new notes, but the scent becomes very mellow and soft and powdery. Scarecrow is very pleasant but for me, doesn’t quite match up to its site description.

A deliciously dark, sophisticated and sensuous perfume. It doesn’t, however, evoke the sort of severe and acrid atmosphere I’d expect a Temple of Set to have; it’s far too luscious and thick and sanguine for that. In the bottle – Rich, warm and soft. There’s a dominant smell of crushed purple and black fruits. Very sensual and lavish. Wet on the skin – Vanilla and berries. This is an incredibly rich scent, almost throbbing. It brightens a little after a few minutes. Fruit continues to be the most noticeable scent for me but there’s also an undertone of flowers. It reminds me of nothing so much as the “Feasts of Nitocris” spoken of by the narrator of Lovecraft’s short story “The Outsider” – the ghoulish, hedonistic revels of an undead Egyptian queen. Dry down – A drier, smokier note develops as time goes on. To keep the Lovecraftian theme going, Black Lotus shares its darker notes with “Nyarlathotep”. I suspect the two would be a brilliant combination layered together. An hour into wear, “Black Lotus” softens and mellows to a dry, woody, ashen note. I’d team this perfume with clothes in rich deep colours; thick velvets and silks. Especially purple.