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Everything posted by astarinel
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This smells like really good ginger ale in the bottle, the kind where you can actually taste the spice. Wet, it's definitely the fizzy note that I love that a lot of the champagne blends have in common, also in Geek.Goth. The ginger has a slight spicy bite to it, and the orange is light and bright and more orangina than orange juice. It stayed pretty true as it dried, with that fizzy real ginger hanging on. I find spice notes can fade on me, but not this one. If you like bubbly and fizzy blends and don't mind smelling like something drinkable, definitely try this one. It ended up being my favorite of the tiki bar ones that I tested.
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Wet, very tart blueberries and gin. I have a tendency to amp lemongrass, and unfortunately my skin begins doing that as soon as I apply and as it dries the lemongrass sort of takes over. The blueberry note is very realistic, and overall this is a very bright and tart blend. I don't mind the gin note, as it tends to strike my nose as lighter somehow than a lot of the other alcohol notes. If your skin can handle lemongrass and you're looking for a blueberry-heavy blend, this might be it. I'm going to stick to my lemongrass-free Blue Phoenix though.
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Wet, the boozy blackberries are definitely the most prominent thing in this blend, with a tiny bit of anise floating around the edges. As it dries, the sweet berries abate a little, the anise gets stronger, and it's a lot more about the alcohol than it was to start with. This is nice, but I preferred the wet scent with the heavy blackberries.
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I'm going to preface my review by noting that this is one of the few scents I actually had to scrub off. Sometimes, vetiver adds a pleasant smokiness or bitter edge to a blend that might be too sweet or cloying otherwise. This is not one of those scents. Although it smelled okay in the vial, mostly apricots and currants, as soon as I put it on it became the all-vetiver-all-the-time show, with the vetiver amping to horrible bitter burning grass overwhelming levels. If I sniffed really hard, which I only did once, I got the other notes which were actually quite pleasant together, but the vetiver stomped all over them with big stompy vetiver boots. If your chemistry plays nice with vetiver, give this a try because I can tell the other notes are lovely. However, if you ever have vetiver issues, I personally would recommend you proceed with caution.
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Candy like whoa. I agree with the comparison to Candy Phoenix, this is a very bright pink sugar blend. It's almost sparkly, and it reminds me a little of Treat #1's "crushed hard candies" -- it sort of has a crystalline edge to it. The color that strikes me here is a vivid purplish pink, tart candy. If you like candied scents, definitely give this one a try! Although Treat #1 is my go-to when I want to smell like hard candy, this is a nice scent in that family if that's what you're into.
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Although I liked this, it came across very, very faint on me and faded to nothing in short order, so I probably will not be trying to obtain more of it. Wet, it's a very soft, gentle candy scent, and it gives me a mental image of very pale green pear-flavored hard candies. The lime comes out more as it dries, which makes the blend a little more refreshing than overly sweet. "Pretty" is definitely an adjective I would use for this blend, very delicate and feminine. A spring/summer sort of scent, light and sweet and airy.
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I expected to like this blend best of the moths, but something in it just isn't working for me. While wet, the vanilla is very rich and sugary, in almost a powdered-sugar sort of way. Unlike what many people reported, I get very little of the spice (good for me, cardamom can be a nemesis of mine) and leaving this a sugared musky vanilla. I do really, really like the musk note, I find the Egyptian musk very round and warm, but there's just something here that's off. It might be the vanilla -- there is one vanilla note that can go plasticky on me (the one found in Snowblind, Snow White, and Snow-Flakes, to my nose), and that could be the problem here. Either way, it is a nice scent that is failing to play nice with my chemistry. I was definitely surprised to get so little spice, this is a very creamy white scent to me.
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I like this, but not as perfume. It reminds me a lot of potpourri, but also specifically of Frumious Bandersnatch -- I think it's the spicy plum aspect doing that. It smells good, and the cloves behave and blend well even though they can go out of control on me sometimes. The sassafras also lends a sort of pleasantly root beer tinge to the scent. Overall, I'm enjoying sniffing it, but I don't want to wear it especially.
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I especially wanted to review this blend because I normally hate pumpkin notes, as my skin tends to amp them into a horrible out of control buttery mess. However. This one? Works. The pumpkin is very mellow and takes a backseat to the orange and spice, and the scent is overwhelmingly a very warm red-orange to my nose. Very appropriate for the butterfly! It smells edible without being overly heavy and foody, and definitely strikes me as more of a warm fall/winter scent than a summer one. As it dries the foody-ness fades a bit, and the amber comes out and makes this a lovely skin-hugging spicy scent, warmed by the pumpkin but tempered by the citrus. I almost didn't get a decant of this one, because of the pumpkin, but it ended up being my favorite of the metamorphosis collection and pretty much bottle-worthy.
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General citrus recommendations - and discussion of all things orange
astarinel replied to UltraViolet's topic in Recommendations
I didn't see anyone mention this one, but I also find it so conceptually appropriate (in addition to smelling suitably orangey!) I have to toss it in: Hell's Belle: Sweet, smoky and sensually wicked. A thick, steamy scent, truly sinister in its voluptuous sexuality. The perfume of a demon's favored consort, or of the devil herself. Oleander with wet, sweet mandarin, lush magnolia, a rush of deep musk and a touch of spice. I get a lot of mandarin from this one, backed with musky spice and topped with southern florals. It's more sexy and less sweet than a lot of the citrus scents I've tried, so it might fit your bill. -
My sister and I have pretty different skin chemistry. I love amber, and it's usually baby powder of doom on her, and she can work tobacco notes, which are usually stinky ashtray on me. We also have widely different preferences, on top of that. I would honestly probably go with Dorian, for a single bottle. Most people like it, it's pretty light and sweet and pleasant. If you're considering booze notes, I would recommend Swank: the scent of a crisp pomegranate martini. Mostly fruity, but with a crisp booze edge. I personally don't like a number of the GC foodies (and I loves me some foodies, for srs). Eat Me, Gluttony, Hellcat, and Bliss are all terrrrrible on my skin. If I were going to suggest one, I'd suggest Cockaigne instead which is a light buttery cakey scent. Other oils I recommend for wide appeal: 51 (this reminds me of Clinique's Happy, only awesomer), Dirty, Mouse's Long and Sad Tale, Fae, Bordello, Bon Vivant, and, if you feel like being a little quirky, No. 93 Engine. Good luck.
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I love apple scents. I have bottles of Ladon, Fearful Pleasure (I, also, can't tell much of a difference between this and Lambs-wool -- FP is a touch smokier and spicier in the drydown, but they're very similar wet), Snow Glass Apples, and Coral Snake. I just want to put in a word for Coral Snake, because it's a fabulous apple blend that gets a little spice from the snake oil but is still very bright and crisp with the touch of blood orange. If you haven't delved into the snake pit for this one, you should.
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Adding to the chorus of "this is awesome!" Because, well, it is. I, too, plunged for a bottle unsniffed. I love Snake Oil, I love the snake pit, I will try anything with honey as a listed note I love it so. It definitely has that slightly sharp edge that very fresh Snake Oil has, when immediately applied, but it's tempered by a sweet, luscious honey. As a warning for those that hate it, I do find the honey in this to be quite similar to the honey in O, to my nose. This is definitely not a foody honey blend, with the other notes, but still a thick and potentially sexy one. As it dries, the vanilla and spices warm up in the Snake Oil and start to blend with the honey in the most amazing way. I do find this blend to be heavier on the SO than some of the snake pits (such as Boomslang and Western Diamondback). There is definitely identifiable Snake Oil here! I couldn't contain myself and tested it pretty much as soon as it arrived, so I am very looking forward to seeing how this settles and ages. I like my SO and snake pits with some age on them, to mellow the SO out, so I can imagine this blend will only get better and better. I'm considering breaking my "no more backups!" rule.
- 248 replies
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- Lupercalia 2019
- Lupercalia 2010
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Another one that struck me as a bit more masculine than feminine, so in the name of getting all the phoenixes tested at once, it went on my boyfriend rather than on me. Lavender. That sure is lavender, up front, and a more herbal lavender, reminding me more of Bat of Longevity than TKO. It smells kind of warm under the lavender, and only a touch metallic. It definitely reminds me of the sort of thing that would be a soothing aromatherapy blend, with the lavender and soft resins and sandalwood, and while I would definitely use a product like room scent or massage oil scented like this, I'm less enamored with it as a perfume.
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This one is interesting, and it's another one I put on my boyfriend rather than slathering it on myself after getting a masculine vibe in the imp. On him, the cypress largely takes over (no bad thing really, he and I like cypress on him), and it's very dark and resinous behind the cypress. This one was less straightforwardly metallic than most of the other phoenixes, to my nose, and it definitely strikes me as a masculine, powerful scent. The tobacco gives it that sharp tinge that tobacco sometimes has in blends, the sharpness rather than the smokiness. Overall, this one was better on him than Iron Phoenix (which was, oddly, HEAVIER than Lead Phoenix to me), and it was very interesting but had a little too much going on to be a standout.
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I didn't really have much in the way of expectations for this one -- the note list made me think sweetish floral, but this is actually really pretty and unique, and I am generally a floral-hater. The pear is very evident, which keeps it sweet and a little juicy, but the other floral notes blend together to make this soft haze behind the pear. The florals are a touch powdery in a way that reminds me of violets (as mentioned upthread), and relatively unobtrusive. It's gentle and feminine, and even someone like me who avoids floral scents as a general rule finds this reasonably wearable. It's nice.
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I tried this one on my boyfriend, not me, as the imp scanned a little too dark and manly for my taste. It was kind of too dark and thick for his taste, as well -- a very dark metallic spiced with pepper and ginger. It's warm and heavy, almost bitter as it dries.
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This reminds me slightly of Violet Ray, which must be the white mint which isn't precisely "minty," more light and herbal. Like Gold Phoenix, this is a very light, citrussy metallic scent. But where the ambers in Gold Phoenix gave it a perfumey edge, to my nose, this is more airy and almost a little cologney-masculine. It reminds me of the sort of scent used for fresh, unisex bath products, which isn't a bad thing per se, but isn't really what I was hoping for.
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I amp verbena like nobody's business, so getting it pretty strongly here was not a surprise to me. I was hoping to get more amber, since I love amber, but it's pretty absent on my skin except as sort of a "perfumey" waft behind the citrus. Basically, on me, Gold Phoenix smells like citrus + perfume + metal. It is very bright, but I was hoping for a more deeper, richer gold rather than a sharp sunny one. Although this sounds sort of negative, it's actually reasonably pleasant, just not what I prefer and was hoping this scent would be.
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Seconding Bow and Crown of Conquest. That is the leather + vanilla to me, I've tried Liz and found it all smoke on my skin! It was dreadfully disappointing. For leather notes by themselves, you might try the new Rider ones -- White Rider, Red Rider, and Black Rider, as they are all QUITE leathery, but of different sorts of leather, and using your favorite of those in layers if you are looking for more vanilla or other notes to go with it. I used to recommend De Sade to everyone who wanted to "leather up" any non-leathery or only lightly-leathery perfume with more leathery goodness, but since it's been discontinued it will probably prove quite difficult to find any of it. If you do, however, it's basically a leather single note. Your other request, however, makes me think of Mary Read: Salt air, ocean mist, aged patchouli, sarsaparilla, watered-down rum, leather-tinged musk, and a spray of gunpowder. It's definitely got ocean and leather, and you might find the rum and sarsaparilla doing sweeter things on your skin!
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I didn't test this one, but my boyfriend did and not only asked for this one to go on his bottle list, but wanted me to publicly note that he finds it to be the same leather note as in the original Dead Man's Hand, for anyone craving that. He loves DMH (and poor, lamented De Sade) for layering, because it IS, as people have noted, a very straightforward leather scent, but he finds this to be more of a wearable blend on its own, as compared to DMH or De Sade.
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In the bottle, this is very pale and pretty -- the peach is definitely a peach blossom, and not the juicy fruit. The white tea adds a bit of astringency, and it has a very sophisticated, elegant vibe to me. Unfortunately, on me, the florally jasmine kind of takes over in a way that is just not working for me. It ends up being primarily a soft floral scent, and it's not bad and slightly peachy, but it's pretty much jasmine tea with a bit of a peach kick on my skin. I definitely wouldn't recommend this one if you have jasmine issues, or if you're looking for a more fruity peach scent.
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I am definitely agreeing with the reviews that report a lemony tart scent here! I can smell the honey, but I'm very much reminded of honey lemon cough drops, that combination of sticky sweet honey and tart lemon. This is really interesting, and very unlike most of the other honey scents I own (I am a honey fiend), but I'm not sure I actually LIKE it enough to want any more of it. As it dries, the honey becomes more prominent (I find citrus notes in general are fade-y), and it's still nice but not knocking my socks off. It reminds me weirdly of Giant Vulva, although this is more honeyed -- I had the same wtf citrus? reaction to both.
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I find this blend to be perfectly what I expected from the note list, and I really like it. None of the notes are really taking over, and they all combine in a wonderful way. The magnolias are heady and warm, the peaches soft and juicy, and the honey sticky and sweet. It's a very sweet and feminine blend, and the magnolias keep the honey and peaches from becoming too foody. To compare to other peach blends, it's warmer and juicier than Fae and richer and sweeter than Philommeides. I'm not sure I need a bottle yet, as I have bottles of those two and it's not quite peach-scent-weather, but I'm definitely hanging on to the Josie I have.
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I actually kind of like this, which surprised me as I tacked on the decant on a whim. It's very foody, the most sugary-buttery-foody of the Yules I've tried this year, and I find the apricot note to be the most prominent on my skin. There's a touch of cherry, but it takes a backseat. I'm discovering that I may just not like almond -- Bite Me was very strange to me, as well, and they seem to share a bit of a component here. I find that there's a strange, almost soapy tinge to the almond note that I find distracting in an otherwise heavy-foody blend. Also, since I don't have any actual associations with this food (although it sounds delicious!) my nose interprets it as "foody fruity melange" more than anything else, because I don't have a specific reference to bring to mind. It's like "Apricot jam, that's nice, I like that... there's something, uh, cherry here? And a bit of pastry. And something... almond? Maybe a little soapy? Huh."