BetteNoire

Slightly spiced pomegranate rose on a bed of the musk from Snake Oil. I blessedly don't get honey or mullein since those can be iffy, but I'm sure they're contributing somewhere. It's not the Hymn to Proserpine replacement I'd hoped for but it's a stunner, is just it's own separate thing.

Lovely jammy rose and while I was concerned that coconut would go to that sunscreen/cheap body splash place, it doesn't - just is a warm and creamy note. This is so lovely but my skin found the cinnamon even if my nose didn't (hives) - so I'll either have to re-home or use exclusively in my scent locket.

I have never understood why anyone would want to smell like food, especially dairy containing food. BUT someone said this dried down to a more femme version of Antikythera Mechanism so I took a chance. On wet, it smells like Yakgul, those little creamsicle tasting yogurt drinks you get at the end of a Korean BBQ meal. Then it straight up disappears for 10 minutes. Once it dries down it really does do something Antikythera adjacent. The lotus doesn't read as specifically lotus to me but is an airy, non-powdery floral, and combined with the amber and teak it's much more complex than it's simple notes list and has depth I didn't expect. The throw is quieter than some, but I feel like this means it'll stun without overwhelming in warm weather.

HOO BOY. We gonna need a backup squadron, we gonna need OLOP scents as GC. This one is *dangerous*. That rose is neither jammy sweet nor powdery, it's dark and soft and real. Plum is not candyish or sour, tobacco is like the old French Tobacco SN. Slinky deep purple silk. It shares no listed notes and doesn't even smell like it, but this has a Hymn to Prosepine vibe, may she rest in peace 😭. Or maybe a drier, less sweet Mme Moriarty. Warning: causes instant pupil dilation in partners.

Regal is the very word. Golden luxury like a Gilded Age concert hall. Neroli is sharp out the gate but calms down quick. This is not your New Age vegan friend's champaca, thank goodness, and this is no sweet teenybopper vanilla. This is Paris is Burning "OP-U-LENCE, you own everything!"

Gonna have to disagree with the above. I still have a decant of OLOP and this new patchouli is much smoother and less hippie smelling but definitely present. The OG decant patchouli got gnarly in its old age so if you're hoping for that I'd set this aside for, I dunno, a decade. To review the scent actually in front of me, all the listed notes are balanced and shockingly this is one scent that I enjoy the blood musk accord in. The opium and orchid hit similar to Event Horizon but the patchouli base and almost mentholic white lavender take it in a "colder" direction. Very much the scent of the somber, sensual, cold Dolores - this is high goth in a way that doesn't feel done to death. Dark but still airy and atmospheric.

The Stormhold from Stardust might also fill this niche.

Seconding everything mentioned so far, and I'll add Mr. Croup and the Marquis de Carabas from the Neverwhere collection.

*Look at this trove, treasures untold How many backups can one cabinet hold?* Oh, review the scent? Sorry, right. It's everything. The post office lost my package for a minute, so this bottle got to age 3 weeks and it is EVERYTHING. Are you a slut for cardamom? Because I am, and I didn't realize Snake Oil would benefit from some. I like red musk but never vibes with Smut, but this is indeed a treat. I only do backups for real mindblowers, this might need 2 backups.

I adore the beach, but can't do aquatic perfumes and often dislike "beachy" scents. I also love jasmine but not on me, you know? This isn't beachy, this is The Beach, bottled. I get a very distinct sand note, with this gorgeous jasmine floral breeze ( this jasmine and I can be friends!) and an incensy haze of champaca and sandalwood (just a touch, that conveys a sense of heat, like the sand is hot). I am so happy I stepped out of my comfort zone for this - this is the kind of summer scent I can actually wear!

You might also try Melisande the Puppet Mistress. It's got a good boy of similarity to Fallen

Deep purple with a breathtaking iridescent sparkle to it. I love all these notes, so it shouldn't be surprising, but still....wow. This is that literally intoxicating lilac smell, made cool (not icy cold though) instead of warm. The plum and tobacco flower seem to be supporting the lilac and adding back in whatever it is that often gets lost between a real lilac bush and the distilled flower oil. Unf. And as it dries down the opium comes in. I'm iffy with musks but clearly I need more of the indigo variety. And possibly a backup bottle of this.

Good lord, this should come with a warning. Scent wise it's a used bookstore, where maybe the owner's got a diffuser running in a corner with lavender oil in. What this really is, is one of those long hugs from someone who loves you where suddenly you're crying because it's been too long since you felt safe enough to feel all your feelings and they all come up at once. Yikes, that was oddly specific. But this is one of those that bypasses everything and smacks you straight in the limbic system. There's a reason all the reviews mention a memory. I'll probably need a backup bottle, it's cheaper than therapy.

Does what it says on the tin. But, if you are like me and insane for cardamom but not big on foodies, know that without notes of vanilla or cake or whatever the cardamom can really expand into a beautiful complexity. The amber supports it and ties it to the skin. So very lovely.

I love all these notes, save for massoia bark which I have no experience with. Should be nice! On skin: interesting, nice galbanum note at first. 5 minutes into dry down: this.....smells exactly like balsamic vinegar. What the everlasting fuck? A skin chemistry fail for the ages that had to be scrubbed off with Dawn. I gotta find that Tree of Disappointment people keep talking about....