gentle-twig

I would like to second Sprout's recommendation! Lenus Mars is just great. On me it is a little more animalic than herbal (the musk dominates and then gives way to ambergris), but the chamomile sticks around in a supporting role.

I have fallen in love with several of BPAL's simpler blends. I do have a few more complicated favorites, but I find that trying out blends with 2-3 notes is great for figuring out the personality of each and how that can change in different combinations. Plus there is really just a poetry to the complexity that some of these blends conjure from 2 oils. Some favorites: Sloth - vetiver and myrrh (probably my favorite bpal!) Malediction - vetiver and patchouli (a little abrasive but so interesting in an almost anti-perfume way, even though these notes are both classic perfume staples) The Cat - honey, dark musk, benzoin, and cedar (a little more complicated, but still has the personality of some of the lab's simpler blends for me. each note is clearly discernible and the interplay between them is captivating) Sometimes simple blends can be a little underwhelming for me (as in the case of Anne Bonny), but often they are just magical.

Spooky Action at a Distance is a great "floriental" -- rose tinged resins, with a bit of a dusty vibe. A gorgeous take on "old lady" perfume, to be honest. I'm testing Chimera as I type this. It seems to get a lot of love around here and I can see why. It's about as close to a traditional oriental as I have encountered from BPAL. I honestly don't get a floral note, but many people do get the honeysuckle based on reviews. I get mostly copal warmed by cinnamon with myrrh hanging on in the background and maybe the faintest touch of floral sweetness. A really smooth and spicy, slightly floral oriental.

This one doesn't excite me. It starts out an austere sandalwood and is slowly warmed by the frankincense and patchouli, but these (with the exception of the frankincense for just a moment) never really come into their own. Not by any means unpleasant, but it doesn't seem like a stand-alone scent. I do think it would be good to add a little depth to other oils that could use it, though.

I am not the person to be giving you recommendations based on your favorite/unfavorite notes but I'm testing the Cat right now and it's a pretty interesting animalic honey (+benzoin, which you don't list but seems like it would fit in with your other favorite notes, also cedar) if you ever want to get ~experimental~

Posting in case anyone ever happens to be looking: I tried a sample of Dior Homme Intense today and although the online reviews tend to emphasize the "lipsticky" iris opening, on me this is really an ambrette bomb. It reminds me of the ambrette in the recent Luper Seated Couple Leaning on Hips. This is the only ambrette scent I've tried from the lab, but here are some others that are currently available and might be similar to DHI: Aperotos Eros: benzoin, Indian musk, massoia bark, myrrh, ambrette seed, galbanum, bergamot, and fir. Bilquis: Honey, myrrh, lily of the valley, rose otto, fig leaf, almond, ambrette, red apple, and warm musk. Hal: Saffron-infused bourbon vanilla, blackened honey, Kashmir wood, Atlas cedar, ambrette seed, hay, and Egyptian jasmine absolute.

Opens with florals forward, with rose and champaca being dominant on me. Frankincense peaked its head out and I was expecting it to take over but then it disappeared completely, yielding to the balsam. Something mildly vanillic comes out (?) and then this seems to dry down to a myrrh and juuuuuust detectable florals (still rose, but now hyssop and maybe narcissus are there, as well). At first I thought this was a definite no, but upon my second test I decided it's okay after all. I love myrrh, but whatever kind is used here is not exactly the deep, brooding resin that I'm used to. Still, it is nice, actually beautiful and majestic. I can understand the religious/mystical character of this, but it's less church incense on me and more like a vision of a goddess in a classical epic. Not for me, but it could be for you if you can pull off a very serious/solemn (without being dark), moderately feminine rose/resin blend. ETA: After some brief research, I realized that cananga is another name for ylang-ylang, which, now that I think about it, is definitely what is reining in the myrrh. Also, my fellow enemies of rosewood (palisander) should have nothing to fear from this blend.

I actually haven't tried any in your top 5, but something tells me that Ava probably smells something like the white musk/floral/fruit combination of Katharina, which, like Tamora, contains orange blossom.

I've had this for a while and never reviewed it. I tried it when I first got it as a frimp a few months ago and liked it but didn't much of it. Retested today and I'm so glad I did because this has to be one of my favorite BPALs I've tried yet. It starts out with a typical BPAL vetiver flash of smokiness, but the vetiver dries down to a deep, bitter, green earthiness. The myrrh appears immediately after the smoky vetiver moment is over as a sort of cedar-adjacent wood and dries down to such a nice, broad, sweet but dry resin. There is something so sophisticated in the simplicity of this blend. There are only two notes but I've had it on for 8 hours at this point. The two notes combine to form a deep, dark scent without either note dominating. Late late LATE in the game a little smoke comes out again. I would recommend this to anyone who likes either of the listed notes, as they are both very much present, as well as to anyone who got into BPAL, as I did, to learn about perfume notes. This blend really shows off both vetiver and myrrh to their best advantage and I will probably be buying a bottle of this in my next order.

This starts out very green and bitter. I think it is the ferns (which I am not familiar with) mixing with the black currant, which I blame for turning Bordello a little too bitter on me. However, once this dries down, the bitterness all but disappears and the greenness steps (slightly) aside to let the lilac shine aided oh so subtly by the rose. I find that rose doesn't work well on me as the main note in a blend but can be a great supporting player (see also: Spooky Action at a Distance) and that is certainly the case here. The greenness sticking around almost feels like I layered this scent with The Dormouse, to give a comparison. I'm not sure that I can detect the sugar or the absinthe at all. Lilac and rose both tend to be sweet florals and that is true in this blend, as well. However, this isn't really any sweeter than I would expect it to be and the ferns keep the sweetness from being overwhelming. Absinthe may be a part of the slight bitterness that remains in the background, but it definitely isn't identifiable (not that that would be a bad thing, for me). This isn't really my thing, but I'm glad the lab sent me the frimp and I'll definitely wear it when I need a dash of heady springtime air.

i literally don't know how to review aquatics but this is the saltiest aquatic i have tried. it doesn't really fit the inspiration for me because this feels happy and playful, but that's not a bad thing. probably my favorite aquatic i've tried, but that's not saying much.

this starts out all sake. i understand the lemonade comparisons because there is a sharp tartness here that is reminiscent of citrus. there is actually almost nothing else at first and after the blast of sake there is almost nothing going on after a few minutes. however, after a while the musk really starts to bloom. i have always thought the other skin musk blends from the lab smelled somehow damp and indeed this is a sort of wet, delicate, slightly sweet musk. i don't really detect the ambrette seed, but a little research tells me that ambrette seed used to be used as an alternative to musk, so it's possible that it is blending in with what i would interpret as the skin musk. i would guess that it is sweetening things up just a little bit here. the sake thankfully sticks around and has almost the effect of a dry wood (even thoug i know that sounds crazy), really keeping things from getting too sweet and musky. so in the end i guess this smells sort of wet and dry at the same time, which is exactly what i would want from a boozy blend (this is my first). i'm not sure how much i will be wearing this before the weather warms up, but this feels like a great, refreshing, clean-but-interesting blend for warm weather.

I know exactly what you mean about the green stems. Yes, this is a salty aquatic, but the wateriness of it along with a vague botanical feeling reminds me of the water from a vase of flowers. I've had this for a while and at first it really didn't work on me. It turned into some sort of a cat pee-adjacent scent. After a few months, though, this is really a nice, somewhat straightforward aquatic with just a hint of something else along the edges adding a bit of complexity. This is very much not my kind of scent, but if you like aquatic and clean scents and are looking for something with a touch of darkness and mystery, this is for you.

the grave pig!

(2014) i spilled some of this while putting it on yesterday and ... wow what a wild ride. this starts off SCREAMING sufganiyot. not being one for foodie scents, i was a little disappointed. within minutes the doughnutiness of it all died down a bit and the olive came to the front. olive sometimes goes funky on me and unfortunately that was the case here (although if i weren't wearing so much it may have been a nice delicate fuitiness). luckily, the fig and pomegranate came out, brightening the olive, and followed by the candlewax. the candlewax in combination with the fig and olive created a nice deep fruity sweetness with still a bit of juicy brightness. after about an hour the amber /finally/ came out and it was all smiles from there. on my sweater today (two days later) the amber and sufganiyot are still very strong, but smell great together. this is kind of a strange scent. not quite fruity, not quite a typical amber scent, not quite fruity, but it is nice and would be especially good on someone who gets along with olive. i should also add that the amber in this is an incredible, bright amber on me. not powdery at all. definitely worth a try if you're curious.

Fig, oakmoss, mushroom caps, and patchouli. figgy figgy piggy the fig is really strong upon application, but the patchouli and some sort of soft earthiness (not sure if this is from the oakmoss, mushroom caps, or both) are definitely present in the background. this isn't much of a morpher. the fig fades back into balance with the patchouli, but all of the elements noticeable upon application are present throughout the drydown. great last. i have been having a lot of luck with simpler bpals recently and this is no exception. this is not really anything super remarkable, but it is playful, pretty, and very wearable. a nice, cozy, figgy, patchouli. also, my favorite jacket smells like iago permanently because i wear it all the time and these two play /well/ together

Hmmm this is not what I expected. This starts off very sweet. A combination of the oppoponax and the tobacco, perhaps? Although, elsewhere the tobacco is barely perceptible, maybe only adding a little bit of a smokey edge to the leather later on. As it dries down, this becomes an amber-dominated leather scent. The combination of amber and the sweetness I mentioned earlier makes this feel very scrubbed up. It's nice, but not what I was looking for and not really me. I was hoping for a repeat of the success I had with Iago, but there is nothing here I can't get from that blend. I'll keep it around and hope it gets a little darker/more leathery with age, but for now I'm happy with Iago as my go-to dark leather scent.

i really wanted to like lysander and it is nice, but not really my think. however that is precisely because it dries down to a slightly musky tonka and it is too soft for my tastes. tonka lovers should definitely give it a try, though! the opening notes are great (even for someone who is generally more drawn to woods/leather/musks): very floral (lilac/violet) and a little bitey because of the lime.

I am very bad at identifying animal scents at the moment, so this probably will be supremely unhelpful. Definitely very animal with a little spice. It reminds me of that sweet smell that rivers sometimes give off in a forest. Upon application I thought it smelled like a mulchpile, but in a nice way. Great last and sillage. Ultimately a little darker and heavier than I would like (it's like there are /NO/ top notes), but it might be nice to layer with a green/floral scent that needs some grounding. Edit: I've been wearing this regularly over the past month+ and decided that I love it. To me it feels spicy and musky (perhaps it's civet? it smells akin to but not exactly like the other musks I have from the lab) but also strangely neutral and wearable. Definitely getting a bottle with my next order. I also don't really think this is masculine at all. I get more of a femme fatale vibe if anything.

On me, Gaueko = tobacco + sandalwood + lavender period. It's not necessarily bad, and I think the lavender is a nice note to lighten the whole thing up, but I wish the different elements would play with each other in more interesting ways. This isn't really a morpher on me. The sandalwood gets stronger as time goes on, but the lavender and tobacco are still present the whole time. Not bad, but given how much I love tobacco and resins, it is a little disappointing.

Opens with a nicely bracing black pepper over a warm and cozy tobacco note. As it dries it settles into a more resin-dominated place, which is just gorgeous. I need to try a few more of the lab's tobacco/resin scents because this is just incredible. Out of my collection I guess it is most comparable to Gaueko, but this is much greater than the sum of its parts, which I can't say for Gaueko. Nice last and sillage. It makes me feel like I'm enveloped in golden light all day. Edit to update 5 months later: This is definitely one of my favorite BPAL blends that I have. Now that it has settled, the tobacco has backed down a little. I like tobacco, but I'm happy about this because I also like sandalwood and ADORE myrrh and now these two have a time to shine. The tobacco sticks around, though, and keeps things from getting too dry. The black pepper also has been sticking around after the wet stage, adding a bit of spice, which I'm happy about. Stunning.

This starts out all orange blossom and fir on me, with the tobacco adding a little warmth in the background. As it dries, the tobacco note becomes dominant, rounded out by the fir and balsam. There is a little spice coming from the clove and cumin, but I don't think I could have identified those notes specifically. The mint is nowhere to be scene on me, which is okay by me.

Not exactly a pure floral, but I love Lysander (Lilac musk, tonka, wood violet, and urbane lime rind, with a Venus-kissed tangle of myrtle, blackberry leaf, and benzoin). On me it is a nice warm tonka scent that the wood violet and lime really help to brighten.

I am not too familiar with many of the notes in this blend, so this probably won't be that helpful. I wanted to try this blend because I am really into the concept of florals but not that into the actuality of most floral scents. This is a unique, somewhat masculine, restrained floral blend that really fits the bill. Straight out of the imp it smells like sweet florals brightened by the lime. Over time the tonka and lilac musk become more dominant. The only problem is I wish it lasted a little longer on me. I might try to just wear a bit more next time, or else find another use for it (perhaps in the bath?) because the scent itself is just fantastic.

This starts out as an overwhelmingly LEATHER scent on me. It's a little bit tough to get through this phase for me, even though I love leather, but after about a minute the vetiver starts to come out and add some subtlety. As Iago dries down, the musks become more and more dominant until I'm left with a delicate (this word is somehow inappropriate and yet totally not) mixture of musk, a slight smokiness, and the hint of leather. Honestly, I wasn't sold on this but my boyfriend loved it on me so I bought a bottle and now I am so glad I did. The overall result feels cool (as in both hip and frigid, which is unexpected for something this smoky) and cruel and basically makes me feel like a badass. I'm not sure if the makeup of the oil has really changed that much over the few weeks I've been using it or if I've just gotten used to it, but I basically love it now. It's not an everyday scent for me (too masc, I guess?), but it's great for the right occasion. EDIT: I forgot to add that this lasts FOREVER. I basically need to wash this off before I can stop smelling it on my wrists. For me, that is a plus.