QueenProserpina

Ava is back in stock! So luscious! First impression after spilling a third of a brand-new bottle: a lovely, golden, sophisticated blend of sweet, soapy florals I haven’t encountered before, bright citrus, gentle vanilla, and a slight bitter edge, almost minty and reminiscent of toothpaste, that must represent the almond. Reminds me of expensive shampoo! The bitter note is now taking over to an extent, an ashy component I can almost taste, but I expect that it will balance out with aging. I’m getting bitter almond, which is settling into a more pleasant base note, and a hint of vanilla on fabric and bright, glowing, syrupy, fruity florals of dessert-like, jammy lushness and mouthwatering sweetness and tangy citrus on skin, with the vanilla slowly peeking through throughout. I definitely understand another reviewer’s comparison with BBW’s Sensual Amber. At the same time, the aggressive sweetness of the tuberose and citrus put me in mind of a peach or apricot Jolly Rancher. The Lab has captured Ava's combination of excessive girlish sweetness, wild whimsy, and bitter, poisonous, selfish impulsivity.

Eve is back in stock! Breathtaking! Floating, wafting, intoxicating, opening with a prominent incense note reminiscent of Quintessence of Dust or the shisha of Café Mille et une Nuits, underpinned by the sweetness of rose, a hint of spice, and powdery honey. There is a slight impression of dusty floral dryer sheets, reminiscent of The Hourglass, possibly the rose and resin notes interacting, and a feeling of just-burned candles evocative of Quintessence of Dust. The red rose comes to the forefront within an hour or two with the crispness of dried petals that another reviewer mentioned, with rose predominating on fabric and the incense and other uncountable notes of exquisite beauty coming through more strongly on my skin with an impression of sweet and ancient dust. Although it is not listed as a note, I may be getting a faint, indolic hint of jasmine, as another reviewer also mentioned, or lily (unless the damask rose or rosewater are coming through as particularly indolic). As of June 9, the crisp sweetness of rose petals and the indolic quality of rosewater are definitely coming through as separate notes. A cool breath of sandalwood or cedarwood is also coming forth like a suggestion of Old Spice or cologne. The evocative smokiness of incense having been burned follows, rose atop a spicy potpourri with a sophisticated hint of frankincense and myrrh, which blend with the incense, smoke, sandalwood, and calamus to create a sense of “spiciness.” As of June 24, a tarter top note has emerged above the dried red rose petals that I can’t place; likely the yarrow, moss, hawthorn, omphacium, or saffron. That citrusy note may represent the frankincense, or the rosewater, as another reviewer pointed out. On June 25, the tart, sharpish, high-pitched note of rosewater has established itself at the top of the overall fragrance almost like a note of orange juice, calming down throughout the day, and the rose petals are blooming more on skin. By July 6, the high-pitched rosewater has fully distinguished itself from the deeper sweetness of the damask roses. On August 26, I caught my first sniff of a distinctly fresh, minty, almost piney yarrow top note. One of the indolic notes may be the saffron. Many of the notes are ones I am not familiar with (and which, along with the actual incense note, read as a general impression of a complex incense), but they blend seamlessly into a poetic whole that is the perfect interpretation of the character. Late drydown combines a unique rose note, chilly sandalwood, and the grapey myrrh, all so wonderfully powdery. Sweet, complex, ancient, and mysterious! Ethereal, subtle, mysterious, evocative, and enchanting; my most magical OLLA yet. #18!

First wearing: Mouthwatering, gingerbread-like cinnamon coffee! Like another reviewer, I might compare it to a candle, but in a good way. So far, it smells more like a cinnamon roll than coffee or tobacco, emphasizing the spices that are blended with the coffee rather than the coffee itself. Thankfully the strong spices have not irritated my sensitive skin. About four hours after applications, the fragrance has softened considerably, but the smokiness of tobacco or incense is starting to come through. The slightly sneezy spices remind me of craft store potpourri/artificial greenery or florals, or scented artificial Christmas trees/wreaths. Five or six hours in, it is now a beautifully soft blend of spices and incensey tobacco. This is how the spice melange of Dune must smell! BPAL #17!

An impression of leather fades into the deep background quickly, leaving mostly a slightly spicy rock-and-roll patchouli! I agree with another reviewer’s assessment that it has a green and pulpy quality. A sweet and juicy quality may originate with the rum note. BPAL #16!

Initial thoughts: warm and sweet, with the sense of cozy darkness and hints of nuts and Play-Do that other reviewers have noted. As of March 30, this is a sweet and herbaceous scent that no longer evokes Play-Do, with a warmth quite reminiscent of vanilla or tonka. Beautiful! My fifteenth BPAL.

Initial thoughts: opens heavy on jasmine, which is soon sweetened by the honey, which balances the indolic pungency. Several weeks later, has balanced out even more to evoke jasmine tea with honey. Honey and vanilla come forward more on my skin, and jasmine and wood come through more on fabric. My fourteenth fragrance! On June 20, the indolic jasmine is interacting with other sweet notes (possibly the ambrette, saffron, and/or hay) to evoke overripe bananas. On July 27, it has rebalanced.

Glad to have my thirteenth BPAL fragrance! An extremely elegant floral, dominated by an almost sharp lily that is slightly reminiscent of jasmine and gardenia, or even daffodil; the light pungency of spring flowers. Elderly lady church perfume in a good way. I’m getting the impression of other florals in a general chorus, and a small amount of vanilla and/or tonka, but fresh out of the mail, it is mostly a clean and elegant lily. Lasts all day! Update on January 26 with further considerations on February 2: the lily has softened considerably, making the overall fragrance much more balanced among a lovely chorus of sweet, almost dryer-sheet adjacent florals, although it still lends an almost citrusy freshness. As before, the florals stick to fabric and the softer notes of vanilla/tonka stick to my skin. Purchased in January of 2024.

Light and lovely, and lasts all day. Sticks to clothing better than skin. I detect primarily a very fresh, crisp, clean-smelling lily (which starts out rather sharp and almost bitter, and reminds me simultaneously of jasmine and gardenia), citrus from the orange blossoms, and a general impression of resin, including the dark sweetness of myrrh, and a chorus of sweet florals. Almost like a floral dryer sheet, but in a good way (I think that is the violet and maybe dusty clove). The fragrance warms and sweetens in drydown, and I get different notes coming forward on skin than on clothing. I’m not getting the other notes specifically (white rose, violet, clove, carrot seed), but they blend seamlessly into a sweet, mature fragrance that I suspect will bloom as it settles and ages. As of February 5, the rose note is beginning to emerge, and I have determined that a more generous application is needed for real strength. As of February 23, the white rose has stepped forward and completely overtaken the lily, which is now a subtle background note. My twelfth BPAL fragrance, purchased in January of 2024.

I’m gradually amassing the entire OLLA collection and welcoming my eleventh BPAL fragrance! Warm, sweet, spicy, and musky, Diamond Star has an amberish quality that is softly powdery. It took a few weeks to settle after shipping, but has balanced out into a vaguely salty musk/incense blend with a hint of vanilla and possibly caramel and apricot. A subtle, cookie-like spice evokes coconut. The warm, ambery, powdery, vanilla-like note of late drydown is very reminiscent of Streets of Detroit, and I believe represents the myrrh. Purchased in December of 2023. In July 2024, a more cologne-like element is emerging and the general effect is less gourmand.

My tenth BPAL purchase! Sweet, spicy, and delightful! Light throw but lasts through the day. Has the same notes as the spicy components of Blood Popsicle, along with a distinctive incense note, and a woody note that reminds me of Our Hearts Condemn Us. Goes very well with pine/spruce-scented skin products. Purchased in December of 2023.

My ninth BPAL fragrance, October of 2023. Sweet, bright, juicy rose and smooth wood notes, an extremely elegant blend with good staying power and medium throw. Another classic! As of mid-April, a darker, more bitter base note has emerged-- the teakwood? In early June, the notes have rebalanced again, with woody notes coming through strongest on skin and rose shining through on fabric, along with the coolness of sandalwood, something honey-like, and a resinous note that might be mistaken for frankincense, while also being reminiscent of myrrh and opoponax, which must represent the oud.

My eighth BPAL purchase, October of 2023. A delightful blend on me. I get rose and spicy carnation, accompanied by a vague, sweet assortment of other notes, one of which is reminiscent of banana candy (the historical medicinals?) This fragrance has decent staying power and only medium throw. Not my favorite of all time, but I will continue to enjoy it as it matures. Update on December 21: a boozy note has emerged: the absinthe? As of June 27, the rose has strongly overtaken the absinthe and other notes, standing in front of a vague, herbal spiciness, and the throw and sillage have increased significantly, prompting positive comments from a friend! I did apply it much more generously this time. On June 28, I’m noticing that the strong rose and understated floral note of carnation are creating a “dryer sheet” effect. Notes are basically the same on skin vs on fabric.

My seventh BPAL purchase, July of 2023. Dark, sweet, and heavy with a resinous, grapey incense, this one lasts for hours and hours! Over time a powdery note emerges which is quite pleasant. I’m not getting any motor oil. It is possible that the note I’m interpreting as incense is what the Lab titles “musk.” Possible hints of vanilla and/or amber. Has a myrrh note reminiscent of the Lab’s Blood, hinting at the same gooey, syrupy, voluptuous cherry, and a little jasmine. Definitely a winner that I look forward to enjoying for a long time to come! In June of 2024, the grapey incense has been overtaken by a clean, tart, lemony note reminiscent of cleaner, presumably from the black musk. This note is only present on fabric, as is a hint of actual motor oil, leaving the on-skin fragrance exactly as I remember it: grapey incense and sweet, powdery, cherry-tinged myrrh. With time, it has faded overall into the fragrance I know and love. The next day it was less lemony, with more of a sense of general perfuminess. As another reviewer noted, there is a note present that evokes patchouli.

My sixth BPAL purchase, July of 2023. Very different from the others I have selected so far. I get rose, violet, and possibly geranium. Maybe even some clary sage or cedarwood. The fragrance is reminiscent of soap or shampoo (specifically tearless baby shampoo) but in a pleasant way; tart but not unpleasantly so, a grandmotherly scent. Strongly floral. I’m finding that it hits my nose in waves, coming and going with time. Washes off of skin but sticks well to clothing; doesn’t seem to have a dramatic throw. We shall see how long it lasts throughout the day. Update: a few hours later, the elemi seems to be coming out to play! This fragrance lightens with time, and fades in the direction of resinous incense (the frankincense?) but has better staying power for me than The Diamond’s Gong. As of February 9, a honey-like component has crept in! Feb 24: the rose is bright and juicy, supported by other florals and a foundation of resin. As of May 22, the sandalwood is becoming more evident.

My second BPAL fragrance. Very similar to Blood Popsicle from the Only Lovers Left Alive collection, but with less complexity and more cherry in the fruit note, rather than pomegranate and/or berry. A sensual, strong, and long-lasting scent for spooky days and every day!

My fifth BPAL purchase, June 2023. This fragrance must be very different on different people. The first note to make itself evident on my skin is a strong burst of ink, with possible components of smoke and beeswax, which I found slightly sickening, and potentially headache-inducing, almost like a black licorice jellybean, or the scent of an artificial blackberry or purple grape candy. If I am detecting a smoky note, it is not of the campfire variety. After the fragrance dries and settles for awhile, some subtle honey (although that could be beeswax), gentle incense, and a possible blood note surface with the tiniest whiff of salt or metal, and the ink and beeswax calm down somewhat, although the general fragrance has faded into a close-to-the-skin scent. I'm not getting any discernible leather notes, and I’m not certain about the dust. This fragrance would be a favorite if the initial ink/smoke/wax note was not as overwhelming and the scent as a whole was more robust. Update two weeks later: this fragrance has settled after shipping and become one of my favorites! The notes play together better now, and a lovely, powdery note has emerged, leaving the impression of the most lovely candle imaginable. Eleven months later, the blood, tears, and metal are becoming more apparent, adding notable complexity and a sharp, tart, almost lemony tinge.

My fourth BPAL purchase, June of 2023. Sweet, light, and lovely, this one is built around the same core of incense as Blood Popsicle and Funnel of Love. I enjoyed it very much, but I wish this one had more throw and staying power, as it was barely perceptible halfway into the day. Update about three weeks later: I'm disappointed to report that when I have a stuffy nose, this fragrance is extremely faint even right after I put it on. It is akin to the incense core of Blood Popsicle, Quintessence of Dust, Funnel of Love, or Blood hanging on into the next day. Update in late December: the fragrance is finally beginning to strengthen and bloom, and I’m determining that a more generous application is needed. Still a light and delicate fragrance, primarily a very sweet, soft, and twinkling incense, but it’s coming into its own after several months of aging. As of February 12, a shimmering, boozy note of cognac is starting to come through above the powdery incense, and different notes are more prominent on fabric vs. on skin.

This was my third BPAL fragrance, purchased in May of 2023. It has the same core note of sweet, sensual incense or musk as Blood Popsicle, adorned with peppery, lemony notes and earthy patchouli, along with a (not unpleasant) note I would compare to crayon wax. It has good staying power and a beauty reminiscent of Blood Popsicle. As of June of 2024, the jasmine has been a consistent supporting note for awhile now and the champaca is growing more prominent. An almost smoky note arises in late drydown, reminiscent of the shisha of Cafe de Mille et Une Nuits, and the fragrance becomes spicier, softer, and warmer as the hours pass.

This was my first BPAL scent. I loved the movie, and when I discovered that this fragrance series existed, I had to try it! Blood Popsicle is a gorgeous, luscious scent with so many wonderful notes... dark fruits, pomegranate, and incense (the Lab’s musk note?) are the backbone, adorned with florals like jasmine, peony, and gardenia, notes of honey, cinnamon, notes found in In Templum Dei (including some combination of frankincense, cistus labdanum, white sandalwood, and liquidambar), a hint of toothpaste-y spearmint, possibly candy grape, a possible hint of sweet, fruity-floral champaca, and a powdery note of myrrh, and of course... the sensual fragrance of blood itself! It is also incredibly long-lasting, hanging about fabrics for multiple days and even through a shower. It smells just as strong and delicious almost three years after purchase as it did when it was new in October of 2021! In late July of 2024, after not having worn it recently, it opened with myrrh, a woody note, cinnamon, and honey, and I was reminded of how the high-pitched, fruity lead note, which might have been a top note in another perfume, does not fully emerge for several hours. This particular fruity note is hard to define and reminds me of a mouthwatering peach or apricot Jolly Rancher— possibly tuberose. The jasmine also made sure to catch up!