fairnymph

Pale yellow oil. Lavender! Very strong, a bit sharply herbal/medicinal, but also slightly floral. Same, but somehow a bit sweeter and rounder, less pointedly sharp and medicinal, more floral, and almost...honeyed? It's quite a beautiful lavender note. Something distinctly citrusy has emerged - I believe it's sweet orange, because it's going to that Pez powdery candy thing that the lab's orange note does. A shame because the lavender and orange are balancing each other perfectly. I'm reminded of Panacea blends. Lavender fades more and more while sweet orange amps - sadly, it also goes more and more powdery. It's still the strongest orange note (that lasts more than 10 minutes) I've ever smelled in any BPAL blend. The throw is strong in the earlier stages and less so in the later dry ones, but still not too bad for a citrus scent, and longevity after initial lavender fading down is good.

Extremely pale yellow oil, nearly colourless. Spicy greenery - think Host of the Air/Garden Path with Chickens/Green Party. Slightly soapy herbs and flowers, GRASS (a little bitter), and a touch of fizzy citrus - like lemon dishwashing soap, that same note from Independent and Delousing Powder. Fresh, springlike. For florals I'm guessing bluebell and phlox amongst others, although this is not heavily floral.

Deliciously bright, sweet, fresh, fruit but without the cloying aspect of the released version - a much crisper pear note and some other different fruits, too. Substantially different from released version all around, although unfortunately one major difference is that this scent has low throw and miserable longevity, such that my skin devoured this despite slathering within minutes. A favourite, but not sure it's worth it considering its rapid evanescence.

Sharp, soapy, synthetic chemicalness (isopropyl/rubbing alcohol with a bit of fake butter); aptly poisonous. Please note that I really hate anything buttery personally, so I am not likely to review any blend that is buttery in a positive light, even popular foody GC scents, so your experience may differ. I also have yet to skin test this one. It did sell out though, I think?

Pale golden oil. Spicy greenery with spring florals . GRASSY. Phlox/nasturtium, daisy and something light and almost aquatic - clover and/or heather, I think. Reminds me a lot of The Host of the Air & Garden Path with Chickens. Almost identical to HotA except not berry note; less sweet and fruity. But both have a hint of herbal bitterness. Very green and springlike, fresh and outdoorsy. I look forward to testing this one further!

Sniffed: Light golden oil. Rotting florals (i.e. iris), spring flowers, white florals, soap, and maybe a soft aquatic rain-like note. Wet: OH HI GARDENIA. Stompity stomp! I'm not sure what that super-soapy note is - several florals go very soapy on me, but I strongly suspect moonflower because I get that sort of cool/lunar/blue feel that I associate with moonflower, and it isn't totally terrible or overwhelmingly soapy. The iris here is stronger than in AF18 or maybe it's just that because this gardenia note (which is different) is less intense, I can smell other things more. Dry: There are some herbal notes in this - some slightly bitter greenery, and a sort of sappy/crushed new leaves sort of note, and some cucumber, which I think gave it that aquatic aspect I picked up on earlier. I'm reminded of some of the floral lunar blends, it has that sort of feel. Gardenia is still the strongest note, but it's settled a bit and isn't totally dominating, though it's what I do smell first from faaaaar away. I do believe there is an orchid note in this and maybe a touch of ylang-ylang. Very complex, and pretty well blended. Summary: The orchid and ylang-ylang amp over time, and I also think there is a lily of some type and lily of the valley - there's a heaviness to this blend that I get with LotV. This reminds me of a few different BPAL blends - Eternal, The Lady of Shallot, Veil, Ace of Hearts, Kindly Moon and vaguely, Blue Moon 2007. There is a definite sweetness to this that builds over time, as does the heaviness, while the soapiness of earlier mostly dissipates. The drydown's not bad - a complex, sophisticated, feminine floral - but it's too heavy for my tastes. Powerful throw & longevity.

Spices, wood, woods and fruits - I think it's actually cassia, combined with clove, dry ginger, carnation and definitely cedar. At first there is a strong plum that fades or is overtaken by the cedar and spice which my skin love to amp, but I do still get the plum note on drydown - it's possibly that wild plum note from The Witch Queen. There's also a grainy/nutty note here, that reminds me of the Harvest Moons and a little bit of Pomona - maybe that azereole nut? I also get a more evergreeny sort of woodsy note, but resinous - copal, I strongly suspect, or maybe pine pitch - this reminds me of The Illustrated Woman & The Pickled Imp quite a bit but with fruity sweetness instead of vanilla. This becomes spicier and sweeter on my skin over time, unsurprisingly, as I tend to amp both of those.

NARKISSOS Thus did the nymphs in vain caress the boy, He still was lovely, but he still was coy; When one fair virgin of the slighted train Thus pray'd the Gods, provok'd by his disdain, "Oh may he love like me, and love like me in vain!" Rhamnusia pity'd the neglected fair, And with just vengeance answer'd to her pray'r. There stands a fountain in a darksom wood, Nor stain'd with falling leaves nor rising mud; Untroubled by the breath of winds it rests, Unsully'd by the touch of men or beasts; High bow'rs of shady trees above it grow, And rising grass and chearful greens below. Pleas'd with the form and coolness of the place, And over-heated by the morning chace, Narcissus on the grassie verdure lyes: But whilst within the chrystal fount he tries To quench his heat, he feels new heats arise. For as his own bright image he survey'd, He fell in love with the fantastick shade; And o'er the fair resemblance hung unmov'd, Nor knew, fond youth! it was himself he lov'd. The well-turn'd neck and shoulders he descries, The spacious forehead, and the sparkling eyes; The hands that Bacchus might not scorn to show, And hair that round Apollo's head might flow; With all the purple youthfulness of face, That gently blushes in the wat'ry glass. By his own flames consum'd the lover lyes, And gives himself the wound by which he dies. To the cold water oft he joins his lips, Oft catching at the beauteous shade he dips His arms, as often from himself he slips. Nor knows he who it is his arms pursue With eager clasps, but loves he knows not who. What could, fond youth, this helpless passion move? What kindled in thee this unpity'd love? Thy own warm blush within the water glows, With thee the colour'd shadow comes and goes, Its empty being on thy self relies; Step thou aside, and the frail charmer dies. Still o'er the fountain's wat'ry gleam he stood, Mindless of sleep, and negligent of food; Still view'd his face, and languish'd as he view'd. At length he rais'd his head, and thus began To vent his griefs, and tell the woods his pain. "You trees," says he, "and thou surrounding grove, Who oft have been the kindly scenes of love, Tell me, if e'er within your shades did lye A youth so tortur'd, so perplex'd as I? I, who before me see the charming fair, Whilst there he stands, and yet he stands not there: In such a maze of love my thoughts are lost: And yet no bulwark'd town, nor distant coast, Preserves the beauteous youth from being seen, No mountains rise, nor oceans flow between. A shallow water hinders my embrace; And yet the lovely mimick wears a face That kindly smiles, and when I bend to join My lips to his, he fondly bends to mine. Hear, gentle youth, and pity my complaint, Come from thy well, thou fair inhabitant. My charms an easy conquest have obtain'd O'er other hearts, by thee alone disdain'd. But why should I despair? I'm sure he burns With equal flames, and languishes by turns. When-e'er I stoop, he offers at a kiss, And when my arms I stretch, he stretches his. His eye with pleasure on my face he keeps, He smiles my smiles, and when I weep he weeps. When e'er I speak, his moving lips appear To utter something, which I cannot hear. "Ah wretched me! I now begin too late To find out all the long-perplex'd deceit; It is my self I love, my self I see; The gay delusion is a part of me. I kindle up the fires by which I burn, And my own beauties from the well return. Whom should I court? how utter my complaint? Enjoyment but produces my restraint, And too much plenty makes me die for want. How gladly would I from my self remove! And at a distance set the thing I love. My breast is warm'd with such unusual fire, I wish him absent whom I most desire. And now I faint with grief; my fate draws nigh; In all the pride of blooming youth I die. Death will the sorrows of my heart relieve. Oh might the visionary youth survive, I should with joy my latest breath resign! But oh! I see his fate involv'd in mine." This said, the weeping youth again return'd To the clear fountain, where again he burn'd; His tears defac'd the surface of the well, With circle after circle, as they fell: And now the lovely face but half appears, O'er-run with wrinkles, and deform'd with tears. "Ah whither," cries Narcissus, "dost thou fly? Let me still feed the flame by which I die; Let me still see, tho' I'm no further blest." Then rends his garment off, and beats his breast: His naked bosom redden'd with the blow, In such a blush as purple clusters show, Ere yet the sun's autumnal heats refine Their sprightly juice, and mellow it to wine. The glowing beauties of his breast he spies, And with a new redoubled passion dies. As wax dissolves, as ice begins to run, And trickle into drops before the sun; So melts the youth, and languishes away, His beauty withers, and his limbs decay; And none of those attractive charms remain, To which the slighted Echo su'd in vain. She saw him in his present misery, Whom, spight of all her wrongs, she griev'd to see. She answer'd sadly to the lover's moan, Sigh'd back his sighs, and groan'd to ev'ry groan: "Ah youth! belov'd in vain," Narcissus cries; "Ah youth! belov'd in vain," the nymph replies. "Farewel," says he; the parting sound scarce fell >From his faint lips, but she reply'd, "farewel." Then on th' wholsome earth he gasping lyes, 'Till death shuts up those self-admiring eyes. To the cold shades his flitting ghost retires, And in the Stygian waves it self admires. For him the Naiads and the Dryads mourn, Whom the sad Echo answers in her turn; And now the sister-nymphs prepare his urn: When, looking for his corps, they only found A rising stalk, with yellow blossoms crown'd. Gently blushing vanilla, haughty opoponax, duosmon, oude, and narcissus. Floral - in that rotten floral way I've been getting in many of the recent LE blends, a few of the Lupers included, and here I'm guessing narcissus is the culprit. Narcissus is never a note I like - usually it's sharp and harsh, but I prefer that to this heady, sour rotten note. The oude is very green and adds to the overall sour feel, I think. I don't know what duosmon is, but the only thing I could find from googling claimed it was either dill, anise, or cumin. I do get something a bit pickly, so it could be there is some dill here. Sadly, I'm not getting any vanilla. I am definitely getting some of the dusty opoponax (i.e. myrrh), however. This is an odd, jumbled blend that's I guess sort of masculine (appropriately), but not at all beautiful. I'm scared to skin test it. Better - I get some of the vanilla now, which I do think is 'gently blushing' - it's a light sort, almost floral like vanilla orchid, with a delicate sweetness. The narcissus is still rotting flowers, but the oude has smoothed out into a pleasantly green and woody note that's fresh but also adds depth. The mystery note now smells a little anise like, and for some reason this blend DOES remind me of Pink Mood (even though it feels utterly different), so I think that yes, anise is the duosmon here. The myrrh is still here, but no stronger, thank god - this is fresher and more balanced on my skin. Apparently narcissus now smells like lilac on my skin. This is the same foul note from Penis Admiration and is likewise dominating all the other notes on my skin - although a bit of that strange anisey note comes through too, and it's just as revolting. The myrrh has amped a little, particularly its dark, bitter aspect. The oude is overwhelmed, sadly. I can pick out more vanilla now, but as in Pink Mood, it seems to combine with the anisey note in a cloying and unpleasant manner - sickly sweet and anisey/spicy. This is going a bit soapy, and the overwhelming rotten-floral narcissus over cloying rich vanilla-anise (honestly, the vanilla is more like tonka here to my nose, or a fake vanillin note) darkened by bitter, dusty myrrh is making me feel nauseated, and the fresh, smooth green oude wood is not nearly enough to make this bearable. Masculine, definitely. Strong throw and longevity. If you like Penis Admiration and Pink Mood, give it a go, but personally I'm headed to the sink.

In the bottle: Grassy paper/wood pulp - much like Ü, but a much softer, lighter scent. On me: Greener, brighter. Definitely some fresh-cut grass, some of that same balsam note from Ü, some dry wood that could be a sandalwood, or a well-behaved cedar (the wood note reminds me a bit of the woodiness in Jolly Roger), and a light, sweet floral (s) which I am almost positive is cherry blossom - maybe some peony in here too, and something like a vanilla musk? It's slow to dry but sweetening rapidly on my skin. I also get a fruity edge, something-sweet tart and tropical - mangosteen? This is very multi-faceted and complex and doesn't fit neatly into one category of scent. It has green, woody, musky, floral and fruity elements but I wouldn't peg it as clearly being ONE of those - it reminds me of Croquet in that regard.

Sniffed: Kiwi and spearmint and honeydew melon - sweeter, less tart and less zingy than the released version. Less herbal, more straight fruit Wet: Uh...cinnamon? Or some kind of sweet spice? Way, way sweeter on my skin. I also get a berry-ish sort of note. No grass, none of that greenery from the released, though there is the same kiwi note. Dry: I definitely think it's cassia, NOT cinnamon. Carnation and/or bitter clove, as well? Still kiwi, but not much other fruit. Also, maybe some woody? This has a rich warmth to it, very unlike the released version. This has become insanely musky - green musk and possibly others, amping over time on my skin. Later: The light woods/musk drydown reminds me greatly of 51 - really nice - with the green kiwi taking the place of the green fruits in that blend. This is pretty darn spicy, in a warm/creamy, sort of exotic way. After a while it starts to remind me a fair deal of I Married A Vampire From Planet X. It lacks the cool cleanness of the released version; it's more rich warmth. Summary: Musk, carnation, bitter clove, cassia, and maybe some amber? Along with a ripe kiwi note that fades over time, those 'light woods' from 51, and a hint of some sort of citrus. This becomes mostly spicy, slightly powdery, woody MUSK after an hour or two. Good throw & excellent longevity. It's radically different from the released version which I tested side-by-side, well, on my other arm, that is! This is much spicier, stronger, muskier and richer. The released dries down to a faint, cool, minty clean scent, and this dries down to spicy, creamy, slightly woody MUSK and has way better throw & longevity. Note: I just noticed the 'released version' I refer to - the DD scent - is That! The Terror From Over There! - so there was a name change, too, apparently. But my bottle definitely says THING.

Pale yellow oil. Junipery GIN - very boozy & sharp, with other greenery. Cypress, galangal, ginger - this is a bit spicy-fresh, too. Intensely green, refreshing, and masculine. I also get the same leather note from Sacrifice. I put a little on my roommate, and the ginger really bloomed on his skin, becoming quite spicy. A sweetness which evaded me in the bottle emerged strongly, too, probably tonka and/or benzoin - a rich, deep sort of sweetness. The cypress and gin are really beautiful evergreen notes, not overwhelming, very woodsy and realistic, not the 'fake pine' I get often in BPAL. This is not really like any other BPAL blend I've smelled, but it vaguely reminds me of Hellhound on My Trail, without the smokiness of the tobacco and brimstone. Instead this has the leather and ginger for depth, and juniper-gin takes the places of bay rum. They're similarly structured, share some notes and both evoke the same sort of intensely manly but paradoxically still outdoorsy and lightly fresh feel. My roommate is insanely picky, but he really likes this, and I like it on him!

Sniffed: Colourless oil. Rose! Lovely fresh, girlish tea rose, with maybe some soft green and woody notes below? Wet: Darn. This goes sharp on me, the way that Rose Red does - it's plasticky/slick. It almost has a fruity nuance, too.There's also a spicy note that smells like clove. Actually this reminds me more of Red Rose, the Lupercalia scent. I think the clove is partly what's giving the woody note. Dry: I think there may be the fir note as well, and something almost foody - I think this has tonka too. It reminds me GREATLY of Red Rose - the clove note is definitely identical. But the rose note is slightly different here, more like Rose Red as said, slightly sharp and chemically. Summary: The clove doesn't amp and the fir, if it's here (I think it is but I'm not as sure about it as I am the clove), is much lighter, so this works better on me than Rose Red - but it's still far too rich with the tonka, and I really just hate clove. Very strong throw and longevity.

Deep reddish-brown/cola coloured oil. Red musk and spice (possibly carnation?), plumeria and a hint of coconut. Reminds me a lot of B.B3 and Shango, but this has less coconut than those and more spice. This also reminds me a lot of Snake Oil and the Snake Pit scents. More vanilla here, and those SO resins. Should be a popular one, but not my thing at all.

Fruity soap that I expect will go powdery, too, once on my skin.

Fresh, gender-neutral asiatic, a very light and inoffensive scent that will need skin testing to reveal any nuances.

Pale gold oil. Chocolate, carnation, and rose? Reminds of Kali, but spicier from the carnation. This one requires further testing, because I love Kali.

Sweet-tart bright food that develops a deep, rich and sexy creaminess over time on my skin. Definitely a vanilla note, and maybe something like white cognac and some actual cream. I'm having great difficulty pinning down the fruit note(s) in this - strawberry and rhubarb, maybe? So those two fruits with a sugared vanilla cream and touch of booze and a very rich musk, Indian or Egyptian - that sort of deep and sexy type that isn't black or red. It's almost like a strawberry-rhubarb version of Gothabilly. It definitely gets sweeter and foodier on me over time, almost becoming cakey.

Sniffed: Golden oil. Crisp, juicy, sweet-tart apple - a little like sour apple candy. This is straight up apple in the bottle - nothing else. Wet: SO strong! The strongest, crispest apple note from the lab ever. I get more of the green apple sort of sourness - but I get red apple sweetness, too. It's like sour green apple candy, granny smith apples, pink lady & honeycrisp apples altogether. I almost get a hint of...soap? underneath all the appley goodness, but otherwise this is just APPLES. Dry: The apples have baked themselves! Oh why oh why does apple do this on my skin? Fresh apple notes so often turn to baked apple or applesauce. It's sour apple candy (lightly) and baked apples now. A bit sweeter, less tart and crisp. I get little bit of a sweet note - honey? Yes, I think it's honey, though it's very light, like clover honey. Summary: The final drydown reminds me of a honeyed version of Sugar-Slathered Candy Apple. It's light candy apple (that sour apple note holds, amazingly) with a sort of honey-caramel note on top that amps as the apple fades. It also reminds me of baked apples that have caramelised sugar on them, or maybe caramelised honey - it's a foody drydown, but light - not too sweet or rich, and I really like it. This one I shall be keeping! Moderate throw, decent longevity. Very few apple notes hold me for more than an hour, so this is impressive. Definitely my favourite apple scent of all time.

Colourless oil. Soapy powder. Ivory soap, in fact, and bajillions of orrisy violets. Maybe a touch of white rose? Floral-powder-soap, and this is not even on my skin! INTENSE. I immensely prefer the released version. I had hopes this would be at least somewhat similar...but nope.

Light peachy-pink oil. Dirt, dragon's blood, and loads of white mint. Not like any other BPAL I've smelled, but a rather outdoorsy take on DB - and definitely recommended for fans of Ars Draconis. A simple blend of notes that work well together - or as well as DB can ever work, considering it's a note I personally can't stand.

Sniffed: Pale golden oil. Slightly sweet, rotten, and strong white florals. Which means iris, ugh. I also get a floral that's sharp and sweet, like mimosa, a jasmine note, and walloping dose of gardenia. This is a LOUD and evil floral blend of notes I detest. Wet: GARDENIA. Stomping over everything, piercing and amping like a crazy thing on my skin, with that base of other nasty flowers below. This is the type of gardenia that can induce migraines, so I'm off to sink. I guess at least the gardenia beat the jasmine and iris into submission? Of course, like all horrid blends, it refuses to come off my skin and has absolutely insane, inescapable throw. Eeeeeek.

Fruity - red cherry, I think? With maybe some soft cassia and/or sweet clove?

Pale yellow oil. WISTERIA! and orris with dry woods. Weirdly viscous oil, too - the pipette won't suck up more than a tiny bit at a time. Maybe a jasmine note in here, too? These are florals I simply cannot do, so no further testing for this one.

Pale gold oil. SOIL, wet soil and the new spring greenery. Reminds me greatly of Planting Moon, with more soil and minus the florals, but very similar greenery and nearly identical in vibe. I don't like soil so I can't do this personally, but this is more what I was hoping PM would be like. There's a fresh, cool, outdoorsy wetness to this. Very evocative.

Colourless oil. Dark, French roast coffee beans (not brewed coffee, not the lab's coffee bean or coffee note, but actual BEANS ground up) and roast meat, possibly roast cow of some cut. Odd! I had the most trouble with this one - figuring it out - and my roommate doesn't get meat but gets chocolate, which I didn't get at all.