fairnymph

In the bottle: Pale honey coloured oil. Slightly sweet and herbal flowers. A little sour. Woodsy. Wet: Similar, but less sweet, cleaner - a touch soapy, ahh moonflower. I'm pretty sure I can smell the phlox and gladiolus, but there are a bunch of florals I can't identify. I love the herbal-planty undercurrent in this. Dry: Dries quickly, revealing the nicotiana, which is heady and exotic and adds depth and a luxurious feel to the blend. Okay, I lied about the sweetness. It's all super sweet again. And sort of a little spicy. Summary: Heady, sweet and spicy mixed floral, with nicotiana in the fore. A bit herbal-woodsy with some soapy-clean moonflower, but not enough to make this bearable. Very strong throw, won't wash off.

In the bottle: Very pale yellow oil. Both citruses, mint, tea, plasticky leather, a bit of woody teak. Definitely sleek and smooth. Complex, unisex. Wet: Softer. Lemon and mint lighter, grapefruit faint. A bit soapy-powdery, probably the amber. Tea lighter. Something a bit herbal, kush maybe. It's a bit floral, but not distinctly orchid. Dry: Mint-lemon powdery soap with that plasticky leather note and some heady flower, presumably the orchid, which to me make the blend seem quite feminine. The hint of herbal kush and very faint teakwood are nice, but cannot redeem this. Summary: So fricking powdery I want to sneeze. Amber usually goes powdery on me, but not in such an intense and SOAPY manner. Eventually the orchid is identifiable, but overall it's a very simplistic drydown that I intensely dislike. Decent throw.

In the bottle: Sweet and woody, faint flowers. Evergreen plants, herbs, some dark incense, maybe frankincense. Spicy and smoky. Wet: Less green and fresh, still sweet, spicier and smokier. Many notes complexly blended, making it difficult for me decipher. I guess it's most like sweet fir trees in a bonfire, right now. Dry: Dries very slowly. It's definitely dark on me; the smoky and earthy notes do evoke a bit of decay, but overall I consider it more woodsy, like being in a forest. There is some sharp green note I really dislike - I think it's lime, but a horrid artificial rancid sickly sweet lime. Later: Hmm, those faint florals a bit headier, also powdery and soapy. I'm guessing lily and maybe violet. There's some wetly herbal fresh greenery though mingling with the smoke and incense and piney note. Summary: The flowers dry down powdery and the lime leaves an artificial candy sweet stain, but mostly this smoky-green herbs and evergreen, over some frankincense and spicy opium. It's heavy and gloomy. Moderate throw. Yeah, other than the pleasant herbalness, I entirely dislike this and washed it off.

In the bottle: Ozone, rain, ocean. Clean, fresh, a little cologney. A little unnatural (but not artificial). Wet: Something green and a little sharp has emerged; otherwise, it is much the same. Very aquatic but ozone really does tingle. Dry: There's a bizarre glassiness to this - as if glass has a smell, or maybe electrons whizzing along fiber optic, also unlikely to have a scent - but that's what I feel. I don't quite understand how it can be so vivid yet seamless. Later: The sharpness fades enough that this is very bright and still has an edge, but it's also smooth and aquatic. I don't get citrus; maybe faint white flowers and wet leaves. Really evocative! Summary: Though abundantly clean and fresh, it never goes soapy on me. It's lively ozone, faint white flowers and a bit of lush greenery. Aquatic, but not quite cool; it has too much energy for that. Paradoxical and unlike anything else I've smelled. Unisex to masculine. Amazing throw and lasting power. Not my style, but an amazing olfactory experience.

In the bottle: All fruits clearly distinct, though the pineapple hits first. Extremely fruity. Beneath I can smell delicate peony and heady jasmine, the kick of pink pepper and fresh ginger, and a bit of herbal-smooth white tea. Reminds me vaguely of a Ecstasy of Infatuation. Wet: Lighter; despite being very fruity, it's not candy sweet, but rather refreshing and exotic and a little tart. Mango and kiwi amp a bit. The fruit is truly in command at this stage. Dry: Dries almost instantly, becoming a bit less fresh and tart. The ginger is more apparent though, and provides some freshness of its own. The pink pepper is faint, but when I breath in deeply it tingles my nose. Peony has amped and is wonderfully rose-like, but gentler, and very feminine. There's only a hint of jasmine. Fruit and flowers now balanced. Later: Gah, the jasmine is amping and doing its soapy thing; the peony has amped also. The fruit has receded a bit; the blend is more floral than fruity now. Pepper and ginger especially still present, though, so they cut through the florals somewhat. Sexy musk, indeed light and very feminine, has emerged. White tea is faint, but detectable with effort. Summary: The jasmine settles down into a faint clean floral (amazingly!), while peony remains lovely. Otherwise, I'm getting a lot of delicious pineapple and kiwi, such that this is mostly tart-fruity, and a whole lot of delicious musk, spiked with bright ginger. The pink pepper has amped a bit, annoyingly, but lies so close to the skin that it's not generally noticeable. Tea is faint, but does provide a smoothly herbal base in conjunction with the musk. Initially this has fabulous throw, but it fades very rapidly. I'll hang onto my imp, and I'd get a partial bottle if I came across one, but this is close enough to (and less wonderful on me than) Ecstasy of Infatuation. It's a lovely, complex, feminine tropical fruity-floral.

In the bottle: Light, floral, and slightly herbal lavender. Surprisingly delicate, and not sharp or medicinal at all. Wet: Much more herbal, less floral, and overall stronger. It does have a blue feel; like being in a field of fresh greenery, crushed and emanating up into a bright blue sky. It's very bright and vivid, but without being harsh or astringent. Definitely one of the most gorgeous lavenders I've smelled. Overall, the scent is wonderfully cool and clear, light nighttime dew. Dry: Dries very quickly, becoming sweeter and more floral in the process. The mostly herbal, slightly floral lavender still reigns, but the magnolia brings a lushness to the blend. It's not the heady, in-your-face sort, but the more delicate, citrusy-sweet type, nocturnal and youthful. It's the perfect foil for the lavender; both can be overpowering notes, but here they keep each other in check and blend seamlessly. Later: The lavender remains in dominance, but the magnolia is still clearly distinct. I've smelled some magnolia species that have strong citrusy notes, but I think it's also possible there is some actual citrus in here, which could be adding some sweetness too. The blend is a bit astounding, because it's both heady and fresh; it has strength, but also a clean purity. Even a little musk seems to be joining; I'd guess crystalline musk, appropriately. Summary: It's herbal-woodsy, as if all parts of the lavender plant have been used -stems, leaves and flowers - and softly yet deeply floral from both the lavender and especially the magnolia. While heady and potent, it's citrusy fresh, and has a touch of light, feminine sweetness which grows over time as the musk amps. While the lavender is always foremost, the magnolia and sweet musk grow to be almost as strong - amazingly balanced. Decent throw and good lasting power. This blend is simple the way that white light is simple; shining and pure and whole, but actually it's incredibly complex, comprised of every colour of the rainbow in perfect harmony. Nocturnal and definitely 'blue' in feel, a deep, vivid indigo tinged with silvery violet. Beautifully refined, regal, classic. Magical, even, and it evokes Yvaine perfectly - brava, Beth! So far, I've fallen completely in love with every Stardust scent I've tried, so a bottle of this shall be added to my bottles of Fairy Wine, Victoria, and Fairy Market.

In the bottle: Very pale yellow oil. White flowers, ozone. A bit sweet and spicy and woody. Cologney, unisex to masculine. Wet: Less sweet, a bit more floral. The metallic notes are light, kind of like ozone, but don't tingle my nose quite the way ozone does. Still, very evocatively metallic. Less sweet, but spicier and woodier. Lilies? Dry: Yes, I think one of the floral notes (there seem to be multiple and they merge together) is the lily from Black Lily, and I think it may be providing the light sweetness. Even though this is still spicy, it has a clean, light feel to it. Later: A slightly soapy, heady floral has emerged - jasmine, I think, but it's very light. I think the spice is pepper, though I'm not sure of white or black, I'm tempted to say the latter because it reminds me of the peppery note in Crypt Queen. I love the fresh lily which I seem to amp. There's some woody heat and soft amber, too. Summary: Initially this is pretty strong, very cologne-y, but it fades very quickly. It's zingy-metallic notes, warm, deep wood, with touches of powdery amber and almost foody sweetness - creamy and peppery. Then there is a bit of sweet lily and soapy jasmine from within a blend of cologney white florals. In the end it turns a bit more feminine, but still not strongly sex-specific. Low throw, good lasting power. Really bizarre blend and in addition to it having a few notes I dislike (amber, jasmine, pepper), it's just not my style, and is too 'warm'. Well-crafted and utterly unique, though.

In the bottle: Cold, floral, woodsy. Fits the description perfectly. A little piney, a little sweet and violety. Some minty notes too. Wet: Muskier, sweeter. Soft but still cool. The flowers are less heady but no weaker. Woods are complex, but light. The evergreen and some spearmint (and maybe wintergreen?) make this cool, but I detect a little dry cedar. Dry: Sweeter, mintier. Woods and floral remain light. Musk has amped a bit and the violet too, which is very nice and not powdery. I can pick out the rosy-green hellebore and bright snowdrop. Later: This definitely has that lunar feel; it's a bit herbal now, pleasantly so. The pine is very distant and totally wearable (this coming from a pine-abhorrer). The flowers are feminine and have amped up a bit, the minty sweetness has receded. Most notably, the dry, woodsy cedar is really amping. Summary: Strongly dry cedar and musky woods with delicate wildflowers on the drydown with lighter notes of cool-sweet mint and evergreen. It's a lovely, complex lunar blend, cool-woodsy-floral and slightly feminine, though the right man could pull it off. Sadly, while the cedar doesn't completely takeover as it usually does, it's still too strongly amped on my skin.

Channukiyah is PURE CARAMEL on me, from the beeswax (though occasionally beeswax isn't caramel on me, it usually is, and especially in this case).

In the bottle: Sugary sweet, but not foody at all; wildflowers and a hint of fresh lavender, the gentle floral sort, and wisps of smoky incense and grass. Airy and aquatic; amazingly unique, complex, and evocative. A wrist-sniffer immediately, and absolutely otherworldly. Ethereal, but earthy and complex. Wet: Sweet, like sugared violets on cake, but not foody. More heavily floral, though all the notes are so well blended they are difficult to pick apart. The grass note is fresher, brighter, greener and also merges a bit with the herbal aspect of the lavender - the result is almost sharp, but just enough to balance the sweet and floral note. The smoky incense are like light breezes, not dark or strong at all. Dry: The sweet note has softened into something honeylike on my skin, which is wonderful as I adore honey! It is quite sweet, but just this side of bearable. The flowers and grass are quite strong, as if one is outside immersed in a field in full bloom with sunlight streaming down; fresh, but sort of warm and bright as well. The astringency of the lavender and grass has faded to more general fresh greenery. Later: Stays very sweet, but in a soft floral manner, not a sticky-foody way - the 'candied' note reminds me of the same one in Earth Rat - that same degree of sweetness. It's almost a little fruity, like wild plums or berries; rich, dark fruit that's herbal and a bit spicy. The incense notes remind me a bit of those in Les Bijoux or in Phoenix Steamworks, in that they provide a sort of earthy and exotic haze, without being dark, dusty, or cloying. Summary: A huge armful of delicate but full-bloom wildflowers glows with a honeyed-sweet haze, blending with green herbs, sexy musk, hints of wild fruit, and lightly smoky resins and woods in perfect harmony; notes can be distinguished without breaking the unity of the blend as a whole. Utterly feminine and exotically fantastical. Good throw and lasting power. Despite its significant sweetness, I must get a bottle! I see why this is so popular; it appeals to a broad range of tastes but is not overpowering in any one scent category. It does have a very faint touch of powder (some form of amber?) after a few hours, but it's completely bearable, and gives the blend a warm, soft, muted feel, like lying lazily in a sunny field during a late afternoon in August.

In the bottle: Citrusy, delicately floral linen, piney-smooth tea, and dry woody notes. Surprisingly fresh, very clean, but with a suggestion of dryness to come. Unisex. Wet: Tea (even smoother, dryer, less piney) and softer linden, slightly less fresh and citrusy. There's a planty sort of note, almost aquatic, smooth, kind of reedy, that reminds me of bamboo, or even aloe a bit - maybe the papyrus? In combination with a light oak note, it grounds the blend. Dry: Hmm, somehow this has become MORE citrusy; I'm strongly suspecting there's some bergamot in this, on top of the natural citrus elements of the linden. The bergamot, tea, linden, and papyrus (which reminds me slightly, vaguely of oude) are dominating. The oak is more of a suggestion. Later: The bergamot is holding so far! As are the sweet, floral linden, resiny-papyrus and smoothly green yet deeper tea leaf - to me, it's more of a green tea note. The oak has emerged a bit more; it's woodsy but too dry or masculine; just deep and rounded. Orris has finally come out to play, but is very light; it's a bit powdery and dry, but not overwhelmingly heady. Summary: In the final drydown, this reminds me of a fresher (almost spicily so - fresh ginger perhaps?), less dusty version of The Phantom Wooer, or a cross between it and Kumiho. The citrus note lasts wonderfully, the linden provides lovely sweetness, it's almost honeyed, and the papyrus and oak bring wonderful resiny and woody depth to the whole blend. The tea leaf is very green - the same note from Shanghai and F5, piney and fresh, and actually amps over time. Orris adds the barest hint of dust. Even some sexy, mildly sweet musk has emerged! Amazingly unisex. Good throw but fades fast. This is a wrist-sniffer, and would be lovely in warmer months as refreshing pick me up. I also think this would be gorgeous on the right man.

In the bottle: Honey coloured oil. Sweet, floral, woody. The ylang ylang, sandalwood, and rose jump out. Wet: Less sweet, a bit more herbal - the geranium, which adds a fresh touch, and other unidentifiables. The rose is stronger and there's a touch of sharp-swee musk. If I strain, maybe a hint of fruit, but it's very faint. I wouldn't peg it as apple, and certainly not the tart crisp sort. Dry: This has gone powdery, some how. I think I detect some jasmine, so that could be the culprit, or possibly some amber. The sandalwood is quite dry and a bit sharp, almost masculine, and the fresh geranium note has completely faded. Ylang ylang still strong with rose just behind. Later: The sandalwood is so dry, dusty, and masculine in this, and along with the heady, oddly sharp-sweet ylang ylang, and sour rose (white rose, is that you?) dominates the blend. White musk lingers sweetly and brightly behind. Apple and geranium are long gone. Summary: Dry, potent sandalwood, sweet heady ylang ylang, sour dried rose petals, soapy-powdery jasmine and a hint of light musk. Overall, dusty sharp woods and heady elderly florals. Strong throw and lasting power. I had to run to the sink, though. The 2007 Zodiac version (of which I own two bottles) is ever so much nicer on me!

In the bottle: Smooth, slightly sweet piney-herbal white tea and fresh sharp ginger. Refreshing and light; not what I would call biting. Wet: White tea, whoa! I've never smelled it so clearly in a blend before. It is very, very smooth, and almost citrusy in its herbalness. Delightful! It's like a sweeter, citrusy version of the lab's green tea note. The ginger remains light and fresh in that juicy-bright way, not the overly sharp dry way. Yes, there's a kick, but it's light. Dry: I think there's citrus beyond the tea note; my guess would be yuzu zest, and/or possibly grapefruit, because it's quite tart-sour but also a bit juicy. Along with the herbal tea and freshly spicy ginger, this is a lovely blend. Simple, but wonderfully coherent and balanced. Later: That zesty citrus has faded, and overall, this has weakened. The white tea stays true though, as does the zing from the fresh ginger. While less crisp, it's still very lively and bright. There's a mild soapy note that keeps this clean. This has a pale, white, misty feel. Summary: This softens and fades rather rapidly, but is a wonderfully seamless blend of fresh, invigorating ginger and herbal, smooth white tea, with faint hints of citrus zest and a clean aquatic note. Very unisex, cool, and refreshing, but without being at all sharp or astringent. Low throw, poor lasting power; needs to be slathered. Very enjoyable but a bit one-dimensional and unisex for my tastes, as well as so short-lived and light in throw. It could have potential for layering with sweet scents which need some brightening with fresher notes.

Yeah, seriously! A lilac without cedar or wisteria! Sounds like it might be worth checking out Villian and His Station, and I can maybe layer them with other stuff to make them more feminine as necessary. Thanks! Hmm, Melancholia terrifies me but if Virahotkantita doesn't amp too cedary and the frankincense behaves...maybe I should give it a shot! Do you recall how sweet it was on you? I don't like super sweet blends. (Gosh, I'm picky!)

I really want a good LILAC blend! Lilac is my all time favourite flower, and so far BPAL has not fulfilled me. What I've tried, and doesn't work: Rose Moon, White Moon, Les Fleurs du Mal, Nocturne, Veil, Blood Countess, Whitechapel, Cordelia, Lysander, Night Thoughts, Fox Fires (the best of the bunch but too smoky), Spirit of the Komachi Cherry Tree, Pontarlier Have not tried, but scare me: Dragon's Eye (but lily of the valley is a nemesis note, and I don't like dragon's blood much), Ouija (but rosewood scares me, don't like 'dry' notes), Bruja (amber and myrrh nearly always bad), Spectre (multiple nemesis notes), Himerus (multiple nemesis notes), Viola (multiple nemeses), Bad Luck Woman Blues (multiple nemeses), Purple Phoenix (MN), Virahotkantita (MN), The Sailor's Den (MN) Have not tried, but have on hand: Cancer (original celestial - I have it but I'm scared to try bc it's my last resort!) Should I try: Villian (will it be too cologney-masculine for my feminine tastes?), Crowley (leather usually plasticky on me, also worried about masculinity of the blend), Famine (tobacco and frankincense usually bad), His Station and Four Aces (leather, masculine), Violet Ray (sandalwood, ylang ylang), Melancholia (sandalwood, ylang ylang, narcissus) Okay, so, is there anything else I am forgetting, and of those in the last category, are any not too masculine, or sandalwood dry, or powdery, or headily floral? And why oh why must wisteria and lilac be so commonly paired? Maybe give Victoria (Stardust) a try?

Rhododendron and bellflower petals swirl through deep, cool, dark aquatic notes. In the bottle: A slightly sharp, green-fresh floral - presumably bellflower - over much fainter, mildly spicy-woody rhododendron. A bit grassy. Definitely cool and aquatic. Wet: Creamy-spicy carnation, green-fresh bellflower, fainter almost tulip-like, smooth rhododendron. A tiny bit soapy, as it typical for me with aquatics. Clean and heavily floral. Pale blue in feel. Some light lilac here too, maybe? Dry: Slow drying oil. It's a little herbal-woodsy, but still mostly florals with a touch of soap. The cool watery feel reminds of the 'lunar oils' note in lunacy blends. Slightly feminine, but a man could possibly pull it off. Later: There briefly emerges a hint of sour-sharp citrus zest, maybe white grapefruit? It reminds me a bit of Szepaponny. It's become more heavily floral; not like gardenia or jasmine, but like wildflowers. As a result, it's deeper. Summary: Bright and creamy carnation provides a bit of a kick, bellflower is heady and wild-sharp, the rhododendron soft, smooth, and herbal-woody. The latter two florals provide depth, while an aquatic note provides a slightly soapy clean feeling and an amazing coolness that's truly blue and watery. Decent throw and lasting power. It's a bit too sharp and heady for me, as well as sort of generically perfumey-floral, but truly evocative.

In the bottle: Juicy, tart berries with a hint of floral. QUITE sweet; stronger on the huckleberry. Wet: Almost bubblegum sweet - very 'pink' and fruity. Quickly starts to go a bit sharp from the neroli. There's also an artificial, plasticky note. It's a little astringent. Overall this reminds me of sickly sweet but also bitter cough syrup. Dry: Very strong throw! The red currant has amped a bit, but the huckleberry dominates. There is still that weird sharp note. It's sort of herbal-bitter but also artificial - very strange. Neroli always goes to soap on me, so maybe it's bitter and sharp instead here? Later: From a distance, it's all deliciously juicy-tart ripe wild berries, very summery in feel. Only within a few inches does that sharp-bitter note appear. And gosh do I love the berries in this, two of my favourite fruit notes ever! Summary: Hmm. The currant has faded again, and the huckleberry is very sweet and herbal-earthy. While that sharp and bitter neroli has softened, it's still a bit annoying. I do prefer it to the dreaded soap, but I think it's nonetheless a dealbreaker - it's just too plasticky. Amazing throw, fades rapidly. I thought this would be so lovely, despite the generally evil neroli, but it was overly sweet and artificial - what a shame!

Sniffed in imp: Orris, ylang ylang, gardenia, sharply herbal lavender, dry sandalwood. Drily woody and intensely, headily floral. Many nemesis notes. This shall not be touching my skin.

In the bottle: I can smell each note except the musk. The cedar is very light, and the lemon smells like verbena to me. The lilac first, then the green tea, are strongest. Wet: Virtually identical. I adore the unique pairing of the smooth, fresh green tea and heady, cool lilac, lightly spiked with the tart lemon. Sweet, golden osmanthus and light woody cedar provide a grounding but delicate backdrop. Wisteria is very light, thankfully. Dry: More lemony, bizarrely. The lilac is still very strong, but it's sort of blending with the heady-powder of the wisteria. Green tea also still potent, and its green smoothness meshes well with the slightly dry but still delicate cedar. Later: Sweeter; the musk has finally emerged. While I can still smell a bit of green tea and lilac, they're faint. Otherwise this is cedar and wisteria, especially the former which has become very hot and dry and woody and STRONG. Summary: Extremely dry, heat-emanating cedar with much lighter lilac, smooth green tea, and powdery wisteria, and extremely faint osmanthus and sweet musk. The cedar overwhelms, sadly. Decent throw. Off to sink now. I SO wish the lab would stop pairing lilac with notes that hate my skin. Especially wisteria.

Beltane is one of those scents (in all the versions I've tried) that really morphs dramatically on the skin, and so should be tested even if the smell in the bottle/imp doesn't appeal. Sniffed in imp: Strongly resiny, complexly woody, and heavily incensey, with hints of heady florals and herbal greenery. Sharp and a little sweet. Heavy on the myrrh, frankincense, copal and sandalwood. A bit mentholic. Summary: The woods, herbs, and resins in this are surprisingly divine; wonderfully blended, a little smoky, and evocative. Amazing how this morphs on the skin. Still, it is much darker, drier and heavier on incense notes than '06, and so not something I'd wear.

In the bottle: Coconut, amber, iris, muguet, wisteria. Sweet and sickly floral. Wet: The coconut really does smell very green and fresh, but still nutty and smooth - I like it. That white amber is sharp, as is wisteria. I can get a little citrusy lemongrass which cuts through everything, and hints of smooth osmanthus and delicate peony. As usual, no lime. Dry: Dries very quickly, softening. The palmarosa appears, and along with the lemongrass, is balancing the sweet coconut. Peony and osmanthus amp, thankfully, and I think I smell some snowdrop, it's a fresh floral note. Hint of powdery wisteria; the heady iris and muguet are there but distant. Later: What a morpher - the only really constant note here is the coconut. Lemongrass has faded, muguet and amber have amped, and a woody note, that's sort of citrusy and cedary? It's too dry for my tastes, but the actual scent is pleasant. Osmanthus is distant, but still gorgeous and honeyed. Summary: Sweet-fresh coconut, that dry citrusy woody hinoki, powdery wisteria, some heady iris and muguet, faint peony and a touch of golden, lilting osmanthus. Not nearly as bad as I imagined it would be, but too sweet and heady for me. Great throw, great lasting power. Feminine.

In the bottle: Very softly floral and slightly spicy. Mildly sweet. Wet: Sweeter. Peppery, like white pepper. I do also smell the carnation, but this has more of a kick than that alone can provide, or so it seems. Dry: The tea to me smells very smooth and lightly sweet, but is extremely faint. Actually, this is going a bit powdery too so there may be amber in this. Geez, and it's going very dry and almost hot too, so I'm suspecting sandalwood as well. Later: Dry, powdery, sharp. Definitely still strong on the carnation, but I'm convinced there is another spice in here because it's just so HOT - ahhh it's clove, which also explains the woodiness. It's more powdery as well, and I have yet to get any rose at all, bizarrely. Summary: Spicy-hot CLOVE over light carnation and sweet powder. Revolting and not REMOTELY maidenly - I was extremely disappointed with this one. I'm obsessed with the concept and clove does not fit in the slightest in my mind. Good throw and malicious longevity. Washed this one off. As well as I could, that is. God I hate clove.

In the bottle: Almost piney-green plants (balsam? green tea?) and juicy purple berries. Wild and fresh and sweet, and strangely, rather soapy. Wet: Much sweeter and heavier on the fruit, but still rather piney. Thankfully, that scary soapy note is light. It's very fresh and woodsy on the whole; foresty. The green note is sort of like yew, or maybe cypress. Evergreen, but not your standard pine. Dry: The berries here are tart yet juicy and also sort of herbal...they remind me of both blackberries and huckleberries, especially the latter, yet are distinct from both. The piney green note is softer now, and this is a wee bit soapier Later: Piney note softer, soapy note stronger, but the delightful berries are staying very true...they really do remind me of huckleberries quite a lot. Sweet but not too sweet. The bulging ripeness but not overripe imagery fits perfectly. I think the soapy note is some floral - tuberose? Moonflower? Those are classic soapy florals for me. Summary: I adore the berries in this. Any lover of more unique dark berry scents that are tart, juicy, mildly sweet and herbal should try this. I also really dig the fresh piney note, and I don't like most evergreen notes, but this is woodsy-herbal and deep yet not sharp. Unfortunately, the soapy note, while it never overwhelms entirely, is a constant unpleasant thorn. Great throw and lasting power. If I didn't have April Fool, I'd consider a bottle of this. It's really unique and I think both sexes could pull it off. It's a very wild and natural scent.

In the bottle: Very pale gold oil. Sweetly fruity and floral, but also fresh, cool and lunar, a touch woody. Ethereal, inviting, feminine. Wet: Osmanthus, hyacinth, lily and peach blossom reign. There is a bit of the too-sweet lotus but it's light for now; the same goes for the heady ylang ylang. Beeswax is, for once, honeyed not caramel! Vanilla is very light and natural. Moonflower keeps this clean but not soapy. Dry: A slower drying oil. Much more heavily and headily floral; gardenia has come out fully, but is not yet overwhelming. I can smell a bit more of the ylang ylang. But osmanthus and moonflower keep these big players in check. Greenly fresh hyacinth lighter. Musk has come out; it's sort of thick and languid and dusky. A hint of woody ti emerges. Later: Gardenia, you big bully! Vanilla, you're not far behind. Lotus is going a bit bubblegum. Moonflower, soapy. Ahh my nemesis notes take over as usual. It's not as bad as it could be; I can still lightly smell some of the notes I love - osmanthus, ti, lily, peach blossom. But this is very heady now and quite sweet, and honestly I don't think I like blue musk. It's a little harsh. Summary: Heady florals and cloying sweetness; the gardenia, vanilla, lotus, sharp musk and soapy moonflower make this unbearable. Amazingly, I never got a hint of sandalwood; it never appeared, and the blend always stayed cool and lunar. Really tremendously strong throw and I imagine good lasting power but I ran to the sink.

In the bottle: Almost colourless pale yellow oil. Fresh, clean, green and citrusy. Green tea, verbena, aloe, and seaspray. Wet: Same, with a bit of mint and a tiny hint of lime. The mint makes this feel sort of cool and sweet - it's spearmint. Very interesting! It, the piney green tea and verbena are now dominating, making this very green indeed. Dry: Slow drying. This reminds me of strongly of Shanghai (especially with that strong green tea note, especially immediately on my skin), though the verbena here is lighter, and there is the strong mint note. The lime was gone within 5 seconds, as usual. Later: The white musk has amped and is a bit sharp and sweet, which along with powerful spearmint makes me think of gum. This stops just short of being soapy with that clean slightly cologney aquatic seaspray. Verbena lighter, but green tea going strong. Aloe is a sturdy backdrop. Summary: The aquatic note in this totally reminds me of the one in Ebisu, and is the only type of oceanic note that doesn't go to complete soap. It's salty-aquatic, spearmint Shanghai with a bit of sweet, bright musk and soft aloe. Decent throw and lasting power. Unisex. It's not enough of a 'me' scent to be bottleworthy, but quite pleasant.