In Ictu Oculi

[doomsday_disco]

Crimson silk, burnished gold, cavernous oud, spilled ink on yellowed vellum, bone dust, myrrh smoke, and scythe iron.

 

 

Juan de Valdés Leal
 

[gentle-twig]

When the lab posted this one, I knew I had to have it even though I couldn’t imagine what all these notes would smell like together. But I love silk notes, ink, and myrrh, and was interested in everything else going on here. 

 

In ictu oculi is definitely unconventional, but has a kind of traditional perfume note pyramid with distinct top middle and base phases. Only, there is a shadow of oud over the whole thing. The oud here is a little bit challenging, with a goaty barnyard quality, but it has gotten a lot smoother even since I received this bottle a week ago. 

 

So how does the hodgepodge of notes in the lab description play out in my pyramid scheme? The top notes are cold and gleaming. I immediately get that tart, shining crimson silk, identical to the “scarlet” silk of Vision, another recent painting of the month. Here it fuses in my perception with the scythe iron and vellum notes. There is something much cooler and sharper at play here than in Vision, and I’m not sure I would even get the fruity red currant qualities of the silk if I didn’t know where to look for them. I had wondered whether the vellum would go paper or leather, and the former seems to be the case. There is that “cucumber” coolness that I often see people talk about in the lab’s paper scents giving everything a faintly green quality. There is also a slight pepperiness and a sharp woody quality, not sure whether the oud or bone dust is what I’m smelling there.

 

The heart note, still under that sheer veil of oud, is ink. So this scent plays out like a metallic flash over matte black darkness for me. I have less to say about it, but I love this stage! The myrrh also gradually comes out, and I am reminded of Galanthus Nivalis, Single Snowdrop, another favorite painting of the month from last year. 

 

In the late stages of wear, this is all myrrh and oud. Before they fade into vagueness, this is a really interesting duo. The myrrh has that fascinating bittersweet character, and the equally ambivalent barnyard/polished wood oud makes this a dynamic pairing for such a simple base. 

 

I never do get that gold, but I also don’t know what I’m looking for. I wonder if it’s contributing to that metallic opening in ways I can’t put my finger on. If so, it certainly isn’t adding any warmth. 

 

Overall, this is a sleek, dark, green-tinged blend with an architectural character. Industrial without being smoky. Completely unlike anything I have smelled from BPAL despite the overlap in notes I’ve mentioned. For me it leans masculine without going into typical cologne territory. Most of the interest is in the first few hours of wear (although these hours can be prolonged significantly if the oil rubs off on clothing), but I don’t care because this screams NIGHT. Despite the baroque inspiration, this is BEGGING to be worn to a rave. I look forward to listening to after dark techno in it year round.

[Biocarbons]

Sweaty, cow patty oud with strong metallic and stone notes and a sour edge from the myrrh. I pick up hints of vellum and ink initially, but it all blurs together as the scent settles on my skin.

 

Now the ink note is getting stronger, and the stable smell is receding and I'm not mad at it, though freshly applied this is not for the faint of heart.

 

The oud slowly morphs into something deep and animalic, reminding me more of the smell of a horse and less of the stable. I am curious to how this smells to others on me.