Utrennyaya

[olympia301]

 

Osmanthus, Damascus rose, violet, delphinium, white mint, palmarosa and white sandalwood.

 

Right out of the imp it's an herby "high floral" wet with hints of a clear minty sort poking through. As it begins to drydown, you realize the mint is entwining with violet to become greenish and cool. This is all padded with the more traditional florals to keep it from becoming too astringent and bring it back to a softer beauty.

 

Finally things dry down to an invigorating progression of serious flowers with violet as the lead and the others lending their prettiest aspects in support.

 

Utrennyaya is a fragrance which becomes more than the sum of its parts. It is a blending which is its own entity. When dry it becomes impossible to distinguish each element (save for the violet) and the scent becomes harmonious new chemistry.

 

Once again, like Vechernyaya, it is an adult and sophisticated fragrance, sure of itself and able to be classified as "cutting edge". I would put this in the perfume collections of connoisseurs as well as young perfume collectors, and I would say this stands up with the Great Houses of scent.

Edited September 14, 2007 by Shollin

[isyche]

Out of the imp, Utrennyaya is sweet and minty, reminiscent of Shattered to me. It feels sparkly and white, very star-like. As it dries it becomes more herbal/floral, but still pale, airy, and minty; I can make out the violet and rose, but I think of white ones, not purple or red ones.

 

This is a very pretty, ethereal scent, like a garden just before dawn when the colors are muted and the air is cool. I like it a lot.

Edited July 14, 2005 by isyche

[evanesce]

When this came out of the bottle, I was so very worried. Cut Grass is all I smelled.

 

I put it on anyway, it's only fair.

 

When I was a little girl, my family and I lived in a swampy little area, and the people there liked to mow their grass first thing in the morning. They would mow the grass and all the other varities of plant life, and tend to their gardens. Roses and mint were both prevalent in the area... and we didn't have a/c, so my windows were always open. I woke up to that smell every morning in the summer, for 4 years. It's a lovely smell... mixed with my mom and dad's morning shower smells making their way into the hall (tone soap and sauve shampoo, and mom's bill blass perfume)... That's what this smells like. Morning in the summer when I was a kid. Cut grass and flowers and clean soap and my mom's perfume. The flowers and the mint are the outside, carried on a breeze, the sandalwood my mom's perfume.

 

It's a perfect scent of a lazy Sunday morning in the spring/summer, or a pick me up on a depressing dreary winter day.

[lorajc]

I'm sure this scent will be perfect for some people, but there is something that goes bitter and sharp on me. I had high hopes for this, as I'm loving Beth's mint blends. Everything is fine until this sharp note begins to dominate on me. I don't usually type reviews for scents I don't like because I always feel bad.

[UltraViolet]

rose, violet, mint, sandalwood

In the bottle

salad with mint in it

The person above hit it spot on with the "airy, pale, bright, crisp" descriptions.

 

On

This is so fresh and nice smelling, but it does still smell like salad.

 

30 minutes

Still clean, grassy, fresh, herbal and only lightly minty.

 

Throw:

a bit more than average

 

Scent category:

herbal

 

Summary

It's a lovely clean grass-like scent. Lightly minty, not like in some blends.

 

Purchase again?

No, but only because if I had to choose, I prefer "The Apothecary" for that lovely fresh grass, herbally, clean scent.

 

1-5 rating (5 being best)

3.5

[Astarte]

I chose this oil at random for being the clearest out of my imp pack, as I couldnt remember which oil was which.

 

Straight in the bottle it does smell like lamb mint, a scent which I abhor normally, so it was with some trepidation I tried it.

 

On, there was a strange duality with the sweet(ish) mint and violet. To me it was a minty version of Onerei for a while.

 

After everything has settled down, the mint is very much in the background and I'm left with a gentle white flower scent, which is very pleasant. A new addition to the BPAL line.

[shelldoo]

in the bottle:dried grass and minty freshness

 

wet: same sun dried frasses and fresh mint right from the herb garden, possibly meadow tea

 

dry: warm grasses (duh i could just copy and paste) they settle to the back ground, it is more minty then grassy now w/ the barest breath of violet. i wouldn't really classify this as a "floral" it is more herbal, and clean then "floral" on me this is like a cross between the lion and my ct2 blend, very light, summery, and beautiful, i believe this is my favorite of the zoryas

[SoapyRN]

My name is Dawnya, so this is as close to a namesake that I will get, unless Beth releases Rebecca....anyway, on to the oil.

 

Wet in the imp, I get a sparkly mint and palmarosa. I once used palmarosa in a soap that it was a huge hit with my friends. Sweet smelling really.

 

Wet in me, faintly mint, more of that palmarosa, it is the grass mentioned above.

 

Light, a nice different kind of oil. I like it.

[sarada]

This came across very oddly in the imp....slightly medicinal? Astringent? It would seem pure mint at first but then I'd take it away from my nose and get a strong whiff of palmarosa. Then it would just smell like a light floral of no particular description. Then I'd smell mint again.

 

Ultimately I think that the mint is what comes out the strongest in this, and it's quite nice when I put it on and that sort of witch hazel, astringent scent that I was getting before fades away and is replaced by palmarosa.

 

I haven't seen a lot of palmarosa blends, and it's a scent that I really like sometimes. Airs brand incense used to have a palmarosa scent that I was addicted to -- I'll always associate it with the time that I spent in California, when I burned it constantly at night. So I really like the way it comes out in this blend, and there's just enough mint to keep the blend from getting too floral.

 

It doesn't last very long and I can't really see wearing it a whole lot since I have soooo many imps that I'm not likely to wear something like this more than once or twice so I probably won't hang onto it. But I would have definitely bought a bottle of this 10 years ago in my big palmarosa phase!

[tesao]

i allowed myself to be swayed by the text on the three stars....so although i know that violets do not like me, i got an imp of this to try, just so that i could sniff all three of them.

 

i have no earthly idea what osmanthus or palmarosa smell like, so bear that in mind whilst reading this review.

 

in the imp: ever so slightly floral -- fresh, clean, early morning.

 

on my wrist, wet: ack. medicinal, astringent, sharp green herbs or grass. whatever it is, i do NOT like it.

 

on my wrist, dry: the previously mentioned sharp grassy notes are gone (thank the gods). in their place, unfortunately, there is SCREAMING violet. not a good thing. there are still hints of the clean early morning dew smell, which is lovely. too bad about the violets.

 

drydown: this is such a well blended scent, except for the (boo) violet. but that is undoubtedly due to the interaction with my body chemistry. it has admitedly calmed down, but is still way too forward for my taste.

 

eta: never a hint of mint, rose or sandalwood on me, more's the pity.

Edited July 31, 2005 by tesao

[Barb25]

I had to try this scent quickly as I broke the imp somehow! *sob*

 

Luckily, I definately got enough on me to try.

 

Wow, floral enough for ya? This is extremely floral to begin with. Yuck. The rose and violet are kicking my nose all over the place.

 

After a bit, it becomes a bit more of a green scent, thank goodness. Okay, so it's turned out not bad, but still not anywhere near close to bottle-worthy.

[Savannah]

Wet: Florals. Soapy florals. Jasmine or rose? *checks* Ah-- rose. Yep, rose still hates me.

 

Drydown: Violet. And sandalwood. Oh, this feels like dawn, a spring dawn in a dewy rose garden. The cool violet, cool white florals, and the tinest hint of cool mint, and the sandalwood warming it just a touch like the first rays of the rising sun. The rose is just killing me. If it would go away, this would be so beautiful.

 

A delicious, evocative scent, so fitting for its name. Unfortunately, I can't get over the rose enough to fork over for a bottle, but highly recommended.

Edited August 1, 2005 by Savannah

[Ina Garten Davita]

First Impression: Mint.

 

Second Impression: Mint and violet is not a good combination for me. I had to order all three of the Zorya just because, but I knew this one wouldn't work for me. And it doesn't.

 

Final Analysis: Swap pile, stat.

[Celogrl]

This is beautiful! I am an unabashedly violet loving soul, and I get it here. Not a heady violet, more subdued. The palmarosa and delphinium come through, but no mint! I love the subtlety of this one. Utrennyaya is linear on me from wet to drydown. It just becomes a little softer and mellower. I think it is a worthy addition to the lineup of choices.

[grrrlennyl]

at first: this smells dark, but minty. very interesting. the sandalwood gives it a nice, smooth texture.

on: slightly weird, but nice. lots of mint.

half an hour later: airy. dark, but with the coolness of peppermint.

1 hour later: pretty and smooth. the mint is still there, but in the background.

2 hours later: softer. still wonderfully floral, but the mint is mostly gone.

overall: this is really beautiful. i love how dark it is.

[coulrophobe]

I've felt like I'm in bizarro-land lately, because all the blends containing rose that I've tried lately have worked on me! Who knew?

 

In the imp - whoa, minty! I like mint. This smells like a nice crisp, cool blend.

 

Wet - for a few minutes, I get an almost lotusy note as the mint and florals start to balance out.

 

Drydown - the roses come out a little more than I'd like, but they're still not screaming or artificial, like they so often are with my chemistry. I think the violet and the other florals are offering some balance here.

 

This is a very fresh, springy girlish scent that captures the concept quite well. It conjures up images of roses and grass covered with dew, and the lightening of the sky before dawn. A youthful and optimistic scent.

[walkingundine]

Bear in mind that I don't know my florals, and overall I'm working with a sub-par sense of smell.

 

 

In the imp: What I get from this is bright. Bright, heavy, smooth, white-gold, satiny LILIES. Nice ones, very mellow, with something oddly clear- sort of crystalline- behind them. I do not discern any mint. This makes me sad.

 

 

When wet: Lilies, but oddly bruised. It's what happens when you hand a bouquet to a little kid who mashes the petals. I expected this stage to be really cloying, but it wasn't overwhelming at all. Very rich and a little sweet, but nowhere near what I expected.

 

 

Drydown: Here we experience a shift from white-gold satin to dark brown velvet. It's almost chocolatey- it has a sort of mellow note that reminds me of Intrigue. That might be the palm, or palmarosa, or whatever that thingy is. It's a warm, fuzzy smell. Not quite the 'mmmmnostalgia' of Jack, but more like the 'It's Wednesday in late April and I've called out from work just so I can say in bed with my fuzzy pillow and eat chocolates so NYAH'.

 

In sum: I don't think this is necessarily a big-bottle candidate for me, but I definitely enjoy it enough to pick up another imp when this one runs out.

[Little Bird]

Utrennyaya is mostly mint and violet to me. The mint is the strongest throughout the hours that I wore this blend. Very cool and pepperminty. The violets are cool and sweet. It's like violets dipped in peppermint icing.

 

Overall this is a very chilly blend on me. It's dark and surprisingly pretty. I don't really like mint or violet... but I'm enjoying Utrennyaya. This will never be a full bottle purchase as I never really wear minty perfumes, but I'll hold onto my imp and toy around with it on days that I'm feeling adventurous.

[sookster]

minty violets!! who'd have thunk?

really spectacular scent...another one of Beth's fantastic blends that

is so amazingly different

 

after drydown the mint softens up to almost nil with my chemistry and

i get violets and some tea or cucumberish/lettuce fragrance

 

just astounding how bpal scents morph and change with time ... lovely

[LiberAmoris]

Wow, rose + violet + mint. It's an unusual combination. Utrennyaya reminds me a little bit of Queen Gertrude. Plus mint and lots of rose.

 

Violets get very strong and sweet very quickly on my skin, so I'm not sure I'll be keeping this one. The drydown was lovely but I'm not sure I can wait two hours until the violet settles down on my skin.

 

There is something very starry about this though, very true to the morning star. The mint makes it a very dewy and 'fresh' star, like waking up early when it's still dark out and the air outside is cool and moist.

[slugbait]

This smells like bitter black tea with a smidgen of mint. On my skin it loses the mint and smells like used tea bags. It doesn't last very long, but while it does it is pretty strong. Completely dry it is barely noticible. It is watered down tea and the florals are non-exsistant. Bummer. Into the swap pile

[turbojenn]

I could not wait to try the Zoryas, as I love the mythological trio and their individual aspects. This one is a very complex lovely, daytime scent on me. Light, minty at the start. Warming up on my skin, the violet slithers out, but very slowly, with a woody twist of the sandalwood appearing later.

 

verdict: I like it, but not likely to wear it often...I like a scent with a little more weight.

[urraca]

The mint comes through first for me but it is a mint I am unfamiliar with --- very different from a spearmint or peppermint, a little duller. The scent morphs into various different herbal, grassy, and almost milky phases (I am reminded of White Rabbit) before settling down after about an hour into something quite different; a lovely sweet floral. It is really a perfect floral in which none of the notes stand out as all conspire to become something more than their individual parts. There is nothing harsh, sharp, or soapy about any of this. It smells to me like the best of spring. It lasts for several hours and has good throw. I'm sold.

[PurringPulsar]

Utrennyaya

 

In the imp: mint tea! A fresh liquid mint with florals-and bizarrely, I smell camomile here?

Wet on skin: here come the rose and violet! I can still smell the mint, but the flowers are coming out now.

Dry on skin: mmm, this is lovely! A fresh, light floral scent with a hint of herbs and sandalwood- a minty sparkle, the cool powder of violet, and a crisp rose scent with a slight greenness. This is a very refreshing and soft scent that brings to mind springtime and mornings where the grass and flowers are covered in dewdrops-it's a moist and shimmering scent.

After a while: it now reminds me of a happier, lighter Ephemera, without the dusty and old fashioned aspect that scent had-this one is a lot more youthful. This is a gorgeous light herbal-floral scent with a lovely violet note and rose, with other green herbal and floral scents underneath. This scent gently shimmers like the light of early morning through soft mists.

Verdict: this is probably my favourite of the Zoryas. This is Ephemera's younger, cheerier sister. A fresh, moist, soft blend of gentle florals and green herbs, prominently violet and rose with mint and sandalwood. This really befits the image of the morning star-this scent evokes dewy mornings, cool and fresh with the scent of spring and a sense of youth and the optimistic beginning of a new day. I love this and may get a bottle for springtime.

[Eros]

In the imp and first applied, strong on the mint. It quickly settles down & becomes a beautiful, light minty tea followed by light, but not *too* light(whatever that means, lol) florals.

The mint becomes more of a fresh cut spearmint & blends beautifully w/the other notes, whereas at first...wasn't too sure about this one. Eventually the mint all but disappears, which seems to happen w/my chemistry, so far, with all the mint blends I've tried. I'm left with a beautiful, fresh green herbal garden, not really floral(no rose even!).

As an added bonus, the headache I'd had all day disappeared...like, immediately after putting this on.

 

So while I might not get a bottle of this one, I think I'll keep the imp.