Phyllocrania Paradoxa v1

[saralaughs]

In other words, the Ghost Mantis.

 

First application, I detect balsam of some kind and maybe some amber or sandalwood. Whatever else is in here, it's creating a vanilla-like affect that is beautiful. There is a depth after drydown that reminds me of resins of some sort. It reminds me of U, Mutter a bit with the balsam/vanilla affect going on but it a bit deeper on my skin. And then it fades.

 

Gorgeous but fleeting.

[Invidiana]

Nevermind the creepy critter it was named for, this is a positively droolworthy vanilla-tonka musk. Wet I get vanilla straight off. This vanilla is reminiscent of the Antique Lace/XCDL13 vanillas except not with any linen notes like the former and not as boozy as the latter. I'm thinking it might even be that almost foody type of vanilla orchid that I love in Opuhi. As it dries down I get that distinct warmer and muskier vanillic note of tonka bean that emerges and takes the forefront. I'm guessing the tonka is an interpretation of the warm hazel color of these insects. The musk I recognize as that amazing BPAL white musk, which gives it a certian fresh and airy quality that is also soft and sensual. There is nothing soapy here even though it has a certain cleanness about it. A gorgeous scent for a very odd-looking bug!

Edited March 25, 2011 by Shollin
Merged with existing review topic

[cfrancesca]

I mostly get creamy vanilla and some sassafras from this one. As it dries, I also start to get a light, creamy citrus scent (slightly Jingo-Kogo-like but a bit tarter) in the beginning, but it slowly fades off with time. The vanilla is strong but well-blended and the sassafras is fizzy and pleasant on my skin (not harsh or medicinal). It settles into a vanilla cream soda scent on me. This reminds me of Anti-Saloon League, but with less cream and more vanilla, and whereas ASL ends up becoming kind of masculine on me, this is slightly more feminine, I feel. It eventually develops a slight plastic tinge, but it behaves for the most part.

[Little Bird]

This is very similar to The Anti-Saloon League. It's like sassafras/root beer with baby powder, and the drydown is heavier on the baby powder, with a dry woods type of note in the background. Way too powdery for me...

[zankoku_zen]

I get soft, creamy vanilla, a hint of sassafras/rootberr and a good dollop of powderiness on the drydown.

 

For fans of Antique Lace, I'd highly recommend trying this.

[Gold Dust Kitten]

Creamy herbal vanilla...and sassafras that made me think of Snake Oil. It smells nothing like Snake Oil, but there is something in this oil that is tricking my nose to think there is a common note. The vanilla is similar to the one in Gypsy but with sassafras not cardomom.

 

Most random review ever! I really love this scent.

 

ETA: I'm comparing this to The Anti-Saloon League now, since others have commented on the similarities. PPv1 is like a lighter, less cologne-y version of ASL.

Edited May 19, 2011 by mxtine

[Penance]

Origin:

 

5mL from Scrappy.

 

Preconceived notions:

 

I had to try one when I saw it being described as vanilla musk. Something about that combination is really appealing to me, plus I love weird bugs.

 

I'm not sure about the other notes being mentioned. Sassafras is generally okay and amber and sandalwood are good, but balsam is hit or miss. And I hate powdery scents. But I have a feeling this was going to work for some reason, so I splurged on a bottle unsniffed. Hopefully it was the right decision.

 

First sniff:

 

Vanilla musk and sassafras with something almost herbal. That could just be the sassafras doing strange things in combination with everything else, though. I don't get any balsam from this at all.

 

Wet on skin:

 

Same as in the bottle. It's not bad, but it's not great, either.

 

Dry down:

 

Now I like this. I can see why people are calling this powdery, because it leaning in that direction, but for me it's more creamy than powdery. I haven't tried The Anti-Saloon League to compare this to, but I can see the resemblance based on the review I've read of ASL.

 

Dried, Phyllocrania Paradoxa v1 is creamy, non-foody vanilla, slightly powdery musk (not a dark musk and definitely not red...I'm leaning more towards either skin or white, probably skin musk), a very slight hint of sassafras and a tiny bit of something herbal (that, again, could just be the sassafras).

 

In some ways, it's a cousin to Celeste, but with sassafras instead of saffron and without the sugariness.

 

The bottom line:

 

This is lovely. It's feminine and soft and gentle and doesn't smell at all like I would think something named after the ghost mantis would smell like (I'm not sure what it would smell like in my mind, but I think it would be something more woodsy and brown, although I can see this being a "ghost" sort of scent). From what I've heard, the other versions of Phyllocrania are very different than this, so maybe I'm not the only one who thinks that way.

[Dark Alice]

First off...I hate bugs. In any form or shape...I freak when lady bugs land on me...but that's another story all together.

 

But this is the nicest smelling bug I have ever had the opportunity to try. It's herbal with the barest hints of sweetness which I suspect is vanilla musk and stays true to form from wet to the drydown. Lightly herbal greenish with vanilla musk. Glad I got to try it...but thankfully it is not for me.

[PurringPulsar]

Phyllocrania Paradoxa v1

 

In the imp: yes, it is like Anti Saloon League. Creamy vanilla, sassafras and something musky.

Wet on skin: ooh, this is nice. It’s like ASL, but it’s a tiny bit more cologne-y. Is that petitgrain?

Dry on skin: interesting. I smell something a bit leathery like U, but the leather is sharper, lacking that grass and old books scent from U. The dominant scent I get here is a sharp, piercing men’s perfume, with a tangy cologne note of petitgrain or neroli. Underneath that I smell the slick black musk that’s in Reptoid Dominion and Titus Andronicus. There may be a bit of resin, probably copal, which to me often smells like high-end perfume. The ASL-style creamy vanilla is also there, but it’s pushed to the back of the scent by the strong and rather masculine perfumey scent.

After a while: after a while the strong men’s musk cologne quietens a tiny bit and the vanilla-tonka-root beer scent becomes stronger, and it’s really gorgeous. But there’s something about this scent that gives me a headache, and I don’t get that from ASL. I think that petitgrain/black musk/leather perfumey scent is the culprit. But this sharp scent does fade slowly and the drydown is all about the vanilla cream musk, very much like the ice cream float scent I get in ASL. I’d say this one had a bit of wood to it as well, maybe teak?

Verdict: I’m not sure about this. The first two or three hours of wear give me a headache and it smells too much like one of those black musk based manly scents, maybe with hints of deep dark wood, leather, a resin note, maybe even tobacco or cognac, with a piercing topnote of cologne. But underneath is a sublime vanilla musk with hints of cream, pale warm wood, tonka and subtle sassafras, and this becomes the dominant note after a few hours. I love that scent, it’s soft, cosy, sweet but not cloying or gourmand, and also sophisticated. But I’m not sure about the headache-y stage I have to endure before I get to that beautiful drydown. I’ll stick to Anti Saloon League, which smells similar to me.

Is it a keeper? Maybe I’ll keep my tester, but I won’t need a bottle.

If you like this, try: Anti Saloon League, Antikythera Mechanism, Stimulating Sassafras Strengthener, Morocco, Tombstone, Haloes, Fern Frost, U, Liz

[sunshinedaisybliss]

Hmm.. interesting.. this one was a little sharp and had a slight plastic/alcohol smell to it when I first put it on (as did Celeste and the Elf v4 proto, which makes me think the vanilla in PP is of the same variety as those two).. but thankfully that mostly went away after about 15 minutes (it never really went away, with Celeste and Elf v4) - every now and then I notice it's still kinda hanging around, but it's not bad enough to be annoying.

 

Once fully dried, what I have is a softly sweet vanilla with a hint of woods and greenery. Just a hint though - the overall tone is sweet, not woodsy. There does seem to be something slightly fizzy in here - I see other reviewers have mentioned sassafras and maybe that is it, although usually sassafras is more obvious on my skin so perhaps there's just a wee bit in PP. And I'm going with either white musk or skin musk, and maybe a very slight touch of amber? I agree that there's probably some tonka in here. It ends up smelling a bit like a sweetened version of baby powder, but without the powder - which I realise doesn't make sense.. what I mean is; the smell of baby powder, without the powdery bit.

 

I'm not really getting the 'creamy' tones that others have mentioned - to me, this is pretty much a straight up soft/sweet vanilla musk. It's nice, and but since I already have a couple of favourite vanilla-based BPALs, this one just isn't ranking up there in the top shelf category for me.

[midnight_aeval]

I thought for sure I reviewed this one as it was one of the hits of the trunk show for me! Funny enough, I asked for v1, but my picker gave me v3 and I didn't notice until I got home! Luckily they were offering the protos at the following Will Call so I was able to exchange them out for the right version The lab is so great

 

Anyways, this is what I was wanting Anti-Saloon League to smell like! If I had to guess, I would say there is sassafras (also reminiscent of Stimulating Sassafras Strengthener) and madagascar vanilla because it does have that great vanilla vibe that I get from Celeste and Elf v4. I would say there is no cream here because cream notes go rank with my skin chemistry and this one just works lovely.

 

It does invoke the imagery of cream though - I picture an Italian Cream Soda made with sarsaparilla when I wear this

[violetblue]

I echo sunshinedaisybliss' review word for word. First applied it's super strong, dry down is vanilla musk with a tinge of sweetness and very powdery!

[childoftime]

When I first sniffed from the bottle, I was sure this was related to XCDL13 (sharp in the bottle) and Elf v4 (hello creamy vanilla), and once it hit skin, any doubt was removed. This is very reminiscent of Elf v4, but with a hint of something almost-masculine-but-not-really that reminds me of Dorian. I didn't get sassafrass, but tonka seems likely, and I agree that there's a very soft musk floating just at the edges. This didn't end up powdery at all on me, or on Ow1goddess, so ymmv on the powdery issue.

 

Whatever it is that's reminding me of Dorian is keeping this from being too sweet or girly (thankfully) without making it really masculine. I think that this would be dangerously good on a man, while it's certainly lovely on Ow1goddess and I.

 

Emoticon verdict:

Edited May 29, 2011 by ChildofTime

[astarinel]

This is definitely the same vanilla from Celeste, a very rich vanilla, with a light/white musk.

 

When it goes on wet, it's a little weird -- kind of sharp and woody-bitter, but as it dries that fades away and the vanilla takes center stage. It actually doesn't remind me all that much of The Anti-Saloon League, which I prefer -- the vanilla in that one is a little more creamy/foody, and I like the sassafras note there. There is something else in this one, other than vanilla musk, vaguely woody-herbal, but as a vanilla-amper I get mostly vanilla out of this one.

 

If you like the vanilla note in Celeste, though, this one is really for you! It's that same sort of musky-rich but not sweet-foody vanilla.

[EmpressPixie]

Softly floral vanilla musk.

 

I don't get the ASL comparisons at all. Wet, I get a rich, creamy, floral and ever so slightly spicy vanilla. Dry, I get a soft, floral vanilla with a very, very light musk. I'm thinking there is a very, very soft sandalwood maybe because amber does not work on my skin. And a softer musk, but not white musk because white musk has never once managed to smell remotely attractive on me.

 

Whatever this is, it is stunningly gorgeous. It was a bit sharp in the bottle (I actually hesitated to try it for several week because of this), but just breathtaking on the skin.

[ellebelle]

I can't believe no one has said this - this has the same musky note that I adore from The Girl. I'm smelling them side by side, and on me that sharp note that everyone is referring to a dead ringer for the same sharp wet note in The Girl - which I ADORE. The dry down is much more vanilla than The Girl though. But other that that, not much more to add - pretty vanilla musky amber scent. Not foody at all to me (Celeste is foody IMO; a woman in the bathroom at work told me a smelled like cookies once when I was wearing it).

Edited June 16, 2011 by Ellebelle

[Ondine]

My unsophisticated sniffer says "This is The Anti-Saloon League!" They're pretty much exact on my skin.

[angelamaria]

In bottle: somewhat masculine-foody, quite creamy. I think I detect balsam, and it seems what others are getting as well. It's slightly sweet, slightly tart. Quite sexy, too! Not overly foody.

 

Wet on skin: this is clean, still leaning towards masculine. It's kind of makes me think of a non-sweet honey, actually! The vanilla note is clearer to me now. On my skin, it's not as sexy as in the bottle, but it's still quite pleasing.

 

Dry: mostly the same as the wet on skin experience--slightly foody masculine scent. There is a bit more balsam over time, and less creamy, but I can still say it's creamy easily. It's a clean scent, but slowly turning plasticky for me. Later on, I can get the vanilla relatively clearly but one of the notes has gone plasticky--I can't really be sure which, it could be the balsam but it could easily be a different note that is overshadowing the balsam.

 

Verdict: damn, I wish I knew what note was turning plasticky! I've come across a few plasticky blends, but aside from strawberry (which I don't detect here), I don't know what else gives me this plasticky note. Maybe some citruses, I'm not sure. Anyway, sadly not for me, but the initial creamy state is fabulous.

[invisible iris]

A tester from Mellifluous.

 

In the vial: Like a white musk cologne. Some kind of wood (oak or teak? or maybe dried leaves), and a chemically note, like white musk or white metal and leather (reminds me a little of Palladin, actually).

 

On skin: Cologney wood and leather, but again with a light aura of chemically white musk. As it dries more of a sweet vanilla/tonka comes out, and the hint of leather stays. The wood mellows or even disappears as this dries, or blends with the leather. After some time the leather mellows significantly too, and blends in with the light musk, which is still chemically and astringent.

 

Dry: I get notes of tonka and maybe tobacco or a hint of sarsparilla (something brownly herbal and softly creamy, and something that makes it chewy, like almond milk?), and then either dried leaves or teak, a small amount of leather, I think there's oakmoss, and white musk. I read it as a masculine white musk blend (with a tonka/oakmoss fougere but no lavender). The longer it’s dry, the more the harsher notes (dried leaves/teak, leather, white musk) mellow down and the sweet brown creamy chewyness of the tonka becomes dominant.

 

Verdict: I haven't tested ASL, Celeste, or Elf v4, so I can't speak to those comparisons. At first I was going to say that Phyllocrania Paradoxa v1 is like a chewy brown Paladin, but as it dries It becomes more like The Organ Grinder with tonka and white musk. So, like a cross between Palladin and The Organ Grinder. It’s nice in the late dry stage. I wouldn’t seek it out, because I find the white musk (esp. when combined with the hypothetical dried leaves or leather note) to cause a chemically irritation in the back of my throat (I have a similar problem with both Palladin and 51). I was glad to have a chance to try it though.

[claudia6913]

This scent is definitely reminiscent of the "lace" line of scents. It has that soft vanilla tone to it - but in addition, it's fuzzy and brown. Definitely tonka fuzz. Not fizzy though, which tonka can do on me sometimes. There's a wood in there too, but I can't tell which one - it's not a pine though, as every pine note BPAL has amps to the nth degree on me, and this is not amping. It's blended very well. Morphs a bit as it sits. It moves away from the "lace" association and moves more into the fuzzy/woody/hunter type zone.

[ami226]

Should be interesting!

 

On the skin: Kinda light on me, but I do detect a slightly woodsy vanilla. Reminds me of the Antikythera Mechanism. A lot! It's really nice and pretty, but it's not the scent for me.

[Alethia]

Thoughts before testing: I absolutely adore BPAL's vanilla blends, so testing this was a no brainer!

 

Wet: The vanilla is sweet but also strangely astringent? It stung my nose when I sniffed it.

 

Dry down: Beautiful vanilla-musk scent. This smells kind of like Antique Lace with an extra shot of something. Maybe amber? I see sassafrass listed in other reviews, but I don't have a lot of experience with it. It could be. Sweet but definitely not foody.

 

Dry: This takes an extreme turn into powder territory after a few hours. It's still a soft vanilla musk, but it's not as full-bodied. It definitely feels faded to me at this point.

 

Final thoughts: The dry down was stunning, but the wet and dry phases make this a fail for me.

 

Verdict: Not for me.

[LizziesLuck]

The moment I opened the bottle I was smacked in the face by pure beauty. Thankfully my skin hasn't ruined it.

 

Ever review a scent and want to tell people it's terrible so you can hoard it all yourself? Kind of having one of those moments. It's amazing. But I swear, you don't want any....

 

This is a gorgeous musk. Not sure if it's vanilla musk or white musk and vanilla sugar...some combo of musk/vanilla/sugar is happening here, and it's AMAZING. It smells a lot like Morocco v2 to me, without the lavender. Which (though I adore Morocco v2) I have often wished for! And my wish came true. Gorgeous. I want to roll around in it. This just made the top 10ish list. But you don't want any, I promise.

[milo]

From the lovely Lizzie Woods and Vanilla. This is very similar to Haloes on me, which makes me a happy camper. This one may have a bit more sweetness and vanilla, with a touch of musk. I really like this, and will definitely use the rest up.

[celestia]

♔ Phyllocrania Paradoxa v1

 

I've aged this for almost a year in the hopes that the undesirable notes I'm getting will have mellowed out by now.

 

In the Bottle: Powdery white vanilla cologne-like musk, accompanied by a slight tang that reminds me of sweetened rust, or metal.

 

Wet: The vanilla note reminds me of the powdery vanilla cream musk in a lot of vanilla orchid scents – not quite as rich and full bodied or sweet as Elf v4, XCDL13, Antique Lace, or Celeste- but that could be the sassafras others have mentioned. I definitely do not like the extra, almost metallic-like tang I’m getting. And although I don’t really smell root beer or sarsaparilla…or anise, I’m willing to bet it’s one of these notes turning metallic on me… If I were to describe it, it smells a like a slightly sweatier sugared cola flavour.

 

Drydown: The vanilla itself is lovely, wearable, though lacking in what the other aforementioned vanillic scents have had. I would class it as a white vanilla rather than a golden kind of vanilla, similar perhaps to Pediophobia or the lacy white vanilla in Mrs. Valentine. It’s a white vanilla that turns powdery, musky and sandalwood-y, perhaps even less sweet. If only this sassafrassy anisey tang would disa[ear. My chemistry is definitely helping me ruin this otherwise beautiful, powdery sweet, white vanilla, sadface... coupled with the fact there is something my olfactory senses are picking up that I just find disturbingly off-putting. Oh well, that's what happens when you're really picking with vanillas T-T

 

TL;DR: Musky white, powdery vanilla cream with tangy cola rust

Edited May 29, 2017 by celestia