All Ruinous Disorders

[theseagrows]

These late eclipses in the sun and moon portend no good to us. Though the wisdom of nature can reason it thus and thus, yet nature finds itself scourged by the sequent effects. Love cools, friendship falls off, brothers divide, in cities mutinies, in countries discord, in palaces treason, and the bond cracked twixt son and father. This villain of mine comes under the predictiontheres son against father. The king falls from bias of naturetheres father against child. We have seen the best of our time. Machinations, hollowness, treachery, and all ruinous disorders follow us disquietly to our graves. Find out this villain, Edmund. It shall lose thee nothing. Do it carefully.And the noble and true-hearted Kent banished, his offense honesty! Tis strange, strange.

William Shakespeare, King Lear

Amber, bergamot, and honeyed saffron blackened by smoked oudh, patchouli, ti leaf, scorched thistle, leather, and yew.

freshly applied, i'm getting something leafy and green...perhaps the ti leaf? it seems to be combined with honey, and maybe some bergamot, with something smoky. after a few minutes, the scent warms up with some amber and a little patchouli. the honeyed saffron is gorgeous in this. i don't seem to get any leather in this. it ends up mostly amber and honeyed saffron with hints of greenery during the drydown. Edited September 18, 2017 by theseagrows

[omphaloskeptic]

All Ruinous Disorders (Great American Eclipse/LE ’17)
preconceived notions: oudh roulette (it can be AWFUL on me at times) but smoked that’s the biggest risk out of these notes for me, thought the ti leaf & scorched thistle could potentially go weird on my fickle skin. the other notes sounded like they had potential though, so i went w/ a decant. it’s also TTOTM so my chemistry isn’t entirely normal right now...

wet: cool, green herbaciousness w/ a slight edge from the bergamot… something in here is giving me a mild aftershave vibe, & the honeyed aspect of the saffron is definitely there. i don’t get anything smokey or scorched yet

5mins: aha, THERE are the smokey notes! & the leather, too… i’m relieved to report the oudh isn’t the dreaded funky sort, though i think it is lending some grounding to the earthy-despite-honeying saffron. this smells less & less like aftershave, & the green notes are burning off too so it must have been one of those causing that association.

drydown: half an hour into wear this is slightly perfumey bergamot grounded by woods & leather… nice enough that i might try it on the hubby, but a little too green & aftershave-y for my tastes so if he’s not into it this will probably get sent along to a new home.

[strick9]

In the bottle: There's a lot of patchouli going on in the bottle at first, but its tempered by super green bergamot and ti leaf. slight bit of leather, and a touch of resinous base from the oudh. its lovely, really!

 

wet: super herby with not as much patchouli. something soapy is going on and i dont know if i hate it, but i definitely don't love it right now. There's a roundness/creamyness here that i hope develops and overcomes the soapy aspect. I'm not getting anything particularly smoked about this.

 

dry: There's the smoke! It kind-of smells like pu'erh tea, smokey and kind-of fermented a bit. the patchouli is there but super in the background. The sharp soapy smell has relaxed quite a bit, and it's being tempered by a great resinous base, some wood and the saffron. I really, really enjoy this and i think it will make a lovely spring/summer fragrance. It's raining in Chicago right now, and i feel like the scent is totally appropriate for the weather despite not being aquatic at all.

[zankoku_zen]

Oudh, amber, bergamot and a whiff of honey, saffron, and yew. This one is a complex dark oudh blend. It flitters between a dark, ombre sort of perfume and just straight up smokey darkness. Good throw and wear length.

[torikitty]

I'm bad at identifying this particular notes. I can get the bergamot and a hint of saffron. I think the oude and amber end up with a smoky leather quality while it's still wet. Herbs, smoky musk, and leather. Like a hot dude in a leather jacket, sipping on some herbal tea during a cold, damp evening in the backyard with some chimeneas going in the background a few houses away. I really like the way this smells, just not on me. Trying it on the husband.

[Lucchesa]

All Ruinous Disorders has had a year to age now, and when I first apply it to my skin, I get Coca Cola.  All those gorgeous complex notes, and my skin gives me coke.  It mellows into something richer, dark and sweet, in which I have trouble picking out any of the individual notes.  I'm not getting the strongly green scent other reviews mention, which may be my skin and may be the aging process.  It's totally unisex, more comforting than sex bomb, and I get a little throw with it which I don't often get from my chemistry.  Don't be put off by the "smoked" or "blackened" descriptions; this isn't a vetiver blast.  It's cola.  But better.