Socrates

[zankoku_zen]

Inspired by anointing oils used in the philosopher’s time after partaking in public baths: orris root, ambergris accord, frankincense, olive blossom, black fig, and marjoram.

[zankoku_zen]

Olive blossom, marjoram, frankincense and a touch of ambergris and fig. This really though is an herby olive blossom/frankincense blend. Sort of regal, resinous, and unexpected twists. Medium throw and wear length.

[bheansidhe]

This smells like the highest of high-end, bespoke bath unguents, sold only by a discreet proprietor in Mayfair who keeps a hand-written list of clientele and posts no shop hours. If you even know how to find the storefront (the 17th-century one, not the modern one), it's because your grandfather brought you along when he stocked up on his favorite shaving cream and pomade.

 

It is not herbal; it is not soapy; it is not faintly resinous; it is all of those notes, swaddled in fig as dark as the fumed oak table in your grandfather's study, flecked with olive blossoms that breathe notes of the fruity oil instead of the flower. When someone smells this blend on you, they will know (without a word being spoken) that University of Oxford has at least one reading room and an endowed philosophy chair named for your direct ancestor, and also, that you are luxuriantly clean, well-read, and a touch indolent.

 

Alas, the blend is a push-pull between two notes that never love me - orris and ambergris - against a quartet of notes that normally play very well on my skin. It loses the high-end-shading-to-masculine feel and edges into my grandmother's dusting powder. Still damn expensive dusting powder, mind, but not anything I can wear.

 

[Biocarbons]

I love olive blossom scent when it's a bit more like the fruit and high quality creamy olive oil and have for some time been looking for an olive oil and ambergris perfume blend. This has that.

 

Unfortunately, something in this produces a strong lemony note (the majoram?) and causes the whole thing to smell like very **expensive** vegan lemon pledge on me, which is very disappointing.

 

As it dries down, the lemon note burns off and the olive oil ambergris mix is quite lovely.

Edited January 27, 2020 by Biocarbons

[puellacaerulea]

In my decant, I get mostly olive blossom, black fig, and frankincense -- heavy, resinous, and more traditionally masculine, but the orris root is also noticeably softening the whole blend. My skin really amps the orris and ambergris, enough that they overtake the heavy/resinous notes almost entirely. They creep back in well after drydown, but for the most part, this is powdery, soft orris and ambergris with a touch of olive blossom. Fortunately, I really like orris and ambergris.

[trinitysite]

So this goes on very herbal and masculine, and the tones down to warm frankincense. There seems to be some kind of amber note, which is either the olive blossom or the ambergris (or both?) I get the fancy-pants bath product analogy, almost like something attached to a very expensive shaving cream for people who shave their faces. Is that even a thing? (Fancy shaving cream, not face-shaving. I am familiar with people who do the latter.) I think I like it, but it fades too quickly to make a strong impression. It does make me want to try more olive blossom blends though.

[Minh Scent]

Starts right off with pretty realistic osmanthus (olive flowers) and then the ambergris steps up beautifully.  I get what people mean when they say this has a spa vibe, but to me it is more meditative. (Similar vibe as Meditation Buddies, but not same notes). There is a bit of sweetness from the fig, but it is very light to my nose.  I love a powdery orris and this is not that, but the whole composition is so pretty, I can't complain.  Final dry down is frank accented lightly with the other notes.  This is a lovely, peaceful scent.

[Shattershatter]

I was introduced to BPAL in 2015, but didn’t know anything about independent perfume back then. I only bought imps for a few years. My first full bottle was a GC. I had no idea backups were a thing, but the moment I smelled this, I immediately ordered another.

 

 Olive blossom is one of my favorite notes, Defututa being the first time I smelled it. It’s sweet, dry, and ethereal. Orris can go sour on me, and often does, but not this time. Ambergris is a lovely skin-but-better, as always, and the frankincense in this one is the bright lemony kind. I’m not getting a clear read on the other notes, but suffice it to say, this scent is gorgeous, sweet, lightly floral, and contemplative. I’ve gone on to buy many many backups since, but 5 years ago, this scent changed the way I BPAL.