Sweet, but not sugary?

[murqmaid]

Hey guys,

BPAL newb here with limited olfactory vocab and experience.
although I love leather and musk, I've been trying to expand and find a sweet scent that isn't sugary or gourmand... also iso the perfect vanilla.

I recently acquired bottles of Are You Digging on My Grave and Antique Lace 2017, both of which are just too dang SWEET on me.
Tombeur, O, and Feed Me and Fill Me with Pleasure were also too sweet. I can't pin down what TYPE of sweetness this is, which happens to be the kind I'm avert to.
sugary? honey? please halp??

I also recently sampled Fae and liked it's peachy, fruity, goodness, which caught me by surprise. it's definitely not the same kind of sweet aforementioned, but how would one describe these differences in sweet?

scents that piqued interest are listed in my signature, under ISO. commentary for what you think would jive/wouldn't, are welcome.

Are You Digging On My Grave    Snuggly musk, milky puppy breath, upturned earth, and a gently-gnawed bone.
Feed Me and Fill Me With Pleasure      Black patchouli, honey, and thick vanilla amber.
Antique Lace 2017    Nostalgia encapsulated. A soft, wistful blend of dry flowers, aged linens, and the faint breath of long-faded perfumes.
Tombeur     Deadly and seductive: vanilla-infused sandalwood, blood musk, antique patchouli, vetiver, lavender, bitter almond, amber, and a trickle of Snake Oil.

Fae   A brilliant, ethereal scent: white musk, bergamot, heliotrope, peach and oakmoss.
 

Edited September 27, 2020 by murqmaid

[artisjok]

You might be into Death Cap, it’s got an earthy sweetness to it, yet not sugary at all. 
 

 

[murqmaid]

1 hour ago, artisjok said:

You might be into Death Cap, it’s got an earthy sweetness to it, yet not sugary at all. 
 

 

ah, yes, I saw that you mentioned Death Cap in the sleepytime thread... more incentive to get my hands on it
on the list it goes!

[biggnerd]

I find almond, fig, coconut, redwood, some dirt, some sandalwood, some mahogany, some florals like rose, iris, and freesia, rosewood, some grass, pink peppercorn, some lavender, some bergamot, melon, guava, strawberry, and rosewood to all be sweet without being sugary (though sometimes guava can be) or foodie.  

[Seajewel]

I think Zorya Polunochnaya is one to try for the perfect vanilla that isn't sugary sweet. I've found my tastes have changed a lot and vanilla musk scents along the lines of Antique Lace etc. are no longer really my thing, but I was surprised by Zorya P. That said, I think the tobacco leaf is fairly prominent there and that might account for my liking of it. 

[supreme_c0rt]

I've found vanilla + patchouli blends to be spot-on for cutting out sweetness. My favorite vanilla blends nearly all have patchouli in them. Also, look for "vanilla husk" "vanilla bean" or "black vanilla" and that usually translates to less-sweet. Vanilla + leather also work really well if you can't do patchouli.

 

For general notes that are the idea of sweet but aren't actually sugar-sweet, I like musk (red particularly), oakmoss, and certain amber. 

 

GC Reccs:

Crowley: depending on the day this can threaten to get sweet, but usually stays in line. A who's-who of favorite notes

Goblin: coconut, not vanilla, but has a nice creamy earthiness that I associate with good vanilla and not too sweet. You really need to like patchouli though.

Coiled Serpent: not sweet *at all* and my favorite GC. Again, you need to like patchouli/earthy scents to dig this one

Ask the Nearest Hippie: the weed note can be scary but I really like how earthy this vanilla is! A great patch + vanilla example

 

Non GC Reccs:

Kabe Ni Mimi Ga Aru, Shoki Ni Me Ga Aru (from the last Luper update, this is my perfect vanilla so far)

 

I think we may have similar tastes, so check out my favorites if you want more reccs. 

 

Edited October 1, 2020 by supreme_c0rt

[murqmaid]

@supreme_c0rt: dear senpai.....
i have shamelessly lurked all of your reviews and recs     i find them all to be very helpful, detailed, and well written.
i noticed we have similar tastes too, esp in regard to leather and a preference for "masculine" scents.
the haute macabre i purchased from you is my precious

re ask the nearest hippie: i actually really enjoy the hemp note in this, and the bottle is becoming one i reach for often. would the patch in this be considered the "dirty" kind?

re goblin: it was spot on with the image it invoked (i immediately thought of underground lairs, fires, and loin cloths), but i found the grungey coconut too heavy for wear.
 

2 hours ago, supreme_c0rt said:

I've found vanilla + patchouli blends to be spot-on for cutting out sweetness. My favorite vanilla blends nearly all have patchouli in them. Also, look for "vanilla husk" "vanilla bean" or "black vanilla" and that usually translates to less-sweet. Vanilla + leather also work really well if you can't do patchouli.

 

For general notes that are the idea of sweet but aren't actually sugar-sweet, I like musk (red particularly), oakmoss, and certain amber.

seeing the vanilla notes spelled out like this is super helpful, thank you c0rt!
now i've gotta retest my imp of coiled serpent, and get my hands on a kabe ni mimi decant...

Edited October 1, 2020 by murqmaid

[supreme_c0rt]

I literally could not remember what I sent you with that package! Turns out I repeat myself a bit don't I ... ☺️ 

 

If you're looking to expand to other houses, Hexennacht's Witchboard and Waking the Witch are both great on the dry/dark vanilla. Ajevie carries samples (they also do BPAL decants for most major releases).

Edited October 2, 2020 by supreme_c0rt